I like how you covered all the topics in one video. Sadly, I had to do all this research on my own before finding your video, but it's great to hear it from someone else who learned it all and has a working setup! One thing about panning on a non-flat screen, that happens a lot more than I expected. I used to project onto my bedroom wall, and it was extremely obvious the wall wasn't flat when a pan occurred. Now that I have a fixed-frame screen, I don't have that issue. It was really helpful. While you did talk about anamorphic lenses, you didn't talk about curved screens (in this video). I have curved ultrawides and find flat monitors to appear convex these days. While I haven't noticed this with my 120" 16:9 screen, I might notice it with a wall-to-wall screen, especially cinemascope aspect. So I was thinking that'd also be important to cover.
Great, informative video. I like the way you pulled together information from various sources into one, easy to understand video. Anyone starting down the projector path should tune in. Nice job!
That is indeed an issue with pull downs. The higher end ones have a tensioning system to hold them flat. But it would be hard to do that and keep the pull down capability. If having it up full time isn't an issue, you could build a frame and mount the material to that. Depends on the needs of the room and anybody else who wants to use it.
Great informational.....thank you for mentioning alternative coatings. Great strides have been made by myself and others to emulate the performance of higher end screens at only a fraction of the cost and I am doing all that I can to ensure screen sciences are followed given associated environment and projection source. Keep up the good work!
The masks are pretty simple. It's a wood frame designed to fit between the upper and lower frame of the screen. The "secret", if you can call it that, is I have some small neodymium magnets epoxied into the tops of the frames that mate with some screws I put in specific locations in the screen frame itself. It works ok, but I think I should have used either bigger magnets, or a magnet on each side.
Great video and have subscribed to your channel. I have build a 110inch projector screen using an Optoma 141x 1080P projector. Have painted my screen several times (experimenting) at a cost of $10. My base paint is always Metallic Silver and added white and black to get grey colour. My screen material is currently PVC kitchen table cloth, the ones i remember most families used in the 60's and 70's ;-) The PVC table cloth is very smooth which is what i was looking for. Spandex; Just bought a new flat which will be ready in 12 months and planning a 10feet wide by 6ft high new screen making it roughly 135inches. I am thinking about acoustically transparent screen (spandex) on which i still need to do lot of research and decide about speakers (JBL 6377 or Klipsch HTX 525/650 etc...) or just traditional screen (Carl's place) and place the speakers under the screen as oppose to behind the screen. So lot to think of the next 12 months. Will watch your videos and be interested to know your about your Spandex screen and speaker choice/setup. Thanks buddy tiruclips.net/video/IW2Ji1g5N1E/видео.html
I cant see myself going back to a non AT screen at this point. It was always a little immersion breaking ro have the sound coming from below the screen. The problem isn't as bad if you sit further back, but I like to sit about 1 screen width away.
if you don't have a dedicated room and have ambient light, spend MORE and get an ALR screen so you can have white walls, lights on etc. If you have a dedicated treated room, you only need a white screen which means spending less. if you can't afford an ALR screen, get a grey screen or a white screen and paint it.
Thank you so much for taking the time to create your "home theater for the masses" videos. I am currently working on my first dedicated home theater and was taken aback by the sheer volume of information out there regarding: projectors, screens, speakers, subwoofers, seating, room design, acoustics etc. etc. I just didn't know where to start! Your video series took so much stress out of the process. Your explanations are very clear, common sense and thoughtful. Your presentation is great, I wouldn't be at all surprised if you were a teacher or instructor irl. Showing me that it is possible to create a nice home theater without breaking the bank get's me one step closer to having the home theater I have wanted for many years! One small question I have is regarding teh Spandex material. My theater is completely dark so I believe a 0 gain material would be best in it. Does that mean I should go with 2 layers of white spandex? or 1 white and 1 gray? Please keep up the good work!
Buried somewhere in the thread linked below is discussion of white/grey, white/white, white/black. If I recall correctly, with a dimmer projector a white/white combo will reflect more light, whereas a white/black combo will give better contrast. White/grey will be somewhere between. You could try an extra swathe of white or black. It will only cost $30 extra in material so that you can experiment, but since you are in a batcave theater, white/black should probably do pretty well. www.avsforum.com/forum/110-diy-screen-section/1436181-110-diy-spandex-screen.html I'm glad you found these videos helpful! I don't instruct in my day job, it it is a job I could see myself doing.
i have to tell you.... Sir, your video is very pleasant . you are very articulated and knowledgeable. i learned a lot. thank you. i'm subscribing to you channel right now.
I don't have any plans that I used. I just measured several times and cut. The key thing is for the center braces, use washers to get the braces a little further behind the screen. This way they won't create an impression. Also, when doing your calculations, remember to take into account the width of your wood. For example, if you want a 10 foot wide screen and your wood is 3 inches wide, cut 10 feet 6 inches. For your screen, the viewable area will be 127" by 54" so be sure to add the thickness of your wood to those numbers. Good luck!
great video I have been watching videos about screens for a week now and found yours all the questions I had and info was looking for I got answers to in 36min. I'll be going to watch the one about projectors now to make sure I have the right info. If I would have found your videos a week ago I would have bought all my stuff already for sure and not feel overwhelmed by all the different and contradicting information out there. just don't ever put that scare clip at around 21:00 mins I almost had a heart attack.
If looking to use a 2.35 screen and per projector central the throw would work but be at max due to limited room depth available , will that be ok? Or do you need a few more inches of projector placement to expand the 2.35 image? Confused with the zoom out amount required using a lens memory projector on a 2.35 screen.
There are always variables whether from being a little off in measurements or even manufacturing tolerances. If your screen is DIY perhaps don't finalize it until you have the projector on hand and can ensure the image will fill the screen. This way you can make the screen a little smaller if necessary. If you are looking at a fixed frame option, you're a little more limited. I'd check with whomever you are buying the projector from and ensure they have a good return policy if the distance just doesn't work out.
First thx you for the video I just built a flight simulator cockpit in a small room like 10x10 dark room I would like to know what color for the screen grey,white, Black and what Gain I need I have a short throw projector 3000 lumens thx to help.
Great Video with lots of info, but I'm now confused. LOL I bought a short throw projector, and I turned our one car garage into a movie room. Its dark,I have total control of the light and the projector will be mounted 5-7 feet back from the ceiling. Walls are a very dark grey and the ceiling is white. What would you suggest. Seats are about 7 ft away from where the screen would go.
I'm not sure what you're asking when you ask what I would suggest. As far as seating distance? Screen size? Projector mounting distance? It all depends on the exact model of projector. If you use the ProjectorCentral.com calculator, it should be able to tell you exactly where you need to mount it for any given screen size.
How much zoom do you need to run your constant image height setup? I'm researching projectors for my home theater and am trying to figure out what I need ballpark wise. Also I'm considering creating an extra large screen that would only be opened up for variable aspect ratio movies: ex. Dark Knight, Tron legacy, Aquaman. Do you have any thoughts on this? Hypothetically it would involve two sets of black panels for standard 16x9 movies. Does this sound like a dumb idea?
I'm not sure about the zoom off the top of my head. What you need to know is you 16:9 diagonal, and your desired 16:9 diagonal when zoomed out to 2.35:1. When check whichever projector you are interested in against ProjectorCentral's projector calculator to make sure it can project both sizes from where the projector will be mounted. For making an extra large screen for variable aspect movies... what you would probably end up eventually doing is setting the projector at that size and leaving it when you get tired of messing with the panels. Horizontal masking is easy. Vertical masking is a bit trickier, especially if you want it motorized. It can be done, as long as the picture doesn't run into the ceiling or floor, depending on how wide you go. While it is not optimal to lose some parts of the movie in variable aspect ratio movies, you are technically getting one of the theatrical versions of the movie. Variable aspects are shown in IMAX cinemas. But if you watch the movie in a regular cinema... it is masked to 2.35:1. As such, the directors will generally make sure that anything important on the screen stays within that 2.35:1 box, even when the movie is showing 16:9 images.
I haven't seen it personally, bit it looks like a good screen for ultra short throw projectors. The downside is if you decide to go with a different type of projector in the future, the screen probably won't work well, especially with a ceiling mounted projector.
Thanks for your prompt response. I did find an Elite screen (Saker tab-tension, acoustic pro, uhd series.) Has an extra 24" drop down which will put my eye level of the lower third of the screen at about 42". Next, the projector, watched your video, (another excellent video.) Leaning toward the Optoma uhd65. I like the uhz65, debating the extra cost. Do you recommend stand-by power supply in case of power outage? How damaging to the bulb if the fan shuts off suddenly? Would the laser of uhz be affected the same? Thank you.
I thought the screen might have extra black masking on the top, but I couldn't confirm that in the quick perusal of the manual that I did. Good to hear that it does! I do have an UPS for my home theater. (I have a video review on that also - Cyberpower CB1350 ruclips.net/video/KysBEnZUcaw/видео.html ) Is it necessary? It is more for my home theater PC so that it doesn't shut down unexpectedly. However, a projector can be shut down with minimal risk to the bulb as long as you wait for it to completely cool off before attempting to turn it back on.
I just let AVSForum's DIY screen section do the research for me. The Matte Milliskin from SpandexWorld seems to be the consensus last I checked in terms of acoustic transparency and image quality. Here's a link to the thread on AVS with the graphs: www.avsforum.com/forum/110-diy-screen-section/1436181-110-diy-spandex-screen-22.html
What do you think about making a 2:35 : 1, 180 inches but instead of using a black frame, just stretch the material from the outside to make a frameless screen, like in the commercial theaters. ?
I noticed that frameless seems to be a selling point with some screen manufacterers now. It comes down to preference, but I like my movies framed. Theaters do have a "frame", or rather a black backdrop around or behind the screen. The issue with frameless is that unless you have a really good light absorbing background, you need to be *exact* with your projector installation and set-up. If the projector isn't perfectly square with the screen, and you don't get your throw offset just right, the projected image won't fit the screen perfectly. (throw offset isn't something I discussed since it is a bit more down in the weeds. Basically, throw offset is how far the top or bottom of an image is offset from the center of the projector's lens at a given distance.) And so if you don't get your installation perfect (I've never accomplished the perfect install), the picture won't fit the screen perfectly. And so with a frameless screen, you have three options. One would be to project the image slightly too large. If you background doesn't absorb light well, that sliver of light on the back wall could be distracting. Another option is to make the picture slightly smaller. The resulting sliver of unused screen could be equally distracting. The third option is to use keystone correction. This isn't desireable because you lose some of the resolution of the projector. A black frame around the screen gives you a cushion for an imperfect installation. All you have to do is make the picture slightly larger so that it fills the entire screen, and the few rows of pixels that spill off the screen get absorbed by the border so as to become invisible.
So if i understand correctly, for you to view 2.35 content on your 2.35 screen, you zoom the image out and project 'black bars' above and below your screen... this also reduces the resolution of the 2.35 content. Do projectors (that are both good in quality and affordable) have native 2.35 projection where they project without 'black bars' for 2.35 content and with side 'black bars' (on a 2.35 screen) for 16x9 content? I agree with you, in not wanting to make movies look smaller than your TV content. The AVRant guys, however, are big on using a 16x9 screen due to all of the scope ratio variations and that sometimes aspect ratios changes mid-movie (like Batman Dark Night Rises). All considered would you go with a 2.35 screen or a 16x9 screen if you will your content will be 50/50 2.35 and 16x9, but you are more concerned with the impact of the 2.35 content? Thanks, really appereciate the video!
I should probably do a video about this. Yes, I zoom the image out using the mechanical lens zoom, not digital zoom. This way, I am not actually losing any resolution. While it is true that the pixels will appear larger since the entire picture is bigger, it is using the same resolution either way. Just with the picture zoomed out, the black bars are projected above and below the screen, and since I have a black velvet surround, the bars do not show up. Less expensive projectors may have a poor enough black floor that you could see the "grey bars" above and below the picture, especially if you don't have a black surround for your screen. There is a way to use the full panel resolution, and that is to use an anamorphic lens. However, those are very expensive... $4000+ just for a lens. This requires a projector that will do an "anamorphic stretch", that is, to stretch the 2.35:1 image vertically so that it fills the entire panel. The lens will then either stretch the picture horizontally, or squish it vertically (depending on the lens) to restore the picture to proper geometry. The benefit of this is the overall image is brighter because you are using pixels that normally would have projected black bars to create the image. The disadvantage is you could suffer chromatic abberation if you get a cheap lens, which negates the benefit of having a "higher resolution" because of the full use of the panel. As far as native 2.35:1 projectors, I am unaware of any. There were some 2.35:1 televisions, but those didn't last long. Also, it is true that some movies can't decide which aspect ratio they want to use (generally movies that were filmed for iMAX) However, the main action is generally kept to the 2.35:1 frame, so as long as there aren't subtitles, you won't lose out on much. And so while I would lose out on the 16:9 content, these movies that flip flop around are less common, so it is a compromise I am willing to make.
@@FamilyHomeTheater Thank you for your thorough response!! I completely understand now! I am, however, now having a hard time grasping the benefits of a 2.35 screen over a 16x9 screen. In my installation, and I suspect many others, I am limited by screen width, not height. So lets say you have have 10' of width to use for your screen, in this case your scope movies will be 10' wide regardless of screen ratio chosen. However with a 16x9 screen you will also have a 10' wide image with 16x9 content too, whereas the 16x9 image will be closer to 8' wide on a 2.35 screen (since it will need zoomed in). With a 2.35 screen installed, scope image will "feel" wider (because it is relative to the 16x9 content), but in reality the scope image width will be equal on each screen, 10' wide. Image brightness wise, the 2.35 content should be equal between the two as well, and the 16x9 content would be brighter on the 2.35 screen since it is zoomed in. Do i have this right or am I missing something here?
@@tilt7799 That is pretty much correct. The only thing missing is the issue of masking your screen. If you do a 10' wide 16'9 screen, you have to mask the top and bottom. Well, you don't have to, but it will look better if you do. It is much easier to mask left and right than it is to mask top and bottom. I have seen top/bottom masking systems, but they are more complex. The other potential issue is how close the top and bottom of the screen is to the floor. And so if you have kids like I do, they may end up casting a shadow when you watch 16:9 content.
The spandex milliskin you have linked in the description, what is the gain if 2 layers of the white are used? I just picked up a JVC DLA-X790R and have it in light controlled room and really want to build a 2.35:1 150"ish hopefully.
@@FamilyHomeTheater ok cool, I will probably order some and see how it goes. Been looking at screen innovations 1.3 gain acoustic screens but don't want to spend the $$$ before I make sure I really want 2.35:1 screen. Awesome videos btw!!
I like your videos! I might disagree with maybe 2% of ur topics but I think you have some great information! Could you make a video just showing your theater? It looks really nice and I know you have put a lot of time and thought into it! I see a little of it in every video! Please share and keep up the videos
I've been considering doing a theater tour sometime soon. Hopefully within the next couple months. Thanks for positive comments! Yes, I definitely could be wrong on some of these things. When I research before doing videos, I sometimes come across things that challenge what I thought was correct. Sometimes things slip through... like $2000 DLP projectors being native 4K.
Hi can you suggest me I have LG Au810 4k laser projector, I am currently looking for better screen I use projector in night time I am confused between white or grey
When your projector displays black, are you happy with how black it is? (I. Reality it would be a dark grey). If the black floor bothers you, try a gray screen. (You can usually ask for samples of screen material). Gray willake the whole picture a little dimmer, but if you don't have a problem with brightness, a gray screen could be what you need.
@@FamilyHomeTheater dark scene are not good enough but outdoor scene are incredible very vibrant and detailed I haven't used white screen so far right now I made screen myself with silver grey screen material which I think a little bit reflective I see a lot of sparkle
i have a question......i can get black out cloth that is white on one side and black on the other side...will this work great to use for a screen..?....
It should work just fine. I had a blackout cloth screen, but it wasn't black on the back but it worked fine. I don't think the black back would hurt anything. If anything it might actually help.
Thanks for the very comprehensive information, has to be the best on RUclips. I worked in the CinemaScope era in professional theatre when the screens had a distinct curve. Would it not add a pro look if home theatre screens, in particular 2.35:1 screens had a slight curve. Any thoughts on this? Congrats again on a very good video.
Thanks! Some people do curve their screens, but depending on the projector lens,this could cause some light spill off the edges. I think the reason theaters curved their screen was because if the screen was flat the edges would be out of focus. It may also have something to do with how the lens is designed. Its been a while since I looked into curving a screen, but I know I decided not to do it.
I was reminded of curved screens when I saw these large curved TV sets and monitors that are now available in the stores. When viewed reasonably close they do give an almost 3D effect. But its quickly lost as you move back. I guess for a projector the curve would be a radii from the lens to the screen so that every part of the screen is the same distance from the lens.
Good afternoon again sir, So First I want to thank you so much for getting back to me on my last comment. So I Am thinking about getting the 1080p Projector because as I stated last time 99.9% of what I watch is in that rez. Here is the thing I am not at all handy so I was hoping you would be willing to help me. So I am not sure the best projector to go with under $600? Again My room is about 13.5 feet from back wall to front viewing area, and 15ft wide. My living room is open to the kitchen and I have a window directly behind the viewing area that will need to be blacked out. Then I have a Window directly behind my seating area again I will have black out shades for, but then I have 2 windows in my kitchen. I was wondering if I wanted a 115 inch screen what would my frame dimentions be? Then aslo the best material to use for screen that wouold have a good ALR on it? I Am willing to spend $200 on everything for the screen not including black out shades that would be an additional cost. Also My screen will need to mount infront of the said window behind the viewing area? I know this is a loaded question but the best looking and quality screen I can build for this budget would be helpful for any advise you are willing to offer? Thank you agian so much for everything! I hope you have a great day!
The viewable screen dimension would be 100"x56.25". Technically, this yields 114.7347", but its easier to measure out 100x56.25 than to measure out 100.23119" x 56.38004". For screen, if you want to go DIY, you can buy blackout cloth from a fabric store and stretch that across a frame. This will give you a gain of 1 and will cost maybe 100 after buying the cloth, wood, screws, brackets, and other miscellaneous bits and pieces. If you want a premade screen, a fixed frame screen would be your least expensive option. Unfortunately, you probably won't find any ambient light rejecting material that would actually work in that price range. You could go with a grey screen. This will lower the black level and make the picture look a little better with ambient light. To be clear, I haven't actually auditioned various screen materials, so there may be a decent ambient light rejecting option out there for under $200. But I would be skeptical of it.
In those cases, the top and bottom of the image is either projected above and below the screen, or in the case of one using an anamorphic lens, the top and bottom of the image is cropped off. Less than ideal. An unfortunate side effect of directors catering to imax.
They are basically wood frames covered in black velvet. In the top there is a neodymium magnet epoxies in, and it makes with screws inside the screen frame to hold them in place. If I did it over, I'd use larger magnets so they are a bit more secure.
I'll tell u all a fantastic projector screen material that is the same as $120£ bought screens and are seen all over countryside. Just go ask ur local supermarket if u can have one when they have finished with it as they invariably end up in skip once the promotions have ended. Its even been known for some less moral minded to not ask, however I don't endorse, condone or suggest this method. So.,..if u goto any supermarket or garage in UK or USA u will see large pvc/vinyl advertising screens in 16.9 and 235. They have items from inside the store printed on them or the price of petrol or advertisements concerning dates. The reverse however is white. And the material has the standardised small pixels on it the same as bought sheets. Many are affixed to metal pole screens which unscrew from the walls, holdings.. Others are held via the holes around the edges..these make excellent and huge screens for your projector and are actually exactly the same material as bought d.i.y screens, next time u see one take a good look and ull see this for urself.. Some are a few feet whilst the larger ones can be 120,150 inch upto 10, 20 foot.. Limited only by the application of the store.
What screen size would be best suited to my room . Dimension of my room (13'×18')? I want to experiance the movies like cinema scope screen....need ur feed back
If you use the full 18' length of your room, you could easily go wall to wall if you wanted to. But if you do that, you will either want bookshelf speakers to put under the screen, you would want to make an acoustically transparent screen. But even if you brought the screen 3' from the wall, reducing your available throw distance to roughly 13-14 feet (depending on the physical size of the projector you get), you may not be able to get much wider than 10'. One other thing to know with a 2.35:1 cinemascope screen is that you will really want a projector with motorized zoom, lens shift, and lens memory. If your budget is under $5K, I'd check out the JVC X790R for $4000. If your budget is over $8K, the JVC NX7. If your budget is less than $4000, the Epson 5040UB would be one to consider ($2250ish), although it has a longer throw, so you won't be able to go as wide. (About 115" is your maximum width at 13') If your budget is even lower, then you'll have to live with manually adjusting the zoom and position of whichever projector you get when you view movies or shows at differing aspect ratios. Hope this helps!
I don't see any issue with 4K on a diy spandex screen. To be clear, I don't have a 4K projector (yet), but the weave of the spandex is very fine, and I don't think it will adversely effect the clarity of the image in any major way.
If we go by the THX guideline of 1.5 screen widths seating distance, an 82" screen would be recommended. However, if you get 4K, you can easily sit closer than that without seeing pixelation. I think the THX recommendation is more based on image aesthetics. I prefer a larger screen, personally. If you want to go more for 1 screen width, you would need a 124" screen to achieve that. So anywhere in the 82" to 124" range is good for a 9' seating distance.
I have this Xgimi Cc Aurora and the pic is awesome. I wouldnt go lesser than 80 inch coz it deceive the purpose of having wide screen. If my screen is 60 inch, i rather get a tv. Thanks for your info
Sorry, it was a accident. But great video. I will be using your info for future reference. I am going to have to wait for a projector and screen. Since I just purchased a LG OLED65C7P 6 months ago. The wife would not go for it now I am sure. It is definitely the WAF.
In that price range, it looks like both Silver Ticket and Elite offer a 1.1 gain screen. I haven't had hands-on experience with either of their fixed frame products, so I can't comment on which one I think is better constructed. I'd probably stay away from any grey screens. They only have a gain of roughly .85, and with an entry level LED projector, you'll need all the gain you can afford. So I'd stick with the white.
Family White TV Thank you. I've learned more from your videos than any other places I've looked. Great informative videos. Thanks again for the advice.
Planning on a home theater system and in researching the necessary information found your video very helpful and informative. Was considering the Elite Vmax2 100". With 9' ceilings, the bottom of the screen (ceiling mounted) would be about 4' off the floor. With the recommended eye level to the bottom 1/3 of the screen, I would be about 28" too high. All things considered, is this too much? Seating distance from screen is 12' to 13'. Your recommendations? Thank you sir.
You have a couple options. You can wall mount the screen at the height that works best for you. Or, you could use a couple chains to lower the chassis to the appropriate level. If you go the chain route, get a couple of turnbuckles so that you can get the screen perfectly level. You can usually find them at any hardware store.
Joseph Sterling. You are going the route that I am considering with the Elite Vmax2.. Please share your thoughts when your project is completed. Thanks!
Changed my mind on the Elite Vmas2 and went with the Elite Saker Tab-tension AcousticPro UHD. Has an extra 24" drop which solved my high ceiling problems. Didn't want to put my center channel below the bottom of the screen and the acoustic props of the Saker answered that issue. Received the screen Sat. and mounted it today (ceiling). Install was pretty straight forward (two person). You have 6 options of operation. Works and looks great. Super quiet! Haven't got the projector yet! Hopefully tomorrow. Went with the Optoma UHZ65. Watched "TVS Pro" comparison and decided to step up from the UHD65. Going to use the Omnimount PJBT40 to hang the projector. Also got the Yardmaster 2 (110 inch) another great design from Elite. Will update you on how all this comes together.
The only screen i have ever used is a beaded screen. And why do people have a dedicated room, then only fill half the wall. Just get the biggest screen you can. I'm sat 8 feet from a 9 foot screen and cannot see the 1080 pixels.
Sir please help, I Have projector LG HU80KA 4K and, I have the CINE GREY Elite screen, and the gain is 1.0, so when I project it on the screen the image brightness is really dim the contrast sharpness is really good but, it’s not that bright even tho my room is completely dark, and when I project it on my white ceiling the image looks really bright and sharpness everything looks fine . So I’m confused now what to do now what screen should I get and what gain ??? Please help sir
That projector is an ultra short throw projector. The problem could be your screen is not designed for UST. According to the manufacturer, the Cine Grey has an 160 degree viewing angle which means it will reject some light striking it at high angles. To see if this is the issue, gently tape a piece of paper to the screen and see if the image on the paper is noticeably brighter. If it is, you may want to play with projector positioning to see if you can get it to shine more directly at the screen. Normally a grey screen has negative gain, .85 or so. This one is coated to bring it's gain back up to 1. With a long throw projector, this is fine. But not with an ultra short throw. Hope this helps. Good luck!
i wanted to write you let you know you are inspiring people. i had never thought of having a home theatre before seeing your videos popup in my recommended feed. a few months later i have a used panasonic ae7000 for 600 cnd a atmos av receiver and a bunch of used speakers from craigslist and i’m working on buying my cih screen from spandex right now. it will be 120 inch wide 2.35. i love the lens memory of the projector and the quality is amazing. i only have one question. what ratio did you make your screen as 2.35 is not a truly the standard i see some blu rays are 1920 800 2.4. some are 804 and some are 816. what would you recommend should i make it 2.4 or 2.39 or 2.35?
Wow, welcome to the world of home theater! You will enjoy the hobby! I would say 2.4 is your best bet. Ideally you will have some way to mask off the sides of your screen for viewing material that is not quite as wide. Technically, there have been movies filmed in 2.89:1. How the West was Won is one of them, and the blu-ray version is actually presented with this ratio as an option. However, these movies are so few and far between that 2.4:1 is sufficient for probably 99.9% of the available content.
Family White TV thx for the answer. one other question i just bought the fabric so far i have just been showing on a grey wall. and i’m going to build a false wall like yours. i got 3 yards of white and 3 of grey. how much stretch should i put in the spandex like if my screen is 120 inch wide should i cut the fabric at 100 inch or 110? also what type of wood did you use for your frame thx.
For the wood, I'm actually not sure. I used the straightest stuff I could find at Home Depot that didn't cost a ton of money. For the fabric, what I actually did is stretched it first, and then cut off the excess. One thing to know is no matter how much you stretch it, the wrinkles won't come out. For that job, you just need to use a hairdryer. The hairdryer will take the wrinkles right out. Here's my video on that if you haven't seen it already: ruclips.net/video/Rgnb6oTUJqU/видео.html
:D dude 21:17 wtf, that was soo fucked up. Btw i just now noticed that you are using green screen, i though you are just sitting in your home theater, added some noise to make it look not a static image, or just filmed it for 1 min and loop it. Very good info, thanks for these series. Really like them. I just have to save quite a bit of money to make one of my dreams come true.
Yup, I was wondering how far I could get before being called out for a green screen. Didn't help that I forgot to wrap my chair back. I shot a bunch of video while I was at home, and I'm away for a bit. The room I'm in now doesn't look nice, so I'm green screening it for now. I'll be home soon and won't have to resort to the green screen any more.
Can you please tell me which paint and colour is your wall as I really liked that. Awesome informative video, usually I skip or FF a lot of videos but not this one 👌 And yeah you should also consider directing some horror movies 😱
From what I've read, the reason JVC doesn't have native 4K as of yet is because they haven't been able to achieve the black levels they want with the 4K panels. So the JVC has a deeper absolute black level, but a pixel shifted 4K image that is not as good as a native 4K image, whereas the Sony has a native 4K image, but not as good an absolute black level as the JVC models, and costs a bit more than the JVC if one needs to have lens memory.
I am just starting out with all my cinema stuff and I’m now going to projector does it make a difference on how much you spend on a screen regarding picture quality coming from your projector hope you can help many thanks
Like anything else, there is a point of diminishing returns you you spend a lot more to get something a little better. I haven't been able to do a comparison, but I'd guess that if you get a screen by Da Lite or Draper, it would be pretty good. If you spent a lot more and got a Stewart screen, it would probably be a little better. Pricewise, Stewart's website lists a 120" wide cinemascope screen using their de-facto standard Studiotk 130 material at $3,146. A similar gain Da-Lite screen would be about $2264. A 1.1 gain Silver Ticket screen from Amazon costs $420. So, is the Da LIte $1800 better than the Silver Ticket? Is the Stewart $900 better than the Da Lite? If we're talking pure image quality, I can't say, unfortunately. The best you can do is request screen samples from the manufacturers you are interested in and test them out with your setup. Do you see the screen's texture from your seating distance? Does the screen appear to be a different color from the other samples? If ambient light rejection or acoustic transparency is important to you, your price for a screen just went up. If you want anything other than a fixed frame, that also increases the price. But if you are willing to DIY, you can save a few hundred dollars by buying raw screen material from manufactuers who sell raw material and attach it to a frame yourself. But just remember - if you have kids, are they old enough to not mark on your expensive screen?
The evil part was dumb as hell, Im here listening to this monotoned guy, learning something good and then i get scared shitless out of no where. No bueno guy.
Watched this all the way through falsely believing there was going to be discussion about different types of DIY screen material... but the only things mentioned were bed sheets, black out cloth and spandex. No mention of any real "made for screen" material... SUCKS.
I used to have a home theater but now movies just suck . But have fun if you enjoy watching boss bitch"s beating up men. Or two dudes kissing. Or people telling you how evil it and stupid you are if you believe in God.
![Eminem - Fuel (feat. JID) [Official Lyric Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/t5H_CewqpKA/mqdefault.jpg)
I've searched RUclips far and wide you have the absolute best most comprehensive tutorial out there
This was the single greatest video on this subject that I've seen; thank you!
This was the most comprehensive video I've seen in awhile. Great info! Thanks
Best video I've watched on PJ screens by a long shot.
I like how you covered all the topics in one video. Sadly, I had to do all this research on my own before finding your video, but it's great to hear it from someone else who learned it all and has a working setup!
One thing about panning on a non-flat screen, that happens a lot more than I expected. I used to project onto my bedroom wall, and it was extremely obvious the wall wasn't flat when a pan occurred. Now that I have a fixed-frame screen, I don't have that issue. It was really helpful.
While you did talk about anamorphic lenses, you didn't talk about curved screens (in this video). I have curved ultrawides and find flat monitors to appear convex these days. While I haven't noticed this with my 120" 16:9 screen, I might notice it with a wall-to-wall screen, especially cinemascope aspect. So I was thinking that'd also be important to cover.
Uve turned something that seemed real simple in my head into popping my brain and bleeding my ears. Thanks for that.
Great, informative video. I like the way you pulled together information from various sources into one, easy to understand video. Anyone starting down the projector path should tune in. Nice job!
Wow, nicely put together. Thanks for taking the time to share all the info
Best tutorial on RUclips
this video was great until that evil part, scared the heck out of me man.
nice to see you here. 9 Months later. love your vids man.
wtf i'm shook... i had just alt/tabbed into the video at 3:00 am and he did that @_@
scared the hell out of me...lol
that evil part made me chuckle
21:15 crapped myself thanks : ) I have a 100" elite pulldown keeps curling inwards on the edges of the screen any ideas?
That is indeed an issue with pull downs. The higher end ones have a tensioning system to hold them flat. But it would be hard to do that and keep the pull down capability.
If having it up full time isn't an issue, you could build a frame and mount the material to that. Depends on the needs of the room and anybody else who wants to use it.
Same.
Mate just buy some velcro double sided..
21:15 i was definitely not expecting that, crapped the hell out of me
First RUclips video that is truly excellent and professionally done.
Ultra short throw (UST) projector + Ambient Light Rejecting (ALR) screens are a new trend and look great. You should do a video on it
Definitely the best video on the subject, great work man. Thank you
Great informational.....thank you for mentioning alternative coatings. Great strides have been made by myself and others to emulate the performance of higher end screens at only a fraction of the cost and I am doing all that I can to ensure screen sciences are followed given associated environment and projection source. Keep up the good work!
Hello, What projector and 120 in. ambient light rejecting fixed frame would you recommend for watching sports in a living room? Thanks
Very helpful & Informative. Thanks
Love the video. Would love to see something specifically on your masking system. wanting to make one like it myself.
The masks are pretty simple. It's a wood frame designed to fit between the upper and lower frame of the screen. The "secret", if you can call it that, is I have some small neodymium magnets epoxied into the tops of the frames that mate with some screws I put in specific locations in the screen frame itself. It works ok, but I think I should have used either bigger magnets, or a magnet on each side.
Great video and have subscribed to your channel. I have build a 110inch projector screen using an Optoma 141x 1080P projector. Have painted my screen several times (experimenting) at a cost of $10. My base paint is always Metallic Silver and added white and black to get grey colour. My screen material is currently PVC kitchen table cloth, the ones i remember most families used in the 60's and 70's ;-)
The PVC table cloth is very smooth which is what i was looking for.
Spandex;
Just bought a new flat which will be ready in 12 months and planning a 10feet wide by 6ft high new screen making it roughly 135inches. I am thinking about acoustically transparent screen (spandex) on which i still need to do lot of research and decide about speakers (JBL 6377 or Klipsch HTX 525/650 etc...) or just traditional screen (Carl's place) and place the speakers under the screen as oppose to behind the screen. So lot to think of the next 12 months.
Will watch your videos and be interested to know your about your Spandex screen and speaker choice/setup.
Thanks buddy
tiruclips.net/video/IW2Ji1g5N1E/видео.html
I cant see myself going back to a non AT screen at this point. It was always a little immersion breaking ro have the sound coming from below the screen. The problem isn't as bad if you sit further back, but I like to sit about 1 screen width away.
21:15 : this was scarier than most horror movies i know
if you don't have a dedicated room and have ambient light, spend MORE and get an ALR screen so you can have white walls, lights on etc.
If you have a dedicated treated room, you only need a white screen which means spending less.
if you can't afford an ALR screen, get a grey screen or a white screen and paint it.
Thank you so much for taking the time to create your "home theater for the masses" videos. I am currently working on my first dedicated home theater and was taken aback by the sheer volume of information out there regarding: projectors, screens, speakers, subwoofers, seating, room design, acoustics etc. etc. I just didn't know where to start! Your video series took so much stress out of the process. Your explanations are very clear, common sense and thoughtful. Your presentation is great, I wouldn't be at all surprised if you were a teacher or instructor irl. Showing me that it is possible to create a nice home theater without breaking the bank get's me one step closer to having the home theater I have wanted for many years! One small question I have is regarding teh Spandex material. My theater is completely dark so I believe a 0 gain material would be best in it. Does that mean I should go with 2 layers of white spandex? or 1 white and 1 gray? Please keep up the good work!
Buried somewhere in the thread linked below is discussion of white/grey, white/white, white/black. If I recall correctly, with a dimmer projector a white/white combo will reflect more light, whereas a white/black combo will give better contrast. White/grey will be somewhere between.
You could try an extra swathe of white or black. It will only cost $30 extra in material so that you can experiment, but since you are in a batcave theater, white/black should probably do pretty well.
www.avsforum.com/forum/110-diy-screen-section/1436181-110-diy-spandex-screen.html
I'm glad you found these videos helpful! I don't instruct in my day job, it it is a job I could see myself doing.
i have to tell you.... Sir, your video is very pleasant . you are very articulated and knowledgeable. i learned a lot. thank you. i'm subscribing to you channel right now.
Im buying the Optoma P1 UST 4k projected .. I don't have a lot of outside light.. I want a 110" screen. Any screen you would recommend for a DYI Job
Great video! Looking at building a 138" 2.35:1 fixed screen myself. Any chance you can share your build plans you used for your screen?
I don't have any plans that I used. I just measured several times and cut. The key thing is for the center braces, use washers to get the braces a little further behind the screen. This way they won't create an impression.
Also, when doing your calculations, remember to take into account the width of your wood. For example, if you want a 10 foot wide screen and your wood is 3 inches wide, cut 10 feet 6 inches.
For your screen, the viewable area will be 127" by 54" so be sure to add the thickness of your wood to those numbers.
Good luck!
Is there a bracket that allows a large screen to be manually raised/flipped up?
Only if you DIY it. Perhaps use some large gate hinges. Or go with a retractable screen.
great video I have been watching videos about screens for a week now and found yours all the questions I had and info was looking for I got answers to in 36min. I'll be going to watch the one about projectors now to make sure I have the right info. If I would have found your videos a week ago I would have bought all my stuff already for sure and not feel overwhelmed by all the different and contradicting information out there.
just don't ever put that scare clip at around 21:00 mins I almost had a heart attack.
If looking to use a 2.35 screen and per projector central the throw would work but be at max due to limited room depth available , will that be ok? Or do you need a few more inches of projector placement to expand the 2.35 image? Confused with the zoom out amount required using a lens memory projector on a 2.35 screen.
There are always variables whether from being a little off in measurements or even manufacturing tolerances. If your screen is DIY perhaps don't finalize it until you have the projector on hand and can ensure the image will fill the screen. This way you can make the screen a little smaller if necessary.
If you are looking at a fixed frame option, you're a little more limited. I'd check with whomever you are buying the projector from and ensure they have a good return policy if the distance just doesn't work out.
First thx you for the video I just built a flight simulator cockpit in a small room like 10x10 dark room I would like to know what color for the screen grey,white, Black and what Gain I need I have a short throw projector 3000 lumens thx to help.
Great Video with lots of info, but I'm now confused. LOL I bought a short throw projector, and I turned our one car garage into a movie room. Its dark,I have total control of the light and the projector will be mounted 5-7 feet back from the ceiling. Walls are a very dark grey and the ceiling is white. What would you suggest. Seats are about 7 ft away from where the screen would go.
I'm not sure what you're asking when you ask what I would suggest. As far as seating distance? Screen size? Projector mounting distance? It all depends on the exact model of projector. If you use the ProjectorCentral.com calculator, it should be able to tell you exactly where you need to mount it for any given screen size.
really informative video
How much zoom do you need to run your constant image height setup? I'm researching projectors for my home theater and am trying to figure out what I need ballpark wise. Also I'm considering creating an extra large screen that would only be opened up for variable aspect ratio movies: ex. Dark Knight, Tron legacy, Aquaman. Do you have any thoughts on this? Hypothetically it would involve two sets of black panels for standard 16x9 movies. Does this sound like a dumb idea?
I'm not sure about the zoom off the top of my head. What you need to know is you 16:9 diagonal, and your desired 16:9 diagonal when zoomed out to 2.35:1. When check whichever projector you are interested in against ProjectorCentral's projector calculator to make sure it can project both sizes from where the projector will be mounted.
For making an extra large screen for variable aspect movies... what you would probably end up eventually doing is setting the projector at that size and leaving it when you get tired of messing with the panels. Horizontal masking is easy. Vertical masking is a bit trickier, especially if you want it motorized. It can be done, as long as the picture doesn't run into the ceiling or floor, depending on how wide you go.
While it is not optimal to lose some parts of the movie in variable aspect ratio movies, you are technically getting one of the theatrical versions of the movie. Variable aspects are shown in IMAX cinemas. But if you watch the movie in a regular cinema... it is masked to 2.35:1. As such, the directors will generally make sure that anything important on the screen stays within that 2.35:1 box, even when the movie is showing 16:9 images.
What do you think about the clr screens for ultra short throw projectors from elitescreens? Thanks in advance!
I haven't seen it personally, bit it looks like a good screen for ultra short throw projectors. The downside is if you decide to go with a different type of projector in the future, the screen probably won't work well, especially with a ceiling mounted projector.
Awesome job M8. Just subscribed
Thanks for your prompt response. I did find an Elite screen (Saker tab-tension, acoustic pro, uhd series.) Has an extra 24" drop down which will put my eye level of the lower third of the screen at about 42". Next, the projector, watched your video, (another excellent video.) Leaning toward the Optoma uhd65. I like the uhz65, debating the extra cost. Do you recommend stand-by power supply in case of power outage? How damaging to the bulb if the fan shuts off suddenly? Would the laser of uhz be affected the same? Thank you.
I thought the screen might have extra black masking on the top, but I couldn't confirm that in the quick perusal of the manual that I did. Good to hear that it does!
I do have an UPS for my home theater. (I have a video review on that also - Cyberpower CB1350 ruclips.net/video/KysBEnZUcaw/видео.html ) Is it necessary? It is more for my home theater PC so that it doesn't shut down unexpectedly. However, a projector can be shut down with minimal risk to the bulb as long as you wait for it to completely cool off before attempting to turn it back on.
Acoustically transparent screens are the way to go. You can do DIY but need to do a lot of experimentation before going into ordering the materials.
I just let AVSForum's DIY screen section do the research for me. The Matte Milliskin from SpandexWorld seems to be the consensus last I checked in terms of acoustic transparency and image quality. Here's a link to the thread on AVS with the graphs:
www.avsforum.com/forum/110-diy-screen-section/1436181-110-diy-spandex-screen-22.html
What do you think about making a 2:35 : 1, 180 inches but instead of using a black frame, just stretch the material from the outside to make a frameless screen, like in the commercial theaters. ?
I noticed that frameless seems to be a selling point with some screen manufacterers now. It comes down to preference, but I like my movies framed. Theaters do have a "frame", or rather a black backdrop around or behind the screen.
The issue with frameless is that unless you have a really good light absorbing background, you need to be *exact* with your projector installation and set-up. If the projector isn't perfectly square with the screen, and you don't get your throw offset just right, the projected image won't fit the screen perfectly. (throw offset isn't something I discussed since it is a bit more down in the weeds. Basically, throw offset is how far the top or bottom of an image is offset from the center of the projector's lens at a given distance.) And so if you don't get your installation perfect (I've never accomplished the perfect install), the picture won't fit the screen perfectly. And so with a frameless screen, you have three options. One would be to project the image slightly too large. If you background doesn't absorb light well, that sliver of light on the back wall could be distracting. Another option is to make the picture slightly smaller. The resulting sliver of unused screen could be equally distracting. The third option is to use keystone correction. This isn't desireable because you lose some of the resolution of the projector.
A black frame around the screen gives you a cushion for an imperfect installation. All you have to do is make the picture slightly larger so that it fills the entire screen, and the few rows of pixels that spill off the screen get absorbed by the border so as to become invisible.
good job lighting yourself.. couldn't tell you were sitting in front of a green screen 32:57
So if i understand correctly, for you to view 2.35 content on your 2.35 screen, you zoom the image out and project 'black bars' above and below your screen... this also reduces the resolution of the 2.35 content. Do projectors (that are both good in quality and affordable) have native 2.35 projection where they project without 'black bars' for 2.35 content and with side 'black bars' (on a 2.35 screen) for 16x9 content? I agree with you, in not wanting to make movies look smaller than your TV content. The AVRant guys, however, are big on using a 16x9 screen due to all of the scope ratio variations and that sometimes aspect ratios changes mid-movie (like Batman Dark Night Rises). All considered would you go with a 2.35 screen or a 16x9 screen if you will your content will be 50/50 2.35 and 16x9, but you are more concerned with the impact of the 2.35 content? Thanks, really appereciate the video!
I should probably do a video about this.
Yes, I zoom the image out using the mechanical lens zoom, not digital zoom. This way, I am not actually losing any resolution. While it is true that the pixels will appear larger since the entire picture is bigger, it is using the same resolution either way. Just with the picture zoomed out, the black bars are projected above and below the screen, and since I have a black velvet surround, the bars do not show up. Less expensive projectors may have a poor enough black floor that you could see the "grey bars" above and below the picture, especially if you don't have a black surround for your screen.
There is a way to use the full panel resolution, and that is to use an anamorphic lens. However, those are very expensive... $4000+ just for a lens. This requires a projector that will do an "anamorphic stretch", that is, to stretch the 2.35:1 image vertically so that it fills the entire panel. The lens will then either stretch the picture horizontally, or squish it vertically (depending on the lens) to restore the picture to proper geometry. The benefit of this is the overall image is brighter because you are using pixels that normally would have projected black bars to create the image. The disadvantage is you could suffer chromatic abberation if you get a cheap lens, which negates the benefit of having a "higher resolution" because of the full use of the panel.
As far as native 2.35:1 projectors, I am unaware of any. There were some 2.35:1 televisions, but those didn't last long.
Also, it is true that some movies can't decide which aspect ratio they want to use (generally movies that were filmed for iMAX) However, the main action is generally kept to the 2.35:1 frame, so as long as there aren't subtitles, you won't lose out on much. And so while I would lose out on the 16:9 content, these movies that flip flop around are less common, so it is a compromise I am willing to make.
@@FamilyHomeTheater Thank you for your thorough response!! I completely understand now!
I am, however, now having a hard time grasping the benefits of a 2.35 screen over a 16x9 screen. In my installation, and I suspect many others, I am limited by screen width, not height. So lets say you have have 10' of width to use for your screen, in this case your scope movies will be 10' wide regardless of screen ratio chosen. However with a 16x9 screen you will also have a 10' wide image with 16x9 content too, whereas the 16x9 image will be closer to 8' wide on a 2.35 screen (since it will need zoomed in). With a 2.35 screen installed, scope image will "feel" wider (because it is relative to the 16x9 content), but in reality the scope image width will be equal on each screen, 10' wide. Image brightness wise, the 2.35 content should be equal between the two as well, and the 16x9 content would be brighter on the 2.35 screen since it is zoomed in. Do i have this right or am I missing something here?
@@tilt7799 That is pretty much correct. The only thing missing is the issue of masking your screen. If you do a 10' wide 16'9 screen, you have to mask the top and bottom. Well, you don't have to, but it will look better if you do. It is much easier to mask left and right than it is to mask top and bottom. I have seen top/bottom masking systems, but they are more complex.
The other potential issue is how close the top and bottom of the screen is to the floor. And so if you have kids like I do, they may end up casting a shadow when you watch 16:9 content.
@@FamilyHomeTheater Thanks so much!
The spandex milliskin you have linked in the description, what is the gain if 2 layers of the white are used? I just picked up a JVC DLA-X790R and have it in light controlled room and really want to build a 2.35:1 150"ish hopefully.
I haven't been able to measure it, but the gain should be 1 or a little under 1.
@@FamilyHomeTheater ok cool, I will probably order some and see how it goes. Been looking at screen innovations 1.3 gain acoustic screens but don't want to spend the $$$ before I make sure I really want 2.35:1 screen. Awesome videos btw!!
Adam Jarvis hey did you try the spandex? I am looking into trying this.
I like your videos! I might disagree with maybe 2% of ur topics but I think you have some great information! Could you make a video just showing your theater? It looks really nice and I know you have put a lot of time and thought into it! I see a little of it in every video! Please share and keep up the videos
I've been considering doing a theater tour sometime soon. Hopefully within the next couple months. Thanks for positive comments!
Yes, I definitely could be wrong on some of these things. When I research before doing videos, I sometimes come across things that challenge what I thought was correct. Sometimes things slip through... like $2000 DLP projectors being native 4K.
Hi can you suggest me I have LG Au810 4k laser projector, I am currently looking for better screen I use projector in night time I am confused between white or grey
When your projector displays black, are you happy with how black it is? (I. Reality it would be a dark grey). If the black floor bothers you, try a gray screen. (You can usually ask for samples of screen material). Gray willake the whole picture a little dimmer, but if you don't have a problem with brightness, a gray screen could be what you need.
@@FamilyHomeTheater dark scene are not good enough but outdoor scene are incredible very vibrant and detailed I haven't used white screen so far right now I made screen myself with silver grey screen material which I think a little bit reflective I see a lot of sparkle
i have a question......i can get black out cloth that is white on one side and black on the other side...will this work great to use for a screen..?....
It should work just fine. I had a blackout cloth screen, but it wasn't black on the back but it worked fine. I don't think the black back would hurt anything. If anything it might actually help.
@@FamilyHomeTheater ok great thank you
awesome presentation Sir
Thanks for the very comprehensive information, has to be the best on RUclips. I worked in the CinemaScope era in professional theatre when the screens had a distinct curve. Would it not add a pro look if home theatre screens, in particular 2.35:1 screens had a slight curve. Any thoughts on this? Congrats again on a very good video.
Thanks!
Some people do curve their screens, but depending on the projector lens,this could cause some light spill off the edges. I think the reason theaters curved their screen was because if the screen was flat the edges would be out of focus. It may also have something to do with how the lens is designed. Its been a while since I looked into curving a screen, but I know I decided not to do it.
I was reminded of curved screens when I saw these large curved TV sets and monitors that are now available in the stores. When viewed reasonably close they do give an almost 3D effect. But its quickly lost as you move back. I guess for a projector the curve would be a radii from the lens to the screen so that every part of the screen is the same distance from the lens.
How much is it?
Ben Hur was like, 3 to 1 right?
Good afternoon again sir, So First I want to thank you so much for getting back to me on my last comment. So I Am thinking about getting the 1080p Projector because as I stated last time 99.9% of what I watch is in that rez. Here is the thing I am not at all handy so I was hoping you would be willing to help me. So I am not sure the best projector to go with under $600? Again My room is about 13.5 feet from back wall to front viewing area, and 15ft wide. My living room is open to the kitchen and I have a window directly behind the viewing area that will need to be blacked out. Then I have a Window directly behind my seating area again I will have black out shades for, but then I have 2 windows in my kitchen. I was wondering if I wanted a 115 inch screen what would my frame dimentions be? Then aslo the best material to use for screen that wouold have a good ALR on it? I Am willing to spend $200 on everything for the screen not including black out shades that would be an additional cost. Also My screen will need to mount infront of the said window behind the viewing area? I know this is a loaded question but the best looking and quality screen I can build for this budget would be helpful for any advise you are willing to offer? Thank you agian so much for everything! I hope you have a great day!
The viewable screen dimension would be 100"x56.25". Technically, this yields 114.7347", but its easier to measure out 100x56.25 than to measure out 100.23119" x 56.38004".
For screen, if you want to go DIY, you can buy blackout cloth from a fabric store and stretch that across a frame. This will give you a gain of 1 and will cost maybe 100 after buying the cloth, wood, screws, brackets, and other miscellaneous bits and pieces.
If you want a premade screen, a fixed frame screen would be your least expensive option. Unfortunately, you probably won't find any ambient light rejecting material that would actually work in that price range. You could go with a grey screen. This will lower the black level and make the picture look a little better with ambient light.
To be clear, I haven't actually auditioned various screen materials, so there may be a decent ambient light rejecting option out there for under $200. But I would be skeptical of it.
What happens to anamorphic projection when films have changes in aspect ratio during the movie?
In those cases, the top and bottom of the image is either projected above and below the screen, or in the case of one using an anamorphic lens, the top and bottom of the image is cropped off.
Less than ideal. An unfortunate side effect of directors catering to imax.
Can you explain how you made the masking panels for 16x9 viewing? Thanks!
They are basically wood frames covered in black velvet. In the top there is a neodymium magnet epoxies in, and it makes with screws inside the screen frame to hold them in place. If I did it over, I'd use larger magnets so they are a bit more secure.
I'll tell u all a fantastic projector screen material that is the same as $120£ bought screens and are seen all over countryside. Just go ask ur local supermarket if u can have one when they have finished with it as they invariably end up in skip once the promotions have ended. Its even been known for some less moral minded to not ask, however I don't endorse, condone or suggest this method. So.,..if u goto any supermarket or garage in UK or USA u will see large pvc/vinyl advertising screens in 16.9 and
235. They have items from inside the store printed on them or the price of petrol or advertisements concerning dates. The reverse however is white. And the material has the standardised small pixels on it the same as bought sheets. Many are affixed to metal pole screens which unscrew from the walls, holdings.. Others are held via the holes around the edges..these make excellent and huge screens for your projector and are actually exactly the same material as bought d.i.y screens, next time u see one take a good look and ull see this for urself.. Some are a few feet whilst the larger ones can be 120,150 inch upto 10, 20 foot.. Limited only by the application of the store.
Great video. Lots of information for home cinema. Thanks for sharing knowledge :D
great video
What screen size would be best suited to my room . Dimension of my room (13'×18')? I want to experiance the movies like cinema scope screen....need ur feed back
If you use the full 18' length of your room, you could easily go wall to wall if you wanted to. But if you do that, you will either want bookshelf speakers to put under the screen, you would want to make an acoustically transparent screen. But even if you brought the screen 3' from the wall, reducing your available throw distance to roughly 13-14 feet (depending on the physical size of the projector you get), you may not be able to get much wider than 10'.
One other thing to know with a 2.35:1 cinemascope screen is that you will really want a projector with motorized zoom, lens shift, and lens memory. If your budget is under $5K, I'd check out the JVC X790R for $4000. If your budget is over $8K, the JVC NX7. If your budget is less than $4000, the Epson 5040UB would be one to consider ($2250ish), although it has a longer throw, so you won't be able to go as wide. (About 115" is your maximum width at 13') If your budget is even lower, then you'll have to live with manually adjusting the zoom and position of whichever projector you get when you view movies or shows at differing aspect ratios.
Hope this helps!
Thanks for scaring the living daylights out of me!
Hi, great video! What’s your take on a 4K projector on a diy spandex screen?
I don't see any issue with 4K on a diy spandex screen. To be clear, I don't have a 4K projector (yet), but the weave of the spandex is very fine, and I don't think it will adversely effect the clarity of the image in any major way.
Family White TV thanks for the reply 👊🏽
Lots of good info.
Thanks.
God Bless
My distance to the screen is 9 ft (275 cm). Whats the recommended screen size ?
If we go by the THX guideline of 1.5 screen widths seating distance, an 82" screen would be recommended. However, if you get 4K, you can easily sit closer than that without seeing pixelation. I think the THX recommendation is more based on image aesthetics. I prefer a larger screen, personally. If you want to go more for 1 screen width, you would need a 124" screen to achieve that. So anywhere in the 82" to 124" range is good for a 9' seating distance.
I have this Xgimi Cc Aurora and the pic is awesome. I wouldnt go lesser than 80 inch coz it deceive the purpose of having wide screen. If my screen is 60 inch, i rather get a tv. Thanks for your info
Family White
Sorry, it was a accident. But great video. I will be using your info for future reference.
I am going to have to wait for a projector and screen. Since I just purchased a LG OLED65C7P 6 months ago. The wife would not go for it now I am sure. It is definitely the WAF.
What do you recommend for a 100in screen for around $200? I'm thinking about Silver Ticket or Elite screens. TIA
In that price range, it looks like both Silver Ticket and Elite offer a 1.1 gain screen. I haven't had hands-on experience with either of their fixed frame products, so I can't comment on which one I think is better constructed.
I'd probably stay away from any grey screens. They only have a gain of roughly .85, and with an entry level LED projector, you'll need all the gain you can afford. So I'd stick with the white.
Family White TV Thank you. I've learned more from your videos than any other places I've looked. Great informative videos. Thanks again for the advice.
Planning on a home theater system and in researching the necessary information found your video very helpful and informative. Was considering the Elite Vmax2 100". With 9' ceilings, the bottom of the screen (ceiling mounted) would be about 4' off the floor. With the recommended eye level to the bottom 1/3 of the screen, I would be about 28" too high. All things considered, is this too much? Seating distance from screen is 12' to 13'. Your recommendations? Thank you sir.
You have a couple options. You can wall mount the screen at the height that works best for you. Or, you could use a couple chains to lower the chassis to the appropriate level. If you go the chain route, get a couple of turnbuckles so that you can get the screen perfectly level. You can usually find them at any hardware store.
Joseph Sterling. You are going the route that I am considering with the Elite Vmax2.. Please share your thoughts when your project is completed. Thanks!
Changed my mind on the Elite Vmas2 and went with the Elite Saker Tab-tension AcousticPro UHD. Has an extra 24" drop which solved my high ceiling problems. Didn't want to put my center channel below the bottom of the screen and the acoustic props of the Saker answered that issue. Received the screen Sat. and mounted it today (ceiling). Install was pretty straight forward (two person). You have 6 options of operation. Works and looks great. Super quiet! Haven't got the projector yet! Hopefully tomorrow. Went with the Optoma UHZ65. Watched "TVS Pro" comparison and decided to step up from the UHD65. Going to use the Omnimount PJBT40 to hang the projector. Also got the Yardmaster 2 (110 inch) another great design from Elite. Will update you on how all this comes together.
Sounds like fun! Getting stuff installed and up and running is always great fun. Its always exciting to try out new gear!
Lol the evil part was awesome 😂
Fucks sake. Scared the absolute shit out of me. Fuck. Thought I was having a psychotic episode. Jeeeeeez. Well done. Bastard.
The only screen i have ever used is a beaded screen.
And why do people have a dedicated room, then only fill half the wall. Just get the biggest screen you can.
I'm sat 8 feet from a 9 foot screen and cannot see the 1080 pixels.
Amazing good information keep it up
Around 15m the guy in black appearing behind is very off.. Thought was some serial killer broke in..
Great videos. Truly great stuff
Sir please help, I Have projector LG HU80KA 4K and, I have the CINE GREY Elite screen, and the gain is 1.0, so when I project it on the screen the image brightness is really dim the contrast sharpness is really good but, it’s not that bright even tho my room is completely dark, and when I project it on my white ceiling the image looks really bright and sharpness everything looks fine . So I’m confused now what to do now what screen should I get and what gain ??? Please help sir
That projector is an ultra short throw projector. The problem could be your screen is not designed for UST. According to the manufacturer, the Cine Grey has an 160 degree viewing angle which means it will reject some light striking it at high angles. To see if this is the issue, gently tape a piece of paper to the screen and see if the image on the paper is noticeably brighter. If it is, you may want to play with projector positioning to see if you can get it to shine more directly at the screen.
Normally a grey screen has negative gain, .85 or so. This one is coated to bring it's gain back up to 1. With a long throw projector, this is fine. But not with an ultra short throw.
Hope this helps. Good luck!
FW TV no LG hu80ka is not short throw projector it’s a laser projector but not short throw
@@noumanjamshaidali4078 Is it this one?
www.projectorcentral.com/LG-HU80KA.htm
FW TV yes sir sorry I’m borthering you but I don’t know who to ask for help and ur professional so that’s why I’m askon
FW TV yes this is the projector so what should I do get a white screen ? And what gain please suggest me something
i wanted to write you let you know you are inspiring people. i had never thought of having a home theatre before seeing your videos popup in my recommended feed. a few months later i have a used panasonic ae7000 for 600 cnd a atmos av receiver and a bunch of used speakers from craigslist and i’m working on buying my cih screen from spandex right now. it will be 120 inch wide 2.35. i love the lens memory of the projector and the quality is amazing. i only have one question. what ratio did you make your screen as 2.35 is not a truly the standard i see some blu rays are 1920 800 2.4. some are 804 and some are 816. what would you recommend should i make it 2.4 or 2.39 or 2.35?
Wow, welcome to the world of home theater! You will enjoy the hobby!
I would say 2.4 is your best bet. Ideally you will have some way to mask off the sides of your screen for viewing material that is not quite as wide. Technically, there have been movies filmed in 2.89:1. How the West was Won is one of them, and the blu-ray version is actually presented with this ratio as an option. However, these movies are so few and far between that 2.4:1 is sufficient for probably 99.9% of the available content.
Family White TV thx for the answer. one other question i just bought the fabric so far i have just been showing on a grey wall. and i’m going to build a false wall like yours. i got 3 yards of white and 3 of grey. how much stretch should i put in the spandex like if my screen is 120 inch wide should i cut the fabric at 100 inch or 110? also what type of wood did you use for your frame thx.
For the wood, I'm actually not sure. I used the straightest stuff I could find at Home Depot that didn't cost a ton of money.
For the fabric, what I actually did is stretched it first, and then cut off the excess. One thing to know is no matter how much you stretch it, the wrinkles won't come out. For that job, you just need to use a hairdryer. The hairdryer will take the wrinkles right out. Here's my video on that if you haven't seen it already:
ruclips.net/video/Rgnb6oTUJqU/видео.html
This is good stuff!
:D dude 21:17 wtf, that was soo fucked up. Btw i just now noticed that you are using green screen, i though you are just sitting in your home theater, added some noise to make it look not a static image, or just filmed it for 1 min and loop it. Very good info, thanks for these series. Really like them. I just have to save quite a bit of money to make one of my dreams come true.
Yup, I was wondering how far I could get before being called out for a green screen. Didn't help that I forgot to wrap my chair back. I shot a bunch of video while I was at home, and I'm away for a bit. The room I'm in now doesn't look nice, so I'm green screening it for now. I'll be home soon and won't have to resort to the green screen any more.
Can you please tell me which paint and colour is your wall as I really liked that.
Awesome informative video, usually I skip or FF a lot of videos but not this one 👌
And yeah you should also consider directing some horror movies 😱
Valspar matte 49494 base C Indigo from Lowes.
At 32 seconds in, why does your hand mysteriously disappear???? Why are you green screening?
Because at the time I was away from home for a while, so I couldn't record in my theater. So I learned to Chromakey... with limited success.
Yup scared me a bit there 🤣
The Sony ES 385 4k comes with lens memory and costs $7000. Still a huge hole in the pocket
From what I've read, the reason JVC doesn't have native 4K as of yet is because they haven't been able to achieve the black levels they want with the 4K panels. So the JVC has a deeper absolute black level, but a pixel shifted 4K image that is not as good as a native 4K image, whereas the Sony has a native 4K image, but not as good an absolute black level as the JVC models, and costs a bit more than the JVC if one needs to have lens memory.
I am just starting out with all my cinema stuff and I’m now going to projector does it make a difference on how much you spend on a screen regarding picture quality coming from your projector hope you can help many thanks
Like anything else, there is a point of diminishing returns you you spend a lot more to get something a little better. I haven't been able to do a comparison, but I'd guess that if you get a screen by Da Lite or Draper, it would be pretty good. If you spent a lot more and got a Stewart screen, it would probably be a little better. Pricewise, Stewart's website lists a 120" wide cinemascope screen using their de-facto standard Studiotk 130 material at $3,146. A similar gain Da-Lite screen would be about $2264. A 1.1 gain Silver Ticket screen from Amazon costs $420. So, is the Da LIte $1800 better than the Silver Ticket? Is the Stewart $900 better than the Da Lite? If we're talking pure image quality, I can't say, unfortunately. The best you can do is request screen samples from the manufacturers you are interested in and test them out with your setup. Do you see the screen's texture from your seating distance? Does the screen appear to be a different color from the other samples?
If ambient light rejection or acoustic transparency is important to you, your price for a screen just went up. If you want anything other than a fixed frame, that also increases the price. But if you are willing to DIY, you can save a few hundred dollars by buying raw screen material from manufactuers who sell raw material and attach it to a frame yourself.
But just remember - if you have kids, are they old enough to not mark on your expensive screen?
"Ben Hur" is at 2.76:1 aspect ratio.
31:36 glitch in the matrix. Great info! Thanks for sharing!
32:57 green screen...?
The evil part was dumb as hell, Im here listening to this monotoned guy, learning something good and then i get scared shitless out of no where. No bueno guy.
About Projector Screens
Just paint your wall light gray it will look better than a 2000 dollar screen
Wow that scared the shit out of me. Not cool, but very thorough and informative video
Thanks for almost give me a heart attack
Yeeaahhh.....warning even three times didn't help. Jeebus. You owe me some new undies!
21:15 thank me latter
Lol
Watched this all the way through falsely believing there was going to be discussion about different types of DIY screen material... but the only things mentioned were bed sheets, black out cloth and spandex. No mention of any real "made for screen" material... SUCKS.
damn you scared me.
man the 21:15 bit... please don't do that again. Great video otherwise
I used to have a home theater but now movies just suck . But have fun if you enjoy watching boss bitch"s beating up men. Or two dudes kissing. Or people telling you how evil it and stupid you are if you believe in God.
That's true enough. But there are a lot of older movies that are still great and worthy of the big screen.
Very informative. Thanks.