Mysterious Anvils
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- Опубликовано: 8 сен 2024
- If you are looking for an anvil, don't give up! Watch this: • How To Find An Anvil
Here's my big anvil: • Hay Budden Anvil - 448lb
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Thank you, be safe, and be grateful.
That little guy anvil is missing parts. It was a vise/anvil combination. These were only useful for light work, as the vise typically was broken off if used too hard. Great work, nice find
That’s right
You beat me to it. It's part of one of these : www.worthpoint.com/worthopedia/blacksmith-anvil-vise-combo-1885667942
@@Uncle_Buzz Good catch. I thought it had to be something like that, but i wasn't able to locate an example. The one in your link looks like the same manufacturer and period.
I was about to say the same 👍
first thing i thought aswell
When I was a little boy My grandfather forged scythe blades. He warmed iron on hot coal. I was pumping air. I don't know it's name but tuhat was fun Ford 5-6 years old boy. The anvil Also was old. I remember he told that his father bought it. Sorry My language I'm Finnish but your videos are great. 👍 That memory came to My mind when I watched this video.
What happened to his shop and tools? Do you have or can you get them? Sounds like an amazing history
Well I have the twin brother to your mystery anvil. I purchased it from the grandson and it had been in his family for nearly 70 years he claims. All the same castings and footprint design, but not a makers mark or inscription on it. It weights right at 208 lbs and is in excellent shape. Good rebound on the face all the way back to the hardy hole. Then not so much back toward the heal of the anvil.
Same type of ad listing as it showed up on Craig's list 250 miles away in Hobbs, New Mexico. I travel there on business about every quarter and asked a friend/customer to go buy it for me and I would pick it up in about 2 weeks, which he did and I would Paypal the money to him that day. The internet has taken out most of the blind "junking" of the good ole days and now allows you to view all of these treasures from the comfort of your home or office, negotiate the price, transfer the funds, and arrange for pick-up without ever breaking a sweat. Seems the world has gotten a lot smaller.
That looks just like a fisher anvil to me, I have a 120lb fisher. There are guys who have date studies on them, if you provide the dimensions they can usually get you the important information on it without the cast markings. As far as the cast iron/steel goes, you can always do the chip test and drill a little into the underside to see if the chips are flaky(iron) or stringy(steel). Thanks Scott.
Take a grinder, cast iron will have blue sparks, cast steel will have more yellow / orange sparks.
I would guess the small one would of been part of a Anvil/Vice Combo including pipe jaws? Great find! Thanks for the video from the UK! :-)
I scrolled down to the comments to say the same thing.
I think so, it pop into my head one my great uncle had one I kind of remember it but that is about 45 years ago - I guess you're missing the other half plus of it maybe there is someone who needs that part.
I had the same thought when I saw the pipe holding jaws and where it appears to have snapped off from the sliding section of the movable jaw.
I’ve seen similar anvil/vise setups mounted to the back bumper of pipe fitters trucks.
@@psidvicious
In that application they may not need the rebound. Just a flat solid surface.
Late model Fisher. Had a sticker label and no eagle logo or name cast. If you find one with an intact sticker then you'll have a few anvil hounds howling at your door very quickly.
intersting. makes sense. i was thinking someone just ground off the casting of the eagle and anchor. but this is most definitely a Fisher anvil.
Yep it's a Fisher Norris. I have 3 of these in different weights. Fisher is my favorite anvil and I have had many other brands but once I got a Fisher I was hooked. Great quality and they don't hurt my ears.
Love the Anvils. I have my wife's grandfathers anvil. He made the gates for the U.S. Naval Academy and his initials can still be found on them. I also have my father's PETER Wright Anvil and it is a good one too. Just cool to have in the shop and nice tools to be able to use on a daily basis. Jim in Chile.
12-15-2023 I bought an anvil from a customer I was visiting, in their barn I saw a small rusty anvil. A week later I was watching YT here and I see a gentleman banging on his anvil that looked identical, his email was at the beginning of the video. So I sent him a message and pics, his response was kinda shocking. He said that my was forged between the years of 1750 and 1790 and was in exceptional condition for being 233 plus years old. Can’t wait to bang on it !
It's a spitting image of my 1909 Fisher 200#, Love this anvil!
Can you elaborate on the science (or whatever) that makes one anvil Rebound more that others?
Oh man she's a beauty. Plus there's something magical about finding a good piece, neglected in the back of someone's storage, and bringing it home, cleaning the rust off, and returning it to service. I just cleaned an axe given to me by a neighbor and read the story written on its face.
If you've got an anvil that needs a home, I would happily house it!
My favorite channel by far these days, very educative! AND as a bonus, having Frank Drebin with Dick Proenneke’s narration voice sharing all that awesome knowledge.
my grandfather is also a blacksmith and also tells so many details about his tools that i do not understand then, now i know....
My Granddad once said, "You can kill a dove just as dead with a Remington 1100 for $200 as you can with a Benelli Super Black Eagle for $1200" Fisher or not that thing will get it done.
He didn’t say that.
@@lucilledog8832 Whooosh!
Lucille Dog why wouldn’t he have said that?
$200 1100? they are just as expensive as the benelli in my part of the world
@@Highstranger951 Not in the early 1980s when our original 1100s were purchased.
He said “just before Father’s Day” I had to go check my calendar
That second one looks like a vice anvil. The holes was for the screw and handle of the vice to pass through. Why it has pipe jaws on the rear, the other 1/2 of them was on the vice mount plate. The top works as anvil AND the edge does double duty as a vice jaw to line up with the vice mounted base head.
I watch every content offer of the essential craftsman. First because this guy seems to have done his research but more importantly because of his hands on, practical applications. He doesn’t just talk about these things he puts them to real world applications.
That said, I really watch his content offerings because I like his voice! I don’t know. There is just something about his voice and voice inflection that I aka like! Be that as it may, the essential Craftsman speaks to me in an authentic reality that resonates!
The anvil is likely a fisher once they were purchased and made by crossley before they shut down production. The Crossley Fishers don’t have the molded eagle, but had a paper sticker that usually got lost. One the back side of the anvil is usually a letter and a number. The number is year of manufacture. I’ve got one that is marked V 71, so it’s made in 71. Hope that helps
Loved this episode. I'm about to buy a small anvil to get started in blacksmithing. My local scrap yard has several. Good to know what to look for and do de ball-bearing test.
Could the holes in the small anvil be reminiscent of thread and guide slots for that to be a vise/anvil?
I just moved the anvil (250 lbs. or so) I rescued from the weeds beside the shed. She's rusty but now indoors and ready for the ball drop test. (Wish I'd done it before I moved it, though.)
I've seen one of those small ones, they had a vise on them. I guess it was a multi tool concept and was tailored to some (unknown) particular use. Cool scores none the less! I keep seeing someone on the Seattle Craigslist selling one of those vises that you showed in a previous video, the kind that reach down to the ground from the bench (I forget the name). Anyway looks to be in good shape. Great video, :)
Leg vise. Complete good working order 6" models go $150 or so in my area. Your mileage may vary.
@@bubbafudpucker397 Ahh that's it, I couldn't think of the name, Thanks. Yeah I think they're asking $250 here in Washington. :)
The 3 thumbs down must be from people who bought anvils that won't rebound.
Now there are 12, I'm looking for those anvils w/o rebound. Anybody?
Or cheap ball bearings
I agree I think it has a decent rebound but not great it could also be that it has a great rebound but he is working with a low tensile strength betting.
I have an attwood 120ish pound anvil that my great,great ,great grandfather had and was finally past down to me and now lives in my own welding/ blacksmith shop and is used almost daily one question I have is have u ever heard of an attwood??
I don’t know blacksmithing so excuse a simple question, but is the rebound (and thus quality anvil) due to casting quality, hardened steel, material density, etc? Thanks, I gasped when the bearing hit the mild steel plate, that was really interesting
I love seeing these videos while I'm making a railroad anvil. Only thing I need is one big block to snap the horn out of and I may have the first german style railroad track anvil!
boutique cache and anvil in one sentence? kudos!
I would like an anvil but around here they go for stupidly high prices, $6+ per pound is not unheard of. I think I'll keep using that small chunk of railroad track for what little I need.
Watching this episode and my 8yr old says “is this the guy who makes the pizzas super fast?” Ummm....yes! Lol 😂😂
Anvils isn't the worst you can collect.
I guy near me collects line excavators.....
My brother started collecting bridges.
Howzabout antique outhouse seats?
🚽
@@stanervin6108 I have heard of the Birch John Society.
Super-Balls ! There's a blast from the past. Forgot all about those.
i believe the small anvil may be part of a larger vise. as in, the holes on the sides are a pass-through for vise screws.
Beautiful finds. If the anvil was a needle, he can find it in a mile worth of haystack. Would love to get myself an antique black smith anvil but I don't think there were many Black Smith's leaving here in South Florida and I know people like to hoard them. Every YT video I see the guy would have a couple to a dozen anvils and talking about getting more.. sigh..
S.Fla would have needed blacksmithing just like everywhere else. I would check the Medley area (west Miami-Dade). That was an industrial area longer than I can remember.
@@psidvicious Will look there. Thank you for the info!
Everytime I see a new video of anvils I always get anxious to find myself one lol
I bet at least one of the holes in that little anvil was a threaded rod, and the other was maybe a second guide rod. There was probably a clamp mechanism that joined up with that pipe jaw half, and the anvil was part of a vise--a pretty interesting vise.. That's my bet. And, I bet it looked pretty cool.
But are all ball bearings the same?
I'd suggest testing a ball bearing on a friend's good anvil, before depending on that ball bearing to pass judgement on a prospective anvil.
You can quieten down the Anvil ever further if you put two Rings on Chains on either end. An Italian in 1833 found this out, i read on German Wikipedia.
Perhaps that baby anvil was at one pint in its life part of a vise? Hence the tube holding gibs and the guide holes. Most likely slid down into place aligned with the dovetail joint and then the guide rails were inserted through the holes and fastened on their ends. Very unique indeed!
Hey.
The second anvil looks like a piece to a multi adaptive vise I use to have. Can't remember it's name, too many years ago. However, if I'm not mistaken I think ShopSmith used to make one. Memory is getting foggy.
An appropriately sized U bolt should fit through the holes in that ASO, allowing you to clamp up a bar or pipe. Just how useful that would be is anyone's guess, but I think I would try doing a patent search. It may prove to be a remarkable little gem (most likely not, but such things happen). It would be interesting to see what the original intent was for that thing.
Bring along a ball bearing made of lead so you can talk down the price.
Lol
The lead is actually softer and will bounce higher if I am not mistaken. Think about a bouncy ball - it bounces because the material is very soft in comparison to the floor or wall. The weight of the ball bearing isn't as relevant, as a heavier bearing will start with more potential energy than a light bearing, and will not accelerate/decelerate to gravity any differently than a steel bearing.
The bounce test is all about relative hardness, so you want as hard of a bearing as possible to talk down the price. Bring a tungsten carbide ball bearing or a bearing made of tool steel, and it won't bounce nearly as much.
@@josephforbes5517 I think it's more to do with elasticity. A material like lead will stay permanently deformed and doesn't tend to bounce back to it's original form once you bend it. A more elastic material can absorb energy temporarily and then release it again like a spring and go back to it's original shape.
@@josephforbes5517 : Nah. You pretty much have it backwards. Bounce is the result of elastic collision, which in the macro world relies on elastic deformation. Lead undergoes almost no elastic deformation, and the energy of impact is absorbed in inelastic deformation.
Some day you gotta explain why rebound is important. How's it affect forging?
I think he covered that in a previous video ?or at least touched on the subject while discussing forging ,
if you go to the home page and in the "videos" tab scroll back and watch the posted ones related to Anvils and or forging
you should get your answer ? ;-)
It’s nice to see your savings anvils , iv been trying to find one but not yet . At the moment I’m saving hammer heads from the scrape yard TJ Kenya
Hello. I really enjoy your videos. My uncle gave me his anvil, which may have been my grandfathers. It is a Hay Budden and in many ways I think it is in very good condition. The edges of the top working surface show little sign of abuse. However it does not perform so well with the ball bearing test. When I started to clean it up a bit with some sandpaper I did notice that the area where most of the work (hammering) would have been performed, directly above the waist is slightly dished out. All of the above makes me think it was a very well used anvil, but used by a real professional who used it but did not abuse it.
Back to the ball bearing test. The ring from dropping the ball is more distinct and the bounce is higher away from directly above the waist. Still not as good as what you show in this video. So my question is; If I am right that this anvil is well worn but not abused, could the wear area I am referring to be some kind of delamination of the hardened steel plate which was bonded to the anvil at the time it was manufactured? Or did Hay Budden use that method in the creation of this anvil?
On a side note, when I first started looking closely at this anvil I was disturbed by the welding I was seeing at the midpoint of the waist. I knew nothing about anvils at the time and I had never noticed that in other anvils. Thanks to youtube and internet research I now understand that the welding was for joining a wrought iron base to a cast steel or forged top. That was a relief.
Thank you
I'd love to enter again but I just ordered a really nice anvil and I'd hate to take that one from someone who needs it or is currently working on a piece of railroad track or small block of steel.
I that sure could be a Fisher. They didn't all have all the common casting marks. Get ahold of Joshua at the Fisher and Norris Factory Museum. He's the expert on them.
Think about it. That small one looks like half of a vise/anvil combo. The holes through it, the pipe jaws in the side.......
The small anvil appears to be part of an Anvil Vice combo. The patent can be found on Google Patents here: patents.google.com/patent/US536219A/ You can see an example (with the missing pieces) in this forum post on BladesmithsForum.com www.bladesmithsforum.com/index.php?/topic/39573-odd-long-side-vise-on-anvil/
Watching the demonstration in this video of the rebound test was a profound moment for me .. why ? Because it demonstrated to me that "rebound" and using the test as an indication as how good the anvil steel face will be in helping the blacksmith to forge on it, has very little merit. The moment that I realised this is when the mild steel plate was placed on to the anvil face and then given the rebound test which it failed miserably. When a blacksmith forges heated soft metal on the face of a good anvil which has past the rebound test with flying colors... the rebound from the face does not transfer through the relatively soft material being forged.. rather it fails miserably as was demonstrated. I will gladly stand corrected if my conclusion can be proven to be incorrect. Rob the Oz.
where do you pick up a ball bearing like that
It looks like u have an anvil addiction in your shop ! I know a good counselor! Lol
Thanks for the advice! I never knew this trick! Before this video, I just presumed an anvil was an anvil, & they would all do the same job.
Hi, I've been subsibed to you channel for some time, and I really enjoy your videos. Very informative honest, and made with love. As I watched a video of some young people building a ship in Costa Rica I thought maybe it would be nice if you could find a way to help them in some way or another. All the skills you've shown in your videos are the ones they could use a hand in. Milling lumber, carpentry, blacksmithing etc. I think this anvil would be a nice present for their project. . Their youtube channel is called Sailcargo inc. Building Ceiba. I have to tell you that I don't have any affiliation with this channel and they don't know who I am. It's just that I think it would be a great idea. . Have a nice day. Keep on making those nice videos. .
Very likely this patent number US536219A. The drawing looks similar although the holes are aligned horizontally. Like others have said it’s part of a larger assembly called a combined anvil I believe.
Keep up the good work!
Very cool. Can't wait for the giveaway. Love the smaller one too.
lil anvil may have been a component of a fancy vice. holes for rails, broken casting at base on one side.
For help with the "Fisher-like" anvil. Check with Josh Kavett. FaceBook: Fisher & Norris Factory Museum. Just last month Josh published the definitive book on Fisher anvils. He has built a private museum at his home in New Jersey. He, almost, has one of each anvil made by Fisher & Norris.
That second anvil looks like it was made from a railroad track
Too tall for rail track it's from a vice Anvil combo one of the other posts has a link for reference 👍
Looks like a brilliant find to me, I would love the small one for my jewellery making 👍and thanks for the ball bearing tip👍 thanks for sharing 👍
I think the patent for the second one is online if you are interested. Looks like it's a 3 in 1 anvil, vise and drilling machine. patents.google.com/patent/US536219A/en
"Come back up like a super ball" Just gave your age away my friend. I remember when they first came out when I was in my early elementary school days. 61 years old now and still remember the excitement of having one of those.
I was taught to use a flat face hammer an it should bounce and bounce down evenly to a stop for a good anvil. And i think the little one is a cobblers anvil?
Good stuff,thanks for the ball bearing tip and I really enjoy videos.
Curious how much the larger one weighs. Perhaps I missed it in the video, but I think you usually mention that stat when discussing anvils.
It's a nice anvil but in my opinion anvils with lots of rebound are unnecessary. You are striking hot iron that is soft, not the anvil. Mass under the hammer is more important in my opinion.
The ball bearing test is a good thing to know, but why? What does good rebound indicate for the budding blacksmith?
Jack Hanson More than likely that your hammer will come back up with little effort, just my HO.
@@johnkrim8377 Thanks for the answer. I thought that might be it but I'm a beginner.
Love them both. That little Anvil is so cool.
Thank You Sir !
Might mention rust affects rebound. A pass with a knotted wire cup wheel might improve the rebound test considerably. Finish too. A rough, pitted surface blots up more rebound energy than a nearby smooth surface.
Great score either way.
Those two holes in the side are for the threaded rods to go through for a pipe vice.
Keep the anvil! Its to nice to give away.
The little anvil was a combination of a vise and an anvil. It's missing the clamping part and the screw.
This man sure loves anvils.
Do a spark test and you can get a pretty good idea what composition...at least cast vs steel. Cast iron will have dull almost no spark, where steel has the sparklers.
I got my Peter Wright the same way...Have a Question: I didn't the ball bearing drop just like you and it RINGING I had pro Welder fill in the corner chips and refurace the top....He mentioned that he thought the horn may be cracked! As you tap the top place with a ball pein it rings .....as you move to horn it losses alot of the ring....suggesting that the anvil is cracked at the horn to top plate???? if yes should I have it welded now or wait unitl the horn cracks off?a egh
Where can you buy (1) 1/2 inch ball bearing?
Maybe it was just the viewing angle, but the mini-anvil appears to have a significant down angle. (That's submarine lingo for "not level">)
Kinda like an airplane pilot calling it "altitude compromised" ?
@@stanervin6108 Dr.’s sometimes label an injury sustained as a result of fall from great height as, “acute concrete poisoning”.
Something about that second anvil looks like a plumbers anvil, perhaps used for making and shaping lead pipes.
Looks like that small anvil was a combo vise / anvil. Must have had a threaded rod with a handle of some sort. 💥🪓
I want one like this sir ☺
yeahbut, the top of the little guy is rusted and pitted. Clean it off and re-try the rebound ;-D
Is there any place to buy EC stickers? I'd love to have a couple but I can't seem to find a place to get them, I love EC content and I've been taught quite a bit about working hard and smart
My name is Dave...I too have an anvil problem.
I have a lake side anvil and have no idea about the history of it all I know is that it’s from the 1920s and it’s 105 lbs
In your video you said that rebound is very important in an anvil. Why? What advantage does Rebound give you?
I'm actually planning to buy a bunch of 2in ball bearings to use as drink chillers for my liquor cabinet. I'll have to set one aside for when I go to the flea market just in case I spot an anvil I might want to buy.
Huh, interesting idea, drink chillers. Maybe in combination with some of those Tervis tumblers. Best insulated glasses I’ve ever owned. And necessarily plastic of course.
@@psidvicious I've been using large ice-sphere molds for years, but I'm kind of tired of the effort that goes into it, so I figure it might be worth it to try swapping them out with large stainless bearings. As for the glass, I just picked up some more heavy weight, thick wall, Libby rocks glasses that I've really enjoyed. Already had one assorted set, but bought two more sets.
Something about them is just satisfying to have in my hand.
Thanks for sharing and take care. 👍
As far as the manufacturer of the anvil, if the body is cast, the pattern had to have been available so it could easily have been a government job at the mfr.'s plant. Somebody wanted an anvil at home and bootlegged one. It appears to be pretty high quality so it just slipped out the back door, is my guess.
How do you make forged Anvil have rebound
Hi, I found volcan 200lb anvil in fair conditions, how much do you think is the fair offer ?
A dollar fifty per pound is fair.
EDIT/ADDENDUM:
Brand new average six dollars a pound for quality brands, But can easily surpass for a Penninghaus. Cast iron ones are about two bucks a pound. You get what you pay for; and you pay for what you get. Your biggest expense, I'm afraid, is going to be supplemental equipment (a decent 'used' swage block can go for about five hundred. Same for a four foot cone mandrel).
Don't let the prices worry you. Buy quality and buy once. Buy cheap over and over.
Have been blacksmithing since the 1970's . And never have I ever regretted a quality purchase!
Hammer on, friend. Enjoy the ride!
Read less
Can I send few pictures for you to see if it’s a good one or should I keep searching?
Just a guess I recently saw an anvil like the smaller one you showed that had I vice attached to the side so those serrated jaw sort of thing on the side could be to hold pipes and you may be missing the other half not sure just putting it out there thanks for the videos I love them keep it up.
THANK U
How to you determine who your going to give the anvil to??
Pat. NO. 536219.. THis is for the small anvil.. its way more then i seen you or anyone ekse guess.. including myself...😆🤣😅... very cool.
That small anvil looks like maybe it was one of the jaws of a big clamp maybe.
Your ball bearing test would have been more useful if the test subjects had been more similar. A rusty surface isn't going to have decent rebound, nor is a loose plate.
What sort of rebound would you get on a Vulcan anvil, for instance? (Cast iron base and tool steel cap.)