Building a Box End Assembly
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- Опубликовано: 15 окт 2024
- A strong and simple end assembly for wire fences. Step by step build including the suggested dimensions and materials.
Buy chain strainers here amzn.to/2KvR8lf
My video showing the strainer knot is here • Fencing Knots 3 The ...
Normally we have the rail a little lower ( so the top wire runs on top ) then when you put the longer rod in you can leave it sticking out a few inches and the diagonal straining wire sits on top of the rod on that end thus eliminating the need for a staple
Thanks for sharing your knowledge Tim! Just built my first 2 Box Ends with your video for guidance..very rewarding
bloody legend. so informative and helpful for us city folks pretending to be farmers
That is extremely useful - I was taught to brace with a short post and another full post diagonally from top to bottom - this is far better, easier and cheaper. Thanks a million mate.
Awesome videos mate! I’ve just learnt the hard way! Strained it up and over tightened it! Now have posts on a lean buggering up my gates! I have a more to do, but nothing beats hands on experience! Keep them coming Tim!
Braces are done great.. For me my posts are a minimum of 4 ft in the ground on a two post brace. 2' in the ground would not ever work. Maybe 1or 2 wire fence. Most of the time I go 1 corner post 4' in the ground and then the 2 brace post would be 3' in the ground. Great channel on fencing.thanks for sharing.
Agree -- In soft ground I use a 9' post 5' in the ground. - My 7 plain wire fences, strained up with a gauge to recommended wire tension take some holding - the addition of a bottom rail makes for a strong end assembly
That fence stretching is a great tool. I need to invest in one of them.
Thanks Tim, these videos are awesome. Quite a few slightly different variations on the box ends. This looks like the least fiddly way I've seen it done. Can't wait to give it a go.
Hey Tim, hope you are well and thanks for all of the informative videos over the years, they have been very helpful!
I thought it would be a good time and beneficial for your channel to do a redo of this box assembly and maybe the difference, pros/cons of a “H” brace assembly, understanding the ideal location for the horizontal post & where the straining wire should ideally be located?
Thanks again & keep up the good work Tim!
Marcus, would you believe that it’s coming soon! Travelling atm so will be a few weeks. Might be controversial…..
@@FarmLearningTim I like the sound of that … looking forward to it!
I love your videos and work Tim. Very educational and helpful to an amateur fencer,
In Idaho this is what most people do. We call it an H-brace. A lot of ranchers (myself included) are going to pipe (used oil pipe) and concrete for our braces. Lasts a lot longer!
Great explanation Tim! Only thing that can be improved is that the posts should be concrete so they will never need to be replaced! and no drilling is required! Good explanation of the ratio and dimensions of the diagonal, the strainer and the stay brace! Very useful video!
Depending on the ground condition a lot of the concert post around heresy over over time
Nice video Tim. I used box ends in our small vineyard. More square than yours here and yes, the end posts have jacked out on some rows. I now know why, albeit 18 years on.
Awesome video - clear and easy to understand. I'm meeting my neighbour later today to follow the instructions provided in this video. Cheers!
Hi, I’m using 100x100 hardwood post for chain wire. Fence sections are around 30m long. I am intending to use another 100x100 post on an angle concreted into the ground for the end assembly. In my lack of experience, do you think that single brace will be ok or I setting myself up for problems when the wires are strained… should I do a box end assembly instead?
Hi Tim... Thank you so much for these clear and concise instructional fencing video's which, I have been religiously researching as I am planning to build my own fence for 2 pygmy goats and a sheep (completely by myself, lol). I liked your method of building a H brace as it removes the need for chiselling but I just had one query about the type and length of the pin you used to secure the top rail to the the stay and end post? I am from the UK and no one is very helpful when it comes to DIY endeavours, and all seem to think I'm crazy for attempting it myself but I really want to try and am very determined to do so. Hopefully, I will be successful🙏
Wait for this weekend’s video for an updated end assembly video. I use 10mm reo for the pins.
I built a box end and it seems very stable. Only problem is when I strained the wire stay the strainer post pushed back an inch or so and now my gate doesn't quite fit perfectly. Did i over strain the stay? How much will the post pull back when I strain the fence or will it not pull back much at all.
Yes. Very little. Adjust your gate hinge.
Love ya page mate all the tips are the best bud.🤠...ever come to Northland nz I'll show ya round our farms cheers.🤸
Hi Tim, what size holes and steel rod is best for these end assemblies ?
You said ...."the top rail needs to be longer than the posts are out of the ground" Is it more accurate to say that the strainer wire needs to be at an angle of 45 degrees or less (relative to the ground). ? I am asking this to find out if I can use an end assembly for my orchard exclusion posts where I can have the strainer wire above head height. I don't want stays or wire impeding mowing etc.
General consensus is you need a 1:2.5 ratio at minimum between the hypotenuse and adjacent end post. Close to the ground as possible. That’s your pivot point. If you want to be 300 above ground ( where your dropper line is normally located) I would suggest even longer as you are above pivot. Orchard and vineyard trellis often breaks the rules due to practicality. I can confirm that going lower is not a good idea. My posts have moved a bit. I will be going higher (above the rail on the inside but still low on end) I will be doing a video on this…. Where are you located?
@@FarmLearningTim I am near Orbost Vic. I have a small 40 acre cattle property (still waiting for my new cows) and I am going to set up a veggie patch and an orchard (approx. 25 M x 34 M) that completely excludes larger birds (like blackbirds) etc and wildlife (wombats, foxes, deer, kangas) The orchard will become my chook run. The top netting will be light weight wire netting as opposed to the normal fabric bird netting as I have had this type of netting failing in past setups. Because of the extra weight I need the perimeter posts (3.6 M high) to be well braced without rigid stays or stay wires from impeding mowing etc (both inside and outside) Hopefully. 😃Thanks for your reply Tim...as a 'newy' to the farm life I have been getting a lot of info from your channel.
Love your work Tim!
It needs to be level with the ground and run between the wires not level on a level unless the ground is level
Merch suggestion: how about a printed brochure/poster A4 that shows how to tie the main fencing knots? I could laminate one and keep in the ute for when I have a brain fart & don't have mobile coverage to watch your RUclips for the 10th time 😁
Thanks mate for this great information - helped a lot on my 44 acres.
What diameter steel rod do you use for securing the rail please Tim?
10mm reo will work fine. Check out my more recent video on this topic. Steel Vs Timber Fence End Assemblies
ruclips.net/video/JjRikuWik-k/видео.html
We fence for alpacas here so our fences are 1200 high, i have been putting my top staple for the stay wire just above the rod that goes all the way through, that's more inline with our top wire, it's not to close to the post top to be weak but i'm curious why do you say below top rail for the staple?
Cheers
Hi Tim, great videos. One question- when building a fence & end assembly on sloping ground do you have the top rail horizontal or parallel to the ground?
run it with the ground mate.
Hi Tim. Great vids. Very easy to watch.
Looking at putting a fence around my (very) small orchard. Would 3m posts for box end assembly set 1m deep be ok? I want a nice high fence to keep foxes away from my chooks when I let them in the orchard. The top rail 3m long work ok?
Tim Thompson. Yep makes perfect sense. Thanks a heap. It’s really appreciated. As mentioned before, I love all the videos. Great practical content without all the advertising and arrogance of some others. KEEP IT UP!!
I've seen some double box end assembly.
What are the benefits of those and do you have any videos?
Hi mate. Yes often used in cracking black clays. Where a lot of movement is expected. If done correctly they are very durable
Hi Tim, love all your videos. I've noticed that all of the (very) old box end assemblies out our way (darling downs) actually have a piece of timber in between the stay wires in order to twist them (I assume to be done if the frame loses tension). I notice you don't do this - is it necessary, do you think? More applicable in softer soil/clay perhaps?
If you have your own tensioner I don't think it'd be necessary, just re-strain when needed... Our recent rains have made extra work I bet.
Likely not to be high tensile wire. I believe a lot of old box ends were made with low tensile wire that can be twisted up to tighten them.
Hi Tim, Ive gone back to this well watched older video to ask you for some advice. I'm going to fence a couple acres off from the kangaroos as they eat all our garden trees and shrubs. Planning on using a 1500 tall tlock mesh and a top wire about 10 cm higher. So 1600 high total. Do reckon this would work and if so what length post to buy and how deep to set them? I've recently got a Post hole digger for the PTO. Cheers and thanks as always
@@FarmLearningTim thanks Tim, thinking Ng on your advice I'm planning to go (3m rl6) 1800 high with 1.2 burried on the strainers (correct term?) And use 2400 rl5 between with 600 buried. The mesh is still 1500 high but now will add top wires to get it up to 1800. Haven't seen anyone around here with higher (Morangup WA). What do you reckon for these depths?
@@FarmLearningTim on the strainer box assy for the 1800 high posts (out of ground) do I put my cross beam at the top or a partial way up?
Thanks Tim for the informative videos that have helped me out heaps. I am in the process of installing a 200 odd metre fence to keep cattle out of my house yard area. I have managed to pick up some good priced barbwire and planning to install 4 rows. I prefer timber posts as they look alot better then steel but I do not have any good post timber on the property as it was all rainforest up on the Atherton Tablelands in Queensland. I have found several people able to source hardwood strainers and rails however they are very expensive. I see you often use H4? koppers logs and wonder how they go in the long run and what sizes ect you use.
Thanks
Hardwood posts are good but you really have to watch out for white ants.
G'day Tim
Could you show us a diagonal stay??... I've been watching your videos and looking to do a short corner block farm fence say 50 m in length each way.... With out big box ends at every gate and end is there an easy diagonal stay I could use?
Thanks mate
Good idea. Gimme a few weeks. You will notice I’ve been using them a bit lately in other videos.
Thanks for the video! Quick question, to avoid electric wires touching the brace wires is it recommended to cross the brace wires in a figure 8 or use some insulating tube on the hot wires?
Question. I am fencing my farm in American on some very hilly land. On sloping land do I put the top rail parallel with the slope of the land instead of level? Thanks for the videos - very helpful.
Hey Tim are those posts concreted in or dirt is fine ?
Try and avoid concreting posts mate. It’s expensive, often doesn’t work as well as tamping and is painful to replace. There, of course, are always exceptions!
Hi Tim. Is it correct I need a box end on each corner (2 per corner)? Or could i just use a larger post and concrete it in for example? Thanks.
Love your videos - is there anything about doing mesh/chicken wire fencing?
Hi Tim, I wish to build a double wire strained h frame in the middle of a longer barbed wire fence so I can build it two parts and ensure good tension from the middle out to each end. Any tricks? Thxs Jd
Check out my video on fencing a gully. I’d use a double box for that purpose and strain both sides to the centre post
Is it the same concept when using square pine posts? Planning on using square posts down our short boundary as a dog fence. Just wondering about the box assemblies at either end now. Thanks for your videos!
Thanks for the video Tim. Just wondering why use box assemblies in place of either a 200mm strainer and gal stay or 100mm gal strainer + stay? Is it a money thing or just easier to get hold of 100mm copper logs from the hardware and rural stores? Seems like a little more work than just a big post and stay?
@@FarmLearningTim Yeah I've noticed a lot of farms are putting up gal after the fires when I've been driving by, It seems to be a bit more expensive too. By the time you buy the strainer ($40), stay ($35), stay attachment ($20), gate hinges ($30), 2-3 bags of rapid set ($25) - it adds up quickly! Thanks for the feedback
@@peterschmidt9942 - there is also some cost share opportunities for fencing in the states through NRCS if you agree to follow their landscape improvement protocols. Pretty good deal to help preserve the rangelands for both ranchers and tax payers since ranchers can care for the land at half the cost of government agencies.
I was told the wire should be a figure eight. What’s your thoughts?
Good luck getting that tight in a box end
What length and diameter steel rods do you use? I enjoy your videos!
Hi Tim love your videos, has taught me heaps. Going to start buying the tools to get started. Saw in one of your videos a pair of pliers and cutter in 1. What brand are they and where do I get them from please? Thanks. Kaz
I don't seem to see a lot of Tim's replies for some reason so excuse if it's been answered.
I bought 'fencing pliers' from my local mitre10, same style you mention, just not sure on brands.
Tim - Great videos, I am in the first stages of installing 500M of HT stock fencing/barbed wire between field and river. I would like to put a couple of access points for infrequent use. What would you recommend, a couple of stys independent to fence - or is there a better solution. So far I've dug in half the 8ft Chestnut strainers at each bend, so still have options. I want to avoid gates and the extra box assemblies etc... Thanks
Many Thanks Tim - Stiles it is then, (I am in UK, so can find plently around to copy the geometry
Still amazing
Whats the reason for keeping the second nail below the strainer rail. I have been putting it just above the steel rod.
I’ve changed to that recently too mate. I originally did this due to my background in viticulture and the position of the trellis wire. Over the pin is stronger
@@FarmLearningTim Roger.
Good video. Thanks for posting ***
Hi Tim, absolutley love your videos mate! Was wondering what kind of snips you use? I'm in Scotland so hoping I can get same kind here!
Tim Thompson thanks!
Gday Tim - I'm trying to find information on an old type of metal rural fence picket which has a twisted form and a flat tab at the top which seems to take a turning tool. Can you help please and if you could give me a pic that would be great. I want to see if I can find some stored or discarded on a property.
These were around many years ago. I have been shown pictures by John Pickard (who I interviewed on old fencing tech) and also Brian from Whites, who I think has a few. I’ll keep my eyes open.
These were around many years ago. I have been shown pictures by John Pickard (who I interviewed on old fencing tech) and also Brian from Whites, who I think has a few. I’ll keep my eyes open.
@@FarmLearningTim Thanks mate, I've searched everywhere on the internet and cant find a single pic of one. I was hoping to advertise for some on Gumtree and need a photo to better describe them.
@@mirriulahwaterdog email me gday@timthompson.ag
Are these 125mm posts?
Why don't you use a wire rachet strainer. Over time the wire stretches and becomes loose.
Use one loop per 2line wires and tie the knot properly and it doesn’t.
When doing box end on a property that's square would u build 8 box ends ? 2 in each corner of the fence
@@FarmLearningTim thanks mate do you have any vids on straining up sheep mesh?
Tim Thompson hi Tim you wouldn’t strain sheep mesh around corners either would you?
Are your posts concreted in the ground? Do they need to be?
@@FarmLearningTim cheers I didn't no that! Save me some money alright
How deep do u put your posts in ground
do the end posts need to be concreted in ? TIA
No mate.
@@FarmLearningTim good to know THANKS
Good!
What's 2.56 mil in gauge? I've tried looking it up with no hope.
10 gauge
Excellent stuff. So, it seems I had no idea about building a fence :( Thanks.
I’m sure you’ll be fine mate
Why tie the wire below the center post? Thanks.
Who only have a single nail holding it together.
My button at the bottom says subscribed not subscribe sorry
You should wear safety glasses working with wire.
goggles?
Normally we have the rail a little lower ( so the top wire runs on top ) then when you put the longer rod in you can leave it sticking out a few inches and the diagonal straining wire sits on top of the rod on that end thus eliminating the need for a staple