Staggering that any mechanic worth his salt couldn't see those problems. For such repairs of plastic I have used two methods: (i) a hot glue gun and (ii) a soldering iron. Both have their advantages, but a soldering iron I find effective particularly if you can source some other plastic to add and bulk-up the joint. Great video as always.
i keep a large inner tube puncture repair kit for repairing holes in air intake pipes and boost pipes, normally used as a temporary measure but some repairs have lasted the life of the car. just get the oil off with brake cleaner before applying. easy to use, cheap and made to stick to rubber/plastics
I'm afraid mechanics ( or as they like to be called 'technicians' LOL rely on technology too much. Your practicle approach using common sense and your ears and eyes is the way I was taught to be a mechanic. Great fix and hopefully the customer cancelled the new engine - 🤔😎
Had exactly the same pipe gone on a Ford Kuga Mk.1. Various garages couldn't find the problem, but saw a possible problem solver on a Ford forum. I couldn't see a problem with the pipe, but when I felt round the back of it, I could feel a three inch long split in it. I took it to my usual garage and the guy said it was a big job and would be quite expensive. That was him finished. Got the part from a Ford main dealer the same day for about £35 and fitted it myself in about an hour. No more smoking and ran like a dream.
I had a problem like this on a Freelander TD4. I used a section of racerboy turbo pipe to tide it over. Don't know if you can get it locally, but you could get a 90degree and just cut the end off that pipe ... could be quicker and or cheaper
They can be smoky old girls especially if not driven enough. Mine an smax just scraped the MOT on opacity but she's getting on. I assume probably a small leak somewhere but I can't hear or see anything obvious. They are generally good cars. For bike old cars they go alright.
Hi thank you for the video. Had same issue with ours it had split and chucking out black smoke replaced pipe with a better style and it fixed the issue
I've had as far as I know the same engine on a Citroen C5. At the garage they fitted a new turbo and they left a hose barely connected. I revisited them as I had issues with black smoke and the engine didn't really pull. They said I was driving under revved, had the DPF ruined also. I sold the car and the guy took it tonhis mechanic which notticed the problem
I had that on my 07 Galaxy and the original had a sensor in it. I looked high and low to get one with a sensor, until an engineer told me that Ford has discontinued the use of the sensor. I fitted the new hose without the sensor and rang Ford. They wanted £220 to switch the sensor off.
Not saying this is the case this time, but often customers tell me they have been to other garages/mechanics. When I enquire where 9/10 they went to a tyre and exhaust type service center. These places have very few properly time served mechanics or techs as they like to refer to there staff & their inexperience is glaringly obvious to real establishments. They feed the customer with all sorts of nonsense!
hi,i have black smoke and loss of power after the car heats up on a ford focus mk2.5,black smoke only on hard acceleration, pipes are ok,only a steering angle sensor fault code,any iddea?
You can start the engine up and there's no knocking no nothing I've checked the oil and checked the water I ever got a clue what's the matter with the way it keeps white keeps cutting out and sometimes it will literally go on high ribs and then you have to switch the car off bro please can help
@@SabretoothBarnacleWho said anything about qualified mechanic .... I've worked in a few Garages and most only had people that said they knew what they were doing without any qualifications. I've since left the trade as I just couldn't associate myself with these cowboys .
I have an Astra 17.cdti 2011 plate, I have been having trouble ever since i purchased the car, It starts every time it runs ok when it is cold but as soon as it warms up and i'm stopped in the traffic it starts to idle rough jumping between 850rpm and 500rpm. I also notice if i put my foot down i also get a big puff of black smoke and sometimes a smell of diesel inside the car. I was told it was the SCV suction control valve, so brought a new one changed it and still the same, then i was told it was the glowplugs, Brought glowplugs changed them and still the same, then was told it was the mass air flow sensor, brought a new one changed it still the same. another said it was injectors and another said it was an air leak? Do you know if the Astra J 1.7cdti 2011 has the same pipe as the broken one in the video? and if that may also be a possible cause? Thanks in advance.
Have you checked and cleaned the EGR valve and the below pipe.. these engines do get coked up and i have to clean my EGR & filters every 6 months on my zafira 1.7cdti, otherwise it drinks diesel like a fish…and runs like crap.. by the way no codes and short city journeys. Need to consider changibg for a petrol
@@neildean7515 I did clean the EGR but not the pipe below, I forgot to mention i do get a engine management light that comes on sometimes which throws a P0301 'misfire cylinder 1, This only happens when the idle drops below a certain rpm. sometimes the engine light will then go off by itself. I will take another look at the EGR and the below pipe,. Thank you for your reply much appreciated
@@tomfinch4130 Yes I had the relearn thing done by a garage, I Found the problem eventually. Where the EGR is bolted onto the inlet manifold there is a type of covering that can be taken off and cleaned, When I went to inspect the EGR I found lots of oil around that covering which told me it was leaking. Until the bits arrive to fix the issue I Tightened up the covering and the rough idle diminished a lot. Hopefully the lock tight and gasket come this week so I can do a proper job. I think the covering which I speaking of is What the guy above called the EGR under pipe.
Staggered no garage could spot that problem with their eyes in under 10seconds. They shouldnt be touching any car if that is there level of inability. You can hear the boost leak at idle, off load, before even opening the bonnet !
Ford x max Twice now it's literally just cut out then it'll start to smoke and then you can if you restart it try to restart it won't start but he'll leave it a few seconds it will start but start smoking white
If it doesn’t have a fault code it doesn’t have a problem. The life of a modern mechanic..
Great to see you’ve found the problem 👌🏻
I really like these non-DPF related videos.
These mechanics must have so little interest in their occupation that they can’t even be bothered to look………
Staggering that any mechanic worth his salt couldn't see those problems. For such repairs of plastic I have used two methods: (i) a hot glue gun and (ii) a soldering iron. Both have their advantages, but a soldering iron I find effective particularly if you can source some other plastic to add and bulk-up the joint. Great video as always.
The pressure on that charge pipe will cause pretty much any repair to fail in short time. It needs replacing.
I use Cable ties as welding rods 👍
I’ve got a 2001 Vito that’s kicking out black smoke. I will try a few of these tips. Thanks
i keep a large inner tube puncture repair kit for repairing holes in air intake pipes and boost pipes, normally used as a temporary measure but some repairs have lasted the life of the car. just get the oil off with brake cleaner before applying.
easy to use, cheap and made to stick to rubber/plastics
Works well on rack gaiters too👍
I'm afraid mechanics ( or as they like to be called 'technicians' LOL rely on technology too much. Your practicle approach using common sense and your ears and eyes is the way I was taught to be a mechanic.
Great fix and hopefully the customer cancelled the new engine - 🤔😎
Had exactly the same pipe gone on a Ford Kuga Mk.1. Various garages couldn't find the problem, but saw a possible problem solver on a Ford forum. I couldn't see a problem with the pipe, but when I felt round the back of it, I could feel a three inch long split in it. I took it to my usual garage and the guy said it was a big job and would be quite expensive. That was him finished. Got the part from a Ford main dealer the same day for about £35 and fitted it myself in about an hour. No more smoking and ran like a dream.
How did you get to the screw on the bottom of the intercooler pipe behind the bumper do u have to remove the headlight to get access
@@marklong6701 You've got it Mark. 👍
I had a problem like this on a Freelander TD4. I used a section of racerboy turbo pipe to tide it over. Don't know if you can get it locally, but you could get a 90degree and just cut the end off that pipe ... could be quicker and or cheaper
My Mondeo had the same issue. Thankfully a silicone replacement is only about £40 on eBay.
The Wurth industrial cleaning wipes are best Iv ever used, come in a bucket, bit expensive but try them if you ever come across them.
Even a minor boost on the modern cars is very noticeable and often quite loud, how on earth has no mechanic seen or even heard that.
Of cause , and when diagnosing you have to first verify the customer concern !
I bet the blow torch and 22mm spanner were gutted 😅
They can be smoky old girls especially if not driven enough. Mine an smax just scraped the MOT on opacity but she's getting on. I assume probably a small leak somewhere but I can't hear or see anything obvious. They are generally good cars. For bike old cars they go alright.
Great vlog. My neighbour cars doing the same thing.
Hi thank you for the video. Had same issue with ours it had split and chucking out black smoke replaced pipe with a better style and it fixed the issue
I had the exact problem on my Mondeo mk4 with the same engine. New boost pipe and all is good. No black smoke either.
I think Just cutting the end of the hose and stretching it over the nozzle mightve worked
First change boost sensor the cheapest option. Then egr and last turbo. First option mostly possible. The last option injectors
Ye to rich a fuel mix should be 1 part fuel 10 parts air blue smoke is what gets my worried thankfully haven't dealt with that yet
Did you hold up the greggs lady for those gloves hahah top work as always
I've had as far as I know the same engine on a Citroen C5. At the garage they fitted a new turbo and they left a hose barely connected. I revisited them as I had issues with black smoke and the engine didn't really pull. They said I was driving under revved, had the DPF ruined also. I sold the car and the guy took it tonhis mechanic which notticed the problem
I had that on my 07 Galaxy and the original had a sensor in it. I looked high and low to get one with a sensor, until an engineer told me that Ford has discontinued the use of the sensor. I fitted the new hose without the sensor and rang Ford. They wanted £220 to switch the sensor off.
Self amalgamating rubber tape would have fixed that temporarily. It flexes like rubber but seals too. Araldite has no flex.
what this yoke you used with vacuum tester where you put it into intake pipe and pumped it so you created a seal with it ?
Hi, great video, many thanks. Very professional👍🏻Can you please advise how this pipe is called (by the catalog name)? Thanks
Garage's pick what they want to do, mostly the big money jobs & services £££
Not saying this is the case this time, but often customers tell me they have been to other garages/mechanics. When I enquire where 9/10 they went to a tyre and exhaust type service center. These places have very few properly time served mechanics or techs as they like to refer to there staff & their inexperience is glaringly obvious to real establishments. They feed the customer with all sorts of nonsense!
Yes. Plenty of good garages out there. It's always "I went to they tyre & service shop"
Tyre shops generally have filter spinners and that's about it
hi,i have black smoke and loss of power after the car heats up on a ford focus mk2.5,black smoke only on hard acceleration, pipes are ok,only a steering angle sensor fault code,any iddea?
You can start the engine up and there's no knocking no nothing I've checked the oil and checked the water I ever got a clue what's the matter with the way it keeps white keeps cutting out and sometimes it will literally go on high ribs and then you have to switch the car off bro please can help
I'm only a few seconds in but I'm taking a guess that the Egr valve isn't shutting properly
Edit, I'm now just over a minute in and guessing a split turbo hose
How can any qualified mechanic not spot that?!
@@SabretoothBarnacleWho said anything about qualified mechanic .... I've worked in a few Garages and most only had people that said they knew what they were doing without any qualifications.
I've since left the trade as I just couldn't associate myself with these cowboys .
My 1.5dci nissan quashqi gives out black smoke when i give it some beans i might have to get it checked after seeing this.
If it has a hard plastic pipe that goes over the top of the engine, they usually split at the corrugated part
I have an Astra 17.cdti 2011 plate, I have been having trouble ever since i purchased the car, It starts every time it runs ok when it is cold but as soon as it warms up and i'm stopped in the traffic it starts to idle rough jumping between 850rpm and 500rpm. I also notice if i put my foot down i also get a big puff of black smoke and sometimes a smell of diesel inside the car.
I was told it was the SCV suction control valve, so brought a new one changed it and still the same, then i was told it was the glowplugs, Brought glowplugs changed them and still the same, then was told it was the mass air flow sensor, brought a new one changed it still the same.
another said it was injectors and another said it was an air leak?
Do you know if the Astra J 1.7cdti 2011 has the same pipe as the broken one in the video? and if that may also be a possible cause?
Thanks in advance.
Have you checked and cleaned the EGR valve and the below pipe.. these engines do get coked up and i have to clean my EGR & filters every 6 months on my zafira 1.7cdti, otherwise it drinks diesel like a fish…and runs like crap.. by the way no codes and short city journeys. Need to consider changibg for a petrol
@@neildean7515 I did clean the EGR but not the pipe below, I forgot to mention i do get a engine management light that comes on sometimes which throws a P0301 'misfire cylinder 1, This only happens when the idle drops below a certain rpm. sometimes the engine light will then go off by itself.
I will take another look at the EGR and the below pipe,.
Thank you for your reply much appreciated
Did you relearn the pump when you fitted the new scv
@@tomfinch4130 Yes I had the relearn thing done by a garage, I Found the problem eventually.
Where the EGR is bolted onto the inlet manifold there is a type of covering that can be taken off and cleaned, When I went to inspect the EGR I found lots of oil around that covering which told me it was leaking. Until the bits arrive to fix the issue I Tightened up the covering and the rough idle diminished a lot. Hopefully the lock tight and gasket come this week so I can do a proper job. I think the covering which I speaking of is What the guy above called the EGR under pipe.
Rough idle will cause an EML to come on with the code p0301, which is cylinder 1 misfire and the misfire is caused by the rough idle. EGR in my case.
Any Updates on the Galaxy
Staggered no garage could spot that problem with their eyes in under 10seconds. They shouldnt be touching any car if that is there level of inability. You can hear the boost leak at idle, off load, before even opening the bonnet !
Only just started watching be boost leak
Ford x max Twice now it's literally just cut out then it'll start to smoke and then you can if you restart it try to restart it won't start but he'll leave it a few seconds it will start but start smoking white
Well I really don’t know how they get any work or people even want to go to theses garages crazy.
Engine mount may be gone as well too much movement
lol
that smacks of a diyer or an unhappy apprentise