I Printed This Tool To Make Tapping Easy
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- Опубликовано: 8 фев 2025
- Music: Minecraft soundtrack
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My name is Chris, I am a 3D printing hobbyist from australia. I dont really specialise in anything specific, but 3D printed tools and tabletop accessories are some things youll probably seen quiet often. I do all my 3d printing on a Ender 3, which I highly recommend as a budget printer. Currently I only run 1 printer but I hope to expand that in the future. Recently acquired a photon 0 to do resin printing with. I like to share all my 3D printing ideas for free although I do plan to sell stuff in the future. Most of my projects will be mostly 3D printed with a few non printed components included, these can often be found on ebay. I actually use the cheapest filament I can get for all my projects, again I hope to change this in the future.
![Noob To Max With DRAGON REWORK In Blox Fruits [FULL MOVIE]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/LnBMOinoOvA/mqdefault.jpg)
Your custom tool videos makes me wish manufactures would make actually decent looking equipment. I understand price vs use, but having my shop be a unattractive location isn't my style. Good thing we got people like yourself sharing the rough parts of designing simple tools.
Remember that designing something that is supposed to be produced in literally thousands pr day vs something that you can 3D print and assemble yourself are two completely different tasks of engineering with wildly different challenges.
@@mr_gerber Yes, I agree with your point. However, only to the extent of cheaper tools where every dollar counts. Manufacturers should spend their full budget on designing function over form.
Nonetheless, once you get into more permanent advertised tools that will last the life of your shop; there would be no reason Manufacturers couldn't get hard plastic formed/injected exterior elements.
If hand power tool designers/producers have been developing cheaper, better looking tools for longer; there is no reason desk tools couldn't look great as well.
Sorry to be a pedant, but it's only 'concrete' if you add an aggregate to the mixture... What you're using is just cement. It's an important distinction because if people go out and buy a bag of concrete, they'll probably find it contains chunks of rock/stone (aggregate) that make it unsuitable for this sort of project.
If we are going to be correct, this is not cement either. This is mortar. Cement is pure “glue” and it’s not meant to used alone.
Concrete = stones + sand + cement + water
Mortar = sand + cement + water
BTW. He’s is calling it concrete because he actually bought concrete and sifted all the stones out. So what he has is mortar with the ratio of ingredients a bit off.
i love how you truly take advantage of what 3d printing can do, instead of what so many others do and hold back their designs for nonexistent limitations of the manufacturing process
I truly appreciate how much you value tools having an appropriate weight. It makes such a difference.
I really like the close up shot of the screw breaking off the concrete, that was very cool
I build myself one of these a while back using aluminium extrusions, a left over switchable magnetic indicator foot, a rod and an old chuck. The benefit is that I can use it easily in the middle of larger sheet goods, or take it where I need to use it with ease, and of course since it's magnetic it can either be put on a big piece of steel for support, or just attached to the object I'm tapping if it is already ferromagnetic.
Amazing! Those macro shots were very nice!
WOAH! I just realized that you PRINTED the lens housing! Amazing!
The Minecraft music is always a nice touch ✨
Should have made a desk top cement mixer first. 🤣
Great video. Keep up the good work.
You should try self-leveling floor compound instead of concrete, costs more(still cheap though) but is more uniformly dense and heavier, stronger in thin layers(usually fiber reinforced) and shrinks less when dried compared to concrete..
I had a thought on the concrete from your last video. You might be able to print an adaptor to bolt to your inlet, which then connects to a tube (e.g. 50mm pvc). Fill the pipe with concrete, and plunge/ram it into the mould. similarly, your outlet ports could be fitted with a clear overflow tube, allowing you to seal it, and also see if the level drops when you vibrate it.
Overall, absolutely loving your work. Please do keep making more tools like this. A pleasure to watch on a rainy day.
Watching him take off the tape _before_ scraping and cleaning up the concrete in every build...
Concrete and 3D prints to replace galvanized steel and eco friendly wood veneers as the new ultimate material combination. (Loving the series of tools, it reminds me of the Gingery books on building lathe/other tools from scratch).
Little John finally saved enough money selling bars of jelly to buy his first workshop, only to find out it was the size of a shoebox. Let's see how he turns this 0.72 sq ft coffin into a fully function workshop. First, he barrowed a 3D printer from his aunt and used eco-friendly recyclable filament to print a durable shell for the machine components and pressed industrial grade heat set inserts in to fasten the parts together. He then filled it the shell with self healing roman concrete - durable for then thousand years.
Chris, Me again! Getting stuck into your videos one after the other. I didn't know about this tool as I usually tap with a battery operated drill. I think this is a nice addition to have in the workshop and even easier to make now that you have provided the printable files. Thanks again for your videos, I love them! From PeterPiperPickles in the USA
man its not just your machines that are amazing, its the way you show your design process and justify your decisions. awesome!
have you considered using the parts from the old tapper and making the head (or entire arm) from wood, so it doesn't transmit heat? Then you can mount the heating end of a soldering iron and never have issues pressing in threaded inserts ever again.
I know you need somewhere for the air to escape but maybe clear packing tape for the view ports when pouring the concrete would work? might also give a smoother finish to the also, idk....
actually covering the top in tape seems like a good idea, though if it's flat I'd use dollar store cutting board for that textured finish.
@@satibel that's not bad, I was thinking of it being clear so you could see if it was filled, but you could peal it off and put the boards on after for the texture if you wanted.
You may try cutting a small slit in clear packing tape and putting that over your sight holes. Should allow for air to pass through but (mostly) block the concrete
this is the perfect channel, awesome, useful 3d prints with calming minecraft music. thank you!
EDIT: and macro shots. how beutiful
I love this series, when I move I am so going to build all of them
You're such an inspiration. When I watch your videos, I always want to add another, of not five more projects to my ever growing backlog. Thanks for sharing them.
haver you experimented with different concretes? For example would a self leveling concrete flow easer through the models?
for vibrating, you can buy a "massage wand" or a fascia massage gun depending on the strength you need. (both around 25-30 bucks.) (also you can use the massage gun without a head for more gentle vibration.)
I like the concrete idea! Gave me the idea to grab a bag from home depot and make a cheap cnc lathe since ive had a vague design in my head for a whole now.
I found your channel today, and wow, I always thought 3d printing was cool, but never made the jump to getting one because I saw it as quite limited in application because at the end of the day it's flimsy plastic, but combined with concrete like you have, it really opens possibilities !
really loving your channel
braided fishing line mentioned
Love the Video ! Learned some nice stuff like using a sander for Vibration or that concrete and 3d prints can be combined well
With all the ragebait diy projects that use that thin concrete, it's really satisfying to see an actual use for it.
look into form taps, easier and stronger threads, just needs a drill press.
Great work! Looks very practicle and I like the "toy like" design..!
I saw video where they used the head of a bolt to push down the heated inserts and it worked great 👍
you are the most amazing 3d printer artist ever
You are so good at this!
You should do a trial about concreting 3D prints - your approach and lessons learnt
Amazing video chris! but a bit of color correction would make it even better.
Can’t wait for you to 3d print a milling machine! 😅
I'm sure when he does, it'll be filled with concrete :)
Next project could be a threaded insert station. I built one from the hardware of an old 3d printer, a piece of wood and some 3d printed part to connect everything. Comes in very handy
Love the videos, your projects are awesome but definitely need to make yourself a heat press insert tool next!
Great as always! 2 questions: 1) why bother with threaded inserts for pieces that are later filled with concrete? It's doesn't seem like you are going to unscrew them a lot, so just screwing a screw into plastic should do the job. 2) do you attach a die to this?
A cake decorating squeeze bag would work for applying cement paste. That way you won't be dependent upon gravity. Use a vibrating device and a coat hanger wire to fill in voids. Abrading the surface of concrete is only as difficult as the hardest mineral clast used in the suspension.
After watching you install those heat-set threaded inserts, I'm thinking you should make a modified version of this that also holds a soldering iron too :)
I’m enjoying this series of videos 😀
A nice mod for this would be the ability to feed a 2020, 3030 etc extrusion through the base, hold it straight and true, and tap the end of the extrusion for a blind joint. Maybe by hanging the front end of the tapper over the edge of the workbench
Great Video. I am curious where you got the RAAF apprentice vice from as seen in your video. I have not seen one of them before on RUclips. You sound too young to have made it yourself 😊.
NICE 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼. Would it make better sense to design it with extruded Al? There are “unistruts”.
Good idea using the concrete. Have you seen concrete lathe from the 40s? Ramp up for WW2
Now as you experemented with concrete, do you think a bigger beefier lathe or even a mill is doable with 3d printing, with some alluminum or carbonfiber rods and concrete filling?
Ahahahah the scientific method of slapping around to feel its weight
I love the design!, you should try making an arbor press with it! :D
One can smooth the concrete after pouring, it can produce a “glass” surface…almost.
Hi Chris this is Alvin from Canadavenjoy your videos with your cement pour you might want to try a piping bag used for cakes decorating also we use a finer cement that flows well and does not shrink used to patch cracks in concrete cheers
What type of concrete are you using?
maybe I missed it, but do you or have you considered adding any fiber material to reinforce the concrete. supposed to increase the tensile strength, fairly cheap.
Damn, you are crazy productive!
I kinda miss the float-lock vice on this one. I wonder if there's a way to integrate it into the design while keeping the thicker arm.
What about a crank on the top for V3 ?
The intro looks a bit in style of Not an Engineer, and you both seem to like orange color :) Nice video!
You should really look into concrete plasticizers.
I will never understand the issues with installing heat set inserts. 1. Heat insert with iron until it melts into the hole but stays proud of the surface. 2. Push insert flush to surface with any flat piece of metal. 3. Wait a handful of seconds. 4. Admire your perfectly installed insert.
And buy tips specifically made for heat sets, they come in a set of 5 for different sizes and cost like what, 5 bucks on Aliexpress? So he doesn't have to lay the soldering iron flat like that and risk melting the prints.
Buy the ones with the helical knurled bits rather than straight. They are designed for 3D printing and stay in way better.
I find that heat set inserts aren't all that great, the vast majority of the time you're better served by a hex recess for a nut, or just modeled thread depending on if it's supposed to come apart or not.
it's rare that you can't afford the 2-3mm extra of a captive nut
they do look good though
@@satibel 100%. I usually redesign so I can use a nut. If I can't, PET-CF takes a thread well - especially anything M4 and above and when you only need to fasten once. But heat inserts can be fine - especially if they are pulled in and not pulled out if you see what I mean.
@@MrJofArnold yeah if you have to use heat set, it's way better to insert from the outside, and optionally add a cap if you want to hide the screw (a good tip is to use adhesive rubber feet, though imo accessible screws are better.)
Self tapping screws are a good candidate too.
But another design I like if you don't need as much strength is rail and ball detent (though if you have a flexible plastic you can just use a flexure detent
For a ball detent if you have space you can use a regular spring, but if you don't, use either a wedge, or one I like is simply a spring steel blade, a great source of that is windshield wipers.
(Basically what you do is make a slot where the blade goes and csg subtract the ball with 1/4th-1/3rd out, and add a path to insert the ball and a cap)
For ball and spring you do the same for the ball, but use a box subtract the widh of the spring and add a cylinder on the non ball end to secure the spring and a cylinder and box cut along the diagonal for the wedge
Cool tool. What is the concrete mix used?
I love your channel so much.
you should consider dental stone instead of cement, it's a lot easier to work with
AND WITH MINECRAFT SOUNDS you won me over now
Only the best MC music
Is there a specific formula you used for the concrete? Do you know if there is any particular blend/mixture that you would recommend?
Can it handle being driven by a drill
Time for a threaded insert tool
No, you don't find that kind of thing AT walmart. Walmart has recently been attempting to encroach on Amazon's / eBays' business. Such items are almost certainly sold through 3rd parties, and are of dubious quality, if I'm being generous. Also rife with outright scams.
yeah I found most stores add 3rd party sellers to their website, because it's a great way to get money, it's basically dropshipping with fewer steps on their part.
Any news on a v2 camera lucidaplease
Loving these video's. Any chance you can increase the sound levels? I'm having a really hard time hearing you.
thanks for offering good to form and build.. but in my case, firstly, I need to drill a hole rightly.. 😅
I love the minecrsft music on background
Just have a really quick question, do you know what the difference between concrete and cement is?
Are STLs available to patrons?
No I dont think its a normal thing to find in the US xD I found a lot of walmarts online things are from third parties selling items on it.
Now that your filling all your 3D prints with concrete, maybe it's time to 3D print (and concrete fill) a cement mixer :)
Hi! Is stl files available somewhere for your beautifull project
So where can I download the print?
Just use a drillpress
Where do you source all your hardware
awsome
Where do I get the files?
man you make me want to get a 3D printer
Link to STL files?
A slightly more expensive option for the counterweight is coins
Next version motor driven.. 🤔
just wondering what you use for vibrating the concrete at 4:19
In a previous video he used the side/bottom of a battery powered sander.
pog cris. lovely vid
It's strange that you don't use high-strength concrete.
Why not just print jigs/guides for the specific job? There is simply way too many instances where this kind of arm wouldn't even be sufficient, like tapping something very long in one end like an aluminum profile.
Love the video… but…. Is that Minecraft music in the background? 🤔😂
Imagine what this guy could do with abs or PA ….
It thocks :p
The Minecraft music I cant😢
Have you ever thought about printing hardware?
lol I been using taps and dies for around 35 years and never needed a whole other machine for merely holding the tap to secure inline with the hole to be tapped. I mean, good grief, use your hands to apply the proper pressure and a simple carpenter's square to keep the tap perpendicular to the surface being tapped
Man up and throw the tap in a drill.
Chris, is it possible to get in touch with you via email? Got a question.