Great video as always. I *may* have been the one who suggested the spring difference on Facebook. When I renewed my selector seals they were arranged with the reverse spring also in the middle, some suggested that it may have been better suited there, but I wasn't sure so I put it where the manual said.
Great work. I have to do the synchro spring job to my gearbox, and I spend my life chasing oil leaks ... goodness knows how long it's been missing a spring (or 2), but now having seen how you get the top of the gearbox access cover off without removing the seatbox, I may give it another go shortly, or send you a begging message for some assistance! Keep up the great content - the most useful on youtube for the lucky owners of late Series 3s
Great videos! Your commitment to work of the highest standard shines through. I’m looking at trying to improve the selector seal effectiveness but can’t get any joy with the usual parts suppliers. Can you recall who supplied the white plastic spirals and what their part number is please? Many thanks.
i had a strange series gearbox scenario, i got locked out of reverse, i opened the gearbox and found the thrust washer on the reverse shaft was stuck thus blocking the reverse idler from sliding. even prying with a tool it was stuck. The next day i tried again and its perfectly free! its now reassembled and ready for testing!
I made exactly the same assumption with my index springs. An easily remedied mistake, it threw itself out of back gear quite dramatically a couple of times. It was fairly obvious what I’d done!
Yes very easily done, I had actually got it right on the box currently fitted, much to my surprise! The rattling/ shaking gear lever happened whilst in third gear - jumping out in third can be a problem on the earlier Series 3 boxes, like I have fitted. It normally only happens after coasting downhill for a period of time in third, I concluded that it was just trying to throw out of gear rather than any serious malfunction. Sometimes it's a curse being a mechanic/ engineer - the problem unravels in the mind and becomes a full rebuild scenario quite quickly..
@@steamwally emphatically agree on the last point You remember my power loss/ bearing breaking up/ overdrive failure, vibration / intermediate gear roller bearings collapse and general drivetrain paranoia? Turned out to be a rear brake snail cam that had TIGHTENED UP! Two per brake plate and one on the offside rear had got tighter( how??) I’d had all wheels and drums off last November, adjusted all brakes did the new forest and back in a day beautifully and been driving it ever since, then a couple of months ago it just felt weird and got worse on a run. Brake binding but not enough to smell, smoke or stop you rolling. Had all drums off again a month ago and that’s when I found the problem. It’s going absolutely great again! Rolls better and further than the panda. Another landrover first, self tightening brakes ffs
Not heard of those new seals before. Learn something new everyday and thanks for the reassurance we can replace them in situ. I guess the seals are still good, getting on for a year later? Cheers Graham
Hi Graham, yes the seals are still good. Over a few hundred miles, the box will get a little wet with oil in places underneath but rarely does it actually drip. The selector seals still seem to be doing the job.
My LR series is locking in 2nd and 3rd gears. It doesn't like it when I engine break in these gears. It was fine then this!! Looking at your scenario it seems I'll have to do the same. God help because in Kenya it's very difficult to find mechanics that know what their doing!!
Hello, my name is Nikita, I am from St. Petersburg, I own such a car with such a gearbox, there is a problem when driving in reverse, the reverse gear takes off, I don't know how to solve it??? Couplings and synchronizers have been changed
@@steamwally Yes, that's true. They personally helped me a lot, getting hold of rare parts. E.g. the backing plate, when I upgraded the front brakes from standard Series 3 109 to the wider 3" type (V8, 1-ton). brakes.
Hi great video as usual - could you advise on the source of the plastic mod parts. Leaking from the selector rods have been the bain of my ownership (that and gearbox breathing). Thanks
Thanks very much. The seal components came from P.A Blanchards and you will need the following: -1x 515573 O ring -2x FRC6468 O ring -3x FRC6938 Nylon washer
Ha ha! Just found your reply through PA Blanchards. I’ll try them
Great video as always. I *may* have been the one who suggested the spring difference on Facebook. When I renewed my selector seals they were arranged with the reverse spring also in the middle, some suggested that it may have been better suited there, but I wasn't sure so I put it where the manual said.
Yes I think you're right, thank you. I filmed this "episode" some months ago but it's taken until now to get it edited!
Great work. I have to do the synchro spring job to my gearbox, and I spend my life chasing oil leaks ... goodness knows how long it's been missing a spring (or 2), but now having seen how you get the top of the gearbox access cover off without removing the seatbox, I may give it another go shortly, or send you a begging message for some assistance! Keep up the great content - the most useful on youtube for the lucky owners of late Series 3s
Great videos! Your commitment to work of the highest standard shines through. I’m looking at trying to improve the selector seal effectiveness but can’t get any joy with the usual parts suppliers. Can you recall who supplied the white plastic spirals and what their part number is please? Many thanks.
i had a strange series gearbox scenario, i got locked out of reverse, i opened the gearbox and found the thrust washer on the reverse shaft was stuck thus blocking the reverse idler from sliding. even prying with a tool it was stuck.
The next day i tried again and its perfectly free! its now reassembled and ready for testing!
That's a new one, never heard of that before!
I made exactly the same assumption with my index springs. An easily remedied mistake, it threw itself out of back gear quite dramatically a couple of times. It was fairly obvious what I’d done!
Yes very easily done, I had actually got it right on the box currently fitted, much to my surprise! The rattling/ shaking gear lever happened whilst in third gear - jumping out in third can be a problem on the earlier Series 3 boxes, like I have fitted. It normally only happens after coasting downhill for a period of time in third, I concluded that it was just trying to throw out of gear rather than any serious malfunction. Sometimes it's a curse being a mechanic/ engineer - the problem unravels in the mind and becomes a full rebuild scenario quite quickly..
@@steamwally emphatically agree on the last point You remember my power loss/ bearing breaking up/ overdrive failure, vibration / intermediate gear roller bearings collapse and general drivetrain paranoia?
Turned out to be a rear brake snail cam that had TIGHTENED UP! Two per brake plate and one on the offside rear had got tighter( how??) I’d had all wheels and drums off last November, adjusted all brakes did the new forest and back in a day beautifully and been driving it ever since, then a couple of months ago it just felt weird and got worse on a run. Brake binding but not enough to smell, smoke or stop you rolling. Had all drums off again a month ago and that’s when I found the problem. It’s going absolutely great again! Rolls better and further than the panda. Another landrover first, self tightening brakes ffs
Not heard of those new seals before. Learn something new everyday and thanks for the reassurance we can replace them in situ. I guess the seals are still good, getting on for a year later?
Cheers
Graham
Hi Graham, yes the seals are still good. Over a few hundred miles, the box will get a little wet with oil in places underneath but rarely does it actually drip. The selector seals still seem to be doing the job.
My LR series is locking in 2nd and 3rd gears. It doesn't like it when I engine break in these gears. It was fine then this!! Looking at your scenario it seems I'll have to do the same. God help because in Kenya it's very difficult to find mechanics that know what their doing!!
Where did you get the oil-stick from,pls?
23:29 whats the part number for that gasket on the filler cap?
Thanks
I've no idea, I make seals like that from sheet material.
Could the other sync unit have lost a spring? Hence the nasty moment felt through the lever?
Great vid. Where can I get one of those gearbox dip stick and top filler gadgets from. Keep up the good work.
Dave
Thanks Dave, you can obtain those parts from Global Roamer in Canada or Syncro Gearboxes parts shop in the UK.
I have just ordered one - It will be great to not have to lie on the floor to check the b/box oil! I reckon I can top up down the dip stick tube too.
Just found that mod on my 1984 'box
Hello, my name is Nikita, I am from St. Petersburg, I own such a car with such a gearbox, there is a problem when driving in reverse, the reverse gear takes off, I don't know how to solve it??? Couplings and synchronizers have been changed
Hi, great vid. Wouldn't you mind letting us know the part-no. , brand and source of/for the sealing mod, please. Regards Heinz
Thanks, the parts were bought from P.A Blanchard and the part numbers are as follows:
-1x 515573 O ring
-2x FRC6468 O ring
-3x FRC6938 Nylon washer
@@steamwally Thanks a lot for the quick response. Bought a lot parts from Blanchards in former times.
@@HeinerStorch No problem. Blanchard's are actually packing up in the next couple of years - a huge loss to the Land Rover community.
@@steamwally Yes, that's true. They personally helped me a lot, getting hold of rare parts. E.g. the backing plate, when I upgraded the front brakes from standard Series 3 109 to the wider 3" type (V8, 1-ton). brakes.
Hi great video as usual - could you advise on the source of the plastic mod parts. Leaking from the selector rods have been the bain of my ownership (that and gearbox breathing). Thanks
Thanks very much. The seal components came from P.A Blanchards and you will need the following:
-1x 515573 O ring
-2x FRC6468 O ring
-3x FRC6938 Nylon washer
@@steamwally As always, many thanks. Such useful and methodical vids - appreciate it.