Flip the pipe around, leave the washer...weld it where the washer is far away from the glowplug hole...make a "tube" like a kiln burner. Thanks for taking the time to show the insides of the burning chamber! Keep em coming!!!!
Thanks for sacrificing one, that ring of mesh is where I wanna put some catalytic fibers from a catalytic hand warmer. You can also get 'platinum embers' which is the same thing but bigger, used for fireplaces to give the illusion of glowing embers.
Great stuff! I wonder about replacing the burn chamber, with one that has the replaceable mesh. Thanks for showing the individual pieces of the burn chamber especially after burning waste oil!
Hmm …… i’ve had my 8kw heater apart about 10 times this week trying to figure out why it won’t light 5 out of 6 times . Once she’s light it’s all fine and runs pretty good. New plug,screen,pump, different fuel and good cleaning. The last time I was focused on the burn chamber and even ran oven cleaner through it but still the same results. I’m going to order an Amazon replacement burner and hopefully that’s the end of that. Thanks for sacrificing a burner too see what’s inside. 👍
Nice videos David! I can suggest a modification to the burn chamber that will make it serviceable. Cut the sleeve of the burn chamber off (which you did before), but cut it flush with the mounting flange. The wool should stay with the sleeve and be part of the sleeve. Then weld another thin flange onto the outside of the sleeve to hold it in place on the original flange. Screw it to the original flange with a couple of small screws. You could service the burn chamber very quickly after these modifications. You could heat the parts with propane until all the goo is gone, then use a wet blaster cabinet (vapor hone style) to dislodge all the ash. The burn chamber would be completely restored each time. Another (simpler) idea would be to disconnect the oil and attach a propane source to the fuel injector steel like on the burn chamber. Start the heater, and gradually add propane to the line. Run it until it is hot enough to glow, then power it down and check it to see if the bitumen and ash has been burned away. If propane won't get it hot enough, mapp gas might.
I'm wondering if you ever compared using premium grade diesel versus ordinary diesel, with the view of having a much cleaner burn and not having to complete messy maintainence tasks. Would it be worthwhile or simply a waste of money. Any opinion on the matter? Love all the experimenting you have done, you have imparted a lot of very useful info.
i had the same experience after running waste oil. completly clogged and wouldnt start anymore (same rock hard stuff inside, i actually think its the burned additives in motoroil). since the burnchamber was done and i couldnt clean it i put it into an woodburning stove. after glowing red hot i was able to basically knock all the stuff out and the burnchamber looked like new and works fine. migth be intersting to some
Washer acts like Venturi in a carburettor and increases air speed prob best left in place. Leave washer in and increase fan speed without mesh it will just run the same as a Space Heater. Which I have seen run on waste oil for quite a long time but I deffo would not recommend !! Keep the good vids coming DM
Run it as hot as possible Don't worry about the pollution we need to get that thing the point where it's almost at thermal shutdown Will self clean itself I've gone a year before I had problems with mine having igniting issues and when I cleaned it out it was just practically Ash run it hot and dirty
@@haydenc2742 you actually need to run it dirty and hot not slow and clean it won't blow black smoke but you want to burn out the clinkers at least that's what we call them I like mine with diesel then I crank the thing on high modify the flow rate to low basically you lean out the oil because it has more thermal Mass it's a richer fuel and run it hot there's a fine balance though because you can hit the thermal shut off limit
Hi David. I’m running two heaters and been following you a while. Can you confirm the hole past the glow comes out at the 12pm o’clock position. I’ve rerun your video and can’t make it out. The glow plug is at the top and without chopping the top off I can’t be sure. My 5-8kw looks like oil would come out into the burn chamber at 5pm hence leaving a pile of crude at 6pm like I’ve seen yours. I’m working on a remedy of a real afterburner. Will upload and send you a link or maybe the the whole burner. Both of mine are ported out and run bigger steel exhaust bends with no ridges. Both run on the lowest setting for 16 hours a day using diesel with zero coking. Ones on 1 1/2 winters so far using big bore smooth pipe and a single silencer.
I wonder if there's a way to identify what this residual stuff is(oil additive of some kind?) and potentially find some way to selectively remove it from the oil prior to burning? If it's soluble in a specific solvent or maybe if it can be precipitated out by adding/mixing in something to pull it out of solution, you could process a whole batch of the oil at once which might not be too much of a pain. Would definitely need to know what it's made of though to come up with a plan to process it out.
" typically consist of base oils enhanced with various additives, particularly antiwear additives, detergents, dispersants, and, for multi-grade oils, viscosity index improvers" Some of them like metal salts can probably be removed by shaking the oil with water or an acid/base extraction, but the majority probably require distillation or steam distillation.
Best guess- get two kits for engine oil analysis. Put in one of them a concoction of measured measured amount of CRUSHED /Pulverized scrapings from burn chamber mixed with a measured amount of clean, off the shelf engine oil. Second kit put straight clean engine oil of a same measured amount of clean oil in first kit. (this is your base) . Send them off for analysis
Brilliant videos fella, really informative thank you, I've recently bought 2 of these heaters and have one heating the living room of my house, it works a treat. Anyway I have a few ideas that I am going to try out but would like your thoughts. the first is about trying to salvage the heat from the exhaust, and no its not banging it through a radiator or a sand battery 😁 I was thinking of coiling an 8 foot exhaust pipe and fitting it into a sealed steel box with the intake for the air heater at the top and the main intake for fresh air to the heater at the bottom which would be connected to the fresh air from outside, that way the air would be preheated before it was blown onto the heater itself, I reckon it would heat up quite a bit on the low settings so, would there be a problem in extending the wires connecting the circuit board and heat sensor on the unit so they were not in direct contact with the pre heated hot air from the exhaust ? sorry for the long post but I'm always on the lookout for cheap heating, Cheers and thanks again for the videos
10 months ago, But do you think with even burning waste oil you can spray carb cleaner in their to clean out the chamber at least a little? I like the thought of being able to burn my waste oil to cut down cost of heating but I know it can also dirty things up.
Between me and many other RUclips channels it has been tested extensively. There is no way to easily clean the burn chamber once the waste oil contaminants have choked up the interneral wicking mesh. Your could run on waste oil until the heater stops and then replace the burn chamber. Dilution of the waste oil just increases the time before failure.
All parts of that burnchamer look like they made of some sort of steel, I wonder if it is possible to burn free the whole assemly like a 2-stroke muffler? Like in a little furnace maybe up to 500°C?
As long as there aren't any rubber o-rings or things that can melt..I would be the whole thing could be put inside one of those heat treatment ovens or metal melting kilns and run up to 750-1000°C (stay below the melting temps of the metals, but get em glowing red for a bit) I know I can melt brass and aluminum, but the steel in brass cases don't melt (primers and the occasional steel shell casing)...but it does burn all the crud to a crispy ash I think they run cast iron engine blocks in a oil burner oven thing to remove oil at like 650-750°C
hi have u had any issues with heater stopping and displaying 7.3.2 or so can’t remember,now just dashes on controller.there is 13v from power supply getting to heater but dead
Anyone knows where to get knitted FeCrAl mesh? Can only find the round one for the webasto. I want to cut replacement screen for inside the burner. Found a cheap way to make the burner serviceable and need that last thing to make the video about it
Just a thought, would an ultrasonic cleaner with the correct chemicals work I know not many people have one but it would seem to be an ideal way to clean them with minimal effort ?
I have Googled and there isn't anything that dissolves carbon without eating the metal as well. I have seen putting it in a muffle furnace and heating it until red hot might get rid of the carbon.
Thank you! Definitely saved me some grief. Those burners do look non serviceable. My best guess is... Might have to dump the ECM to go WMO. Airspeed control may be an issue. Along with fuel flow to get a sustainable burn started.
When you have to chop metal apart to clean out the guck left behind by used engine oil, yeah, don't bother with engine oil, it's more work than it is worth when used in this sort of application (and I am specifically saying **this** application considering someone previously used the excuse of pouring it into ships engines and commercial furnaces as a reason to use it in response to one of my comments, which are not the same thing!!)...
I mix methanol with diesel as it helps break down carbon deposits that build up in a diesel engine and also helps reduce emissions. You can add upto 14% before running into other problems as methanol can be crosive to certain engine components. Not many parts to wory about in a heater mostly metal. Adding methanol lowers emissions of carbon monoxide and hydrocarbons and nitrogen oxides. But will increase Formaldehyde emissions when the engine is cold. However Methanol is also biodegradable and like diesel can be grown from planted crop. There is already methanol in diesel but never more than 10% as one of the activities along with hydrochloride acid as a dirtergent.. These are things they don't want you to know about fuel. You can make it work for you.
The burn chamber mods have also been done already. It doesn't work. I dont mean to be negative, as I want someone to come up with a way to burn waste oil effectively, but rehashing things that have already been done won't get us there.
You know looking at the construction of that i would be sooo tempted to feed a tiny tube of HHO through the intake tube to see how it changes.. totaly useless in real world use but pure curiosity.. il have to wait till i get my workshop built in spring to test it lol
I've been thinking a similar thing, just a bit scary if it ever fills with oxygen and hydrogen, and then suddenly lights, youve got a 8omb I was thinking about just feeding it the oxygen side of the HHO to help it try burn more completely.
@@ratgreen Yer thats a valid concern but as long as the system is pushing air through the system its safe as it cant build up.. to stay safe just dont activate the hho until the things running lol
IMHO I would (if I had the $, skills, and a workshop) 1. find a way to either speed up combustion air fan (over power it a volt or two?) for more oxygen or add greater air intake volume in some other secondary way.. enlarge air intake? add a second fan? Can you speed up combustion fan with afterburner setup?. Is fan speed of combust air part of what goes up along with more fuel when one turns the heater to higher temp setting??. Can afterburner software turn up fan but not fuel flow?? 2. cut some tabs into the top of the slotted burn tube there in the bottom of burn chamber and bend the tabs up . Add more slotted tube to the one it came with above that to make it Half?? longer? and or stainless steel screen or something to extend the slotted tube so there is more hot metal further up into the burn tube to help further combust the alternative fuel being used?? Can't imagine where taking the cup w/hole would help at all. Likely made things worse- IMHO keep that. Someone had a good point to re-run this last experement with diesel to see if removing that makes it work worse on diesel. Suspect it will.. Thanks for all you do David.
I guarantee it runs worse without the cup with hole. It's there to further force the mix of diesel vapour and air during combustion. But it was also where all the ash got stuck. I was hoping removing it would help blow the ash out the exhaust. Fan and fuel speed are independently adjustable. I have a feeling if I push the air faster I'll end up with more heat going down the exhaust than being transferred into the heater.
Does anyone think a waste motor oil mix that has been filtered with a centerfuge at a 50/50 mix would have any different outcomes? Or if you switched back and forth between a wmo mix and straight diesel while running on high maybe 12hrs wmo mix 1 hour diesel?
yeah it needs the partition plate...I said put it at the end (flip the pipe and re-weld) this way the fire heats the entire tube and is restricted a bit I saw his other video and it seemed to just slather the unburned goo/sludge out of the burn chamber an into the body causing that to be gooped up as well
I remind hot and dirty I don't tune it for pollution efficiency The more pollutes the hotter I can get it I can go a year and a half with running used motor oil I run it as hot as possible without it thermal shutting down it's not clean but I get the most BTUs out of it and it doesn't clog up my unit
It’s not getting hot enough to burn off the carbon … I don’t know if pre heating the oil will help cuz cold burn Not u making me think …I have seen an aluminum bodied heater so the plastic don’t melt extend electrons off the burn chamber if the burn chamber is hotter so carbon will be carried away Also why are u at 3.5 at 4K …max the fan speed set pump the that get the heater hot
Ok the heater you cut the end off to see in the burn …. Can you cut the washer out and see how it starts and burns in that heater …….also can you fit a burner( stock) in that but cut down like 1” from washer then block off the end about 1/2” from the end that was cut down makein it smaller Also punch slots in the washer so the grabs the flame and blow carbon the the end Can the exhaust outlet be made bigger
Flip the pipe around, leave the washer...weld it where the washer is far away from the glowplug hole...make a "tube" like a kiln burner.
Thanks for taking the time to show the insides of the burning chamber!
Keep em coming!!!!
Thanks for sacrificing one, that ring of mesh is where I wanna put some catalytic fibers from a catalytic hand warmer. You can also get 'platinum embers' which is the same thing but bigger, used for fireplaces to give the illusion of glowing embers.
Great stuff! I wonder about replacing the burn chamber, with one that has the replaceable mesh. Thanks for showing the individual pieces of the burn chamber especially after burning waste oil!
Hmm …… i’ve had my 8kw heater apart about 10 times this week trying to figure out why it won’t light 5 out of 6 times . Once she’s light it’s all fine and runs pretty good. New plug,screen,pump, different fuel and good cleaning. The last time I was focused on the burn chamber and even ran oven cleaner through it but still the same results. I’m going to order an Amazon replacement burner and hopefully that’s the end of that. Thanks for sacrificing a burner too see what’s inside. 👍
Nice videos David! I can suggest a modification to the burn chamber that will make it serviceable. Cut the sleeve of the burn chamber off (which you did before), but cut it flush with the mounting flange. The wool should stay with the sleeve and be part of the sleeve. Then weld another thin flange onto the outside of the sleeve to hold it in place on the original flange. Screw it to the original flange with a couple of small screws. You could service the burn chamber very quickly after these modifications. You could heat the parts with propane until all the goo is gone, then use a wet blaster cabinet (vapor hone style) to dislodge all the ash. The burn chamber would be completely restored each time. Another (simpler) idea would be to disconnect the oil and attach a propane source to the fuel injector steel like on the burn chamber. Start the heater, and gradually add propane to the line. Run it until it is hot enough to glow, then power it down and check it to see if the bitumen and ash has been burned away. If propane won't get it hot enough, mapp gas might.
Great idea!
I'm wondering if you ever compared using premium grade diesel versus ordinary diesel, with the view of having a much cleaner burn and not having to complete messy maintainence tasks. Would it be worthwhile or simply a waste of money. Any opinion on the matter? Love all the experimenting you have done, you have imparted a lot of very useful info.
Any thoughts on whether, premium (with added cleaners) diesel would clean it out? Or maybe fuel additive? Might be an interesting experiment.
i had the same experience after running waste oil. completly clogged and wouldnt start anymore (same rock hard stuff inside, i actually think its the burned additives in motoroil). since the burnchamber was done and i couldnt clean it i put it into an woodburning stove. after glowing red hot i was able to basically knock all the stuff out and the burnchamber looked like new and works fine. migth be intersting to some
THX from Crete - Herzele
Its a wonder these things light at all. I remember some documentary about the first jet engines being like trying to light a match in a hurricane. 😎👍🌲
Thanks for this one ! Was wondering long time what was inside the chamber...
Greetz from Minotauria
Herzele
Washer acts like Venturi in a carburettor and increases air speed prob best left in place. Leave washer in and increase fan speed without mesh it will just run the same as a Space Heater. Which I have seen run on waste oil for quite a long time but I deffo would not recommend !! Keep the good vids coming DM
Run it as hot as possible Don't worry about the pollution we need to get that thing the point where it's almost at thermal shutdown Will self clean itself I've gone a year before I had problems with mine having igniting issues and when I cleaned it out it was just practically Ash run it hot and dirty
That is what I was thinking...run it wide open...hotter the better
Trying to throttle it and setting at too low a speed might cause it to "run dirty"
@@haydenc2742 you actually need to run it dirty and hot not slow and clean it won't blow black smoke but you want to burn out the clinkers at least that's what we call them I like mine with diesel then I crank the thing on high modify the flow rate to low basically you lean out the oil because it has more thermal Mass it's a richer fuel and run it hot there's a fine balance though because you can hit the thermal shut off limit
Hi David. I’m running two heaters and been following you a while. Can you confirm the hole past the glow comes out at the 12pm o’clock position. I’ve rerun your video and can’t make it out. The glow plug is at the top and without chopping the top off I can’t be sure. My 5-8kw looks like oil would come out into the burn chamber at 5pm hence leaving a pile of crude at 6pm like I’ve seen yours. I’m working on a remedy of a real afterburner. Will upload and send you a link or maybe the the whole burner. Both of mine are ported out and run bigger steel exhaust bends with no ridges. Both run on the lowest setting for 16 hours a day using diesel with zero coking. Ones on 1 1/2 winters so far using big bore smooth pipe and a single silencer.
I wonder if there's a way to identify what this residual stuff is(oil additive of some kind?) and potentially find some way to selectively remove it from the oil prior to burning? If it's soluble in a specific solvent or maybe if it can be precipitated out by adding/mixing in something to pull it out of solution, you could process a whole batch of the oil at once which might not be too much of a pain. Would definitely need to know what it's made of though to come up with a plan to process it out.
" typically consist of base oils enhanced with various additives, particularly antiwear additives, detergents, dispersants, and, for multi-grade oils, viscosity index improvers" Some of them like metal salts can probably be removed by shaking the oil with water or an acid/base extraction, but the majority probably require distillation or steam distillation.
Best guess- get two kits for engine oil analysis. Put in one of them a concoction of measured measured amount of CRUSHED /Pulverized scrapings from burn chamber mixed with a measured amount of clean, off the shelf engine oil. Second kit put straight clean engine oil of a same measured amount of clean oil in first kit. (this is your base) . Send them off for analysis
Have you tried washing it out with hot water & Dawn dish soap?
"This is why you need to replace your burn chamber when refurbishing your diesel heater." 😆
To clean the parts can you use a ultrasonic bath if your repairing a lot of these units
Brilliant videos fella, really informative thank you, I've recently bought 2 of these heaters and have one heating the living room of my house, it works a treat. Anyway I have a few ideas that I am going to try out but would like your thoughts. the first is about trying to salvage the heat from the exhaust, and no its not banging it through a radiator or a sand battery 😁 I was thinking of coiling an 8 foot exhaust pipe and fitting it into a sealed steel box with the intake for the air heater at the top and the main intake for fresh air to the heater at the bottom which would be connected to the fresh air from outside, that way the air would be preheated before it was blown onto the heater itself, I reckon it would heat up quite a bit on the low settings so, would there be a problem in extending the wires connecting the circuit board and heat sensor on the unit so they were not in direct contact with the pre heated hot air from the exhaust ? sorry for the long post but I'm always on the lookout for cheap heating, Cheers and thanks again for the videos
That inner wick must be why i get the 08. Got some bad diesel. Anyway to try to clean it up?
Getting the whole thing red/orange hot is what I've heard works best.
10 months ago, But do you think with even burning waste oil you can spray carb cleaner in their to clean out the chamber at least a little? I like the thought of being able to burn my waste oil to cut down cost of heating but I know it can also dirty things up.
Between me and many other RUclips channels it has been tested extensively. There is no way to easily clean the burn chamber once the waste oil contaminants have choked up the interneral wicking mesh. Your could run on waste oil until the heater stops and then replace the burn chamber. Dilution of the waste oil just increases the time before failure.
Thanks so much for the reply, I tried doing some research couldn't find anything solid. I'll just run it on the diesel for now haha. @@DavidMcLuckie
Hi David
Any idea what’s causing a smell of diesel fuel, I can taste the fuel when the burner is on.
Many thanks
How about putting a clogged burn chamber in a self cleaning oven to create white ash?
All parts of that burnchamer look like they made of some sort of steel, I wonder if it is possible to burn free the whole assemly like a 2-stroke muffler? Like in a little furnace maybe up to 500°C?
As long as there aren't any rubber o-rings or things that can melt..I would be the whole thing could be put inside one of those heat treatment ovens or metal melting kilns and run up to 750-1000°C (stay below the melting temps of the metals, but get em glowing red for a bit)
I know I can melt brass and aluminum, but the steel in brass cases don't melt (primers and the occasional steel shell casing)...but it does burn all the crud to a crispy ash
I think they run cast iron engine blocks in a oil burner oven thing to remove oil at like 650-750°C
Reminds me of an egr valve, would oven cleaner help?
What heater, fuel and how long has it been used for? Merry Christmas
I wonder of it works when younremove the mesh , i already bought 4 burn chambers , cause of the waste oil .
hi have u had any issues with heater stopping and displaying 7.3.2 or so can’t remember,now just dashes on controller.there is 13v from power supply getting to heater but dead
Anyone knows where to get knitted FeCrAl mesh? Can only find the round one for the webasto. I want to cut replacement screen for inside the burner. Found a cheap way to make the burner serviceable and need that last thing to make the video about it
Can you try convert the Diesel heater to lpg / propan Gas. Maybe attaching the Gas Hose to the air intake?
Just a thought, would an ultrasonic cleaner with the correct chemicals work I know not many people have one but it would seem to be an ideal way to clean them with minimal effort ?
I have Googled and there isn't anything that dissolves carbon without eating the metal as well. I have seen putting it in a muffle furnace and heating it until red hot might get rid of the carbon.
Is used cooking oil ok too?
So does it run after you took mesh and the washer out?
Technically yes. But it ran terribly even on diesel without the mesh and the washer.
Thank you!
Definitely saved me some grief.
Those burners do look non serviceable.
My best guess is... Might have to dump the ECM to go WMO.
Airspeed control may be an issue. Along with fuel flow to get a sustainable burn started.
I wonder are there any Diesel heaters that use a fan shaft driven fuel pump and spray nozzle like they are used in home/industrial oil burners?
I thought he said "peckish, what time is it"? Dave should be OBE.
When you have to chop metal apart to clean out the guck left behind by used engine oil, yeah, don't bother with engine oil, it's more work than it is worth when used in this sort of application (and I am specifically saying **this** application considering someone previously used the excuse of pouring it into ships engines and commercial furnaces as a reason to use it in response to one of my comments, which are not the same thing!!)...
I mix methanol with diesel as it helps break down carbon deposits that build up in a diesel engine and also helps reduce emissions.
You can add upto 14% before running into other problems as methanol can be crosive to certain engine components. Not many parts to wory about in a heater mostly metal.
Adding methanol lowers emissions of carbon monoxide and hydrocarbons and nitrogen oxides. But will increase Formaldehyde emissions when the engine is cold.
However Methanol is also biodegradable and like diesel can be grown from planted crop.
There is already methanol in diesel but never more than 10% as one of the activities along with hydrochloride acid as a dirtergent..
These are things they don't want you to know about fuel.
You can make it work for you.
The burn chamber mods have also been done already. It doesn't work. I dont mean to be negative, as I want someone to come up with a way to burn waste oil effectively, but rehashing things that have already been done won't get us there.
You know looking at the construction of that i would be sooo tempted to feed a tiny tube of HHO through the intake tube to see how it changes.. totaly useless in real world use but pure curiosity.. il have to wait till i get my workshop built in spring to test it lol
I've been thinking a similar thing, just a bit scary if it ever fills with oxygen and hydrogen, and then suddenly lights, youve got a 8omb
I was thinking about just feeding it the oxygen side of the HHO to help it try burn more completely.
@@ratgreen Yer thats a valid concern but as long as the system is pushing air through the system its safe as it cant build up.. to stay safe just dont activate the hho until the things running lol
The moral of this story is pretty obvious!😀👍
Yeah..waste oil seems to have too much additives and crap in it to burn clean enough to not goo/sludge up the burn chamber...suxors
what is the maximum pressure the pump supplies fuel at?
In these heater the fuel is pumped at basically zero pressure.
My heater wick was clogged like that, I just took it out and it runs ok.
It needs some sort of regen on it
IMHO I would (if I had the $, skills, and a workshop)
1. find a way to either speed up combustion air fan (over power it a volt or two?) for more oxygen or add greater air intake volume in some other secondary way.. enlarge air intake? add a second fan? Can you speed up combustion fan with afterburner setup?. Is fan speed of combust air part of what goes up along with more fuel when one turns the heater to higher temp setting??. Can afterburner software turn up fan but not fuel flow??
2. cut some tabs into the top of the slotted burn tube there in the bottom of burn chamber and bend the tabs up . Add more slotted tube to the one it came with above that to make it Half?? longer? and or stainless steel screen or something to extend the slotted tube so there is more hot metal further up into the burn tube to help further combust the alternative fuel being used??
Can't imagine where taking the cup w/hole would help at all. Likely made things worse- IMHO keep that. Someone had a good point to re-run this last experement with diesel to see if removing that makes it work worse on diesel. Suspect it will..
Thanks for all you do David.
I guarantee it runs worse without the cup with hole. It's there to further force the mix of diesel vapour and air during combustion. But it was also where all the ash got stuck. I was hoping removing it would help blow the ash out the exhaust.
Fan and fuel speed are independently adjustable. I have a feeling if I push the air faster I'll end up with more heat going down the exhaust than being transferred into the heater.
@@DavidMcLuckie makes sense. Much appreciate the reply. Was also leaning toward that being there to increase air velocity.
Does anyone think a waste motor oil mix that has been filtered with a centerfuge at a 50/50 mix would have any different outcomes? Or if you switched back and forth between a wmo mix and straight diesel while running on high maybe 12hrs wmo mix 1 hour diesel?
It is best to move the partition plate of the combustion section outward by at least 40mm.
yeah it needs the partition plate...I said put it at the end (flip the pipe and re-weld) this way the fire heats the entire tube and is restricted a bit
I saw his other video and it seemed to just slather the unburned goo/sludge out of the burn chamber an into the body causing that to be gooped up as well
I remind hot and dirty I don't tune it for pollution efficiency The more pollutes the hotter I can get it I can go a year and a half with running used motor oil I run it as hot as possible without it thermal shutting down it's not clean but I get the most BTUs out of it and it doesn't clog up my unit
Synthetic oil don't really burn well..
It’s not getting hot enough to burn off the carbon … I don’t know if pre heating the oil will help cuz cold burn
Not u making me think …I have seen an aluminum bodied heater so the plastic don’t melt extend electrons off the burn chamber if the burn chamber is hotter so carbon will be carried away
Also why are u at 3.5 at 4K …max the fan speed set pump the that get the heater hot
Ok the heater you cut the end off to see in the burn …. Can you cut the washer out and see how it starts and burns in that heater …….also can you fit a burner( stock) in that but cut down like 1” from washer then block off the end about 1/2” from the end that was cut down makein it smaller
Also punch slots in the washer so the grabs the flame and blow carbon the the end
Can the exhaust outlet be made bigger
hel low..... first
First