Good simple video...If it's something other than the computer, that is most cases, always draws a " little "current, like clocks do too....If you find, but can not repair and/or replace, what is causing the extra draw, you can put in a manual disconnect that turns off the power at the battery or a manual, switch controlled disconnect, that can be mounted in the cab, but with more expertise involved...A kill switch so to speak, cheap and simple....Many are made to mount directly on the battery terminal and are easy to install, but you have to raise the hood every time to use it.... I also recommend pulling the computer fuse first, before checking anything, then the others...Just in case....Thanks for sharing this video...It's still a good one.
another big thank you for your way of showing me a step-by-step, for somebody who hasn't got a clue, how to test it and being very thorough. I'm going to share this w/ everybody at where I work at for their DIY needs.
For years, my car ate batteries. Each year I had to replace the battery. If the car sat unused for a few days, the battery would die. No mechanic performed or even suggested a parasitic draw test. They just kept selling me replacement batteries. Finally one day, I realized that the problem was that the rectifiers in the alternator had shorted. The battery was draining through the windings of the alternator. How do I know this? Because one day I saw a thin stream of smoke drifting from underneath the hood. When I opened the hood, there was an inch tall flame on the alternator, which water couldn't extinguish (because the current from the battery was flowing through the windings, heating them like the filament of an electric light bulb). The alternator was replaced. A draw check confirmed that the current leak from the battery had stopped. No more dead batteries.
Kevin that is scary as hell ! I wonder how long that flame would stay going until it died out? Everytime you had to recharge or jump off the car, and then it starts to flame up again. Double scary. No, much more than that!
Actually thats the way I do it and think its the easy and best way. Just be sure to get proper contact as its easy to miss the test point of these fuses.
Extremely well explained and soooooo useful . Just had to get a ride with my brother cos came out to a flat battery. So this video will be invaluable in finding the fault.
Maybe need to set the range on the meter to a lower range. If it has one. Better to use an analog ammeter. Doesn't have to trigger any circuits to operate.
That’s exactly what I said to this gentleman, if you show a draw with the tester you should had shown a draw with the meter, I truly think that this guy don’t have a clue on what his doing or got confused doing this as maybe it’s hard to record a video and talk at the same time for this guy.
+Jimmy Cassell The draw is simply just too small to be shown because he has it at 10 Amp range, he should lower the range and it would show the draw. Its fine to use your head you know.
Your vehicle is naturally going to have a draw to it with the key turned off. How do you think your stereo keeps memory? So the light test with the negative terminal is bs. To know if you have a problem you have to use a meter and look at the exact number that its drawing. Example, my mustang Cobra draws .o9 volts when the car is off because its feeding the memory for the stereo.
My Honda Odyssey has multiple devices connected to fuse 7, which is the one that drains the battery. How do I go about identifying what device is causing this. The radio, DVD, GPS, automatic door and remote key are connected to this fuse. Any feedback would be appreciated.
Hello! I am dealing with a parasitic drain on my 2017 nissan pathfinder that cases my OEM radio to turn on at random times thus killing my battery. Even when I unhook the radio completely from all the harnesses I can see on my multimeter that there is a drain of 3.5 to 4 volts at all times and the only thing that fixes the issue is to pull the extended storage fuse. I have removed the fuse box and found the harness that controlls the extended storage fuse is just a thick copper wire that is hot all the time. I know one of the wires that it controlls is the blue memory wire leading to the back of the radio. Initially I even tried just cutting that wire and running it to a different positive just to see the results and though the radio never turns back on by itself the parasitic drain is still there. I have already spend thousands of dollars at the stealership for module replacements, sensor replacements, radio relacements and all this for them to NOT fix the issue. Now they are swearing that only $8000 more to replace the whole wiring harness will fix the issue. I mean holy crap, who do they think I am and what do they think they are they working on, a Lamborghini? I'm just a regular guy with a family and I need a vehicle that works, especially when I am paying $450 a month for this think. I know this is a lot, but do you have any advice? Thank you so much!
Thanks having a problem with LAC my battery keeps falling dead I hvae a 95' DeVille 4.9L and I will. Try this test and see what comes of itm THANK YOU!!!
It's a good idea not to wear any jewelry that could conduct any current, such as watches, and bracelets, or rings...They could cause an arc and turn red hot in a milli second, causing painful burns...Great video.
Hello, good morning, I am a follower of your channel and I am contacting you, to be able to comment on the following situation that occurs in my vehicle, Ford mondeo mk2 2.5 v6, one morning the battery was discharged, without knowing how to change the battery, when month or so, the car stopped in full operation, it was as if the electricity had died, stop, giving it and giving it until it started, again as if the battery was without charge, it was only a month old, I changed the alternator regulator , and well, I bought it, it charges over 14.5V, and I considered the fault finished, one day cleaning the interior, I left the radio on, while I cleaned, and nothing a few minutes later, the voltage began to drop, less to less, until the battery was discharged at that moment, I was surprised because that had never happened to him, I did another test, with the battery charged again, I gave the contact, after a short time, equal to less to less , that in a moment the battery goes away, I recharge it, install it, and leave it and connected approximately 2 months, until I realized that the red light of the alarm did not blink, I checked it and discharged, that did not happen in the past either, it carried out the current leakage test with the multimeter, because I told myself that this would have to be a current leak, it is the logical thing to think, and what was my surprise, that the value it gave is 0.02 amps, with the battery just charged, so there is no current leak, I have also performed the voltage drop test and it gives 000v both positive and negative, and then what happens to it? I don't even know what else to do, regarding what I am explaining to you, I await your prompt clarification, please, greetings.
Hello, i bought my son an 05 honda accord and the battery is draining and it has an aftermarket stereo so i checked the draw and it was 200 milliamps so i took the stereo fuse out and it went down to 0.00 put it back in and went right back up. I took the stereo out and checked all wiring and it seems good. Stereo works also but cant figure out where its coming from. Any suggestions??
Love your personal rags to riches video series and on becoming an electronics expert. Setting up ammeter in series with the battery's ground circuit as shown sounds off my car alarm. What do I have to do differently to do the parasitic draw test?
Car alarm on my 95 Corolla is one thing I would like to disable PERMANENTLY. If I have a valet switch by the driverside kick panel, the toggle may be missing. Owner's manual doesn't cover car alarm. Car model-specific reliable consumer instructions on disabling car alarms are hard to come by and time-consuming, and electronic techno instructions are hard to understanding and follow to be actionable. Toyota dealers would not give me a straight answer or touch it. Would you have any pointers for disarming a 95 Corolla or the critical information and skills I need to have to disarm my car successfully?
what could happen if you create a spark with the positive and that bolt right there on the frame..what ground is for that.. i think its grey and black wires
i have a nissan march 2012 and iam having many electrical problems , right now fog light works and headlight works, front wiper but the electrical lock system not working and turn signal not working , and back wiper not working , any idea what do i have to change ? btw turn isgnal is flashing rapidly but no signal is on from the bulb. this means its a problem of the whole electrical system ? not only replacing fuse or relay or bulb will fix it?
this video really very good and helpful for how to fix a car battery problem. . Another resource I also found useful for how to recondition lead acid battery with epsom salts was Panlarko Recondition Planner - find it on google if you want
I have a 24-year-old E150 it runs okay but the battery goes dead after a day and a half just sitting there it's got a new battery the alternator is putting out 14 volts it's actually the second battery that I have in the vehicle that's less than 4 months old I have to put a battery minder on it so I don't wind up in a situation where it won't start if I need to use the truck I do that a day before I saw what you did and I am an air conditioning contractor I've worked with electricity for 30 years what if it's the ignition switch or if it's the computer how do you diagnose that problem I removed all the bulbs in the dome lights so that can't be a problem even if the door switches are bad if the dome light bulbs out there it's not going to draw an amperage is very little to the truck that has anything in interior wise that could be the problem it might be the computer or maybe the ignition switch because I had a problem with it shutting off and I always make sure that it's in the lock position when it's in the off position because I could take the key out no matter what position it's in so I always make sure that it's locked in the off position but that hasn't helped at all I don't know exactly what the problem is I might have to bring it in I SAW WHAT YOU DID WITH THE FUSES BUT IF IT'S THE IGNITION SWITCH OR THE COMPUTER IT REALLY WOULDN'T MATTER BECAUSE I MIGHT STILL HAVE AN AMP DRAW NOT KNOW WHERE IT'S COMING FROM the only way would be to pull the ignition switch and take all the wires off I wouldn't know how to check the computer I guess I can unplug the computer but I don't want to screw with that I'm pretty expensive to replace
I did test with my tester and pool off all the fuses one by one still tester light is on .Than for being sure I tack all the fuses out no fuses was on fuse box ,still tester light is on. Can you tel me any think ales I can do to find the short Circuit in this car?
Ok so the fuse that changed was the main battery fuse. The test light went from very brite to about 10% and stayed lit none of the rest did any change. Dose that tell you its a ground some where? Its not blowing any fuses just goes dead if not run every day.
hi I do have a question how can this test be done if the battery in the trunk while the the doors have to be closed what about the trunk? I have a 2003 Mercedes e500 the main battery in the trunk and there is 2 lights inside the trunk. can this test be done on the auxiliary battery under the hood ? I need your help thanks
You have 2 options, remove the bulbs if they are easy to get to or simply close the trunk latch with a screw driver. When you are all done, don't forget to open the latch before slamming down the trunk lid. The latch method is better since if you have an alarm system, the circuit will think the trunk lid is closed and "sleep" with no draw.
I have a 2007 bmw 328i i swapped 2 fuses which are for the locking and unlocking system because my car wasn't locking/unlocking. After I swapped it out it started to unlock and lock. And when I started the car again it would not start anymore. I had a mechanic come look at it and says it's the starter. Do you think I did something wrong? And my battery is at 11.4V.
@Monir Did you find a fix? One way is to attach wires at the places specified to attach meter leads. Run wires outside trunk and close trunk. Without kinking wires. Of course, check for drain between your added wires. Make sure no shorts or crosses in your wires. 2nd try. Set everything up. Have a flashlight. Make sure trunk release is working. Hop in trunk and shut lid. Check for drain. Check for electrical drain. Check for kitchen sink if ya want. I took my out.
Uhh the test light IS NOT showing you a draw you are closing the circuit and giving the test light a source of power. You can do this on any perfectly working vehicle. The meter test is however the correct way
I would rather let the pros work on something than trying to fix it. They have the schematics and probably the computers that test them. Stayed for the whole video. Thank you.
can I just go over to the fuse box wit the multi meter and test the top of each fuse and see if there is a draw by waiting for the meter to drop to zero? If it doesn't then that would be what would be drawing current...
Lessco Electronics u seem very smart with this stuff ..my mom's positive wire to battery is getting so hot the bolt burns my fingers ...extremely hot...any ideas?
I am having trouble with my Ford F2 58th 2006 I am getting some type of power on my negative check the multimeter and it was a 11 point something and 12 point something and then I connected to the app and I had to point something on it I’m just lost
Great video. I found it very helpful and informative when trying to diagnose my battery drain issue. If you don't mind me asking, what kind of battery cable terminal ends are being used on that car in the video? They look really nice and like they are good quality. I would be interested in purchasing a set if I knew where to find them.
My truck wouldn’t start at first then I took my negative terminal off for a few minutes reconnect it then it started is that a sign that it has a drain
The multimeter will indicate a reduced amp draw when you find the first offending circuit, but still show a value, for example a 3.5 amp draw goes down to a 2.5 amp draw when you pull a particular fuse. Leave that fuse out and continue pulling fuses one at a time. If no change in the indicated amp draw place the fuse back in it's socket. Repeat until the amp draw is zero.
So how come you had a draw on the first test with the power tester and 0 on the power meter????? 🤔🤔🤔🤔 it should had shown that there was a draw on the power meter as well correct? You also obviously show that there was a draw but didn’t show what the issue was, or was the draw happening because your trunk was opened? I’m more confused then when I started watching the video bud. 😕
Modern fuses can be tested for continuity without removing them as there are two small metal contacts on the outside of the fuse. So why not test for amps the same way as testing for continuity instead of taking all the fuses out ?
your not checking for continuity at the fuse. you are checking for no draw at the battery after having temoved the fuse that deactivates that particular circuit whatever it may be door light, radio etc. that way you've identified where the problem is. Then you know where to look.
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FYI...Alternating AC current is the wave sign on your meter and the straight double line is DC current.
I was just going to say type that...note the straight line over the dashed at the 10A DC setting he used.
That's why he get zero reading on test meter but get light ON on test light tester.
I had to laugh myself is there anyone that works on cars that did not catch that?
Curvy line is AC. Straight line is DC.
Good simple video...If it's something other than the computer, that is most cases, always draws a " little "current, like clocks do too....If you find, but can not repair and/or replace, what is causing the extra draw, you can put in a manual disconnect that turns off the power at the battery or a manual, switch controlled disconnect, that can be mounted in the cab, but with more expertise involved...A kill switch so to speak, cheap and simple....Many are made to mount directly on the battery terminal and are easy to install, but you have to raise the hood every time to use it.... I also recommend pulling the computer fuse first, before checking anything, then the others...Just in case....Thanks for sharing this video...It's still a good one.
another big thank you for your way of showing me a step-by-step, for somebody who hasn't got a clue, how to test it and being very thorough. I'm going to share this w/ everybody at where I work at for their DIY needs.
thanks
Thanks for the information. It's a light at the of tunnel for me. I'm having trouble with a drawn battery. Keep up the the good work!
You should make more videos les, you are a natural, thanks from Alberta Canada.
Thank god it’s that easy. I thought my first car was trashed, I didn’t even know where to start
For years, my car ate batteries. Each year I had to replace the battery. If the car sat unused for a few days, the battery would die.
No mechanic performed or even suggested a parasitic draw test. They just kept selling me replacement batteries.
Finally one day, I realized that the problem was that the rectifiers in the alternator had shorted. The battery was draining through the windings of the alternator.
How do I know this? Because one day I saw a thin stream of smoke drifting from underneath the hood. When I opened the hood, there was an inch tall flame on the alternator, which water couldn't extinguish (because the current from the battery was flowing through the windings, heating them like the filament of an electric light bulb).
The alternator was replaced. A draw check confirmed that the current leak from the battery had stopped. No more dead batteries.
My was a Ford Taurus 99. Was yours was a ford?
Kevin that is scary as hell ! I wonder how long that flame would stay going until it died out? Everytime you had to recharge or jump off the car, and then it starts to flame up again. Double scary. No, much more than that!
fcuking hell😳
there is a constant voltage draw that is there all the time from the ecm!
have it in my 2006 dodge ram 2500 5.9 diesel. this is byfar the best video on how to fix. cheers
ty
Ac is a wave to show you the sine wave hence the wave symbol and Dc is a straight line with dot below as Dc is a square wave , human error happens
u got that right
If you are alone, just place the ammeter across each fuse socket one by one until you find the conducting circuit.
Actually thats the way I do it and think its the easy and best way. Just be sure to get proper contact as its easy to miss the test point of these fuses.
do I need to keep the meter set to Dc?
Haa, the "curvy " line is for AC, the flat line for DC.
Thanks brother, truth in lay mans terms, short and straight to the right way through. Be blessed.
How to change battery in 2016 dodge ram 1500
Cold it be possible to just take you meter to the fuse box and test for draw on the fuse.
Thats what I did and my radio thatdidnt work was drawing 0.007 , causing my battery to drain
Extremely well explained and soooooo useful . Just had to get a ride with my brother cos came out to a flat battery. So this video will be invaluable in finding the fault.
hey great tutorial but yeah curvy line is AC dotted line is DC or maybe you ve had afew lines
Yeah when he said that I was like What!?
I must have misunderstood, You had a draw using the continuity test light but when you used the multi meter it should no draw?
Jimmy Cassell
thought the same thing. both should have shown an issue.
Maybe need to set the range on the meter to a lower range. If it has one.
Better to use an analog ammeter. Doesn't have to trigger any circuits to operate.
That’s exactly what I said to this gentleman, if you show a draw with the tester you should had shown a draw with the meter, I truly think that this guy don’t have a clue on what his doing or got confused doing this as maybe it’s hard to record a video and talk at the same time for this guy.
Yeah I know it didn’t make any fucking sense
+Jimmy Cassell
The draw is simply just too small to be shown because he has it at 10 Amp range, he should lower the range and it would show the draw.
Its fine to use your head you know.
Your vehicle is naturally going to have a draw to it with the key turned off. How do you think your stereo keeps memory? So the light test with the negative terminal is bs. To know if you have a problem you have to use a meter and look at the exact number that its drawing. Example, my mustang Cobra draws .o9 volts when the car is off because its feeding the memory for the stereo.
I think you mean the stereo is drawing .09 Amps, not Volts. The voltage should be pretty close to 12 regardless of amperage.
I appreciate the detail presented. Thumbs up and thanks.
Thanks for watching!
Many thanks for making it simple enough to understand .
Glad it was helpful!
My Honda Odyssey has multiple devices connected to fuse 7, which is the one that drains the battery.
How do I go about identifying what device is causing this. The radio, DVD, GPS, automatic door and remote key are connected to this fuse. Any feedback would be appreciated.
AbdulQader Mustafa omg I’m looking for my Odyssey too!!! Same fuse!!! Do I just have to buy another one to replace it???
Hello! I am dealing with a parasitic drain on my 2017 nissan pathfinder that cases my OEM radio to turn on at random times thus killing my battery. Even when I unhook the radio completely from all the harnesses I can see on my multimeter that there is a drain of 3.5 to 4 volts at all times and the only thing that fixes the issue is to pull the extended storage fuse. I have removed the fuse box and found the harness that controlls the extended storage fuse is just a thick copper wire that is hot all the time. I know one of the wires that it controlls is the blue memory wire leading to the back of the radio. Initially I even tried just cutting that wire and running it to a different positive just to see the results and though the radio never turns back on by itself the parasitic drain is still there. I have already spend thousands of dollars at the stealership for module replacements, sensor replacements, radio relacements and all this for them to NOT fix the issue. Now they are swearing that only $8000 more to replace the whole wiring harness will fix the issue. I mean holy crap, who do they think I am and what do they think they are they working on, a Lamborghini? I'm just a regular guy with a family and I need a vehicle that works, especially when I am paying $450 a month for this think. I know this is a lot, but do you have any advice? Thank you so much!
So I’m confused…the light on that cheap tester glowed, but the multimeter showed 0%. Why? Shouldn’t the multimeter have shown some draw as well?
You made that look so easy. I am going to keep this for future reference.
you said that some cars have more than one fuse box. To be on the safe side ,should I check both of my boxes ,if I find a draw, can the be two
What are some of those devices?
Thanks for teaching me how to fix my car
OK. Glad I'm not the only one who caught the erTor. the wavy line denotes AC and the straight line with the dots denotes DC.
How to get a Volvo with a security system cranked have let but fob
Got it wrong. Ac and dc. Curved vs straight and dashed lines. Good job.
oy, thanks for being the 90th person to mention that, 10 points for originality
thanks a lot it helped me greatly and figured out what was draining my battery
Thanks having a problem with LAC my battery keeps falling dead I hvae a 95' DeVille 4.9L and I will. Try this test and see what comes of itm THANK YOU!!!
You had a draw on the 99cent tester but none on the multi tester,confused me alittle,can you explain.
Exactly! I’ve been searching for an answer to that as well
Any advice on a 99 Ford Expy.
Does this work on a Cadillac srx an my my altnator is new also the battery will not charge I ran 2 brand new batteries down
It's a good idea not to wear any jewelry that could conduct any current, such as watches, and bracelets, or rings...They could cause an arc and turn red hot in a milli second, causing painful burns...Great video.
LOL! I'll thank you now for the info, great video.
Thks fast and simple. Life to complicated to finish confused.
That’s straight forward thanks will give this a try
Hello, good morning, I am a follower of your channel and I am contacting you, to be able to comment on the following situation that occurs in my vehicle, Ford mondeo mk2 2.5 v6, one morning the battery was discharged, without knowing how to change the battery, when month or so, the car stopped in full operation, it was as if the electricity had died, stop, giving it and giving it until it started, again as if the battery was without charge, it was only a month old, I changed the alternator regulator , and well, I bought it, it charges over 14.5V, and I considered the fault finished, one day cleaning the interior, I left the radio on, while I cleaned, and nothing a few minutes later, the voltage began to drop, less to less, until the battery was discharged at that moment, I was surprised because that had never happened to him, I did another test, with the battery charged again, I gave the contact, after a short time, equal to less to less , that in a moment the battery goes away, I recharge it, install it, and leave it and connected approximately 2 months, until I realized that the red light of the alarm did not blink, I checked it and discharged, that did not happen in the past either, it carried out the current leakage test with the multimeter, because I told myself that this would have to be a current leak, it is the logical thing to think, and what was my surprise, that the value it gave is 0.02 amps, with the battery just charged, so there is no current leak, I have also performed the voltage drop test and it gives 000v both positive and negative, and then what happens to it? I don't even know what else to do, regarding what I am explaining to you, I await your prompt clarification, please, greetings.
Nice video thanks & God bless 🙏
Thank you too
Hello, i bought my son an 05 honda accord and the battery is draining and it has an aftermarket stereo so i checked the draw and it was 200 milliamps so i took the stereo fuse out and it went down to 0.00 put it back in and went right back up. I took the stereo out and checked all wiring and it seems good. Stereo works also but cant figure out where its coming from. Any suggestions??
Love your personal rags to riches video series and on becoming an electronics expert. Setting up ammeter in series with the battery's ground circuit as shown sounds off my car alarm. What do I have to do differently to do the parasitic draw test?
+omnidivisible You can't disable that alarm tentatively? most systems have some method of going into valet mode.
Car alarm on my 95 Corolla is one thing I would like to disable PERMANENTLY. If I have a valet switch by the driverside kick panel, the toggle may be missing. Owner's manual doesn't cover car alarm. Car model-specific reliable consumer instructions on disabling car alarms are hard to come by and time-consuming, and electronic techno instructions are hard to understanding and follow to be actionable. Toyota dealers would not give me a straight answer or touch it. Would you have any pointers for disarming a 95 Corolla or the critical information and skills I need to have to disarm my car successfully?
Can i trust this info after he says icon for dc is curvey line?
Thanks for sharing
Knowledge is power
Good video. Short and to the point
Outstanding troubleshooting technic! I was clueless on how to troubleshoot. Thank you!
Very helpful and clear. Thank you for posting!
I'm glad it was helpful
ur welcome!
what could happen if you create a spark with the positive and that bolt right there on the frame..what ground is for that.. i think its grey and black wires
Awesome my brother is experiencing a draw from his 2003 Chevy pickup I'll let him know how to check and fix it thank you.
welcome
My moms buick encores battery keeps going down what do you think it could be?
did you do a amperage draw like I explained here yet? there is your answer.
@@Lesscoelectronics just did it still went down so i tried something else
And found out it was the battery so yeah thanks man
CORRECTIONS: at 04:00 the "V" with a line and a dotted line represent dc and the "V" with a curvy line represent ac Voltage.
Battery have to be connect it for this ??
Then does that mean he had the multi-meter hooked up incorrectly for AC instead of DC? Would it have made a difference here in what he did?
Awesome great clear helpful information Thank you sir
This is interesting but only shows how to find which circuit is causing the problem not how to fix it as it claims in the title of the post.
i have a nissan march 2012 and iam having many electrical problems , right now fog light works and headlight works, front wiper but the electrical lock system not working and turn signal not working , and back wiper not working , any idea what do i have to change ? btw turn isgnal is flashing rapidly but no signal is on from the bulb. this means its a problem of the whole electrical system ? not only replacing fuse or relay or bulb will fix it?
this video really very good and helpful for how to fix a car battery problem.
. Another resource I also found useful for how to recondition lead acid battery with epsom salts
was Panlarko Recondition Planner - find it on google if you want
Is this an example of the dunning-kruger effect?
Most after market amp can draw small amount of amperage also too..
Repair and replace what wires?
The circuit causing the drain
I have a 24-year-old E150 it runs okay but the battery goes dead after a day and a half just sitting there it's got a new battery the alternator is putting out 14 volts it's actually the second battery that I have in the vehicle that's less than 4 months old I have to put a battery minder on it so I don't wind up in a situation where it won't start if I need to use the truck I do that a day before I saw what you did and I am an air conditioning contractor I've worked with electricity for 30 years what if it's the ignition switch or if it's the computer how do you diagnose that problem I removed all the bulbs in the dome lights so that can't be a problem even if the door switches are bad if the dome light bulbs out there it's not going to draw an amperage is very little to the truck that has anything in interior wise that could be the problem it might be the computer or maybe the ignition switch because I had a problem with it shutting off and I always make sure that it's in the lock position when it's in the off position because I could take the key out no matter what position it's in so I always make sure that it's locked in the off position but that hasn't helped at all I don't know exactly what the problem is I might have to bring it in I SAW WHAT YOU DID WITH THE FUSES BUT IF IT'S THE IGNITION SWITCH OR THE COMPUTER IT REALLY WOULDN'T MATTER BECAUSE I MIGHT STILL HAVE AN AMP DRAW NOT KNOW WHERE IT'S COMING FROM the only way would be to pull the ignition switch and take all the wires off I wouldn't know how to check the computer I guess I can unplug the computer but I don't want to screw with that I'm pretty expensive to replace
I did test with my tester and pool off all the fuses one by one still tester light is on .Than for being sure I tack all the fuses out
no fuses was on fuse box ,still tester light is on. Can you tel me any think ales I can do to find the short Circuit in this car?
Shakibafar Mohammad Ali the engine computer ecm and the transmission pcm and your radio all have constant power to them to retain there memory
Ok so the fuse that changed was the main battery fuse. The test light went from very brite to about 10% and stayed lit none of the rest did any change. Dose that tell you its a ground some where? Its not blowing any fuses just goes dead if not run every day.
That indicates there is a draw on another circuit somewhere.
hi I do have a question how can this test be done if the battery in the trunk while the the doors have to be closed what about the trunk? I have a 2003 Mercedes e500 the main battery in the trunk and there is 2 lights inside the trunk. can this test be done on the auxiliary battery under the hood ? I need your help thanks
You have 2 options, remove the bulbs if they are easy to get to or simply close the trunk latch with a screw driver. When you are all done, don't forget to open the latch before slamming down the trunk lid. The latch method is better since if you have an alarm system, the circuit will think the trunk lid is closed and "sleep" with no draw.
I have a 2007 bmw 328i i swapped 2 fuses which are for the locking and unlocking system because my car wasn't locking/unlocking. After I swapped it out it started to unlock and lock. And when I started the car again it would not start anymore. I had a mechanic come look at it and says it's the starter. Do you think I did something wrong? And my battery is at 11.4V.
what caused the fogs to draw amperage?
only thing I can think of is an illuminated switch or a bad relay
Really helpful video. Thanks mate
Good video even tho AC and DC were mixed
sir how to confirm this test on a 2003 Mercedes e500 while the battery in the trunk and trunk has lights ?
@Monir
Did you find a fix?
One way is to attach wires at the places specified to attach meter leads.
Run wires outside trunk and close trunk.
Without kinking wires.
Of course, check for drain between your added wires.
Make sure no shorts or crosses in your wires.
2nd try.
Set everything up.
Have a flashlight.
Make sure trunk release is working.
Hop in trunk and shut lid.
Check for drain.
Check for electrical drain.
Check for kitchen sink if ya want.
I took my out.
Uhh the test light IS NOT showing you a draw you are closing the circuit and giving the test light a source of power. You can do this on any perfectly working vehicle. The meter test is however the correct way
An easy way to check. thanks
Thank you for making this video!
Thnks it gave me understanding in how to fix the problem thanks
Ac voltage is always curvy. DC voltage is line Dash. Maybe that's why it showed no draw on the multimeter? ......
Thank you, You are 1209th person to remind me of that.
I would rather let the pros work on something than trying to fix it. They have the schematics and probably the computers that test them. Stayed for the whole video. Thank you.
can I just go over to the fuse box wit the multi meter and test the top of each fuse and see if there is a draw by waiting for the meter to drop to zero? If it doesn't then that would be what would be drawing current...
Only if you check amperage draw, yes
A standard test light will light up and show you what you need to know and you don't have to worry about damaging your multi-meter.
Awesome vid buddy good job and thanks!
Im glad it was helpful
Lessco Electronics u seem very smart with this stuff ..my mom's positive wire to battery is getting so hot the bolt burns my fingers ...extremely hot...any ideas?
thats dangerous, my guess is the wire is very corroded inside. replace it
I am having trouble with my Ford F2 58th 2006 I am getting some type of power on my negative check the multimeter and it was a 11 point something and 12 point something and then I connected to the app and I had to point something on it I’m just lost
Great video. I found it very helpful and informative when trying to diagnose my battery drain issue. If you don't mind me asking, what kind of battery cable terminal ends are being used on that car in the video? They look really nice and like they are good quality. I would be interested in purchasing a set if I knew where to find them.
+mustangmaniac1983 thanks, and those are memphis top post battery terminals
those are memphis brand top post terminals.
4:00 DC is the dotted line and AC is the curved line, I thought it would be best if I was to clear that up for you..
if im getting draw... can I use my cheap test light and keep cjecking while pulling fuses? and once test light wont light il know its that fuse?
Yes! you definitely can. Ive done that many times, Always works terrific.
My truck wouldn’t start at first then I took my negative terminal off for a few minutes reconnect it then it started is that a sign that it has a drain
It's gonna be a little hard to close the hood when that is where my battery is.
Manually close the latch with the help of a screwdriver, don't forget to open it again before slamming down lid
Remove the bulb from the hood. Then you should be okay.
What happens if more than one fuse is creating a draw?
The multimeter will indicate a reduced amp draw when you find the first offending circuit, but still show a value, for example a 3.5 amp draw goes down to a 2.5 amp draw when you pull a particular fuse. Leave that fuse out and continue pulling fuses one at a time. If no change in the indicated amp draw place the fuse back in it's socket. Repeat until the amp draw is zero.
So how come you had a draw on the first test with the power tester and 0 on the power meter????? 🤔🤔🤔🤔 it should had shown that there was a draw on the power meter as well correct? You also obviously show that there was a draw but didn’t show what the issue was, or was the draw happening because your trunk was opened? I’m more confused then when I started watching the video bud. 😕
Bori Cua because he’s wrong
Bori Cua u
I used a multimeter first found no parasitic draw and then used the test light and it turns on always even when there isnt a draw
Hi there at 3:42 can you please move the meter down the reading is obscured
Excellent video. Thx
My radio turns on without the key being on could that be draining ny battery ?
yah!! connect the red wire to acc (keyed) power instead of constant 12v power, and it'll work properly.
The voltage on my car's battery reads 12.3 when connected and 12.6 when terminals disconnected. Is this normal? What could cause this?
i have a 2008 Cadillac CTS 4 and some thing is draining my battery im so sick of it i need help
start by using my tips.
Chandra Epps same here. I have a Volkswagen Beetle. The battery is dead every single AM.
i think you miss spoke. curvy line is AC.
Jesus dude. You were all over the map in your explanation.
man...really helpful video,thanks a lot!!
Modern fuses can be tested for continuity without removing them as there are two small metal contacts on the outside of the fuse. So why not test for amps the same way as testing for continuity instead of taking all the fuses out ?
and if you can - replace a bad fuse with a good fuse that glows when it turns bad ...
+Rocket Rider d
your not checking for continuity at the fuse. you are checking for no draw at the battery after having temoved the fuse that deactivates that particular circuit whatever it may be door light, radio etc. that way you've identified where the problem is. Then you know where to look.
Naked coeds
hey buddy i did that and i still have a drain none of the fuses put the light out what do i do next ?
whats the vehicle?
2002 saturn sl2
that car has 2 fuse boxes doesnt it? did you check the fusebox on the center console passenger side?
no i only knew about the one under the hood
i just found it ill check that one out lol thanks alot buddy
YOU CAN THANK ME LATER ! thats what she said !
Lol
You got the DC and AC opposite, DC is on the left AC on the right
Thanks for the video!
your flux capacitor?
yeah
Do it without any scan equipment just the contact light