This blank looks to be a really useful profile. Even though knife making is not a social process for me, Thanks for motivating me to get into the shop on these cold winter days. Now I gotta go back and see where you heat treated your blade.
coming along nicely. There's always been some debate about the proper bevel angle. When I was a kid, making my own arrows just for the fun of it, I soon realized that rather blunt arrows held what point they had longer (they were just cut with a pocket knife, no fancy stuff, usually made from cattail reeds or whatever straight sticks we could find) I'm not sure if that angle is shallow or steep, but probably a total of 45 degrees or so, but rounded. We'd cut some to a thin, fine point, while they would pierce faster and easier on the first shot or two, they soon were too dinged up to do much even on our cardboard box targets. So, from that I gathered that if you want an edge that lasts, you make it well... for lack of a better term, blunter. For really sharp, you make it a thinner cut, but it doesn't last long, I guess it depends on what you commonly use the knife for, the bevel you have seems like a decent compromise choice.
Hey dude, your channel has the best vibe so chilled and easy to understand yet professional, while I find many even in different genres are hard to consistantly follow along with your videos just cruise through and make me want to see the next immediately, thanks for the great content!
@@TheArtofCraftsmanship There's benefits to both. It's been great to see uploads weekly but it's so satisfying to get to see something start to finish in one go.
Hi Dustin! I have a question about figuring out how hi above your angle iron or aluminum angle to put your blade edge? Looks like about 1/4” but I’m not sure. I hope that my question makes sense. Peace, Albin
Yes, the belt is moving down the face of the platten. I have not ever had an issue with the belts being cut, but I’m not grinding sharp blades, I’m grinding hunks of metal😁, which will eventually be sharpened into effective blades. That being said, I have heard of belts being damaged, but it’s usually a result of user error.
This is an incredibly helpful series! I've researched a bit, but I can't find a straight answer on what strength of magnet to use for the flat grinding. What strength are you using here?
Hi. Thanks For Sharing Your Knowledge. I Have question . Why you Use two line for edge ? in other video i have seen use one line in center of edge. can you explain how you calculate the size of lines ?
Hey bud, is there a particular reason you start turning away when you get near the tip of the blade? Or can you grind in a straight line? Great work by the way!!!
Hello Dustin. Roy Sparks here from South Africa. Thanks for your video's , they are very helpful. I would like your opinion on stock thickness for ideal all round knife , particularly for hunting purposes. One knife to dispatch a wounded animal where necessary , gut it , skin it and seperate the joints. I have watched many video's on knife making and see lots of fella's using really heavy stock to build there knives from. Judging by eye anything from 5 mm up to about 7mm in thickness. My opinion is that those may be impractical and overkill. I am thinking about ability to pearce with the point , drag or resistance when skining because of the thicknes of the blade beyong the bevel , because that portion will come into contact with the meat. In your video here , speaking under correction the stock you are using seems to be around 3.5 mm to 4 mm. Your opinion will be appreciated. Thanks and keep up the good work.
I don't really have a set amount of passes. I check the scratch marks after almost every pass to ensure that they are all even and from the same grit. As I get to the higher grits, I do less passes, but I like you idea of doing the same number of passes each time. Actually, I do that when I am hand sanding, but the grind I do more by eye. Hope this helps.
My question is. When you grind the 10 degree bevel with the 36 grit belt and then move up in grits do you still keep the 10 degree angle until the bevel is complete or do you change the angle each time you go up in grits.
I keep the angle the same the whole time, but it depends on what you want for your final bevel. I will also sometimes change my bevel during the initial 36 grit belt to bring the bevel higher or lower on the blade flats, but then I’ll keep it the same throughout the rest of the grinding.
The Art of Craftsmanship thanks for your help buddy. I want to do a full flat grind. Can I keep the same 10 degree angle from start to finish and just start fro 36g and work my way up in grits or do I have to keep changing my angle lower to make the bevel go to the top of the knife. Example: start at 10 deg then 5 deg then 2 deg or just keep it at a 10 deg for each side until I reach the top? Thank
Kelly Foster the bevel angle is going to relate directly to the thickness of your stock. You may need to change your bevel angle until you’ve found the degree that works. Either that or do some hopefully simple math to come up with the correct angle from the get go. 😁😉
The Art of Craftsmanship thanks for all the advice. I really appreciate it.btw I have the same 2x42 craftsman belt grinder that you have in your videos. Does the platen need to be touching the belt or should there be a gap between the platen and belt? Thx
Thanks for sharing your great videos. I am just starting to make knifes and buying equipment. I have a question: I can buy a small band grinder with an adjustable table, only from 0-45 degrees down. My question is it possible to swap the blade with the bevel up and then have an angle of 10 degrees. Thanks for letting me know. cheers from the netherlands
It’s hard to know exactly what you are asking, but I have modified each or my grinders to give them the ability to tilt forward, toward the belt, to be able to grind, bevel up. I would suggest trying to mod your work rest first. If that doesn’t work, in response to your question about flipping the blade, I’d say go for it and see how it works. Maybe test it on a scrap piece of steel first😉. Good luck.
The Art of Craftsmanship Thanks for your answer. I will follow up and keep you in informed about the progress I make. Keep on doing the good work. Cheers from the Netherlands
What kind of belts are you using? are they just regular wood sanding belts or something special for metal. Just wondering,wanting to try making a couple of knives for me and my son and have all the woodworking tools and supplys but was wondering if I can uSE what I got or need to make a trip to HD, or HF
You definitely can use what you have. It’s a good idea not to go back and forth from wood to metal with the same belt, but they’re your belts so do as you please. I go back and forth probably more than I should and it has never really been a problem. I do have metal specific belts that’s picked up from red lable, and combat abrasives, but I didn’t for a long time and they worked fine for knife making. Good luck.
@@TheArtofCraftsmanship Thanks buddy, I just picked up a small1x30 belt sander from HF along with some metal belt , not the best stuff but it ought to do the job while Im learning, thanks again for the reply
When grinding bevels, how do you determine what angle to set your jig to? Or how do you know if you’re removing too much or too little material? I know that’s why you mark the center of the blade, but how do you know if your bevel will end at the center line, and at the right distance from the spine?
This is not my place but I try to answer to your question: the bevel jig is not an 90 degrees it is less(depends where you are looking for). First time when I saw the video I was also confused but after few re views and thinking and I understand. Very simple bevel jig . Unfortunately only 1 ungle you can grind.
I am a brand new beginner to knife making. I have seen so many incredible Knife makers and thier videos are great. However, one thing that they neglect to cover is What belt grit they use for each stage of the process. ex: Clean up the grind marks, clean up the spine and most important, When cutting the bevels.
Great work. Been a fan of the channel for some time now and getting ready to take a stab a making my first knife. I know free hand grinding is far away from me but how did you make that fig? It looks like an angle iron but those are usually next square.
It is a piece of angle aluminum, and it’s pretty square. I set my work rest at the angle I want and clamp the blade to the angle aluminum. Works perfectly. Good luck and have fun.
If you mean using the 2x42 instead of the 4x36, there are several reasons. The 2x42 has a 1hp motor, compared to the other’s 1/3hp. The 2x42 has more of a variety of belt grits. It also has a platen that is the same size as the belt, with open air behind, which enables clean plunge lines, and more room for your hands, and room to maneuver the blade. I do like the 4x36 for its large flat area for grinding the flats, and I will use the open top of the wheel for shaping.
The Art of Craftsmanship thanks for the info. I’ve been on your channel for an hour. I love your stuff and I’ll be subscribing! I do remodeling but I also do stuff like this on the side. I love the idea of a build along series. If you do another one I’ll post pictures as I go. I’m currently doing two axes and a small cross peen right now
How do you place knive on jig to insure the bevels are straight and why u turn knife at tip of blade this info would help beginners on bevels more info how to do it showing us not really helping alot like it would with more details i need help with it
Some people prefer to heat treat first, to leave as much thickness in the blade to hopefully avoid warps. It’s tougher on grinding belts, but a safer process to get straight and true blades. It’s the same reason people who pre-grind their bevels will often leave them thick and then finish grind after the heat treat. Hope this helps. Thanks for watching.
@@TheArtofCraftsmanship I forgot the oil could catch fire when you quench so surprised me a bit lol next im buying a welder and making myself a 2x72!! Loving it so much and love learning new skills.
I like your show and how you make knives.WD 40 is not cutting oil. Get some and your cuts will be better and drills last longer. Please be careful when drilling a knife.
HI i am watching along with this i want to make a knife at some point. But i have a question about when you finish one bevel on the jig. How important is it to keep the blade in the same position when you turn it round to do the bevel on the other side. Or is near enough good enough. Regards from the UK.
I found that near enough is good enough. I try to line it up about the same on both sides, but your control and pressure while grinding is most important. The Jig help to keep the consistent angle, but your pressure is what makes the bevel parallel with the edge. Good luck.
Question: I bought a Scotchbrite belt for my 1X30 and it too tight to get on the machine. I've tried everything I can think of, even stretching it as far as possible. I can get it on but, it is so tight the machine WILL NOT move the belt! What might I do to get this thing to work. BTW I have the HF machine just as you show in many of your videos.
Not sure man. The only thing I can think would maybe work is to thin the belts from the inside. If they won’t stretch any more, then try flipping it inside out a sanding it down/ thin it from the inner side. Hopefully this works. Good luck.
@@TheArtofCraftsmanship, thanks for the quick reply. Looking into the model I see it has a 1 hp motor and an 8” disk too. Too bad they discontinued these.
I would assume because it's easier to grip the knife and do a full grind this way? I'd probably do the final sharpen after the handle but you can protect the blade. Oh and he's following along with a podcast so he's doing it their way. I could be totally wrong, I'm no metal worker it's just my assumptions based on what I've learned.
![BLACK BAG - Official Trailer [HD] - Only in Theaters March 14](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Du0Xp8WX_7I/mqdefault.jpg)
Building up to my first knife
I’ll be coming back to these to build-along later in the year.
You are an excellent teacher.
earthdog 58 although you could get more in on the videos
I ENJOYED THE VIDEOS, AND THE GOOD INSTRUCTION.
I learn more from watching your work than anyone else. Thanks for sharing!!!
Thank you!
This blank looks to be a really useful profile. Even though knife making is not a social process for me, Thanks for motivating me to get into the shop on these cold winter days. Now I gotta go back and see where you heat treated your blade.
Interesting technique, simple angle iron and 2 vice grips , just angle the platform , result - perfect bevels👍
Superb work. Real helpful when you show/say the grit your using for each step.
Great knife maker guy and orchestra conductor!
Thank you Dustin, looking really great so far.
coming along nicely. There's always been some debate about the proper bevel angle. When I was a kid, making my own arrows just for the fun of it, I soon realized that rather blunt arrows held what point they had longer (they were just cut with a pocket knife, no fancy stuff, usually made from cattail reeds or whatever straight sticks we could find) I'm not sure if that angle is shallow or steep, but probably a total of 45 degrees or so, but rounded. We'd cut some to a thin, fine point, while they would pierce faster and easier on the first shot or two, they soon were too dinged up to do much even on our cardboard box targets. So, from that I gathered that if you want an edge that lasts, you make it well... for lack of a better term, blunter. For really sharp, you make it a thinner cut, but it doesn't last long, I guess it depends on what you commonly use the knife for, the bevel you have seems like a decent compromise choice.
Hey dude, your channel has the best vibe so chilled and easy to understand yet professional, while I find many even in different genres are hard to consistantly follow along with your videos just cruise through and make me want to see the next immediately, thanks for the great content!
Thanks for the shout out Dustin. Them bevels look sweet 👍🏼
Hiya I have never made a knife but by watching these vids it has made me love knifes and making them and made me decide to become one : )
Watching you work is borderline therapeutic lol
I have 6 knifes I am making right now so I cant follow along with another one but we will keep with the spirit of it :)
Thanks for the knowledge !!!!!!!!!!!!
Very educational video, thank you for doing this series!
It looks like it is coming along nicely
Very helpful! Thanks much!
marvellous video!
Looks like it will be a great build!
Love your channel and I know your doing the build off but I really liked when you did start to finish. Hope to see more 🤞
Definitely. We’re not fond of parts, so we will get back to full builds after. Thanks
@@TheArtofCraftsmanship There's benefits to both. It's been great to see uploads weekly but it's so satisfying to get to see something start to finish in one go.
Приятно смотреть,хорошее видео так же как и ваша работа!!!
I really enjoyed watching the build a long. Now only if I could figure out how to post a picture.
Are you on Instagram? If not, you could email me your pictures. I’d love to see them. Theartofcraftsmanship@gmail.com
thank-you my friend
I like the "where's waldo" cameo at 2:56.
LOL took me a second...
Hi Dustin! I have a question about figuring out how hi above your angle iron or aluminum angle to put your blade edge? Looks like about 1/4” but I’m not sure. I hope that my question makes sense. Peace, Albin
Nice tutorial. When grinding is the belt going top to bottom? Do you ever have any issues with the knife cutting the belts?
Yes, the belt is moving down the face of the platten. I have not ever had an issue with the belts being cut, but I’m not grinding sharp blades, I’m grinding hunks of metal😁, which will eventually be sharpened into effective blades. That being said, I have heard of belts being damaged, but it’s usually a result of user error.
looking good
This is an incredibly helpful series! I've researched a bit, but I can't find a straight answer on what strength of magnet to use for the flat grinding. What strength are you using here?
The magnet I use is this, which is a 30lb and works great.
www.harborfreight.com/hardware/magnets/30-lb-capacity-powerful-handle-magnets-67156.html
What scotch brite belt are you using.
ahahah, nice because my first knife has some marks that de grinding was not ok! I don't know how to fix it.
Hi. Thanks For Sharing Your Knowledge. I Have question . Why you Use two line for edge ? in other video i have seen use one line in center of edge.
can you explain how you calculate the size of lines ?
Hey bud, is there a particular reason you start turning away when you get near the tip of the blade? Or can you grind in a straight line? Great work by the way!!!
What belt grinder do you have?
Are you using a 2x42 belt grinder? It looks larger than a 1x30. If so did have to build the work bench? All of mine are really small.
Hello Dustin. Roy Sparks here from South Africa. Thanks for your video's , they are very helpful. I would like your opinion on stock thickness for ideal all round knife , particularly for hunting purposes. One knife to dispatch a wounded animal where necessary , gut it , skin it and seperate the joints. I have watched many video's on knife making and see lots of fella's using really heavy stock to build there knives from. Judging by eye anything from 5 mm up to about 7mm in thickness. My opinion is that those may be impractical and overkill. I am thinking about ability to pearce with the point , drag or resistance when skining because of the thicknes of the blade beyong the bevel , because that portion will come into contact with the meat. In your video here , speaking under correction the stock you are using seems to be around 3.5 mm to 4 mm. Your opinion will be appreciated. Thanks and keep up the good work.
I think 1/8 inch, or 3.2 mm is best all around. It’s more then strong enough, but not so thin that it’s flexible.
Curious how many passes with each belt did you do or is there a general number you do each time??
I don't really have a set amount of passes. I check the scratch marks after almost every pass to ensure that they are all even and from the same grit. As I get to the higher grits, I do less passes, but I like you idea of doing the same number of passes each time. Actually, I do that when I am hand sanding, but the grind I do more by eye. Hope this helps.
Thanks! That does help. Now to start my own blade
How do you know what measurement to set the marking gauge to, to get the 2 lines?
My question is. When you grind the 10 degree bevel with the 36 grit belt and then move up in grits do you still keep the 10 degree angle until the bevel is complete or do you change the angle each time you go up in grits.
I keep the angle the same the whole time, but it depends on what you want for your final bevel. I will also sometimes change my bevel during the initial 36 grit belt to bring the bevel higher or lower on the blade flats, but then I’ll keep it the same throughout the rest of the grinding.
The Art of Craftsmanship thanks for your help buddy. I want to do a full flat grind. Can I keep the same 10 degree angle from start to finish and just start fro 36g and work my way up in grits or do I have to keep changing my angle lower to make the bevel go to the top of the knife. Example: start at 10 deg then 5 deg then 2 deg or just keep it at a 10 deg for each side until I reach the top?
Thank
Kelly Foster the bevel angle is going to relate directly to the thickness of your stock. You may need to change your bevel angle until you’ve found the degree that works. Either that or do some hopefully simple math to come up with the correct angle from the get go. 😁😉
The Art of Craftsmanship thanks for all the advice. I really appreciate it.btw I have the same 2x42 craftsman belt grinder that you have in your videos. Does the platen need to be touching the belt or should there be a gap between the platen and belt? Thx
How do you decide what angle you grind your bevels on
Thanks for sharing your great videos. I am just starting to make knifes and buying equipment. I have a question: I can buy a small band grinder with an adjustable table, only from 0-45 degrees down. My question is it possible to swap the blade with the bevel up and then have an angle of 10 degrees. Thanks for letting me know. cheers from the netherlands
It’s hard to know exactly what you are asking, but I have modified each or my grinders to give them the ability to tilt forward, toward the belt, to be able to grind, bevel up. I would suggest trying to mod your work rest first. If that doesn’t work, in response to your question about flipping the blade, I’d say go for it and see how it works. Maybe test it on a scrap piece of steel first😉. Good luck.
The Art of Craftsmanship Thanks for your answer. I will follow up and keep you in informed about the progress I make. Keep on doing the good work. Cheers from the Netherlands
What kind of belts are you using? are they just regular wood sanding belts or something special for metal. Just wondering,wanting to try making a couple of knives for me and my son and have all the woodworking tools and supplys but was wondering if I can uSE what I got or need to make a trip to HD, or HF
You definitely can use what you have. It’s a good idea not to go back and forth from wood to metal with the same belt, but they’re your belts so do as you please. I go back and forth probably more than I should and it has never really been a problem. I do have metal specific belts that’s picked up from red lable, and combat abrasives, but I didn’t for a long time and they worked fine for knife making. Good luck.
@@TheArtofCraftsmanship Thanks buddy, I just picked up a small1x30 belt sander from HF along with some metal belt , not the best stuff but it ought to do the job while Im learning, thanks again for the reply
When grinding bevels, how do you determine what angle to set your jig to? Or how do you know if you’re removing too much or too little material? I know that’s why you mark the center of the blade, but how do you know if your bevel will end at the center line, and at the right distance from the spine?
This is not my place but I try to answer to your question: the bevel jig is not an 90 degrees it is less(depends where you are looking for). First time when I saw the video I was also confused but after few re views and thinking and I understand. Very simple bevel jig . Unfortunately only 1 ungle you can grind.
I am a brand new beginner to knife making. I have seen so many incredible Knife makers and thier videos are great. However, one thing that they neglect to cover is What belt grit they use for each stage of the process. ex: Clean up the grind marks, clean up the spine and most important, When cutting the bevels.
Great work. Been a fan of the channel for some time now and getting ready to take a stab a making my first knife. I know free hand grinding is far away from me but how did you make that fig? It looks like an angle iron but those are usually next square.
It is a piece of angle aluminum, and it’s pretty square. I set my work rest at the angle I want and clamp the blade to the angle aluminum. Works perfectly. Good luck and have fun.
Is there any particular reason or advantage to using the smaller belt sander for the bevels? I feel like the larger one would be much more efficient
If you mean using the 2x42 instead of the 4x36, there are several reasons. The 2x42 has a 1hp motor, compared to the other’s 1/3hp. The 2x42 has more of a variety of belt grits. It also has a platen that is the same size as the belt, with open air behind, which enables clean plunge lines, and more room for your hands, and room to maneuver the blade. I do like the 4x36 for its large flat area for grinding the flats, and I will use the open top of the wheel for shaping.
The Art of Craftsmanship thanks for the info. I’ve been on your channel for an hour. I love your stuff and I’ll be subscribing! I do remodeling but I also do stuff like this on the side. I love the idea of a build along series. If you do another one I’ll post pictures as I go. I’m currently doing two axes and a small cross peen right now
How do you place knive on jig to insure the bevels are straight and why u turn knife at tip of blade this info would help beginners on bevels more info how to do it showing us not really helping alot like it would with more details i need help with it
Hey man would you mind telling us what music your playing. Thats cool but I've never heard it before.
The music is all recorded by Devon and a few musician friends.
Hey everyone just wondering is there a reason you heat treat before grinding bevels?
Some people prefer to heat treat first, to leave as much thickness in the blade to hopefully avoid warps. It’s tougher on grinding belts, but a safer process to get straight and true blades. It’s the same reason people who pre-grind their bevels will often leave them thick and then finish grind after the heat treat. Hope this helps. Thanks for watching.
@@TheArtofCraftsmanship awesome never thought of that heat treated my first blade last night and it went great!!
Zach Sowers right on brother. That’s such a satisfying moment. The rest is finish work and a good eye for Craftsmanship.
@@TheArtofCraftsmanship I forgot the oil could catch fire when you quench so surprised me a bit lol next im buying a welder and making myself a 2x72!! Loving it so much and love learning new skills.
I like your show and how you make knives.WD 40 is not cutting oil. Get some and your cuts will be better and drills last longer. Please be careful when drilling a knife.
HI i am watching along with this i want to make a knife at some point. But i have a question about when you finish one bevel on the jig. How important is it to keep the blade in the same position when you turn it round to do the bevel on the other side. Or is near enough good enough. Regards from the UK.
I found that near enough is good enough. I try to line it up about the same on both sides, but your control and pressure while grinding is most important. The Jig help to keep the consistent angle, but your pressure is what makes the bevel parallel with the edge. Good luck.
Question: I bought a Scotchbrite belt for my 1X30 and it too tight to get on the machine. I've tried everything I can think of, even stretching it as far as possible. I can get it on but, it is so tight the machine WILL NOT move the belt! What might I do to get this thing to work. BTW I have the HF machine just as you show in many of your videos.
Not sure man. The only thing I can think would maybe work is to thin the belts from the inside. If they won’t stretch any more, then try flipping it inside out a sanding it down/ thin it from the inner side. Hopefully this works. Good luck.
What is the brand of the 2” grinder that you are using ?
It’s a Revolution 2x72 grinder from Brian at Housemade.us.
@@TheArtofCraftsmanship I am very curious about the grinder you were using in this video too. You commented in a reply above that it was a 2”X42”.
Gotcha. Thanks for clarifying. The 2x42 is a Sears/Craftsman, with an 8” disc sander.
@@TheArtofCraftsmanship, thanks for the quick reply. Looking into the model I see it has a 1 hp motor and an 8” disk too. Too bad they discontinued these.
Randy Foster Jet makes a similar model now. I picked mine up from a pawn shop for about $125
be nice to know what brand of dust mask you are using ?
I need to buy one, before I start grinding my knife.
I am using a 3M quick latch respirator, with 3M particulate filters.
@@TheArtofCraftsmanship , Thanks I will see if I can find one before I start grinding . All I have is paper masks.
what is ur favorite knife steel ?
I might say 1095, but that’s the one I’ve used the most.
Likeeeeeeeee
3rd
Great job Dustin. I'm doing a build series giveaway on my channel also.
2nd
Hi. Why don't you make the handle first, and then the bevel? That seems moore logical.
I would assume because it's easier to grip the knife and do a full grind this way? I'd probably do the final sharpen after the handle but you can protect the blade.
Oh and he's following along with a podcast so he's doing it their way.
I could be totally wrong, I'm no metal worker it's just my assumptions based on what I've learned.
Didn't give enough information how to do a bevel
And why do you wear a mask, when you're grinding the knife? It's not like iron is dangerous?
Inhaling particles of any sort is never good, especially if done on a regular basis.