Lighting Ratios for Photo and Video
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- Опубликовано: 8 май 2017
- Master Studio Strobe Lighting: bit.ly/2cuDI6H
Do you know what lighting ratios are? If you're a photographer or videographer you really should! Today on The Slanted Lens I'll be discussing what they are and how to find them.
Be sure to check out the Illuminati Light and Color Wireless Meter I use at their Kickstarter- kck.st/2oQ42fx
Keep those cameras rollin' and keep on clickin'.
-Jay P.
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I could totally see myself having some fun with these. They look cool. But I am used to all of the physical buttons on the 758-DR and could see myself getting frustrated (or at least slowing way down) with an app on my phone's screen and a bluetooth connection.
I would also need to see if it shows a flash-to-ambient contribution (10%, 20%, 30%.....) like the 758. That is one of my favorite pieces of information.
That said, I would love having the color cast information.
JP Morgan recommending an illuminati product. Seriously???? 😂
Great info as always. When looking to re-create an inspiration piece, can you determine the ratio of a shot with any software? Example - my nasty self-portrait, could I determine if it was 8:1? Thanks.
Looks like a great product, nice video thanks for the info!
Thanks Benjamin.
You can get a great Sekonic light meter second hand for well under 200€. Much better.
Hello, Just wondering why you opted to put multiple light meters on stands at a distance of roughly 30cm away from the face and test them all at once rather than holding one between the eyes and taking individual readings and accurately adding ratios... this wont give you an accurate reading and can likely be half a stop to sometimes a stop out.
And just to clarify....... with ratios, there is absolutely correct answers. Thats why we use ratios because it doesn't change.
It was just done for illustrative purposes for the lesson. It gave a true reading to the scene the way it was set up.
nice add.
great way to put it
Thanks Dayton.
I'm drooling over the meters and my dog is drooling over all of the Penns!
So what is the right term? I see people in the cinema world often use 1:2.5 as in the fill side is 2.5 stops lower. Is there right and wrong or just taste?
Antupid I think I was not clear enough. He uses the term 4:1 ratio as in the fill side is 2 stops down. But I know many people that use a diffrent terminology where a 3:1 ratio means the fill side is 3 stops under. what's right whats wrong?
Quick question. If I use negative fill I can increase the ratio from the shadow side. How would I increase the ratio from the bright side? Let’s say I don’t use negative fill and I only have a light source. If I increase the output I know i would have to take a new reading but wouldn’t that also effect the shadow side as well if the light is bouncing back or wrapping around? Would the ratio still be the same just with more output or would the contrast ratio actually change?
Any equivalent exposure is going to give you the same ratio. You have to add or subtract light in some way to change the ratio.
@@TheSlantedLens thanks. About to practice now
If I shot a 1:1 say f8 left, f/8 right, would that mean I'd set the camera to f11 since it's adding another stop? I ask because a great photographer I've encountered sets his key to f/8.6 and the fill to f/5.6 and adds them together and shoots at f/11. Thank you.
hmm interesting. i guess it would depend on what kind of look you're going for.
Hello Darryl,
I just came across this video and your message in regards to f8 on one light and f8 on another creating f11 and that is 100% correct. I was always taught that, that style is called split lighting but I also believe people refer to split lighting as the 2:1, 4:1, 8:1 etc etc ratio system because it is causing a split down the face.
both ways are correct in a way, and here is my very simple way of explaining what we have been told.
1:1 split light is having 2 softboxes at equal distance both reading f8 on the face and together they make f11(or you can have different sized softboxes at different distances both putting out f8 on the face independently to combine to f11) its somewhat the same principle of taking a reflective reading when you are shooting a high key set up and want to have a 2 or 3+ stop difference to you main to achieve the pure white high key backdrop.
Its a little hard to explain in text but ill give it a crack.....essentially if you have 2 lights on your background, each light has a hot spot and they then spill out and drop off light every meter as they go. What you want to do is test each of your background lights hot spots separately and also figure out the drop off of each light and place your lights so that both hot spots are reading the same and that both lights fall offs are combing to create the same value in which your hot spots are putting out.
So if you want to have your main lights at f11 (so f8 on one softbox and f8 on the other etc etc) your hot spots could be reading minimum f32 with the fall off in the middle of your shot being f22. So both lights powered on together would be putting out f32 in the hot spot area and would be combining to make f32 (f22+f22=f32) in the fall off area due to the same principal of f8 on one main and f8 on another makes f11.........
I hope that makes some sense..... it is hard to explain in text with no visuals
Hi JP , I'm still waiting on my 3 . They will make shoots move along more effectively and be more productive .
This feels very much like an advert for a product disguising itself as a tutorial...
Spencer Owen sadly, that's the case with most of his videos these days. His old tutorials are really good, not so brand-specific.FWIW, I think JP is involved with their kickstarter, or at least shot their kickstarter promo.
I don't have issues with people pushing gear that they use or believe in, just be up front about it.
At some point you have to monetize all the work and effort.
Of course and I have no problem with people doing reviews of kit or even sponsered content... Just be honest about it. Don't disguise a paid promotion as a tutorial.
@@neworecneps I agree very much with you. Sometimes people try so hard to hide it, video becomes very long, and tutorials will be really boring. Better say that straight, without bs. It will bring more customers if you are straightforward anyway
This is an infomercial. While some channels provide great content, links to products never bother me because they mostly provide content in 95%, or so of the video length. This one however overtly advertises products disguising themselves as tutorials. JMO.
Making simple things more complicated.. your framing and composition matters more than any fancy tool out there..
There can be lots of approaches to photography.
From my understanding, a 3:1 is actually a 1 stop difference between key and fill.
If key is 2 units of light and fill is 1 unit of light, then (because light is additive) the key side is 2+1=3 and the fill is 1, making it 3:1
If your key is at f/8 and your fill is f/5.6 you will have to shoot at f/8 + 1/2 stop.
So a 2 stop ratio is 4 units key, plus 1 unit fill = 5:1, etc etc.