I hope you feel confident in the sweater you are wearing -- the colour looks amazing on you and the neckline is flattering. I can't see the whole sweater, but appears to look great on you. This was a lot of great information.
Really appreciated the lesson on measuring upper bust and using that measurement to choose size, explains so much about why my sweaters were always to large in the shoulder area. Thank you, can't wait for the rest of this series. Have a great day. ☺
I never heard of measuring the upper bust. Thank you for explaing that and the importance of fitting your shoulders and frame versus fitting your bust. Thank you also for answering my question about the armhole length. Now I will have to check the upper chest to make sure that will be ok.
This is a terrific discussion on initial thoughts to choosing a sweater pattern. Everyone should listen to this video so they plan what shape sweater they want to make, then take proper measurements, understand if a garment will be worn underneath (therefore the need for a bit of positive ease), and printout the yarn council measurements guide and keep it available each time they want to make an article.
Tonia, this was so helpful. As I have had big shape changes as I have gotten older, I have shied away from garment knitting. I would like to make another try. I thought the distinction you made between the size of your frame and the and your chunkier area measurements was great--hadn't thought about this before. I made a summer top where I tried to add short row shaping to accommodate my bigger bust. It did help the fit but looked pretty amateurish. Alas, this top no longer fits. I feel very confident in taking your counsel on the topic of fit, because knit tops you have made and worn on your channel are so flattering..
I'm so glad you found it helpful - it felt pretty life-changing for me too when I first started using them in my garments. The more often you do them - the easier it gets!
This is so helpful and and thank you so much for verbalizing what always feels roguish to me when I disregard ease. I’m very short, “ athletic” (I think that’s a polite way of saying “blocky”) build, but with a 32-34G bust. When I see recommended ease for most popular patterns I frequently just pass them over because the amount of “ease” in the body would make me look like I’ve been shopping in the men’s big & tall store (I’m looking at you, XS Ranunculus). 😂 Using high bust with FBA will definitely help with proper sizing.
This is like a revelation! Thank you so much, I'm a busty woman but I have a small frame, and it never occurred to me to measure my upper bust, so I have a number of garments where the neckline and shoulders are too big. Looking forward to the next couple of episodes 😁
Thank you so much! I wish I'd discovered your videos earlier. I've been knitting to my full bust size and the sweaters have engulfed me as otherwise I'm petite, narrow shoulders, etc. Your explanations are excellent. I look forward to watching other videos.
Thank you so much for explaining this so clearly. I have a 10" difference between my upper bust and full bust and have NEVER been able to knit a sweater that fit. Can't wait to see the rest of this series.
Hope answers come on this topic , I do get /understand the upper bust measurement being your frame and how to have nicely fitted shoulders but wondering if looking for patterns with EASE is the answer , if they have been adjusted for ease in the bust area. Like your example , would 10 " of positive ease fit just right ? I would hardly think when they say 10" of positive ease would be at the shoulder, or at least hoping this is closer to an answer for women above C cups . So far bust shaping and darts I have done just kept garment from pulling up at the front , doesn't make any extra room , that seems like that would be a larger stitch count .
@@NYKnitter It really depends on how you want the garment to fit. I like a lot of my garments to have just a touch of negative ease at the full bust. If I just added more positive ease the garment starts to get oversized all over. That can work if I want an oversized garment but sometimes I don't - that's when bust darts are really helpful. I could have made that more clear in the video (and I'll be sure to add it to my notes for the bust darts video). Same for the original comment - she has a 10" difference between her high chest and full bust. If she chose a size that gave her 10" of positive ease it would probably fit okay across the bust but might be more positive ease than she wants for the rest of the garment. Instead, she could choose something more close-fitting and use bust darts instead of all that extra ease. Does that make sense?
@@NerdyKnitting Yes makes sense so when a designer says positive ease it is applied all over then ? Adding fullness at the front (short rows ) by allowing extra rows for bust to use up, does help some what so the bust does not pull up everything higher in front vs back that hangs flat. I am more fortunate than the original poster I was replying to that the difference between upper bust and fullest part being 10" This sounded tricky . So perhaps positive ease if it is all over is not the solution . I am with you , I don't mind gentle negative ease at the bust but if upper bust is 34 - 36 " and her shoulders are in proportion with that sounds tricky with her full bust line being 44-46 . Looking forward to seeing more on this topic, I have knitted a total of 2 sweaters so I have a long way to go as far as having any experience. Need some time to play around with what works . I have an appreciation for any insight casts like your's give.
@@NYKnitter When a designer says X" positive ease - they mean at the point of the full bust. They can change the amount of ease in other locations (like adding waist shaping) or it might be the same amount for the whole body - like a straight body with no shaping (which actually translates into MORE ease at the waist if your waist is smaller than your full bust). And you're absolutely right - the bigger the difference between the high chest and full chest the trickier it gets. Added ease can help but only up to a point or if you like really oversized, boxy sweaters.
This was EXCELLENT! I really liked your point about measuring your favorite wardrobe items. That's where I started and it really helped me even in choosing what to knit. I may like a pattern but that doesn't mean I should knit it for myself if I won't feel comfortable in it.
I am finding that the term "size inclusive" refers to offering a large number of sizes in larger sizes. I am 5'1", but have long arms and legs, and about 100 pounds. Knitting a sweater that is 39" at the bust for an XS will look ridiculous on me. Patterns for children don't have the variety of adult sizes. Add to that the issue I found with Superwash wool; when I blocked my Flax sweater, I had to "mush" it together to get the right measurements. It's one thing to "mush" a 4 x 4" gauge swatch, and another to "mush" an entire sweater that grew like those bath dinosaurs you get for your children. I frogged my Flax sweater and am reknitting it the S rather than SM size, and using US 6 needles instead of US 8. When it expands upon washing, I hope that I will not have to "mush" it together as much to make it fit.
Thank you so much. Your Informations in this video are very helpful for me. It's the first time I'm knitting a project which has the finished measurements in the pattern.
You have helped me to understand so much more about the patterns and fitting it to my body size. I always find it it frustrating to understanding what size to knit. Thanks so much.
I'm preparing to knit my first sweater (Flax). I, just finished my guage swatch, did the pre-block guage, and now waiting for it to dry for the final guage. Thank you for this video 😊
Thank you so much for this series! You are so generous to share your acquired knowledge!! I am looking forward to the modifications part: predictable sweater fit is definitely what I am currently struggling with the most, though I am not a new knitter at all (same in sewing: fit is such a difficult thing to get my mind around). I'm also broad shouldered and get lots of bagginess around my middle and lower back and under armholes. Since you've asked your audience to let you know which specific parts are puzzling, here's 2 of mine: 1. (for example with my current Jessie M. Diaphanous Raglan, but also in general) When I knit the collar on to a deep neckline, it draws in a lot, and it seems that I can never fully accomodate for this (larger needle, narrower neck band, loose bind off). How to predict or adjust the neckline size beforehand so as to prevent a too tight neckhole when you knit the collar on? 2. (sweaters in general) The back is usually too wide compared to the front, and when I improvising decreases as-I-fit, I end up with disproportional looking garments (under the arms and upper back is baggy, nearing the hips it gets too narrow: it seems like I never have enough length in the garment to fit in quite-a-few-decreases-and-then-some-increases)
For the neckline drawing in too much - maybe pick up MORE stitches than recommended. It's worth trying to see if that works. If the back is wider than the front there are a few things - pick a smaller size based on your upper bust/torso first of all. That will make it fit better in the upper body (and should avoid the too large arms). Then it's a matter of adding fabric exactly where you need it - using vertical darts by increasing and decreasing (we're discussing that in this week's video) or horizontal darts (which we'll discuss the first week of November) for larger busts (or stomach!). That way you can avoid the excess fabric in the back where it isn't needed. Another option - if you're knitting flat is to choose a smaller size for the back and a wider size for the front (but knitting them both to the same length) - that way you get the extra fabric in the front where it's needed and not in the back.
There's a waiting list you can join - I'll be sending an email when the sign-up page for the course is ready (planning to start in December): toniaknits.com/workshop/
Could you or have you talked about substituting different yarns I can't always afford the yarn that some patterns call for and I hate to buy yarn for substituting and not have it work out I have done that and its frustrating thanks 🙂
In last year's podcast episodes, we talked a lot about different fiber types and I have one video that goes over some of the basics - ruclips.net/video/a90BqFyd1QI/видео.html I'm hoping to do another series (starting in December) that goes more in-depth on this topic.
Thank you ! I am looking forward to your workshop. When I make swatches I look at the fabric.If I don't like it I do some math and find the size that matches my gauge . I tend to knit yoke sweaters so if I am working with a yarn that might stretch I will wash and block the yoke first before finishing it or use a mohair with the yarn. Not sure if that is the correct way, but seems to work
Thank you for this video. I am confused about choosing a pattern based on my shoulder measurements - to clarift, do you suggest using the bust/chest measurement offered in the pattern that is closest to my shoulder measurement and then adjusting the pattern in areas that need more/less fabric?
You've got it! If you are larger than a B cup (or more than two inches difference between your upper bust and full bust), use your upper bust measurement as your full bust measurement when choosing the appropriate size to knit. That will get you a good fit through the shoulders and, depending on the difference between the upper bust and full bust, you'll have to make adjustments (like bust darts) to accommodate the full bust.
A really helpful video, you are such a good teacher and don't go too fast. It's so reassuring to realise that most people have to adjust patterns. I thought it was just me, as I am so short. I'm interested in joining your sweater class starting in January, but I live in the UK, so I hope that it will be possible. Maureen in London, England
I'm so glad the video was helpful! And, yes, the class will be open worldwide since it will be all online. The only thing that might be difficult are the weekly live meetings since I'm in the Eastern timezone in North America but I will plan to take questions before going live for those who won't be able to ask during the livestream.
Ty this information has come at the perfect timing for me…in the past several months my two garments I knitted were both sleeveless but so big by the bust/underarm area, I will be choosing a smaller size for my next project. Ty ❤
I am a fairly new knitter and find sweaters I love but want to change the way they fit. For example, the ranunculus. It's huge on the model. But I saw it on someone in a podcast and it fit beautifully. The podcast was Knitters Kniche a few episodes ago. How in the world did she do that???
It's all about choosing the amount of positive ease you want - LOTS of positive ease for a really oversized look and LESS positive ease for a more fitted look.
@@debbiedegayner3312 Measure your bust, decide how much ease you want, and add those two numbers together. Look at the sizes and choose the size that is closest to that number.
Awesome information! When I watch knitting podcasts I get very frustrated when the host explains that they knit the pattern exactly as written. What? You're telling me, at the very least, that your arms and body are the exact same length as written? Who has the exact same measurements in both of these categories, much less all of the others? Every knitter should be making adjustments so the garment fits then properly and to their requirements, not the designer's. Thanks for giving some great advice!
I have a question regarding cardigans. Would you apply the same measurements as you do with a sweater? Would that be the measurement taken from the upper bust? Thank you so much for this video. ❤
Yes, I would still start with the upper bust if there's a large difference between my full bust or if I had broad shoulders and wanted to make sure it fits well through the shoulders. The only difference is the ease - I might want more positive ease depending on how I want the cardigan to fit (especially if I'm planning to wear it as a layering piece and will have other garments on underneath).
Quite revealing. I love all the details included here. It explains why I re-knit most of my sweaters because I don't like the fit. I had one sweater that I had to do the first sleeve 5 times because I did not like how it fit or looked. I had a bunch of fabric at the shoulder seam. I finally ended up seaming the underarm together 2 inches, then picking up the stitches. My guild members make fun of me because I never seem to follow a pattern. 😂
Very helpful! What is the idea of moving stitches, from a smaller back, to the front if you are bustier. Is that done right from the join at the underarm? Is it eased back to an equal number as you approach the waist? Hips? Thank you!
This is usually done with yoke sweaters that are knit in the round. Instead of evenly dividing stitches between the front and back when it's time to separate the front, back, and sleeves, the 'extra' stitches that aren't needed in the back are moved to the front section, which puts more fabric in the front. There's no need to ease anything back as you approach the waist (but you can add waist shaping if you want).
Great advice! I always have struggled with fit issues. My shoulders have me needing a garment that is 2-4 sizes larger than the size that would fit almost everywhere else. I also have to account for larger upper arm measurements. If I make a size that fits bust size then the arms always creep up in the underarm and the shoulders look like I'm wearing a kids' size garment. It's terribly uncomfortable. If I make the size to fit my shoulders and upper arm & yoke depth, then I look like I'm drowning in the rest of the garment. The only solution that has worked for me so far is to work with patterns that are shaped in more of a typical male shaping, but shorten arms and body length. This is fine, but I'd love to be able to make some more feminine styles that actually fit me sometimes. Is there a certain sweater style, raglan, drop shoulder, modified drop, saddle shoulder, that is better suited for broad shoulders? Thanks.
I'm not sure which style would best suit broad shoulders - perhaps a visit to a local store would be in order - you could try on different styles to see which you prefer. And I believe Amy Herzog's book - Knit to Flatter - discusses this (I think - not totally sure!). As far as knitting more feminine garments it sounds like you could still make similar modifications as you've been doing - choose a size based on your upper bust (which should correspond with a size that will fit your shoulders - as the two measurements are closely related) and then modify to fit the rest of your body.
Omg. So sad 😢 I’ve knitted the body abs tire or the chest 3x because this baby alpaca 100% is so difficult to work with + now the neck is barely going over my head and I’m into the 1 sleeve. I am not going to tear this apart again! This was supposed to be fit my mom’s bday. Hence the torso is barely long enough for me. She’s short. I’ve put a lot of work into this so far and don’t want to te as t it out 😢
If the finished bust measurement for Ranunculus did not include the amount of positive ease intended, then it wouldn't be "finished." It would simply be a body measurement. Or am I going crazy? lol That question was confusing!
This is my mistake always. I make loose jumpers to cover my breasts and to go over my belly. So I knit jumpers too loose which make me look bigger. Lately I've been looking at the finished measurements instead
Get on the workshop waiting list: toniaknits.com/workshop/
This link does not want to load for me. Has the waiting list been closed?
No, the waiting list is still open and the link is working fine on my end. Perhaps try a different device?
I hope you feel confident in the sweater you are wearing -- the colour looks amazing on you and the neckline is flattering. I can't see the whole sweater, but appears to look great on you. This was a lot of great information.
Thank you!
Really appreciated the lesson on measuring upper bust and using that measurement to choose size, explains so much about why my sweaters were always to large in the shoulder area. Thank you, can't wait for the rest of this series. Have a great day. ☺
I'm so glad it was helpful! It was certainly a lightbulb moment for me when I first figured this out! 💡
Totally agree, learned so much!
I never heard of measuring the upper bust. Thank you for explaing that and the importance of fitting your shoulders and frame versus fitting your bust. Thank you also for answering my question about the armhole length. Now I will have to check the upper chest to make sure that will be ok.
This is a terrific discussion on initial thoughts to choosing a sweater pattern. Everyone should listen to this video so they plan what shape sweater they want to make, then take proper measurements, understand if a garment will be worn underneath (therefore the need for a bit of positive ease), and printout the yarn council measurements guide and keep it available each time they want to make an article.
Tonia, this was so helpful. As I have had big shape changes as I have gotten older, I have shied away from garment knitting. I would like to make another try. I thought the distinction you made between the size of your frame and the and your chunkier area measurements was great--hadn't thought about this before. I made a summer top where I tried to add short row shaping to accommodate my bigger bust. It did help the fit but looked pretty amateurish. Alas, this top no longer fits. I feel very confident in taking your counsel on the topic of fit, because knit tops you have made and worn on your channel are so flattering..
I'm so glad you found it helpful - it felt pretty life-changing for me too when I first started using them in my garments. The more often you do them - the easier it gets!
You have helped me become a better knitter for sure! This video is on time- as I’m making a swatch for a sweater as we speak!!
This is so helpful and and thank you so much for verbalizing what always feels roguish to me when I disregard ease. I’m very short, “ athletic” (I think that’s a polite way of saying “blocky”) build, but with a 32-34G bust. When I see recommended ease for most popular patterns I frequently just pass them over because the amount of “ease” in the body would make me look like I’ve been shopping in the men’s big & tall store (I’m looking at you, XS Ranunculus). 😂
Using high bust with FBA will definitely help with proper sizing.
This is like a revelation! Thank you so much, I'm a busty woman but I have a small frame, and it never occurred to me to measure my upper bust, so I have a number of garments where the neckline and shoulders are too big. Looking forward to the next couple of episodes 😁
I felt exactly the same when I first discovered this information!
I use my tape measure and measure across my back, side, arms,front armpit to waist... write ✍️ down
Hi, good video. I am into socks at present, but when I am ready to take on tops, I will certainly revisit this video.
I love the comment, "wear what makes you feel confident". Your explanations are so clear and really helped me.
Just found you, I don’t think I have knitted a sweater that I have been 100% happy. Thank you
Welcome! So glad you found the channel and I hope you find the videos helpful. ❤️
Have needed this so badly - never heard of high breast. Thanks!
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you so much! I wish I'd discovered your videos earlier. I've been knitting to my full bust size and the sweaters have engulfed me as otherwise I'm petite, narrow shoulders, etc. Your explanations are excellent. I look forward to watching other videos.
You are welcome! I felt exactly the same when I finally discovered how important that upper chest measurement was when choosing a sweater size!
Thank you so much for explaining this so clearly. I have a 10" difference between my upper bust and full bust and have NEVER been able to knit a sweater that fit. Can't wait to see the rest of this series.
I'm glad you're here and finding it useful!
Hope answers come on this topic , I do get /understand the upper bust measurement being your frame and how to have nicely fitted shoulders but wondering if looking for patterns with EASE is the answer , if they have been adjusted for ease in the bust area.
Like your example , would 10 " of positive ease fit just right ? I would hardly think when they say 10" of positive ease would be at the shoulder, or at least hoping this is closer to an answer for women above C cups .
So far bust shaping and darts I have done just kept garment from pulling up at the front , doesn't make any extra room , that seems like that would be a larger stitch count .
@@NYKnitter It really depends on how you want the garment to fit. I like a lot of my garments to have just a touch of negative ease at the full bust. If I just added more positive ease the garment starts to get oversized all over. That can work if I want an oversized garment but sometimes I don't - that's when bust darts are really helpful. I could have made that more clear in the video (and I'll be sure to add it to my notes for the bust darts video).
Same for the original comment - she has a 10" difference between her high chest and full bust. If she chose a size that gave her 10" of positive ease it would probably fit okay across the bust but might be more positive ease than she wants for the rest of the garment. Instead, she could choose something more close-fitting and use bust darts instead of all that extra ease. Does that make sense?
@@NerdyKnitting Yes makes sense so when a designer says positive ease it is applied all over then ? Adding fullness at the front (short rows ) by allowing extra rows for bust to use up, does help some what so the bust does not pull up everything higher in front vs back that hangs flat. I am more fortunate than the original poster I was replying to that the difference between upper bust and fullest part being 10" This sounded tricky . So perhaps positive ease if it is all over is not the solution .
I am with you , I don't mind gentle negative ease at the bust but if upper bust is 34 - 36 " and her shoulders are in proportion with that sounds tricky with her full bust line being 44-46 .
Looking forward to seeing more on this topic, I have knitted a total of 2 sweaters so I have a long way to go as far as having any experience. Need some time to play around with what works . I have an appreciation for any insight casts like your's give.
@@NYKnitter When a designer says X" positive ease - they mean at the point of the full bust. They can change the amount of ease in other locations (like adding waist shaping) or it might be the same amount for the whole body - like a straight body with no shaping (which actually translates into MORE ease at the waist if your waist is smaller than your full bust).
And you're absolutely right - the bigger the difference between the high chest and full chest the trickier it gets. Added ease can help but only up to a point or if you like really oversized, boxy sweaters.
This was EXCELLENT! I really liked your point about measuring your favorite wardrobe items. That's where I started and it really helped me even in choosing what to knit. I may like a pattern but that doesn't mean I should knit it for myself if I won't feel comfortable in it.
Great point, Lori! There are many patterns I think look fabulous but know I wouldn't like the way they look on my body.
Thanks a lot for such a useful video! 🙏
Wow 🤯 so this is why my sweaters don’t fit as I wished!! Thank you ❤❤❤❤❤
You're so welcome!
Looking forward to the rest of the series. I need these! Thank you 👍🏾😊
You are so welcome!
I am finding that the term "size inclusive" refers to offering a large number of sizes in larger sizes. I am 5'1", but have long arms and legs, and about 100 pounds. Knitting a sweater that is 39" at the bust for an XS will look ridiculous on me. Patterns for children don't have the variety of adult sizes. Add to that the issue I found with Superwash wool; when I blocked my Flax sweater, I had to "mush" it together to get the right measurements. It's one thing to "mush" a 4 x 4" gauge swatch, and another to "mush" an entire sweater that grew like those bath dinosaurs you get for your children. I frogged my Flax sweater and am reknitting it the S rather than SM size, and using US 6 needles instead of US 8. When it expands upon washing, I hope that I will not have to "mush" it together as much to make it fit.
Thank you so much. Your Informations in this video are very helpful for me. It's the first time I'm knitting a project which has the finished measurements in the pattern.
Glad it was helpful!
AWESOME! AWESOME! AWESOME! exactly what I needed. I will see you in the workshop!❤ Thank you so much Tonia🤗
I'm glad it was helpful!
Thank you for the information. This is what I follow when I sew. It makes sense that knitting is the same. ❤️
good topic !
I'm so glad I found your channel, this is so interesting ! I'm running to watch the one about gauge !
Welcome!
Thank you 👍🏾
Thank you, so much good information!
Hello, your blue top is gorgeous, you look amazing
Thank you! 😌
Brilliant explanation and information. You have helped me so much. Thank you.
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you
You have helped me to understand so much more about the patterns and fitting it to my body size. I always find it it frustrating to understanding what size to knit. Thanks so much.
I'm so glad it was helpful!
I'm preparing to knit my first sweater (Flax). I, just finished my guage swatch, did the pre-block guage, and now waiting for it to dry for the final guage. Thank you for this video 😊
Where have you been all my life!!! Very interesting.. thanks for all you do!
Welcome!
Fantastic video!! Learned so much 🎉
Thank you so much for this series! You are so generous to share your acquired knowledge!! I am looking forward to the modifications part: predictable sweater fit is definitely what I am currently struggling with the most, though I am not a new knitter at all (same in sewing: fit is such a difficult thing to get my mind around). I'm also broad shouldered and get lots of bagginess around my middle and lower back and under armholes.
Since you've asked your audience to let you know which specific parts are puzzling, here's 2 of mine:
1. (for example with my current Jessie M. Diaphanous Raglan, but also in general) When I knit the collar on to a deep neckline, it draws in a lot, and it seems that I can never fully accomodate for this (larger needle, narrower neck band, loose bind off). How to predict or adjust the neckline size beforehand so as to prevent a too tight neckhole when you knit the collar on?
2. (sweaters in general) The back is usually too wide compared to the front, and when I improvising decreases as-I-fit, I end up with disproportional looking garments (under the arms and upper back is baggy, nearing the hips it gets too narrow: it seems like I never have enough length in the garment to fit in quite-a-few-decreases-and-then-some-increases)
For the neckline drawing in too much - maybe pick up MORE stitches than recommended. It's worth trying to see if that works.
If the back is wider than the front there are a few things - pick a smaller size based on your upper bust/torso first of all. That will make it fit better in the upper body (and should avoid the too large arms). Then it's a matter of adding fabric exactly where you need it - using vertical darts by increasing and decreasing (we're discussing that in this week's video) or horizontal darts (which we'll discuss the first week of November) for larger busts (or stomach!). That way you can avoid the excess fabric in the back where it isn't needed.
Another option - if you're knitting flat is to choose a smaller size for the back and a wider size for the front (but knitting them both to the same length) - that way you get the extra fabric in the front where it's needed and not in the back.
Thank you so much for taking the time and advise. I appreciate it! Best wishes from Ireland@@NerdyKnitting
I’m interested in that class.
There's a waiting list you can join - I'll be sending an email when the sign-up page for the course is ready (planning to start in December): toniaknits.com/workshop/
This has been so helpful, thank you!!
Glad it was helpful!
Wow! This was very helpful. I had never heard of the Craft Yarn Council.
The Craft Yarn Council website is FULL of great information and useful charts for knitters (and crocheters too).
So helpful , thank you!
You're so welcome!
This is information knitting nuggets of gold! thank you!!!!!
You are so welcome!
Just found you thank you for all the info will be watching in oct but will check out your other videos 😊
Welcome!
Could you or have you talked about substituting different yarns I can't always afford the yarn that some patterns call for and I hate to buy yarn for substituting and not have it work out I have done that and its frustrating thanks 🙂
In last year's podcast episodes, we talked a lot about different fiber types and I have one video that goes over some of the basics - ruclips.net/video/a90BqFyd1QI/видео.html
I'm hoping to do another series (starting in December) that goes more in-depth on this topic.
Thank you ! I am looking forward to your workshop. When I make swatches I look at the fabric.If I don't like it I do some math and find the size that matches my gauge . I tend to knit yoke sweaters so if I am working with a yarn that might stretch I will wash and block the yoke first before finishing it or use a mohair with the yarn. Not sure if that is the correct way, but seems to work
If it works then it's right for you! I also like to use my gauge and favorite fabric - another great way to modify a pattern.
Thanks!
Thank you for the Super Thanks! 😊
What a fantastic video...thank you for sharing your knowledge! Looking forward to the opportunity of being in your workshop.
I'm so glad you found it helpful!
Thank you for this video. I am confused about choosing a pattern based on my shoulder measurements - to clarift, do you suggest using the bust/chest measurement offered in the pattern that is closest to my shoulder measurement and then adjusting the pattern in areas that need more/less fabric?
You've got it! If you are larger than a B cup (or more than two inches difference between your upper bust and full bust), use your upper bust measurement as your full bust measurement when choosing the appropriate size to knit. That will get you a good fit through the shoulders and, depending on the difference between the upper bust and full bust, you'll have to make adjustments (like bust darts) to accommodate the full bust.
@@NerdyKnitting Thanks so much for clarifying! That's really helpful information.
thank you so much for this video. it makes a whole world of difference on choosing the sizes. you're the best! 🥰
Glad it was helpful!
This was so informative and helpful! Thank you for all the examples, too.
You are so welcome! I'm glad you found it helpful.
A really helpful video, you are such a good teacher and don't go too fast. It's so reassuring to realise that most people have to adjust patterns. I thought it was just me, as I am so short. I'm interested in joining your sweater class starting in January, but I live in the UK, so I hope that it will be possible. Maureen in London, England
I'm so glad the video was helpful! And, yes, the class will be open worldwide since it will be all online. The only thing that might be difficult are the weekly live meetings since I'm in the Eastern timezone in North America but I will plan to take questions before going live for those who won't be able to ask during the livestream.
Ty this information has come at the perfect timing for me…in the past several months my two garments I knitted were both sleeveless but so big by the bust/underarm area, I will be choosing a smaller size for my next project. Ty ❤
That's a common problem - you are not alone! And I'm glad you found the video helpful.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge. I’m new to knitting cardigans and you have answered many of my questions. ❤😊
You are so welcome!
I am a fairly new knitter and find sweaters I love but want to change the way they fit. For example, the ranunculus. It's huge on the model. But I saw it on someone in a podcast and it fit beautifully. The podcast was Knitters Kniche a few episodes ago. How in the world did she do that???
It's all about choosing the amount of positive ease you want - LOTS of positive ease for a really oversized look and LESS positive ease for a more fitted look.
@NerdyKnitting I just don't know how to figure that out. How many stitches to use compared to the instructions.
@@debbiedegayner3312 Measure your bust, decide how much ease you want, and add those two numbers together. Look at the sizes and choose the size that is closest to that number.
Awesome information! When I watch knitting podcasts I get very frustrated when the host explains that they knit the pattern exactly as written. What? You're telling me, at the very least, that your arms and body are the exact same length as written? Who has the exact same measurements in both of these categories, much less all of the others? Every knitter should be making adjustments so the garment fits then properly and to their requirements, not the designer's. Thanks for giving some great advice!
I know! I can't begin to imagine knitting a sweater without making at least a few modifications!
I have a question regarding cardigans. Would you apply the same measurements as you do with a sweater? Would that be the measurement taken from the upper bust? Thank you so much for this video. ❤
Yes, I would still start with the upper bust if there's a large difference between my full bust or if I had broad shoulders and wanted to make sure it fits well through the shoulders. The only difference is the ease - I might want more positive ease depending on how I want the cardigan to fit (especially if I'm planning to wear it as a layering piece and will have other garments on underneath).
Such a helpful video ! Thank you x
Glad it was helpful!
Quite revealing. I love all the details included here. It explains why I re-knit most of my sweaters because I don't like the fit.
I had one sweater that I had to do the first sleeve 5 times because I did not like how it fit or looked. I had a bunch of fabric at the shoulder seam. I finally ended up seaming the underarm together 2 inches, then picking up the stitches.
My guild members make fun of me because I never seem to follow a pattern. 😂
Very helpful! What is the idea of moving stitches, from a smaller back, to the front if you are bustier. Is that done right from the join at the underarm? Is it eased back to an equal number as you approach the waist? Hips? Thank you!
This is usually done with yoke sweaters that are knit in the round. Instead of evenly dividing stitches between the front and back when it's time to separate the front, back, and sleeves, the 'extra' stitches that aren't needed in the back are moved to the front section, which puts more fabric in the front. There's no need to ease anything back as you approach the waist (but you can add waist shaping if you want).
@@NerdyKnitting Thank you so much!
Great advice! I always have struggled with fit issues. My shoulders have me needing a garment that is 2-4 sizes larger than the size that would fit almost everywhere else. I also have to account for larger upper arm measurements. If I make a size that fits bust size then the arms always creep up in the underarm and the shoulders look like I'm wearing a kids' size garment. It's terribly uncomfortable. If I make the size to fit my shoulders and upper arm & yoke depth, then I look like I'm drowning in the rest of the garment. The only solution that has worked for me so far is to work with patterns that are shaped in more of a typical male shaping, but shorten arms and body length. This is fine, but I'd love to be able to make some more feminine styles that actually fit me sometimes. Is there a certain sweater style, raglan, drop shoulder, modified drop, saddle shoulder, that is better suited for broad shoulders? Thanks.
I'm not sure which style would best suit broad shoulders - perhaps a visit to a local store would be in order - you could try on different styles to see which you prefer. And I believe Amy Herzog's book - Knit to Flatter - discusses this (I think - not totally sure!).
As far as knitting more feminine garments it sounds like you could still make similar modifications as you've been doing - choose a size based on your upper bust (which should correspond with a size that will fit your shoulders - as the two measurements are closely related) and then modify to fit the rest of your body.
Omg. So sad 😢
I’ve knitted the body abs tire or the chest 3x because this baby alpaca 100% is so difficult to work with + now the neck is barely going over my head and I’m into the 1 sleeve. I am not going to tear this apart again! This was supposed to be fit my mom’s bday. Hence the torso is barely long enough for me. She’s short. I’ve put a lot of work into this so far and don’t want to te as t it out 😢
What is meant by r front cast on to neck measurement?
If the finished bust measurement for Ranunculus did not include the amount of positive ease intended, then it wouldn't be "finished." It would simply be a body measurement. Or am I going crazy? lol That question was confusing!
Yes - you've got it. The Finished Garment Measurements and Body Measurements are two different things (that often get confused).
This is my mistake always. I make loose jumpers to cover my breasts and to go over my belly. So I knit jumpers too loose which make me look bigger. Lately I've been looking at the finished measurements instead
Yes - I had the same issue until I realized I had to make them a little more fitted in the top and that has made such a big difference.