I need to comment about crud build up and blocked air flow. I have many saws now, have become a vintage collector. They all come to me loaded full of crud, never and exception. I have a 1981 SXL that I bought new, have used it a plenty cutting firewood, had a habit of blowing it out thoroughly after cutting. Once in a while I would use a large soft parts wash brush and paint thinner to rinse out everywhere I could. It is a solid state ignition so no problem with contaminated points. The saw always looked clean and never gave any typical overheat signs. Just recently I tore that saw down for piston and cylinder cleaning, carb job etc. I was blown away with the amount of fine packed oily saw dust material in the gas tank- cylinder passageways. My conclusion is that the only way to really clean the saw right is at least a removal of the flywheel and possibly the ignition module frame. I use a small brass tube (1/8") extension on my air gun and that permits some pretty effective air application to the trouble spots down deep and in the nooks and crannys. I think this approach would suffice short of pulling the gas tank, but you have to stay at it a while with that air nozzle, just a hit and miss will not blow the crud out well enough. I love your videos, candy for the saw tinkerer!
I appreciate this video . I have a couple of these chainsaws . I have not used them in years . I used them with my dad . I going to try to get one of them running... i appreciate all of your information and testing
Great channel. Your certainly a professor at these saws. Is there some kind of solution that is used to clean the carbon build up on the outside of the cylinder, the muffler, etc? Also. What can be used to clean out black gunk in fuel tank? Thanks for your efforts. God Bless
Highlands out of my life I love your videos I have two 1962 vintage Home Light super xl automatic chainsaws the 12s and I was wondering if when you shoot videos on them doing the card work and stuff would you be kind enough to in the hands the pictures of the issues that they're having with the carburetor stuff and the piston and rings and stuff because I'm having issues with to a reminder not getting fuel thank you
Had a SXL925 back in the '90s that boiled the fuel. Used aircraft fuel, cured it & the 944 I picked up later. Both of those saws were sold to the local fire dept afterwards & later sold to a couple of it's members. Still, as far as I know, in this area.
Decades ago I had 2 big H-L, a 944 & a 925. Both would boil the fuel, something I'd never seen before. This saws were essentially the same. Only thing I ran across was that H-L decreased the cylinder size from 82cc to 80cc. Considering how little difference that should make, I ran AV gas, problem solved. I had been using the highest octane pump fuel I could find which, in those days, was a drop from 100 octane.
Had to pull the tank on one of mine, that was boiling. So now do it to most that I acquire. And always make sure to locktight the tank screws too. Someone gave me a beautiful SXL that was "locked up", that the tank screws had backed out against the flywheel.
that curled fuel hose looks similar to what you expect of the Husqvarna purposely twisted hoses....maybe a substitution? As part of the check off for why running hot a guy has to include what were the oil ratios and the carb jet adjustment settings....it all adds up with restricted air flow and leaking crankcase.
Hey Leon, Could you do a video carburetor rebuild on your XP 1100 that you picked up the other day. I have an XP1100 that I got from my Dad and the carburetor is all gummed up. I ordered a caburator rebuild kit for it. I need some help rebuilding it. Thank you.
Learn something on every video. Thanks for sharing. Have a great week Leon.
I need to comment about crud build up and blocked air flow. I have many saws now, have become a vintage collector. They all come to me loaded full of crud, never and exception. I have a 1981 SXL that I bought new, have used it a plenty cutting firewood, had a habit of blowing it out thoroughly after cutting. Once in a while I would use a large soft parts wash brush and paint thinner to rinse out everywhere I could. It is a solid state ignition so no problem with contaminated points. The saw always looked clean and never gave any typical overheat signs. Just recently I tore that saw down for piston and cylinder cleaning, carb job etc. I was blown away with the amount of fine packed oily saw dust material in the gas tank- cylinder passageways. My conclusion is that the only way to really clean the saw right is at least a removal of the flywheel and possibly the ignition module frame. I use a small brass tube (1/8") extension on my air gun and that permits some pretty effective air application to the trouble spots down deep and in the nooks and crannys. I think this approach would suffice short of pulling the gas tank, but you have to stay at it a while with that air nozzle, just a hit and miss will not blow the crud out well enough. I love your videos, candy for the saw tinkerer!
Great video. My xl1 does this also it's clean behind flywheel and engine. It does it if running full throttle for to long
I appreciate this video . I have a couple of these chainsaws . I have not used them in years . I used them with my dad . I going to try to get one of them running... i appreciate all of your information and testing
Great channel. Your certainly a professor at these saws. Is there some kind of solution that is used to clean the carbon build up on the outside of the cylinder, the muffler, etc? Also. What can be used to clean out black gunk in fuel tank? Thanks for your efforts. God Bless
Highlands out of my life I love your videos I have two 1962 vintage Home Light super xl automatic chainsaws the 12s and I was wondering if when you shoot videos on them doing the card work and stuff would you be kind enough to in the hands the pictures of the issues that they're having with the carburetor stuff and the piston and rings and stuff because I'm having issues with to a reminder not getting fuel thank you
Had a SXL925 back in the '90s that boiled the fuel. Used aircraft fuel, cured it & the 944 I picked up later. Both of those saws were sold to the local fire dept afterwards & later sold to a couple of it's members. Still, as far as I know, in this area.
One of the best video for that model😊
Decades ago I had 2 big H-L, a 944 & a 925. Both would boil the fuel, something I'd never seen before. This saws were essentially the same. Only thing I ran across was that H-L decreased the cylinder size from 82cc to 80cc. Considering how little difference that should make, I ran AV gas, problem solved. I had been using the highest octane pump fuel I could find which, in those days, was a drop from 100 octane.
Had to pull the tank on one of mine, that was boiling. So now do it to most that I acquire. And always make sure to locktight the tank screws too. Someone gave me a beautiful SXL that was "locked up", that the tank screws had backed out against the flywheel.
I have to periodically do that with my 10 series Macs, but I haven't tried pressure washing to get the crap out
Great channel , I really enjoy it.
Nice class sawrus
that curled fuel hose looks similar to what you expect of the Husqvarna purposely twisted hoses....maybe a substitution? As part of the check off for why running hot a guy has to include what were the oil ratios and the carb jet adjustment settings....it all adds up with restricted air flow and leaking crankcase.
Hey Leon,
Could you do a video carburetor rebuild on your XP 1100 that you picked up the other day. I have an XP1100 that I got from my Dad and the carburetor is all gummed up. I ordered a caburator rebuild kit for it. I need some help rebuilding it. Thank you.
In airbox I just use a universal with socket to get lower bolts
What state
Could you pull the flywheel and use a pressure washer? without damaging anything
Yes you can...a pressure washer might be an overkill...just a regular garden nozzle normally will do.
Hey buddy, long time. Hope all is well. Guess the move hasn't happened yet. Have you ever used a pipe cleaner between the fins? Works nicely. Be well