What a great project! So beautifully videoed too! Best of luck finding a way to speed up the process of seating the LED's. I can’t wait to see the final result!
okay but did you see his video he posted where he used his 3D printer and a template to locate/pickup/drop the LEDs? he definitely did it a lot faster and his approach is great, too
Some tips for screen printing solder paste. using only 2 boards to register your board (instead of 4 boards), will register the board well, and its easier to put them in and take them out. You dont hve to use other PCBs, but they are convenient and the right hight, but other things will work too. Solder paste is kind of a tricky thing. Temperature, and how dry or old it is can really effect the outcome. We usually get it in small jars, and you start by mixing it up and getting a nice soft consistence, similar to creamy peanut butter. You shold get your boards in the oven within a few hours of screening, the sooner, the better. If they get too dry, you have reflow problems, so for best results, screen, place parts, and get them in the oven as soon as possible, avoid screening up a bunch of boards at one time, or they may get end up costing a lot of time in rework.
@@Dombi3D Also, we used rubber squeegees, its probably a lot easier if you use something like a rubber scraper(like from the kitchen drawer) that might get you that one clean motion that you want so much for even distribution.
Thank you so much for the video. Could you please provide your schematic or circuit diagram for the PCB design, along with the details of how you addressed power line interference with the data lines in the PCB? Did you utilize a 3-layer PCB to isolate the three lines into separate layers?
Awesome video! I am planning on building some kind of visor for a helmet which will also have a PCB like this, but the LED's will have to be way smaller and I will have to make holes / slots to see through. I want to include WS2812B-2020 LED's, but don't know whether I should manually solder them all on, or find a place that can assemble them for me (SMT).
I have learned to handle the matrix neopixel with classic bluetooth, but I can not do it with bluetooth low energy you have a video on this subject, what happens that the classic bluetooth is very simple but the bluetooth low energy is complicated
He aprendido a manejar las matrix neopixel con bluetooth clasico,pero no logro hacerlo con bluetooth de baja energía tienes algún video sobre este tema,lo que pasa que el bluetooth clasico es muy sencillo pero el bluetooth de baja energía es complicado
I’ve seen that the through-hole ws2812b led’s don’t require any outside components, but everything I’ve seen about the SMD version says that a decoupling capacitor should be used on every led. Given that your matrix doesn’t have decoupling capacitors, have you noticed any issues with performance or longevity?
Hi new to your channel have you ever thought about making sim racing flags your work is awsome i sure would love one of this quality and im sure it will bring alot of traffic to your channel great video ❤
Gone are the days where people actually know what the real stream of data contains (the actual 1 & 0s) being sent to any of these displays... They just buy an "adapter" (not knowing what is even in it) and use a smartphone app to connect to it via bluetooth and then start sliding their finger around.
LOL why? you can buy flexible sheets 8*8, 16*16, and 8*32 already made for under $20.00 and a controller box preinstalled with WLED for $22.00 and $26.00 if you want a mic on it...
How to tell one is not a hobbyist without telling you are not a hobbyist. Making something gives way more satisfaction and insight than buying. Try it sometime.
If you value your time and know how much your time is worth monetarily, I promise you its not worth the endeavor, just buy it, understand the concepts presented but just buy it, it isn't worth the headache
What a great project! So beautifully videoed too! Best of luck finding a way to speed up the process of seating the LED's. I can’t wait to see the final result!
okay but did you see his video he posted where he used his 3D printer and a template to locate/pickup/drop the LEDs? he definitely did it a lot faster and his approach is great, too
Some tips for screen printing solder paste. using only 2 boards to register your board (instead of 4 boards), will register the board well, and its easier to put them in and take them out. You dont hve to use other PCBs, but they are convenient and the right hight, but other things will work too.
Solder paste is kind of a tricky thing. Temperature, and how dry or old it is can really effect the outcome. We usually get it in small jars, and you start by mixing it up and getting a nice soft consistence, similar to creamy peanut butter. You shold get your boards in the oven within a few hours of screening, the sooner, the better. If they get too dry, you have reflow problems, so for best results, screen, place parts, and get them in the oven as soon as possible, avoid screening up a bunch of boards at one time, or they may get end up costing a lot of time in rework.
Thanks for your tips!
@@Dombi3D Also, we used rubber squeegees, its probably a lot easier if you use something like a rubber scraper(like from the kitchen drawer) that might get you that one clean motion that you want so much for even distribution.
Thank you so much for the video. Could you please provide your schematic or circuit diagram for the PCB design, along with the details of how you addressed power line interference with the data lines in the PCB? Did you utilize a 3-layer PCB to isolate the three lines into separate layers?
Can you share the pcb?
Awesome video! I am planning on building some kind of visor for a helmet which will also have a PCB like this, but the LED's will have to be way smaller and I will have to make holes / slots to see through. I want to include WS2812B-2020 LED's, but don't know whether I should manually solder them all on, or find a place that can assemble them for me (SMT).
Great stuff! I'm going to do something like this also. Thanks for inspiration!
I have learned to handle the matrix neopixel with classic bluetooth, but I can not do it with bluetooth low energy you have a video on this subject, what happens that the classic bluetooth is very simple but the bluetooth low energy is complicated
This is fantastic! Why has RUclips buried your channel??
He built a 9x9 LED matrix by hand. So of course the guy who built a 10x10 matrix will have more subscribers.
Awesome. Did you upload any video about the new version easier to solder components?
thanks buddy u are awesome
Any hope to get the files to order and build our own? Well done _ great piece
Hey Dombi3D Can you share your gerber file the pcb design??? Thank you
He aprendido a manejar las matrix neopixel con bluetooth clasico,pero no logro hacerlo con bluetooth de baja energía tienes algún video sobre este tema,lo que pasa que el bluetooth clasico es muy sencillo pero el bluetooth de baja energía es complicado
Very Usefull project
I’ve seen that the through-hole ws2812b led’s don’t require any outside components, but everything I’ve seen about the SMD version says that a decoupling capacitor should be used on every led. Given that your matrix doesn’t have decoupling capacitors, have you noticed any issues with performance or longevity?
These new WS2812B V5 LED-s do not require external decoupling capacitors.
Can you please give me the circuit diagram
Where would one get the files in order to buy these pcb's to make our own neopixels?
Cette realisation me parait compliquée, je fait ce genre de travail avec des matrice du commerce très peu onéreuse. Mais le plaisir est différent.
Hello, could you share the gerber file? thanks
Hi new to your channel have you ever thought about making sim racing flags your work is awsome i sure would love one of this quality and im sure it will bring alot of traffic to your channel great video ❤
Gone are the days where people actually know what the real stream of data contains (the actual 1 & 0s) being sent to any of these displays... They just buy an "adapter" (not knowing what is even in it) and use a smartphone app to connect to it via bluetooth and then start sliding their finger around.
cool🎉
Magyar vagy?🙂
LOL why? you can buy flexible sheets 8*8, 16*16, and 8*32 already made for under $20.00 and a controller box preinstalled with WLED for $22.00 and $26.00 if you want a mic on it...
How to tell one is not a hobbyist without telling you are not a hobbyist.
Making something gives way more satisfaction and insight than buying. Try it sometime.
520
The controller is absolutely not recommendable, burnt one of my boards instantly
If you value your time and know how much your time is worth monetarily, I promise you its not worth the endeavor, just buy it, understand the concepts presented but just buy it, it isn't worth the headache
I think the point, like with any tutorial or research, is to learn the basics in order to make modified versions down the line 😄
Hey Dombi3D, Can you please share your gerber file the pcb design??? Thank you