@@daveblake9804 you can run 4 lights, or 4 signals or 4 point motors or any combination. The only restriction I believe is you can just run the 1 motor. As for the units they are set up separately, but appear one after the other in the App
Flipping heck Peach you’ve knocked it right out of the park for us newbie’s once again. Muchas gracias. The thing is I really want to be able to automate my layout fully using Itrain. So unfortunately it looks as if I’ve got to go and get me a Roco Z21 as the Hornby controllers don’t work to good. You’re absolutely correct in what you say about Hornby not describing stuff, they are abysmal at it. Keep up the good work. Steve
Nicely worked through again Peachy. These are great wee units. I used one when the hm6000 came out first. Was likewise a bit confused at first about the track connection. In some ways a few of these around the house, with the hm7000 app, and you could control a smart home…! Just a thought😂
This is a great video Peachy for anyone wanting to control the accessories from the App and easy too follow too 👍👍👍 Cheers for the shout out, i do wonder though just how many 6010's can be connected to the App 🤔🤔🤔🤣😁
@@PeachyTT120 I read somewhere via google searching the number of 48.. i have a hunch 12 x 6010's will be the limit.. Maybe your Hornby friends may know the answer 🤔👍
Great insight Peachy into these units. Was hoping the latest Hornby TT Talk would embrace the accessory side with its future plans. I’m still on the fence regarding Bluetooth for everything. You’ll see where I’m going once I get one of those gadgets… A Round Tuit 😂
Hi Peachy. Great job as usual. Thanks for promoting TT120. I love it. Can't find a link to the variable voltage dropper? Keep it up. Looking forward to the next one.
@@ChrisLacey-u2j the link on eBay kept getting changed so I removed it. But since then I’ve used this with 15v & also 18v without the voltage regulator and it worked just fine
Well you’re stuff inspired me to go look at these units. And you were ahead of the gang using these units 5 months ago! Very well done. How’s the layout looking?
George demoed this in the Beyond the Buffers video back in May but didn’t really go into detail so your video is great. I’m probably being simplistic but surely the issue with track/bus power with DC is that with a simple circuit of track the power depends on what your controller is turned up to i.e. if you have the power at zero there is no power to your accessory model! Of course with DCC you don’t have this concern as power to the track is constant
Hello Damion, I’d missed that episode of BTB, I hope mine is of use. Yes, of course how DCC Bluetooth is powered hasn’t been considered till now, hopefully more stuff will become accessible to it soon.
Just purchased the HM6000 and very pleased with it. I’m just trying to figure out if I can add a CDU for a below baseboard point motor. Sorry for the newbie question.
hmm - but what saves us the unit introduced by your excellent video or what does it make more simple? And a test with a second module would be interesting to see if the app does not mix up the connected points, signals etc. We still need a bus to energize the locos on track even if we let them receiving their commands via bluetooth, the same is valid for the accessory decoders. Bluetooth spares us a central unit to create the DCC-signal if we do not mind to control everything on a touchscreen. Instead we need a constant DC supply with an appropriate overload protection to turn power quickly off in case of a derailment. Bluetooth spares us as well the DCC-address assignment which might be sometimes a bit tedious. But what about train resp. loco recognition at pivotal positions in the layout to support some automation?
Must have missed this video Chris but glad I have seen it now seen how easy it looks to go with hm7000 app had seen a little about it on DM stuff the other day between the both of you definitely going to get one but could expensive if you want a lot of points etc. going to look for more videos about it or do they do bigger units ? Thank you
Hi Peachy, you may be interested to know that I emailed Simon Kohler back in February this year about the HM7000 and the accessory unit HM6010 and if it would still be limited to 12 accessories like the HM6000 as this seemed very limiting. The answer I received stated the HM7000 should be able to handle limitless accessories. N.B. I believe PECO have some signals in the pipeline. I'm not sure if they're just semaphore signals or lights as well.
I would absolutely recommend it. Possibly the easiest way to start is with one of the sets; TRAIN SETS TT1001AM The Scotsman Train Set prf.hn/l/8xQn5X8 TT1001TXSM The Scotsman Train Set - Digital (Sound Fitted) prf.hn/l/VldBv4n TT1002M The Easterner Train Set prf.hn/l/QxojJvb TT1002TXSM The Easterner Train Set - Digital (Sound Fitted) prf.hn/l/yOmkqgA
Love this video. I’m getting the bug, time for some accessories me thinks 😁 Currently have a very basic OO setup. I’d love to go TT:120. Do you think TT:120 will ever get locos with smoke generators? Cheers, Gary B
Hi Peachy. Seeing your advice on using the DCC Concepts power supply, and having suffered a few intermittent power issues, I considered purchasing one. However, DCC Concepts consider them 'unsuitable' since they exceed Hornby tolerances. They said they " don't sell products for Hornby". Since you are using one can I assume there is no significant issue to worry about? Apologies if this is not the correct way to pose this question to you.
Hello John, I’m guessing DCC concepts are covering their backs, & I don’t blame them. I saw some other modellers using them so I asked a couple of tech guys who are members of MERG (Model electronic railway group) and discussed this issue, they advised me that they believe the HM7000 chips have voltage limiters so can easily cope with the 18v supply. And that the unit is a super deliverer of power so it shouldn’t be a problem. 11 months on and I’ve no issues
@@PeachyTT120 Thanks Peachy. I suspected they were being cautious. I have one of the voltage regulators you referred to, so, I guess I could wind the power down. That said, I also suspect that the real solution, particularly to the loss of Bluetooth, is a power bank. However, they are seeming permanently unavailable on the Hornby site, and as an 'elderly new comer' to the hobby, I'm not sure I have the nerve to install as you demonstrated in another video. keep the videos coming, they are very helpful for 'oldies' such as me!
Brief comments here - more detail on your post on the Hornby forum.. HM DC app has an artificial limit of 3 x 6010s. HM DCC app has no limit on number of devices, in fact these work as static nodes to make the Bluetooth mesh more robust. Depending upon power source - DC jack or Track, which can be DC or DCC depends upon the functionality of the device. With DC power you get the basic functions as seen on your video, with DCC power and at latest revision you get the advanced functionality of the R8247 V2.0 device (the innards are essentially the same apart from the added Bluetooth. HM DC app needs an early version of firmware but HM DCC app needs the later version as installed at the start of your video. If enabled in settings you can have accessory control showing at the top of the joystick icon screen along with your locos - these show in a side-scroll ribbon bar same as the locos.
Sorry Damian, I’m not sure what to suggest. Have you tried the Hornby Forum? They’re’s lots of clever people on there with a lot more experience than me. Good luck, hope you get it sorted.
@@PeachyTT120 I just did and I think I got the answer although I didn’t think it was obvious. Apparently you can’t power the unit direct from a bus that is fed from a DCC controller (in my case a Select). You need a separate DC 15v source or a transformer. I didn’t think that was clear from the instructions or your video but perhaps it’s just me
@@damianinCanadaTT-OO ah, but my video is pertaining to HM7000 Bluetooth DCC which basically means the track power (where I got my feed from) is for all intents the same as DC. As for “traditional” DCC I can’t comment as I’ve never used it, sorry.
@@PeachyTT120 sorry to have this whole conversation on RUclips but it helps my understanding. So I’m using DCC power for my HM7000 as per one of the recommended options from Hornby. You are using straight DC which I now understand it’s different. I think I get it now. I need to power my HM6010 from a different source. Confusing, at least to me 😂
Not sure on that one, but if they’re the normal 3 wire job it shouldn’t be that hard to sort. Obviously you’d need to wire it by description rather than colour code & you’d need to check they’re power needs but then 14v shouldn’t be a problem for any accessory.
Hi Chris hope you are well . Watching this video again cause I’m trying to set up hm6010 and noticed in the instructions you show the wiring shows red green black yet in your video it’s red black green which one should I go for thank you
I think you might be confusing the wiring for the point motor and the signal? Hornby point motor; red/black/green Hornby signal; red/green/black And just to confuse things further… Peco surface points (PL-11) is the same as the Hornby signal; red/green/black. 😂
@@PeachyTT120 cheers Chris thanks that’s a great help I do have a peco point motor have a few Hornby ones thought they were all broke . Thanks mate things are working now
The de-coupler is Hornby’s specific TT120 (see the affiliate link in the description) operated by Hornby’s surface mounted point motor. (Again, link in description)
Can I use non-Hornby point motors with the HM6010 and HM7000? If so which points are the best for under baseboard mounted point motors. Many thanks in advance.
Hello john. It’s bigger. It’s almost exactly midway between HO & European N gauge which is where it’s most popular. I think the scales work out like this, British OO = 1/76 World HO = 1/87 TT120 = 1/120 British N = 1/148 World N = 1/160 So smaller than OO but bigger than N
Great video, I have been looking for this for ages - thanks
Glad if it’s of some help
Just ordered the hm6010 and surface points problem plugs and sockets !
Love the site
Excellent! Glad you’re enjoying it.
Question how many lights can you run on this unit q2 if I get another unit do they run linked or sperate units
@@daveblake9804 you can run 4 lights, or 4 signals or 4 point motors or any combination. The only restriction I believe is you can just run the 1 motor.
As for the units they are set up separately, but appear one after the other in the App
Really useful video and like the detail too as new to hobby good too two versions lol
Cheers Postman
Fantastic 👍 thanks Peachy
Cheers Dave. Glad you liked it. How was the sound?
@@PeachyTT120 Spot on mate😊
Cheers peachy I definitely will be getting one and see how I get on thank you
Flipping heck Peach you’ve knocked it right out of the park for us newbie’s once again. Muchas
gracias. The thing is I really want to be able to automate my layout fully using Itrain. So unfortunately it looks as if I’ve got to go and get me a Roco Z21 as the Hornby controllers don’t work to good. You’re absolutely correct in what you say about Hornby not describing stuff, they are abysmal at it. Keep up the good work.
Steve
Cheers Steve, if you’re interested in the ins & outs of Roco Z21, subscribe to This Way Works as I think he’s planning on using it.
Oh thanks our kid! Brill @@PeachyTT120
You can easily use the HM6010 with any DCC controller (and iTrain). It fully supports DCC with update 1.10.
@@stormbowman7148 🚂👍
Nicely worked through again Peachy. These are great wee units. I used one when the hm6000 came out first. Was likewise a bit confused at first about the track connection. In some ways a few of these around the house, with the hm7000 app, and you could control a smart home…! Just a thought😂
Lol, my wife wouldn’t be happy! 🤣
This is a great video Peachy for anyone wanting to control the accessories from the App and easy too follow too 👍👍👍
Cheers for the shout out, i do wonder though just how many 6010's can be connected to the App 🤔🤔🤔🤣😁
Well I’ve got 4 that I’ll be trying later. I’ll let you know how I get on
@@PeachyTT120 I read somewhere via google searching the number of 48.. i have a hunch 12 x 6010's will be the limit.. Maybe your Hornby friends may know the answer 🤔👍
@@ThisWayWorksTWW I think 48 will do for me! 😜
Apparently it’s limitless! Whoop! Whoop!
Great insight Peachy into these units. Was hoping the latest Hornby TT Talk would embrace the accessory side with its future plans. I’m still on the fence regarding Bluetooth for everything. You’ll see where I’m going once I get one of those gadgets… A Round Tuit 😂
Hi Peachy. Great job as usual. Thanks for promoting TT120. I love it. Can't find a link to the variable voltage dropper? Keep it up. Looking forward to the next one.
@@ChrisLacey-u2j the link on eBay kept getting changed so I removed it. But since then I’ve used this with 15v & also 18v without the voltage regulator and it worked just fine
@@PeachyTT120 That's good news thank you for that.
All those fancy electronic devices have spoiled you Chris 😂
Ruined I am… never to use my magic finger again!
Thanks for the mention.. I plan to make my video's much better in the future..
Well you’re stuff inspired me to go look at these units. And you were ahead of the gang using these units 5 months ago! Very well done.
How’s the layout looking?
TMC had HM6010s on sale. I snagged two of them but they had two remaining last time I looked
George demoed this in the Beyond the Buffers video back in May but didn’t really go into detail so your video is great. I’m probably being simplistic but surely the issue with track/bus power with DC is that with a simple circuit of track the power depends on what your controller is turned up to i.e. if you have the power at zero there is no power to your accessory model! Of course with DCC you don’t have this concern as power to the track is constant
Hello Damion, I’d missed that episode of BTB, I hope mine is of use.
Yes, of course how DCC Bluetooth is powered hasn’t been considered till now, hopefully more stuff will become accessible to it soon.
Just purchased the HM6000 and very pleased with it. I’m just trying to figure out if I can add a CDU for a below baseboard point motor. Sorry for the newbie question.
What’s the question?
The point motor works fine until I add the actual point and there doesn’t appear to enough power to switch the point.
Clever !
Cheers
hmm - but what saves us the unit introduced by your excellent video or what does it make more simple? And a test with a second module would be interesting to see if the app does not mix up the connected points, signals etc.
We still need a bus to energize the locos on track even if we let them receiving their commands via bluetooth, the same is valid for the accessory decoders. Bluetooth spares us a central unit to create the DCC-signal if we do not mind to control everything on a touchscreen. Instead we need a constant DC supply with an appropriate overload protection to turn power quickly off in case of a derailment. Bluetooth spares us as well the DCC-address assignment which might be sometimes a bit tedious.
But what about train resp. loco recognition at pivotal positions in the layout to support some automation?
👍
Must have missed this video Chris but glad I have seen it now seen how easy it looks to go with hm7000 app had seen a little about it on DM stuff the other day between the both of you definitely going to get one but could expensive if you want a lot of points etc. going to look for more videos about it or do they do bigger units ? Thank you
Unfortunately Hornby only make this version that supports 4 accessories. Still compared to other systems it’s not the most expensive
Hi Peachy, you may be interested to know that I emailed Simon Kohler back in February this year about the HM7000 and the accessory unit HM6010 and if it would still be limited to 12 accessories like the HM6000 as this seemed very limiting.
The answer I received stated the HM7000 should be able to handle limitless accessories.
N.B. I believe PECO have some signals in the pipeline. I'm not sure if they're just semaphore signals or lights as well.
That answer is very interesting, thanks.
Shame Simon’s not there anymore.
thank you for your prompt reply can you recomend the new tt120 as i am trying to decide which way to go
I would absolutely recommend it. Possibly the easiest way to start is with one of the sets;
TRAIN SETS
TT1001AM The Scotsman Train Set prf.hn/l/8xQn5X8
TT1001TXSM The Scotsman Train Set - Digital (Sound Fitted) prf.hn/l/VldBv4n
TT1002M The Easterner Train Set prf.hn/l/QxojJvb
TT1002TXSM The Easterner Train Set - Digital (Sound Fitted) prf.hn/l/yOmkqgA
Love this video. I’m getting the bug, time for some accessories me thinks 😁
Currently have a very basic OO setup.
I’d love to go TT:120.
Do you think TT:120 will ever get locos with smoke generators?
Cheers,
Gary B
Hi Peachy. Seeing your advice on using the DCC Concepts power supply, and having suffered a few intermittent power issues, I considered purchasing one. However, DCC Concepts consider them 'unsuitable' since they exceed Hornby tolerances. They said they " don't sell products for Hornby". Since you are using one can I assume there is no significant issue to worry about? Apologies if this is not the correct way to pose this question to you.
Hello John, I’m guessing DCC concepts are covering their backs, & I don’t blame them.
I saw some other modellers using them so I asked a couple of tech guys who are members of MERG (Model electronic railway group) and discussed this issue, they advised me that they believe the HM7000 chips have voltage limiters so can easily cope with the 18v supply. And that the unit is a super deliverer of power so it shouldn’t be a problem. 11 months on and I’ve no issues
@@PeachyTT120 Thanks Peachy. I suspected they were being cautious. I have one of the voltage regulators you referred to, so, I guess I could wind the power down. That said, I also suspect that the real solution, particularly to the loss of Bluetooth, is a power bank. However, they are seeming permanently unavailable on the Hornby site, and as an 'elderly new comer' to the hobby, I'm not sure I have the nerve to install as you demonstrated in another video. keep the videos coming, they are very helpful for 'oldies' such as me!
Brief comments here - more detail on your post on the Hornby forum..
HM DC app has an artificial limit of 3 x 6010s. HM DCC app has no limit on number of devices, in fact these work as static nodes to make the Bluetooth mesh more robust.
Depending upon power source - DC jack or Track, which can be DC or DCC depends upon the functionality of the device. With DC power you get the basic functions as seen on your video, with DCC power and at latest revision you get the advanced functionality of the R8247 V2.0 device (the innards are essentially the same apart from the added Bluetooth. HM DC app needs an early version of firmware but HM DCC app needs the later version as installed at the start of your video.
If enabled in settings you can have accessory control showing at the top of the joystick icon screen along with your locos - these show in a side-scroll ribbon bar same as the locos.
Excellent info, thanks 🙏
Ok. Tried to hook my two up today. Very excited but the device scan doesn’t find them 😢. Not sure what to do next. The power light is on
Sorry Damian, I’m not sure what to suggest. Have you tried the Hornby Forum? They’re’s lots of clever people on there with a lot more experience than me. Good luck, hope you get it sorted.
@@PeachyTT120 I just did and I think I got the answer although I didn’t think it was obvious. Apparently you can’t power the unit direct from a bus that is fed from a DCC controller (in my case a Select). You need a separate DC 15v source or a transformer. I didn’t think that was clear from the instructions or your video but perhaps it’s just me
@@damianinCanadaTT-OO ah, but my video is pertaining to HM7000 Bluetooth DCC which basically means the track power (where I got my feed from) is for all intents the same as DC.
As for “traditional” DCC I can’t comment as I’ve never used it, sorry.
@@PeachyTT120 sorry to have this whole conversation on RUclips but it helps my understanding. So I’m using DCC power for my HM7000 as per one of the recommended options from Hornby. You are using straight DC which I now understand it’s different. I think I get it now. I need to power my HM6010 from a different source. Confusing, at least to me 😂
@@damianinCanadaTT-OO 👍
how would it work with dcc concepts IP digital point motors?
Not sure on that one, but if they’re the normal 3 wire job it shouldn’t be that hard to sort. Obviously you’d need to wire it by description rather than colour code & you’d need to check they’re power needs but then 14v shouldn’t be a problem for any accessory.
Hi Chris hope you are well . Watching this video again cause I’m trying to set up hm6010 and noticed in the instructions you show the wiring shows red green black yet in your video it’s red black green which one should I go for thank you
I think you might be confusing the wiring for the point motor and the signal?
Hornby point motor; red/black/green
Hornby signal; red/green/black
And just to confuse things further…
Peco surface points (PL-11) is the same as the Hornby signal; red/green/black. 😂
@@PeachyTT120 cheers Chris thanks that’s a great help I do have a peco point motor have a few Hornby ones thought they were all broke . Thanks mate things are working now
@@ianhughes-zf1ll excellent
What kind of de coupler is that ?
The de-coupler is Hornby’s specific TT120 (see the affiliate link in the description) operated by Hornby’s surface mounted point motor. (Again, link in description)
Peachy, I’ve several older, smaller R405s that Rich at TWW is upgrading to LEDs. Do you think that I could operate 4 of them on each 6010?
Don’t see why not, but Rich has gone and bought one of these units so I’m sure he’d be happy to test them.
Can I use non-Hornby point motors with the HM6010 and HM7000? If so which points are the best for under baseboard mounted point motors. Many thanks in advance.
can i ask is tt120 the same as n gauge or smaller or bigger
Hello john. It’s bigger. It’s almost exactly midway between HO & European N gauge which is where it’s most popular. I think the scales work out like this,
British OO = 1/76
World HO = 1/87
TT120 = 1/120
British N = 1/148
World N = 1/160
So smaller than OO but bigger than N
I hate channels where they don't talk
Some say I talk too much! 🤣🤣
@@PeachyTT120 nah, just right ...