This video is pretty long-winded but I wanted to include as many details as I could. Leave a comment if you have any questions about these and I'll try my best to answer it!
The 1845c was my first machine. I would say probably one of the best models ever built you can get most parts for it from Napa and actually have room to work on it great rigs with the 4bt hard to go wrong.
I own an 86 that I bought in 1999 for $9k. I still own it and still work it. It has been one tough little machine and other than a starter and regular maintenance it has served me well. The hour meter never worked since I bought it but it stopped at just under 9000 hours so she pushing some high hours still on the original engine.
The meter stopped at 9k back in '99? Wow! That goes to show what good maintenance can do for a good machine. You just can't beat these Case skid steers with a stick.
Great video thanks ! Im going to look at a older 1845c for mainly snow removal and moving bails and this is just what i needed to see before looking at it. My folks had two of these in the late 80s and early 90s and they seemed to work very well
This video made me pull the trigger on a case 1845C...after everything I’ve researched it seems to be one of the best made skid steers ever...I’m in love with mine...and just absolutely love how everything is mechanical! This took some time to put this video together...super helpful! Thanks!!
I had one of these machines a case 1845C was probably one of the best skid loader‘s on the market at that time!! Never had any issues with it except regular maintenance it was nearly bulletproof!!
Just bought an 1845c and checked out this video... Great Info, well Narrated, Good Camera work... I think you covered Everything about this machine... Thank You
I've been searching for a video like this for over an hour- I've never ran a skid steer before in my life but I'm going to look at and possibly purchase a used 1845c tomorrow- this video answered so many questions and was very informative- definitely liked and subscribed. Thanks for taking the time to post this and educate some of us with your knowledge
You're welcome glad you liked it. Consolidating as much information as I could about these loaders is exactly why I made this video. Good luck with your purchase. If you've never driven one before just remember they are extremely rear-heavy if they don't have a load on the front. They will easily do wheelies unless you're very gentile with the controls.
Very well done. Very informative. I have only ever really ran a BC 843 so those controls seem a bit less intuitive, but i like a lot of things about the 1845 better than the BC843.
Time 10:40 ... THANK YOU SO MUCH! I was wondering why my 1845C is so much nicer than all of the competitors. My 1845 is down for replacement of old hydraulic lines and partially pinched hard lines (3). I am temporarily using a Bobcat and it takes a lot of strength to operate the drive wheels. Too much work as it is tiring . Thanks for this video.
I watched your video and thought bat battery placement, then took the foot plate out of my 1840 and found the battery right below that in the open. and I went to check the chain oil and mine does not seem to have the covers on top but need to remove the side plate between the tires. some changes in the model from the 1845. thanks for a good video.
Got the same Cummins in my 450c dozer Friend of mine had a Case skid steer like yours Was mad when he sold it but his back was too injured to use it anymore. Going to reseal my Lucas injection pump this week from the dozer Always volunter to help my friends with skid steers, the last thing we did with his case was post holes. Nothing better than getting out in a field and using your skid steer for chores.
Those pumps love to leak for some reason. I agree they are fun to use, and can be hard on your back. I need to get an auger for mine. They're nice on a skid steer since you can unscrew them when you get stuck.
Neat video. Takes me back a few years. I ran one of these back in '89 and '90, during summer break in college. I loved the Case hand controls for the arm & bucket, as opposed to the pedal system on the older Bobcats (and on some 1845s as well).
Excellent video. My dad had a concrete business when I was a kid, so I grew up driving Case machines like this one from the time I was about 12 years old. He owned an 1845 Special made in the early 1980s for quite a while, then traded that machine in on a then brand-new 1994 brown cab 1840 (which had the roller-coaster parking brake bar, so must’ve been some overlap on when Case moved away from the split-bar to solid bar design.) Over the years I’ve also driven other Case equipment, such as the 95XT series and the 445, both of which are also great machines that seem to have improved on the overall solid design of these 1845Cs. I haven’t driven any of the newer Cases since they merged with New Holland, so I can’t speak to those, but for the money, these older Cases are tough to beat. I definitely prefer the Case H-pattern controls over some of the other machines I’ve driven (Bobcats, CAT, Mustang, Kubota), but that’s probably just muscle memory due to learning on the Case machines first. Just recently bought some acreage, and I’m hoping to find one of these older Case machines that hasn’t been beaten on too badly for a decent price to help maintain the property. Here’s hoping!
Very cool. The 1845 specials seem to be pretty rare. I'm not sure what the differences between them and the 1845/1845B's were. I've only ever heard great things about the big frame machines like the 90/95xt. I haven't tried any of the new alpha series machines either but I'm dying to. I see they went to a single-shear setup for the bucket pins which is a real shame imo. Now the only manufacturer still offering a double shear setup is Cat I think. Good luck on your search!
thanks for the walk around. I cant seem to start mine and was wondering about the fuel lever. so it is ether fast or slow and not off and on. that helps. Son use to keep the equipment up but he is so busy with his work.
This is an excellent walk around. Very thorough! One question, My auxiliary power is getting weak. Can you explain where the relief valve is for the aux? Boom pressure is great just anything I hook up to auxiliary is weak.
I'm not 100% sure but I believe the relief valve for both the boom and auxiliary is a large hex head plug pointing toward the rear of the machine on the back of the main control valve. If you pause at 17:23 you can just barely see the tip of it poking out there. It may or may not have a round anti-tamper cover on it. You can unscrew it from the main valve body and take a look but usually they never have a problem. You'll need to put a gauge on the pump, valve, etc, to see what's really going on.
Thank you kind sir the video was excellent i've watched it three times it's an easy way to look around my skid steer LOL because i have the same one but mine is not nearly as clean as yours i have had to dig through concrete and sludge and oil in the bottom to find leaks i've replaced four hoses to the tune of almost $900 ouch and i am narrowing down to where else it is leaking and i cannot quite be sure but it seems like it's coming from where the drive motors mount to the wall i've been looking for seal kits but i saw a guy on RUclips that says you have to buy a new drive motor ouch that will hurt but i've noticed on one side i'm getting the oil water mix coming in which i believe is from the chain case but on the other side it seems like just nice clean oil now this is after i've replaced lines that were definitely bad so i am not sure now if the oil that is coming in from behind the darn i keep forgetting what they're called oh yeah drive motor is leaking from the drive motor or coming in from the chain area another interesting tidbit i changed the oil on one side so that one shouldn't be full of water i'm talking about the chain case because i had to fix the wheel bearing on the other side i know it's still water and oil so on the side with oil and water i'm seeing oil and water seep in and the side with just oil i'm seeing oil seeking i know this might sound confusing i don't know if you have time to even help me with this but you did say you're always bored LOL so you might love to help me with it i don't know
Small leaks like that can be a real pain to track down. The oil with creep along any rough surfaces so finding the origin is basically impossible if it's dirty and rusty. Clean everything off really good then run it for a while and see what you have. If you can't get a complete seal kit you may still be able to order individual replacements from places like Hercules sealing products. Most seals come in standard sizes and designs so getting them one at a time is usually a viable option (albeit a tedious one). The only hoses I would go OEM for are drive hoses for the hydrostatic system. Those really need to be high quality because if they aren't they can potentially ruin the sensitive drive pumps and motors. Everything else I just use cheapo pre made ones.
my buzzer is not connected and wondering if you have a warning light go off will it sound the buzzer? and I think I will add a anderson connector to the batter so I could jump the skid from the outside and or run a maintenance charge on the battery
Its a good video. The info is good. That engine is 100% Cummins the Case industrial engine is much different. Case engine had ether option. Never on a 4B Cummins. Another small but of trivia is the Cummins has Two options for fuel filters. Dual like yours and a single.
If you pull the four bolts to remove the exhaust muffler you can remove the battery through the rear of the machine and you won't have to slide the cab forward.
Instead of removing the muffler just raise the loader arms all the way up then take out the battery much simpler and less work I've done that many times just make sure you replace the battery with a group 31 otherwise there won't be enough cold cranking amps to start it the winter
@@tomanderson997 usually starting the machine isnt an option if youre at the point of replacing the battery, sure jumper cables or a jump pack work sometimes but if the battery is shorted itll eat up that juice instead of sending it to the starter.. a battery should always be replaceable with a non running machine or vehicle
I just purchased one of these and it of course needs a little work, Thanks for this video I will be referring to it again I am sure. I am having problems with the drives running equal on each side. Meaning it is always veering to the left when its suppose to be going straight.
@AlwaysBored123 That's exactly what we did was adjust the linkage and got it way better. Next I think the starter is pulling way to much juice and making it turn over too slow.
@AlwaysBored123 That's exactly what we did was adjust the linkage and got it way better. Next I think the starter is pulling way to much juice and making it turn over too slow.
@@holzie6723 If you're sure of the battery and connections it's most likely worn brushes in the starter. They're easy enough to replace if you have a pencil torch and some soldering skill. Or any starter repair shop can fix it.
I think for the money and time I will just replace the starter with a new one. Do they make different types that turn over faster than others? @@AlwaysBored123
Hello friend great video. Should there be any side to side movement where the cylinder connects to the triangle looking part of the arm? Basically I can move the top of the cylinder left and right where the pin connects to the triangle (at the point of the triangle) About to purchase this machine but may negotiate if these are bad bushings. Thank you for any quick information.
Side to side movement is fine and not indicative of wear. Back and forth slop means worn pins and bushings but you probably won't be able to see that without doing some disassembly to isolate the joint and take the pressure off it. The self leveling mechanism usually doesn't take much wear anyway. What you should look closely at are the lowest bushings in the boom where the bucket pivots at and the highest ones where the boom attaches to the frame.
@@AlwaysBored123 Thanks so much for responding. This thing says 1300 hours and the meter is working but I just can't believe it. Of course it has been repainted but I found the old pics and it still looks good. The engine is super clean. It was owned by the city. Just don't know for a 1998.
I hate battery swaps on this machine! But have found that you can remove cab screws and pound it over to the side. No need to move the whole cab forward.
@@AlwaysBored123 My father just picked up one of these, i was wondering if you knew anything about a backhoe attachment for it? He is looking into getting one so ive been trying to find anything i can about this machine
@@wallas0786 IIRC the factory backhoe attachments were the Case D100, D100XR, and D125. Any skid steer backhoe attachment can work provided you can find a way to secure it to the frame of the machine (or at least the loader arms). Without doing that it will buck around when you try to dig and be pretty much unusable.
Great video. Thanks as used the info before buying a case skidsteer. If you still have the Case 1845C could you give me dimensions of the exhaust silencer? Unfortunately this one is missing it. Thanks
Sorry I sold it a long time ago. New aftermarket and factory mufflers are readily available though. Or you could always fab something up there's plenty of room around the exhaust.
Both ways. Rocking the pedal to the left sends it out one hose and rocking it to the right sends it out the other. So for example if you have an auger attached you can spin it in both directions.
I have had an 94, 1840 for about 13 years, I believe they are a better machine then the 1845C, the battery location and drive chain compartments covers are ridiculous on the 1845C !
What is the difference between that machine and the 60xt?? I have a komatsu d 58 dozer I'd like to trade for a skid steer or mini excavator. I have found that the yanmar minis are bullet proof. I wish they made a skid steer like there minis. The only issue I'm concerned about with the case is the drive system with the chain stretching or breaking .
The only major difference is the frame. The final drive setup on the 60xt is actually even better than the 1845C as it's single reduction instead of double. Very simple and robust. The chains can break but it's uncommon. A bigger issue, and the most important thing to know about the XT's, is on the early ones the output shaft bearing spacer on the drive motors would sometimes collapse and let the shaft wobble around and take out the seal. Then they would slowly fill the chain case up with hydraulic oil. The fix from case was to replace the entire motor with an updated one ($$$$), but I believe there is a way to replace just the faulty spacer if you're pretty handy with a wrench. If you're looking at one ask the sell if they've had any trouble with the drive motors. Also I think there is a serial number break on the motor that can tell you if it's good or not but I can't remember what it is. Other than that though they are excellent machines.
I have a question im installing a case drain on my 90 1845c should I plumb back to the tank or or Ive seen them tee into the top of the inlet side of hyd. filter housing?
I am really not sure on that. Best advice I can give would be to get a service manual and plumb it according to the hydraulic schematic. Dumping back into the reservoir seems safe but they might have fed it back into the filter for a reason. Then again teeing into the filter inlet might cause an issue with feeding the filter hot fluid or if the filter goes into bypass or something. Best thing to do is look at the service manual and set it up the way it was designed. You can get them on CD for about 30 dollars or so.
One Thing I've Noticed About Operating A Case Skid steer Loader, With Hand Controls is that, the sequence of operation is seamless, it's like You just think of what You need to do with the Machine and it happens, when I go back to foot controls I have to Re Adjust to the operator Sequence.
The “tee” on the driver side front going to the drive pumps (smaller hose of three on drive pump)is located at the lower rear of my hydrostat pump. Does this seem normal or is maybe because of updated hydrostatic pump?
It's probably just a minor change they made for some reason. Those lines are just the case drains for the drive motors and (I think) the hydraulic oil temperature sensor.
Unfortunately there isn't one. The only thing you can really do is take a hose off the base end of one of the boom cylinders to let the fluid out while you lower the boom with another machine. If it's stuck up though you might be better off pulling the cab forward and figuring out why. Could be something as simple as a broken linkage.
I gave some incomplete/inaccurate information about that. After some research it is my understanding that, a red push button switch on the right hand control lever is for single-directional high flow hydraulics, a black push button switch on the right hand control lever is for a horn, and a toggle switch on the left hand control lever is for uni-directional high flow hydraulics, I'm not sure how case configured the machine if you ordered it with both a horn and single-direction high flow. I'm sure they moved one of the switches to the left hand stick but I don't know which one. I'm also not sure on the color coding as I have heard of red switches being used for horns. It's pretty confusing but if you dig around your machine a bit you can probably figure it out.
Not sure why you would lose power in only one direction. I haven't seen many failures with these hydrostatic systems but the few I know of have been caused by dirt or air getting in and ruining the fine surfaces in the rotating group(s). Assuming you don't have a pressure gauge at your disposal you can swap the drive hoses left to right. If the problem changes sides you know it's the pump. If it stays on the same side it's the motor. Sorry I can't be of more help. It's just tough to diagnose anything without seeing it up close.
@@ke6bnl I'm not sure. I think you could but using a wide tire on a narrow rim would bulge out the tread and give you pretty poor performance. And there could be other issues with bead sealing or interference with the frame or attachments. I would stick with the tire size the wheel was designed for if at all possible.
If you can't get the engine started there's only two things I know to do. Cut a hole in the fender and pull the battery out that way or pick the boom up with something else. It doesn't have to be another loader the boom itself is not that heavy. But however you lift it you will have to disconnect the hydraulic lines on the rod ends of the boom cylinders to let the fluid escape. Good luck!
HEY BROTHER excellent video but you baited me a few times the worst one was opening the cover or sliding the top man i wish you had done that step by step. ive got hydraulic fluid leak and i have to get in there and clean it out and figure out where the leak is. I think the previous owner actually used hydraulic fluid and to my surprise it calls for 10w 30 engine oil thats strange but then depending on the year, i might have to put the expensive additive in HTO. i SPENT HOURS TRYING TO FIND THE YEAR OF MY 1845C ON LINE WITH NO SUCESS #JAF018068. :) ANY BODY GOT THAT ANSWER?? ok so back to the cover sliding back i think i see what needs to be disconnected but how on earth did you move it by hand or another machine and what about the shovel and arms if i try to leave mine up they will be down on my cover in the morning is there a simple way to lock it up while i deal with the inside.. your video really is the best i wish you would do more. thanks for your help
Haha sorry about that. I was trying to keep the video a reasonable length and sliding the cab forward didn't make the cut. I did use a compact tractor and log chain to pull the cab forward after disconnecting the controls and wiring and everything. I think they intended for it to be done by hand but in my case the tracks the cab slides in were so clogged up with grease and dirt and everything that there was no way I could pull it by hand. To keep the loader arms up there is supposed to be a safety strut mounted on top of one of the boom cylinders. They go missing surprisingly often (this one was) but if you have a chunk of large, thick angle iron you can use that instead. I've never been able to figure out how to find the exact year of these machines either sorry. I only know that brown cabs were earlier and gray cabs were later.
This video gave me a lot of good information and answered a lot of my questions. Would love some advice from you! I have the same case 1845c. I’m having issues with the bucket curl. It will curl down, but not up. The only way to get it to curl up is if I put it into float mode first, then it will curl both up and down. Any help appreciated. Thanks!
So are you saying you can lift the front wheels by dumping the bucket or does the bucket only curl with gravity? If the latter I would suspect a problem in the boom circuit of the valve that's only allowing fluid through to the bucket circuit when in float position. Possibly a broken stem or cracked bore. If it's the former (bucket has power dump but not power rollback unless in float) then I am at a loss. Perhaps a gummed up linkage only allowing the title spool to fully stroke when the boom spool is fully stroked (in float)?
Ya, so I am able to curl the bucket down and pick the skid steer front wheels into the air. If I go into float mode then I can curl up. I can even be in float mode and curl up to pick up a pile of gravel. So, I have the power to curl up…. But oddly only in float mode will curling up work.
@@calebediger6596 That is really strange. My best guess is a problem with the control linkage. Something bent, worn, or out of adjustment somehow. I can't conceive of any internal hydraulic problem that would let the bucket only curl one way with the boom in neutral but both ways with it in float.
You won’t believe this, but I went to take the rear bottom plate off to clean it, and when I took it off, one end of a hydraulic hose dropped out. After rewatching your video, I found out it was the supply line to auxiliary hook ups… which I don’t have on this skid. It was capped!!🤦🏻 it sounds like from what you were saying in your video, this will create back pressure and not make things operate correctly?? Will be getting a fitting tomorrow to loop the hose into the return. Does this sound like it would cause the issue I’m having with bucket not wanting to curl?? ***side note- I bought the skid without the tandem pump, so I’ve been having to piece back together someone else’s work!
@@calebediger6596 That's a very common thing on these. With the power beyond port capped off like that the hydraulic fluid is forced over the relief valve all the time. I *think* the only effect this has on the hydraulic system is causing the fluid to rapidly overheat but I'm not positive. Either way saying it "jams up" wasn't a very good explanation. In any case definitely get that line uncapped and plumbed so it will flow back into the return. Or if you want to make it a little neater you can do away with the line and replace the power beyond plug in the valve body with a standard o-ring boss plug of the same size. Either method has the same effect. Let us know what happens.
I just replaced the battery on my !845c.It did not require moving the cab.Remove 2 access panels,cut 2 -63/4'' wood blocks and wedge cab over.(after raising and securing the boom)The old battery can be removed either by sliding toward the rear and lifting out or lifting straight up after tipping.New battery can be installed by tipping on end and rotating into place.Less than an hour start to finish and I've never done one before.
I think I would like to add a connection on the battery with battery cables and Anderson connector to the outside so I could use a jumper or charger to my 1840 to start or charge the battery in the future.
Done these batteries years ago on dead machines with booms down. Take off the muffler at the manifold. Pull old battery back towards rear and lift out by side of engine. Put new battery in the same way. Reattach the muffler n you're done. Really not that bad compared to some other stuff. Use a strap around/under the battery when moving it in and out makes it a one man job.
I would love to say that this video was incredibly helpful, but your voice and the background sounds literally kept putting me to sleep lol. I've restarted this video like 6 times now... thanks for putting in the time and effort for making this video though, I'm sure if I give it a couple more go-rounds I might be able to piece it all together lol.
hello everyone, i have a problem with my case 1845c, could anyone advise me? When I lift the whole loader arm with a spoon, empty or full, it doesn't matter, it lifts up well, but down it goes very very slowly. It always jumps a little up when starting. The spoon can be opened and closed well. When I turn off the engine the loader arm goes down well. If I go down and at the same time open and close the spoon it goes a little lower it faster. Even if the loader arm does not move, the hydraulics sound as if they are hissing, as if the hydraulics are working. At the same time, the right side of the wheel control does not work properly. Please advise what the problem is. The hydraulic fluid is full. Thanks for the reply
I am probably not the best person to answer your question but if i do perhaps other people will get in on it to correct me etc etc but it does sound like you're low on fluid or you have water or you have dirt or something in your hydraulic fluid i would suggest changing your hydraulic fluid and your filter now of course i was surprised to find out that it uses 10W30 oil so this is not really a big expensive project but it really does sound like you have stuff in your hydraulic fluid maybe it's just air i don't know i have opened my lines and i'm sure i have to bleed it somehow but i have not seen anything on line yet that shows me how to do that but since it all returns to a tank that's not pressurized i would imagine all air should be able to be pushed out of it eventually so you might have something blocking ports
@@wanesweb Thanks so much for the answer, you were the only one who answered. I found a guy in my area who serviced these machines, removed the hydraulic switchboard at the end of the rods and found internal damage to a switchboard. Mystery solved. Thanks so much for the help.
I need some help. My 1993 1845c hour meter only has 5 digits. It is 21295. The last digit 5 is in a square by itself but is the same color as the other numbers. Did I get screwed buying a machine with 21k hours! Dear Lord in full panic attack lol.
On the five digit meters the rightmost number displays tenths of an hour. So a reading of 21295 means 2129.5 hours. That being said don't put much stock in the hour meter. They are intended to help keep track of maintenance intervals not to be indicators of condition.
@@AlwaysBored123 Thank you for the quick response. I feel better and can sleep soundly. I will go through it and give it a good check and fluid replacement.
I can't remember exactly what I did but the general idea is to raise the boom all the way up and lock it with the strut, disconnect the linkages for the hand controls, lap bar, and auxiliary pedal, disconnect the cab wiring, unbolt the cab from the frame at the rear (I think) then just carefully slide the cab forward. The only problem I had was the cab slides were gummed up with junk so I had to pull it forward with another machine.
It depends on what you need. Ebay is good for common wear items. For large parts you're best off with the equipment dismantlers on machinery trader and similar. Many of the small parts are standard things that can be had from any good industrial supplier. But anything that isn't and cant be had aftermarket or used you'll have to go to the dealer for or fabricate yourself.
I'm not sure what year that one was. All I can tell you for sure is it's a later machine due to having a gray cab instead of a brown one. They're all pretty similar though.
@@AlwaysBored123 I ended up buying it. I guess I was really concerned it didn't have aux hydraulics but the more I look at it it does seem it might have had them. No foot controlling valve or pedals are there but I see the holders on the arm. I glanced at my control valve and I do remember seeing hydraulic caps on the tee port coming off it. Kind of starting to think it had hydraulics.
@@AlwaysBored123 Well I would like to add front hydraulics. Not 100% sure if it used to have them or not BUT I know something is capped off which you said you shouldn't do. Is the top tee fitting coming straight up the feed? Then what happens if I hook all this up and they took out that piece you were talking about removing. Will the system still function with full pressure?
That is definitely a downside to these Case's. They are difficult to access for service or repair. They changed things around on the models after this to make it significantly easier.
As someone considering a Case 1845C, I found your video to be exceptionally helpful. Thank you for taking the time to go over the machine with us!
You're welcome glad you liked it.
The 1845c was my first machine. I would say probably one of the best models ever built you can get most parts for it from Napa and actually have room to work on it great rigs with the 4bt hard to go wrong.
Damn I didn’t know those cabs slid forward on these. .. after you explained how to do it I definitely won’t bother if I don’t have to.😂
I own an 86 that I bought in 1999 for $9k. I still own it and still work it. It has been one tough little machine and other than a starter and regular maintenance it has served me well. The hour meter never worked since I bought it but it stopped at just under 9000 hours so she pushing some high hours still on the original engine.
The meter stopped at 9k back in '99? Wow! That goes to show what good maintenance can do for a good machine. You just can't beat these Case skid steers with a stick.
Great video thanks ! Im going to look at a older 1845c for mainly snow removal and moving bails and this is just what i needed to see before looking at it. My folks had two of these in the late 80s and early 90s and they seemed to work very well
great thorough video. This was written before I purchased an 1840. And I have to say your video is the best that can be found on youtube. Thanks
This video made me pull the trigger on a case 1845C...after everything I’ve researched it seems to be one of the best made skid steers ever...I’m in love with mine...and just absolutely love how everything is mechanical! This took some time to put this video together...super helpful! Thanks!!
I had one of these machines a case 1845C was probably one of the best skid loader‘s on the market at that time!! Never had any issues with it except regular maintenance it was nearly bulletproof!!
Just bought an 1845c and checked out this video... Great Info, well Narrated, Good Camera work... I think you covered Everything about this machine... Thank You
Great video, helping me learn the case and everything I may have to do for maintenance. Thank you.
I've been searching for a video like this for over an hour- I've never ran a skid steer before in my life but I'm going to look at and possibly purchase a used 1845c tomorrow- this video answered so many questions and was very informative- definitely liked and subscribed.
Thanks for taking the time to post this and educate some of us with your knowledge
You're welcome glad you liked it. Consolidating as much information as I could about these loaders is exactly why I made this video. Good luck with your purchase. If you've never driven one before just remember they are extremely rear-heavy if they don't have a load on the front. They will easily do wheelies unless you're very gentile with the controls.
Hope you bought that machine. That Cummins 4BT is one of the best engines ever put in a skid steer!
Thanks for the indepth review. Been looking for one, glad I got more knowledge on what to look for
Your Videos Are Always Great!
Very well done. Very informative. I have only ever really ran a BC 843 so those controls seem a bit less intuitive, but i like a lot of things about the 1845 better than the BC843.
Time 10:40 ... THANK YOU SO MUCH! I was wondering why my 1845C is so much nicer than all of the competitors. My 1845 is down for replacement of old hydraulic lines and partially pinched hard lines (3). I am temporarily using a Bobcat and it takes a lot of strength to operate the drive wheels. Too much work as it is tiring . Thanks for this video.
Ah, the good OL 4B cummins :) dang near bullet proof! And so nice to swap into an off road trail rig :)
Best JI CASE 1845C video I've seen. All great points. Reminded me of some things I have to address on my 1845C. :) Cliff in Maine
Thanks for watching! About time to break out the tire chains and snow blowers in Maine isn't it?
A nice older machine thanks for sharing.
This was a pretty dadgum good video. Thanks man. Much appreciated.
I watched your video and thought bat battery placement, then took the foot plate out of my 1840 and found the battery right below that in the open. and I went to check the chain oil and mine does not seem to have the covers on top but need to remove the side plate between the tires. some changes in the model from the 1845. thanks for a good video.
Got the same Cummins in my 450c dozer Friend of mine had a Case skid steer like yours Was mad when he sold it but his back was too injured to use it anymore. Going to reseal my Lucas injection pump this week from the dozer Always volunter to help my friends with skid steers, the last thing we did with his case was post holes. Nothing better than getting out in a field and using your skid steer for chores.
Those pumps love to leak for some reason. I agree they are fun to use, and can be hard on your back. I need to get an auger for mine. They're nice on a skid steer since you can unscrew them when you get stuck.
Neat video. Takes me back a few years. I ran one of these back in '89 and '90, during summer break in college. I loved the Case hand controls for the arm & bucket, as opposed to the pedal system on the older Bobcats (and on some 1845s as well).
Love having hand controls for the boom and bucket. My boots don't let my ankles flex enough to run the foot controls on other makes of skid loaders.
Glad to learn about how complicated a battery change is.
Great video. I wish there were more walk around like this. I’m in the market for my first skid steer, looking at a Case 60xt. Thanks for the video.
The 60XT's are great machines. Just check the chaincases to make sure they aren't full of oil from the drive motors leaking. Thanks for watching.
@@AlwaysBored123 Will do, thanks. I literally just found a 1845c with 400 hours. Hmmm, which would be better?
great video from a honest men!
Excellent video. My dad had a concrete business when I was a kid, so I grew up driving Case machines like this one from the time I was about 12 years old. He owned an 1845 Special made in the early 1980s for quite a while, then traded that machine in on a then brand-new 1994 brown cab 1840 (which had the roller-coaster parking brake bar, so must’ve been some overlap on when Case moved away from the split-bar to solid bar design.) Over the years I’ve also driven other Case equipment, such as the 95XT series and the 445, both of which are also great machines that seem to have improved on the overall solid design of these 1845Cs. I haven’t driven any of the newer Cases since they merged with New Holland, so I can’t speak to those, but for the money, these older Cases are tough to beat. I definitely prefer the Case H-pattern controls over some of the other machines I’ve driven (Bobcats, CAT, Mustang, Kubota), but that’s probably just muscle memory due to learning on the Case machines first. Just recently bought some acreage, and I’m hoping to find one of these older Case machines that hasn’t been beaten on too badly for a decent price to help maintain the property. Here’s hoping!
Very cool. The 1845 specials seem to be pretty rare. I'm not sure what the differences between them and the 1845/1845B's were. I've only ever heard great things about the big frame machines like the 90/95xt. I haven't tried any of the new alpha series machines either but I'm dying to. I see they went to a single-shear setup for the bucket pins which is a real shame imo. Now the only manufacturer still offering a double shear setup is Cat I think. Good luck on your search!
I'm selling my city home and paying cash for 25 acres. I'm needing a machine. Thanks, I got this
Excellent video thanks for sharing your knowledge .
Very informative video. Well done.
Thanks man. I need to do another soon.
Thank you. Very well done video.
thanks for the walk around. I cant seem to start mine and was wondering about the fuel lever. so it is ether fast or slow and not off and on. that helps. Son use to keep the equipment up but he is so busy with his work.
Thanks for watching glad it was helpful.
This is an excellent walk around. Very thorough! One question, My auxiliary power is getting weak. Can you explain where the relief valve is for the aux? Boom pressure is great just anything I hook up to auxiliary is weak.
I'm not 100% sure but I believe the relief valve for both the boom and auxiliary is a large hex head plug pointing toward the rear of the machine on the back of the main control valve. If you pause at 17:23 you can just barely see the tip of it poking out there. It may or may not have a round anti-tamper cover on it. You can unscrew it from the main valve body and take a look but usually they never have a problem. You'll need to put a gauge on the pump, valve, etc, to see what's really going on.
GREAT JOB !!!
Keep making videos that was great
Thanks man. I wish I had more time to do it. And more equipment to film lol.
Thank you kind sir the video was excellent i've watched it three times it's an easy way to look around my skid steer LOL because i have the same one but mine is not nearly as clean as yours i have had to dig through concrete and sludge and oil in the bottom to find leaks i've replaced four hoses to the tune of almost $900 ouch and i am narrowing down to where else it is leaking and i cannot quite be sure but it seems like it's coming from where the drive motors mount to the wall i've been looking for seal kits but i saw a guy on RUclips that says you have to buy a new drive motor ouch that will hurt but i've noticed on one side i'm getting the oil water mix coming in which i believe is from the chain case but on the other side it seems like just nice clean oil now this is after i've replaced lines that were definitely bad so i am not sure now if the oil that is coming in from behind the darn i keep forgetting what they're called oh yeah drive motor is leaking from the drive motor or coming in from the chain area another interesting tidbit i changed the oil on one side so that one shouldn't be full of water i'm talking about the chain case because i had to fix the wheel bearing on the other side i know it's still water and oil so on the side with oil and water i'm seeing oil and water seep in and the side with just oil i'm seeing oil seeking i know this might sound confusing i don't know if you have time to even help me with this but you did say you're always bored LOL so you might love to help me with it i don't know
Small leaks like that can be a real pain to track down. The oil with creep along any rough surfaces so finding the origin is basically impossible if it's dirty and rusty. Clean everything off really good then run it for a while and see what you have. If you can't get a complete seal kit you may still be able to order individual replacements from places like Hercules sealing products. Most seals come in standard sizes and designs so getting them one at a time is usually a viable option (albeit a tedious one). The only hoses I would go OEM for are drive hoses for the hydrostatic system. Those really need to be high quality because if they aren't they can potentially ruin the sensitive drive pumps and motors. Everything else I just use cheapo pre made ones.
my buzzer is not connected and wondering if you have a warning light go off will it sound the buzzer? and I think I will add a anderson connector to the batter so I could jump the skid from the outside and or run a maintenance charge on the battery
Its a good video. The info is good. That engine is 100% Cummins the Case industrial engine is much different. Case engine had ether option. Never on a 4B Cummins. Another small but of trivia is the Cummins has Two options for fuel filters. Dual like yours and a single.
Thanks that's interesting.
Very good information, thank you
You're welcome!
If you pull the four bolts to remove the exhaust muffler you can remove the battery through the rear of the machine and you won't have to slide the cab forward.
That's a great tip.
Instead of removing the muffler just raise the loader arms all the way up then take out the battery much simpler and less work I've done that many times just make sure you replace the battery with a group 31 otherwise there won't be enough cold cranking amps to start it the winter
@@tomanderson997 usually starting the machine isnt an option if youre at the point of replacing the battery, sure jumper cables or a jump pack work sometimes but if the battery is shorted itll eat up that juice instead of sending it to the starter.. a battery should always be replaceable with a non running machine or vehicle
I just purchased one of these and it of course needs a little work, Thanks for this video I will be referring to it again I am sure. I am having problems with the drives running equal on each side. Meaning it is always veering to the left when its suppose to be going straight.
Yeah that's most likely a bent, worn, or misadjusted linkage between the control and the pump. Good luck with it!
@AlwaysBored123 That's exactly what we did was adjust the linkage and got it way better. Next I think the starter is pulling way to much juice and making it turn over too slow.
@AlwaysBored123 That's exactly what we did was adjust the linkage and got it way better. Next I think the starter is pulling way to much juice and making it turn over too slow.
@@holzie6723 If you're sure of the battery and connections it's most likely worn brushes in the starter. They're easy enough to replace if you have a pencil torch and some soldering skill. Or any starter repair shop can fix it.
I think for the money and time I will just replace the starter with a new one. Do they make different types that turn over faster than others? @@AlwaysBored123
Parabéns pelo vídeo top!!!
Thank you !!!
Hello friend great video. Should there be any side to side movement where the cylinder connects to the triangle looking part of the arm? Basically I can move the top of the cylinder left and right where the pin connects to the triangle (at the point of the triangle) About to purchase this machine but may negotiate if these are bad bushings. Thank you for any quick information.
Side to side movement is fine and not indicative of wear. Back and forth slop means worn pins and bushings but you probably won't be able to see that without doing some disassembly to isolate the joint and take the pressure off it. The self leveling mechanism usually doesn't take much wear anyway. What you should look closely at are the lowest bushings in the boom where the bucket pivots at and the highest ones where the boom attaches to the frame.
@@AlwaysBored123 Thanks so much for responding. This thing says 1300 hours and the meter is working but I just can't believe it. Of course it has been repainted but I found the old pics and it still looks good. The engine is super clean. It was owned by the city. Just don't know for a 1998.
I hate battery swaps on this machine! But have found that you can remove cab screws and pound it over to the side. No need to move the whole cab forward.
some of those bobcats back in the 70s had a david brown motor
Great video, thank you.
Thanks for watching.
@@AlwaysBored123 My father just picked up one of these, i was wondering if you knew anything about a backhoe attachment for it? He is looking into getting one so ive been trying to find anything i can about this machine
@@wallas0786 IIRC the factory backhoe attachments were the Case D100, D100XR, and D125. Any skid steer backhoe attachment can work provided you can find a way to secure it to the frame of the machine (or at least the loader arms). Without doing that it will buck around when you try to dig and be pretty much unusable.
@@AlwaysBored123 Thank you for your help
I love my case
Great video. Thanks as used the info before buying a case skidsteer. If you still have the Case 1845C could you give me dimensions of the exhaust silencer? Unfortunately this one is missing it. Thanks
Sorry I sold it a long time ago. New aftermarket and factory mufflers are readily available though. Or you could always fab something up there's plenty of room around the exhaust.
Thanks. Live in South Africa so can't get any spares locally. Will fabricate. Thanks for the help.
Does the auxiliary Hydraulic send fluid both ways or just one way. Like one side is high pressure and another is return.
Both ways. Rocking the pedal to the left sends it out one hose and rocking it to the right sends it out the other. So for example if you have an auger attached you can spin it in both directions.
I have had an 94, 1840 for about 13 years, I believe they are a better machine then the 1845C, the battery location and drive chain compartments covers are ridiculous on the 1845C !
I agree the design and layout of components in the 1840s is better than the 1845Cs. I'm glad case continued with those ideas in the later series.
What is the difference between that machine and the 60xt?? I have a komatsu d 58 dozer I'd like to trade for a skid steer or mini excavator. I have found that the yanmar minis are bullet proof. I wish they made a skid steer like there minis. The only issue I'm concerned about with the case is the drive system with the chain stretching or breaking .
The only major difference is the frame. The final drive setup on the 60xt is actually even better than the 1845C as it's single reduction instead of double. Very simple and robust. The chains can break but it's uncommon. A bigger issue, and the most important thing to know about the XT's, is on the early ones the output shaft bearing spacer on the drive motors would sometimes collapse and let the shaft wobble around and take out the seal. Then they would slowly fill the chain case up with hydraulic oil. The fix from case was to replace the entire motor with an updated one ($$$$), but I believe there is a way to replace just the faulty spacer if you're pretty handy with a wrench. If you're looking at one ask the sell if they've had any trouble with the drive motors. Also I think there is a serial number break on the motor that can tell you if it's good or not but I can't remember what it is. Other than that though they are excellent machines.
The reason that the 1845C brings sometimes a few dollars more is because it’s all mechanical. So the average guy can can fix most issues.
I have a question im installing a case drain on my 90 1845c should I plumb back to the tank or or Ive seen them tee into the top of the inlet side of hyd. filter housing?
I am really not sure on that. Best advice I can give would be to get a service manual and plumb it according to the hydraulic schematic. Dumping back into the reservoir seems safe but they might have fed it back into the filter for a reason. Then again teeing into the filter inlet might cause an issue with feeding the filter hot fluid or if the filter goes into bypass or something. Best thing to do is look at the service manual and set it up the way it was designed. You can get them on CD for about 30 dollars or so.
One Thing I've Noticed About Operating A Case Skid steer Loader, With Hand Controls is that, the sequence of operation is seamless, it's like You just think of what You need to do with the Machine and it happens, when I go back to foot controls I have to Re Adjust to the operator Sequence.
Thanks. Yeah it took me a while to learn to use these controls but they are pretty smooth when you get good with them.
The rear mounts break and need welded from twisting the machine while trying to load it
Now i know to switch my battery out because i had to slide cab open to troubleshoot a hydro leak, since im already there anyways
The “tee” on the driver side front going to the drive pumps (smaller hose of three on drive pump)is located at the lower rear of my hydrostat pump. Does this seem normal or is maybe because of updated hydrostatic pump?
It's probably just a minor change they made for some reason. Those lines are just the case drains for the drive motors and (I think) the hydraulic oil temperature sensor.
Preciso d vidio iniante como liga ,cheklist 1845 e os comando
My arms got stuck in the up position and the bucket. Going up but not down. Looking for a release valve or something to get the arms to lower.
Unfortunately there isn't one. The only thing you can really do is take a hose off the base end of one of the boom cylinders to let the fluid out while you lower the boom with another machine. If it's stuck up though you might be better off pulling the cab forward and figuring out why. Could be something as simple as a broken linkage.
@@AlwaysBored123 thank you . Bummer thought they would have something like that.
@@adambacome2687 Most skid steers do but for some reason Case omitted it on the 1800 series.
We have an 1845 loader that runs a gas engine and was made in 1972
Totally different animal almost everything is different between the 1845 and 1845c
Question: I have a 'red' button on the 'right hand' control lever, not the 'left' hand lever - what is that button for???
I gave some incomplete/inaccurate information about that. After some research it is my understanding that,
a red push button switch on the right hand control lever is for single-directional high flow hydraulics,
a black push button switch on the right hand control lever is for a horn,
and a toggle switch on the left hand control lever is for uni-directional high flow hydraulics,
I'm not sure how case configured the machine if you ordered it with both a horn and single-direction high flow. I'm sure they moved one of the switches to the left hand stick but I don't know which one. I'm also not sure on the color coding as I have heard of red switches being used for horns. It's pretty confusing but if you dig around your machine a bit you can probably figure it out.
i lost reverse on one side any idea of the likely culprit?
Not sure why you would lose power in only one direction. I haven't seen many failures with these hydrostatic systems but the few I know of have been caused by dirt or air getting in and ruining the fine surfaces in the rotating group(s). Assuming you don't have a pressure gauge at your disposal you can swap the drive hoses left to right. If the problem changes sides you know it's the pump. If it stays on the same side it's the motor. Sorry I can't be of more help. It's just tough to diagnose anything without seeing it up close.
What tire size do you run on yours ? Do you think 10-16.5 would work?
I use 12x16.5's. 10-16.5 will work but on a loader this size I would stick with 12 inch wide tires for better flotation and traction.
@@AlwaysBored123 Can you put the 12x16.5 on the same rim as the 10x16.5 tires and rims I have now?
@@ke6bnl I'm not sure. I think you could but using a wide tire on a narrow rim would bulge out the tread and give you pretty poor performance. And there could be other issues with bead sealing or interference with the frame or attachments. I would stick with the tire size the wheel was designed for if at all possible.
How long to slide the cab and disconnect For a 1st timer???
seems like a fairly easy machine to work on if u can slide the cab by urself
It depends but maybe 30 minutes to an hour? IIRC you basically just have to unhook the control linkages and wiring and you can pull it forward.
@@AlwaysBored123 oh not bad it it like pulling a greased gate or a gate that isn't greased and u need 5 Ppl lol!?
@@thomaslynch9016 Haha. The former more than the latter I guess.
I need to replace battery, but I can’t get to it because the arms need to be up. What can I do ?
If you can't get the engine started there's only two things I know to do. Cut a hole in the fender and pull the battery out that way or pick the boom up with something else. It doesn't have to be another loader the boom itself is not that heavy. But however you lift it you will have to disconnect the hydraulic lines on the rod ends of the boom cylinders to let the fluid escape. Good luck!
HEY BROTHER excellent video but you baited me a few times the worst one was opening the cover or sliding the top man i wish you had done that step by step. ive got hydraulic fluid leak and i have to get in there and clean it out and figure out where the leak is.
I think the previous owner actually used hydraulic fluid and to my surprise it calls for 10w 30 engine oil thats strange but then depending on the year, i might have to put the expensive additive in HTO. i SPENT HOURS TRYING TO FIND THE YEAR OF MY 1845C ON LINE WITH NO SUCESS #JAF018068. :) ANY BODY GOT THAT ANSWER?? ok so back to the cover sliding back i think i see what needs to be disconnected but how on earth did you move it by hand or another machine and what about the shovel and arms if i try to leave mine up they will be down on my cover in the morning is there a simple way to lock it up while i deal with the inside.. your video really is the best i wish you would do more. thanks for your help
Haha sorry about that. I was trying to keep the video a reasonable length and sliding the cab forward didn't make the cut. I did use a compact tractor and log chain to pull the cab forward after disconnecting the controls and wiring and everything. I think they intended for it to be done by hand but in my case the tracks the cab slides in were so clogged up with grease and dirt and everything that there was no way I could pull it by hand. To keep the loader arms up there is supposed to be a safety strut mounted on top of one of the boom cylinders. They go missing surprisingly often (this one was) but if you have a chunk of large, thick angle iron you can use that instead. I've never been able to figure out how to find the exact year of these machines either sorry. I only know that brown cabs were earlier and gray cabs were later.
This video gave me a lot of good information and answered a lot of my questions. Would love some advice from you! I have the same case 1845c. I’m having issues with the bucket curl. It will curl down, but not up. The only way to get it to curl up is if I put it into float mode first, then it will curl both up and down. Any help appreciated. Thanks!
So are you saying you can lift the front wheels by dumping the bucket or does the bucket only curl with gravity? If the latter I would suspect a problem in the boom circuit of the valve that's only allowing fluid through to the bucket circuit when in float position. Possibly a broken stem or cracked bore. If it's the former (bucket has power dump but not power rollback unless in float) then I am at a loss. Perhaps a gummed up linkage only allowing the title spool to fully stroke when the boom spool is fully stroked (in float)?
Ya, so I am able to curl the bucket down and pick the skid steer front wheels into the air. If I go into float mode then I can curl up. I can even be in float mode and curl up to pick up a pile of gravel. So, I have the power to curl up…. But oddly only in float mode will curling up work.
@@calebediger6596 That is really strange. My best guess is a problem with the control linkage. Something bent, worn, or out of adjustment somehow. I can't conceive of any internal hydraulic problem that would let the bucket only curl one way with the boom in neutral but both ways with it in float.
You won’t believe this, but I went to take the rear bottom plate off to clean it, and when I took it off, one end of a hydraulic hose dropped out. After rewatching your video, I found out it was the supply line to auxiliary hook ups… which I don’t have on this skid. It was capped!!🤦🏻 it sounds like from what you were saying in your video, this will create back pressure and not make things operate correctly?? Will be getting a fitting tomorrow to loop the hose into the return. Does this sound like it would cause the issue I’m having with bucket not wanting to curl??
***side note- I bought the skid without the tandem pump, so I’ve been having to piece back together someone else’s work!
@@calebediger6596 That's a very common thing on these. With the power beyond port capped off like that the hydraulic fluid is forced over the relief valve all the time. I *think* the only effect this has on the hydraulic system is causing the fluid to rapidly overheat but I'm not positive. Either way saying it "jams up" wasn't a very good explanation.
In any case definitely get that line uncapped and plumbed so it will flow back into the return. Or if you want to make it a little neater you can do away with the line and replace the power beyond plug in the valve body with a standard o-ring boss plug of the same size. Either method has the same effect.
Let us know what happens.
I just replaced the battery on my !845c.It did not require moving the cab.Remove 2 access panels,cut 2 -63/4'' wood blocks and wedge cab over.(after raising and securing the boom)The old battery can be removed either by sliding toward the rear and lifting out or lifting straight up after tipping.New battery can be installed by tipping on end and rotating into place.Less than an hour start to finish and I've never done one before.
Good deal thanks for the info.
I think I would like to add a connection on the battery with battery cables and Anderson connector to the outside so I could use a jumper or charger to my 1840 to start or charge the battery in the future.
Done these batteries years ago on dead machines with booms down. Take off the muffler at the manifold. Pull old battery back towards rear and lift out by side of engine. Put new battery in the same way. Reattach the muffler n you're done. Really not that bad compared to some other stuff. Use a strap around/under the battery when moving it in and out makes it a one man job.
I would love to say that this video was incredibly helpful, but your voice and the background sounds literally kept putting me to sleep lol. I've restarted this video like 6 times now... thanks for putting in the time and effort for making this video though, I'm sure if I give it a couple more go-rounds I might be able to piece it all together lol.
Haha. Sorry about that. I'll be sure to be a little more energetic next time.
hello everyone, i have a problem with my case 1845c, could anyone advise me? When I lift the whole loader arm with a spoon, empty or full, it doesn't matter, it lifts up well, but down it goes very very slowly. It always jumps a little up when starting. The spoon can be opened and closed well. When I turn off the engine the loader arm goes down well. If I go down and at the same time open and close the spoon it goes a little lower it faster. Even if the loader arm does not move, the hydraulics sound as if they are hissing, as if the hydraulics are working. At the same time, the right side of the wheel control does not work properly. Please advise what the problem is. The hydraulic fluid is full. Thanks for the reply
I am probably not the best person to answer your question but if i do perhaps other people will get in on it to correct me etc etc but it does sound like you're low on fluid or you have water or you have dirt or something in your hydraulic fluid i would suggest changing your hydraulic fluid and your filter now of course i was surprised to find out that it uses 10W30 oil so this is not really a big expensive project but it really does sound like you have stuff in your hydraulic fluid maybe it's just air i don't know i have opened my lines and i'm sure i have to bleed it somehow but i have not seen anything on line yet that shows me how to do that but since it all returns to a tank that's not pressurized i would imagine all air should be able to be pushed out of it eventually so you might have something blocking ports
@@wanesweb Thanks so much for the answer, you were the only one who answered. I found a guy in my area who serviced these machines, removed the hydraulic switchboard at the end of the rods and found internal damage to a switchboard. Mystery solved. Thanks so much for the help.
I need some help. My 1993 1845c hour meter only has 5 digits. It is 21295. The last digit 5 is in a square by itself but is the same color as the other numbers. Did I get screwed buying a machine with 21k hours! Dear Lord in full panic attack lol.
On the five digit meters the rightmost number displays tenths of an hour. So a reading of 21295 means 2129.5 hours. That being said don't put much stock in the hour meter. They are intended to help keep track of maintenance intervals not to be indicators of condition.
@@AlwaysBored123 Thank you for the quick response. I feel better and can sleep soundly. I will go through it and give it a good check and fluid replacement.
How do you open it up like that?
I can't remember exactly what I did but the general idea is to raise the boom all the way up and lock it with the strut, disconnect the linkages for the hand controls, lap bar, and auxiliary pedal, disconnect the cab wiring, unbolt the cab from the frame at the rear (I think) then just carefully slide the cab forward. The only problem I had was the cab slides were gummed up with junk so I had to pull it forward with another machine.
Do you know where I can buy parts for these machines?
It depends on what you need. Ebay is good for common wear items. For large parts you're best off with the equipment dismantlers on machinery trader and similar. Many of the small parts are standard things that can be had from any good industrial supplier. But anything that isn't and cant be had aftermarket or used you'll have to go to the dealer for or fabricate yourself.
What year is that machine? Looking at a 1845c 1993 year on Tuesday.
I'm not sure what year that one was. All I can tell you for sure is it's a later machine due to having a gray cab instead of a brown one. They're all pretty similar though.
@@AlwaysBored123 I ended up buying it. I guess I was really concerned it didn't have aux hydraulics but the more I look at it it does seem it might have had them. No foot controlling valve or pedals are there but I see the holders on the arm. I glanced at my control valve and I do remember seeing hydraulic caps on the tee port coming off it. Kind of starting to think it had hydraulics.
So that line off the top for the feed comes off a tee fitting. Where does the other line go?
@@Hiperf The other line off the tee fitting just goes back to the reservoir as far as I know. Is that what you're asking?
@@AlwaysBored123 Well I would like to add front hydraulics. Not 100% sure if it used to have them or not BUT I know something is capped off which you said you shouldn't do. Is the top tee fitting coming straight up the feed? Then what happens if I hook all this up and they took out that piece you were talking about removing. Will the system still function with full pressure?
Would you say this is good for snow ?
Yes.
@@AlwaysBored123 that's for the info
You do know your dip stick tube is missing right?
Yeah good eye I did notice that while I was working on it. I have no idea how you were meant to check the oil in this engine.
Hello, how many will lift the most on the pallet
Sorry what?
@@AlwaysBored123 what is the maximum lift capacity
@@DZIQQ-gc1ml It is designed to lift and carry 1,750lbs safely. At 3,545lbs it will tip forward.
That machine looks well built engineered the bobcats are a cluster fukkk of junk
Oh yeah. One day I intend to make a video about bobcat loaders.
Brasil
What a stupid machine to work on a Clark/bobcat skid steer you open the rear door undo 2 bolts and lift the cab back no disconnecting linkages
That is definitely a downside to these Case's. They are difficult to access for service or repair. They changed things around on the models after this to make it significantly easier.
It's not stupid, it's just different. They all have their down sides. There is no one perfect brand out there.