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Mold Release Films for Composites Tooling
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- Опубликовано: 26 сен 2020
- This video goes with an article at Explore Composites! about adhesive backed mold release films. These films are PTFE and Fluoropolymer sheet with a pressure sensitive adhesive so they go on like a big sticker and save you the trouble of a chemical mold release or (ugh!) wax.
Here's the article:
explorecomposites.com/article...
So if you are routinely making one-off composite parts on cheap tooling - this may be very useful to you! There are lots of other great uses, and though it isn't cheap stuff I think you'll find it very helpful. I sure do!
The products shown in this video are from Taconic and Airtech. See the end of the article for a comprehensive list of suppliers.
My go to is a trash bag plus 3M 77 spray to tack it on to the part: leave descent finish if you work the bubbles/wrinkles out.
That's a neat idea! I like how stretchy the bag is - probably reduces wrinkles and conforms easily. Do you apply release to the bag after or does it just pull off the part? I've done similar with release film and it works ok with prepregs, but for wet layup it makes a wrinkly nasty mess. People also use aluminum foil and spray glue, but this is a lot of work and I haven't tried it.
On the curved pieces and if the quantities justify it, Taconic can diecut so it is exactly the size needed.
I've used masonite as a cheap, disposable mold surface and where I've had to drill, counter sink and screw it down to a frame I've covered the screw heads with clear packing tape, cheaper the better. Ends up being a mere 1/2 thousandths of an inch thick that can easily be sanded.
That's a great method. I have used plenty of masonite and the shiny "bath board" that is sold for shower liners. What kind of release agent do you use? The fastener holes are a bummer. Sometimes you can clamp it down and glue from the back...
I totally agree on the cheap packing tape being the best - and this Teflon stuff is just fancy packing tape you can use over and over. It's great stuff but it sure is tough to spring for a big roll of it knowing its all going in the trash - I guess all tooling is in that category though!
@@ExploreComposites I use Mirror Gloss and PVA.
Looks like your making a very informative channel!!! SUBSCRIBED!!!
I would love to see you do a 1in or 3/4" Rigid foam insulation (like Foamular 250) with fiberglass on both sides. Then see what large span 4+ feet is able to handle weight wise... Im curious because I have heard people make campers out of it and I just cant believe that it would be strong enough to handle weight on top or handle long term wind turbulence on a trip.
Glad you like the videos! There's a web site too that is much more comprehensive... still figuring out how to make videos.
I like your foam idea. Will look into it! It sounds structurally a little like a surfboard - very thin fiberglass on light weight foam. Denting would be the biggest issue probably - can't imagine a camper skin takes much load if it is on a stiff metal frame... but I share your concerns about wind. I don't know much about campers!
Strength would depend on the thickness of the foam (preferably 1") and the laminate schedule for the outer skin. I would recommend a minimum of 2 plies of 9-10oz E-glass and preferably 3. If you're thinking of using the pink, Owens Corning foam from Home Depot you MUST use epoxy resin as polyester resin will chemically melt the foam. The inner skin (over a 1x1 wood frame) could be 1/4' luan plywood. That would give a very light yet stiff structure.
@@GrantOakes Thank you! that is some really good Info! 1.5" is the foam thickness I have been considering lately due to 2x2 framing is buy off the shelf which would be less cutting. Also using 1/4 Ply is not a bad idea especially on the sides since I will be using this on a 4x4 Toyota Hilux and Trail driving to get to a camp will happen at times. Last thing I want is a stick stabbed through the camper wall.
This is pretty helpful. Have you tried applying a bit of heat to deal with this when applying to complex/curved parts?
The reinforced stuff really doesn't stretch but the Toolwright and other unsupported ones do - with or without heat. Not sure if heat is a good idea or not - never tried.
Great! Any pointers on where to buy?
The article linked in the description has a list at the bottom. Here it is:
explorecomposites.com/articles/tooling/adhesive-teflon-its-awesome/
I didn't want to put info in the video that might become irrelevant in the future so kept it general. The materials in the video are made by Taconic and Airtech.
Dear ,we are the manufacturer of PVA mold release film , if you need ,please contact with us
It would be faster, easier, cheaper and better surface finish to cover the surface with wax and spray it with PVA
In many situations I agree - but wax and PVA aren’t a universal best choice. Lots of labor goes into a bunch of applications of wax. This stuff is sometimes just what you need!
Could you elaborate more on why this material is not recommended for parts that are intended to have a raw carbon finish?
It can be used to make raw/clear carbon finished parts and is a great option for low volume projects - it just doesn't work with gelcoat. This isn't an issue with epoxy/pre-pregs where you would probably be painting with primer and 2-part paint/clear anyway.
The shiny teflon surface can really help because it greatly reduces the pinhole problem you can have making parts on wood or putty-heavy tooling. I guess I didn't explain this well enough! Check out the article for more info:
explorecomposites.com/articles/tooling/adhesive-teflon-its-awesome/
@@ExploreComposites
I read your articles, and thoroughly enjoyed perusing the site.
Gel coat was my next question,
I'm guessing that this stuff can't be used for making wet layup molds.
Is the gel coat just not thixotropic enough to hang onto the ptfe?
@@richm7936 Yes, you can wet-layup on it but it is too slick for gelcoat - it just beads up. Its great for bagged wet-layup epoxy parts - especially the 0.003" semi-porous teflon which really helps prevent pin-holes.
I find it is great for getting good surfaces off tooling that you don't have time to prime and finish - or for parts you are going to have to prime anyway.
@@ExploreComposites honestly, I'm just trying to improve work flow.
By my logic, if I can cover the polyester gelcoat of my mold with a layer of ptfe film, I will save a ton of time not having to deal with release agents and or PVA.
Some parts I deal with, have deep recesses and tight draft angles. Not many complex curves.
Everything gets shot with duratec sunshield after post cure.
As I'm quickly learning, there's as much art as science in the field of composite manufacturing.
Dear ,we are the manufacturer of PVA mold release film , if you need ,please contact with us
Зачем применять эти плёнки? Всё это очень долго,сложно и молд при этом ножем портить 🤔 Есть же отличное решение -PVA агент! 👍🏻
I don;t have much experience with PVA but it totally has is place. This film helps make a surface shiny and gives good results with pre-preg too.
Время! Когда вам надо сделать много частей от одного форма. Не надо замазать 3 слоя воска потом PVA и ждать его засушит. Не надо каждый раз чистить форма У вас никогда будет проблемов, где не было досточно воска или слишком много ПВА. Даже вам не придется дышать вредными химическим средствами и чистящими средствами для формы.