Thanks Captain Sean. I have never done a valve adjustment before. Your video took away enough of my fear to allow me to do it. You didn’t show the torque required for the intake manifold. I found them on a shop manual diagram. Don’t know if you can insert or overlay them on your very well done video, but here they are for those that don’t have a shop manual. All the 12mm nuts and bolts should be tightened to 20 foot pounds. The one 10mm bolt should be tightened to 9 foot pounds. I almost gave up on doing this job because I got stuck trying to disconnect the 2p connector for the water in the fuel sensor. I was pushing down on the connector release like every other connector on this job requires until I realized that it has to be lifted up to be released as you said. I used a very sharp pointed tool with a bend on the end to poke into the plastic end of the connector that the wires are on and pull on it so that I didn’t need to pull on the wires to disconnect it. I have used your videos for the fuel filters and water pump and they were very helpful. All your knowledge saved us that watched your videos a lot of headaches and money. Thanks.
Thank you for that extra info. I skipped the torque values on the intake manifolds as the manual skips them as well, but you're right, they do have the general values and I should have put that in the video. I'm not the most online savvy but I'll see if I can update it as I also wanted to update the fuel filter video to show that testing they're sealed is done by turning the key to "ON" without starting and will show any fuel leaks from the fuel pump priming the system. Thanks for the feedback and doing it yourself, I appreciate it.
I wish ALL RUclips videos were as concise as yours 👏🏻 you instill confidence for all of us. Our water rescue unit uses Honda 2004 200hp motors. Would the steps be the same as your 225 hp motors ? Thank you and Aloha
I have found no video on RUclips about bf225 VST removal or repair. My question is do I have to take the intake manifold off of a 2004 BF 225 to remove the VST tank to replace the fuel pump? Or can I remove the VST efficiently without removing the intake?
My vtec aint kicking in , i get 4200 rpm , but its capable of more , alarm comes and goes , but it runs pretty good for no power/ vtec , i gotta find the book , any ideas where to look ? I just went through my fuel filters and vst tank , poly tank dished top water issues , got it sealed finally , trying to burn through that last test tank of fuel , it seems to be water free so far ..about to go through the vst tank again , but i dont think thats it this time ..
Yeah its on the bottom in the back , below the intake , so i didn't remove the intake , the bolts on mine need replacing everytime i do it , like my motor sits to low or something , i raised it once , mine ended up being throttle adjustment , the last shop that worked on it messed that up ..its been running good lately , batteries died last trip , but they were due ..it started on barely any battery ....fish finder said low voltage , and shut down , but came back on whith alternator charging it , cut the trip a little short , but i just idled from then on ..
SENTRY fuel additive Will emulsify the water in the fuel and water in the fuel system and burn it out. The stuff is remarkable. Mike thanks for the heads up. my motor sits too low also gets saltwater. I’ll be rinsing my VST tank with freshwater every time I’m nack. Fuel pumps are in both engines are running really appreciate you making your videos and responding. Thank you.
Hi Captain Sean, have a question about timing belt.J've bought 2002 honda with 412 hours after full service in england ( seller told me that and shows documents from honda dealer) but he doesnt know anything about timing belt changing , shall j change it or not? How often timing belt should be changed? Excuse for my english , j am from east europe, Poland ( now engine is in my place in Poland that why is hard to get any info's from english honda dealer) , greets!
Shop Manual says to check/adjust every year or 200 hours but has no service life info I could find. To check the whole thing remove the silencer case and turn the crankshaft pulley clockwise (make sure batteries are off or disconnected so no chance it can turn over). Make sure there are no deformities or cracks or contaminants (oil, dirt, saltwater damage) on the belt. That's what we do. 9 years of service and thousands of hours later they are still just fine on ours so far. If the 2002 was stored outside in weather it may be considerably worse. Changing it out seems pretty straightforward according to manual but I've never done it. Manual specifically warns against using an impact driver over their special tools for removing certain pulleys though.
The order they adjust is 1, 4, 2, 5, 3, 6. You will see the number by the hash mark on the cam gear/pulley. At 17:22 the numbers scroll across the screen with the corresponding cylinders. Looking at it from that angle the cylinders on the left are 4,5,6 and the right are ( from the top) 1, 2, 3. If I were a better video editor it would be clear😔. Hope that helps.
Which fuel filter? I imagine the high pressure? Are you talking about the diaphragm that connects to the intake manifold? It kind of looks like a flying saucer?
Hi, thanks a lot for these videos. Regarding the internal anodes, I see the diagram at boats.net that we need to open the exhaust manifolds to get to some, and we need to get close into the cylinder block to get to others(?). What about a separate video to show how to access these anodes? How often do they typically need to be replaced for saltwater use? Mine is reaching 500h soon (over 8 years) and have never been checked.
I have only been checking them when there is an issue with the exhaust. I imagine every few years if you run them daily but, I admit, I hate dealing with the manifold seal to the mount and often go through more than one for the job and have not found a smooth way to nail it every time yet...thus...no video yet.
So at this point it would be the time to change the cams to something more high performance oriented if in fact somebody makes such cams for the Honda outboard.
Sean, my BF225 (320 hrs) had idler bearing give out throwing the timing belt. Has this ever happened to you and if so what kind if damage if any happened to the heads?
I have never had that happen or heard of that happening to a competitor here. Looking at honda tech or hull truth forums it seems like it is an interference engine so the pistons would likely have come into contact with the valves. I'd probably talk to a dealer. I don't have a lot of experience with timing belt issues sorry.
Sean, I enjoy watching your videos. I'd suggest changing the timing belt, idler pulleys and tensioner bearings if you have a ton of hours on them. At high RPMs the interference motors will destroy the heads if it throws the belt, just like on a car.... You can RUclips Honda Timing belt and see the damage to the valves. I found a few forums where this has happened to others as well. Buy the Honda Service Sop Manual online for $115. Good Luck!
Captain Sean, I follow your channel religiously because I'm a new boat owner and because I have a limited amount of knowledge about engines. I have a question which may seem stupid but does the oil need to be drained before conducting this procedure?
Thanks for the compliment as that is the point of my videos! This procedure does not require the oil to be drained. I feel like most people don't need this to be done as badly as a commercial operator since we put on 100hrs/month. Our engines get a bad "cough" at idle and shake more at idle when they need an adjustment. For most weekend operators I feel like and adjustment every 400hrs or 4 years should be fine. (I wait about 1200 and only do mine once a year so take my advice with a grain of salt) Keep in mind the Honda Service Manual recommends a check every 200 hours or every year.
Thank you for the quick reply, my engines only have 600 hours, but they are not running as smooth as when I first got the boat. The rough idle and shake is what made me think of conducting this procedure. I'm pretty sure this procedure hasn't been done ever. Thanks again, do you have a video for the propeller holder and seal replacement?@@captainsean4851
I do not have a video of the lower unit seal replacement. I need to get on making videos again. If you do a valve adjustment I'd recommend opening the exhaust valves on the larger side of spec (.32mm) and tighten intake to low side of spec (.20mm) and the job seems to hold a good sound at idle for more months. The other thing you should do is pull off you IAC valve (2 bolts and unclipping a harness) and take some throttle body cleaner and a toothbrush and clean off the carbon from the screen. @@augustinerazo1734
I have been doing it yearly which is 1,000-1,200 hours. I'd like to do it every 500-600 hours but our schedule does not allow for the engines to sit for 2 days very often (1 day to get cold, another day to do the adjustment). I can hear the engines at idle when they want another adjustment. They tend to "cough" slightly and wiggle more. Now, I leave the exhaust valves at the high end of the spec (.32 mm) and the intake at the low end (.20mm) since the exhaust valves seem to close and the intake seem to open more as time goes on. Is this normal? Beats me but it's my experience. I have engines now with over 6,000 hours and every 1,000 hours seems to be fine. I hope this helps.
@@captainsean4851 Don't know if you still follow this but on the auto engines you can scan for the MAP sensor voltage. This is from a site I goto for some info while working on my MDX 2010 with 278K miles. This guy works at a dealer and has for some time. It looks like the one above in your video, a J series as well. "I found that all of my valves were on the loose side. I knew this would be the case going in, because when I bought the car I ran a live data review of the engine parameters and found that my MAP sensor value was on the low side at around .80v. This is indicative of loose valves and/or a small vacuum leak. I was pretty confident that I did not have a vacuum leak, so just waited for this repair to do the valve adjustment. It's a pain in the ass to adjust the exhaust valves on these, but I got it done and restored my MAP sensor reading to the target range of .86V." source; www.mdxers.org/threads/bought-a-new-to-me-beater-dd-mdx.170739/page-3#post-1500217 If you used a synthetic oil it might extend the adjustment interval. Gates makes a Kevlar timing belt that I bet fit this engine.
@@robertjackson7590 Thanks for the heads up. If the MAP sensor is off it may be a manufacturing cause since it happens on every engine every year from the first adjustment. I can flash the engine and look into it though. As for the engine oil I'm hesitant on going with anything but Honda for now. I know they add chemicals to keep it from foaming at high rpm's and help fight corrosion. I know companies like AMSoil make FC-W grade oils that are synthetic but I tend to doubt they have the same amount of research going into outboards that Honda would.
@@captainsean4851 "but I tend to doubt they have the same amount of research going into outboards that Honda would." My strategy is if that's all they do, they'll be the best at it. This holds true on everything. Honda doesn't make oil and Amsoil does, that's what they do, that's all they do. Honda's engineers determine what they want in an oil and have Castro Oil, Exxon or someone to supply it with their label. Honda's not in the oil business. "they add chemicals to keep it from foaming at high rpm's and help fight corrosion". If you look at oil like it was ball bearings the petroleum base oil would have balls of all different sizes. If it's synthetic base, it's man made and all the balls would be made exactly the same size. This gives better load carrying capabilities. The additives package includes friction modifiers, anti foaming agents, rust inhibitors, antioxidants, detergents and none of these have lubricating qualities. Here's a link to an ME that also races BB Chevy's and explains a lot of the details and mega lists of filters and oils of many different type and brands. 540ratblog.wordpress.com/2013/06/20/motor-oil-wear-test-ranking/ My wife and I run Acura cars and I just dropped by to see what the V6 Honda outboards looked like. I have a Hydrostream Voyager XT 1991 with a 250 HPDI VMax.
@@robertjackson7590 I agree oil companies have more research in oil but I don't know how much oil companies care about the outboard market and have tested their products thoroughly. I know Honda cares about outboards and does teardowns after significant use. I know Honda doesn't make oil but I'm confident they chose a quality brand with the right additives based on oil samples taken after they're run. I know synthetic it a better oil, I run synthetic in all my trucks. I guess the catch for me is wondering if the gains I'd get from synthetic would be worth the potential loss I'd get from a bad additive package. In the end, I've got one engine with almost 9K hours in salt water on it that's 10 years old and starts and runs great that's only ever had Honda engine oil.
Hi mate loving your videos.... I’m looking at buying a boat with a 2002-2004 Honda 225hp outboard on it with 1250 hours I’m told the boat has been sitting for 3 years as the owner of the boat passed away. Can you recommend any essential maintenance I should do before attempting to take it for a test drive? Water pump impeller and drain fuel? Cheers from New Zealand
Honestly, I don't have a lot of experience with buying used motors like that. However, there are some things to look out for that I've heard from our dealership and friends who have purchased boats. Fuel in the US tends to get more like jelly (thicken) as it sits. Ask if they had a fuel stabilizer or ethanol free fuel (maybe all is ethanol free in NZ🤷♂️) I've heard it had to be cleared all the way from the water strainer all the way to the high pressure fuel pump (whole vapor separator assy actually) with someone who had it sitting for a long time. Maybe undo the low pressure filter 3 screws and see if the gas seems to be normal. Impeller (H2O pump) may need to be new but Honda impellers are pretty hardy. If you start it and it's "pissing" water well you're probably ok. (the pissing should strengthen with engine RPM also) If it's good maybe change within the first year to be safe. The last part is corrosion. Look at the state of the wiring harness and unchecked salt build-up around the cowling joints. Get all the salt cakes off with fresh water (carefully) and inspect what the salt has been sitting on. If it were me, I'd also undo the lower cowlings (as you see in my video for the high pressure fuel filter), start it on land, and inspect for leaks or any air leaks in the crankcase lines. Hope that helps
Thanks for this informative video. I'm looking at buying a couple of used 2008 225 outboards. Is there any specific problems that you may suggest i look out for? One of the guys asked me to stay from them if they were submerged, because one of the covers has some minor scratches. Any advice
I have never purchased a used outboard so I don't have any experience there. I equate a submerged engine to a salvage title car kind of...you don't know how it will perform and last and it's most likely not good. I have noticed maintaining the engines makes a huge difference, hence, these videos. Oil changes (with filter every 200) need to be don every 100 hrs or year. Do they change spark plugs? (I've seen other outboard owners wait and they have trouble getting them out). Fuel filters? Winterize if needed? Start them at least every 2 months if not winterized? What are their engine checks like? Lower unit oil changed every 100 hours or year? Did they every get valves adjusted? (makes a bigger difference if they run wide open a lot and have hundreds/thousands of hours without service) O2 sensors do tend to go out in salty environments but, other than that, I have heard stories from my passengers about abysmal maintenance with bulletproof results. I love the Hondas and think you will too if they're decently maintained.
Thank you much for that. Nobody really knows if the outboards were submerged or not. I'll be taking one of the Honda technicians to check for any signs of being submerged. For $2800 per outboard, it's a great price. Thanks once again
Hey mate thanks for another great video guide. I've got a BF135 2006 with 400 hours on it. Is it worth doing the valve clearance adjustment yet or can I keep going another few hundred hours? Cheers
My motors typically run 1200 hours before they get a valve job but that is their yearly rate. I would think 400 you're still fine. I think the book calls to check them every 200 but that seems pretty ambitious to me. I listen for a rough idle with a sound like exhaust trying to get out before the valve opens or closes early (like putting your hand over a blower and stopping the air). I know other commercial Honda owners here that adjust their valves every couple thousand hours or some (Yamaha owners) that have over 6000hrs without touching the valves! If you run wide open throttle a lot and want them to last I'd try and adjust them at least by 1000 hrs if not maybe 800hrs.
@@captainsean4851 Any idea about not adjust valve property will shows error code?? My motor is a Yamaha 4 stroke running good for 1500 hours now and i scan it with the diagnostic software with nothing error report actually. Thanks.
No idea about the Yamahas except that a commercial guy up the road never does them since they involve shims. They are only 115's but he says they have over 6,000hrs on them with no significant problems. I'm also confused, did you adjust your valves and there's now a "check engine" code? Or, did you not adjust them? @@jerrychf
@@captainsean4851 Nope, not done it yet because it seems runs good even my manual also said need to inspect the valve or adjust even 300 hours. Mine also a F115 with 1500 hours on it.
If it's anything like the commercial operator I know I think you'll be fine for quite some time. The only thing I can say from talking to other guys around here is that the more often you run high rpms for extended periods of time the more you need to maintain your engine. Run at 3500-4000 rpm no worries. If every time you go it's wide open...you may want to treat it as more of the high performance machine that it is.@@jerrychf
Hi, dera Captain, first i send a great apollogies for my english, i from Mexico. you have a video or pics how to give maintenace to IAB (intanke air bypass) thanks!!!!
I don't have a video on that but I have messed with them before. If you look up my video on "adjusting valve lash" it shows how to take off the intake manifold. Once that's off, you can access the phillips there and disconnect the air tubes by hand. I used a long need nose to fish out the valve. What are your symptoms? V-Tech issues?
Thanks Captain Sean. I have never done a valve adjustment before. Your video took away enough of my fear to allow me to do it. You didn’t show the torque required for the intake manifold. I found them on a shop manual diagram. Don’t know if you can insert or overlay them on your very well done video, but here they are for those that don’t have a shop manual. All the 12mm nuts and bolts should be tightened to 20 foot pounds. The one 10mm bolt should be tightened to 9 foot pounds. I almost gave up on doing this job because I got stuck trying to disconnect the 2p connector for the water in the fuel sensor. I was pushing down on the connector release like every other connector on this job requires until I realized that it has to be lifted up to be released as you said. I used a very sharp pointed tool with a bend on the end to poke into the plastic end of the connector that the wires are on and pull on it so that I didn’t need to pull on the wires to disconnect it. I have used your videos for the fuel filters and water pump and they were very helpful. All your knowledge saved us that watched your videos a lot of headaches and money. Thanks.
Thank you for that extra info. I skipped the torque values on the intake manifolds as the manual skips them as well, but you're right, they do have the general values and I should have put that in the video. I'm not the most online savvy but I'll see if I can update it as I also wanted to update the fuel filter video to show that testing they're sealed is done by turning the key to "ON" without starting and will show any fuel leaks from the fuel pump priming the system. Thanks for the feedback and doing it yourself, I appreciate it.
Thank you for all your videos! I just bought a Worldcat 270ec with BF 225’s 380hrs on them and will be doing a lot of maintenance myself.
Excellent video! Thank you for making it, I'm long overdue for this adjustment. I'll be doing it in the spring.
I wish ALL RUclips videos were as concise as yours 👏🏻 you instill confidence for all of us. Our water rescue unit uses Honda 2004 200hp motors. Would the steps be the same as your 225 hp motors ? Thank you and Aloha
Wonder if there use J series code for this block.
Wonder if the captain has a video to clean the VST? Thanks
By the way, thank you very much. I really appreciate this video.
Where you finder the tool for caiber
I have found no video on RUclips about bf225 VST removal or repair. My question is do I have to take the intake manifold off of a 2004 BF 225 to remove the VST tank to replace the fuel pump? Or can I remove the VST efficiently without removing the intake?
can you do one on removing the fuel rail and injectors, I sucked up a bunch of water.
I have a question hopefully you could answer: if the valve not right will that make the motor Surging?
My vtec aint kicking in , i get 4200 rpm , but its capable of more , alarm comes and goes , but it runs pretty good for no power/ vtec , i gotta find the book , any ideas where to look ? I just went through my fuel filters and vst tank , poly tank dished top water issues , got it sealed finally , trying to burn through that last test tank of fuel , it seems to be water free so far ..about to go through the vst tank again , but i dont think thats it this time ..
Can you remove vst tank on a 04 bf225 without removing intake? Fuel pump is bad.
Yeah its on the bottom in the back , below the intake , so i didn't remove the intake , the bolts on mine need replacing everytime i do it , like my motor sits to low or something , i raised it once , mine ended up being throttle adjustment , the last shop that worked on it messed that up ..its been running good lately , batteries died last trip , but they were due ..it started on barely any battery ....fish finder said low voltage , and shut down , but came back on whith alternator charging it , cut the trip a little short , but i just idled from then on ..
SENTRY fuel additive
Will emulsify the water in the fuel and water in the fuel system and burn it out. The stuff is remarkable. Mike thanks for the heads up. my motor sits too low also gets saltwater. I’ll be rinsing my VST tank with freshwater every time I’m nack. Fuel pumps are in both engines are running really appreciate you making your videos and responding. Thank you.
Great video can you answer if I have oil in the plug tube di I have to pull the head to replace a seal ?
Scott henderson its the tappet/ valve cover gaskets , there not to bad to change yourself
In inches what side i need
Cuáles son las bombas de baja y alta?
Is 0.20 in mm and in inches
buona sera hai un video mentre cambi gli anodi o zinchi del motore 225 honda? grazie
Hi Captain Sean, have a question about timing belt.J've bought 2002 honda with 412 hours after full service in england ( seller told me that and shows documents from honda dealer) but he doesnt know anything about timing belt changing , shall j change it or not? How often timing belt should be changed? Excuse for my english , j am from east europe, Poland ( now engine is in my place in Poland that why is hard to get any info's from english honda dealer) , greets!
Shop Manual says to check/adjust every year or 200 hours but has no service life info I could find. To check the whole thing remove the silencer case and turn the crankshaft pulley clockwise (make sure batteries are off or disconnected so no chance it can turn over). Make sure there are no deformities or cracks or contaminants (oil, dirt, saltwater damage) on the belt. That's what we do. 9 years of service and thousands of hours later they are still just fine on ours so far. If the 2002 was stored outside in weather it may be considerably worse. Changing it out seems pretty straightforward according to manual but I've never done it. Manual specifically warns against using an impact driver over their special tools for removing certain pulleys though.
is there a corresponding number on the pulley for the order of adjustment 1 4 ? ? ? ? thanks great video
The order they adjust is 1, 4, 2, 5, 3, 6. You will see the number by the hash mark on the cam gear/pulley. At 17:22 the numbers scroll across the screen with the corresponding cylinders. Looking at it from that angle the cylinders on the left are 4,5,6 and the right are ( from the top) 1, 2, 3. If I were a better video editor it would be clear😔. Hope that helps.
What is the little metal piece? When replacing fuel filter it broke
Which fuel filter? I imagine the high pressure? Are you talking about the diaphragm that connects to the intake manifold? It kind of looks like a flying saucer?
Please also upload a video of changing the timing belt.^^
Hi, thanks a lot for these videos. Regarding the internal anodes, I see the diagram at boats.net that we need to open the exhaust manifolds to get to some, and we need to get close into the cylinder block to get to others(?). What about a separate video to show how to access these anodes? How often do they typically need to be replaced for saltwater use? Mine is reaching 500h soon (over 8 years) and have never been checked.
I have only been checking them when there is an issue with the exhaust. I imagine every few years if you run them daily but, I admit, I hate dealing with the manifold seal to the mount and often go through more than one for the job and have not found a smooth way to nail it every time yet...thus...no video yet.
How long did the job take you ?
So at this point it would be the time to change the cams to something more high performance oriented if in fact somebody makes such cams for the Honda outboard.
Sean, my BF225 (320 hrs) had idler bearing give out throwing the timing belt. Has this ever happened to you and if so what kind if damage if any happened to the heads?
I have never had that happen or heard of that happening to a competitor here. Looking at honda tech or hull truth forums it seems like it is an interference engine so the pistons would likely have come into contact with the valves. I'd probably talk to a dealer. I don't have a lot of experience with timing belt issues sorry.
Sean, I enjoy watching your videos. I'd suggest changing the timing belt, idler pulleys and tensioner bearings if you have a ton of hours on them. At high RPMs the interference motors will destroy the heads if it throws the belt, just like on a car.... You can RUclips Honda Timing belt and see the damage to the valves. I found a few forums where this has happened to others as well. Buy the Honda Service Sop Manual online for $115. Good Luck!
Captain Sean, I follow your channel religiously because I'm a new boat owner and because I have a limited amount of knowledge about engines. I have a question which may seem stupid but does the oil need to be drained before conducting this procedure?
Thanks for the compliment as that is the point of my videos! This procedure does not require the oil to be drained. I feel like most people don't need this to be done as badly as a commercial operator since we put on 100hrs/month. Our engines get a bad "cough" at idle and shake more at idle when they need an adjustment. For most weekend operators I feel like and adjustment every 400hrs or 4 years should be fine. (I wait about 1200 and only do mine once a year so take my advice with a grain of salt) Keep in mind the Honda Service Manual recommends a check every 200 hours or every year.
Thank you for the quick reply, my engines only have 600 hours, but they are not running as smooth as when I first got the boat. The rough idle and shake is what made me think of conducting this procedure. I'm pretty sure this procedure hasn't been done ever. Thanks again, do you have a video for the propeller holder and seal replacement?@@captainsean4851
I do not have a video of the lower unit seal replacement. I need to get on making videos again. If you do a valve adjustment I'd recommend opening the exhaust valves on the larger side of spec (.32mm) and tighten intake to low side of spec (.20mm) and the job seems to hold a good sound at idle for more months. The other thing you should do is pull off you IAC valve (2 bolts and unclipping a harness) and take some throttle body cleaner and a toothbrush and clean off the carbon from the screen. @@augustinerazo1734
Thanks captain, cheers and Hola from Venezuela,, how often have you really found necessary to do this job?
I have been doing it yearly which is 1,000-1,200 hours. I'd like to do it every 500-600 hours but our schedule does not allow for the engines to sit for 2 days very often (1 day to get cold, another day to do the adjustment). I can hear the engines at idle when they want another adjustment. They tend to "cough" slightly and wiggle more. Now, I leave the exhaust valves at the high end of the spec (.32 mm) and the intake at the low end (.20mm) since the exhaust valves seem to close and the intake seem to open more as time goes on. Is this normal? Beats me but it's my experience. I have engines now with over 6,000 hours and every 1,000 hours seems to be fine. I hope this helps.
@@captainsean4851 Don't know if you still follow this but on the auto engines you can scan for the MAP sensor voltage. This is from a site I goto for some info while working on my MDX 2010 with 278K miles. This guy works at a dealer and has for some time. It looks like the one above in your video, a J series as well.
"I found that all of my valves were on the loose side. I knew this would be the case going in, because when I bought the car I ran a live data review of the engine parameters and found that my MAP sensor value was on the low side at around .80v. This is indicative of loose valves and/or a small vacuum leak. I was pretty confident that I did not have a vacuum leak, so just waited for this repair to do the valve adjustment. It's a pain in the ass to adjust the exhaust valves on these, but I got it done and restored my MAP sensor reading to the target range of .86V."
source;
www.mdxers.org/threads/bought-a-new-to-me-beater-dd-mdx.170739/page-3#post-1500217
If you used a synthetic oil it might extend the adjustment interval. Gates makes a Kevlar timing belt that I bet fit this engine.
@@robertjackson7590 Thanks for the heads up. If the MAP sensor is off it may be a manufacturing cause since it happens on every engine every year from the first adjustment. I can flash the engine and look into it though. As for the engine oil I'm hesitant on going with anything but Honda for now. I know they add chemicals to keep it from foaming at high rpm's and help fight corrosion. I know companies like AMSoil make FC-W grade oils that are synthetic but I tend to doubt they have the same amount of research going into outboards that Honda would.
@@captainsean4851 "but I tend to doubt they have the same amount of research going into outboards that Honda would."
My strategy is if that's all they do, they'll be the best at it. This holds true on everything. Honda doesn't make oil and Amsoil does, that's what they do, that's all they do. Honda's engineers determine what they want in an oil and have Castro Oil, Exxon or someone to supply it with their label. Honda's not in the oil business.
"they add chemicals to keep it from foaming at high rpm's and help fight corrosion". If you look at oil like it was ball bearings the petroleum base oil would have balls of all different sizes. If it's synthetic base, it's man made and all the balls would be made exactly the same size. This gives better load carrying capabilities.
The additives package includes friction modifiers, anti foaming agents, rust inhibitors, antioxidants, detergents and none of these have lubricating qualities.
Here's a link to an ME that also races BB Chevy's and explains a lot of the details and mega lists of filters and oils of many different type and brands.
540ratblog.wordpress.com/2013/06/20/motor-oil-wear-test-ranking/
My wife and I run Acura cars and I just dropped by to see what the V6 Honda outboards looked like. I have a Hydrostream Voyager XT 1991 with a 250 HPDI VMax.
@@robertjackson7590 I agree oil companies have more research in oil but I don't know how much oil companies care about the outboard market and have tested their products thoroughly. I know Honda cares about outboards and does teardowns after significant use. I know Honda doesn't make oil but I'm confident they chose a quality brand with the right additives based on oil samples taken after they're run. I know synthetic it a better oil, I run synthetic in all my trucks. I guess the catch for me is wondering if the gains I'd get from synthetic would be worth the potential loss I'd get from a bad additive package. In the end, I've got one engine with almost 9K hours in salt water on it that's 10 years old and starts and runs great that's only ever had Honda engine oil.
Hi mate loving your videos.... I’m looking at buying a boat with a 2002-2004 Honda 225hp outboard on it with 1250 hours I’m told the boat has been sitting for 3 years as the owner of the boat passed away. Can you recommend any essential maintenance I should do before attempting to take it for a test drive? Water pump impeller and drain fuel? Cheers from New Zealand
Honestly, I don't have a lot of experience with buying used motors like that. However, there are some things to look out for that I've heard from our dealership and friends who have purchased boats. Fuel in the US tends to get more like jelly (thicken) as it sits. Ask if they had a fuel stabilizer or ethanol free fuel (maybe all is ethanol free in NZ🤷♂️) I've heard it had to be cleared all the way from the water strainer all the way to the high pressure fuel pump (whole vapor separator assy actually) with someone who had it sitting for a long time. Maybe undo the low pressure filter 3 screws and see if the gas seems to be normal. Impeller (H2O pump) may need to be new but Honda impellers are pretty hardy. If you start it and it's "pissing" water well you're probably ok. (the pissing should strengthen with engine RPM also) If it's good maybe change within the first year to be safe. The last part is corrosion. Look at the state of the wiring harness and unchecked salt build-up around the cowling joints. Get all the salt cakes off with fresh water (carefully) and inspect what the salt has been sitting on. If it were me, I'd also undo the lower cowlings (as you see in my video for the high pressure fuel filter), start it on land, and inspect for leaks or any air leaks in the crankcase lines. Hope that helps
@@captainsean4851 thanks man very helpful cheers
Thanks for this informative video. I'm looking at buying a couple of used 2008 225 outboards. Is there any specific problems that you may suggest i look out for? One of the guys asked me to stay from them if they were submerged, because one of the covers has some minor scratches. Any advice
I have never purchased a used outboard so I don't have any experience there. I equate a submerged engine to a salvage title car kind of...you don't know how it will perform and last and it's most likely not good. I have noticed maintaining the engines makes a huge difference, hence, these videos. Oil changes (with filter every 200) need to be don every 100 hrs or year. Do they change spark plugs? (I've seen other outboard owners wait and they have trouble getting them out). Fuel filters? Winterize if needed? Start them at least every 2 months if not winterized? What are their engine checks like? Lower unit oil changed every 100 hours or year? Did they every get valves adjusted? (makes a bigger difference if they run wide open a lot and have hundreds/thousands of hours without service) O2 sensors do tend to go out in salty environments but, other than that, I have heard stories from my passengers about abysmal maintenance with bulletproof results. I love the Hondas and think you will too if they're decently maintained.
Thank you much for that. Nobody really knows if the outboards were submerged or not.
I'll be taking one of the Honda technicians to check for any signs of being submerged. For $2800 per outboard, it's a great price.
Thanks once again
Hey mate thanks for another great video guide. I've got a BF135 2006 with 400 hours on it. Is it worth doing the valve clearance adjustment yet or can I keep going another few hundred hours? Cheers
My motors typically run 1200 hours before they get a valve job but that is their yearly rate. I would think 400 you're still fine. I think the book calls to check them every 200 but that seems pretty ambitious to me. I listen for a rough idle with a sound like exhaust trying to get out before the valve opens or closes early (like putting your hand over a blower and stopping the air). I know other commercial Honda owners here that adjust their valves every couple thousand hours or some (Yamaha owners) that have over 6000hrs without touching the valves! If you run wide open throttle a lot and want them to last I'd try and adjust them at least by 1000 hrs if not maybe 800hrs.
@@captainsean4851 Any idea about not adjust valve property will shows error code?? My motor is a Yamaha 4 stroke running good for 1500 hours now and i scan it with the diagnostic software with nothing error report actually. Thanks.
No idea about the Yamahas except that a commercial guy up the road never does them since they involve shims. They are only 115's but he says they have over 6,000hrs on them with no significant problems. I'm also confused, did you adjust your valves and there's now a "check engine" code? Or, did you not adjust them?
@@jerrychf
@@captainsean4851 Nope, not done it yet because it seems runs good even my manual also said need to inspect the valve or adjust even 300 hours. Mine also a F115 with 1500 hours on it.
If it's anything like the commercial operator I know I think you'll be fine for quite some time. The only thing I can say from talking to other guys around here is that the more often you run high rpms for extended periods of time the more you need to maintain your engine. Run at 3500-4000 rpm no worries. If every time you go it's wide open...you may want to treat it as more of the high performance machine that it is.@@jerrychf
Hi, dera Captain, first i send a great apollogies for my english, i from Mexico. you have a video or pics how to give maintenace to IAB (intanke air bypass) thanks!!!!
I don't have a video on that but I have messed with them before. If you look up my video on "adjusting valve lash" it shows how to take off the intake manifold. Once that's off, you can access the phillips there and disconnect the air tubes by hand. I used a long need nose to fish out the valve. What are your symptoms? V-Tech issues?