Robert you are AMAZING!!!! I just watched both videos for this part and I’m always so impressed by your skills and patience. It’s a gift, I promise cause my molds are ALWAYS terrible 😭😭😭
There is nothing insufficient about a resin print. This is a mold making and resin casting channel. I did it to demonstrate techniques for casting a complex and difficult object.
100% here to enjoy you rolling off terms like "theropod" and "tyrannosauridae" like they're items on a Sunday brunch menu. Always love a channel that doesn't talk down to the viewer!
Thank you for making this. I was thinking about trying to make a silicone mold of a very similar skull. I'm so glad I didn't attempt it. After watching this I know it would have been a disaster.
It is easier to remove the parts added by wax than it is to remove parts of a 3D print. That makes it easier to demold the original, and reduces the chance that it is damaged during that process. There are some areas that I might have added a sheet to close the holes in the model before it was printed (e.g. the pathways in the jaws that he filled with clay) but the original artist/paleontologist would not have likely planned on that as it would be more important to them that the model was as accurate to the original as possible over making it easy to cast.
@@andy-in-indy I guess my question may have been misunderstood? If you added the parts in the cad model for the teeth and the other cavities it would have 3D printed just fine created less work later. Or am I missing something?
@@DoctorNOS I sculpt anatomically accurate skulls for 3D printing, and that was the case for this skull. I model in every detail I can and deal with the issues that creates when I print them, usually lots of support material removal. Robert and I talked about the cavities in the lower jaw and he advised me to leave them as they were so that is what we did. But you are correct it would have been quick work to fix this in the software, but I trust Robert for the wizard he is.
If I am making the 3D model I prep everything for casting, sometimes I also add the vents, sprue, etc. For this model we collaborated and Jesse cut the model into pieces for molding. I didn't notice the cavities in the model until I had it in hand. So I filled in with clay. It worked out fine.
Grrrreat video! Ive had cure inhibition issues with SLA prints like that. Did you use a tin cure silicone for these molds? Where do you suggest to get tin cure silicone rubber in bulk?
I always use tin-based silicone when molding 3D prints. I buy EconoSil 25 from www.silpak.com in 40 pound kits. It’s a soft and flexible tin-based silicone.
I love the tape trick, I will use that method in the future. It looks like using tape might allow you to skip a step and not wax the wood. I suppose you could also use the aluminum tape they use to seal HVAC systems. I use it for a ton of things, the adhesive sticks like crazy and the aluminum is super durable.
Great video as always Robert. With all of the sprues and vents in this project, have you ever experimented with sprue diameter and it's relationship to the resin's viscosity (cps)? I feel like you've dialed in the right sprue diameter for your resin of choice.
I'd like to know this answer too. I'm inclined to make my sprues fairly thin (its air passing thru after all), but i always make the sprue CONNECTIONS (junctions) quite beefy. I've seen in some sand/metal casting that they use "blind sprues" (which don't escape to the exterior) and I've wondered if something similar could be used for resin casting.
It is a critical relationship. Not just because of the viscosity of the resin but also the size of the cavity. The air vents can be very thin; I make them bigger than necessary because you have to cut each one open to release the casting. The resin inlet sprue diameter must be just big enough to allow the resin to easily and quickly fill the cavity. If it is too small the mold might not fill before the resin gels. Too big and it is a pain to clean up. I have never been able to come up with a formula, I just go by experience and feel.
Hi, just recently discovered your channel. Great videos! Had a binge watch and subscribed! .. I'm wondering, that hot wax tool you use, do you think a cheapie polystyrene foam cutter tool would work? They look similar. 🤔
Depends on how hot the polystyrene cutter is. Wax melts at a relatively low temperature which is why soldering irons don’t work as wax tools. The lowest temperature setting burns up the wax.
A couple of questions about Sculpey. First, why use it to fill in instead of oil clay? Second, do you think Sculpey is acceptable for making funnels? That is, if there isn't any inhibition issue; I know that un-baked Sculpey can eat some plastics so it's got some interesting chemicals in it.
Oil clay would have worked just as well. The best way to know if you will have cure inhibition is to test your materials. If your rubber works with it then sculpey would be fine for making funnels.
Once again a brilliant video Robert, Thank You. As a matter of interest, how long did it take you from receiving the 3d print to pouring the final silicone at the end of the video? This looks like a good 5 or 6 days work? Best Regards Jez
This project was 2 full weeks of work but shooting the video make everything so much harder and slower. If a client handed me the pieces and asked for a mold and castings I would ask for a week, but the actual job would be 2-3 days of work.
I don't know if you've done a video like this before, but do you know of a way to cast something on top/around another object? I'm planning on carving something with clay on top of a wooden staff, then casting it with resin, but I keep second-guessing the process I should take. any tips or advice?
It’s alway tricky to pot an object into a mold and pour resin around it, but it can be done. If it was a one-off project I would do the sculpture with epoxy clay and skip the molding step. If it is something you’re making multiples of, I would design the model to be cast separately and attached to the staff after casting. In other words, I would do almost anything to avoid potting the wooden staff into the mold. That’s because of the problems you will have to overcome. First, you will have to design the mold to fit around the staff tightly enough so that it does not leak. If you are a casting in urethane the resin might react with the moisture in the wood and foam. Also, the resin will shrink slightly as it cures and might crack. And finally, you will probably not be able to use pressure to cast the resin because you won’t be able to fit the staff into a tank. So you’ll have bubbles in the casting to contend with.
WoW....there is going to be exacto blades used in cutting this lot open Robert..... I look forward to seeing our casting teacher demonstrate his skills next week. Have fun
This video was awesome. The complicated part, the explanations, 3 see through mold cases, A DINOSAUR! And well cut, shortened where needed, super entertaining. Good job, Robert!!!
The vast majority of less mixed material is at the end of the pour; there's a lot to be said for pouring 80% of the material, covering most of the model and making room in the cup, re-mixing the ballance and pouring it at a distance from the model.
Well he’s a dead guy/animal so we’ll need to send off some dna 🧬 testing done before we can know specifics 😂😂😂 LOL.. jk with ya!!! I’m sure that dang spell correct got involved here 👌🤣
Depends on the job. For 90% of my work I use an inexpensive tin-based rubber. That is because it does the job and I don’t care about archiving the molds. When a job comes in that requires platinum, such as food-grade molds for restaurants, I switch to platinum.
Haha a couple of people downvoted this video, that is truly hilarious! 'Hilarious' as in 'what is wrong with you?'. Robert Tolone is a real treasure for sharing all his knowledge with us. You don't realize how much time this all takes.
@@RobertTolone Well there's a compliment in there somewhere haha! At the end of this video I was just psyched to watch the next. Thank you so much Robert!!
Another absolutely amazing addition to your channel. "Like a champ!!!" Looking forward to part II. If I may pick your brain, would you know why I am getting cure inhibition with beeswax and R-2128?
It's a platinum rubber and they are notoriously sensitive. Are you using pure beeswax? Any solvents, pigments or anything else in the wax? What is the surface you're waxing? It's possible the wax is not isolating the material enough. Only systematic testing will locate the culprit that's affecting the rubber.
@@RobertTolone wow! That was a quick response! I was using a triple filtered 100% organic beeswax on a sturdy cardboard. The product was older, and left over from a tattoo aftercare ointment I used to produce. Maybe it was cross contaminated? Beings that this is my first, second and third attempts at silicone and resin yesterday, I did break down last night and sacrificed some blue sprue wax to coat the mold case and it worked out fine. I'm hoping fresh beeswax will solve the issue in the future. I really appreciate you taking your time to reply. Your channel is awe inspiring and compelled me to start this new adventure. Your techniques bring comfort to a process that I had always percieved as overwhelming. Thank you so much and I hope you have a great weekend!
Can I ask your advice on something slightly peripheral? If you were making a mold from a 3D print, but you wanted to eliminate all layer lines because you were going to pour transparent epoxy into the mold (and you wanted it to be very clear), what would you do? Watching this episode, I wondered if you might paint/coat the model with wax to fill in all the little steps. But I'm afraid if I tried it I would just make a mess.
I have been confronting this issue for 25 years. I’m a sculptor, mold making and resin casting is just one part of my workflow. I make toy prototypes based on characters from movies and TV shows. Everything from Star Wars to Sesame Street, Disney, Nickelodeon, etc. Most of the toys are for kids meals in fast food restaurants. Back in the bad old days in the mid 90s we would send a CAD model out to a service bureau for printing. It was extremely expensive and the print quality was never very good. So we had to print the models 5 or 10% oversized (to allow for wax shrinkage) then make a silicone mold from it. This was poured in sculptor’s wax and the entire thing finished by hand to eliminate the layer lines and other printing artifacts. I always believed that it was much faster to simply start with a block of wax than create a character using this process. By the time you did the CAD, the printing, the mold and the resculpting it was faster and cheaper to hand sculpt it. Resin printing has charged all that. The print quality is really amazing and the machines are cheap. The process is still labor-intensive however. Filament printing leaves layer lines that you either accept as part of the design or you need to remove by hand. So to finally answer your question, I would not use wax to clean up a filament print. I would use a filler or high-build sanding primer. Wax is so much softer than filament I have never been successful getting a good surface finish on parts that way. But you could try it. On their channel, Robinson Foundry cleaned up a 3d printed ape skull with wax before casting it in metal. Check that video out.
@@RobertTolone Thank you so much for your thoughtful reply! I am in fact outsourcing for a resin 3D print, and when I pour opaque polyurethane into molds from these, they look amazing. But I've never poured clear epoxy before - the 3D prints I get back still have the minutest of layering, and I'm concerned the transparent nature of the pour will magnify this. Or maybe I'm just over-thinking it? I have seen one resin printing technology with no lines whatsoever, but it is completely outside my price range : P
Thank you for all your excellent and informative videos. This one in particular was an exquisite casting. Would it be improper to ask what model of 3D printer the customer used to create the initial template, on the off chance they gave you that information? I'm a beekeeper trying to decide on a 3D printer to use to create templates with minimal layering to make highly detailed moulds for beeswax candles.
I don’t know which printer he used. Nowadays, just about any 3-D resin printer of sufficient size will give you excellent quality castings. Elegoo, Any Cubic, Phrozen are all good brands.
It is a scan from a real skull and a 3d resin print. Once the molds are made we can cast 2 skulls per hour. I did not ask how long it took to make the original 3-D resin print, but I know for sure it wasn’t 30 minutes!
Yes, possibly. It would be an interesting time/motion study. But my channel is a silicone mold making, resin casting channel. That’s really my area of expertise.
I watch mission specialists fly a drone ON ANOTHER PLANET and I think, "Good job Robert! You made a toy dinosaur skull this week!" Talk about trivial. 😂
Hello Robert! Loving your videos as usual, specially when it comes to challenges. I wanted to ask you, Can you make a video on your recipe of sticky wax? You can't leave that wonder just to yourself!
Hey Robert I’m loving your videos! The pace is brilliant you always answer and explain when I have questions. Awesome!! They are just great 👌 I am learning so much! Thank you 🙏
@@sarahwienbergdrawing It’s a Foredom wax carving pen. There are cheaper wax pens on the market. But I have had this one for 10 years and it’s still going strong.
![Yailin La Mas Viral, @kreizyk.official - Dale 2 (Remix) [Video Oficial]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/JaYHBzgqz94/mqdefault.jpg)
Hey, can you mold/cast this incredibly intricate skull?
Me: "Oh hell no. Impossible."
Robert: "Hold my beer"
😂🤣😂
“Hold my water”
It’s easy, just use the fighter pilot’s prayer, “Please God, don’t let me screw this up!”
No way! Next week 😢! I’m going to have to start breaking up the videos to last the week til the next one comes out! I’m having withdraws already! 🥴
Robert you are AMAZING!!!! I just watched both videos for this part and I’m always so impressed by your skills and patience. It’s a gift, I promise cause my molds are ALWAYS terrible 😭😭😭
That is extraordinarily ambitious! We’re going to need a beginner series sometime.
That’s a lot of thought and decision making in the preparatory stages, so many vents too. Looking forward to the casting next week.
This time I wanna post the first comment. ;)
Just saw the upload in time, cause I am on holiday.
But will comment again, after I watched it.
Why is the resin print insufficient for a model? Why cast it?
There is nothing insufficient about a resin print. This is a mold making and resin casting channel. I did it to demonstrate techniques for casting a complex and difficult object.
Ahh, you started him! I'm so excited to see how you do this, I'm already blown away by your workflow! Can't wait for next week
I’ve been looking forward to this project for a long time. With anticipation and trepidation!
trying to make a mold for a similar complexity object. This video helped me a great deal tyvm!
100% here to enjoy you rolling off terms like "theropod" and "tyrannosauridae" like they're items on a Sunday brunch menu. Always love a channel that doesn't talk down to the viewer!
Glad you enjoy the videos. Thanks!
Thank you for making this. I was thinking about trying to make a silicone mold of a very similar skull. I'm so glad I didn't attempt it. After watching this I know it would have been a disaster.
Seems to me that If we made lost wax castings from these molds you could cast this skull in silver or bronze. That would be very cool!
@@RobertTolone I would love to do that! Hopefully we can make that happen.
@@robinson-foundry Great! Contact me at roberttolone@yahoo.com
Why not do the filling in inside the 3D model program?
It is easier to remove the parts added by wax than it is to remove parts of a 3D print. That makes it easier to demold the original, and reduces the chance that it is damaged during that process.
There are some areas that I might have added a sheet to close the holes in the model before it was printed (e.g. the pathways in the jaws that he filled with clay) but the original artist/paleontologist would not have likely planned on that as it would be more important to them that the model was as accurate to the original as possible over making it easy to cast.
@@andy-in-indy I guess my question may have been misunderstood?
If you added the parts in the cad model for the teeth and the other cavities it would have 3D printed just fine created less work later. Or am I missing something?
@@DoctorNOS I sculpt anatomically accurate skulls for 3D printing, and that was the case for this skull. I model in every detail I can and deal with the issues that creates when I print them, usually lots of support material removal. Robert and I talked about the cavities in the lower jaw and he advised me to leave them as they were so that is what we did. But you are correct it would have been quick work to fix this in the software, but I trust Robert for the wizard he is.
If I am making the 3D model I prep everything for casting, sometimes I also add the vents, sprue, etc. For this model we collaborated and Jesse cut the model into pieces for molding. I didn't notice the cavities in the model until I had it in hand. So I filled in with clay. It worked out fine.
@@RobertTolone that’s awesome. I’ve been watching so many of your videos I am dreaming about them now. Lol. Good stuff.
You Sir, are a true professional
Niiiice clear mould
22:44 Nice Justin Wilson callback, I guar-an-tee!
Loved that guy!
...complex mechanical engeneering- parts can be made by lost-wax-casting...!
...but that's a heck of know-how to do it right...!
Grrrreat video! Ive had cure inhibition issues with SLA prints like that. Did you use a tin cure silicone for these molds? Where do you suggest to get tin cure silicone rubber in bulk?
I always use tin-based silicone when molding 3D prints. I buy EconoSil 25 from www.silpak.com in 40 pound kits. It’s a soft and flexible tin-based silicone.
Wow .. now that is a biggie project!! So glad you take us along for the ride. Can’t wait to see what happens next week 🤞🙀🙌💯💯
Scary. Not the dinosaur, the process..
😄👍
Omg you know what this video is? ITS A TREASURE
I love the tape trick, I will use that method in the future. It looks like using tape might allow you to skip a step and not wax the wood. I suppose you could also use the aluminum tape they use to seal HVAC systems. I use it for a ton of things, the adhesive sticks like crazy and the aluminum is super durable.
Great idea about the aluminum tape. I usually use 2 inch plastic packing tape.
I wish someone would put a Liiiiitle-bit-of sticky wax on MY bottom...😔
Rob , another ripper mate.
muoy excellente
Theropod dinosaurs are basically birds with teeth instead of beaks.
what kind of wax is that? where did you get it from?
and what tool is that you're melting the wax with?
I’m loving the windows!
I think everybody is! He just stumbled across that and now it’s the best way to do it.
What the wax vent for molding what's the name of it and where did you get it from?
I wish someone was big time into goobering MY molds up...😔
you are giving alot of knowledge for free. thank you.
PARABÉNS, MUITO DIDÁTICO E MUITO BEM EXPLICADO. OBRIGADO.
👍🇧🇷 LONDRINA , BRASIL.
Great video as always Robert. With all of the sprues and vents in this project, have you ever experimented with sprue diameter and it's relationship to the resin's viscosity (cps)? I feel like you've dialed in the right sprue diameter for your resin of choice.
I'd like to know this answer too. I'm inclined to make my sprues fairly thin (its air passing thru after all), but i always make the sprue CONNECTIONS (junctions) quite beefy.
I've seen in some sand/metal casting that they use "blind sprues" (which don't escape to the exterior) and I've wondered if something similar could be used for resin casting.
It is a critical relationship. Not just because of the viscosity of the resin but also the size of the cavity. The air vents can be very thin; I make them bigger than necessary because you have to cut each one open to release the casting.
The resin inlet sprue diameter must be just big enough to allow the resin to easily and quickly fill the cavity. If it is too small the mold might not fill before the resin gels. Too big and it is a pain to clean up. I have never been able to come up with a formula, I just go by experience and feel.
Hi, just recently discovered your channel. Great videos! Had a binge watch and subscribed! .. I'm wondering, that hot wax tool you use, do you think a cheapie polystyrene foam cutter tool would work? They look similar. 🤔
Depends on how hot the polystyrene cutter is. Wax melts at a relatively low temperature which is why soldering irons don’t work as wax tools. The lowest temperature setting burns up the wax.
A couple of questions about Sculpey. First, why use it to fill in instead of oil clay? Second, do you think Sculpey is acceptable for making funnels? That is, if there isn't any inhibition issue; I know that un-baked Sculpey can eat some plastics so it's got some interesting chemicals in it.
Oil clay would have worked just as well. The best way to know if you will have cure inhibition is to test your materials. If your rubber works with it then sculpey would be fine for making funnels.
Once again a brilliant video Robert, Thank You. As a matter of interest, how long did it take you from receiving the 3d print to pouring the final silicone at the end of the video? This looks like a good 5 or 6 days work? Best Regards Jez
This project was 2 full weeks of work but shooting the video make everything so much harder and slower. If a client handed me the pieces and asked for a mold and castings I would ask for a week, but the actual job would be 2-3 days of work.
I don't know if you've done a video like this before, but do you know of a way to cast something on top/around another object? I'm planning on carving something with clay on top of a wooden staff, then casting it with resin, but I keep second-guessing the process I should take. any tips or advice?
It’s alway tricky to pot an object into a mold and pour resin around it, but it can be done. If it was a one-off project I would do the sculpture with epoxy clay and skip the molding step. If it is something you’re making multiples of, I would design the model to be cast separately and attached to the staff after casting. In other words, I would do almost anything to avoid potting the wooden staff into the mold. That’s because of the problems you will have to overcome. First, you will have to design the mold to fit around the staff tightly enough so that it does not leak. If you are a casting in urethane the resin might react with the moisture in the wood and foam. Also, the resin will shrink slightly as it cures and might crack. And finally, you will probably not be able to use pressure to cast the resin because you won’t be able to fit the staff into a tank. So you’ll have bubbles in the casting to contend with.
thankyou so much for this very insightful video , especially molding complex parts, this was a great help.
Glad you found it helpful Corlen!
WoW....there is going to be exacto blades used in cutting this lot open Robert..... I look forward to seeing our casting teacher demonstrate his skills next week. Have fun
Just laid in a new supply of what X-acto claims are their sharpest blades ever! 😄
Just amazing Robert!!👏👏👏👍👍👍
This video was awesome. The complicated part, the explanations, 3 see through mold cases, A DINOSAUR!
And well cut, shortened where needed, super entertaining. Good job, Robert!!!
Thanks Roger!
The vast majority of less mixed material is at the end of the pour; there's a lot to be said for pouring 80% of the material, covering most of the model and making room in the cup, re-mixing the ballance and pouring it at a distance from the model.
Yes, that's a good method. Any bubbles you get in the remixing usually rise out of the mold with no problem.
Thing about mixing is Smooth On directions say mix it one cup pour into another without scraping the sides and mix again. 🤷♂️
Follow the manufacturer's instructions and see if it works!
If someone can cast something as complex as a skeleton, they can probably cast anything lol.
Haha Jason, you wouldn’t believe how many people send me projects that are completely NOT castable!
Like it a lot, eager to see who the molds will cast
Well he’s a dead guy/animal so we’ll need to send off some dna 🧬 testing done before we can know specifics 😂😂😂
LOL.. jk with ya!!! I’m sure that dang spell correct got involved here 👌🤣
Which silicone do you prefer? Tin or Platinum?
Depends on the job. For 90% of my work I use an inexpensive tin-based rubber. That is because it does the job and I don’t care about archiving the molds. When a job comes in that requires platinum, such as food-grade molds for restaurants, I switch to platinum.
Haha a couple of people downvoted this video, that is truly hilarious! 'Hilarious' as in 'what is wrong with you?'. Robert Tolone is a real treasure for sharing all his knowledge with us. You don't realize how much time this all takes.
Most of the gripes I get are that I don’t complete a project in a single video. Pisses people off that it’s in episodes.
@@RobertTolone Well there's a compliment in there somewhere haha! At the end of this video I was just psyched to watch the next. Thank you so much Robert!!
@@fernando749845 I very much appreciate it Fernando. Thanks!
Nature did not take into account the necessities of moldmaking when it designed this skull.
It’s survival of the fittest, even for mold makers!
Another absolutely amazing addition to your channel. "Like a champ!!!" Looking forward to part II.
If I may pick your brain, would you know why I am getting cure inhibition with beeswax and R-2128?
It's a platinum rubber and they are notoriously sensitive. Are you using pure beeswax? Any solvents, pigments or anything else in the wax? What is the surface you're waxing? It's possible the wax is not isolating the material enough. Only systematic testing will locate the culprit that's affecting the rubber.
@@RobertTolone wow! That was a quick response! I was using a triple filtered 100% organic beeswax on a sturdy cardboard. The product was older, and left over from a tattoo aftercare ointment I used to produce. Maybe it was cross contaminated?
Beings that this is my first, second and third attempts at silicone and resin yesterday, I did break down last night and sacrificed some blue sprue wax to coat the mold case and it worked out fine. I'm hoping fresh beeswax will solve the issue in the future.
I really appreciate you taking your time to reply. Your channel is awe inspiring and compelled me to start this new adventure. Your techniques bring comfort to a process that I had always percieved as overwhelming.
Thank you so much and I hope you have a great weekend!
Can I ask your advice on something slightly peripheral? If you were making a mold from a 3D print, but you wanted to eliminate all layer lines because you were going to pour transparent epoxy into the mold (and you wanted it to be very clear), what would you do? Watching this episode, I wondered if you might paint/coat the model with wax to fill in all the little steps. But I'm afraid if I tried it I would just make a mess.
I have been confronting this issue for 25 years. I’m a sculptor, mold making and resin casting is just one part of my workflow. I make toy prototypes based on characters from movies and TV shows. Everything from Star Wars to Sesame Street, Disney, Nickelodeon, etc. Most of the toys are for kids meals in fast food restaurants. Back in the bad old days in the mid 90s we would send a CAD model out to a service bureau for printing. It was extremely expensive and the print quality was never very good. So we had to print the models 5 or 10% oversized (to allow for wax shrinkage) then make a silicone mold from it. This was poured in sculptor’s wax and the entire thing finished by hand to eliminate the layer lines and other printing artifacts. I always believed that it was much faster to simply start with a block of wax than create a character using this process. By the time you did the CAD, the printing, the mold and the resculpting it was faster and cheaper to hand sculpt it.
Resin printing has charged all that. The print quality is really amazing and the machines are cheap. The process is still labor-intensive however.
Filament printing leaves layer lines that you either accept as part of the design or you need to remove by hand. So to finally answer your question, I would not use wax to clean up a filament print. I would use a filler or high-build sanding primer. Wax is so much softer than filament I have never been successful getting a good surface finish on parts that way. But you could try it. On their channel, Robinson Foundry cleaned up a 3d printed ape skull with wax before casting it in metal. Check that video out.
@@RobertTolone Thank you so much for your thoughtful reply! I am in fact outsourcing for a resin 3D print, and when I pour opaque polyurethane into molds from these, they look amazing. But I've never poured clear epoxy before - the 3D prints I get back still have the minutest of layering, and I'm concerned the transparent nature of the pour will magnify this. Or maybe I'm just over-thinking it?
I have seen one resin printing technology with no lines whatsoever, but it is completely outside my price range
: P
Thank you for all your excellent and informative videos. This one in particular was an exquisite casting. Would it be improper to ask what model of 3D printer the customer used to create the initial template, on the off chance they gave you that information? I'm a beekeeper trying to decide on a 3D printer to use to create templates with minimal layering to make highly detailed moulds for beeswax candles.
I don’t know which printer he used. Nowadays, just about any 3-D resin printer of sufficient size will give you excellent quality castings. Elegoo, Any Cubic, Phrozen are all good brands.
@@RobertTolone, many thanks.
Another great video, Robert. Thanks!
Thanks Jason!
It would be better to scan it and 3d print it with resin.
It is a scan from a real skull and a 3d resin print. Once the molds are made we can cast 2 skulls per hour. I did not ask how long it took to make the original 3-D resin print, but I know for sure it wasn’t 30 minutes!
Looking forward to Part 2 and the end result.
Part 2 tomorrow!
Yay!
next week ! Teaser :)
Wouldn't it be easier to 3D print the model in wax and do a lost wax casting?
Yes, possibly. It would be an interesting time/motion study.
But my channel is a silicone mold making, resin casting channel. That’s really my area of expertise.
@@RobertTolone Thanks a lot for the reply mate. I'm new to casting and have learnt a lot from your videos.
Love it complex . But once again its possible with your incredible master advise.
Funny....I was wanting to cast the Idaho collection.
I really want to watch the next video. great work Robert!
This was so fascinating, and chock full of information. Thanks Robert!
Thanks Meghan!
Incredible work, incredible editing, incredible tallent, incredible knowledge. Thank you for sharing with us.
Thanks for watching and commenting. It’s viewers like you that are driving and building this channel. I appreciate it very much!
AMAZING! AMAZING! THANK YOU SO MUCH!
This was really helpful to watch. Thank you for putting out these videos!
You're so welcome Steven!
You make my mold/casting challenges seem so trivial! :)
I watch mission specialists fly a drone ON ANOTHER PLANET and I think, "Good job Robert! You made a toy dinosaur skull this week!" Talk about trivial. 😂
Hello Robert! Loving your videos as usual, specially when it comes to challenges. I wanted to ask you, Can you make a video on your recipe of sticky wax? You can't leave that wonder just to yourself!
I buy it online, I don’t make it. www.freeman wax.com. But lots of places sell it.
@@RobertTolone Hmm, I don't know how I got the idea that you made it. Thanks anyway!
Hey Robert
I’m loving your videos! The pace is brilliant you always answer and explain when I have questions. Awesome!! They are just great 👌
I am learning so much! Thank you 🙏
Your wax melty tool (at minute 7.42)... what is it called? I think I need one...
@@sarahwienbergdrawing It’s a Foredom wax carving pen. There are cheaper wax pens on the market. But I have had this one for 10 years and it’s still going strong.
Glad you enjoy my videos. Thanks for watching Sarah!