I made mine over 4 years ago. I use it all the time. Use a longer bar, make a stronger base for it it won't wobble. I upgraded mine. it works a lot better
I have it bolted down to the floor now. Way easier, I also drilled a couple holes so I can hold the rim down better. I’ll try the longer bar for a bit more leverage.
I got the tools for the same reason as you, tire shops didn't have the time, I work all day, don't get too many days off. Great mods, some day I might try to do something similar to it. Thanks for your video.
I just got one of these changers and decided to bolt it directly to the concrete floor using only the square flange at the bottom of the main tube. I drilled out the original holes for 1/2" bolts and used flush drop-in anchors so I can remove the unit for storage. This thing is super rigid attached this way, and I don't have any problems at all breaking beads with the wheels flat on the floor. A towel can be laid down to protect sensitive rims. I really don't get what those crisscross c-channel parts are for that they provide to bolt this down with. They seem to make the unit less rigid in the long run. I am definitely going to built the duck head mod!
I defiantly need to bolt it down. They only had 3/8” drop in anchors at a store near me so I went the plywood route in a pinch. Want to bolt it down and make it removable. Good to know 1/2” anchors make it plants rigid.
I built the mod duckbill for mine and bolted it down so i can remove it and reinstall it when i need it. It worked great, i did both my cars and a jeep with 16" AT tires with no problems.
I agree, the crisscross c channels make it harder to use. Just put a 2 x 4 under the tire /rim and make sure the breaker arm is completely vertical. Also it needs to rub the rim to work. Try it, boom works the first time almost every time. To mount the changer to the floor I just used those blue masonry anchor screws from Home depot just on the base (the size that fits in there maybe 1/4" nothing big. . .and I have leaned on it hard for about 6 years now. Its rigid. Works on Motorcycle tires and car tires really well. I will make one of these one day (with square tubing).
The only improvements I saw were the rubber coverings...Which u can add to the red one yourself as I did.. Changing the rod that goes through the lug hole to hold the wheel from spinning to a drop in bolt/rod is actually a down grade from the red unit...
Could you please give us the actual length, ID and OD size of the main tube which goes over the HB one? And also the length and thickness of the round tubes? Thank you, this was a very nice and simple to understand video!
Sorry just got back from a trip, the od of the harbor freight tube is 2.05” roughly and my id is just a hair over 2” and 12 1/2” in height. I would use square tubing for the arm around 1 1/2” or 1 1/4” and the size below it to fit inside.
I just did a set of 33s this would of made it easier for sure. But the rubber pad you say to set your wheel on i put on top of the wheel instead of taping the not so centering piece
Leave a tiny bit of air in the tire and use bead lube/soapy water. Even if you let the air out and just put the valve back in so air can escape as easy while pressing on the bead. Bead breaks much easier that way.
@6:10 in the video you are just pushing on the tire side wall. Pull the tire/rim towards you about 4-5 inches. One should pull the tire/rim away from the bead breaker slightly on a angle in order for it to push against the underside of the bead/ rim when one is pushing down. It shouldn't just push on the tire side wall but directly on the bead and rim while pushing down on the bar.@ShopDogFabrication
I think you'd be better off grinding a flat in your round tube so those screws are pressing a plane against a plane, instead of a plane against a line (tangent the circle)
It's easier, and less harmful to rims and tires, just to use a couple of spoons and some good lube to remove and install tires on any rim. Duckbills and other rotating levers are only faster/easier when powered by a machine with gobs of torque and anchored to a concrete shop floor.
Not sure about everything, but this mod makes sense. I think it made changing a tire a whole lot easier. The blast cabinet mods I did helped a bunch as well. Now that I think of it, I guess I have modded a couple of things. Lol
I made mine over 4 years ago. I use it all the time. Use a longer bar, make a stronger base for it it won't wobble. I upgraded mine. it works a lot better
I have it bolted down to the floor now. Way easier, I also drilled a couple holes so I can hold the rim down better. I’ll try the longer bar for a bit more leverage.
I got the tools for the same reason as you, tire shops didn't have the time, I work all day, don't get too many days off. Great mods, some day I might try to do something similar to it.
Thanks for your video.
Appreciate you taking the time to watch and commenting!! It makes it easier to change a tire.
I just got one of these changers and decided to bolt it directly to the concrete floor using only the square flange at the bottom of the main tube. I drilled out the original holes for 1/2" bolts and used flush drop-in anchors so I can remove the unit for storage.
This thing is super rigid attached this way, and I don't have any problems at all breaking beads with the wheels flat on the floor. A towel can be laid down to protect sensitive rims. I really don't get what those crisscross c-channel parts are for that they provide to bolt this down with. They seem to make the unit less rigid in the long run. I am definitely going to built the duck head mod!
I defiantly need to bolt it down. They only had 3/8” drop in anchors at a store near me so I went the plywood route in a pinch. Want to bolt it down and make it removable. Good to know 1/2” anchors make it plants rigid.
73dcp what length bolts did you use to secure it to the concrete?
@@bryans8193 I think 1-1/2"
I built the mod duckbill for mine and bolted it down so i can remove it and reinstall it when i need it. It worked great, i did both my cars and a jeep with 16" AT tires with no problems.
I agree, the crisscross c channels make it harder to use. Just put a 2 x 4 under the tire /rim and make sure the breaker arm is completely vertical. Also it needs to rub the rim to work. Try it, boom works the first time almost every time. To mount the changer to the floor I just used those blue masonry anchor screws from Home depot just on the base (the size that fits in there maybe 1/4" nothing big. . .and I have leaned on it hard for about 6 years now. Its rigid. Works on Motorcycle tires and car tires really well. I will make one of these one day (with square tubing).
Might try using the other end of the bar with the hook so it doesn’t keep slipping off.
For your round insert. Instead of 2 set bolts use one on the corner. It will hold the round stock tighter one the square tube.
Thanks for the tip, I have a couple more tires to remove, I’ll give it a try.
A company makes it. Lucid
I like the improvements that were made from the red one we have! Great video!
Thanks so much! Appreciate you taking the time and providing feedback.
The only improvements I saw were the rubber coverings...Which u can add to the red one yourself as I did..
Changing the rod that goes through the lug hole to hold the wheel from spinning to a drop in bolt/rod is actually a down grade from the red unit...
@@BDOML9101 the red pin is garbage and the first thing to bend. I drilled mine out to accept a bolt. You may have seen that in my video.
That pin is a waste like you said. I pretty much drilled gm / ford / mopar bolt pattern in mine for a least 2 bolts to hold the rim in place.
Could you please give us the actual length, ID and OD size of the main tube which goes over the HB one? And also the length and thickness of the round tubes? Thank you, this was a very nice and simple to understand video!
Sorry just got back from a trip, the od of the harbor freight tube is 2.05” roughly and my id is just a hair over 2” and 12 1/2” in height. I would use square tubing for the arm around 1 1/2” or 1 1/4” and the size below it to fit inside.
I just did a set of 33s this would of made it easier for sure. But the rubber pad you say to set your wheel on i put on top of the wheel instead of taping the not so centering piece
I put mine on a heavy duty pallet and use the forks on my tracktor so i can use it anywhere
Good to know I can do 33 no problem, I have 31s now on my truck. So when the time comes it can be done.
You have to fixing the ground Plate from the Harbor Freight Tire Changer on your Garage-ground with Bolds!
I did, I just didn’t have them at the time of the video.
May be a good idea to have a dedicated pry bar that has the sharp corners rounded off to avoid damaging the tire.
That the plan, make it a spoon shape or buy and actual tire iron, what I had to use in a pinch.
Leave a tiny bit of air in the tire and use bead lube/soapy water. Even if you let the air out and just put the valve back in so air can escape as easy while pressing on the bead. Bead breaks much easier that way.
Thanks for the tip!! Really appreciate, I have 3 tires I need to bust off. Will defiantly give it a whirl.
@6:10 in the video you are just pushing on the tire side wall. Pull the tire/rim towards you about 4-5 inches. One should pull the tire/rim away from the bead breaker slightly on a angle in order for it to push against the underside of the bead/ rim when one is pushing down. It shouldn't just push on the tire side wall but directly on the bead and rim while pushing down on the bar.@ShopDogFabrication
I think you'd be better off grinding a flat in your round tube so those screws are pressing a plane against a plane, instead of a plane against a line (tangent the circle)
That’s a good suggestion, I’ll have to see what I can do.
Is it for only tire removal or installation as well and which duckhead better of those 2 in description?
They are both the same by 2 different sellers, I list both of them in case one is not in stock. You use the same one to mount and dismount the tires.
It would also work better when putting the tire back on if you use a lubricant...
Agreed, I think I used simple green at the time. Something better would help for the next go round.
are 315s too big for these harbor freight tire machines?
I had a guy tell me he’s done 35 inch truck tires on them. I’ve done a 275 before.
The rubber pad is for the top of the wheel, not under it. Nice work otherwise!
Wasn’t sure where it went but that makes perfect since to protect the rim.
Can I please pay you to build me the add on, I have the same black tire machine
There are several people that sell them on eBay. Different levels or kits.
U country name sir..Rate pls
It's easier, and less harmful to rims and tires, just to use a couple of spoons and some good lube to remove and install tires on any rim. Duckbills and other rotating levers are only faster/easier when powered by a machine with gobs of torque and anchored to a concrete shop floor.
I have a spoon now and it’s bolted to the floor. When I shot the video didn’t have anchors to bolt it down. Works pretty slick when I need it.
is it just me or does everything from Harbor Freight need to be modified....
Not sure about everything, but this mod makes sense. I think it made changing a tire a whole lot easier. The blast cabinet mods I did helped a bunch as well. Now that I think of it, I guess I have modded a couple of things. Lol