Bahahaha! 😆 for real! I can’t wait for my brother to come over and help me move it so I can finally really clean out my garage! Thanks for commenting, I appreciate the support! 👊🏼
Thanks man! I follow your channel too! Keep putting it out there; the lowrider community needs more “build content” Finished rides are fun to watch too; but the process is what gets us there 👊🏼
Thank you! I believe I saw a video by @gemcitywelding that showed/had where to get the parts to do it that way 👊🏼 You’ll have to look it up unfortunately; I can’t remember exactly what video it was. Hope that helps 👍
I wonder if stick welding would’ve been a better choice considering the thickness of the steel, and what about using an acetylene torch to help with bending? I can’t tell you how many C-clamps I’ve ruined over the years from tightening past their limits, but often it was too late by the time I discovered the limitation. I’m just an old retired Ironworker with a hobby of repairing my Michigan rust-belt hoopties. Perhaps the metallurgists out there could opine on the pros and cons of my musings.
You definitely could have stick welded it; from what I’ve researched, you could mig, tig or stick weld them. I think the mig is just the easiest for most non professionals. Yeah, I knew the c clamp was gonna get ruined by taking it past its limits; but I had already planned on turning it into a “frame tool” with the small hydraulic porta-power body-shop tool. The c clams are cast iron; so I did have the guy at the steel supply use a stick welder on that. I live in southern Missouri; so I definitely feel your pain with the rusty hoopties! 😂 thanks for commenting; I appreciate the input.
You’re welcome! I clamped the belly in about 1/2 an inch. There’s a brace inside the belly for the motor mounts that won’t really let you squeeze past that. Which is fine because you wouldn’t ever need too. Hope that helps 👊🏼
In that case; I would say I probably could have done it in half the time if I had bought a kit. Making the templates, cutting them out and cleaning them up was very time consuming 👍
Do you thing this is worth it on a 05 f150 frame , definitely was some shitty material they used because it’s done… crazy my 92 civic mint barley any rust anyway reason I asked is because it’s already boxed (oval) from factory except the back half which is gone basically from the front mounts of the leaf springs to the back Steals problem threw the roof right now
The only reason you’d want to go to this extreme on a frame would be if you’re going to put hydraulics on it and plan to do some hopping with it. I know on some race cars/trucks they do reinforce some of the stress points; but I don’t know a whole lot about that. If it’s just for a truck you plan on fixing up; you might find a nice rust free one and clean it up and weld in all the spots the factory skipped on. Then paint or powder coat it.
I can feel the metal dust in my nostrils from here
Bahahaha! 😆 for real! I can’t wait for my brother to come over and help me move it so I can finally really clean out my garage!
Thanks for commenting, I appreciate the support! 👊🏼
Good job. It's a boat load of work. Nice breakdown on cost.
Thank you! It was definitely worth all I learned from it. I might even do another.. but not right away haha
❤love you sons. I'm so proud of the both of you.😊
Love you Momma! ❤️
Great job. Definitely some info that will help me on my frame
Awesome man! I’m happy it helps out! Appreciate the comment 👊🏼
Great video
Thanks man! I follow your channel too! Keep putting it out there; the lowrider community needs more “build content”
Finished rides are fun to watch too; but the process is what gets us there 👊🏼
@@vencilldavid Absolutly! Thanks for watching. I appreciate the kind words. Keep up the great work!
Good video I doing wrap on my x frame right now I didn’t pinch my belly so it will be interesting to fit my steering linkage 🧐
Thank you!
I believe I saw a video by @gemcitywelding that showed/had where to get the parts to do it that way 👊🏼
You’ll have to look it up unfortunately; I can’t remember exactly what video it was.
Hope that helps 👍
I wonder if stick welding would’ve been a better choice considering the thickness of the steel, and what about using an acetylene torch to help with bending? I can’t tell you how many C-clamps I’ve ruined over the years from tightening past their limits, but often it was too late by the time I discovered the limitation. I’m just an old retired Ironworker with a hobby of repairing my Michigan rust-belt hoopties. Perhaps the metallurgists out there could opine on the pros and cons of my musings.
You definitely could have stick welded it; from what I’ve researched, you could mig, tig or stick weld them. I think the mig is just the easiest for most non professionals. Yeah, I knew the c clamp was gonna get ruined by taking it past its limits; but I had already planned on turning it into a “frame tool” with the small hydraulic porta-power body-shop tool. The c clams are cast iron; so I did have the guy at the steel supply use a stick welder on that.
I live in southern Missouri; so I definitely feel your pain with the rusty hoopties! 😂 thanks for commenting; I appreciate the input.
Thanks for sharing. I was wondering for clearing the steering linkage, how far on belly did you extend your 3/16 to 1/4" clamp-in on the ends/sides?
You’re welcome! I clamped the belly in about 1/2 an inch. There’s a brace inside the belly for the motor mounts that won’t really let you squeeze past that. Which is fine because you wouldn’t ever need too.
Hope that helps 👊🏼
@@vencilldavid thanks bud. I'm gonna be starting this in a few weeks.
It’s a ton of work; but totally satisfying each day!
@@vencilldavid looking forward to it. But debating if I should buy a pre-cut kit or not. I do have the tools, but want to save time
In that case; I would say I probably could have done it in half the time if I had bought a kit. Making the templates, cutting them out and cleaning them up was very time consuming 👍
Hmm, I wonder if moisture under the wrap, oxidizing
I’m sure it will some; but, the original lasted since the early 60’s at like half the thickness. So I’m sure it’ll be fine for like two lifetimes
Do you thing this is worth it on a 05 f150 frame , definitely was some shitty material they used because it’s done… crazy my 92 civic mint barley any rust anyway reason I asked is because it’s already boxed (oval) from factory except the back half which is gone basically from the front mounts of the leaf springs to the back Steals problem threw the roof right now
The only reason you’d want to go to this extreme on a frame would be if you’re going to put hydraulics on it and plan to do some hopping with it.
I know on some race cars/trucks they do reinforce some of the stress points; but I don’t know a whole lot about that.
If it’s just for a truck you plan on fixing up; you might find a nice rust free one and clean it up and weld in all the spots the factory skipped on. Then paint or powder coat it.
Alot of money to
Definitely!