As somone working at for a mechanical engineering institute at a technical university, there are a few tips i can give you: You are using a asyncronous motor, it's rotational speed depends only on pairs of poles on the stator of you motor (cant be changed) and the net frequency (in your case 50Hz) of your 3-phase power. So a vfd is your only option for a soft start. On the V-belt pulleys your grooves should be deeper than the belt. The widest part of the belt should sit below the outer diameter of your pulleys. The way it is now, you are wasing area of your belt that could transmit torque. If you make your pulley grooves deeper, check for the correct side angles and tension the belt, you should be able to get rid of the slippage problem. (take a look into a machinery handbook for the measurements) Rubbing or the lack of that, in terms of bearings depends on the type of side covers. A type 2RS is with non touching rubber seals (they have a very small gap between them and the inner bearing race), while a 2RSR is with two touching rubber seals. (2RSR can also stop rubbing if the seal is worn down) A poly-v-belt is a combination of a falt and a v-belt. It is mainly used for small diameters to wind around and still need more torque than a flat belt. On the same diamteters of the pulleys (if they ar big enough for a v-belt) a v-belt can transmit more power than a poly-v-belt. The slippage you got with the poly-v-belt was only halve of what you would get in normal operation, because the blade wasn't installed so the top wheel wasn't contributing to the start up load. If you'd like i can give more details about belt, bearings and other machine components
He could do soft start with a star/triangle configuration switch. It will not lower rpm but the current will be lower. But that is more for installation that can't take the inrush current and not constructions that struggle with the mechanics.
@@FreeOfFantasy that would probably not work on this Motor. If it is default wired up as a star configuration it is a 230/400v motor and not rated for delta with 400v between 2 phases. If it was a 400/690V motor then a star-delta startup would work. You could try a softstarter (basically a three phase dimmer) wich raises the voltage/current slowly, but a vfd is the best option i think
@@FreeOfFantasy for soft start this would be fine, but for continous speed adjustment this does not work. A VFD is really not that expensive for this size motor.
@@InExFan01 A dimmer would lower only the voltage, and with that the motor torque only. This could help, but the speed would still be the same. That can only be changed by frequency variation.
"Didn't really go as planned. It basically was just a constant problem, solving it, moving onto the next problem and so on." You just described life my friend... Great video as usual.
Greetings from the USA! Very impressed with your problem solving abilities, and the fact you always give yourself allowances for mistakes and show us those issues as well. Always look forward to new videos!
It is a joy to watch such an intelligent creative person. I speak no German and your English is excellent. I heard you say damages and felt a need to google the word. What is the difference between damage and damages? Damage means “loss or injury to a person or property”. It is an uncountable singular noun and has no plural form. ... Damages means “money claimed by, or ordered to be paid to, a person as compensation for loss or injury”.Feb 21, 2011
Great video Marius. Your videos have a great balance of being informative without being long winded or boring, having enough visual interest on screen, nice explanations etc. Most makers I see seem to have long explanations without a lot of energy or show the process quickly without explaining what's going on. Being concise is apparently an art form you've done well at. I also like the outtakes sections at the end :)
One of your best videos. RUclips is full of good how to make a thing videos. But the in depth explanation of why you do things the way you do, and how and why things don't go according to plan set you apart from the crowd. Thanks.
Hell yeah! Toolmaking content is the best. I love seeing 3d prints in real applications. I think the most impressive I've ever seen is successfully running a 3d printed lathe changegear for over a year.
I’ve been a part of your channel now for the latter part of four years I thoroughly enjoy your videos and can’t tell you how much I’ve learned over the time just wanna give you a big thank you keep up the great work and I wish I had patience like you sir
I haven't run across one of your videos for quite a while. I watched you build this saw back then. Was really nice to see your face and hear your voice again.
It is very satisfying to watch you work. You have made so many things now that function properly, and your attention now is on fixing relatively smaller problems and improving the longevity of your machines. Thanks for bringing us along on the journey. I'm willing to bet that you will be responsible for some very nice products in the future.
Great job! I stuck with it and enjoyed every minute. I love your problem solving attitude. Looking forward to to replacement pulley video and further upgrade.
It’s definitely an interesting experience taking apart something you built at an earlier point in your woodwork/engineering/life journey. Skill-wise you are always evolving as a builder, hopefully always becoming a better one, and digging through your old thought processes can be very interesting. Love your work.
Marius, I have been following your channel ever since you started. Yes you have come a long way, but you were a smart young man from the very beginning. I'm a woodworker, turning, so I can appreciate your skill level. Well above mine. Engineers would be jealous of your ability to trouble shoot and problem solve, be proud.
Marius, I wouldn't normally mention this because your English is already so good - certainly far, far better than my German - but you use this word several times in this film. The word "damage" as in "damage to a bearing", is always singular. "Damages", on the other hand, has a very specific meaning: it refers to compensation ordered by a court to be paid to someone who has suffered damage caused by someone else (to their property, their reputation or something else that has a financial consequence for the person damaged).
The large starting torque of the motor is not important to using the bandsaw - torque at operating speed is what matters, so soft starting it will not detract from its function, and probably reduce stresses on everything as well.
@@MiniLuv-1984 I agree. A nice, smooth soft start is the best for a motor, especially if it has a huge load. A direct start (like contactor) will always be more brutal for the windings, but it doesn't mean that they break quicly, they last still a long time
@@jecceworks Yes, very true, but in relation to lasting longer under soft start, I was concerned for the rest of the bandsaw. That slop in the shaft mount may have been caused by the high torque starts.
It also cant be used with this Motor. The motor is a 230V/400V motor running of a 400V mains. So switching it to delta will just burn it up. If you had a 400V / 690V Motor this would be an option.
@@Alexander470815 I agree with you. Another hint for Marius H.: If the VFD is single phase driven at 230V (L to N), you need to change the motor from Star to Delta config. If the VFD works with three phase, you can leave it in Star config. - For lower power (e.g. 2kW) it's typical, that the VFD is used with 230V. Pls have a look to the specs. Otherwise you will only have 1/3 of the nominal power
26:06 The flip of the dial indicator had me laughing! Also, I think the pairing of 3D printer and lathe (or a milling machine) is a great use, you can keep material lost at a very low percentage.
To help the seals out, you could 3d-print/make a simple cap to mount over it to seal it of from dust. Even the slightest of wood dust will suck grease out, which then starts to increase wear on the rubber letting more dust in. I think it will expand the life of the bearings and is a pretty easy add-on.
For future projects, if you use an oil-based paint, or waterborne enamel you will not have to deal with the sticky-paint problem. It is great to see how well your saw is holding up - I very much wish to make one myself someday. Thanks for all the awesome videos!
Great video, Marius~! I always learn something from your projects. Your videos could be over an hour and I'd be there hanging onto every word. Very educational~! Thank you~!
Oh Marius, deine Arbeitspräzision ist unglaublich... Super Sache, der jetzt noch verbleibende Schlupf wird wahrscheinlich von dem Frequenzumrichter eliminiert werden...
I was making a jigg to sharpen my planes with the other day and I got to turning old skateboard wheels... that produces loooong, stiff, tough rubberbands :) turning stuff that isnt "right" is fun.
Das war wieder ein sehr unterhaltsames und auch lehrreiches Video. Gut gemacht Marius. Bin sehr auf den Frequenzumrichter gespannt. Das wird sicher ein viel angenehmeres Gefühl beim Starten sein ;-)
Great work! I am a fan of multi groove pulleys. They transfer more torque, and run quieter. The variable frequency drive will definitely be an improvement. Even a small amount of start up slippage significantly accelerates wear, though the noise I heard on startup, with the final pulley, may have been motor whine.
This project ended up as a tour of several previous build projects. I was very interested to see how your printed parts cut on the lathe. Getting the speed right on plastics can be tricky. A very enjoyable project. Component failure is something we all face. Perhaps you should look for a flexible bearing puller. they can be useful.
Marius, I've followed your channel since before the scissor lift(great project by the way) and I'm not bothered by the length of your videos. Your presentations fail to loose my interest but I understand your concern for a timely video. Thank you.
Well, if anything, it's improved your mechanical knowledge in the development of the pulley systems, and you've also increased the life span of your device.
I would never 3D print a part on a powerful electric motor driven cutting device. But if it works and it seems safe enough to operate, then I guess go with it. Really nice band saw that you have. I hope to have a band saw that could cut a fairly wide board like a table saw can, but with a small fraction of the noise. Then it could be used in an apartment, and it would be a lot safer than a table saw, or even a radial saw.
Der Trick ist ein Frequenzumrichter oder ein ein Sanftstarter (günstig gebraucht zu bekommen).Damit lässt sich der Drehzahlanstieg schön einstellen und das rutschen des Riemens verhindern.
Installing a new bearing you could use a thicker bolt with some washer or a threaded rod with nuts. put it into the hole of the bearing and it will be probably faster and more straight than this clamp method. But great work i'm really envy for this bandsaw of yours.
Good stuff, the belt lengthens/slackens on the top side on start up, a small spring loaded idler pulley should solve the start up slip and aid tension on the belt. a cheap fix
Marius, in order to resolve your problem of slipping belt there are two options. One is cheap Soft Starter with ramp and more expensive is Frequency converter which besides soft starting function offers variable drive of your electrical motor. However, there is the third solution which is changing AC motor for a DC motor which allows you control of running according to load. The best is frequency converter because it offers full control over the AC motor. The only problem is price. Lots of music comes with lots of money. Soft starter is not a Delta/Star because this totally obsolete system is already part of every motor and does not reduces starting current spikes.
I upgraded my metal lathe (1943 Reed Prentice) from 3HP 3ph to 5HP single phase (I don't have 3ph power). The starting torque was SO strong I felt it would break the lathe's drive chain, so I changed capacitors & it starts very well now.
That router circle jig is pure genius. Would a spring-loaded idler pulley running on the back side of the belt help with keeping constant tension. I've seen that on many vehicles which use a serpentine poly-v belt to drive multiple accessories off the motor crankshaft. My Rikon 10-325 bandsaw uses a drive belt like yours and belt tension is done with a idler pulley with a manual adjustment, no spring load.
The VFD will solve the start torque issues and the added bonus is variable speed control. You will find that you can get the perfect blade speed for whatever material you are cutting and blade you are using.
I think solid thic plastics like acetal are very good construction materials and a lot of times i like them much more than wood because they are not prone to splitting, water, expanding or cracking over time. The only issue is that they are much less readily available in stores.
7:29 note, the pulleys probably weren't actually being driven by the screws, if so they probably would've sheared off long ago with all the large fluctuations in torque over its lifespan. instead, the main force the screws were seeing was the constant tension from when you initially drove the screws in. that tension pulls the two parts together with significant force, that force is multiplied by the materials' coefficient of static friction, and that friction force is what actually transmits the torque. this is why well engineered bolted connections can have higher shear strength than that of the bolts themselves (and also why you can get away with oversized bolt holes but still end up with something very rigid)
A good example of why I sold my Prusa, that wobble on the lath of the printed down blue part means you probably also have one of those beds with around 0,5mm bow in it, which according to Egoprusa is okay due to the bed probe, but IMHO this (and a few other things) are unacceptable for its price class when you like to print mechanical parts. That aside, it's quite interesting to see a 3D Print being turned down on a lathe, I've surfaced some on a CNC but turning on a lathe? Yeah, I think I gotta try that out once I get my Paulimot :D
A light weight dust cover over the bearing should dramatically reduce to dust issue. one option would be a rubber ring around the bearing into which a foam disk could fit. On the shaft side a helix can be use to eject dust that gets between the foam disk and shaft. A tensioner wheel could solve the slippage by pushing the lose belt down. Ah, bloopers, never work with primates or vampire squid.(Cthulhu, circa 997,883 BCE) :,D
Meinen größten Respekt für deine Geduld und Hingabe mit der du an deinen Projekten arbeitest Absolut starker Typ Mit den Jahren hat sich dein Fuhrpark auch etwas erweitert...gibt es überhaupt etwas das du nicht bearbeiten kannst?
Great video Marius. This is a perfect illustration of "opening a can of worms". Could you not have installed a soft start switch on the existing bandsaw configuration?
As somone working at for a mechanical engineering institute at a technical university, there are a few tips i can give you:
You are using a asyncronous motor, it's rotational speed depends only on pairs of poles on the stator of you motor (cant be changed) and the net frequency (in your case 50Hz) of your 3-phase power. So a vfd is your only option for a soft start.
On the V-belt pulleys your grooves should be deeper than the belt. The widest part of the belt should sit below the outer diameter of your pulleys. The way it is now, you are wasing area of your belt that could transmit torque. If you make your pulley grooves deeper, check for the correct side angles and tension the belt, you should be able to get rid of the slippage problem. (take a look into a machinery handbook for the measurements)
Rubbing or the lack of that, in terms of bearings depends on the type of side covers. A type 2RS is with non touching rubber seals (they have a very small gap between them and the inner bearing race), while a 2RSR is with two touching rubber seals. (2RSR can also stop rubbing if the seal is worn down)
A poly-v-belt is a combination of a falt and a v-belt. It is mainly used for small diameters to wind around and still need more torque than a flat belt.
On the same diamteters of the pulleys (if they ar big enough for a v-belt) a v-belt can transmit more power than a poly-v-belt.
The slippage you got with the poly-v-belt was only halve of what you would get in normal operation, because the blade wasn't installed so the top wheel wasn't contributing to the start up load.
If you'd like i can give more details about belt, bearings and other machine components
He could do soft start with a star/triangle configuration switch. It will not lower rpm but the current will be lower. But that is more for installation that can't take the inrush current and not constructions that struggle with the mechanics.
@@FreeOfFantasy that would probably not work on this Motor. If it is default wired up as a star configuration it is a 230/400v motor and not rated for delta with 400v between 2 phases. If it was a 400/690V motor then a star-delta startup would work. You could try a softstarter (basically a three phase dimmer) wich raises the voltage/current slowly, but a vfd is the best option i think
@@InExFan01 A VFD is obviously the best solution, but not cheap. A three phase dimmer would be cheap at least.
@@FreeOfFantasy for soft start this would be fine, but for continous speed adjustment this does not work. A VFD is really not that expensive for this size motor.
@@InExFan01 A dimmer would lower only the voltage, and with that the motor torque only. This could help, but the speed would still be the same. That can only be changed by frequency variation.
"Didn't really go as planned. It basically was just a constant problem, solving it, moving onto the next problem and so on." You just described life my friend... Great video as usual.
Never worry about the vid being too long... love the more detailed content!
Focus Master: focusing on the neatly organized tools and the amazing amount of machinery on literally no floorspace: Masterfully humble.
Dude, I could watch you all day long.
Greetings from the USA! Very impressed with your problem solving abilities, and the fact you always give yourself allowances for mistakes and show us those issues as well. Always look forward to new videos!
It is a joy to watch such an intelligent creative person. I speak no German and your English is excellent. I heard you say damages and felt a need to google the word.
What is the difference between damage and damages?
Damage means “loss or injury to a person or property”. It is an uncountable singular noun and has no plural form. ... Damages means “money claimed by, or ordered to be paid to, a person as compensation for loss or injury”.Feb 21, 2011
Thanks you for that I was not aware that there was a difference!!
now thats a lot of damage
Great video Marius. Your videos have a great balance of being informative without being long winded or boring, having enough visual interest on screen, nice explanations etc. Most makers I see seem to have long explanations without a lot of energy or show the process quickly without explaining what's going on. Being concise is apparently an art form you've done well at. I also like the outtakes sections at the end :)
One of your best videos.
RUclips is full of good how to make a thing videos.
But the in depth explanation of why you do things the way you do, and how and why things don't go according to plan set you apart from the crowd. Thanks.
Hell yeah! Toolmaking content is the best.
I love seeing 3d prints in real applications. I think the most impressive I've ever seen is successfully running a 3d printed lathe changegear for over a year.
I’ve been a part of your channel now for the latter part of four years I thoroughly enjoy your videos and can’t tell you how much I’ve learned over the time just wanna give you a big thank you keep up the great work and I wish I had patience like you sir
Love that no mistakes were edited out.
You are way too smart to be working in a home shop environment. An engineering firm or fabrication firm is where you need to be. 👍👍
Pushing the technical boundaries on this project.
Awesome just awesome.
Thanks for sharing
I haven't run across one of your videos for quite a while. I watched you build this saw back then. Was really nice to see your face and hear your voice again.
It is very satisfying to watch you work. You have made so many things now that function properly, and your attention now is on fixing relatively smaller problems and improving the longevity of your machines.
Thanks for bringing us along on the journey. I'm willing to bet that you will be responsible for some very nice products in the future.
Great video. Thanks for making. Mistakes ARE learning. You ARE teaching!
Great job! I stuck with it and enjoyed every minute. I love your problem solving attitude. Looking forward to to replacement pulley video and further upgrade.
how could you have commented 1 day ago? The video is only up 50 minutes
@@huansanders3036 I support him on Patreon and get early viewing.
@@huansanders3036 I support his work on Patreon and get early preview.
Didn't even notice when 40 minutes passed.
Great job!
Very much enjoyed this video. Love the combination of woodworking, 3D printing and plastic machining. Good pace throughout.
It’s definitely an interesting experience taking apart something you built at an earlier point in your woodwork/engineering/life journey. Skill-wise you are always evolving as a builder, hopefully always becoming a better one, and digging through your old thought processes can be very interesting. Love your work.
Brilliant method of persevering and turning a failure into a success!
My comments were made before the out takes. Cudos on the slip ups we all make. Great stuff.
That bearing pulling method was so clever
Marius, I have been following your channel ever since you started. Yes you have come a long way, but you were a smart young man
from the very beginning. I'm a woodworker, turning, so I can appreciate your skill level. Well above mine. Engineers would be jealous
of your ability to trouble shoot and problem solve, be proud.
Ooh, I can hardly wait for the sequel!
Marius, I wouldn't normally mention this because your English is already so good - certainly far, far better than my German - but you use this word several times in this film. The word "damage" as in "damage to a bearing", is always singular. "Damages", on the other hand, has a very specific meaning: it refers to compensation ordered by a court to be paid to someone who has suffered damage caused by someone else (to their property, their reputation or something else that has a financial consequence for the person damaged).
Way to fight through all the problems! Keep fixing and creating!
Amazing precision. Impressive work. Thank you for sharing your techniques.
Star-delta starter would not solve the issue, there is just not enough load on the motor. A soft starter or that vfd will solve the issue
The large starting torque of the motor is not important to using the bandsaw - torque at operating speed is what matters, so soft starting it will not detract from its function, and probably reduce stresses on everything as well.
@@MiniLuv-1984 I agree. A nice, smooth soft start is the best for a motor, especially if it has a huge load. A direct start (like contactor) will always be more brutal for the windings, but it doesn't mean that they break quicly, they last still a long time
@@jecceworks Yes, very true, but in relation to lasting longer under soft start, I was concerned for the rest of the bandsaw. That slop in the shaft mount may have been caused by the high torque starts.
It also cant be used with this Motor. The motor is a 230V/400V motor running of a 400V mains. So switching it to delta will just burn it up. If you had a 400V / 690V Motor this would be an option.
@@Alexander470815 I agree with you. Another hint for Marius H.: If the VFD is single phase driven at 230V (L to N), you need to change the motor from Star to Delta config. If the VFD works with three phase, you can leave it in Star config.
-
For lower power (e.g. 2kW) it's typical, that the VFD is used with 230V. Pls have a look to the specs. Otherwise you will only have 1/3 of the nominal power
26:06 The flip of the dial indicator had me laughing! Also, I think the pairing of 3D printer and lathe (or a milling machine) is a great use, you can keep material lost at a very low percentage.
To help the seals out, you could 3d-print/make a simple cap to mount over it to seal it of from dust. Even the slightest of wood dust will suck grease out, which then starts to increase wear on the rubber letting more dust in. I think it will expand the life of the bearings and is a pretty easy add-on.
For future projects, if you use an oil-based paint, or waterborne enamel you will not have to deal with the sticky-paint problem. It is great to see how well your saw is holding up - I very much wish to make one myself someday. Thanks for all the awesome videos!
+1 for the VFD camp. You'd also get rapid braking features and a knob to turn for metal cutting.
Marius, thank you for the video! I'm looking forward to the next part.
8:54 this is THE most sophisticated and insane bearing pulling device ever
Great video, Marius~! I always learn something from your projects. Your videos could be over an hour and I'd be there hanging onto every word. Very educational~! Thank you~!
Haircut countdown made me laugh out loud!
Yay SKF bearings for the win! Volvo was founded out of SKF as a wholly owned subsidiary.
Oh Marius, deine Arbeitspräzision ist unglaublich...
Super Sache, der jetzt noch verbleibende Schlupf wird wahrscheinlich von dem Frequenzumrichter eliminiert werden...
It was a good video watching you work through the issues.
Your vids are amazing. Your craftsmanship is outstanding. You have some future ahead of you.
Very interesting and enjoyable video. Your perseverance is impressive.
Marius, you do a great job. I look forward to your videos.
I was making a jigg to sharpen my planes with the other day and I got to turning old skateboard wheels... that produces loooong, stiff, tough rubberbands :) turning stuff that isnt "right" is fun.
Slow start probably would solve a lot! Great video!
great to see you again. Looking forward to Part 2.
Love your safety shoes and socks 🤣😂. Good work mate
Nice to see you have a record lathe from England
Great video! I love your problem-solving skills. It’s wonderful to watch.
Hi Marius, great vid. Many of us never ever get it right first/fifth time . Nice to see a youtuber do the same. TFS, G :)
Das war wieder ein sehr unterhaltsames und auch lehrreiches Video.
Gut gemacht Marius. Bin sehr auf den Frequenzumrichter gespannt.
Das wird sicher ein viel angenehmeres Gefühl beim Starten sein ;-)
Nice DIY saw! Hi from France 😉
HEY U GUY'z STILL Fighting
Neo-Capitalist Dog'z of Pariz Aye Bon Chance!!>:}
Great work! I am a fan of multi groove pulleys. They transfer more torque, and run quieter. The variable frequency drive will definitely be an improvement. Even a small amount of start up slippage significantly accelerates wear, though the noise I heard on startup, with the final pulley, may have been motor whine.
This project ended up as a tour of several previous build projects. I was very interested to see how your printed parts cut on the lathe. Getting the speed right on plastics can be tricky. A very enjoyable project. Component failure is something we all face.
Perhaps you should look for a flexible bearing puller. they can be useful.
Yay, finally the metal lathe in action :D
Marius, I've followed your channel since before the scissor lift(great project by the way) and I'm not bothered by the length of your videos. Your presentations fail to loose my interest but I understand your concern for a timely video. Thank you.
14:50 That's a fancy lookin wrench! Damn!
Well, if anything, it's improved your mechanical knowledge in the development of the pulley systems, and you've also increased the life span of your device.
Awesome work! 😃👍🏻👊🏻 .... VFD will definitely help with that jerky start.
I would never 3D print a part on a powerful electric motor driven cutting device. But if it works and it seems safe enough to operate, then I guess go with it. Really nice band saw that you have. I hope to have a band saw that could cut a fairly wide board like a table saw can, but with a small fraction of the noise. Then it could be used in an apartment, and it would be a lot safer than a table saw, or even a radial saw.
Woop woop, that's the sound of da pulleys!
Loved both videos. Great stuff
Der Trick ist ein Frequenzumrichter oder ein ein Sanftstarter (günstig gebraucht zu bekommen).Damit lässt sich der Drehzahlanstieg schön einstellen und das rutschen des Riemens verhindern.
Watched that video first time, it could be a drinking game, everytime you say "pulley"... ;)
Installing a new bearing you could use a thicker bolt with some washer or a threaded rod with nuts. put it into the hole of the bearing and it will be probably faster and more straight than this clamp method. But great work i'm really envy for this bandsaw of yours.
Good stuff, the belt lengthens/slackens on the top side on start up, a small spring loaded idler pulley should solve the start up slip and aid tension on the belt. a cheap fix
9:00 - This is genius!
will be interesting to see how well plastic pulleys hold up, any rubbing or slipping will make things hot
It is my concern as well. PLA starts to soften as low as 60-70degC and here in this application we have speed and friction...
Marius, in order to resolve your problem of slipping belt there are two options. One is cheap Soft Starter with ramp and more expensive is Frequency converter which besides soft starting function offers variable drive of your electrical motor.
However, there is the third solution which is changing AC motor for a DC motor which allows you control of running according to load.
The best is frequency converter because it offers full control over the AC motor. The only problem is price. Lots of music comes with lots of money. Soft starter is not a Delta/Star because this totally obsolete system is already part of every motor and does not reduces starting current spikes.
the vfd will have a soft start you can program in also. great job,
I upgraded my metal lathe (1943 Reed Prentice) from 3HP 3ph to 5HP single phase (I don't have 3ph power).
The starting torque was SO strong I felt it would break the lathe's drive chain, so I changed capacitors & it starts very well now.
another excellent video, as always, greetings from Chile
Marius, just found your channel, very informative, will take a look at your other videos
7:22
Theres always the influence of Matthias visible ;-))
Looks like you used every tool in your workshop besides the bandsaw itself for this project 😋
That router circle jig is pure genius.
Would a spring-loaded idler pulley running on the back side of the belt help with keeping constant tension. I've seen that on many vehicles which use a serpentine poly-v belt to drive multiple accessories off the motor crankshaft. My Rikon 10-325 bandsaw uses a drive belt like yours and belt tension is done with a idler pulley with a manual adjustment, no spring load.
Nice, good video. I like your methods.
Fantastic problem solving!
The VFD will solve the start torque issues and the added bonus is variable speed control. You will find that you can get the perfect blade speed for whatever material you are cutting and blade you are using.
I think solid thic plastics like acetal are very good construction materials and a lot of times i like them much more than wood because they are not prone to splitting, water, expanding or cracking over time. The only issue is that they are much less readily available in stores.
If reprinting, try nylon-filled, then pop for a vid.
Nice work that is always informative and adventurous.
Super cute!!
7:29 note, the pulleys probably weren't actually being driven by the screws, if so they probably would've sheared off long ago with all the large fluctuations in torque over its lifespan. instead, the main force the screws were seeing was the constant tension from when you initially drove the screws in. that tension pulls the two parts together with significant force, that force is multiplied by the materials' coefficient of static friction, and that friction force is what actually transmits the torque. this is why well engineered bolted connections can have higher shear strength than that of the bolts themselves (and also why you can get away with oversized bolt holes but still end up with something very rigid)
kreatives Lagertool :-) muss man auch erst mal drauf kommen
You would do well to use more steel in your projects. That said,I am very impressed. Your engineering skills serve you well.
As always, really cool smart videos😊
I love the fact that you're trying to build all this but I just wonder if it would be easier to buy the pulley for the motor side.
A good example of why I sold my Prusa, that wobble on the lath of the printed down blue part means you probably also have one of those beds with around 0,5mm bow in it, which according to Egoprusa is okay due to the bed probe, but IMHO this (and a few other things) are unacceptable for its price class when you like to print mechanical parts.
That aside, it's quite interesting to see a 3D Print being turned down on a lathe, I've surfaced some on a CNC but turning on a lathe? Yeah, I think I gotta try that out once I get my Paulimot :D
Excellent! Love your videos
A light weight dust cover over the bearing should dramatically reduce to dust issue. one option would be a rubber ring around the bearing into which a foam disk could fit. On the shaft side a helix can be use to eject dust that gets between the foam disk and shaft.
A tensioner wheel could solve the slippage by pushing the lose belt down.
Ah, bloopers, never work with primates or vampire squid.(Cthulhu, circa 997,883 BCE) :,D
Great video and great work! :D Makes methink again of making my own bandsaw, but there are some other projects im working on ^^
Great video as usual.
Meinen größten Respekt für deine Geduld und Hingabe mit der du an deinen Projekten arbeitest
Absolut starker Typ
Mit den Jahren hat sich dein Fuhrpark auch etwas erweitert...gibt es überhaupt etwas das du nicht bearbeiten kannst?
Danke.
Naja, Metall und Stahlbearbeitung ist noch ziemlich in den Kinderschuhen. Und schweißen kann ich auch noch nicht
Für Kinderschuhe siehts aber schon sehr ordentlich aus
Das lässt bei dir doch nich lange auf sich warten😉
Star/Delta (Y/D) switch does work, but you need a motor that has different ratings for voltage.
love the haircut. Great video
Well played Sir.
Great video Marius. This is a perfect illustration of "opening a can of worms". Could you not have installed a soft start switch on the existing bandsaw configuration?
I would cap the exposed bearings with something lightweight, like a small plastic film!
Grazie, sempre molto istruttivo, bravo!!!