The Tesla Charger does not sense what size breaker it is attached to. This is supposed to be specified in the wireless commissioning as described in the Tesla installation manual.. Some errors I saw: 1.) Tesla shows specific wire routing up and over and into the top of the terminals with a wire tie strain relief. Yours will work but not as the device manufacturer specifies. 2.) Did not see you torque the wires to factory spec nor tighten, back off, and retighten so that isn't a very good connection. 3.) The breakers also have a torque setting and you didn't use that or the tighten/loosen/retighten trick for stranded conductors. 4.) A nit but the labeling on the breaker is not very professional. 5.) Finally, the unit does need to be commissioned with a phone with the wireless interface to the correct size breaker unless you use the 60 Amp factory pre-set. You used a 50 Amp breaker and the unit (without commissioning ) expects a 60 Amp breaker and will charge to 48 Amps--borderline dangerous and probably will nuisance trip on the first charge since 48A continuous is so close to 50 Amps. At any rate, a 50 Amp breaker should only carry 40 Amp continuous like in car charging. This is all covered in the Tesla Gen 3 installation manual. 6.) Not required but good practice is to use crimps on the end of these large conductors and then tighten to specified torque. Sorry, I wouldn't let you install my EVSE.
Actually it does, I’ve wired 30-60amp installs and on startup the green lights on the screens display how many amps are detected on full load. On 60amp all green lights are lit 50 one less and so forth. Whenever you specify what amperage you are using over wifi is how much you want to use. If you have a 60amp breaker but only want to move 30amps through the charger you can change it on wifi. Hopefully this makes sense.
@@edgarestrada1146 The issue is when you have hooked the unit up with a smaller breaker and wire. The car will assume the unit is capable of whatever level the EVSE is provisioned to. How does the charger unit know what size wires you used unless it overheats on smaller ones. Proper Ampacity is determined by the current carrying ability of the wire gauge and its length. The charger needs to know (from provisioning) that the wire and breaker are adequate for the provisioned ampacity. Many installations have less than the maximum breaker due to the loading of the service box. Once you have properly provisioned the unit for wire gauge and breaker, then the lights tell you the level it normally provides.
I used 60 amp breaker, 6 gauge THHN cable and 8 gauge copper wire (for ground), 3/4 PVC conduit to run a 45 foot long cable. I see a lot of the amature in RUclips (I am also an amature) use 6/2 NM cable with 50 amp breaker. I know it works because I see my friends also does it, but it shouldn't meet the code because 48A * 1.2 = 60A, so we should use a 60A breaker with wires that can carry 60A or more. 6/2 NM only can carry up to 55A. I also notice the licenses electrician will usually won't comment, because they charge $850 to $$$$$ for this kind of work.
Great Job and thank you. Please take great care when terminating the conductors, please tighten loosen and retighten, preferably torqued to spec., but very tight. Connections are often where the heat develops from resistance due to poor connection, as heat increases so does resistance and this will cause a run away that may not trip some breakers and can cause a fire. Electric cars pull a constant load and need solid installations, I like what you did just be careful my friend.
Yep. If your lucky enough to have the panel right on the other side. I had a customer that needed one installed but his panel was on the other side of the house. Was gonna cost $2000 just for materials.
Two code violations ( at least in my area ).NEC states that you MUST seal all cable entries when there is a temperature difference ( prevents condensation ) & type NM & NM-B are never approved for damp or wet location. Local inspector told us we have to use UF cable every time to feed an exterior wall luminare or enter an outdoor panels. Have to cover you butt from all the scum bag ambulance chasers. How long do your wood zip bits stay sharp drilling thru sheetrock ? Like to use a 5/8" diameter masonry bits to drill holes for 1/4" toggle bolts.
Hope that you have a lot of liability insurance. Has been a NEC code requirement for at least last 8 years requiring EVERY e!ectrical terminal to only be tightened with a torque driver or torque wrench set to manufactures specs. Was told at several continuing education classes that over tightening is just as dangerous of under tightening connections. Only exception is double headed bolts that have outer head break off when proper torque is reached.We have to wear proper approved PPE when working in an energised panel including a tinted face shield,, rubber gloves that are tested every 6 months & date stamped, long sleeve PPE shirt.
Just curious, since going through the troubke of doing all that, why didn't you go with a 60 amp breaker and get a higher charge rate ( of course cant use the 6-3 romex, but a short nipple is jyst as easy)
Very nice video and good explanation of 6-3 wire. In case it wasn’t mentioned the reason to use 6-3 even on hardwire installs is in case you want to take your EVSE off later and replace with a NEMA 14-50 socket.
Maybe you didn't show it, but those wires need to be torqued to the required inch pounds. Actually a good idea to loosen those screws and re-tighten them before torquing. That will seat the strands of wire better, and will make a solid connection. Nice job of explaining as you went.
@@Wierdy1024 I'm an electrician for over 30 years and this torquing requirement became code 5-6 years ago. Do you seriously think I dont know how to tighten down lugs and/ or terminals properly? GTFO here.
From watching and reading up on this Tesla Wall Connector prior, see folks caught most issues with this install which are ehco’d in many of the RUclips How To’s. SUCH as wire should be rated for 60amps and 90 degrees and not using torque wrench within the housing as per instructions. One other point that comes up when running the wire through a wall is need (by code) for a conduit. This may vary state to state. While this was a very short wall run, still curious when a flexible conduit is needed, to meet code, or if it’s just adding a bit more safety to this install long term. That said you did a lot right BlueWire and really seem comfortable with this, 👍
this install really scared me! I work on live residential all the time but this guy is way too brave IMHO! to your comment regarding "code" and the need for a conduit, NO. Running any Romex type conductor withing the wall cavity, with no reasonable signs of wear or damage risk to conductors, is totally ok per the NEC. cheers!
I feel more confident to do it myself. Thanks for your helpful video. But one thing I concern is the position of the red wire and black wire is matter?
Thanks for the vid. So the toggle bolts don't go through the dry wall to the other side, correct? They go in the first layer of drywall, but not the second?
I can see a couple things wrong here first you never use a regular screw driver in a breaker panel you use an insulated screw driver to prevent shorts and second you will notice the white wire the neutral wire that is connected to the buss bar in the breaker panel is capped off in the charger so it is doing nothing the correct way to wire it is in the charger the white wire should have been connected where the bare copper wire was connected and the bare copper wire should not of been used. The bare copper wire is not capable of carrying the current and could cause a fire.
I believe the wires are supposed to wrap up the right side and down from the top into the connections. Any reason someone couldn’t just use 6/2 wire? Seems like a waste. I need to run about 50’ and the cost difference is pretty significant.
I might need to read up on code requirements for connecting to the back of the panel, but I don't think there is a code against it. And the same for running the wires up and back down. I do agree the cost difference between 6/2 and 6/3 is significant, the client wanted to future proof the installation, it can be converted to a 50 amp RV outlet which would utilize the neutral.
@@bluewireelectric6445 There is no code requirement, but that's not how it's shown in the manual for a reason. The charger has a temperature sensor to read the wire temperature, also they provide a zip tie loop for proper wire retention.
I also purchased 6-3, mostly because it was readily available at local store, while 6-2 was not. Having said that, I'm using the white as ground lead and cutting off the bare gnd lead. Seems to me the larger ga wire for gnd is better, even if not truly needed. White lead wrapped in green tape to avoid confusion.
It's very dangerous to use a drill that close to the live terminals in the panel. Should have shut the entire panel down. Also, the white wire now becomes the ground and the bare copper is just capped off. You also need a torque screw driver to make the connections correctly.
This guy love to use his drill as an electrician myself I dont think this is the way to do it, no control when driving al screws with the drill. Doesnt look profesional to me.
I enjoyed your video. Maybe I missed it but why did you use 50a circuit instead of a 60a? Was 50a the max for the panel? I am using 60a which charges a bit faster since it is using 48a (60a) instead of 40a (50). And 48a is max for most Tesla's.
He used 6/3 Romex which is rated at 55 amps, not 60 amps like THHN wire in conduit would have. So he did the right thing by pairing up with 50 amp breaker.
Instead of using 6/3 with ground, what can’t you just use 6/2 with ground. The natural line in 6/3 is useless. It saves you $62 by using 6/2. In addition, my main panel is in the basement which is 40+ feet from the wall charger. I need to open some dry wall and make 2 90 degree turns. The less resistance from 6/2, the easier to pull the line.
George, you are correct you can just use 6/2 cable and it would be easier to pull through conduit with one less wire. The neutral was included future use if needed. But you are right 6/2 is less expensive and easier to route.
6awg 60c NM-B wire is not rated for 60 amps anyways. It's only rated for 55amps. You should be using 4awg, but since they don't sell 4/2, you have to buy 4/3 wire. Or you can use 6/2 THHN wire or 6/2 MC wire which have a higher temperature rating. Just make sure you get a 75c rated breaker to match.
N K this response is for you my friend, that Tesla will pull maybe 37amps these is absolutely no need for 4/2 and I’m still not sure why nobody caught the Homeline Breaker in a Eaton / Cutler Hammer Panel other then that Good Work BlueWire Electric
@@brandoncampbell7911 You make the assumption that we live in a perfect world. In a perfect world, nothing every breaks and everything works according to plan. However, we don't live in a perfect world and devices can fail. If the circuit board of the charger has a fault or internal short, then it's the job of the breaker in the panel to cut off before the wire heats up and melts. This is why THHN wire and MC wire are fine with 6/2 at 60 amps, because the insulation has a higher temperature rating. But NM-B wire has a lower 60c temperature rating. It's possible to melt before the breaker trips. Granted we're only talking a 5 amp difference in the rating. So it's not likely to melt that badly before the breaker trips. It'll heat up, beyond 60c for a second, but not likely melt. The NEC likely puts a little headroom into their ratings. So like I said, he's probably fine, but it's not to code.
thank you so much for this video, is it ok to use this wire for under ground, I have my electrical panel 75 ft away from where I want to install my charger and I need to go under ground
WOW - A lot of keyboard jockeys on here complaining about this, that, the other..... I got an idea - all you guys (that have the proper credentials) make vids on how --- YOU --- would do this job and let's see who keyboards' up to *itch about your work. Unreal. Thanks for posting the vid here.
Bro, if you're gonna post a video about any electrical installation, then at least do it properly. He never said he shut the main breaker, he drilled through the panel, left the metal shavings in there. Never torqued connection per breaker/wall charger specs. Used a 50amp breaker on a wall charger that can go up to 48 amps. Imagine how dangerous that is if an unexperienced person tries to do the same?
Is it not safe per code standards to combine breaker tandem afci breaker? There’s no more space in my circuit panel, however, after calling around most Electric companies recommended installing a sub panel and some said that was not needed. What are your thoughts.
AFCI is now code standard in order to detect "sparking" in circuits that may cause fires. I would say it's ok to install a tandem AFCI breaker to create space in your panel as long as the circuit breaker is manufactured for the application and is sized properly to the existing wire gauge. But It wouldn't be a bad idea to add a sub-panel for more space. It would also help prevent any overheating that might occur in the main panel caused by adding more circuit breakers. Hope this helps Thank you
@@kurpal8904 It depends, for example, if the main breaker is 100 amps and the existing load is, let's say 80 amps, and you add a sub panel and load it up to 30 amps with extra circuits, the 100 amp main breaker would still trip. Anything added under a main breaker will essentially add up to so many amps. If you add more than rating of the main breaker, it will trip
A decent installation BUT not 100% correct and does not meet Tesla pro installer specifications. You didn't read the instructions. Must torque the connectors to specifications in the wire box and at the breaker using a torque screwdriver. Moreover you didn't follow the wire path in the wire box correctly and didn't use the included zip tie to make sure the wire does not interfere with the temperature sensor. You also are supposed to use washers with rubber or neoprene layer (they include then with the mounting screws) for waterproof installation and inside garage is considered a wet location. I know some of this is minor but torque to spec is NOT minor for continuous loads like car charging. Thankfully you used a 50 amp breaker for #6 Romex and did not make the mistake of 60 amp breaker with it (which would be OK if THHN wires in conduit). Hopefully you set up the Wall Connector for the 50 amp breaker. Also, why not just use the neutral for the ground and mark it with green tape and not use bare ground? You did a neat job though, but it would fail inspection in the Tesla One app requirements.
@@LoganJonesJ lol yeah I know it “fits” and I’ve done it before as well but I try not to. Maybe they didn’t have an Eaton breaker or something and he had to get the job done that day and maybe he went back and changed the square d out for an Eaton.
DONT please DONT do this, 1st of all dont use romex 6-3 use thhn / thwn (90C) or better, 6-3 romex is not sufficient for continuous loads like ev charging, torque your connections on the evse and the breaker (2 or 3 times after a wiggle) and always use the 1.25* rule when calculating loads over 2-3 hours, use mechanical connection breakers (knife) on a different sub panel the bus bar on that panel, breakers like the ones here (pop in) will share heating on other breakers and will melt before popping, make shure to show when you disconnect the main braker when working on a panel, and so, so many more ... sorry i couldnt make it to the end of the video, maybe u did or correct some of this things
Modern NM-B is 90 degree rated. Terminations at the breaker should be 75 degree. 75 column #6 is rated for 65amp. 50a load continuous @125% = 62.5a. Should be good to go.
After some research, looks like you're right. The nm sheathing is 90 degree. The conductors are 60 degree, should be #4 NM-B or #6 thhn. MC might have actually been a good solution for this, shits expensive though. But better than a lawsuit. Good on you. 👊
@@DavidTPhan NEC defines loads that can run over 3 hours, as continuous loads. Also some articles stating car charges are considered continuous loads. Continuous loads should be calculated at 125%. So a 50a load is actually 62.5a load.
No such thing anymore as a neutral. Its the grounded conductor and NEVER IS & NEVER WILL BE A RETURN WIRE! On all two wire circuits it draws same amount of current as the energised wire. On a common 120/240 volt three wire circuit the white grounded conductor draws the difference of the two energised wires Example if say the black wire was drawing 15 amps and the red wire 10 Amos then the white wire would only carry 5 amps.
Sad that people don’t know how to do this level of electrical , which is fairly simple, they pay people to do it for them and pay usually upwards of 500 dollars to have someone do it borderline wrong!!. The Tesla Wall charger DOES NOT SENSE the AMPERAGE its connected to. But people trust others to be knowledgeable where they are not and all it proves is human error , knowledge and pride in work aren’t always present in all things…So one MUST educate themselves to the theory at minimum so that you can pay a person for the physical labor skill but U NEED to have a knowledge of the theory of the task so you can correct and even police what you are paying for. But just allowing someone to charge you and also make mistakes,….IS INSANE!! People it’s time to actually Learn how to actually DOOOOOOO Something besides send emails, go to meetings and make slides. Too many MBA’s in the world and slide deck creators….So this guy can come in and make mistakes with your voltage on your Tesla charger and u Still pAY full price.
I think you did a wrong wire connection. The wires going to charger terminal should be looped upwards and then into the terminal as manufacturing instruction.
You are correct. Upside down, not torqued, insufficient breaker size for 48 amp continuous load, missing conduit, Romex 6-3 instead of recommended THHN. Not mounted into stud. This is why companies like Qmerit exist.
You made it easy Sam
The Tesla Charger does not sense what size breaker it is attached to. This is supposed to be specified in the wireless commissioning as described in the Tesla installation manual.. Some errors I saw: 1.) Tesla shows specific wire routing up and over and into the top of the terminals with a wire tie strain relief. Yours will work but not as the device manufacturer specifies. 2.) Did not see you torque the wires to factory spec nor tighten, back off, and retighten so that isn't a very good connection. 3.) The breakers also have a torque setting and you didn't use that or the tighten/loosen/retighten trick for stranded conductors. 4.) A nit but the labeling on the breaker is not very professional. 5.) Finally, the unit does need to be commissioned with a phone with the wireless interface to the correct size breaker unless you use the 60 Amp factory pre-set. You used a 50 Amp breaker and the unit (without commissioning ) expects a 60 Amp breaker and will charge to 48 Amps--borderline dangerous and probably will nuisance trip on the first charge since 48A continuous is so close to 50 Amps. At any rate, a 50 Amp breaker should only carry 40 Amp continuous like in car charging. This is all covered in the Tesla Gen 3 installation manual. 6.) Not required but good practice is to use crimps on the end of these large conductors and then tighten to specified torque. Sorry, I wouldn't let you install my EVSE.
Actually it does, I’ve wired 30-60amp installs and on startup the green lights on the screens display how many amps are detected on full load. On 60amp all green lights are lit 50 one less and so forth. Whenever you specify what amperage you are using over wifi is how much you want to use. If you have a 60amp breaker but only want to move 30amps through the charger you can change it on wifi. Hopefully this makes sense.
That’s a long ass comment😮
@@edgarestrada1146 The issue is when you have hooked the unit up with a smaller breaker and wire. The car will assume the unit is capable of whatever level the EVSE is provisioned to. How does the charger unit know what size wires you used unless it overheats on smaller ones. Proper Ampacity is determined by the current carrying ability of the wire gauge and its length. The charger needs to know (from provisioning) that the wire and breaker are adequate for the provisioned ampacity. Many installations have less than the maximum breaker due to the loading of the service box. Once you have properly provisioned the unit for wire gauge and breaker, then the lights tell you the level it normally provides.
@@caring-assoul_ Doing it wrong can be quickly done. Doing it right often takes more care.
@@brianbeasley7270 🤣 whatever you say dude just stay the heck away from my installs.
I used 60 amp breaker, 6 gauge THHN cable and 8 gauge copper wire (for ground), 3/4 PVC conduit to run a 45 foot long cable. I see a lot of the amature in RUclips (I am also an amature) use 6/2 NM cable with 50 amp breaker. I know it works because I see my friends also does it, but it shouldn't meet the code because 48A * 1.2 = 60A, so we should use a 60A breaker with wires that can carry 60A or more. 6/2 NM only can carry up to 55A.
I also notice the licenses electrician will usually won't comment, because they charge $850 to $$$$$ for this kind of work.
6/2 nm meets code when paired with a 50 amp breaker. Just gotta make sure to set the charger to 50 amp breaker so the max charging current is 40 amps.
This is the most detailed video i watched for wall connector
I liked the way you’re teaching 👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Great Job and thank you. Please take great care when terminating the conductors, please tighten loosen and retighten, preferably torqued to spec., but very tight. Connections are often where the heat develops from resistance due to poor connection, as heat increases so does resistance and this will cause a run away that may not trip some breakers and can cause a fire. Electric cars pull a constant load and need solid installations, I like what you did just be careful my friend.
Yep. If your lucky enough to have the panel right on the other side. I had a customer that needed one installed but his panel was on the other side of the house. Was gonna cost $2000 just for materials.
Two code violations ( at least in my area ).NEC states that you MUST seal all cable entries when there is a temperature difference ( prevents condensation ) & type NM & NM-B are never approved for damp or wet location. Local inspector told us we have to use UF cable every time to feed an exterior wall luminare or enter an outdoor panels. Have to cover you butt from all the scum bag ambulance chasers. How long do your wood zip bits stay sharp drilling thru sheetrock ? Like to use a 5/8" diameter masonry bits to drill holes for 1/4" toggle bolts.
Yeah I thought it was odd that he just used standard Romex for this but didn't even grommet the exit from the panel at all.
hands down best video with clear explanation
No mention of turning off the main breaker? Also, the input side of main breaker is still hot at 240 VAC. Perhaps some words of caution.
Hope that you have a lot of liability insurance. Has been a NEC code requirement for at least last 8 years requiring EVERY e!ectrical terminal to only be tightened with a torque driver or torque wrench set to manufactures specs. Was told at several continuing education classes that over tightening is just as dangerous of under tightening connections. Only exception is double headed bolts that have outer head break off when proper torque is reached.We have to wear proper approved PPE when working in an energised panel including a tinted face shield,, rubber gloves that are tested every 6 months & date stamped, long sleeve PPE shirt.
Just curious, since going through the troubke of doing all that, why didn't you go with a 60 amp breaker and get a higher charge rate ( of course cant use the 6-3 romex, but a short nipple is jyst as easy)
Now THIS is a DYI video!! Awesome!!
Very nice video and good explanation of 6-3 wire. In case it wasn’t mentioned the reason to use 6-3 even on hardwire installs is in case you want to take your EVSE off later and replace with a NEMA 14-50 socket.
make sure you use a good quality socket for continuous loads, hubbel or better, not that 15 usd ones, and check on it every 6 months
Bryant is a good option to the Hubbell. Same company and much cheaper in price.
You’d need to change the breaker to a gfci in order to use a receptacle.
@@franciscocj Good tip if you are installing a socket. This is hard wired with no socket / plug.
They don’t make 6-2 romex, so you have to buy 6-3. Doubt the purpose was so it can be fitted with a 14-50 receptacle in the future.
Very well done video. Loved the step-by-step. Thanks!
I noticed that you didn’t torque the connections on camera.
Did you end up torquing them after? Or in between shots?
It’s so easy to do this I can’t believe how much people are charging
Nice work. Are there any torque specs for the Tesla chargers?
Maybe you didn't show it, but those wires need to be torqued to the required inch pounds. Actually a good idea to loosen those screws and re-tighten them before torquing. That will seat the strands of wire better, and will make a solid connection. Nice job of explaining as you went.
Incorrectly torqued wires are a major source of fires.
@@Wierdy1024 I'm an electrician for over 30 years and this torquing requirement became code 5-6 years ago. Do you seriously think I dont know how to tighten down lugs and/ or terminals properly? GTFO here.
@@Wierdy1024 LOL, go ahead and start sighting ALL THOSE news article and videos showing that
@@teslatim78citing
Great job! So careful! So efficient! A great attitude ensures professional finish. One point: should wire screws be torqued?
Thank you!
And yes they should be torqued to 50 lbf . in per Tesla wall connector installation manual.
This came out beautifully. Great work BlueWire 🙌
From watching and reading up on this Tesla Wall Connector prior, see folks caught most issues with this install which are ehco’d in many of the RUclips How To’s. SUCH as wire should be rated for 60amps and 90 degrees and not using torque wrench within the housing as per instructions.
One other point that comes up when running the wire through a wall is need (by code) for a conduit. This may vary state to state.
While this was a very short wall run, still curious when a flexible conduit is needed, to meet code, or if it’s just adding a bit more safety to this install long term.
That said you did a lot right BlueWire and really seem comfortable with this, 👍
this install really scared me! I work on live residential all the time but this guy is way too brave IMHO! to your comment regarding "code" and the need for a conduit, NO. Running any Romex type conductor withing the wall cavity, with no reasonable signs of wear or damage risk to conductors, is totally ok per the NEC. cheers!
If using THNN wire, then it needs a race way.
Thanks for the great video. I’m curious why you connected the neutral if you’re not using it and put a blue wing nut on the charger side. Thanks!!
Me to.
You didn’t use white wire inside of charger but connect to ground bar outside panel.
Does it possible to install 3 wire?
Just came across this!Nice work man!Very professional🙌🏼
#TeamBluewire
Why did he land the neutral wire on the panel if it’s just capped off at the wall charger ?
I feel more confident to do it myself. Thanks for your helpful video. But one thing I concern is the position of the red wire and black wire is matter?
and... DONE! exactly the way you did 😊
Thanks for the vid. So the toggle bolts don't go through the dry wall to the other side, correct? They go in the first layer of drywall, but not the second?
I think some HOAs require an OK from them before a hole is drilled through the exterior wall of the building.
Your installing a Square D C/B on a Eaton Load Center Wow just wow.
I can see a couple things wrong here first you never use a regular screw driver in a breaker panel you use an insulated screw driver to prevent shorts and second you will notice the white wire the neutral wire that is connected to the buss bar in the breaker panel is capped off in the charger so it is doing nothing the correct way to wire it is in the charger the white wire should have been connected where the bare copper wire was connected and the bare copper wire should not of been used. The bare copper wire is not capable of carrying the current and could cause a fire.
Isn’t it just a ground? I thought he said it’s 240. No neutral
No. No neutral is required here. It’s just a ground in case there’s a short so the breaker will trip.
You have literally no idea what you're talking about.
@@alphasaiyan5760 the standard in this application is #10ground as well. That's #12. 6-2 would suffice
I believe the wires are supposed to wrap up the right side and down from the top into the connections. Any reason someone couldn’t just use 6/2 wire? Seems like a waste. I need to run about 50’ and the cost difference is pretty significant.
I might need to read up on code requirements for connecting to the back of the panel, but I don't think there is a code against it. And the same for running the wires up and back down. I do agree the cost difference between 6/2 and 6/3 is significant, the client wanted to future proof the installation, it can be converted to a 50 amp RV outlet which would utilize the neutral.
@@bluewireelectric6445 There is no code requirement, but that's not how it's shown in the manual for a reason. The charger has a temperature sensor to read the wire temperature, also they provide a zip tie loop for proper wire retention.
In my opinion, you bought way too much wire and you did not need 6-3 wire you needed 6-2 wire obviously.
I also purchased 6-3, mostly because it was readily available at local store, while 6-2 was not. Having said that, I'm using the white as ground lead and cutting off the bare gnd lead. Seems to me the larger ga wire for gnd is better, even if not truly needed. White lead wrapped in green tape to avoid confusion.
Did you set the amperage off camera bc I never saw you set it up?
It's very dangerous to use a drill that close to the live terminals in the panel. Should have shut the entire panel down. Also, the white wire now becomes the ground and the bare copper is just capped off. You also need a torque screw driver to make the connections correctly.
This guy love to use his drill as an electrician myself I dont think this is the way to do it, no control when driving al screws with the drill. Doesnt look profesional to me.
Very nice. I’ll be calling when I get an electric vehicle.
I was always quiet curious on how they chose placement for these EV Chargers. Lots of great info in here thank you so much!
I enjoyed your video. Maybe I missed it but why did you use 50a circuit instead of a 60a? Was 50a the max for the panel? I am using 60a which charges a bit faster since it is using 48a (60a) instead of 40a (50). And 48a is max for most Tesla's.
He used 6/3 Romex which is rated at 55 amps, not 60 amps like THHN wire in conduit would have. So he did the right thing by pairing up with 50 amp breaker.
El mejor video que he visto. Muy detallado.
Nice video. Shown every details.
Very thorough!
Man, you are the best!
Instead of using 6/3 with ground, what can’t you just use 6/2 with ground. The natural line in 6/3 is useless. It saves you $62 by using 6/2. In addition, my main panel is in the basement which is 40+ feet from the wall charger. I need to open some dry wall and make 2 90 degree turns. The less resistance from 6/2, the easier to pull the line.
George, you are correct you can just use 6/2 cable and it would be easier to pull through conduit with one less wire. The neutral was included future use if needed. But you are right 6/2 is less expensive and easier to route.
6awg 60c NM-B wire is not rated for 60 amps anyways. It's only rated for 55amps. You should be using 4awg, but since they don't sell 4/2, you have to buy 4/3 wire. Or you can use 6/2 THHN wire or 6/2 MC wire which have a higher temperature rating. Just make sure you get a 75c rated breaker to match.
N K this response is for you my friend, that Tesla will pull maybe 37amps these is absolutely no need for 4/2 and I’m still not sure why nobody caught the Homeline Breaker in a Eaton / Cutler Hammer Panel other then that Good Work BlueWire Electric
@@brandoncampbell7911 You make the assumption that we live in a perfect world. In a perfect world, nothing every breaks and everything works according to plan. However, we don't live in a perfect world and devices can fail. If the circuit board of the charger has a fault or internal short, then it's the job of the breaker in the panel to cut off before the wire heats up and melts. This is why THHN wire and MC wire are fine with 6/2 at 60 amps, because the insulation has a higher temperature rating. But NM-B wire has a lower 60c temperature rating. It's possible to melt before the breaker trips. Granted we're only talking a 5 amp difference in the rating. So it's not likely to melt that badly before the breaker trips. It'll heat up, beyond 60c for a second, but not likely melt. The NEC likely puts a little headroom into their ratings. So like I said, he's probably fine, but it's not to code.
@@GROGU123 If the Tesla charger only draws around 40 amps why can't we use #6 NM-B rated for 55 amps? All input is appreciated
Thank you.
thank you so much for this video,
is it ok to use this wire for under ground, I have my electrical panel 75 ft away from where I want to install my charger and I need to go under ground
Just go to your local electrical distributor and tell them you need "direct burial" wire.
WOW - A lot of keyboard jockeys on here complaining about this, that, the other.....
I got an idea - all you guys (that have the proper credentials) make vids on how --- YOU --- would do this job and let's see who keyboards' up to *itch about your work.
Unreal.
Thanks for posting the vid here.
Bro, if you're gonna post a video about any electrical installation, then at least do it properly.
He never said he shut the main breaker, he drilled through the panel, left the metal shavings in there. Never torqued connection per breaker/wall charger specs.
Used a 50amp breaker on a wall charger that can go up to 48 amps.
Imagine how dangerous that is if an unexperienced person tries to do the same?
good video sam
Excellent video! 👏👏👏
Thanks for sharing
Well explain
Great Video Sir. Thanks
Thank you very much.. Awsome video. Very nice and neat... 👍👍👍
good stuff but wasting a lot of wire for a short run. $7.4 per foot from homedepot
Is it not safe per code standards to combine breaker tandem afci breaker? There’s no more space in my circuit panel, however, after calling around most Electric companies recommended installing a sub panel and some said that was not needed. What are your thoughts.
AFCI is now code standard in order to detect "sparking" in circuits that may cause fires. I would say it's ok to install a tandem AFCI breaker to create space in your panel as long as the circuit breaker is manufactured for the application and is sized properly to the existing wire gauge. But It wouldn't be a bad idea to add a sub-panel for more space. It would also help prevent any overheating that might occur in the main panel caused by adding more circuit breakers. Hope this helps
Thank you
@@bluewireelectric6445 Adding sub panel will also prevent the breaker from tripping?
@@kurpal8904 are you talking about the main breaker tripping?.
@@bluewireelectric6445 Yes
@@kurpal8904 It depends, for example, if the main breaker is 100 amps and the existing load is, let's say 80 amps, and you add a sub panel and load it up to 30 amps with extra circuits, the 100 amp main breaker would still trip. Anything added under a main breaker will essentially add up to so many amps. If you add more than rating of the main breaker, it will trip
Great video.
A decent installation BUT not 100% correct and does not meet Tesla pro installer specifications. You didn't read the instructions. Must torque the connectors to specifications in the wire box and at the breaker using a torque screwdriver. Moreover you didn't follow the wire path in the wire box correctly and didn't use the included zip tie to make sure the wire does not interfere with the temperature sensor. You also are supposed to use washers with rubber or neoprene layer (they include then with the mounting screws) for waterproof installation and inside garage is considered a wet location. I know some of this is minor but torque to spec is NOT minor for continuous loads like car charging. Thankfully you used a 50 amp breaker for #6 Romex and did not make the mistake of 60 amp breaker with it (which would be OK if THHN wires in conduit). Hopefully you set up the Wall Connector for the 50 amp breaker. Also, why not just use the neutral for the ground and mark it with green tape and not use bare ground? You did a neat job though, but it would fail inspection in the Tesla One app requirements.
Let me ask you one question. Did you just have that 2 pole square d hom breaker on the truck and used it instead of going to get an eaton br ?
Most likely. There are also a couple other Square D breakers already in the box. I noticed the same thing.
@@LoganJonesJ lol yeah I know it “fits” and I’ve done it before as well but I try not to. Maybe they didn’t have an Eaton breaker or something and he had to get the job done that day and maybe he went back and changed the square d out for an Eaton.
@@alphasaiyan5760 hopefully lol
He didn't the Neutral wire in the charging port but connect in the breaker panel 🤔
My kingdom for some EZ Ancors.
Toggle bolt? I m sure there is a 2x4 stud in the vicinity.
made you should warn diyer's about drilling in a line service panel
How much was this install?
DONT please DONT do this, 1st of all dont use romex 6-3 use thhn / thwn (90C) or better, 6-3 romex is not sufficient for continuous loads like ev charging, torque your connections on the evse and the breaker (2 or 3 times after a wiggle) and always use the 1.25* rule when calculating loads over 2-3 hours, use mechanical connection breakers (knife) on a different sub panel the bus bar on that panel, breakers like the ones here (pop in) will share heating on other breakers and will melt before popping, make shure to show when you disconnect the main braker when working on a panel, and so, so many more ... sorry i couldnt make it to the end of the video, maybe u did or correct some of this things
"6-3 romex is not sufficient for continuous loads like ev charging" say what I dont get it? WTF?
He's using a 50A breaker not 60A so 6/3 Romex is fine.
Modern NM-B is 90 degree rated. Terminations at the breaker should be 75 degree. 75 column #6 is rated for 65amp. 50a load continuous @125% = 62.5a. Should be good to go.
After some research, looks like you're right. The nm sheathing is 90 degree. The conductors are 60 degree, should be #4 NM-B or #6 thhn. MC might have actually been a good solution for this, shits expensive though. But better than a lawsuit. Good on you. 👊
@@DavidTPhan NEC defines loads that can run over 3 hours, as continuous loads. Also some articles stating car charges are considered continuous loads. Continuous loads should be calculated at 125%. So a 50a load is actually 62.5a load.
Wow just wow!
your team read yellow and blue haha
No such thing anymore as a neutral. Its the grounded conductor and NEVER IS & NEVER WILL BE A RETURN WIRE! On all two wire circuits it draws same amount of current as the energised wire. On a common 120/240 volt three wire circuit the white grounded conductor draws the difference of the two energised wires Example if say the black wire was drawing 15 amps and the red wire 10 Amos then the white wire would only carry 5 amps.
Did you really put a square d breaker in an Eaton bro….. Do you even know how to electrician bro??????
www.eaton.com/us/en-us/catalog/electrical-circuit-protection/classified-circuit-breakers.html#:~:text=Eaton's%20UL%20classified%20breakers%20are,%2DHinds%2C%20and%20Square%20D.
My guy didn’t torque the wires?! I am not an electrician.
Sad that people don’t know how to do this level of electrical , which is fairly simple, they pay people to do it for them and pay usually upwards of 500 dollars to have someone do it borderline wrong!!. The Tesla Wall charger DOES NOT SENSE the AMPERAGE its connected to. But people trust others to be knowledgeable where they are not and all it proves is human error , knowledge and pride in work aren’t always present in all things…So one MUST educate themselves to the theory at minimum so that you can pay a person for the physical labor skill but U NEED to have a knowledge of the theory of the task so you can correct and even police what you are paying for. But just allowing someone to charge you and also make mistakes,….IS INSANE!! People it’s time to actually Learn how to actually DOOOOOOO Something besides send emails, go to meetings and make slides. Too many MBA’s in the world and slide deck creators….So this guy can come in and make mistakes with your voltage on your Tesla charger and u Still pAY full price.
I think you did a wrong wire connection. The wires going to charger terminal should be looped upwards and then into the terminal as manufacturing instruction.
You are correct. Upside down, not torqued, insufficient breaker size for 48 amp continuous load, missing conduit, Romex 6-3 instead of recommended THHN. Not mounted into stud. This is why companies like Qmerit exist.
great job.can you make a video shows how to change 110v to 240v? thanks!