I hope you don't take this the wrong way but it rather refreshing watching someone who is human and a little nervous doing a kit. I am in a similar place about doing that sort of thing. You just need to focus on the feeling at the end of the labour of satisfaction. Perfection and pristine/factory fresh is over-rated. Model railways need the human touch. After all, humans built the full size things. Keep up the great work!
+Thom Cousens Thanks Thom, I'm no expert so I always try to think of it as presenting 'how I did this' rather than 'how you should do this'! I did enjoy building and painting the wagon, will have to try something trickier next!
speaking from experience it's always a good idea, when using a craft knife to try and aim away from your body, although dried blood does look very much like rust if you wish to make your models look a bit delapidated
Excellent video Simon and am indeed far less daunted by the prospect of this sort of thing after watching, so thank you. Think they turned out very well, must have been very satisfying :) - Sim
Now I know I am not the only one that has to rip the glued parts apart to add something I left off because I don't read the directions. Nice video, I enjoyed wating you do it. Looks really good when done.
Great video! Definitely going to give this a go if they are made in OO too! A tip for the decals is to use Humbrol Decalfix which is a lot better than water and gives a better finish!
Kits are a good challenge provided they run well. Some kits are obviously better than others. May I provide a tip? Instead of using water, Humbrol Decalfix can give better results than water I have found. Water doesn't always pull the decal into grooves, and leaves a shine, unless you gloss the model first, then matt finish afterwards. Decalfix touched to the model, then used to loosen the decal should take away any 'shine' and pull the decal tight to the model - use the brush to position. Nice to see my fingers are not the only large fumbly ones.
Great to see the build from start to finish there Simon and good point about the non cost saving. I think I will wait until I have some paints and tools on hand first,
Thanks Charlie, yes, lots of reasons to give these a go (the challenge, getting liveries you can't buy etc) but they probably do work out more expensive than 'off the peg' wagons!
I have been looking (again) at your videos. Working with these hard to place nuts for many years, I put a cocktail stick through the nut and hold it in place with my index finger. The put the tip of the stick centrally over the bolt and release the nut ( don't move the stick). Then I use a 2nd cocktail stick to spin the nut until it catches on the thread. I use beheaded cotton buds instead if the internal nut diameter is a little larger. Hope this makes sense but it does work for me.
Hello Simon...Great videos from the shed...! You can make a "Vertical Nut Driver" out of a small pin or pencil, with a little piece of double adhesive on the end, where the nut will stick. When the nut catches, it is easy to remove pin (and tape). Also a small magnet on a stick will do well. Slogan: The right tools is half the job. Jigs and fixtures are also half the job. Greetings from Denmark...Jakob.
+Simons Shed Greetings Simon...! "Blue Tag" is your best friend...better than us mere mortals...! I still like your video though, shows the true process, with a Little editing. PS: You can, of course, get screwdrivers with nut-heads...you are not the only one, working with small scale...! But why pay for a Tool you can make...?!
Looks like your air pressure is set a little high. Tamiya pains spray OK with the Tamiya thinners or with Isopropol. The generic acrylic thinners don't work well.
Just wondering what pressure your airbrush compressor was running to? Sounded a bit too pressurised which might give issues with coating layers of paint. Normally set mine to 2-2.5 psi
Little tip when putting tranfers on use small brush the position them. Thought you might like to see how im getting on with my N gauge layout but first is our 00 guage. Update on layouts HUNTINGTON TMD AND MELSWELLS 19/5/2014
Nicely done, Simon. Nothing better than having built and painted it yourself. Great video. Take care...
I hope you don't take this the wrong way but it rather refreshing watching someone who is human and a little nervous doing a kit. I am in a similar place about doing that sort of thing. You just need to focus on the feeling at the end of the labour of satisfaction. Perfection and pristine/factory fresh is over-rated. Model railways need the human touch. After all, humans built the full size things. Keep up the great work!
+Thom Cousens Thanks Thom, I'm no expert so I always try to think of it as presenting 'how I did this' rather than 'how you should do this'! I did enjoy building and painting the wagon, will have to try something trickier next!
+Simons Shed *thumbs up* "How I Did It" over "How It Should Be Done" any day.
speaking from experience it's always a good idea, when using a craft knife to try and aim away from your body, although dried blood does look very much like rust if you wish to make your models look a bit delapidated
Excellent video Simon and am indeed far less daunted by the prospect of this sort of thing after watching, so thank you. Think they turned out very well, must have been very satisfying :) - Sim
Thanks Sim, yes, enjoyed doing those, less scared about respraying now, but glad I practised on £3 kits!
That kit must be early a half century old ad the detail still stands up well with modern models.
Now I know I am not the only one that has to rip the glued parts apart to add something I left off because I don't read the directions. Nice video, I enjoyed wating you do it. Looks really good when done.
Thanks, pleased with how they turned out, can't believe I forgot the couplings!
Great video! Definitely going to give this a go if they are made in OO too! A tip for the decals is to use Humbrol Decalfix which is a lot better than water and gives a better finish!
Thanks George, didn't know about DecalFix, thanks for the tip!
Kits are a good challenge provided they run well. Some kits are obviously better than others. May I provide a tip? Instead of using water, Humbrol Decalfix can give better results than water I have found. Water doesn't always pull the decal into grooves, and leaves a shine, unless you gloss the model first, then matt finish afterwards. Decalfix touched to the model, then used to loosen the decal should take away any 'shine' and pull the decal tight to the model - use the brush to position. Nice to see my fingers are not the only large fumbly ones.
+Alan G. Brown Yes, common to have fumbly fingers when modelling n gauge. Thanks for the tip, will have to try Decalfix.
Great job. That kit looks fiddly.
Thanks, was fine apart from those tiny screws!
Great to see the build from start to finish there Simon and good point about the non cost saving. I think I will wait until I have some paints and tools on hand first,
Thanks Charlie, yes, lots of reasons to give these a go (the challenge, getting liveries you can't buy etc) but they probably do work out more expensive than 'off the peg' wagons!
I have been looking (again) at your videos. Working with these hard to place nuts for many years, I put a cocktail stick through the nut and hold it in place with my index finger. The put the tip of the stick centrally over the bolt and release the nut ( don't move the stick). Then I use a 2nd cocktail stick to spin the nut until it catches on the thread. I use beheaded cotton buds instead if the internal nut diameter is a little larger. Hope this makes sense but it does work for me.
+Peter Turner good idea, its so easy to lose them, or get extremely wound up trying to get them on. Thanks for the tip.
They look great but very fiddly! LOL! great shot at the end!
Thanks! Great fun to build and paint (apart from the tiny screws!).
thanks Simon ,very intuitive, great job.
Good Job Simon-I bought a wagon kit today thanks to you-see how i go.
Hello Simon...Great videos from the shed...! You can make a "Vertical Nut Driver" out of a small pin or pencil, with a little piece of double adhesive on the end, where the nut will stick. When the nut catches, it is easy to remove pin (and tape). Also a small magnet on a stick will do well. Slogan: The right tools is half the job. Jigs and fixtures are also half the job. Greetings from Denmark...Jakob.
+Jakob Hovman Thanks Jakob, thats a great tip, would have saved me a lot of frustration!
+Simons Shed Greetings Simon...! "Blue Tag" is your best friend...better than us mere mortals...! I still like your video though, shows the true process, with a Little editing. PS: You can, of course, get screwdrivers with nut-heads...you are not the only one, working with small scale...! But why pay for a Tool you can make...?!
Thanks for that Simon. Another good video. The wagons look really good.
Another thing I will have to try.
Thanks, enjoyed building and painting them.
Very nice job Simon, I will check to see if they make them in 00 looks fantastic........Steve
Thanks Steve. Not sure whether they do them in OO but there must be something similar, great fun to put together.
They look great Simon.
Thanks Stuart.
Very interesting video Simon i enjoyed it,i make my own bodies and use cheap hornby railroad chassis,cheers Tony
Thanks Tony, enjoyed making/painting them.
Very helpful, thank-you: so I can try acrylic paint directly on the plasic. But I'll use brushes since I haven't got the spray kit
Fantastic job Simon :-) I'm looking to make up some SR vans from the N gauge society kits
Thanks, enjoyed building them, good luck with the SR can kits.
Might get myself some of these for my layout
Looks like your air pressure is set a little high. Tamiya pains spray OK with the Tamiya thinners or with Isopropol. The generic acrylic thinners don't work well.
i just did a 7 plank open wagon-man you have to build the subframe as well-a lot harder to line up square and glue together.
Yeah sounds a lot more fiddly than the box van.
it was but worked out quite ok,plan to get some of those box van ones.
Just put that kit together today. Then found this vid, hehe.
Wow hey im from Weymouth.... Massachusettes xD
Hi 👍
Nice job you have done there Simon
Thanks David.
A coat of Matt varnish after will fix everything in place permanently and not detract from the finish
Great job buddy, cheers Stu
Cheers Stu.
I would try one of these myself, but I don't have an electron microscope...
Hey Simon, Have you ever found a source for replacing the plastic wheels of these kits with metal ones ?
is the kit just the parts from the standard ready to run peco model
would you not recount hand painting them then?
Just wondering what pressure your airbrush compressor was running to? Sounded a bit too pressurised which might give issues with coating layers of paint. Normally set mine to 2-2.5 psi
I would recommend you to use matt white by Gunze (Mr.Color) - best white I have ever used, only one layer gives you nice and rich colour.
Thanks for the tip!
ive used all purpose adhesive to glue it never botherd with the nuts
I've just built one of these :D
Does the pastel rub off easily and go everywhere or does It stick and not rub off ?
Little tip when putting tranfers on use small brush the position them. Thought you might like to see how im getting on with my N gauge layout but first is our 00 guage.
Update on layouts HUNTINGTON TMD AND MELSWELLS 19/5/2014
Thanks for the tip, never used transfers before. I'll take a look at your update.
Why don't you just use your airbrush for weathering the rolling stock like you did with the track?
I probably will use it for weathering rolling stock, need a bit more practise with it first though.
Amazing!
Thanks, subbed!
Simons Shed Thanks!
Nice video, I did a guards van, but didn't paint it, and yes them nuts are a pig ,,,,
Your video's are very 'woody' (see Monty Python's Woody words) , I like that
Thanks, love that sketch....very woody!
Use a nut spinner to fit the nuts it will make it easy.
Great
What scale is your electric train is
n gauge ( 1:148)
PLEASE STOP SAYING N GAUGE THE CORRECT TERM IS N SCALE!!!! PLEASE
I love N Gauge
The downside of N guage : it's too small