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g’day Charlie good advice, though the helter skelter is my ‘go to’ fastener, and I NEVER use toggles, I had basically nothing but bad experiences with them the first few times I tried them 40 years ago I clicked on both the links in your comment one simply open generic Amazon and they buy me a coffee got a 404 error message
Having just moved from an old house with solid walls to a new house with all plasterboard walls, this video is an excellent guide to what works and what doesn't; and then how to do it properly. Absolutely spot on.
Brilliant! Just retired, now taking on handyman work. This info supports my years of diy by giving me extra detail about how these work. Excellent video!
i searched about applying silicone and you sorted my probs! im now serching about fixings because i had problems with a screw in fixing and you have helped me again! you are a top bloke for taking your time to do such clear helpful videos. Cheers Charlie
All good now i also tried the fischer ones and thought they were crap as just span, but i know realise i was using wrong thickness of screw ha Everyday is a school day ;-) @@CharlieDIYte
Good Video, I've moved from a older solid walled house into a more modern house with Plasterboard walls, I knew about the various fixings but this gave great insight into what goes on behind the plasterboard and has been very useful to me. Thanks Andy
Whenever I fix anything into plasterboard, the absolute first thing I do after marking the positions of the first fixing hole is to drill a 5mm hole to determine the depth of the void! You can then use this, plus the plasterboard thickness and weight of the object being fixed to select your fixing.
Had to put up some ceiling fans and so glad I found your video. Was a little worried about attaching to the ceiling, but after watching the video I used the spring loaded attachments. There is zero movement in the fan as this is now very securely fitted to the ceiling. Thank you very much
I recently had a problem with screws which over a period of time worked themselves loose from a vertical blinds. The clearance was very tight for most of the plugs you used. So what I did is used a gripit but stuck it in with no need for nails. This has given me a very, very secure fixing.
Hi. I'm liking the videos. However!... I would like to point out though that your focus is on loads associated with hanging things vertically, therefore relying mostly on the strength of the anchor in the cavity. Fixings like the gripit are more designed for use on walls rather than ceilings, where the loads are shear (i.e. parallel to the wall). The gripit wings stop it pulling out but it is the large circumference of the fixing that makes it very strong when used in a wall as it better spreads the load and so can't be dragged down the plasterboard. As such, a smaller hole isn't necessarily stronger - it depends on the direction of the load. The anchor fixings are also good at preventing this but the mechanics are slightly different. My problem with the gripit is that it protrudes a couple of mm from the surface and also often show to the side of a narrow bracket.
Such a useful video, thanks for this. I've only recently found out about anchor bolts but the info about spring toggles is going to be really helpful for a more heavy duty weight bearing thing I have to mount.
Hi Charlie thank you for all your videos they are helping me a lot keep them coming . My step daughter has just brought a new build with hollow walls this video has helped a lot along with corefix thanks again Charlie
Thanks so much Mark. Really glad you're finding my vids useful. Check out my new update if you have a moment as it's much more comprehensive ruclips.net/video/Jdu9RId7m90/видео.html
Thanks for these great videos Charlie! I fitted a curtain pole onto a plasterboard wall on the weekend. Despite the fact that the void behind the plasterboard was filled with foam insulation, the hollow wall anchors proved very successful (once I'd bought a setting tool). The curtain rail (and heavy curtains) are solid as a rock. I now plan to buy some more (via your Amazon link) and do the rest of the house!
That's great news John, and I really appreciate you using my Amazon link! Yes, the wall anchor is pretty much alone on the market in terms of being able to force itself open in foam. Did I say that in the video? If not I should have! For lighter weight applications you might take a look at the Fischer Duopower 8x40. It's a universal plug, so it opens up behind plasterboard if it senses there's a void and otherwise functions like a more typical wall plug if you've put it into brick. It's a great plug, that I use more than anything else. I'm planning a plasterboard update video sometime before Christmas, so stay tuned for that if you can. 👍
Good vid. I've had great success with the Snap-Toggles. They seem to hold anything I want to hang on a wall and they are very strong. One of the best features of the Snap-Toggle is that you don't loose the brace bar like you do on the butterfly.
legalsolutions07 That's a very fair point. I have to say, it was an error not to have included Snap Toggles. I haven't tended to use them in my day job being more reliant on wall anchors, but you're right, they are a great option. I'll mention them in a future video and will let you know when I do as you're due a shout out for pointing that out 🙂
Yes I agree that they are unsuitable for a heavy download force. I use them for first fixing electric cables etc. to false ceilings. Just would like to say that they are ok in an appropriate use and wouldn't just say never use them. Keep up the good work though, these comparison tests are always useful.
appreciate everything you said on the video it really helps me to understand plasterboard or what screws you put to use and fasting thank you very much
You're very welcome Andrew! That's DIY in general for you - strip away the mystique and it's all quite straightforward :) Let me know if you need any specific advice on your project.
Great video and demonstration as well as editing skills on display here... probably the best video i've come across for plasterboard fixings for the UK I agree with all your opinions barring the scare off for the last fixings... I have got these from Screwfix (easyfix). I've just checked the box and it says you don't need to pre drill however by whacking them straight in by hand (very hard) or drill you are disturbing the plasterboard too much with damage. Pilot hole with I think a 3 or 4mm bit and screw the fitting in with a flathead. you will then see how solid it feels as opposed to wacking it straight in with no pilot. I have a 32" tv with 4 of these holding the bracket up, a 40" with 4 holding the bracket up and also 3 different curtain poles. Agreed the are not threatening the big boys for lb for lb weight limits however @ £11 for 250 for the fixings with screws it is beating them all on price. All the rest you will get 20, 50 or 100 of for that price, tbh the GripIt's are a ripoff they are way too expensive for the amount you get. Have a go with a small 3, 4 or 5mm pilot hole and screw the fixing in by hand with a flathead and let me know if you still feel the same. I think it's the way to go and have them used around my flat. Cheers for the video, very well put together.
Hi Ryan, thanks for the comments on the video - much appreciated! I'm glad you've made the helter skelter fixings work for you. You're right that drilling a pilot hole makes them a bit stronger in that it gives the thread more of a chance to bite without cracking the plasterboard, but in my day job, particularly where downward force is coming into play (and corded curtain tracks when combined with the weight of the curtains exert one hell of a lot of downward force when they're pulled), I just cannot rely on a thread cut into plaster. I used to secure them just the way you do, and they still failed. I much prefer to have something solid behind the board - be that an anchor, toggle or knotted plastic from the Fischer UX6. You're right about the costings of these fixings, but I take the view it's worth paying a bit more for a one off installation like this - to guarantee piece of mind. But thanks again - each to their own eh :)
Great vid, I used those last screw in fixings for hanging light picture frames and they work fine but agree that for anything hanging vertical or anything heavier they are no good
Charlie, it's certainly well worth readers reading through the specs. A kN = kiloNewton is just 1000 Newton, and one Newton is 1 kg m/s^2. So 1 kiloNewton is just 1000/9.8 = 102 kg in most situations on Earth. After that, the reader only needs to check whether he/she is dealing with shear loads, tension loads, or cantilever loads (GripIt website has a nice diagram).
With the experience I have had with many fixings, when using the aluminium (helter skelter type you call) they work better when you first 'drill a pilot hole'.
Bryn Smart Agreed, but I still wouldn't touch them (except perhaps for a vertical load such as a picture) as I've seen them fail on too many occasions.
Ha! Please don't ever but those dreadful fixings 😉 unless, say you're making some shelves in an alcove and there will be zero cantilever force on the fixing.
I like your approach to this but I am not sure that you are correct about some aspects of the fixings. In most circumstances most of the force applied to the fixing will be downwards. If the item is fairly flat (like a picture) this is certainly true. For an item that sticks out from the wall (coathooks or a shelf) there will be more rotational force ie the back of the fixing will turn upwards and the front of the fixing will turn down. Therefore the greatest force will be to pull the fixing straight down to the floor. Therefore if you have a fixing supporting 6kg and the fitting requires a 6mm hole the plasterboard will be supporting 1Kg per mm, however if it requires a 12mm the plasterboard is only supporting 1Kg per mm. This would suggest that the wider the hole the better the spread of force. You also want to reduce the rotational force. To do this there are various things including: ensuring that the fitting is a tight fit in the hole (don't waggle the drill bit), wide flanges on the back but also on the front, thicker plasterboard. The front flange is normally provided by the fitting: picture hook, shelf bracket, cupboard. the longer they extend downward the more they will reduce the rotational force and ensure they are tight against the board. Don't be inclined to hang a picture directly from the screw in the fitting without a picture hook. If you want a new experiment I suggest a series of equally spaced studs with plasterboard fitted the same way (number and position of screws the fitting positioned centrally. Then different experiments: first, to test vertical loading, with a hook on the fixing and a bucket hanging off the fitting then fill the bucket with stuff until the fitting fails. Then to test rotational loading try, say an angle bracket and repeat with the bucket hanging off the end the shorter the downward arm of the angle bracket is the more rotational force you will get. Hope this helps Also if the fitting is subject to regular movement eg a coathook then things will be more stressed. I look at what I am hanging, how the force will be applied, how to minimise rotational force, and how to spread the load. Where I have used them I have not yet had a problem with the helter skelter but it has to be the right application.
Snaptoggle Plasterboard Cavity Fixing are just as strong and because of the design the toggle stays in place so you can remove and replace the fixed item also they are easily available,screwfix ,Amazon take your pick. There are people on RUclips that have tested them and they seem to be a stronger fixing than the plain spring version.
I’m fixing a cordless dyson mount. I suppose you would recommend the 1st type you covered as the mount will receive lots of use as the dyson will be pulled in and out of the mount.
Yes, wall anchors would be belt and braces. Here's a video showing you how to fix them, it's important to have a turning stop of you don't use the setting tool ruclips.net/video/e3hjzPNe5wk/видео.html
Hi Charlie, quick question? What fixing would you recommend for going through a 10mm ceramic tile into plasterboard? I need to fit a shower screen with an 8mm glass door. Thanks, Lee.
Hello Charlie. Your brilliant video leads me to a question for you. I wonder what fixings you would recommend for thermal insulated plasterboard? We’ve just had this installed on two solid external walls in our bathroom. The plasterboard itself is only 7 mm thick and the insulation foam backing is 30 mm thick and the boards were installed using dot and dab method. I will soon have to fix a toilet roll holder, a mirror (probably about 70 x 50 cm size) and a curtain track (probably through a surface batten I guess) and I am really dreading this.
I’m just about to fit a 18mm thick bit of MDF as a brace under another MDF shelf - tempted to go with spring toggles as I think the fact you don’t need to tighten them all the up to get “the most” out of the fixings is ideal - I have these timco Stella fixtures but the 18mm gap between won’t allow me to get it tight
Hi Charlie, when you are using the UX6 you mentioned the screw is 4x50mm, is that 4 gauge? And does it matter what sort of screw it is? Thanks in advance. Cheers Ian
Hi Ian. No, I think 4 guage = 4mm screw HEAD diameter (I had to Google this 😉). So I'm pretty sure you want an 8 guage - this is a good article bit.ly/3mWaWiR You basically want a screw that is between 4 and 4.5mm diameter thread, and you want the thread to go all the way down the screw (so avoid a partially threaded shank of you can). Hope that helps but check out the Fischer Duopower 8x40 too. It's like the UX6 but better!
@@CharlieDIYte Hi Charlie, thanks so much for getting back to me. Yeah, the Duopower looks great but I’ve just bought a box of the UX6’s and they weren’t easy to find in Oz. Will buy a box of the Duo’s when I finish the UX6’s. Love your videos BTW. Cheers Ian
Heya Charlie, thanks for the video. Just wondering - is there a reason why the fischer duopower didn't make it into this list? (I'm really curious as I liked the look of it after you showed it at the end of the previous video, and now I'm wondering if I made a big mistake???). Thanks again
Simply because it wasn't around when I did this video, David. I also love the Duopower. Unfortunately they don't have a direct replacement for the UX6 but the Duopower 8x40 is the one I use most often. The 6x30 is just too short in my opinion.
@@CharlieDIYte Ah that's great to hear. Thanks for the quick reply - really appreciated! (went to send you a coffee but the link in the description no longer works - do you have an updated one?) I picked up a box of assorted duopowers with screws (6x30, 8x40, 10x50). Am planning to use the short ones to hang some pictures in my plasterboard walls - they're not particularly heavy or anything (about 1.5kg), but I really struggled to find another option that didn't involve nails, and I figured that at least 5mm holes will be easy enough to fill and paint over at a future date
Thanks Zed Man! D'you know what, I too am a big fan of the Uno (brown), and featured it in my first video goo.gl/8atJqX . I didn't mention it in this video because in plasterboard, if you're wanting it to umbrella open behind the plasterboard, you need quite a thin screw, and if you miss the middle of the fixing it sometimes doesn't open up properly behind the board - so I just thought there were less tricky fixings out there that I could recommend. Totally agree with you though - I've used it loads and still have quite a few in my tool kit! Thanks for the encouragement - I need as much as I can get as this video took the whole of Sunday to film and edit :(
However good or bad the screw-in fixings are, you set it up to fail. Just like you would drill a pilot hole to 'tap' a thread or for a screw on the edge of wood (to stop splitting), you need to drill a hole that's the same diameter as the shank of the screw otherwise you are just wedging/crumbling the plasterboard apart. This is standard practice on any delicate material. The screw should only displace/deform material required for the thread cutting (not cut material for the shank). You know this and if you ever screw a curtain bracket onto a timber rail, where the bracket is close to an end or edge of that wood, you will have drilled a pilot only 1mm smaller than the screw to ensure you did not wedge/split the wood. With all your experience, what makes you think that you can screw something so large into a weak crumbly material and get away without a pilot? You are cleverer than that!
If you where to take a claw hammer (as demonstrated at the end of the video) all the other fixings would fail as well, particularly the plastic ones. As always use the most appropriate type for the job at hand and dont over tighten.
If I already have the 'helter skelter' style fixings, what could I replace them with (would a gripit fixing work?) or is it a case of resiting the fixing altogether. I have a bathroom cabinet that is starting to become loose and I can't really site it anywhere else on the wall..
Great update video Charlie👏🏻 What fittings would you use on a hollow door for a coat rack? I've used the anchor bolts in the past, however, just wondering what you think! Thank you in advance👍🏻
For an M5x52 you're looking at 0.20kN by the looks of it www.fischer.co.uk/en-gb/products/cavity-fixings/board-fixing/metal-cavity-fixing-hm You might however be better with one of these ruclips.net/video/aeFyQS2NGVM/видео.html
Charlie - have been watching your videos and wonder if you have a view as to how best hang a heavy picture on plasterboard with celotex wall insulation backing. Would the Fisher UX6 plug work, not sure how it would react to going into the celotex. Any help would be appreciated, many thanks
Have you watched this video ruclips.net/video/qwVnoaY5eVc/видео.html ? If you can combine say a Fischer Duopower 8x40 with a heavy duty picture hook then this would be a good option. Don't worry about the Celotex as you're drilling into it anyway and the plug will work as normal. If however you need to have the screw poking out of the wall to hang the picture on you'd be better with a wall anchor. ruclips.net/video/e3hjzPNe5wk/видео.html Again, don't worry about the insulation because the anchor will force itself open in the insulation.
Great really informative video's! What kind of fixing would you recommend for 100mm insulation plasterboard? I've got a fairly lightweight clock I'd like to hang but it needs to be pretty secure as it's quite precious to me. I can't risk going through into the brickwork as I think there may be pipes behind,
Thanks Colin. I did a segment on my new update video ruclips.net/video/Jdu9RId7m90/видео.html on this at 25:02 It depends on what fixing point you have on the clock, but a hollow wall anchor M5x52 or a T-Bolt would do a good job if a bolt will work with the clock. The T-Bolt probably best if you're worried about the space behind the plasterboard. The T-Bolt also comes in a mirror fixing kit that has hooks for picture wire, which might be useful depending on how the clock attaches to the wall.
Thanks for the video really helpful! I’m still a bit nervous which to use for a wooden shelf and bowl sink to hang with two metal brackets in the en suite. The weight will most likely be about 17kgs. I was recommended the GripIt fixings but seen mixed reviews on these. I’ve bought the m5 x 52mm wall anchors which you talk about here. If I use 3 for each bracket do you think that will the trick?
Thanks for the helpful video. I’m a little confused as to what is considered light weight. I’d like to mount some surround speakers that weigh 1KG. I have both the helter skelter and a plasplug plasterboard regular duty. Are these suitable or do I need something more heavy duty?
Hi Charlie Great channel - as I've gushed before! I wonder if I may pick your brains? At home, I need to install curtain track to a 3m curved bay window. To make it more complicated, my wife insists on a second curtain to act as a modern privacy veil, as it's first floor main bedroom. There is no wall or header above the pvc d glazed windows. The only option is the ceiling. I had a similar problem downstairs - without the addition of double curtains. I managed to solve downstairs using spring toggles. The void between ground floor and first floor was more adequate. - although I do not like the fact the curtain fitting is never large enough to cover the oversized hole required to pass the toggle through the ceiling. My problem is that there is celotex type insulation directly above the bedroom bay ceiling as it's only some 300mm to the roof tiling. So I cannot get a spring toggle to open, as there is no adequate room for it to spring open. What would you suggest to do the job? I've wondered about using the helter skelter fixings, however previously using them on a wall to fix folding drying rails, some failed after loading. Cheers and thanks again for your excellent content
Hi, this is great advice but how do you go about the same tasks in insulated plasterboard? For some built in cupboards I'm planning to use really long frame fixings but this seems wildly excessive for lighter items eg curtain hold back. All these fixings rely on reaching the other side of the plasterboard but with the insulation this is approx 65mm deep.
Great videos and really helpful, thanks! I’m hanging wooden blinds in a small window and, after using the large self-driving plugs that you don’t recommend, I now have four large holes in the ceiling of the window recess! I think I’m hitting the lintel and there doesn’t appear to be any void and so I’m considering mounting the brackets on the left and right vertical walls instead. My question is: should I drill into the brick in order to obtain a strong fixing or will it be strong enough just going through the plaster? (Blind width is 85.3 cm, drop is 114 cm). Thanks in advance for any advice and assistance!
Charlie had another video showing how to fix into a steel lintel by drilling a narrow pilot hole and then using a self tapping screw to screw into the lintel itself.
And yes, if you're mounting the brackets on the walls of the window recess, drill though the plasterboard into the block work. If the plasterboard is dot and dab to the block then you can use two wall plugs into a long hole with a long screw the length of the two plugs then an extra 10mm.
Still not feeling confident on hanging a 25kg mirror on a 15mm thick drywall. Toggle bolts or snap bolts? And would you use them to hold the mirror fitting directly or to secure hooks?
Hi Charlie, great videos on the channel! just in need of a bit of advice regarding plasterboard fixings. I am planning on installing wooden Venetian blinds with a top fixing inside the window recess. conscious of the weight and the regular pulling of the cord. Which Fixings would you advise are best for this fixing. There is a large void between the plasterboard and lintel so presumably the plasterboard will be taking all the weight. Thanks
As a self confessed DIY luddite, this is a fantastic video. I'm forever having problems fixing tings to walls etc. IN this case I need to fix a 2kg light fitting to my plasterboard ceiling. For my case which fixing would you recommend? I'm being cautious as the light fitting has a large glass shade. I already have some of the fischer fixings (UX6), would they be enough ? Thanks !
Hi Charlie, a great video which I wished I had seen before using a helter skelter ! An added complication is that my PB is 9.5mm. Will all the fixings you have demonstrated still work with 9.5mm ? Are any better to use ? Many Thanks
I recently bought the ( helter skelter) fixings, even after having a chat with the man in the shop. He advised me to buy them. Later that day I got chatting with a very good friend of mine who is a kitchen fitter, informing him of my intended use. A TV bracket, that will be 50/50 brick and plaster board. He calls them pig tails, and said by no means use them they are s##t. And brought me round some of the anchors he uses all the time with the tool. Rather disappointed with the guy in the shop to be fair. Needless to say I'll not be buying in there again. And your video re affirms the reason not to use them. Thanks.
Sadly Andrew a lot of shop workers don't know what they're talking about. I'm just glad you never used them because they would have been wholly inappropriate for that.
@@CharlieDIYte, all change on the location of the TV now. Its going into solid wall. So Rawlanchors this weekend, then it makes my DIY skills look better. That's if my drill can cope with the bricks of our new house. Thanks for all the information, really helpful content.
Hey guys, What if I dont have a setting tool for the hollow wall anchors? I installed a M6 x37mm anchor but i just screwed it in....no setting tool used?! What ya think....should I reassess?
You need to watch this ruclips.net/video/e3hjzPNe5wk/видео.html It's probably ok if you screwed it in with the bracket or whatever you were attaching to the wall between the screw and the fixing - and then kept tightening until the anchor was fully open, but if you were just screwing the screw alone into the fixing, chances are it won't have opened properly because you need a turning stop between the screw and the fixing.
@@CharlieDIYte Thanks a mill mate. Yeah reckon Im good. Good point about drilling as close to the nominal dimension as possible so the teeth will bite and it wont turn. I used a masonry bit because I thought the wood bit was too sharp and might hit a wire and so was over the 10mm diameter. Turned out I only had 40mm total depth so my 37mm M6 anchors worked great. Thanks again :)
Hi there - sorry for not commenting earlier. The toggle spring and wall anchors are the strongest plasterboard fixings out there, but you've got to remember, at the end of the day, plasterboard is a brittle material. I can't comment on the horizontal floating TV unit as I don't know what the loadings will be on the fixings/ how heavy the unit will be, but my advice to you would be where you have something seriously heavy, you always want to fix into something solid behind the plasterboard, if at all possible, and where you can, with a wooden batten bracing the back of the plasterboard so that the fixings don't pull the plasterboard back inwards when you tighten them. I fitter I work with has a technique for fixing very heavy kitchen units to plasterboard walls. He actually cuts out a section of plasterboard, inlays a wooden batten into the hole, fixes the wooden batten to the subwall behind, and then fixes the kitchen units to the batten. That way you get a really secure fixing. Clearly, if you have a stud wall only (ie with no brickwork behind) you can't screw into something solid, so in this case, ideally you'd have a wooden stud behind the plasterboard wall to screw into. That way, the heavy load of the TV unit is braced across a much wider area than it is when you're just relying on the toggle or anchor.
Thanks for a great informative video. I have quite a few of the wall ancors but I have never used the, I also had a setting tool which I have managed to lose. Do you think as a one off I could get away without the need of the setting tool?
Yes but watch this video. It's important you have a turning stop when you tighten the screw otherwise the anchor will just swivel in the hole ruclips.net/video/e3hjzPNe5wk/видео.html
Hi, I was wondering if its possible to use the Anchor fixings on a tile wall? I notice they have teeth to provide a biting point so would these just crack the tile? Thanks 👍
I certainly do! ruclips.net/video/fx90VadXSXA/видео.html also featured as a sponsorship near the start of this video ruclips.net/video/VlRNNlARX_M/видео.html It's a great product and even won over the normally sceptical fitter who works for me.
Hi Charlie, I need to hang 27kg Monstad Ikea mirror. Initially my friend hung it horizontally with the shelter skelter screws and it held for 9 months. The same friend who hung this heavy duty mirror was sitting underneath it and the mirror fell off the wall landing on his head. Out of PD8 and UX-6 which one of them would you recommend as this mirror has been laying around for 2 years now and I need it back up (horizontally) on my (plasterboard) wall??🤔 Or can you recommend any other fixing apart from what you are demonstrating in your video. Please help☺
I told you helter skelters are rubbish :) Can you tell me what the fixings are on the back of the mirror that you attach to the wall? You might take a quick look at this video ruclips.net/video/qwVnoaY5eVc/видео.html where I show you how to combine a picture hook with a UX6/ Duopower for a really strong fixing. However if, as I suspect there's some sort of bracket that slots down onto a screw, you will probably need to use an anchor fixing - because a UX6/PD8/Duopower isn't any good unless it's screwed tight against a bracket or washer etc to enable it to open properly behind the plasterboard. As you see in the video I gave you the link for above, you can't just have the screw sticking out of the wall, because the fixing behind the plasterboard in this case hasn't done it's stuff. Very happy if you want to take a picture of the back of the mirror, and send it to me at charliediyte@gmail.com
Thank you so much for your quick easy to understand videos! Stupid question: is plaster board with the silver backing the same as American drywall? Thanks!
You're very welcome - thanks for taking the time to comment. Yes, the silver backing is just a slightly different version of drywall, the idea being that the silver foil backing helps to reduce heat loss/ moisture transfer through the drywall.
Hi thanks for this video i found it really helpful. I'm moving into a new build soon and am having nightmares about fitting my curtain poles but I'm definitely ordering some ux6's. Just one question can you unscrew and rescrew a ux6? thanks again great vid.
Hi Nicky. Thanks for taking the time to Comment. It's a really good question and here's your answer :) ruclips.net/video/7IVzvubW7fk/видео.html Good luck with the move, and remember, my day job is fitting curtains and blinds, so if you have any questions, let me know!
Charlie DIYte Thanks for answering my question that's good to know. As with fitting curtain poles in a new build the only question I have is.........any good advise?????
Ooof! Now there's a question Nicky! It's a bit tricky to comment specifically without knowing how heavy the curtains are, what hardware you're choosing, but here are a few starters: First off, start with the small window treatments - cut your teeth on these, and as your confidence rises, and you find out what works and what doesn't, you can tackle the larger stuff. Poles/tracks - buy decent quality poles with good brackets. Good quality poles tend to have decent brackets that spread the load on the wall much better than the cheaper ones. Generally, I don't use the screws and wall plugs that come with them - as these tend to be cheap rubbish that's not fit for purpose. This isn't always the case but it is 9 times out of 10! DON'T use the fixings with the cork screw design. If your curtains are pretty light, then you'll probably be fine with the Fischer UX6 - but remember, the wood screw you use with them needs to be no more than 4.5mm in diameter by, say, 50mm long. If the curtains are heavier, then you might want to buy wall anchors, just to be sure - although remember to buy a setting tool for these. Always start with a narrow diameter drill - eg 3 or 5mm. Use that small drill to see what's behind the plasterboard - you may hit something solid behind the 12mm board itself, in which case you can still use the UX6, as it's a universal fixing, or perhaps more of a general purpose fixing like this goo.gl/krbVjt Note: if you do hit something solid, but there's a small gap behind the plasterboard before you get to the solid bit, you can take a larger screw, and tap the plug through the plasterboard into the solid stuff, then use a longer screw so you can reach your newly recessed wall plug. You can get a really strong fixing this way, but you have to be careful not to screw your bracket up too hard, as you can crack the plasterboard as it's pulled back by the force of the screw. If you are going to use the metal wall anchors featured in my video, put a piece of wire or a thin screwdriver into the hole you drilled (see above) and make sure the void behind the plasterboard is deep enough for the anchor to be inserted - I show you how to do this in the video. And on a more general level: Buy a decent quality spirit level - preferably 60cms - 100cms long, so that you put everything up straight! Look down before you drill. If there's a light switch or plug socket immediately below, then move your fixing point outside the line of the socket, as chances are, the electrics go immediately up the wall from the socket!
Charlie DIYte Thanks for that advise it's a great help. I'll be getting a pack of each of those fixings ready for the job! I've fitted them before but the pressure of a brand new house is pretty high!
Why would anyone want to use the OLD style toggle bolts when there are the 'snap toggles' that do the same thing and the bolt can be removed many times which is not true with the old toggles
Juraj Kecso Thanks Juraj - much appreciated! I'd go toggles or anchor fixings. Without knowing how heavy the floating shelf is, there will be quite a lot of load on the fixings by virtue of it being floating, and from the books, so these fixings will give you the strongest possible support.
Thanks for the great video yet again. I have a question, I am fixing a curtain pole to plasterboard but need to fix a 24mm baton of wood to the wall first so I can clear the blinds that are fitted. Would Fischer plugs be ok for this?
Simeon Lee It depends how heavy the curtains are - as, with the curtain bracket attached to the baton there could be quite a lot of weight leveraging on the baton. If the curtains are quite light then you should be fine. You might try the new 8x40 Fischer Duopower which is arguably stronger than the UX6 - as featured at the end of my video here ruclips.net/video/qwVnoaY5eVc/видео.html. If you're hanging heavy curtains then I would fix the baton up with a toggle or anchor fixing to be sure.
Charlie DIYte thanks for that. The curtains and poles are quite lightweight so I think I will give it a go, I’ll just fix the baton at a couple more points 👍
Simeon Lee Yes, and make sure the screws are long enough to go through the baton and through the back of the fixing - as you need them to do this for the fixing to knot up properly.
Hi Ross. There's no minimum as such other than ensuring they're wide enough apart to open without interfering with each other although you have to consider the weakening of the plasterboard if you drill two holes close to each other. If it's because the bracket you're attaching has two screws close together you might consider this fixing because you can screw a couple of screws into the fixing very close together. It's unique in that sense and I was seriously impressed with it ruclips.net/video/aeFyQS2NGVM/видео.html
It’s to fix brackets for a double curtain rail. One pair lightweight, one pair heavyweight. I have one anchor on each at the moment and they are sagging. So I’m lost as to what to do really.
@@rossthomson7998 They're problematic double curtain rails because of the force exerted by the front pole. Try that fixing I sent you the link to. It's your best bet unless you can reach the wall behind, in which case I'd use a Corefix every time.
🛠Charlie DIYte Amazon Tool Store amzn.to/3fcLnY4 - all my tried, tested and much loved DIY tools. You can help support me by Buying me a Coffee ☕ bit.ly/3xuQ3zb or by becoming a Member to unlock a host of benefits - thanks so much 🙏.
g’day Charlie
good advice, though the helter skelter is my ‘go to’ fastener, and I NEVER use toggles, I had basically nothing but bad experiences with them the first few times I tried them 40 years ago
I clicked on both the links in your comment one simply open generic Amazon and they buy me a coffee got a 404 error message
Having just moved from an old house with solid walls to a new house with all plasterboard walls, this video is an excellent guide to what works and what doesn't; and then how to do it properly. Absolutely spot on.
Hi Quentin. So glad you found it useful - and thanks for taking the time to let me know!
Brilliant! Just retired, now taking on handyman work. This info supports my years of diy by giving me extra detail about how these work. Excellent video!
This is the one you want to watch Peter ruclips.net/video/Jdu9RId7m90/видео.html 👍
i searched about applying silicone and you sorted my probs! im now serching about fixings because i had problems with a screw in fixing and you have helped me again! you are a top bloke for taking your time to do such clear helpful videos.
Cheers Charlie
Ah, Gio that's fantastic news - thanks for letting me know! Those screw in fixings are awful. I hope you've sorted the problem now.
All good now i also tried the fischer ones and thought they were crap as just span, but i know realise i was using wrong thickness of screw ha
Everyday is a school day ;-)
@@CharlieDIYte
Good Video, I've moved from a older solid walled house into a more modern house with Plasterboard walls, I knew about the various fixings but this gave great insight into what goes on behind the plasterboard and has been very useful to me. Thanks Andy
Whenever I fix anything into plasterboard, the absolute first thing I do after marking the positions of the first fixing hole is to drill a 5mm hole to determine the depth of the void! You can then use this, plus the plasterboard thickness and weight of the object being fixed to select your fixing.
Thanks Tom. We tend to do this a lot in the day job. 👍
Had to put up some ceiling fans and so glad I found your video. Was a little worried about attaching to the ceiling, but after watching the video I used the spring loaded attachments. There is zero movement in the fan as this is now very securely fitted to the ceiling. Thank you very much
Glad to hear it Jon. Great work. Here's the update video if you have any more to do ruclips.net/video/Jdu9RId7m90/видео.html
Charlie, you are AWESOME.
Thanks Tony 🙏
Really useful video, demystifying hanging heavy stuff on plasterboard walls. Thanks Charlie!
Found this video at the right time as have a TV to mount. Definitely going for the spring toggle fixings
Good option, or there's the Geefix ruclips.net/video/aeFyQS2NGVM/видео.html
I recently had a problem with screws which over a period of time worked themselves loose from a vertical blinds. The clearance was very tight for most of the plugs you used. So what I did is used a gripit but stuck it in with no need for nails. This has given me a very, very secure fixing.
Hi. I'm liking the videos. However!... I would like to point out though that your focus is on loads associated with hanging things vertically, therefore relying mostly on the strength of the anchor in the cavity. Fixings like the gripit are more designed for use on walls rather than ceilings, where the loads are shear (i.e. parallel to the wall). The gripit wings stop it pulling out but it is the large circumference of the fixing that makes it very strong when used in a wall as it better spreads the load and so can't be dragged down the plasterboard. As such, a smaller hole isn't necessarily stronger - it depends on the direction of the load. The anchor fixings are also good at preventing this but the mechanics are slightly different. My problem with the gripit is that it protrudes a couple of mm from the surface and also often show to the side of a narrow bracket.
My red grip it's came out the wall with a simple floating cat shelf. Had 3 reds in the bracket to
Thanks a bundle. Had a worry about fixing to plasterboard and you showed me the right fixing to use for the job I had to do. Thanks once again
night Stalker Glad you found it useful and thanks for taking the time to let me know - really appreciate that!
Such a useful video, thanks for this. I've only recently found out about anchor bolts but the info about spring toggles is going to be really helpful for a more heavy duty weight bearing thing I have to mount.
Hi Charlie thank you for all your videos they are helping me a lot keep them coming . My step daughter has just brought a new build with hollow walls this video has helped a lot along with corefix thanks again Charlie
Thanks so much Mark. Really glad you're finding my vids useful. Check out my new update if you have a moment as it's much more comprehensive ruclips.net/video/Jdu9RId7m90/видео.html
Perfect video to find cos I needed to hang a 15kg bathroom cabinet. Found the spring toggles on clearance at B and Q for a pound. Job done!
Well done, mate. You picked a really good fixing there.
Thanks for these great videos Charlie! I fitted a curtain pole onto a plasterboard wall on the weekend. Despite the fact that the void behind the plasterboard was filled with foam insulation, the hollow wall anchors proved very successful (once I'd bought a setting tool). The curtain rail (and heavy curtains) are solid as a rock. I now plan to buy some more (via your Amazon link) and do the rest of the house!
That's great news John, and I really appreciate you using my Amazon link! Yes, the wall anchor is pretty much alone on the market in terms of being able to force itself open in foam. Did I say that in the video? If not I should have! For lighter weight applications you might take a look at the Fischer Duopower 8x40. It's a universal plug, so it opens up behind plasterboard if it senses there's a void and otherwise functions like a more typical wall plug if you've put it into brick. It's a great plug, that I use more than anything else. I'm planning a plasterboard update video sometime before Christmas, so stay tuned for that if you can. 👍
Good vid. I've had great success with the Snap-Toggles. They seem to hold anything I want to hang on a wall and they are very strong. One of the best features of the Snap-Toggle is that you don't loose the brace bar like you do on the butterfly.
legalsolutions07 That's a very fair point. I have to say, it was an error not to have included Snap Toggles. I haven't tended to use them in my day job being more reliant on wall anchors, but you're right, they are a great option. I'll mention them in a future video and will let you know when I do as you're due a shout out for pointing that out 🙂
Pretty sure you've just saved me making a right hash of refitting a handrail to the wall that had fallen off. Thanks!
Good to hear it Ben. Good luck with the job!
Clear instructions are appreciated.
Great video, it was really helpful when troubleshooting plasterboard fixings.
Thanks. Glad you found it useful 👍
Yes I agree that they are unsuitable for a heavy download force. I use them for first fixing electric cables etc. to false ceilings. Just would like to say that they are ok in an appropriate use and wouldn't just say never use them. Keep up the good work though, these comparison tests are always useful.
appreciate everything you said on the video it really helps me to understand plasterboard or what screws you put to use and fasting thank you very much
You're very welcome Andrew! That's DIY in general for you - strip away the mystique and it's all quite straightforward :) Let me know if you need any specific advice on your project.
Thanks for this. Very helpful.
You're welcome. I'll be doing an update video in November so look out for that 👍
Great video and demonstration as well as editing skills on display here... probably the best video i've come across for plasterboard fixings for the UK
I agree with all your opinions barring the scare off for the last fixings...
I have got these from Screwfix (easyfix). I've just checked the box and it says you don't need to pre drill however by whacking them straight in by hand (very hard) or drill you are disturbing the plasterboard too much with damage. Pilot hole with I think a 3 or 4mm bit and screw the fitting in with a flathead. you will then see how solid it feels as opposed to wacking it straight in with no pilot. I have a 32" tv with 4 of these holding the bracket up, a 40" with 4 holding the bracket up and also 3 different curtain poles.
Agreed the are not threatening the big boys for lb for lb weight limits however @ £11 for 250 for the fixings with screws it is beating them all on price. All the rest you will get 20, 50 or 100 of for that price, tbh the GripIt's are a ripoff they are way too expensive for the amount you get.
Have a go with a small 3, 4 or 5mm pilot hole and screw the fixing in by hand with a flathead and let me know if you still feel the same. I think it's the way to go and have them used around my flat.
Cheers for the video, very well put together.
Hi Ryan, thanks for the comments on the video - much appreciated!
I'm glad you've made the helter skelter fixings work for you. You're right that drilling a pilot hole makes them a bit stronger in that it gives the thread more of a chance to bite without cracking the plasterboard, but in my day job, particularly where downward force is coming into play (and corded curtain tracks when combined with the weight of the curtains exert one hell of a lot of downward force when they're pulled), I just cannot rely on a thread cut into plaster. I used to secure them just the way you do, and they still failed. I much prefer to have something solid behind the board - be that an anchor, toggle or knotted plastic from the Fischer UX6.
You're right about the costings of these fixings, but I take the view it's worth paying a bit more for a one off installation like this - to guarantee piece of mind.
But thanks again - each to their own eh :)
Great vid, I used those last screw in fixings for hanging light picture frames and they work fine but agree that for anything hanging vertical or anything heavier they are no good
Mrajere Thanks! Yes you're absolutely right - the metal screw in fixings are fine on walls, when the load is downward only.
Love how you call them fixings, very nice video. Well done.
Thank you for taking the time to make this video.
Very helpful info. ty :-)
Excellent thank you for taking the time to make this!
You're welcome, Tim. Glad you found it useful. I'm planning a refresher video for some time in 2021 so keep your eyes out for that 👍
Massively clear and helpful. Thank you so much.
Linda MacKay Thanks for taking the time to comment Linda - glad you found it useful.
Very clear and useful overview. Many thanks for this.
Charlie, it's certainly well worth readers reading through the specs. A kN = kiloNewton is just 1000 Newton, and one Newton is 1 kg m/s^2. So 1 kiloNewton is just 1000/9.8 = 102 kg in most situations on Earth. After that, the reader only needs to check whether he/she is dealing with shear loads, tension loads, or cantilever loads (GripIt website has a nice diagram).
Phil Hario Thanks Phil. Well explained!
With the experience I have had with many fixings, when using the aluminium (helter skelter type you call) they work better when you first 'drill a pilot hole'.
Bryn Smart Agreed, but I still wouldn't touch them (except perhaps for a vertical load such as a picture) as I've seen them fail on too many occasions.
Your information is good and useful
Thanks but check out my more recent update video ruclips.net/video/Jdu9RId7m90/видео.html
Thanks for explenation !
Glad I watched this.... Was about to go buy some helter-skelter ones 🤦🤦
Ha! Please don't ever but those dreadful fixings 😉 unless, say you're making some shelves in an alcove and there will be zero cantilever force on the fixing.
@@CharlieDIYte nope.... Never using them. Never ever ever ever ever 😂😂
I like your approach to this but I am not sure that you are correct about some aspects of the fixings. In most circumstances most of the force applied to the fixing will be downwards. If the item is fairly flat (like a picture) this is certainly true. For an item that sticks out from the wall (coathooks or a shelf) there will be more rotational force ie the back of the fixing will turn upwards and the front of the fixing will turn down. Therefore the greatest force will be to pull the fixing straight down to the floor. Therefore if you have a fixing supporting 6kg and the fitting requires a 6mm hole the plasterboard will be supporting 1Kg per mm, however if it requires a 12mm the plasterboard is only supporting 1Kg per mm. This would suggest that the wider the hole the better the spread of force. You also want to reduce the rotational force. To do this there are various things including: ensuring that the fitting is a tight fit in the hole (don't waggle the drill bit), wide flanges on the back but also on the front, thicker plasterboard. The front flange is normally provided by the fitting: picture hook, shelf bracket, cupboard. the longer they extend downward the more they will reduce the rotational force and ensure they are tight against the board. Don't be inclined to hang a picture directly from the screw in the fitting without a picture hook. If you want a new experiment I suggest a series of equally spaced studs with plasterboard fitted the same way (number and position of screws the fitting positioned centrally. Then different experiments: first, to test vertical loading, with a hook on the fixing and a bucket hanging off the fitting then fill the bucket with stuff until the fitting fails. Then to test rotational loading try, say an angle bracket and repeat with the bucket hanging off the end the shorter the downward arm of the angle bracket is the more rotational force you will get. Hope this helps Also if the fitting is subject to regular movement eg a coathook then things will be more stressed. I look at what I am hanging, how the force will be applied, how to minimise rotational force, and how to spread the load. Where I have used them I have not yet had a problem with the helter skelter but it has to be the right application.
Great info made a note of fishers and will try
Thanks for that. Yep, Fischer's a great brand - I've been using the UX6 and to a lesser extent the PD8s for years. Let me know how you get on!
Very helpful video. Thanks!
Well explained good video mate
hi charlie can you make a video for hanging tv on plasterboard please.
Hi Charlie, I'm trying to fix a curtain pole to plasterboard that has timber directly behind it. What screw would you recommend I use?
Snaptoggle Plasterboard Cavity Fixing are just as strong and because of the design the toggle stays in place so you can remove and replace the fixed item also they are easily available,screwfix ,Amazon take your pick. There are people on RUclips that have tested them and they seem to be a stronger fixing than the plain spring version.
I’m fixing a cordless dyson mount. I suppose you would recommend the 1st type you covered as the mount will receive lots of use as the dyson will be pulled in and out of the mount.
Yes, wall anchors would be belt and braces. Here's a video showing you how to fix them, it's important to have a turning stop of you don't use the setting tool ruclips.net/video/e3hjzPNe5wk/видео.html
Great video, Charlie. thanks
+dennis Thanks Dennis!
Hi Charlie, quick question? What fixing would you recommend for going through a 10mm ceramic tile into plasterboard? I need to fit a shower screen with an 8mm glass door. Thanks, Lee.
Thank you so much!
Hello Charlie. Your brilliant video leads me to a question for you. I wonder what fixings you would recommend for thermal insulated plasterboard? We’ve just had this installed on two solid external walls in our bathroom. The plasterboard itself is only 7 mm thick and the insulation foam backing is 30 mm thick and the boards were installed using dot and dab method. I will soon have to fix a toilet roll holder, a mirror (probably about 70 x 50 cm size) and a curtain track (probably through a surface batten I guess) and I am really dreading this.
Can you please demonstrate a comparable pull out test on each type of the fixing?
I'll be doing an update video later this year and will see if I can get hold of something to do this, as I agree, it would make it more scientific.
Great video - any tips on removing the hollow wall anchors? 🤞
I’m just about to fit a 18mm thick bit of MDF as a brace under another MDF shelf - tempted to go with spring toggles as I think the fact you don’t need to tighten them all the up to get “the most” out of the fixings is ideal - I have these timco Stella fixtures but the 18mm gap between won’t allow me to get it tight
Check out my updated vid ruclips.net/video/Jdu9RId7m90/видео.html They are good those Stella's
Charlie great video, thanks but why didn't you include the Duo Power fixing in this updated video? have you gone off the idea of Duo Power?
Thank you!
Hi Charlie, when you are using the UX6 you mentioned the screw is 4x50mm, is that 4 gauge? And does it matter what sort of screw it is? Thanks in advance. Cheers Ian
Hi Ian. No, I think 4 guage = 4mm screw HEAD diameter (I had to Google this 😉). So I'm pretty sure you want an 8 guage - this is a good article bit.ly/3mWaWiR You basically want a screw that is between 4 and 4.5mm diameter thread, and you want the thread to go all the way down the screw (so avoid a partially threaded shank of you can). Hope that helps but check out the Fischer Duopower 8x40 too. It's like the UX6 but better!
@@CharlieDIYte Hi Charlie, thanks so much for getting back to me. Yeah, the Duopower looks great but I’ve just bought a box of the UX6’s and they weren’t easy to find in Oz.
Will buy a box of the Duo’s when I finish the UX6’s. Love your videos BTW. Cheers Ian
Heya Charlie, thanks for the video. Just wondering - is there a reason why the fischer duopower didn't make it into this list? (I'm really curious as I liked the look of it after you showed it at the end of the previous video, and now I'm wondering if I made a big mistake???). Thanks again
Simply because it wasn't around when I did this video, David. I also love the Duopower. Unfortunately they don't have a direct replacement for the UX6 but the Duopower 8x40 is the one I use most often. The 6x30 is just too short in my opinion.
@@CharlieDIYte Ah that's great to hear. Thanks for the quick reply - really appreciated! (went to send you a coffee but the link in the description no longer works - do you have an updated one?)
I picked up a box of assorted duopowers with screws (6x30, 8x40, 10x50). Am planning to use the short ones to hang some pictures in my plasterboard walls - they're not particularly heavy or anything (about 1.5kg), but I really struggled to find another option that didn't involve nails, and I figured that at least 5mm holes will be easy enough to fill and paint over at a future date
Hi Charlie what’s the best general size for the anchor fixing?is the anchor fixing good enough for fitting a tv on the wall?
I just found out my plasterboard is 40mm thick should I use 60mm m6 butterfly fixings ?
Nice reviews Charlie. I find the rawlplug uno to be fantastic all round fixings. Works in most substrates. Keep up the great videos.
Thanks Zed Man! D'you know what, I too am a big fan of the Uno (brown), and featured it in my first video goo.gl/8atJqX . I didn't mention it in this video because in plasterboard, if you're wanting it to umbrella open behind the plasterboard, you need quite a thin screw, and if you miss the middle of the fixing it sometimes doesn't open up properly behind the board - so I just thought there were less tricky fixings out there that I could recommend.
Totally agree with you though - I've used it loads and still have quite a few in my tool kit!
Thanks for the encouragement - I need as much as I can get as this video took the whole of Sunday to film and edit :(
However good or bad the screw-in fixings are, you set it up to fail.
Just like you would drill a pilot hole to 'tap' a thread or for a screw on the edge of wood (to stop splitting), you need to drill a hole that's the same diameter as the shank of the screw otherwise you are just wedging/crumbling the plasterboard apart.
This is standard practice on any delicate material. The screw should only displace/deform material required for the thread cutting (not cut material for the shank).
You know this and if you ever screw a curtain bracket onto a timber rail, where the bracket is close to an end or edge of that wood, you will have drilled a pilot only 1mm smaller than the screw to ensure you did not wedge/split the wood.
With all your experience, what makes you think that you can screw something so large into a weak crumbly material and get away without a pilot? You are cleverer than that!
This was priceless!
If you where to take a claw hammer (as demonstrated at the end of the video) all the other fixings would fail as well, particularly the plastic ones. As always use the most appropriate type for the job at hand and dont over tighten.
If I already have the 'helter skelter' style fixings, what could I replace them with (would a gripit fixing work?) or is it a case of resiting the fixing altogether. I have a bathroom cabinet that is starting to become loose and I can't really site it anywhere else on the wall..
Great update video Charlie👏🏻 What fittings would you use on a hollow door for a coat rack? I've used the anchor bolts in the past, however, just wondering what you think! Thank you in advance👍🏻
hi, thanks for the videos. Quick question, how much weight can each hollow wall anchor fixing take. I am planning to wall mount a TV. Thanks.
For an M5x52 you're looking at 0.20kN by the looks of it www.fischer.co.uk/en-gb/products/cavity-fixings/board-fixing/metal-cavity-fixing-hm You might however be better with one of these ruclips.net/video/aeFyQS2NGVM/видео.html
Charlie - have been watching your videos and wonder if you have a view as to how best hang a heavy picture on plasterboard with celotex wall insulation backing. Would the Fisher UX6 plug work, not sure how it would react to going into the celotex. Any help would be appreciated, many thanks
Have you watched this video ruclips.net/video/qwVnoaY5eVc/видео.html ? If you can combine say a Fischer Duopower 8x40 with a heavy duty picture hook then this would be a good option. Don't worry about the Celotex as you're drilling into it anyway and the plug will work as normal. If however you need to have the screw poking out of the wall to hang the picture on you'd be better with a wall anchor. ruclips.net/video/e3hjzPNe5wk/видео.html Again, don't worry about the insulation because the anchor will force itself open in the insulation.
Great really informative video's! What kind of fixing would you recommend for 100mm insulation plasterboard? I've got a fairly lightweight clock I'd like to hang but it needs to be pretty secure as it's quite precious to me. I can't risk going through into the brickwork as I think there may be pipes behind,
Thanks Colin. I did a segment on my new update video ruclips.net/video/Jdu9RId7m90/видео.html on this at 25:02 It depends on what fixing point you have on the clock, but a hollow wall anchor M5x52 or a T-Bolt would do a good job if a bolt will work with the clock. The T-Bolt probably best if you're worried about the space behind the plasterboard. The T-Bolt also comes in a mirror fixing kit that has hooks for picture wire, which might be useful depending on how the clock attaches to the wall.
Hi,
Thanks for the video. In your opinion what would be the best fixing that would work on both hollow and solid walls
Thanks for the video really helpful! I’m still a bit nervous which to use for a wooden shelf and bowl sink to hang with two metal brackets in the en suite. The weight will most likely be about 17kgs. I was recommended the GripIt fixings but seen mixed reviews on these. I’ve bought the m5 x 52mm wall anchors which you talk about here. If I use 3 for each bracket do you think that will the trick?
Really good video
Thanks for the helpful video. I’m a little confused as to what is considered light weight. I’d like to mount some surround speakers that weigh 1KG. I have both the helter skelter and a plasplug plasterboard regular duty. Are these suitable or do I need something more heavy duty?
What fixing would you recommend for hanging a 500g router directly to the wall?
well - explained really....but could it work for concrete walls to hang cabinets???
김장비 No, for concrete walls you want to use wall plugs that are designed for concrete. The fixings in my video are specifically for plaster board.
Hi Charlie
Great channel - as I've gushed before!
I wonder if I may pick your brains?
At home, I need to install curtain track to a 3m curved bay window.
To make it more complicated, my wife insists on a second curtain to act as a modern privacy veil, as it's first floor main bedroom.
There is no wall or header above the pvc d glazed windows.
The only option is the ceiling.
I had a similar problem downstairs - without the addition of double curtains.
I managed to solve downstairs using spring toggles. The void between ground floor and first floor was more adequate.
- although I do not like the fact the curtain fitting is never large enough to cover the oversized hole required to pass the toggle through the ceiling.
My problem is that there is celotex type insulation directly above the bedroom bay ceiling as it's only some 300mm to the roof tiling.
So I cannot get a spring toggle to open, as there is no adequate room for it to spring open.
What would you suggest to do the job?
I've wondered about using the helter skelter fixings, however previously using them on a wall to fix folding drying rails, some failed after loading.
Cheers and thanks again for your excellent content
Hi, this is great advice but how do you go about the same tasks in insulated plasterboard? For some built in cupboards I'm planning to use really long frame fixings but this seems wildly excessive for lighter items eg curtain hold back. All these fixings rely on reaching the other side of the plasterboard but with the insulation this is approx 65mm deep.
Great videos and really helpful, thanks! I’m hanging wooden blinds in a small window and, after using the large self-driving plugs that you don’t recommend, I now have four large holes in the ceiling of the window recess! I think I’m hitting the lintel and there doesn’t appear to be any void and so I’m considering mounting the brackets on the left and right vertical walls instead. My question is: should I drill into the brick in order to obtain a strong fixing or will it be strong enough just going through the plaster? (Blind width is 85.3 cm, drop is 114 cm). Thanks in advance for any advice and assistance!
Charlie had another video showing how to fix into a steel lintel by drilling a narrow pilot hole and then using a self tapping screw to screw into the lintel itself.
And yes, if you're mounting the brackets on the walls of the window recess, drill though the plasterboard into the block work. If the plasterboard is dot and dab to the block then you can use two wall plugs into a long hole with a long screw the length of the two plugs then an extra 10mm.
Hi Charlie, do you find it best when drilling into plasterboard to use a masonry drill bit with the drill set on non-hammer drive?
Still not feeling confident on hanging a 25kg mirror on a 15mm thick drywall. Toggle bolts or snap bolts? And would you use them to hold the mirror fitting directly or to secure hooks?
You might try this - I was seriously impressed ruclips.net/video/aeFyQS2NGVM/видео.html The beauty of it is you can use a really thick screw.
Hi Charlie, great videos on the channel! just in need of a bit of advice regarding plasterboard fixings. I am planning on installing wooden Venetian blinds with a top fixing inside the window recess. conscious of the weight and the regular pulling of the cord. Which Fixings would you advise are best for this fixing. There is a large void between the plasterboard and lintel so presumably the plasterboard will be taking all the weight.
Thanks
As a self confessed DIY luddite, this is a fantastic video. I'm forever having problems fixing tings to walls etc. IN this case I need to fix a 2kg light fitting to my plasterboard ceiling. For my case which fixing would you recommend? I'm being cautious as the light fitting has a large glass shade. I already have some of the fischer fixings (UX6), would they be enough ? Thanks !
Hi Charlie, a great video which I wished I had seen before using a helter skelter ! An added complication is that my PB is 9.5mm. Will all the fixings you have demonstrated still work with 9.5mm ? Are any better to use ? Many Thanks
I recently bought the ( helter skelter) fixings, even after having a chat with the man in the shop. He advised me to buy them. Later that day I got chatting with a very good friend of mine who is a kitchen fitter, informing him of my intended use. A TV bracket, that will be 50/50 brick and plaster board. He calls them pig tails, and said by no means use them they are s##t. And brought me round some of the anchors he uses all the time with the tool. Rather disappointed with the guy in the shop to be fair. Needless to say I'll not be buying in there again. And your video re affirms the reason not to use them. Thanks.
Sadly Andrew a lot of shop workers don't know what they're talking about. I'm just glad you never used them because they would have been wholly inappropriate for that.
@@CharlieDIYte, all change on the location of the TV now. Its going into solid wall. So Rawlanchors this weekend, then it makes my DIY skills look better. That's if my drill can cope with the bricks of our new house. Thanks for all the information, really helpful content.
Hey guys,
What if I dont have a setting tool for the hollow wall anchors? I installed a M6 x37mm anchor but i just screwed it in....no setting tool used?! What ya think....should I reassess?
You need to watch this ruclips.net/video/e3hjzPNe5wk/видео.html It's probably ok if you screwed it in with the bracket or whatever you were attaching to the wall between the screw and the fixing - and then kept tightening until the anchor was fully open, but if you were just screwing the screw alone into the fixing, chances are it won't have opened properly because you need a turning stop between the screw and the fixing.
@@CharlieDIYte Thanks a mill mate. Yeah reckon Im good. Good point about drilling as close to the nominal dimension as possible so the teeth will bite and it wont turn. I used a masonry bit because I thought the wood bit was too sharp and might hit a wire and so was over the 10mm diameter.
Turned out I only had 40mm total depth so my 37mm M6 anchors worked great.
Thanks again :)
Hello. thanks for this video. Would the toggle spring or wall anchor be suitable for mounting a large, horizontal floating TV unit on plaster board.
Hi there - sorry for not commenting earlier. The toggle spring and wall anchors are the strongest plasterboard fixings out there, but you've got to remember, at the end of the day, plasterboard is a brittle material. I can't comment on the horizontal floating TV unit as I don't know what the loadings will be on the fixings/ how heavy the unit will be, but my advice to you would be where you have something seriously heavy, you always want to fix into something solid behind the plasterboard, if at all possible, and where you can, with a wooden batten bracing the back of the plasterboard so that the fixings don't pull the plasterboard back inwards when you tighten them. I fitter I work with has a technique for fixing very heavy kitchen units to plasterboard walls. He actually cuts out a section of plasterboard, inlays a wooden batten into the hole, fixes the wooden batten to the subwall behind, and then fixes the kitchen units to the batten. That way you get a really secure fixing.
Clearly, if you have a stud wall only (ie with no brickwork behind) you can't screw into something solid, so in this case, ideally you'd have a wooden stud behind the plasterboard wall to screw into. That way, the heavy load of the TV unit is braced across a much wider area than it is when you're just relying on the toggle or anchor.
Enjoy all your helpful vids Charlie☺️. How do you tell or know if there are power lines behind the wall? Cos I have no idea! Thank you!
How can I hang something on a wimpy no fines wall? It seems impossible to drill it.
For the concrete wall what kind of fixing we use?
Thanks for a great informative video. I have quite a few of the wall ancors but I have never used the, I also had a setting tool which I have managed to lose. Do you think as a one off I could get away without the need of the setting tool?
Yes but watch this video. It's important you have a turning stop when you tighten the screw otherwise the anchor will just swivel in the hole ruclips.net/video/e3hjzPNe5wk/видео.html
Hi, I was wondering if its possible to use the Anchor fixings on a tile wall? I notice they have teeth to provide a biting point so would these just crack the tile? Thanks 👍
You could probably just bend the teeth flat with a pair of pliers.
Do you recommend the Corefix kits? With the metal insert tubes?
I certainly do! ruclips.net/video/fx90VadXSXA/видео.html also featured as a sponsorship near the start of this video ruclips.net/video/VlRNNlARX_M/видео.html It's a great product and even won over the normally sceptical fitter who works for me.
mate, With the hollow anchor fixing, what bolt do I use?
Hi Charlie, I need to hang 27kg Monstad Ikea mirror.
Initially my friend hung it horizontally with the shelter skelter screws and it held for 9 months. The same friend who hung this heavy duty mirror was sitting underneath it and the mirror fell off the wall landing on his head. Out of PD8 and UX-6 which one of them would you recommend as this mirror has been laying around for 2 years now and I need it back up (horizontally) on my (plasterboard) wall??🤔
Or can you recommend any other fixing apart from what you are demonstrating in your video. Please help☺
I told you helter skelters are rubbish :) Can you tell me what the fixings are on the back of the mirror that you attach to the wall? You might take a quick look at this video ruclips.net/video/qwVnoaY5eVc/видео.html where I show you how to combine a picture hook with a UX6/ Duopower for a really strong fixing. However if, as I suspect there's some sort of bracket that slots down onto a screw, you will probably need to use an anchor fixing - because a UX6/PD8/Duopower isn't any good unless it's screwed tight against a bracket or washer etc to enable it to open properly behind the plasterboard. As you see in the video I gave you the link for above, you can't just have the screw sticking out of the wall, because the fixing behind the plasterboard in this case hasn't done it's stuff. Very happy if you want to take a picture of the back of the mirror, and send it to me at charliediyte@gmail.com
Thank you so much for your quick easy to understand videos! Stupid question: is plaster board with the silver backing the same as American drywall? Thanks!
You're very welcome - thanks for taking the time to comment. Yes, the silver backing is just a slightly different version of drywall, the idea being that the silver foil backing helps to reduce heat loss/ moisture transfer through the drywall.
Hi thanks for this video i found it really helpful. I'm moving into a new build soon and am having nightmares about fitting my curtain poles but I'm definitely ordering some ux6's. Just one question can you unscrew and rescrew a ux6? thanks again great vid.
Hi Nicky. Thanks for taking the time to Comment. It's a really good question and here's your answer :) ruclips.net/video/7IVzvubW7fk/видео.html Good luck with the move, and remember, my day job is fitting curtains and blinds, so if you have any questions, let me know!
Charlie DIYte Thanks for answering my question that's good to know. As with fitting curtain poles in a new build the only question I have is.........any good advise?????
Ooof! Now there's a question Nicky! It's a bit tricky to comment specifically without knowing how heavy the curtains are, what hardware you're choosing, but here are a few starters:
First off, start with the small window treatments - cut your teeth on these, and as your confidence rises, and you find out what works and what doesn't, you can tackle the larger stuff.
Poles/tracks - buy decent quality poles with good brackets. Good quality poles tend to have decent brackets that spread the load on the wall much better than the cheaper ones.
Generally, I don't use the screws and wall plugs that come with them - as these tend to be cheap rubbish that's not fit for purpose. This isn't always the case but it is 9 times out of 10!
DON'T use the fixings with the cork screw design.
If your curtains are pretty light, then you'll probably be fine with the Fischer UX6 - but remember, the wood screw you use with them needs to be no more than 4.5mm in diameter by, say, 50mm long.
If the curtains are heavier, then you might want to buy wall anchors, just to be sure - although remember to buy a setting tool for these.
Always start with a narrow diameter drill - eg 3 or 5mm. Use that small drill to see what's behind the plasterboard - you may hit something solid behind the 12mm board itself, in which case you can still use the UX6, as it's a universal fixing, or perhaps more of a general purpose fixing like this goo.gl/krbVjt
Note: if you do hit something solid, but there's a small gap behind the plasterboard before you get to the solid bit, you can take a larger screw, and tap the plug through the plasterboard into the solid stuff, then use a longer screw so you can reach your newly recessed wall plug. You can get a really strong fixing this way, but you have to be careful not to screw your bracket up too hard, as you can crack the plasterboard as it's pulled back by the force of the screw.
If you are going to use the metal wall anchors featured in my video, put a piece of wire or a thin screwdriver into the hole you drilled (see above) and make sure the void behind the plasterboard is deep enough for the anchor to be inserted - I show you how to do this in the video.
And on a more general level:
Buy a decent quality spirit level - preferably 60cms - 100cms long, so that you put everything up straight!
Look down before you drill. If there's a light switch or plug socket immediately below, then move your fixing point outside the line of the socket, as chances are, the electrics go immediately up the wall from the socket!
Charlie DIYte Thanks for that advise it's a great help. I'll be getting a pack of each of those fixings ready for the job! I've fitted them before but the pressure of a brand new house is pretty high!
what would you use for a tilled dry wall?
Great video, thanks. Can I use the anchor fixings to install a projector to plasterboard. Total weight is 7kg.
Yes, they'd work well for that.
Why would anyone want to use the OLD style toggle bolts when there are the 'snap toggles' that do the same thing and the bolt can be removed many times which is not true with the old toggles
Price. The newer snap toggles are almost double the cost.
amazing video. Just wondering what would you recommend for a regular floating shelf for books without studs?
Juraj Kecso Thanks Juraj - much appreciated! I'd go toggles or anchor fixings. Without knowing how heavy the floating shelf is, there will be quite a lot of load on the fixings by virtue of it being floating, and from the books, so these fixings will give you the strongest possible support.
Thanks for the great video yet again. I have a question, I am fixing a curtain pole to plasterboard but need to fix a 24mm baton of wood to the wall first so I can clear the blinds that are fitted. Would Fischer plugs be ok for this?
Simeon Lee It depends how heavy the curtains are - as, with the curtain bracket attached to the baton there could be quite a lot of weight leveraging on the baton. If the curtains are quite light then you should be fine. You might try the new 8x40 Fischer Duopower which is arguably stronger than the UX6 - as featured at the end of my video here ruclips.net/video/qwVnoaY5eVc/видео.html. If you're hanging heavy curtains then I would fix the baton up with a toggle or anchor fixing to be sure.
Charlie DIYte thanks for that. The curtains and poles are quite lightweight so I think I will give it a go, I’ll just fix the baton at a couple more points 👍
Simeon Lee Yes, and make sure the screws are long enough to go through the baton and through the back of the fixing - as you need them to do this for the fixing to knot up properly.
Great video.
Was that a fart at 13:51?
I hope not 🤣
Charlie DIYte 🤣
Hi there
I was just wondering, with metal wall anchors, what is the minimum spacing you should really place between them?
Hi Ross. There's no minimum as such other than ensuring they're wide enough apart to open without interfering with each other although you have to consider the weakening of the plasterboard if you drill two holes close to each other. If it's because the bracket you're attaching has two screws close together you might consider this fixing because you can screw a couple of screws into the fixing very close together. It's unique in that sense and I was seriously impressed with it ruclips.net/video/aeFyQS2NGVM/видео.html
It’s to fix brackets for a double curtain rail. One pair lightweight, one pair heavyweight. I have one anchor on each at the moment and they are sagging. So I’m lost as to what to do really.
@@rossthomson7998 They're problematic double curtain rails because of the force exerted by the front pole. Try that fixing I sent you the link to. It's your best bet unless you can reach the wall behind, in which case I'd use a Corefix every time.