Thanks for mentioning me! Try holding the flame closer to the plastic, and keep it moving more quickly. Also, I've had better luck flame polishing router-cut and saw-cut edges -- no need for sanding.
BTW, I've now seen several videos here that mention that regular propane torches aren't hot enough to melt-polish acrylic. You need something called a high-heat or "MAP gas" torch.
You should wet sand to a finer grit like others have said to improve the finish before hitting it with the torch. Also as soon as you catch it on fire the heat will cloud and deform the acrylic.
have you thought about buffing it with a buffer wheel? I think just as long as you don't get it too hot it'll shine up and become clearer. Of course use a buffing compound to get it nice and shiny and clear that's the way my Nephew does faded headlights which are just acrylic lenses or at least in the family.
i wonder what the best method to polish a drilled hole would be. i want to make a clear check valve for a visual demonstration. "mushrooming" from heat would be bad in my case.
I wish to cut 10mm diameter colored acrylic rods into 50mm lengths in quantity and polish the cut edges. These will be used in jewelry production so a finished look is necessary. A slight bevel would be nice. These could be chucked on a drill press then spun against an abrasive or buffing surface. For instance a sanding/buffing block fixed at an appropriate angle. Some guidance would be greatly appreciated.
Normally wet sanding works to prevent heat warping and plastic build up from 400 grit (and many boring hours later as you step down) to 4000 grit, then use a new high speed buffing wheel to = perfection! But hey there is no fun in that! Seeing how fast you can get it to look like clear glass with other methods is what makes it interesting...nice work!
I wouldn’t use heat polishing on anything thicker than 1/4”. I use sand paper from 120,220,300,400,600,800,1200 and finish at 2000. I then buff with Tripoli then with automotive wax by hand.
Already dine this before. Sand paper grit is key. Work ur way up to 2000, and clear coat the surface at the end and ull get that crystal clear look ur after
Interesting polishing method I've not seen that before. It looks like you got a blotch anywhere it caught fire so perhaps a hot air gun would be better.
What do you think about making your own 3d printer/CNC machine? I think this project would be right up your alley. Just add swappable heads and it becomes a CNC/3d printer/laser cutter(or engraver) if you make the modules www.instructables.com/id/Arduino-Controlled-CNC-3D-Printer/?ALLSTEPS
Safety issue. Don't use acrylic for the top of a vacuum chamber ! it has no strength will implode and shatter, you need to use Poly-carbonate at least 20mm thick.
***** Yeah I know that it was sandwhiched between the 'bulletproof' glass, and I thought that this was basically 'plexi-glass'? Lol yeah I wouldn't trust it from a 50 though, maybe a 7.62 but definitely a 556.
You’re not achieving the effect by heating the object… that will just distort the acrylic. You’re merely lightly heating the near microscopic peaks and valleys -that you first achieve by using finer and finer sandpaper- that then immediately cools into a clear surface… like a gloss.
@@RinoaL I was merely trying to help elucidate the difference between heating up the entire object, which warps the final product giving a distorted result… vs applying a thin coat of heat just at the surface, letting just that thin outer layer that’s been buffed by sandpaper and/or toothpaste to liquify and smooth out any imperfection, setting almost immediately. -sorry about the strike through, I had no idea this would create that effect…-
How to Polish Acrylic Plexi. 1. If downward spiral bit is an option then run it around all sides to even plexi. 2. Start off with 400 grit and wet-sand edges. 3. Work your way through 600 800. 1000, 1500. 2000. 4. Wipe clean edges with a solvent line Napatha or Glass Cleaner without ammonia. ( Do not use Acetone or you melt your piece) 5 Use a torch and glaze over finish sanded edges and let cool down. 6. Enjoy your crystal clear edges.
So, where's the part where you talk about the torch itself? Where are your considerations for choosing the proper torch type? What is the point of this 8 minute video if viewers don't even get to see what kind of torch you used? What kind of gas? What on Earth is a "blowtorch"? I know that housewives use this term from time to time, but that's basically the point: if the word "blowtorch" is a part of your everyday vocabulary, you shouldn't be allowed to touch this kind of equipment with a ten foot pole.
@@RinoaL I get it but it'd be helpful to know the brand, model, type of gas, if there are any settings which can modify the shape or heat of the flame, etc.
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Thanks for mentioning me! Try holding the flame closer to the plastic, and keep it moving more quickly. Also, I've had better luck flame polishing router-cut and saw-cut edges -- no need for sanding.
your vids are so much fun to watch!
BTW, I've now seen several videos here that mention that regular propane torches aren't hot enough to melt-polish acrylic. You need something called a high-heat or "MAP gas" torch.
too bad MAPP gas isnt made anymore, was discontinued in 2008, all we have now is MAPP substitutes.
and no this seemed to be hot enough.
Most informative. Thanks
Bootiful, and quite resistant.
You should wet sand to a finer grit like others have said to improve the finish before hitting it with the torch.
Also as soon as you catch it on fire the heat will cloud and deform the acrylic.
have you thought about buffing it with a buffer wheel? I think just as long as you don't get it too hot it'll shine up and become clearer. Of course use a buffing compound to get it nice and shiny and clear that's the way my Nephew does faded headlights which are just acrylic lenses or at least in the family.
can acrylic rods be sharpened with a pencil sharpener?
i wonder what the best method to polish a drilled hole would be. i want to make a clear check valve for a visual demonstration.
"mushrooming" from heat would be bad in my case.
I wish to cut 10mm diameter colored acrylic rods into 50mm lengths in quantity and polish the cut edges. These will be used in jewelry production so a finished look is necessary. A slight bevel would be nice. These could be chucked on a drill press then spun against an abrasive or buffing surface. For instance a sanding/buffing block fixed at an appropriate angle. Some guidance would be greatly appreciated.
That is so cool my parents would never let me take cool stuff like that
wonder if hot air rather than a flame might be a better way?
What about spinning the round plastic on a turntable while heating to help even out the gloss, a drill on a fast speed might even prevent it burning
You need to start by lapping the surface of the acrylic against a fine grit sandpaper held against a very flat surface.
where do you get those rod stands for! want some to display my props!
TAP plastics
Normally wet sanding works to prevent heat warping and plastic build up from 400 grit (and many boring hours later as you step down) to 4000 grit, then use a new high speed buffing wheel to = perfection! But hey there is no fun in that! Seeing how fast you can get it to look like clear glass with other methods is what makes it interesting...nice work!
Were you using Mapp gas or propane? Mapp gas is the way to go.
Is that plexiglass? or perspex?
Koi dss sakda v kitho mille ge acrylic pipe?
Rinoa Super-Genius I think regular sanding and a polish wheel will work better, I use to do that.
Try a heat gun, it has the same effect without the flame and finer control obviously. It's not as focused so you have to watch out for warping though.
I wouldn’t use heat polishing on anything thicker than 1/4”. I use sand paper from 120,220,300,400,600,800,1200 and finish at 2000. I then buff with Tripoli then with automotive wax by hand.
Which gas is in blow torch ?
Already dine this before. Sand paper grit is key. Work ur way up to 2000, and clear coat the surface at the end and ull get that crystal clear look ur after
Try heat from friction. A clean buffing wheel or hand polishing with a clean cloth.
you need to use acetone FUMES. IT POLISHES PLASTICS TO A REALY HIGH SHINE.
Wha?! I must know more about this!
It causes cracks in plastic so over time it weakens it !🤔
High heat to melt the edges. Not in one spot long enough for deeper penetration warping nor catching on fire.
Interesting polishing method I've not seen that before. It looks like you got a blotch anywhere it caught fire so perhaps a hot air gun would be better.
What do you think about making your own 3d printer/CNC machine? I think this project would be right up your alley. Just add swappable heads and it becomes a CNC/3d printer/laser cutter(or engraver) if you make the modules
www.instructables.com/id/Arduino-Controlled-CNC-3D-Printer/?ALLSTEPS
I know that it sounds counter-intuitive, but try holding the flame a lot closer than you were.
sc0tte1 Closer, hotter and expose it to the heat for a shorter time.
Get flame closer and back off quick!
need to use water with the paper and then can only fire one time once its done its done.
Try fine sandpaper and T cut
Safety issue. Don't use acrylic for the top of a vacuum chamber ! it has no strength will implode and shatter, you need to use Poly-carbonate at least 20mm thick.
I was wondering if plastic is strong enough also. TAP sells polycarbonate as well.
They use some of that acrylic on the glass of humvees, so it's gotta be strong lol.
***** Yeah I know that it was sandwhiched between the 'bulletproof' glass, and I thought that this was basically 'plexi-glass'? Lol yeah I wouldn't trust it from a 50 though, maybe a 7.62 but definitely a 556.
Is that "plexyglass"??
the brand? idk
Either sounds like you're getting sick or allergies acting up... or better audio quality settings? Eirhwr way nice results.
You’re not achieving the effect by heating the object… that will just distort the acrylic. You’re merely lightly heating the near microscopic peaks and valleys -that you first achieve by using finer and finer sandpaper- that then immediately cools into a clear surface… like a gloss.
Your comment doesnt make any sense because that is exactly what I said I was doing, so how am I not doing it with heat?
@@RinoaL I was merely trying to help elucidate the difference between heating up the entire object, which warps the final product giving a distorted result… vs applying a thin coat of heat just at the surface, letting just that thin outer layer that’s been buffed by sandpaper and/or toothpaste to liquify and smooth out any imperfection, setting almost immediately. -sorry about the strike through, I had no idea this would create that effect…-
you need to sand it to at least 2000 grit
Yeah I was trying to see if I could find a quicker method
How to Polish Acrylic Plexi.
1. If downward spiral bit is an option then run it around all sides to even plexi.
2. Start off with 400 grit and wet-sand edges.
3. Work your way through 600 800. 1000, 1500. 2000.
4. Wipe clean edges with a solvent line Napatha or Glass Cleaner without ammonia. ( Do not use Acetone or you melt your piece)
5 Use a torch and glaze over finish sanded edges and let cool down.
6. Enjoy your crystal clear edges.
So, where's the part where you talk about the torch itself? Where are your considerations for choosing the proper torch type? What is the point of this 8 minute video if viewers don't even get to see what kind of torch you used? What kind of gas? What on Earth is a "blowtorch"? I know that housewives use this term from time to time, but that's basically the point: if the word "blowtorch" is a part of your everyday vocabulary, you shouldn't be allowed to touch this kind of equipment with a ten foot pole.
i'm a professional lab manager at Apple, a blowtorch is a tool.
@@RinoaL I get it but it'd be helpful to know the brand, model, type of gas, if there are any settings which can modify the shape or heat of the flame, etc.