I must admit, I was skeptical when I saw this. But, as I was running out of ideas, I decided to try this. IT WORKS! Thanks The Motorcycle Boss. A relevant question (at least for me) would be, where are the air bubbles coming from. I have no leaks and have bled the brake once every two or three weeks. My current theory is the brake hose. It is 9 year sold (I just found out Honda recommends replacing the hose every 4 years, my Honda mechanic didn't know either). Have ordered replacement hoses and will see when they arrive if the problem goes away. Thanks again.
Thanks for the comment! Glad you had a good result. I think you are on the right path. Make sure you get new crush washers as well. Good chance that will fix the issue. If not, you can see if the master cylinder piston seals are good. Lmk how it goes. I'm all-ears.
@@TheMotorcycleBoss BTW, I have asked ChatGPT (OpenAI project) about bubbles in a brake system. AI agrees with you. I quote "In a closed hydraulic system like a car brake system, it is possible that the air bubbles could break up into smaller bubbles as the pressure is increased. This can occur due to the increase in the hydrostatic pressure within the system, which can cause the air bubbles to become unstable and break up into smaller bubbles. However, this is not always the case, and the behavior of the air bubbles can depend on a variety of factors such as the size and shape of the bubbles, the viscosity of the fluid, and the rate at which the pressure is increased."
@@EmadKhader yes. This is 100% correct. That's why we do the zip tie trick - in order to compress the bubbles and thus encouraging them to float to the master cylinder. I noticed that while the zip tie is on, flicking the brake lines periodically may help get more air out. I noticed an stiffer lever when I do this. Chat gpt is so cool. Heard a lot about it
I always carry elastic bands on me to do this every so often, like once a month when I park up I will put them round one of the levers overnight. PS: You said the bubbles reduce in size. That isn't exactly what happens.... They break down into smaller bubbles by division. The same volume of air is still there, it's just broken up into smaller bubbles under pressure, where they are more likely to float upwards as they have less surface friction individually.
Glad to hear that you are aware of this trick as well. Whenever I tell people this trick they always think I'm blowing smoke. Thanks for taking the time to write. Stay safe out there bro.
Im due for a brake flush and pads and being home now with all thats going on ill give this a shot to see how it works out. I like to flush my brakes at the beginning of every new season just good practice i feel and costs $10 and a hour of your time. But im a little picky about things i change my plugs every season also which is not necessary but that just me. Keep up the videos bro.
Awesome thanks. I'm doing what I can to put these vids up for you guys. I hope you are staying safe. Lmk how this tip works for you. Doing your maintenance so frequently isn't a problem. Just be careful.
IT FREAKING WORKEDDDDD!! went to bleed my brakes and the mechanic was using some suction to suck out the air and my brakes were spongy which required me to squeeze all the way to apply them. Appreciate such "hacks". But im still wondering why will the "air bubbles" not "come up" even after using the brakes and have to do cable tie it overnight. In any case, thanks for this ! :) Stay safe and ride safe ! Cheers!
Thanks! Here is my theory: Usually when you use your brakes, we don't keep them pressed for small spurts at a time and the air bubbles tend to cling to the hose walls.. When pressure is applied, the air bubbles in the lines become smaller and detach from the inner walls. But we need to give them time in that state to float. Thus keeping the pressure overnight. I'm glad to hear this trick worked. If the sponginess comes back after a little while, you still have air you need to purge from the system. Just remember that the air will alway congregate at the highest point of your hydraulic ststem. A few weeks ago, my rear brake would still be spongy after bleeding it time and time again. I saw a high-point in my brake like that the air would most-likely live. I had to detatch my caliper and raise the caliper over the master cylinder then bleed. Got all the air out! I hope all your future projects go well. Ride safe!
Bleed my brake in a workshop and this issues occurred. Used this technique and left it overnight for about 8 hours issues have improved, hopefully it will fully fix it the next time I try. Thanks for the tips!
I'm glad it helped at least a little. Usually, if the problem persists, you still have too much air trapped in the system. Sometimes you have to detach the caliper and move it around while bleeding to get out any trapped air. It sucks to do but will almost guarantee a proper bleed. Hope it goes well for you!
Late to this video but willing to give it a shot. Had my brakes flushed late sep 2023 (2015 zx6r) end of riding for me in upstate NY. Had air in line fixed and then rode 2 more times everything was fine before putting it away for winter. Last week was in garage and just doing stuff took a look over the bike and brake pressure gone. Hoping this is a fix, just 22 hours till I know. Cheers
@@TheGuyWhoAsked72 Not really, worked for less than a day. Wound up having to go back to the dealer and had them re-bleed but no charge. I will try it as a winter thing though.
I installed a new 2 pot caliper, brake hose still using the stock brake master and somehow we cannot make the brake lever like it was before. Luckily i saw this hack and it works! Thanks mate!
This fixed my problem after replacing my fluids and bleeding it sever times is still feels like sponge. Did tie wrap my brakes overnight and after 12hours it feels solid now. Little play on my levers.
Glad it helped! If your brakes get spongy again, they you have air trapped somewhere in there. You may have to remove the caliper and move it around while bleeding to get the trapped air out. Hopefully it doesn't come back
Hint to avoid using a one time zip tie? If yu have scraps of insulated copper wire (solid is better than stranded) simply wrap the wire around it and twist to hold in place! Scaps of wire like this can be use many many many times for various similar uses
i left it on there for 2 days because i completely forgot about it my wife came in from the garage and asked why was it a zip tie on the bike i remembered then it did work thank you
The best way to do this is to tie the lever then when you go to break the tie instead hold it tight then break the bolt on the master cylinders line and keep the lever held and tighten it back up then release the lever, that will purge any left over air bubbles that might of gotten trapped into the master cylinder as well.
Thanks for your comment! Changed my calipers due to leaks, bled it and my brake is super spongy! Soon as I saw master cylinder line, I realized I didn't bleed the air out from up top, silly me.. (that's why you don't leave things for weeks on end) Brake feels so much better now!
Next time you comment, please make use of punctuation and periods, as necessary. This comment of yours above is like taking a piss after 5 beers -no stopping out until the end.
No problem! I hope it works well for you. It's just a simple trick of the trade. I hope this was enough to earn you as a subscriber and I look forward to hearing from you in my future videos. Ride safe! Cheers!
Thank you for a nice tip. Really appreciate making that video. One comment though, not sure if those spikes on a windshield are real but taking those off might save a pedestrian a hole in a head... if you ever hit one. i only put that comment because i found your video useful and you explanations clear :-)
@@TheMotorcycleBoss Thanks, Boss. I really hope this works. Don't know why my rear brakes are spongy. New pads, lines, res, fluid, zerk...new everything.
@@joruckus Typically when you replace everything, you will still have trapped air in a lower spot in the calipers. That would bean that you have to unmount the caliper(s) and twist and turn them while you bleed to force any air bubbles to the highest point of the caliper which should be the bleed valve. This also happens in brake lines if there is a high spot in the line. Air will stay lodged up there until you raise the caliper higher than the line. A lot of extra work but it's common for rear brakes unfortunately. If the trick in the video doesn't help you, try what I suggested then do the ratchetstrap thing after you got a firm pressure. Hope this helps! Thanks for the comment!
Just got my bike back after changing the brake lines and my front brake is very spongy and weak, I will try this tonight and will let you know if it fixed the problem, however I think i might have to bleed the system if that doesn't help
Hey! I understand that frustration. I've been there before. If you didn't gravity bleed first, you may run into the issue you are talking about. Just be sure to bleed the master cylinder first before the rest of the system. Thanks for taking the time to comment. I hope your project goes well. Good luck and I'm looking forward to hearing what fixes it for you.
Yes. You can. Although I've had mixed results due to the fact that the rear brake lines have a hump to account for the swingarm movement. The hump is sometimes higher than the master cylinder and any air bubbles that accumulate using this trick will always float to the highest point in the system. So, if you can keep the master cylinder at the highest part of the system and apply pressure to the lines overnight, that is probably the best way to get similar results to the front brake. Ride safe!
On the lever itself, you may have an adjuster that looks like a small wheel with numbers. Not all bikes have this however. If yours does not have that, your only other option would be to order aftermarket brake levers with that adjuster. Hope this helps! Good luck!
It sounds like you still have air trapped in your system. I would try performing a reverse bleed with quality break fluid like Bel-Ray. Reverse bleed then do conventional bleeding.
If the issue persists, that means you have too much air still trapped in your lines or in your caliper. Sometimes you have to remove your caliper and move it around while you bleed. Air will get trapped in pockets inside the brake line or caliper that you can't get out without doing this. Remember that the air pockets will always float to the highest point in the system. But if there is an aggressive bend or pocket, they can get stuck. I know having to do this sucks but it needs to be done if your brakes keep getting mushy.
After installing new RCB caliper, ABS motor pump making noise even at low speed braking and jamming the brake liver when doing emergency braking. Any solution?
have just done this tonight as my 05 1000rr blade has been sitting for over a month thanks to a stuffed stator and when i used her tonight the front was squishy so trying this before a bleed and go from there
@@TheMotorcycleBoss cheers and it worked amazingly i got almost full normal motion and lock back haha still might do a full bleed the fluid is over a year old
I just replaced my brake lines on my bike for the first time the other day. I thought I had your issue but turns out I just needed to keep bleeding them a bit longer. When you get to the point where all you see is pure bake fluid coming out of the calipers, give the lever another 20-30 squeezes. Then tighten everything up. Keep the master cylinder lid open and start pumping again. If you had the issue I did, you'll start to see really tiny bubbles coming out of the master cylinder. Just keep pumping and tapping various parts of the brake lines until you can't really see any bubbles at all anymore. Some people even just tap the lever with your palm rather than fully pumping it. It's the vibrations that get all the air out, not necessarily the pumping of the lever. Then, do what is shown in this video and the next day you'll be golden.
I took mine to the shop, if you have gsxr 2007 or something close, replace your master cylinder, chances are theres a buildup in there that cant be fixed other than replace.
are u sure you are doing it correctly ? I believe you let air in the system from the master cylinder by not adding brake fluid before the reservoir goes empty. If there is a lot of air in the system it will take a while to get a pressure ! I recently did a caliper rebuilt and it took almost 2 bottles
Rear brakes usually have a hump in the brake line. Air will like to settle at the highest point in a brake system. Sometimes, i have to detatch my caliper, hold it above my master cylinder, then bleed out the air. It's an unfortunate thing to do but that should fix your problem assuming the fluid isn't bypassing your master cylinder. I hope this helps! Good luck with the project and ride safe! Cheers!
Hi there mate got a kx85 rear brake is really soft Iv bled the rear brake but it still won’t work as it when pressing the rear brake it won’t stop the wheel at all. Any suggestions?
Hey! Thanks for asking. It sounds like you still have air in your system or your master cylinder seal is allowing bypass. Most likely, you still have air in the system. I would recommend doing a gravity bleed, then hand bleeding. Be certain to raise the front of the bike to make the caliper the lowest point in the rear brake system. Then use a ziptie or bungie cords or a weight to weigh down the brake lever and leave it overnight to help get the remaining air out of the system. I hope this helps you. Good luck.
Make sure all fasteners of your brake system are tightened to spec, ensure that your rubber bladder in your brake reservoir doesn't have any tears or punctures; make sure your brake fluid is completely bled out with fresh brake fluid every 2 years.
great trick, thank you! i did this to my 07 cbr600 and it worked. however, every 4~5 days the front brake becomes noticeably spongy again from a really strong feel after a good bleeding with air bubbles coming front the upper bleeding port near the reservoir, yes, every 4~5 days, no leaking is identified. this is a big mystery for me. anybody could give me any hint? thank you very much!
I had the same on my 1000SX, i was losing brake pressure and had a very spongy lever after the bike was sitting for a week or two. I had to bleed the master cylinder (bleed nipple up near the reservoir) of air that had found it's way in to the system to get decent pressure back again. Even after doing that the brake lever still had a spongy feel to it. I ended up rebuilding the master cylinder today and the front brake lever is now firm. I won't know if it's solved my issue completely for another couple of weeks though, but the feel at the lever right now has greatly improved.
@@jn1k203 thank you very much for your information. My guess this issue is most likely coming from the master cylinder o-ring seals. I am about to replace the old o-rings and I will let you know how they work. Cheers from canada
@@ossiclesrecordingstudio3307 Update- it's been about 2 weeks since master cylinder rebuild, my bike has been sitting unused in that time and the front brake is still firm and holding pressure as it should. No air has migrated into the master cylinder, and it now bleeds free of air again. I only replaced the 2 seals, spring and circlip as the kit i purchased (All Balls Racing) for $39.95 AUD delivered doesn't come with the piston. I went for a 20km test ride today and and am confident that the issue is now sorted. Good luck with your CBR.
@@jn1k203 Update- Now I got the same result just like yours for 10 days, a firm front brake, the issue gone completely. I replaced all the master cylinder components not only two rubber seals even I know it was unlikely anything wrong with the piston. I also compared the old seals with the new ones and I could feel old ones were kinda stiff. Thanks buddy!
I just rebuilt Mt Master cylinder and rebuilt my calibers and put new brakes and braided brake lines so I had a completely dry system. I have tried a numatic brake bleeder and I've tried hand pumping and I've tried this and at first I couldn't get no lever at all but after I let it sit over night with zip tie I finally have a little resistance but it's still spongy. Last night I tried to zip tie it again over night so hopefully I'll get more air out.. my rear brakes I've done same thing but I got solid brake right away.
ive been looking, this video may helped, i bleed the system.. 2018 ninja, previouse owner droped it, i got new rear master cyl. (and other parts) i cleaned it, it presses in. but doesn't decompress, when i let off the breaks... hints? help?
There is a spring that is supposed to return the pedal/lever to its original position. Make sure the pedal has clearance and there is a return spring present
Trying this now. I bled my brakes and still spongy. Next I bled it from the master cylinder connection. Still spongy. I'll try this and if need be re-bleed the brakes again.
@@TheMotorcycleBoss its a bike that was sitting for a while the clutch and rear brakes work but the handlebar brakes wont close(wont release from open opsition), its a k3 gsx
@@camronmoz2662 is your brake fluid level extremely high? Apply pressure to your lever then slowly crack your brake bleed nipple then tighten it back up before the lever is pulled all the way. Does the lever move when you do that? Are the brakes siezed on the rotor?
I'm trying this... I'll report back tomorrow. That being said, I've had "spongy" brakes, but after 100 miles they seem to get the sponge out of them... (BUT be careful that you do have brakes during that 100 miles!) Thanks
Your best bet is to remove the whole caliper with something between the brake pads and raise the caliper above the master cylinder then bleed them the traditional way.
Usually that is the symptom of hydraulic lock caused by too much fluid. But be sure to check for any obstructions to your brake lever. I hope this helps. If you find out what it is, please tell me about it. Thanks for commenting and ride safe! Cheers!
Thanks! Funny thing is, I have the ziptie on my bike as we speak. A last second check before a ride tomorrow. I hope it works for you. Good luck and stay safe!
It means you still have air trapped in your lines or caliper. Worst case is your master cylinder seal is allowing brake fluid to bypass. But most likely you just still have too much air you need to get out
Helpful video but i have question i have changed my brakepads of front but still lever is not coming to hard position the adjustment of lever is on 5th point.brake is good but takes to press more i use hard lever can u help me out .
Hey! Thanks for reaching out. Changing brake pads will not do anything regarding fixing a spongy brake lever. A spongy brake is commonly caused by having air in your brake lines. You need to perform a procedure called "brake bleeding". This will purge the air out of your lines and if done correctly, will return your brakes back to a firm feeling. I have a video covering how to bleed brakes if you would like to check it out. I hope this helps! Ride safe and I hope you subscribed! Cheers!
@@asimprince8968 Even professionals leave air in the brakes pretty often unfortunately. Rebuilding the master cylinder might help but the more likely cause is air in the system or worn out rubber brake lines. Upgrading to steel-braided brake lines has the potential to dramatically increase brake feel. If you are interested in either route, I have videos for both rebuilding the master cylinder as well as upgrading to steel-braided lines.
Yeah, that's pretty weak shiet there. A year and half because she had her ears peirced? Bruh wtf. smdh. This was 3 years ago, so hopefully he had developed a backbone and testicles by now.
I must admit, I was skeptical when I saw this. But, as I was running out of ideas, I decided to try this. IT WORKS! Thanks The Motorcycle Boss.
A relevant question (at least for me) would be, where are the air bubbles coming from. I have no leaks and have bled the brake once every two or three weeks. My current theory is the brake hose. It is 9 year sold (I just found out Honda recommends replacing the hose every 4 years, my Honda mechanic didn't know either). Have ordered replacement hoses and will see when they arrive if the problem goes away.
Thanks again.
Thanks for the comment! Glad you had a good result. I think you are on the right path. Make sure you get new crush washers as well. Good chance that will fix the issue. If not, you can see if the master cylinder piston seals are good. Lmk how it goes. I'm all-ears.
@@TheMotorcycleBoss BTW, I have asked ChatGPT (OpenAI project) about bubbles in a brake system. AI agrees with you. I quote "In a closed hydraulic system like a car brake system, it is possible that the air bubbles could break up into smaller bubbles as the pressure is increased. This can occur due to the increase in the hydrostatic pressure within the system, which can cause the air bubbles to become unstable and break up into smaller bubbles. However, this is not always the case, and the behavior of the air bubbles can depend on a variety of factors such as the size and shape of the bubbles, the viscosity of the fluid, and the rate at which the pressure is increased."
@@EmadKhader yes. This is 100% correct. That's why we do the zip tie trick - in order to compress the bubbles and thus encouraging them to float to the master cylinder. I noticed that while the zip tie is on, flicking the brake lines periodically may help get more air out. I noticed an stiffer lever when I do this. Chat gpt is so cool. Heard a lot about it
I always carry elastic bands on me to do this every so often, like once a month when I park up I will put them round one of the levers overnight.
PS: You said the bubbles reduce in size. That isn't exactly what happens.... They break down into smaller bubbles by division. The same volume of air is still there, it's just broken up into smaller bubbles under pressure, where they are more likely to float upwards as they have less surface friction individually.
Glad to hear that you are aware of this trick as well. Whenever I tell people this trick they always think I'm blowing smoke. Thanks for taking the time to write. Stay safe out there bro.
Im due for a brake flush and pads and being home now with all thats going on ill give this a shot to see how it works out. I like to flush my brakes at the beginning of every new season just good practice i feel and costs $10 and a hour of your time. But im a little picky about things i change my plugs every season also which is not necessary but that just me. Keep up the videos bro.
Awesome thanks. I'm doing what I can to put these vids up for you guys. I hope you are staying safe. Lmk how this tip works for you. Doing your maintenance so frequently isn't a problem. Just be careful.
Worked a treat on my r1m thankyou for making the video👍
Not a problem. Glad to help! Sweet bike btw. Hope This was enough to earn you as a subscriber! Ride safe!
IT FREAKING WORKEDDDDD!! went to bleed my brakes and the mechanic was using some suction to suck out the air and my brakes were spongy which required me to squeeze all the way to apply them.
Appreciate such "hacks". But im still wondering why will the "air bubbles" not "come up" even after using the brakes and have to do cable tie it overnight.
In any case, thanks for this ! :)
Stay safe and ride safe ! Cheers!
Thanks! Here is my theory: Usually when you use your brakes, we don't keep them pressed for small spurts at a time and the air bubbles tend to cling to the hose walls.. When pressure is applied, the air bubbles in the lines become smaller and detach from the inner walls. But we need to give them time in that state to float. Thus keeping the pressure overnight.
I'm glad to hear this trick worked. If the sponginess comes back after a little while, you still have air you need to purge from the system. Just remember that the air will alway congregate at the highest point of your hydraulic ststem.
A few weeks ago, my rear brake would still be spongy after bleeding it time and time again. I saw a high-point in my brake like that the air would most-likely live. I had to detatch my caliper and raise the caliper over the master cylinder then bleed. Got all the air out!
I hope all your future projects go well. Ride safe!
Bleed my brake in a workshop and this issues occurred. Used this technique and left it overnight for about 8 hours issues have improved, hopefully it will fully fix it the next time I try. Thanks for the tips!
I'm glad it helped at least a little. Usually, if the problem persists, you still have too much air trapped in the system. Sometimes you have to detach the caliper and move it around while bleeding to get out any trapped air. It sucks to do but will almost guarantee a proper bleed. Hope it goes well for you!
I tried this on my HD XL1200. Works great! Thanks!
Late to this video but willing to give it a shot. Had my brakes flushed late sep 2023 (2015 zx6r) end of riding for me in upstate NY. Had air in line fixed and then rode 2 more times everything was fine before putting it away for winter. Last week was in garage and just doing stuff took a look over the bike and brake pressure gone. Hoping this is a fix, just 22 hours till I know. Cheers
Did it work?
@@TheGuyWhoAsked72 Not really, worked for less than a day. Wound up having to go back to the dealer and had them re-bleed but no charge. I will try it as a winter thing though.
@@djrichsaracino2554darn
usually when this trick doesn't work, that means there is too much air trapped in the system and a more thorough bleeding is required.
I installed a new 2 pot caliper, brake hose still using the stock brake master and somehow we cannot make the brake lever like it was before. Luckily i saw this hack and it works! Thanks mate!
Nice! I'm glad it worked! Great job on the project!
This fixed my problem after replacing my fluids and bleeding it sever times is still feels like sponge. Did tie wrap my brakes overnight and after 12hours it feels solid now. Little play on my levers.
Glad it helped! If your brakes get spongy again, they you have air trapped somewhere in there. You may have to remove the caliper and move it around while bleeding to get the trapped air out. Hopefully it doesn't come back
Thanks for this. I just put the zip tie on. I'll comment again and let you know if it works. I feel confident about it.
Did it work?
@@BB82739 Yes, it worked. Forgot i made that comment lol.
Hint to avoid using a one time zip tie? If yu have scraps of insulated copper wire (solid is better than stranded) simply wrap the wire around it and twist to hold in place! Scaps of wire like this can be use many many many times for various similar uses
You giving a tip how to save on $0.0003 item?
It actually works! Thanks mate!
No problem. Glad to hear it worked out! Ride safe!
I use a double sided velcro strap. It's quick, requires no tools, and is reuseable.
i left it on there for 2 days because i completely forgot about it my wife came in from the garage and asked why was it a zip tie on the bike i remembered then it did work thank you
XD Great to hear. Glad it worked.
The best way to do this is to tie the lever then when you go to break the tie instead hold it tight then break the bolt on the master cylinders line and keep the lever held and tighten it back up then release the lever, that will purge any left over air bubbles that might of gotten trapped into the master cylinder as well.
I agree. But not everyone has the time. This is just an easy fix for those not wanting to bleed at all.
Thanks for your comment! Changed my calipers due to leaks, bled it and my brake is super spongy! Soon as I saw master cylinder line, I realized I didn't bleed the air out from up top, silly me.. (that's why you don't leave things for weeks on end) Brake feels so much better now!
@TheMotorcycleBoss Not everyone has the time? You're talking about an 8 hour process but there's no time for an additional 30 seconds?
Next time you comment, please make use of punctuation and periods, as necessary. This comment of yours above is like taking a piss after 5 beers -no stopping out until the end.
@@newsupdates3622 No thank you, I'm not in class I'm making a comment on RUclips read it or don't idgas. 😂
After leaving the lever or pedal overnight, does the master cylinder need to be opened to release trapped air?
No.
Hell yea! This did improve the feel. Thanks for the training video bro. Ride safe
Glad to hear! No problem. Thanks! Ride safe as well.
Thanks it works like magic!
Glad to hear! Happy to help!
Me: so why are you selling the bike
Him: well my gf got her ear pierced a year ago so I haven’t been able to ride
What you don't have to take anything off or adjust something..
Nice one thank you!
No problem! I hope it works well for you. It's just a simple trick of the trade. I hope this was enough to earn you as a subscriber and I look forward to hearing from you in my future videos. Ride safe! Cheers!
Thank you for a nice tip. Really appreciate making that video.
One comment though, not sure if those spikes on a windshield are real but taking those off might save a pedestrian a hole in a head... if you ever hit one.
i only put that comment because i found your video useful and you explanations clear :-)
Cool tip. How do you keep the rear brake compressed over night?
Nevermind. I wedged a rag between the lever and bracket. I'll check back in a couple days to see if this works lol.
Stacking something heavy on it is what I do. But you could also ratchetstrap it to the floor somehow.
@@TheMotorcycleBoss Thanks, Boss. I really hope this works. Don't know why my rear brakes are spongy. New pads, lines, res, fluid, zerk...new everything.
@@joruckus Typically when you replace everything, you will still have trapped air in a lower spot in the calipers. That would bean that you have to unmount the caliper(s) and twist and turn them while you bleed to force any air bubbles to the highest point of the caliper which should be the bleed valve.
This also happens in brake lines if there is a high spot in the line. Air will stay lodged up there until you raise the caliper higher than the line. A lot of extra work but it's common for rear brakes unfortunately.
If the trick in the video doesn't help you, try what I suggested then do the ratchetstrap thing after you got a firm pressure. Hope this helps! Thanks for the comment!
@@TheMotorcycleBoss brotha, it worked! It's like a brand new bike! Thanks, again!
Thanks 🎉
Do I take off the reservoir cap ?
@@awwtofu5862 no
Just got my bike back after changing the brake lines and my front brake is very spongy and weak, I will try this tonight and will let you know if it fixed the problem, however I think i might have to bleed the system if that doesn't help
Hey! I understand that frustration. I've been there before. If you didn't gravity bleed first, you may run into the issue you are talking about. Just be sure to bleed the master cylinder first before the rest of the system. Thanks for taking the time to comment. I hope your project goes well. Good luck and I'm looking forward to hearing what fixes it for you.
So did it work?
@@moslimislam5714 It did a little bit, but I did have to bleed the brakes anyway.
It works🙋🏻♂️
Can we do this to the rear brakes as well ?
Yes. You can. Although I've had mixed results due to the fact that the rear brake lines have a hump to account for the swingarm movement. The hump is sometimes higher than the master cylinder and any air bubbles that accumulate using this trick will always float to the highest point in the system. So, if you can keep the master cylinder at the highest part of the system and apply pressure to the lines overnight, that is probably the best way to get similar results to the front brake. Ride safe!
How do i adjust the front brake lever if i want it to get a little closer to my hand if i like have small hand?
On the lever itself, you may have an adjuster that looks like a small wheel with numbers. Not all bikes have this however. If yours does not have that, your only other option would be to order aftermarket brake levers with that adjuster. Hope this helps! Good luck!
I tried this, it only temporarily works but, goes back to its old way next day on mine.
It sounds like you still have air trapped in your system. I would try performing a reverse bleed with quality break fluid like Bel-Ray. Reverse bleed then do conventional bleeding.
After few days the same issue repeating, what is the permanent solution for this issue..??
If the issue persists, that means you have too much air still trapped in your lines or in your caliper. Sometimes you have to remove your caliper and move it around while you bleed. Air will get trapped in pockets inside the brake line or caliper that you can't get out without doing this. Remember that the air pockets will always float to the highest point in the system. But if there is an aggressive bend or pocket, they can get stuck. I know having to do this sucks but it needs to be done if your brakes keep getting mushy.
what if the problem is that my brake lever feels too tight?
Make sure your master cylinder's return hole isn't clogged. Interesting issue but that's where i would look
After installing new RCB caliper, ABS motor pump making noise even
at low speed braking and jamming the brake liver when doing
emergency braking. Any solution?
Have to try this today!
Did it work?
have just done this tonight as my 05 1000rr blade has been sitting for over a month thanks to a stuffed stator and when i used her tonight the front was squishy so trying this before a bleed and go from there
Good luck! Nice bike!
@@TheMotorcycleBoss cheers and it worked amazingly i got almost full normal motion and lock back haha still might do a full bleed the fluid is over a year old
@@carlhughes1662 glad the tip was able to help! If you feel it needs the bleed, go for it! Better to do it sooner rather than later.
@@TheMotorcycleBoss thats it im currently watching ur vid on how to rebuild the master cylinder lol
@@carlhughes1662 sweet! I hope it is helpful as well. I need go bleed my rear brake as we speak. I'm so lazy lol
What if I'm getting 0 pressure after bleeding? I went through 2 bottles and it's not getting firm at all.
Same did you find a way to fix it ?
I did the ziptie method too and still spongy?
I just replaced my brake lines on my bike for the first time the other day. I thought I had your issue but turns out I just needed to keep bleeding them a bit longer. When you get to the point where all you see is pure bake fluid coming out of the calipers, give the lever another 20-30 squeezes. Then tighten everything up. Keep the master cylinder lid open and start pumping again. If you had the issue I did, you'll start to see really tiny bubbles coming out of the master cylinder. Just keep pumping and tapping various parts of the brake lines until you can't really see any bubbles at all anymore. Some people even just tap the lever with your palm rather than fully pumping it. It's the vibrations that get all the air out, not necessarily the pumping of the lever. Then, do what is shown in this video and the next day you'll be golden.
I took mine to the shop, if you have gsxr 2007 or something close, replace your master cylinder, chances are theres a buildup in there that cant be fixed other than replace.
are u sure you are doing it correctly ? I believe you let air in the system from the master cylinder by not adding brake fluid before the reservoir goes empty. If there is a lot of air in the system it will take a while to get a pressure ! I recently did a caliper rebuilt and it took almost 2 bottles
My rear brake decided to take a vacation, does this trick work on it also? Changed the fluid but still dead. Yamaha r6 rj09
Rear brakes usually have a hump in the brake line. Air will like to settle at the highest point in a brake system. Sometimes, i have to detatch my caliper, hold it above my master cylinder, then bleed out the air. It's an unfortunate thing to do but that should fix your problem assuming the fluid isn't bypassing your master cylinder. I hope this helps! Good luck with the project and ride safe! Cheers!
Thanks dude I’m going to try this right now ride safe 🏍❤️
Awesome! Good luck! Let me know how it goes! I hope it works well for you. Cheers!
do i leave the leave the lid of the reservoir ?
No
Hi there mate got a kx85 rear brake is really soft Iv bled the rear brake but it still won’t work as it when pressing the rear brake it won’t stop the wheel at all. Any suggestions?
Hey! Thanks for asking. It sounds like you still have air in your system or your master cylinder seal is allowing bypass. Most likely, you still have air in the system. I would recommend doing a gravity bleed, then hand bleeding. Be certain to raise the front of the bike to make the caliper the lowest point in the rear brake system. Then use a ziptie or bungie cords or a weight to weigh down the brake lever and leave it overnight to help get the remaining air out of the system. I hope this helps you. Good luck.
You’re great thanks saved my bacon .
Glad I could help!
question. How does an ear piercing take a year and a half to heal?
Double helix: it's common for it to take forever because of the spot. Some people report a 3 year healing window in some cases
@@TheMotorcycleBoss Quick fix, remove it.
how to prevent air from going into the system? i have this problem with my brake all the time
Make sure all fasteners of your brake system are tightened to spec, ensure that your rubber bladder in your brake reservoir doesn't have any tears or punctures; make sure your brake fluid is completely bled out with fresh brake fluid every 2 years.
What are those spikes called on the front of your bike? Also, where did you get them from?
They are called fairing/windshield spikes. Glad you like them! You can get them here! amzn.to/3tyDjrs
Thank you!!
Thanks❤
great trick, thank you! i did this to my 07 cbr600 and it worked.
however, every 4~5 days the front brake becomes noticeably spongy again from a really strong feel after a good bleeding with air bubbles coming front the upper bleeding port near the reservoir,
yes, every 4~5 days, no leaking is identified.
this is a big mystery for me.
anybody could give me any hint? thank you very much!
I had the same on my 1000SX, i was losing brake pressure and had a very spongy lever after the bike was sitting for a week or two.
I had to bleed the master cylinder (bleed nipple up near the reservoir) of air that had found it's way in to the system to get decent pressure back again.
Even after doing that the brake lever still had a spongy feel to it.
I ended up rebuilding the master cylinder today and the front brake lever is now firm.
I won't know if it's solved my issue completely for another couple of weeks though, but the feel at the lever right now has greatly improved.
@@jn1k203 thank you very much for your information. My guess this issue is most likely coming from the master cylinder o-ring seals. I am about to replace the old o-rings and I will let you know how they work. Cheers from canada
@@ossiclesrecordingstudio3307 Update- it's been about 2 weeks since master cylinder rebuild, my bike has been sitting unused in that time and the front brake is still firm and holding pressure as it should.
No air has migrated into the master cylinder, and it now bleeds free of air again.
I only replaced the 2 seals, spring and circlip as the kit i purchased (All Balls Racing) for $39.95 AUD delivered doesn't come with the piston.
I went for a 20km test ride today and and am confident that the issue is now sorted.
Good luck with your CBR.
@@jn1k203 Update- Now I got the same result just like yours for 10 days, a firm front brake, the issue gone completely. I replaced all the master cylinder components not only two rubber seals even I know it was unlikely anything wrong with the piston. I also compared the old seals with the new ones and I could feel old ones were kinda stiff. Thanks buddy!
Can you do one for rear breaks please.
You have a spongy rear brake? What bike do you have?
The Motorcycle Boss 300 ninja, I was thinking it’s the rotors
Sandwiches and maybe a coffee?
I bled my rear on an 07 cbr 600 and it gets spongy again in a week or 2. Wonder if I have a bad part
@@FUCCOD most likely. Worth checking the bleed nipple on the caliper as they often leak
I just rebuilt Mt Master cylinder and rebuilt my calibers and put new brakes and braided brake lines so I had a completely dry system. I have tried a numatic brake bleeder and I've tried hand pumping and I've tried this and at first I couldn't get no lever at all but after I let it sit over night with zip tie I finally have a little resistance but it's still spongy. Last night I tried to zip tie it again over night so hopefully I'll get more air out.. my rear brakes I've done same thing but I got solid brake right away.
ive been looking, this video may helped, i bleed the system.. 2018 ninja, previouse owner droped it, i got new rear master cyl. (and other parts) i cleaned it, it presses in.
but doesn't decompress, when i let off the breaks... hints? help?
There is a spring that is supposed to return the pedal/lever to its original position. Make sure the pedal has clearance and there is a return spring present
Thanks for the tip i put the zip tie on hope it works
No problem! Good luck! Hope it works out for you. Hope you subscribe! Cheers!
Trying this now. I bled my brakes and still spongy. Next I bled it from the master cylinder connection. Still spongy. I'll try this and if need be re-bleed the brakes again.
Please tips for my yamaha r6 front breaks lose tips please please
What exactly do you mean when you say your front brake is loose?
What if the handbrake is not spongey n won't close how do I fix that
It sounds like a mechanical failure or hydraulic lock. Could you explain your symptom in more detail so I can try to help?
@@TheMotorcycleBoss its a bike that was sitting for a while the clutch and rear brakes work but the handlebar brakes wont close(wont release from open opsition), its a k3 gsx
@@camronmoz2662 so you're saying that you can't pull the lever in or the lever wont spring back out.
@@TheMotorcycleBoss I can't pull it in, can I fix that or should I get new parts?
@@camronmoz2662 is your brake fluid level extremely high? Apply pressure to your lever then slowly crack your brake bleed nipple then tighten it back up before the lever is pulled all the way. Does the lever move when you do that? Are the brakes siezed on the rotor?
I'm trying this... I'll report back tomorrow. That being said, I've had "spongy" brakes, but after 100 miles they seem to get the sponge out of them... (BUT be careful that you do have brakes during that 100 miles!) Thanks
Sorry for the late reply. I hope it managed to help you.
btw, whos from s.c.? (greenville)
What about back brakes
Your best bet is to remove the whole caliper with something between the brake pads and raise the caliper above the master cylinder then bleed them the traditional way.
Do you have to leave the reservoir open overnight?
No
But the air cant get out in a closed circuit?
@@fvds_music175 the air stays in the system but the air bubbles with rise to the top of the reservoir.
My brake lever is the opposite. Too hard. Does that mean I put too much brake fluid into the system? Surely not?
Usually that is the symptom of hydraulic lock caused by too much fluid. But be sure to check for any obstructions to your brake lever. I hope this helps. If you find out what it is, please tell me about it. Thanks for commenting and ride safe! Cheers!
no. It’s supposed to hit like a brick wall. Your master is perfect
Good work😀
Thanks! Funny thing is, I have the ziptie on my bike as we speak. A last second check before a ride tomorrow. I hope it works for you. Good luck and stay safe!
@@TheMotorcycleBoss yes absolutely i hope it may works, i gonna use ziptie for this...
@@TheMotorcycleBoss yes i worked on it, now its working awesome... Expect some more tips like these😀
@@avsolutions212 glad to help. Stick around for more vids. Stay safe!
@@TheMotorcycleBoss ❤️
have no front brakes on my kawasaki 250😢
You most likely still have too much air trapped in the lines or caliper
sadly, it didnt work for mine.
It means you still have air trapped in your lines or caliper. Worst case is your master cylinder seal is allowing brake fluid to bypass. But most likely you just still have too much air you need to get out
If I had to wait a year to ride ? I’d lose the whole ear!!! Cheers!
Good vid 👍👍
Thanks bro.
Helpful video but i have question i have changed my brakepads of front but still lever is not coming to hard position the adjustment of lever is on 5th point.brake is good but takes to press more i use hard lever can u help me out .
Hey! Thanks for reaching out. Changing brake pads will not do anything regarding fixing a spongy brake lever. A spongy brake is commonly caused by having air in your brake lines. You need to perform a procedure called "brake bleeding". This will purge the air out of your lines and if done correctly, will return your brakes back to a firm feeling. I have a video covering how to bleed brakes if you would like to check it out. I hope this helps! Ride safe and I hope you subscribed! Cheers!
@@TheMotorcycleBoss i did brake bleeding by professionals but still its same do i need to rebuild the master cylinder kit?
@@asimprince8968 Even professionals leave air in the brakes pretty often unfortunately. Rebuilding the master cylinder might help but the more likely cause is air in the system or worn out rubber brake lines. Upgrading to steel-braided brake lines has the potential to dramatically increase brake feel. If you are interested in either route, I have videos for both rebuilding the master cylinder as well as upgrading to steel-braided lines.
@@TheMotorcycleBoss i have just tied up the lever as suggested in the video will keep over night lets see hope its go well🙂
@@asimprince8968 good luck!
Very cool
I tried this method but with no success I need new brake fluid anyways so I'm just going to bleed them the old-fashioned way
Just run your girlfriends vibrator agaist the cables 😂 no air in the cables now
Did you just say a year and a half for your girlfriends ear to fucking heal 😂
It actually took closer to 3. It's common given the placement.
@@TheMotorcycleBoss But it did work, I mean she do listen to you now ?
Arent you allowed to ride without your girlfriend? Geez..😵
The whole point of having a motorcycle 😂
Yeah, that's pretty weak shiet there. A year and half because she had her ears peirced? Bruh wtf. smdh. This was 3 years ago, so hopefully he had developed a backbone and testicles by now.
Dude, she don’t like to ride
Lol what! Tell her to get her own bike (or 6) 😂 I’ve been riding 33 years and have ridden with freshly pierced ears.
lol motorcycle "boss"
That’s not a Harley
It is absolutely not
You did not ride for 1,5 years because your girl got her ear pierced? 😮
Your girlfriend is lame if she doesn’t have her own bike.
She does now!