30 years ago myself and one of my best friends used to make copper, brass and aluminum ingots for sale at a flea market. We would leave the ingot in the mold until the next one was to be poured to keep the molds hot and ready.
You are right every ingot is unique. I know you could make money but I can’t sell mine I love them too much . I poured a 10 Pound copper bar on my channel and my mate offered to buy it for $100 ,I told him noway not gonna happen ! $150🤔mmmmaybe . Great vid as always matey , Perfect pours mate . I love when copper pours like water it’s so much easier as you say to take it up to 100°C well over melting point to make it easier. After this video you’ll probably have 1000 watching your bars on eBay 👍🏻.
You've got a great channel, I like how your sticking to your guns and not drifting away from your casting vid's, your ticking along great, hope to see you do a special pour for your 10,000 sub's milestone
Need to preheat your molds and use flux before you pour, your barswill look 100 times better. Also, flip them into water about 10-20 seconds after pouring, and there will be less ripples on top of the bar. If you watch closely after pouring, you can see the copper harden over. Then flip into water.
If you have a lot of scrap copper that's not in ingot form, then it's worth it to melt down. Not only for its "artisanal" value, but also to save on space. You're looking at a small fraction of the required space, to that of all the loose wire (especially when we're talking about higher gauge wires).
Right before you pour take a little handheld torch and heat the molds up and I think they will come out better they sure look cool when they're done don't they
In my experience I think if he poured faster out of the furnace and skimmed the top of the metal before pouring and the top of the ingots before they cool they’ll come out cleaner
Anthony Pagenkopf something like a mini torch or two sized flame with a medium thick sheet of metal should keep the heat in the molds you can heat the pans with a torch or another method. On a separate note your doing good it’s important to have flaws in your projects god knows mine do some people brush these comments off as hateful but while they should be taken with a grain of salt they’re still a great forum of knowledge
I don't know why watching guys doing metal stuff like this gets me going like this but I know I had the evening of my life right now watching it. Keep it going.
These are good for sale to small foundries. Recycling facilities pay bottom dollar for cast metals. Novelty sales to the public fetch the highest price but the real value won't exceed spot as purity can't be confirmed.
Nice scaled attempt, not bad for start!! No doubt you already know what you can improve upon. Most important looks like you had fun doing it. Welcome to the metal melting party.
Before I pour I always set my graphite mold inside my Foundry and let it get warm and then I use a grass burner to keep the mold hot I found it work better and I like the result
Totally agree with what youre saying on the video its not scrap melted to scrap its the time the effort the gas costs etc and the end result of course id provably use a copper ingit as a fancy paper weight or door stop but knowing that it has artistic and financial value too. Well done by the way i enjoy watching the pours.
Total Heat/Energy (Q) = M (mass in kg) * Cp(heat capacity in j/kgC) * DT (change in temperature degC) Cp (water) = 4200 J/kgC Cp (copper) = 385 J/kgC If you wanted to cool down a 1kg copper bar from say 1000 degC to 25 deg C or room temperature, the total heat removed from the copper bar is Q = 1*385*(1000-25) = 375,375 Joules The 375,375 Joules of energy removed from the copper bar is transferred to the water. Let's say the cold tap water is initially at 10 deg C and there is about 10 liters or 10 kg of water in the container. What is the change or increase in water temperature when you drop 1kg of hot copper in the container? 375,375 = 10*4,200*(T-10) so T = 8.9 deg C At the most the water temperature should increase by about 9 deg C for each 1 kg copper bar you drop into 10 liters of water. So two 1 kg copper bars initially at 1000 deg C should increase the water temperature by about 18 deg C. Unless you had less than 10 liters of water in the container or your cold water was a lot warmer, I cant see the water getting that hot. (the other factor is that ingot weight was a lot higher than 1 kg)
it also has to due with the fact that math cant always solve everything or predict everything correctly, im sure there and many variables you are missing out and obviously you dont have the exact temperatures but still
@@Fisheiyy In cases like this, math absolutely can solve it accurately. The biggest factor the OP didn’t think about, is simply that hot fluid rises. It is certainly possible to have near boiling water at the top of a container, and significantly cooler at the bottom. If the water was well stirred, the temperature should be very close to the math.
Hi Ben, just watching your video, you said it takes 25mins for solids to melt and 40mins for wire, I don't know if you have an issue with your furnace or regulator, but I use a home made forge and it takes 15mins for wire and 8mins for solids. For copper I use .12mpa and generally put solids in first then add wire when its melted, it takes seconds to melt wire
Very, very cool. Personally I love the look of copper. Currently in the process getting the equipment to copper plate my bicycle and then clear coat it.
Love it!! Maybe if you put your molds into a pile of sand. The sand would help keep them hot. Far better than open air at least. Or maybe just surround them with fire bricks... ?
I seen a video where they were pouring gold into ingot molds,as soon as they completely filled the mold to the point it was over flowing the rim,just as the pouring was finished, another person used what looked like a large straight edged piece of stainless steel,doing a quick swipe across the top of mold,taking the overflow off and leaving a top surface that is real smooth. The gold that was scraped off the top just fell into a hopper below. Maybe you might like to try that trick on copper .BTW,.check those bricks below the grate from time to time for cracking. Heat really does a number to that type of brick.
Thank you Ben , many of us wanted to see you pouring Kilo Koppa Bars !.. Also as an option , if you want to keep bars shiny you can apply a light coat Spray Varnish Ex = Everbrite Coatings
Greetings from Pennsylvania USA Like watching & keep up the videos!! I love when you go scraping and finding all the cool stuff. Hear in PA we have yard sales, but after the sale ends most of the left over stuff is set at the curb. and any one come pick out what you like. Also most towns have a one day a year you can set out your junk to the curb. Hang in there, and stay cool in every way!!!! Robin Jo
Hey there, been a subscriber for a bit now. I just got my 1st furnace. Merry Christmas to me. You inspired me my friend. Can't wait to make some bars for gifts and hoard and sell. Love watching your videos you really go into detail and have helped me with my scrapping. Keep up the informative videos...Trash Pirate from the States.
I saw a video of some chinese guy selling these (supposedly) expensive furnaces for melting gold. He would measure up some gold in pellets to a pretty exact weight and then had these smallish molds that he would fill with the pellets and then put into the furnace. When the gold was melted he took it out and let it cool and it looked absolutely flawless. Not quite minted but almost. (I know it's an entire - and much more expensive setup) I suppose it's the even heat, where a pour the way you do it will "shock" the first few drops and whatnot and they cause the bar to become rough looking. Would you ever consider to try and put your small mold into the furnace with some measured-off copper and try and make a "clean" (unpoured) ingot?
Not only do people like a Copper Bar to keep but for many metal collectors its an investment also especially in the long run when prices go up , just like the stock market there is money to be made when the price is right , i call it smart investing .
There's always someone to criticize what you enjoy doing because you like doing it your way. Keep doing what you enjoy my friend. Great job. Ontario, Canada🍻
Hi Ben, I'm loving your videos. I just started pouring my own copper bars. It is super fun. I've been pouring in green-sand molds. I need to get some graphite molds like yours to make it easier :-)
Ben, you are truly absolutely amazing, you really really are. Brilliant! Magnificent pours and they polished up to an outstanding finish! I tip my hat to you, kind Sir!🎩
I know I'm super late but I just found you this is my first video and I have been looking for a really long melting stuff and I really enjoyed this video and I'm going to start catching up
I watched your other vids where you separate #1 copper, #2 copper, (what we call it -- "milberry", "burnt", etc., in your parlance), to take to the yard. When you make the ingots, does your melt include #2, or just bright #1. Seems to me, @ 1100*C, it should just go all-in. Yes?
So correct me if I'm wrong but this is my understanding. For a cheaper price, you can get factory made bars with a garunteed quality standard, all of which are pure copper and the same shape and size and weight, which I would assume People who like stacking bars would want. For some reason, I can't see a reason to buy a more expensive, hand poured bar without a quality garunteed, without a garunteed of PURE copper - there is no way of knowing what other metals are in there- and they are all different, which I would assume makes stacking hard, however I am not an ingot stacker, nor will I ever be, so I can't say. I will just say this it honestly doesn't make sense to me. Any constructive feedback will be appreciated. However I do understand that as a hobby it can be satisfying and nice to know that you created it. Either way, I love your content and you got a sub from me
@@organbuilder272 There are may copper alloy wires on the market what claims to be 100% pure copper, wire, unless you source it from high end hifi system or wire from very old equipment. you can tell when you are stripping the wires 100% pure copper wire is very soft.
@@leoncryp8182 copper wire can be soft or it can be hard, it all has to do with how it's treated. Copper will get hardened by working it, and you can anneal it by heating and quenching it. So you can have high tensile strength copper wire or very soft copper wire. As for purity, wire thats produced for household wiring should be 99.9% pure. That is wiring which complies to relevant standards. Wiring inside electronics I have no idea. No stamps or tests proving it regardless however.
Then they would need to be assayed to certify the purity. Otherwise he's just pulling the number out of his butt and you have no guarantee what it really is. You going to just take his word for it?
Hai It was a good and useful information. I have a question the container which you used is made of which material? Would be great full if you answer me. Thanks
Hi, I have become obsessed with these metal recycling and bar pouring videos on you tube and I have decided to get my first furnace and try to do some copper and aluminium pours. Are the Devil Forge furnaces a good product? I won't have any issue with access to scrap metal, would you recommend the 10kg furnace as a good sized starter kit? Finally what style and size of mounds do you find the most useful? I'm not interested in making them to sell, I just want to add to the collection which I have already purchased over the years from eBay. Thank you for your help Justin
Well, the top 2 scrappers I follow both use Devil Forges. If you go to BigStackD's channel he can get you 5% off a Devil Forge, and for the cost of them 5% is nothing to sneeze at. They look damn good, get up to high temperatures fast and never heard of any real problems with them though personally if I do bite the bullet and get into melting and casting my own metal, I'm going to make my own ghetto forge first. If I make money, THEN I'll look into buying a forge, and it will likely be a Devil Forge if I do.
At 8:09 you were talking about the time it takes to melt wire. There are chemicals that can be added to the crucible that reduce the melting point and reduce the oxidation. The bars will come out cleaner and shiner in a faster time. IF YOU KNOW WHAT CHEMICALS TO USE. Do you know which ones
The price increase would really only apply to the private market and not scrap yards. The price increase is from the cost of the foundry, fuel costs, mold costs, time of the individual that's doing the melting, but also the individually of each ingot with it's character.
FYI, I'd say unless there's a bunch of other flammable stuff nearby, just let fires burn themselves out. Much safer than potentially scattering molten copper all over concrete floor or yourself. Or potentially cracking the graphite mold.
who cares if it's hand poured or stamped or whatever. it's just a bar of copper. what are you gonna do with it? put it on top of your fireplace and look at it with a glass of whiskey in your hand? this stuff has practical uses...for instance i want to pour copper slabs and roll or mill them flat to use as a heat sink for welding thin metal. don't waste your time and money on a shiny doorstop, the scrap might be free but the gas to melt it isn't.
I noticed you did not use flux to float out the impurities. I do gold and silver castings, Flux is an absolutely necessity to get an accurate filling of the mold, with flux you don't get all the craters and disfigurement, very little finishing is required.
I have a foundry almost identical to yours i melted some copper today was not a fail but wasn’t how i would have like. How do you have your set up? I feel i need a regulator what should i buy?
If you have small motors with copper windings but the motors case is aluminum, can you melt the aluminum first by throwing in the entire motor, (these are small) and pour off the aluminum first and then melting the copper? These are too small to manually unwrap the windings but I have alot of them. ?
I guess at least the ones you have, @@laserfalcon. So the same for these not having permanent magnets, I guess you were saying. But then I have more questions: Do the motors work? If so, then why not just sell them as working motors instead of metal salvage? How did you get that many of these small (or smallish) motors? What sorts of things did they come out of?
@@HelloKittyFanMan. motors don't work, small mostly aluminum with small windings,. Not much metal to labor required to unwind. Not sure where they came from. To me they looked like maybe hard drive motors from what i remember. The guy had a lot of them, he has probably got rid of by now
I even came up with realistic fool's gold bars you might try. The following metals are iron pyrite; brass; copper; zinc; tin and aluminum. This is something I came up with this kind of suggestion.
You mention the mold was too cool, leaving pits on the bottom. Would keeping the molds over a suitable charcoal fire during the pour leave them smoother?
So, I'm absolutely on board in believing that these acquire a premium on Fleabay, or other such sites. Curious: have you considered creating a counter-stamp of some sort? Maybe with a logo, and information on the weight?
Thanks again Ben,every one of your videos is a inspiration for me.
30 years ago myself and one of my best friends used to make copper, brass and aluminum ingots for sale at a flea market. We would leave the ingot in the mold until the next one was to be poured to keep the molds hot and ready.
Wonder if that would be profitable nowadays
@@joshschneider9766 The price of copper was going way down in June but the price is starting to pick up again.
You are right every ingot is unique. I know you could make money but I can’t sell mine I love them too much . I poured a 10 Pound copper bar on my channel and my mate offered to buy it for $100 ,I told him noway not gonna happen ! $150🤔mmmmaybe . Great vid as always matey , Perfect pours mate . I love when copper pours like water it’s so much easier as you say to take it up to 100°C well over melting point to make it easier. After this video you’ll probably have 1000 watching your bars on eBay 👍🏻.
Yeah i've watched your video a few times, the 10lb bar I poured turned out great too, and yeah, not for sale :)
eWaste Ben oh yeah That’s right you did it a few months ago I remember now. I watch so many scrapping casting videos I can’t keep track of them all🤨😁
You've got a great channel, I like how your sticking to your guns and not drifting away from your casting vid's, your ticking along great, hope to see you do a special pour for your 10,000 sub's milestone
eWaste Ben yeah matey I’ll have to think about something for the 10k for sure . Keep up the great content mate , Aussie Aussie Aussie Oi Oi Oi 🍻🍻🍻🍻🍻
fr
Need to preheat your molds and use flux before you pour, your barswill look 100 times better. Also, flip them into water about 10-20 seconds after pouring, and there will be less ripples on top of the bar. If you watch closely after pouring, you can see the copper harden over. Then flip into water.
I love the pride and confidence you display in your explanation of your every craft from copper to gold my friend...
If you have a lot of scrap copper that's not in ingot form, then it's worth it to melt down. Not only for its "artisanal" value, but also to save on space. You're looking at a small fraction of the required space, to that of all the loose wire (especially when we're talking about higher gauge wires).
Right before you pour take a little handheld torch and heat the molds up and I think they will come out better they sure look cool when they're done don't they
In my experience I think if he poured faster out of the furnace and skimmed the top of the metal before pouring and the top of the ingots before they cool they’ll come out cleaner
Anthony Pagenkopf something like a mini torch or two sized flame with a medium thick sheet of metal should keep the heat in the molds you can heat the pans with a torch or another method. On a separate note your doing good it’s important to have flaws in your projects god knows mine do some people brush these comments off as hateful but while they should be taken with a grain of salt they’re still a great forum of knowledge
That's exactly how BigstackD does it and it really does turn out better than this.
I don't know why watching guys doing metal stuff like this gets me going like this but I know I had the evening of my life right now watching it. Keep it going.
I literally fell asleep watching this
Update on this lot, 3 weeks and 12 bars have sold, only two left from this batch, new batch coming soon when weather permits
Yes i have seen that. Congratulation for all your work !
These are good for sale to small foundries. Recycling facilities pay bottom dollar for cast metals. Novelty sales to the public fetch the highest price but the real value won't exceed spot as purity can't be confirmed.
Mesmerizing! I can’t
stop watching these videos about making bars for some reason. Keep them coming!
Right!!
Well done Ben, enjoy your hobby hope you do ok with the sales.
Why you watching him and not lil uzi vert
Haha, I’m down the rabbit hole.
@@davidbaker2859 sssx
Nice scaled attempt, not bad for start!! No doubt you already know what you can improve upon. Most important looks like you had fun doing it. Welcome to the metal melting party.
This never gets old no matter how many times I watch it!
Slm
Really enjoyed the Video. I collect fine copper bars and yours look truly artisan. Well done
Before I pour I always set my graphite mold inside my Foundry and let it get warm and then I use a grass burner to keep the mold hot I found it work better and I like the result
Wow, very clean setup and nice safety precautions! Great video as usual, keep up the good work!
Totally agree with what youre saying on the video its not scrap melted to scrap its the time the effort the gas costs etc and the end result of course id provably use a copper ingit as a fancy paper weight or door stop but knowing that it has artistic and financial value too. Well done by the way i enjoy watching the pours.
Bought the 1.44kg bar as soon as I saw it. I had to pause the vid. Great work, keep it up.
Thanks man, It's the nicest one for sure, choice pick.
@@eWasteBen please upload video every day.... I like you channel and always support you
Total Heat/Energy (Q) = M (mass in kg) * Cp(heat capacity in j/kgC) * DT (change in temperature degC)
Cp (water) = 4200 J/kgC
Cp (copper) = 385 J/kgC
If you wanted to cool down a 1kg copper bar from say 1000 degC to 25 deg C or room temperature, the total heat removed from the copper bar is Q = 1*385*(1000-25) = 375,375 Joules
The 375,375 Joules of energy removed from the copper bar is transferred to the water. Let's say the cold tap water is initially at 10 deg C and there is about 10 liters or 10 kg of water in the container.
What is the change or increase in water temperature when you drop 1kg of hot copper in the container?
375,375 = 10*4,200*(T-10)
so T = 8.9 deg C
At the most the water temperature should increase by about 9 deg C for each 1 kg copper bar you drop into 10 liters of water.
So two 1 kg copper bars initially at 1000 deg C should increase the water temperature by about 18 deg C.
Unless you had less than 10 liters of water in the container or your cold water was a lot warmer, I cant see the water getting that hot. (the other factor is that ingot weight was a lot higher than 1 kg)
it also has to due with the fact that math cant always solve everything or predict everything correctly, im sure there and many variables you are missing out and obviously you dont have the exact temperatures but still
@@Fisheiyy In cases like this, math absolutely can solve it accurately. The biggest factor the OP didn’t think about, is simply that hot fluid rises. It is certainly possible to have near boiling water at the top of a container, and significantly cooler at the bottom. If the water was well stirred, the temperature should be very close to the math.
some people get gold fever but i've got a thing for copper.
Your a Copper Head
It's pretty.
Yah, Copper!
And I myself has a special fond of Silver. :)
@@josephpaul0484 You have the silverbug. Check out the subreddit.
Hi Ben, just watching your video, you said it takes 25mins for solids to melt and 40mins for wire, I don't know if you have an issue with your furnace or regulator, but I use a home made forge and it takes 15mins for wire and 8mins for solids. For copper I use .12mpa and generally put solids in first then add wire when its melted, it takes seconds to melt wire
Very, very cool. Personally I love the look of copper. Currently in the process getting the equipment to copper plate my bicycle and then clear coat it.
the bars quenching sound quite satisfying
Love it!! Maybe if you put your molds into a pile of sand. The sand would help keep them hot. Far better than open air at least. Or maybe just surround them with fire bricks... ?
I seen a video where they were pouring gold into ingot molds,as soon as they completely filled the mold to the point it was over flowing the rim,just as the pouring was finished, another person used what looked like a large straight edged piece of stainless steel,doing a quick swipe across the top of mold,taking the overflow off and leaving a top surface that is real smooth.
The gold that was scraped off the top just fell into a hopper below. Maybe you might like to try that trick on copper .BTW,.check those bricks below the grate from time to time for cracking. Heat really does a number to that type of brick.
Thank you Ben , many of us wanted to see you pouring Kilo Koppa Bars !.. Also as an option , if you want to keep bars shiny you can apply a light coat Spray Varnish Ex = Everbrite Coatings
Yeah but with coating it you'll be adding impurities again. Maybe it is an idea to vacuum them in a bag with a vacuum device?
Greetings from Pennsylvania USA Like watching & keep up the videos!! I love when you go scraping and finding all the cool stuff. Hear in PA we have yard sales, but after the sale ends most of the left over stuff is set at the curb. and any one come pick out what you like. Also most towns have a one day a year you can set out your junk to the curb. Hang in there, and stay cool in every way!!!! Robin Jo
god that copper looks so beautiful when its being poured. love your vids
I keep watching this video over and over, I am so excited for my forge to arrive! Great video! and good on ya for mentioning safety gear!!
I’m in the same now 2 years later. Which forge did you go with and how do you like it?
Hey there, been a subscriber for a bit now. I just got my 1st furnace. Merry Christmas to me. You inspired me my friend. Can't wait to make some bars for gifts and hoard and sell. Love watching your videos you really go into detail and have helped me with my scrapping. Keep up the informative videos...Trash Pirate from the States.
Which forge did you get and how do you like it? I’m about to buy one now just not sure which to go with
I've been scrapping and casting copper/aluminum/brass/zinc/you-name-it ingots for a while now.
I love molten copper. There's nothing quite like it.
Before you do a pour place the molds on top around the opening of the forge just to heat them up in the mean time
"The smaller one is going to be the lighter one" Such profound wisdom.
Wow...how do you know? Far out!
I've never seen anyone challenge a fire to a duel before.
please give me timestamp xD
Have you ever thought of pressing the copper in hydrolic press before melting? May speed up melt
You are correct.
A steel mold and a hand hydraulic jack would work just fine for pressing.
Have you considered using a hydraulic press to compress the wire into small dense pieces. Might help speed up the melting and reduce gas usage
Well done Ben. This is an excellent skill to master, very smart.
I saw a video of some chinese guy selling these (supposedly) expensive furnaces for melting gold. He would measure up some gold in pellets to a pretty exact weight and then had these smallish molds that he would fill with the pellets and then put into the furnace.
When the gold was melted he took it out and let it cool and it looked absolutely flawless. Not quite minted but almost. (I know it's an entire - and much more expensive setup)
I suppose it's the even heat, where a pour the way you do it will "shock" the first few drops and whatnot and they cause the bar to become rough looking.
Would you ever consider to try and put your small mold into the furnace with some measured-off copper and try and make a "clean" (unpoured) ingot?
Different material. Cant work that way
Not only do people like a Copper Bar to keep but for many metal collectors its an investment also especially in the long run when prices go up , just like the stock market there is money to be made when the price is right , i call it smart investing .
another cool vid Ben, thanks. Can't wait till I get around to pouring.
There's always someone to criticize what you enjoy doing because you like doing it your way. Keep doing what you enjoy my friend. Great job. Ontario, Canada🍻
How many pours from a full tank of gas Ben ?
I've been watching your channel for a while but this is the first casting one.
Very nice.
Hi Ben, I'm loving your videos. I just started pouring my own copper bars. It is super fun. I've been pouring in green-sand molds. I need to get some graphite molds like yours to make it easier :-)
How did you start? and Can you tell me how much totally paid for now?
Anybody know where to get molds ?? Obviously larger sized ones .
I just recently got in to pouring copper and other metals. And Electronica scrapping. When you pour your copper. How do you make it look so good?
Where can you get moulds that say copper on it and their weight? Like 1 oz fin copper for example
keep in mind folks alot of scap yards will turn down already smelted alloy as they would too pay higher and dont know the quality
Ways around that
Ben, you are truly absolutely amazing, you really really are. Brilliant! Magnificent pours and they polished up to an outstanding finish! I tip my hat to you, kind Sir!🎩
If you wax your bars with car wax would it stay shiny for a lot longer? Or are they better solution to stop the oxidation
Great info and advice. I just bought the 10kg Devil forge. New sub, greetings from Switzerland
I know I'm super late but I just found you this is my first video and I have been looking for a really long melting stuff and I really enjoyed this video and I'm going to start catching up
Pretty nice clean ingot moulding you had made
Love this kind of videos, the longer the better
I watched your other vids where you separate #1 copper, #2 copper, (what we call it -- "milberry", "burnt", etc., in your parlance), to take to the yard. When you make the ingots, does your melt include #2, or just bright #1. Seems to me, @ 1100*C, it should just go all-in. Yes?
Yes it can all go in, 1200*C
They look absolutely fabulous!😃👍
So correct me if I'm wrong but this is my understanding. For a cheaper price, you can get factory made bars with a garunteed quality standard, all of which are pure copper and the same shape and size and weight, which I would assume People who like stacking bars would want. For some reason, I can't see a reason to buy a more expensive, hand poured bar without a quality garunteed, without a garunteed of PURE copper - there is no way of knowing what other metals are in there- and they are all different, which I would assume makes stacking hard, however I am not an ingot stacker, nor will I ever be, so I can't say. I will just say this it honestly doesn't make sense to me. Any constructive feedback will be appreciated. However I do understand that as a hobby it can be satisfying and nice to know that you created it.
Either way, I love your content and you got a sub from me
Listen carefully - Pure Copper Wire. Nothing but Pure Copper Wire.
@@organbuilder272 There are may copper alloy wires on the market what claims to be 100% pure copper, wire, unless you source it from high end hifi system or wire from very old equipment. you can tell when you are stripping the wires 100% pure copper wire is very soft.
@@leoncryp8182 copper wire can be soft or it can be hard, it all has to do with how it's treated. Copper will get hardened by working it, and you can anneal it by heating and quenching it. So you can have high tensile strength copper wire or very soft copper wire.
As for purity, wire thats produced for household wiring should be 99.9% pure. That is wiring which complies to relevant standards. Wiring inside electronics I have no idea.
No stamps or tests proving it regardless however.
Leon Cryp
Why are your videos so perfect
These are the kinda videos you watch at 3AM when your bored. Interesting stuff lol
12am**
3:20am
Tell me why it’s 3 am rn and I’m stuck watching these types of vids... 🤣🤣
@@aaronenriquez296 6
@@aaronenriquez296 and
You got to preheat your molds to prevent the popping when you pour
Try mixing white vinegar and salt and placing the ingots in the mix. Should make them bright. Mix 1 cup vinegar to 1/8 cup salt.
The main thing-do not rush! Speed often leads to serious burns! Can you do the same with brass and aluminum?
Awesome pour good Sir! Love em!
you should stamp ur bars with weight, purity and makers mark.
Then they would need to be assayed to certify the purity. Otherwise he's just pulling the number out of his butt and you have no guarantee what it really is. You going to just take his word for it?
@@loctite222ms: OK, well then just the weight or/and mass and the maker's mark.
Have seen multiple metal pours lay the molds on top of the furnace vent then take them off and they turn out good bars.
Hai
It was a good and useful information. I have a question the container which you used is made of which material?
Would be great full if you answer me.
Thanks
Hi which container you mean? The one he is pouring metal in? Its graphite
Hi, I have become obsessed with these metal recycling and bar pouring videos on you tube and I have decided to get my first furnace and try to do some copper and aluminium pours. Are the Devil Forge furnaces a good product? I won't have any issue with access to scrap metal, would you recommend the 10kg furnace as a good sized starter kit? Finally what style and size of mounds do you find the most useful? I'm not interested in making them to sell, I just want to add to the collection which I have already purchased over the years from eBay.
Thank you for your help
Justin
Well, the top 2 scrappers I follow both use Devil Forges. If you go to BigStackD's channel he can get you 5% off a Devil Forge, and for the cost of them 5% is nothing to sneeze at. They look damn good, get up to high temperatures fast and never heard of any real problems with them though personally if I do bite the bullet and get into melting and casting my own metal, I'm going to make my own ghetto forge first. If I make money, THEN I'll look into buying a forge, and it will likely be a Devil Forge if I do.
Two really good pours around 30 min’s into the vid 👍
I have a major stock pile of bar copper wire. Should I hang on to it for a few years or what.
At 8:09 you were talking about the time it takes to melt wire. There are chemicals that can be added to the crucible that reduce the melting point and reduce the oxidation. The bars will come out cleaner and shiner in a faster time. IF YOU KNOW WHAT CHEMICALS TO USE. Do you know which ones
Strangly mesmerizing watching your video .
Like working with lava. Thanks for posting.
I am a Turk from Germany and love your videos,
thanks for that. :)
Question please Ben, how and why would the price increase by 6 ( around) times it’s value by making those bars? Thank you
The price increase would really only apply to the private market and not scrap yards. The price increase is from the cost of the foundry, fuel costs, mold costs, time of the individual that's doing the melting, but also the individually of each ingot with it's character.
FYI, I'd say unless there's a bunch of other flammable stuff nearby, just let fires burn themselves out. Much safer than potentially scattering molten copper all over concrete floor or yourself. Or potentially cracking the graphite mold.
who cares if it's hand poured or stamped or whatever. it's just a bar of copper. what are you gonna do with it? put it on top of your fireplace and look at it with a glass of whiskey in your hand? this stuff has practical uses...for instance i want to pour copper slabs and roll or mill them flat to use as a heat sink for welding thin metal. don't waste your time and money on a shiny doorstop, the scrap might be free but the gas to melt it isn't.
„You can’t do it on a camp stove“ 😂🤣 best explanation ever 😅
Lol
Beautiful bars thanks for sharing
Aren't they worth more with machining smooth & stamping? Wouldn't they be smoother without water cooling?
Love to watch this one. There's something about fire and molten metals that bring the kid out in me!!
Shane i just saw your comment on BigstackD! What a coincidence!
Have a look at some old thermometers and you'll see some molten metal at average room-temperature!
@@HelloKittyFanMan. Yes. Called mercury. Not healthy if entered the body.
Ben try using a charcoal grill to keep your molds nice and hot.
I noticed you did not use flux to float out the impurities. I do gold and silver castings, Flux is an absolutely necessity to get an accurate filling of the mold, with flux you don't get all the craters and disfigurement, very little finishing is required.
hello from Greece!!how much cost this machine with the pot inside?? thanks a lot!!
you're living the dream! wish i had the equipment and copper to do that!
try a little rouge and polishing wheel to get a mirror like shine. clear lacquer keep it shiny forever
I have a foundry almost identical to yours i melted some copper today was not a fail but wasn’t how i would have like. How do you have your set up? I feel i need a regulator what should i buy?
Would it help to sit a carbon mold on top of a pour so it won't wrinkle?? And itll heat up the mold for the next pour.
What size crucible are you using in the video? It looks like a 5 kg or bigger. Nice pours...
Any idea how to remove lead out of the crucible before pouring?
I wonder how much the propane cost eats into the income of selling the ingots.
If you have small motors with copper windings but the motors case is aluminum, can you melt the aluminum first by throwing in the entire motor, (these are small) and pour off the aluminum first and then melting the copper? These are too small to manually unwrap the windings but I have alot of them. ?
Did you forget about something called "magnets" and "brushes" (for some of them)? Also, only do this with motors that don't work.
@@HelloKittyFanMan. no brushes in motors, was just a question I've been asked but never have tried
I guess at least the ones you have, @@laserfalcon. So the same for these not having permanent magnets, I guess you were saying. But then I have more questions: Do the motors work? If so, then why not just sell them as working motors instead of metal salvage? How did you get that many of these small (or smallish) motors? What sorts of things did they come out of?
@@HelloKittyFanMan. motors don't work, small mostly aluminum with small windings,. Not much metal to labor required to unwind.
Not sure where they came from. To me they looked like maybe hard drive motors from what i remember. The guy had a lot of them, he has probably got rid of by now
An idea.. when u line up 3 containers to pour into..leave the middle for last and it should get a better pour...correct
all is fine and dandy to sell for profit, but finding scrap copper around my neck of the woods makes it work out to about $.05 usd an hour
I even came up with realistic fool's gold bars you might try. The following metals are iron pyrite; brass; copper; zinc; tin and aluminum. This is something I came up with this kind of suggestion.
having a HOT mold and cooling slowly is XERY important to having a smooth sided ingot
You mention the mold was too cool, leaving pits on the bottom. Would keeping the molds over a suitable charcoal fire during the pour leave them smoother?
I bet it would be easier to judge your mass by level of the molds instead by the crucible.
*Little hint, use wire wheel in reverse as much as forward and never push down too hard. Throw them away when the bounce like the one in this video*
We get more at a scrap yard for the ignots compared to just the wire well worth melting it for scrap here
Don't take the ingots out of the mold until your ready to pour the next ones.
So, I'm absolutely on board in believing that these acquire a premium on Fleabay, or other such sites. Curious: have you considered creating a counter-stamp of some sort? Maybe with a logo, and information on the weight?
do you need to add flux or something to absorb any non copper added to the wire?