✓ ATQ Short Throw Shifter Install on Genesis Coupe
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- Опубликовано: 16 окт 2024
- This video covers the installation of a short throw shifter as well as compares the differences from ATQ, Torque Solutions, and the factory shifters with a few silly moments included.
This is an example of the shift knob rattle I was getting before
• ✓ 3.8T First Impressio...
Hope you enjoy as well as like, comment, and subscribe!!!
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Finally, a real video, complete with real life objects falling on your face. Too many videos hide these valuable little nuggets of information. Very informative.
Im glad i saw this before i bought a Torque Solutions Shifter haha
haha definitely, that death rattle was brutal. Like what I mentioned on your Turbo Kit consideration video, don't be afraid to hit me up if you have any questions about aftermarket parts cause if I don't have it, then I know personally know someone who does ;-)
Initial DIY mods That could come in handy. Add me on facebook if you have one (Ryan Royce)
It's not letting me add you, not sure if it's your page or your account. I sent you a message. Add me if you can
thanks for this video I am new to the GC world and want to do some mods to my own and this helped out a lot! you gained a new SUB, and happy belated bday
Haha awesome, well welcome to the gen community. So which gen did you get and how are you liking it so far?
Thanks for the sub and birthday part too btw
+Initial DIY mods thanks for the warm welcome haha. I went with a 2015 3.8 r-spec (got it new) and I have had it for a little over a year now so I can honestly say i made a great choice. aside from many KDM haters the car really came through with everything I expected. although the moding portion is a bit difficult compared to my recent cars. I just wish my small town (San Angelo , TX) was performance friendly haha. that's why I turn to youtube.
Yeah anytime man, I can't understand the troll types of people who think they're hilarious -_-
I googled San Angelo and that's not too far from from some bigger cities at least (2 hours ish looks like lol). There's a tuning event coming to Austin in August. I know plenty of people are going to get custom dyno tunes and several are going to just hang out. Should be a lot of cool gens there including 4 or 5 3.8Ts as well as some nice 2.0s and Veloster Turbos too ;-)
So by not mod friendly, you mean the police are annoyingly persistent to mods or just a lot of factory cars and family cars around?
+Initial DIY mods ||sweet I had no idea! I know there is a haltech in Austin but haven't looked into it much. and by not "performance friendly" I mean there aren't any places to get parts installed, I live in a apartment w/o garage :/ and I figure most of the parts I want will have to be ordered anyways regardless where I go. so might as well order my own parts haha. but yeah I may plan on going there in august. I do have the 100k mile Warranty so I'm still trying to find mods and also trying to store my stock parts to keep around just in case haha. I just started my channel so I'm going to try and do these mods myself. I do have experience with other cars and let's be honest all you need is general knowledge to do the simple mods haha. so that's what I plan on doing first.
Well Haltec ECUs won't work for the GDi sadly, it only works for the pre 2013. Look up the BTRcc tuning event on their webpage for the info, I'll be heading there from Houston.
Yeah the warranty is nice but it's really hard to have fun with a warranty LOL. But yeah the turbo basically removes all hope of a claim happening. Some wait till the warranty is almost up before doing the bigger mods, I waited til about 20k miles haha
Nice going with the channel, it took me forever to finally get serious and make videos. I'll be looking out for your channel and hope to see you at the BTR meet
Happy Late Birthday Bro I really like you're videos. Keep on keeping on!! Great Job
+Stan M Thanks a bunch, got a big project coming up in the next two episodes but they won't be much of a DIY but hopefully it has some good info or is just cool to see ;-)
This video helped me out so much. Knew exactly what to expect before getting underneath the car. I recommend removing that stock tranny mount and replacing it with Megan racings version. Great video thanks man
Thanks I'm happy to see it helped out. And yes the Megan Racing transmission mount is fantastic I've had mine for nearly 4 years and it was a perfect, easy, and cheap bolt on mod you can feel ;-)
Thanks for writing in and I hope you find some of my other videos helpful too
Happy modding
For sure felt the same thing on my end. Thanks again bro. You've got a subscriber for life🤙
woooooo glad to hear it ;-D
I noticed you had removed the heat shield above your test pipes where the old secondaries used to be. Have you had any issues with heat in the cabin?
Cole Hoover actually no there's no issues from that, but only if you remove the cats. The cats capture and hold A LOT of heat so once you install the test pipes, you don't really need it anymore ;-)
Hmm...I didn't think about the heat retained in the cats after driving. I removed mine this past weekend due to the previous owner bending it beyond repair and it was hitting my cnt exhaust. I'll keep an eye on the heat to make sure I'm not melting my floor....
I just ordered the sub frame collar kit, short shifter, shift knob, and front & rear bushings. I'm excited, thanx for the video, I'm definately gonna need it, too bad it'll b a pain in the ass but I'm sure it was worth it considering how shitty the stock shifter is
yeah it's not so bad for those running the stock driveshaft but it is still a bit cumbersome. If you bought ATQ, then you won't have any issues. With those mods you listed, you are going to notice a much more responsive car for sure.
Good luck
i just installed the torque solution shifter on my 2014 gen coupe 2.0 rspec and it makes this weird noise(sounds like when someone is vaping) when you shift and it bothers me alot. have you had this problem?
LOL I don't know what someone vaping sounds like
But the only issue I ran into was the extreme rattling which you can hear in the turbo 3.8 first impressions and races video.
+Initial DIY mods did you find a fix to atleast make the rattling quieter?
+Initial DIY mods and hows the atq? any rattles or vibrations?
I actually didn't find a way to fix it. An idea that I never tried would be to coat the bolt that holds the shifter to the linkage with something. Possible wrap it in duct tape or polyurethane. Maybe some window weld from home depot to absorb those rattles and minimize the metal to metal contact.
The ATQ has zero vibrations or rattles and it feels crisper than the torque solutions one did. Also the flex allows it to go into gear easier. It's just all around better I think which is why I switched. That rattling drove me crazy haha
Man I have the uniq performance shifter and I know exactly the noise you're talking about lol
i see that you have the aluminum driveshaft installed. How do you like it? pros/cons, etc. Let me know thanks!
Yeahhhh if you want mine I'll sell it for half price LOL
It's ok. I definitely wouldn't go with DriveShaft Shop at least.
So with the aluminum I'll just list the pros and cons as well as thoughts on DS Shop
Pros:
-More instant torque to the ground (no rubber to absorb and it's one piece instead of two)
Cons:
-Significant increase in road noise
-More wear on parts
-Much more difficult to drive smoothly (on a manual at least, not sure on an auto). My stage 3+ clutch doesn't help but now there is no forgiveness with starting in first gear.
-Fitment is poor. It rubs the heat shield and rubs on the parking brake cable sheath a bit. The 4 inch diameter is just too big. I'd honestly just get the 3 inch carbon fiber one if you can just for fitment and better flex characteristics.
-Customer service was terrible. They sent me the wrong hub adapter and then refused to send a new one until I shipped it back and they received it in hand, then I am guessing they decided to only then start making a new one. I shipped it back asap and the correct part showed up like 2 months later
-The adapters are impossible to torque to their specifications because they don't give you space to fit a wrench to actually torque it and they use allen keys which I hate lol
Also, they advertise the driveshaft as lighter than stock but they don't include their heavy adapters. The complete replacement shaft is actually heavier than stock. They could've easily made it lighter.
Hope that helps. Let me know if you have any other questions. Sorry for the long response too, I tend to ramble haha
well definitely not getting the driveshaft lol
damn i wanted one too. my uncle got a aluminum ds on his 96 z28 and i installed it. i forgot if it was 3 or 4 but the genesis is more shit packed.
Props for sticking to recording the install, I probably would have just been like FU#K it and quit with the camera
Haha I feel that way mostly in tight spaces 😂
Great DIY install vid. I was going to get ATQ but took an offer I couldnt refuse on the Torque solution kit with the bushings. Was it really any different between the ATQ and Torque solution one?
Personally, yes. The ATQ short throw shifter is internally dampened where the torque solutions is not. This is the main difference in terms of daily driving. For racing, the damping and softer Poly mounts allow the ATQ shifter to be gentler on the synchros when you shift super aggressively.
If you watch my 3.8 turbo kit first races and impressions video, you can hear how the shifter rattle sounds when driving at the race track. The shift knob I had was 1 pound too and it still rattled.
As for the great deal, I totally get it. I'll actually be selling my torque solutions shifter for pretty cheap too
how long did it take you to receive your atq short shifter?? I've ordered mine almost a month ago now and haven't received... I received the bushings first quickly after 3 days
Well he does the shifters in batches so I have heard of people waiting 6 months (on the long side). It took me about 2 months to get it but it was well worth the wait and it's so much better than any competitors. I should've bought this one first instead of going cheaper
+Initial DIY mods yea I always go on the gencpupe forums and read before buying any stuff for my car
yeah it's good to read the reviews on there. It's especially good for those more hidden parts that not many people upgrade
Hey bro I’ve been watching your videos for the last couple months I just bought a 2013 Genesis 3.8 Track when I’m driving if I hold the clutch in and coast my RPMs will drop to about 800 then slowly increase to 2000 then it will drop to a 1000 and slowly increase to 2000 again I don’t know what to do about it I took it back to the dealership to have them fix it they said they couldn’t duplicate it. Is that part of the second gear lock out also. For some reason it doesn’t happen every time but if I get on it then use the clutch to coast it will start to do it. I’m going to buy the mount and gear oil to help the transmission. I personally think maybe my throwout bearing isn’t fully disengaging so should I buy a new clutch and throw out bearing and do a new clutch same time or do you think the mount and fluid will take care of it. Your help would be much appreciated thank you
I hope you check this I know this video is kinda old but I’ve got an issue with my car and I’ve taken it back to the dealership to have them look at it and they said they couldn’t duplicate it so I’m on a mission to fix it on my own and hopefully you have a solution for me. I just bought a 2013 Genesis 3.8 Track when I’m driving if I hold the clutch in and coast my RPMs will drop to about 800 then slowly increase to 2000 then it will drop to a 1000 and slowly increase to 2000 again and again. Also for some reason it doesn’t happen every time but if I get on it then use the clutch to coast it will start to do it. I have a Megan racing transmission mount on the way (Birthday present)Tuesday is my birthday and the mount is in the mail already and I will purchase the transmission fluid that Ryan talks about in his random rides. He also told me he thinks maybe bad gas or that my throttle body is dirty. Well I bought throttle body cleaner and removed the tubes and sprayed in there and wiped it out but I didn’t completely remove it because I seen a video that when a guy did that and the service engine light came on so I tried to avoid that any suggestions. I was thinking about buying a new throttle body but if it’s not going to fix it then I wasted a bunch of money so I would prefer not to go that route. Your help would be much appreciated I’m running out of ideas thank you
Hey Ted King thanks for writing in and happy birthday too. Sounds like there are a few different possibilities. It not going to be related to 2nd gear lockout but the mount is a great mod either way so enjoy. The first thing I would recommend is cleaning the throttle body. Take it off and clean it with a paper towel with a little bit of carb/brake cleaner. I don't recommend just spraying it directly on the TB as it is an electronic part and you can certainly cause damage. Spray a little on the paper towel and then use that to wipe it. Also check that the throttle body plate rotates freely, It shouldn't jam up. I had an issue similar to you at one point and it was caused by the TB sticking open and then closing rapidly then opening and sticking again. It should spring back closed pretty quickly. If you have a friend or local group, it may be worth exchanging TB with someone else and seeing if they have issues or if your issue goes away. In that case it would probably be something wrong with the electric motor that controls the TB plate and the whole TB would need to be replaced. These would be the TB related solutions which seems most likely. I don't think it would be related to your throw out bearing because the TOB in our cars are built into the slave cylinder which would cause your clutch system to not work at all. Also, if you clutch in while slowing down and your RPMs go up, you would have to be downshifting and you would feel the whole car slow down like you were engine braking. It would be pretty noticeable, not just a random RPM climb.
I hope that helps and write back to let me know if you get it fixed with what I listed above. If the TB isn't the issue, then it is likely an ECU issue or something more complicated that would need a closer look. Next time it happens, film it and bring it to the dealer so they can at least see it even if it's not first hand. Typically if the TB is sticking you will get some sort of Check Engine Light as well (CEL) and it will put you into limp mode but that depends on how aggressive it is sticking.
Let me know how things go and good luck with that transmission mount upgrade. Definitely use jackstands and be safe ;-)
Happy birthday and as always, happy modding
-Ryan @ InitialDIYmods
Thank you I sure will let you know Monday I will pull it off I was trying to avoid taking it off because I watched a video where some old man said that it could trigger the check engine light but I need to get it fixed it makes me angry because it’s still new to me. Love the videos though it’s a lot of help to me I’m use to Honda’s and the whole Hyundai thing is new to me so it’s a struggle it’s like night and day. If it happens again after I take it off and clean it I will record it so you can see too and I will post it. Thanks for the birthday wishes. Also I was thinking about buying the ATQ shifter but that won’t be for a few more weeks. Do you think it’s worth doing because it’s pricy but I want my car to run right and all these little things are annoying if it’s needed to fix the problems then I’m going to do it thanks again for the fast response
Oh also if I’m rolling and it’s started that fluctuating rev it won’t stop till I come to a complete stop once I’m completely stopped the RPM’s will drop after about a 2 to 5 second pause then it will drop to the average 500/600 RPM don’t know if that helps with a diagnosis of the problem
Where you able to safely re-secure the lower linkage boot again? Ive heard some people having problems getting the boots back on and keeping them on.
Cameron D the boot is definitely annoying to get back on but not impossible. You can see it was on in the beginning of this video because I put it back on after I installed my first short shifter (which rattled like crazy). you have to be patient with it and decent finger strength helps lol
Cameron D I assume you're talking about the rubber boot on the bottom of the shifter where it connect to the shifter linkage rod that goes to the trans
going to install mine in a few days, so dropping the drive shaft isn't necessary for the stock drive shaft correct? it's only for an aftermarket driveshaft?
Evin Kilicarslan That is correct but I will say it is easier for clearance to drop the front of the stock drive shaft. If you have bigger than average hands, you may need to drop the front drive shaft which is only 3 bolts/nuts. Just verify if they're reverse threaded or not cause I can't remember off the top of my head.
Good luck and I hope it goes smoothly for you 😉
Yeah thanks for posting the videos you do I was going to do something similar with my gauge pod with aftermarket gauges and your video really helped me out thanks!
Evin Kilicarslan haha no problem. I'm just happy to see people getting help from them.
Great video
Thanks a bunch ;-)
Torque used for tightening the bolts on the the driveshaft?
How do you like the ATQ? now that you've had it on for a while.
Honestly I love it. Way better than stock. The only downside is that if you are sleepy and super tired/feeling weak, you may miss the super easy long throw from the factory shifter haha.
The ATQ is very crispy and smooth shifting. Obviously being short means less leverage so it's firmer and you have to use a little more force than stock to push the springs but even my girl can shift this car. Although she can't push the clutch pedal, the shifter isn't an issue LOL
Hey have you change the shifter bushing, the front and rear from ATQ?
Kevin Potvin hey I changed the 2 front bushings on the transmission but not the rear. it did make a big difference though
I've heard many negative things about ATQ short shifters in the recent weeks. Would you still recommend this short shifter?
Honestly I haven't heard a single bad thing about their shifters themselves and have never seen anything wrong with mine. I have heard bad things about the company with delays due to back order and service (snippy responses and what not) but never about the products.
What did you hear specifically about the shifter?
Shitty owner but good quality shifter and bushings from what I keep reading and getting messaged
Hi Initial DIY mods, nice video, i got one question, maybe you can help me i got a genesis coupe 3.8 A/T, 2012, with 306hp, what would u recommend me to do? i was thinking about turbokits. thanks
Nice car ;-)
So is it stock then or are you saying you dynoed at 306? Faculty hp was 304 ish on that year so you're either stock or have some nice mods.
Turbo kits is a great option and I have videos of the install process so you can decide if you want to get a shop for the install or go diy. The auto is a little different but probably 90-95% the same. A few extra steps for Transmission cooler lines, tighter clearances in certain areas, etc
If your car is currently stock, then you've got about 50 whp worth of gains you can do first that will be great support for the turbo kit. Things like exhaust, pulleys, flow balanced intake and wider rims to fit better tires would be good because you will need more than the factory 245s to hold grip haha
Write back with some more info on your car, mods, and experience so I can give a more honed recommendation.
Happy modding
+Initial DIY mods
well i boight it brand new, and it says that came with 306hp standar, know im trying todo modified it to go faster, would u say its better the turb kit than the supercharger? and what other things can i do to improve the horse powers? thank for answering so fast! :D
+sChEChOs Well it depends what you want to do with the car. Since you have an auto, I have heard of a kit coming out for it but I think that might have been for the 2013+ and not your generation so it wouldn't be plug and play/ bolt on. You could do a custom kit but that's a lot of fab work and can be quite difficult to get it set up properly.
The turbo kit is definitely a good way to go since the kit has been out for years and has a decent amount of support and fellow owners/community group. I feel that since it is nearly a straight bolt on kit, it's probably the best mod you can get for the money. People spend so much going full bolt ons and cosmetic make overs for the car and then complain it's slow, makes no sense to me lol
The turbo kit is a lot more power. The car stock has around 305 ish horsepower at the engine's crankshaft. Approximating for drivetrain loss, you probably have about 230-250 hp at the wheels. Now the turbo kit will put you at around 380-400 horsepower at the wheels which is a HUGE jump. No other bolt on (aside from nitrous but that's a whole nother story) can get you this power per $.
Aside from the turbo kit, you can increase power by getting an aftermarket exhaust, lightweight pulleys, test pipes, and a few other goodies. There is a great thread on gencoupe.com showing all the mods with before and after dynos, a great resource for info.
Besides power, there are a lot of mods that help the car feel better. Thinks like sway bar upgrades, rigid subframe collars, coilovers, better rims and tires with better grip. I always recommend going to an autocross event near you to get some time pushing the car as is, and then improve it along the way. It's really hard to legally and safely push this car anywhere near it's limit on the road
Keep me posted and feel free to write back whenever. I try to answer as fast as I can when I can ;-)
Now I'm off to finish working on my car bwahahahaha
Happy modding
+Initial DIY mods, hi and thanks again for answering my questions that fast, well i got confused the other day, im from Peru anda my car have 300hp, still i think its very fast, i wanted to know now about the gearshift that it has, its an automatic/ secuencial, is it better to change to a manual box to improve the horsepower? thanks
+sChEChOs yes not a problem ;-)
In my opinion, the power you'd gain switching from an auto to a manual would probably be 20-30 hp. Now the issue is that a swap is very expensive and time consuming and sometimes the car doesn't run properly afterwards. You would feel the difference but it's not worth the $4000 USD to try and gain that little bit of power when there are so many other options that will give you a better increase for the money.
What some people do is trade in/sell the car and then buy the manual version. If you did this and got the 2013 or newer in manual you'd feel about 65 hp difference since you're switching to manual but the newer engines also have almost 50 more hp. That would be much better cost wise and guarantee that the car runs best with no complications from the swap. Hope that made sense lol
Glad to see my videos made it all the way to Peru, it's such a lovely place and one day I'll have to go back :-D
These are short shifters btw guys not real "short throw shifters". There's only 2 atm the are Tru short throw shifters in the market
But good vid man!
Can I access the stock shifter's weight from the interior of the car? I've got a pretty loud buzz under acceleration and I suspect it is the weight
Underscorer should be able to depending on how short your screw driver is. hopefully that's your issue. maybe put some tape to make it a tighter fit or tighten the screws
Well, fortunately the screws were all tight, but unfortunately that means im still at square one as far as finding this annoyingly loud buzz under acceleration
Underscorer did you try the shift knob? if you remove that, does it still rattle?
Initial DIY mods I can't remove it because I have the 2016 with the prong system (not threaded) . it's glued on from the factory and I don't want to have to re-glue it. there is no play between the knob and the shifter shaft as far as I can tell (I have the shift boot lifted up so I can feel
Underscorer hmm well I used to have a rattle from my shift knob that cane from the weight inside the knob.
accelerate and see if you can feel what's rattling. usually if you touch that spot while driving, it should stop rattling.
hopefully it's not your shift knob though. because removing it is a pain
Awesome video! Ordering this shifter for my Genesis. What year is yours?
Thanks and that's great to hear. Also, mine is a 2013 ;-)
The shifter boot cover fit just fine with no issue?
YomstaNation yup, perfect fit with no issues at all ;-)
Thank you for that info!
YomstaNation anytime ;-)
hey I'm trying to get the shifter out from underneath the car how do you get the bolt out from the fork piece on the bottom of the car? it appears that the bolt has a little round metal cap at the end holding it in place how do I get that off? also is there a torque measurement for the nuts of the driveshaft? I found 65-79.
Evin Kilicarslan so that cap is on the stock shifter. You need to push it off with a screwdriver or similar. I spun it so I could pop it off upwards.
For the torque specs, 70 lb ft sounds about right. You definitely want them tight but anything over 65 definitely works ;-)
write back if you need more help tonight, I just got back from work and doing a bit more work from home now.
I couldn't for the life of me break the driveshaft bolts loose. I tried to do it with the driveshaft in place but it was impossible to reach the bolt holding the fork and one of the bolts that holds the circular metal piece under the shift rod. (The piece that prevents the shifter from falling out of your car)
Evin Kilicarslan you have to use a small 10 mm wrench or Ratchet with the perfect length. But it's definitely harder with the drive shaft in the way. Did you check the way the threads go on the bolts? If it's reverse threaded, it'll be righty loosey instead of lefty loosey
I tried both and used a PVC pipe for extra leverage
Evin Kilicarslan pvc probably won't be strong enough. I used a steel pipe. to get to the back bolt if the drive shaft happens to spin into an awkward spot. jack up the rear, put the car on neutral and with the engine Brake off, just spin the shaft (or wheels) to get to the other side
Does your clutch rattle more with a stage 2up clutch?just installed mine and damn does she rattle alot
What brand do you have? Some chatter more than others. I only notice mine with the window down in a drive through with the AC on, but I have a SPEC stage 3+ so a different brand would have different characteristics. My stage 2 spec didn't chatter at all though. I can hear them engaging (a soft sandpaper ish sound) with the window down at a drive through, but nowhere else.
@@InitialDIYmods i have a competition clutch stage 2 and it doesent chatter when i first start it but does after its drivin.scale 1 to 10 its like a 6 7 .makes me want to turn the car off rather then let it run
@@InitialDIYmods less then 100 miles on it atm
@@InitialDIYmods not to mention 1 and second sounds like sand paper on metal
Oh you're still breaking in the clutch technically. It should improve, but if it's been 100 miles of normal driving, it might only improve another 10-20% or so by the time you get to the 500-1000 mile mark.
Ahahaha it would not be a DIY without some good old swearing.
😂 so true
Fuck me man this shit is so difficult, you literally look like a genius to me right now because this whole thing is impossible. I've started it twice when I was confident and just stopped before even dropping the shifter😑 it's too tight and I only have small jack stands
Have you considered ramps? May give you some more room to work. With the drive shaft in, it's basically impossible to see anything well. Every angle allows one eyeball at a time to fully see what's happening with your hand reaching in. Worse case dropping the front section of the driveshaft is only a few bolts which will give you lots of room. They are pretty high torque though so hard pull on the e brake and put blocks under the rear wheels. And 3 of the driveshaft bolts are reverse threaded. Can't remember if it's the front or rear though
Also I removed the heat shielding preeminently
Hope that helps you out for the next go. It's a pain but the improved shifting is well worth it.
Best of luck and happy modding
Ryan @InitialDIYmods
The stock driveshaft is indeed in the dam way.
Odd, I was able to get around the stock one. Now it was a pain because I couldn't see much, especially with my hands in the way, but my hands snaked around and got the work done. Kinda like working blindfolded. Dropping the drive shaft with eight bolts is worth it for less frustration if you can get the 6 shaft bolts off. I didn't have an impact or bracket bar at the time that would work without a lift so I left it in
@@InitialDIYmods I ended up pulling it out the top instead. I couldn't get the top of the original shifter through the hole and around the drive shaft. I had everything disconnected and even loosened the shifter mounting bracket underneath the boot. It would not drop down.
For a 2011 3.8 at least, you have to drop the drive shaft, found that out the hard way
Odd cause they're the same. But for me it was one of those puzzles where everything needs to be in the perfect spot for it to work. Maybe after I reinstalled the engine and transmission from the all the builds and clutch work, it ended up in a spot that let it slide out without dropping it.