These videos are invaluable. Way better than your polished tutorials. There’s no better way to learn than just watching someone do their job while explaining it out loud. I’m getting into print and VDP myself, and I’ve got a new favorite channel 👍🏼
Great video and i do agree the iq is great saves lots of steps an you can focus on just press the start😀 and huge Thanx for the envlope tips just made my day awesome 👍👍
Sometimes dust gets under the glass not just on the outer surface. I have had techs take apart the IQ-501 just to clean under the glass. Its helped some. For us, one big issue is running paper such as gloss cover that has silica on it. As far as the gaff tape, there was a tech notice from Konica I believe that recommended covering both units in it to keep light reflections or minimize the light coming in. He wrapped #2 from front to back, and part of #1 from the back of the unit.
*This* is the video I've been waiting for you to make. Next, you should look into a feature enabled by the IQ-501, called AQA (Automatic Quality Adjustment), which does battle with streaking and banding. (It shows up on the menus as Basic Image Diagnosis and Detailed Diagnosis.) Another way to keep the service techs at bay!
Pull the glass units and carefully treat with Rain-X. This will prevent constant dust film from forming. Get your cover back on, and try not to block filter vents.
Hello, Dan. One point, if I may, regarding color calibration. Though the IQ-501 is a fabulous piece of kit, it is limited by a single factor, and that factor is the color calibration of the two scanning sensors. To ensure accurate color reproduction, scanning sensors must also be calibrated before those sensors perform any further calibration of printouts. The only way to do this is to use a color calibration target, such as an ITU (?) or IT8 (?) target, which, in effect, is a photographic positive that has been calibrated by an outside supplier. Such a target will be rated to remain within color calibration specification for only a limited time, such as a year or two, so a new target will need to be procured every year or so. Therefore, for guaranteed, accurate color calibration, a shop must 1) calibrate the scanner sensors with an ITU color calibration target and then 2) perform the IQ-501 color calibration routines to calibrate the print engine. These calibration requirements also apply to the handy hand-held color calibration device I have seen you use to color calibrate your other late-model color press: 1) calibrate the hand-held unit with an ITU target and then 2) use the hand-held unit to color calibrate your press' printout output. Cheers. Keep printing. Keep video blogging. Thank you for your postings.
Technology is definitely for good. Operator should be sensible like yourself... I'm a service provider and if the operator is sensible it saves both sides...
Now, I worked for Xerox for more than a decade as a production specialist (software and color) and now I've moved back to the software world. I'm looking for you to share more details. You see, the alignment methodology the versants and iridesse uses produces very good results very easily and yet to reach perfection you need a lot of alignments. For example that 12.5 x 19 in your video, on a xerox machine if you need it dead on you'll want to do an alignment for the large trays (6,7 or A1-1/A1-2) and even then it won't be as perfect in the other large tray. If you needed that stock alignment on all trays, you'd need at minimum an alignment done on tray 6, tray 1 and the bypass. 1-2-3 can be switched around to some degree. 6.7 ditto. If you then needed gloss text version of that stock instead of cover, round and round you go creating more alignments. Now, those alignments are very very good, mind that. How does that really compare with other machines? I hope for an honest, adult discussion, so do share, anyone! :)
This Konica solution would be similar. Each time you are loading a different paper you should do an alignment. You can actually align all trays with one button push, I forgot to show that. The alignment is pretty close when you save it to the paper setting, even if you change that to another tray. The IQ is not perfect, but it is helpful, especially if you are not chancing paper trays often.
Ment to say postion will print targets just on the edge of your sheets which does size / backup, gradation will print colour bars which the photometer measures against a set standard. Keeps the colour / backup very consistent on large runs
Nice. Remember, I wrote, that u don't needed it, because all your knowledge, but obviously it was a "gift" 😄. And certainty we don't have one because the price. Sending u a warm hug from my 80 degrees weather 🌴☀️
Great content! I think it would be quite popular for newbie designers like me, to have something like "printing tips for graphic designers" series, for specific printing cases. I mean, I know some basic stuff like bleeds, CMYK etc. but I think there is much more to it, considering the printing choices out there. It would be a great source of knowledge to know what do we do when a client comes to us with just a sentence "I want you to design a cup label for me". Should we get in touch with the guys who are going to print them and ask for mockups, color profiles etc., is it something the client should do for us, beforehand? Spot UV, Foils, Letterpress, matt, gloss, how gradients and blurs are better printed, how should we prepare and communicate about it with the printing guys? I think every amateur designer has the fear of the printed result being different from what they've designed, so they'd be quite interested in knowing how to be more prepared and relaxed during that stage. Anyway, keep up the good job!
Great questions. I need to put some videos together about this. The best designers are knowledgeable on all the processes. I believe designers should spend a little time in production so they learn the processes. I'll put somthing together some day, thanks!
The code you experienced is probably a patch check on the TX belt for each colors. Your IDC sensors may be a hair dirty and need to be cleaned. You restarting and it working, means it was able to read the density.
Just replaced a colorimeter on an IQ-501. And yes leaving the back will make you clean your lens more often. Try using 4 40lb magnet holds if you prefer not using the wand.
To battle the "spots" issue, duct tape (our tech actually used a metallic tape) the gaps in the IQ-501, in the tray that pulls out of the machine. Prevents dust from getting in, and our problems with spots - which were frequent beforehand - have almost entirely disappeared.
Exactly what and where are these gaps you’re talking about, I work on these machines but I have not had to clean a spot off yet physically anyway I did not know you could reach in there and do that from the back these other guys are talking about, how big of a pain in the butt it is to take this thing all the way out to get that spot off the lens glass I have not had to do it yet
What IC - is on this unit? I am looking into get a C3080 and the two I'm looking at one has the IQ with IC-417 and the other without, but has the IC-313. Trying to figure out what is more beneficial. Any thoughts? Great videos keep up the good work.
It is paper dust. I need to clean the inside out and then close it all up again. That might help. Filters are clean but without the back panel on they are useless.
Awesome tips again giving by you :) Could you make a video for booklet printing from start to finish? What is your print settings, How do you place design on a paper? etc. :)
As a non printer the feature that it seems like it should have is not just calibration but active quality control. where it scans the first output of a given page and then alarms if the subsequent outputs differ by a given margin. The hope being that once you tell it to print you can just walk away and not return until the job is finished. This would hopefully allow you to do lights out printing or simply allow you to fully focus on another task.
You can set an interval where every X amount of sheets it prints a test pattern and checks the output of the engine. At least that's what I've been told.
Yes, you can set it to conduct a density adjustment automatically during a job, but if there is dust on the scanner it will stop the job. So I just turn that feature off for now.
@@justaprinter but I'm thinking more in terms of something like streaking from a worn drum or other abnormalities beyond just density. Although probably the best way to handle that would be being more proactive about changing consumables before an large unattended run.
When you setup your IQ do you have position & gradation turned on in your jobs? ( Auto image adj ) This constantly adjusts backup and colour throughout the print run ( not just at the beginning ) really good feature!
The older KonicaMinolta color products like the C6000 had terrible side to side registration. KonicaMinolta learned a lesson from that and came up with the IQ-501. You're right, the C3080 has really good registration. We mostly have them attached to the C6100 series copiers. Between the new cutter and the IQ-501 you are really competing with the high end print shops.
Actually Konica's first answer to the poor front-to-back registration on the C7000/C6000 was the registration swing mechanism, which they introduced in the next generation printer, the C1070/C1060. That was a good improvement, but mechanical (it adjusted the paper position). This was around 2013-2014. The IQ-501 was introduced in the generation after that, the C2070/C2060, and the adjustments it makes are digital, and precise.
Hi Dan, Really enjoy your channel. Find it very informative . I have a question you might be able to help with. How do I figure out the average cost of printing a 20up A3 sheet of business cards. I am aware of the cost of toner / Yield * 3 + BW Toner / Yield to get cost per print but thats for A4 @ 5% or is it 20% since there are 4 Toners being used. Would I just multiply this amount to get the cost of say 80% of an A3 page and then multiply again for Double side prints. Should I also be adding in the cost of the drums etc to the cost per print ?
Yes, you should be adding in all parts and consumables for your click costs. For me I add all expenses and divide by the number of clicks to get my click costs. Over time, (months and years) the cost per click becomes more accurate. I have spreadsheets on my patreon showing all the calculations.
How did you get the "Don't Care" paper size registered? Does it really mean what I think it does? That would help a great deal in de-cluttering my media list... Does it have any draw-backs?!?
Thats a great question. LOL. I don't see a drawback. I'll have to see if there is an option somewhere. Its kind of nice because you would only need to enter paper weights in the catalog. I'll let you know if I find it.
I think your talking about the laser sight glass rather than the lens in the optics up top. Not sure if theres even a lens on digital copiers. Its usually a xenon lamp (green color light) and or a CIs unit.
I just stumbled on your channel and it’s really interesting despite knowing nothing about printing. Seems like a really satisfied get job. I saw a time laps in one of your videos where it looked like the printer was outputting all of one page at a time on a large run that I thought was a book. When you are printing an entire book for perfect binding do you print it collated straight out of the printer or do you print one page at a time and then use the collator(if that would even work given it’s hooked up to the stapler type binding machine) Thanks!
@@justaprinter Thanks! I’m going through your entire back catalog of videos and it’s really cool to see what the printing world is like. The inserter you have is amazing I work in automation and I love Cam machines. The fluidness of the motion and I could listen to them run for hours, they just purr.
Hi Dan, interesting video as always. Can you explain in a future video what the options under the "Expert adj." menu, things like AC/DC separation, etc and when should one use them? I haven't fully understood what each of these should be used and what problems are they supposed to help you solve.
You do not ever want to play these adjustments unless you're dealing with high elevation or humidity issues. There are mostly transfer voltage settings that 99% of the time never adjusted. To even have this setting "expert adjustment" is a Dispwitch enabled feature. Further settings in this adjustment menu are great tho.
I know that maintenance is important for keeping machines working smoothly instead of spending money for a tech to fix issues and replace parts but the problem with digital machine is they are not dursty like industrial especially those used in offset printing.
Hi. Great videos. I'm from India. I just have a small query. Why don't you use xerox machine. I own a xerox 770 press. Planning to upgrade my machine. So my first preference was xerox versant 280. But after seeing your videos I'm confused with konica and xerox. Please share your thoughts. Thank you
The reason I use Konica machines is because they were more economical than Xerox. I also like the fact that I can buy parts for them and service Konica machines myself.
Why would you miss it if you have to service it daily? Seems counterintuitive to me. The only benefit sounds like front to back registeration, how often does that go out of spec?
Front to back registration stays pretty consistent for many days. But if I change papers I like to run it. I would miss it just because when it does work it is amazing!
If you place a fan with filter on one of the vents and create slightly positive clean air pressure in the machine your dust problem is likely to go away.
@@justaprinter As long as you maintain positive air pressure with clean filters air dust is not likely to get in from outside. Question is how much of it is coming from paper toner and internal sources. You are much better judge of that I repair lots of industrial machinery but not digital presses.
The IQ 501 is an automated scanner that scans the front and back of the sheet and will automatically adjust color and registration and skew. Its nice when it works.
Hi, great videos and very useful resource for Konica owners. I would like to ask about the IQ front back registration. We recently installed a brand new 4070 Konica with IQ -501 by konica technicians. To be honest we are completely disappointed… The registration is poor. There are 1 to 2mm deviations.. I have the impression that the machine was not correctly installed … In the past we had a 3070 with manual back front registration. The accuracy was by far better. What I want to ask is what is your results regarding the back front registration? Do you consider 1 1,5 to 2mm normal differences? I will appreciate any feedbacks. Thank you!
I agree with you, something is wrong. With the IQ front to back registration should be right on for every sheet. Check to make sure your paper is consistent. Otherwise, something else is wrong or not set up correctly.
it sounds like you might need another machine. specifically if having dust get everywhere causes machines to malfunction, you might need something which dedusts your paper. if you can keep the dust out of the machine it should increase the time between maintenance considerably. also if you can have a dedicated deduster, with a fan, you could get most of the dust into a filter. it will create more work, cause you will have to keep another machine fed. but in terms of pipelining, maintenence probably consumes more time and makes your results more irregular in time. i'm kinda surprised that paper companies aren't selling dedusted paper.
IMO I have never had to do this much cleaning on the IQ ever. There's a bulletin that has ypu remove the scanners to seal them better. You probably have dust inside the unit that needs to be cleaned.
The newers versions are the same thing as they have been but just more modified out of the box to prevent dust. I promise, the bulletin helps. I'd be more then happy to send it to you.
IQ501 is pretty cool but the down sides outweigh the value in my opinion. Cost and the added length/space that it uses just don’t make it worthwhile. We setup up every job manually on our Konica’s and can do it pretty darn fast and once the job is cut, folded etc then no one will tell the difference.
@@justaprinter If it was a bit more reliable I would say that their argument about needing less skilled operators (there are several inherent downsides to trusting black box technology, I know) holds a lot of weight. If you look at it over four years if you can pay someone just $2/hr. less because of it you will have net $4000. The other place I see this making sense is at a company like FastCap where because of their "lean" manufacturing workflow they have a well equipped press that anyone in the company is empowered to use.
These videos are invaluable. Way better than your polished tutorials. There’s no better way to learn than just watching someone do their job while explaining it out loud. I’m getting into print and VDP myself, and I’ve got a new favorite channel 👍🏼
Great video and i do agree the iq is great saves lots of steps an you can focus on just press the start😀 and huge Thanx for the envlope tips just made my day awesome 👍👍
Happy to help!
I have 7 in the field. All have very minimal issues and worked so great. Front and back in 100% dead on everytime.
Thats great news. I need to get mine in better order.
Sometimes dust gets under the glass not just on the outer surface. I have had techs take apart the IQ-501 just to clean under the glass. Its helped some. For us, one big issue is running paper such as gloss cover that has silica on it. As far as the gaff tape, there was a tech notice from Konica I believe that recommended covering both units in it to keep light reflections or minimize the light coming in. He wrapped #2 from front to back, and part of #1 from the back of the unit.
*This* is the video I've been waiting for you to make. Next, you should look into a feature enabled by the IQ-501, called AQA (Automatic Quality Adjustment), which does battle with streaking and banding. (It shows up on the menus as Basic Image Diagnosis and Detailed Diagnosis.) Another way to keep the service techs at bay!
Oh yeah? I'll certainly play with that feature. Sounds like that could be helpful. Thanks Steve!
Well I'll give you a big like .... before watching the video
Wish you all the best.
Nice thanks!
Pull the glass units and carefully treat with Rain-X. This will prevent constant dust film from forming. Get your cover back on, and try not to block filter vents.
Great idea, I'll definitely do that some day.
Hello, Dan. One point, if I may, regarding color calibration. Though the IQ-501 is a fabulous piece of kit, it is limited by a single factor, and that factor is the color calibration of the two scanning sensors. To ensure accurate color reproduction, scanning sensors must also be calibrated before those sensors perform any further calibration of printouts. The only way to do this is to use a color calibration target, such as an ITU (?) or IT8 (?) target, which, in effect, is a photographic positive that has been calibrated by an outside supplier. Such a target will be rated to remain within color calibration specification for only a limited time, such as a year or two, so a new target will need to be procured every year or so. Therefore, for guaranteed, accurate color calibration, a shop must 1) calibrate the scanner sensors with an ITU color calibration target and then 2) perform the IQ-501 color calibration routines to calibrate the print engine. These calibration requirements also apply to the handy hand-held color calibration device I have seen you use to color calibrate your other late-model color press: 1) calibrate the hand-held unit with an ITU target and then 2) use the hand-held unit to color calibrate your press' printout output. Cheers. Keep printing. Keep video blogging. Thank you for your postings.
Cool, I didn't know that. Thanks!
Technology is definitely for good.
Operator should be sensible like yourself...
I'm a service provider and if the operator is sensible it saves both sides...
Yup, even with the IQ you still need a good operator.
Now, I worked for Xerox for more than a decade as a production specialist (software and color) and now I've moved back to the software world. I'm looking for you to share more details. You see, the alignment methodology the versants and iridesse uses produces very good results very easily and yet to reach perfection you need a lot of alignments. For example that 12.5 x 19 in your video, on a xerox machine if you need it dead on you'll want to do an alignment for the large trays (6,7 or A1-1/A1-2) and even then it won't be as perfect in the other large tray. If you needed that stock alignment on all trays, you'd need at minimum an alignment done on tray 6, tray 1 and the bypass. 1-2-3 can be switched around to some degree. 6.7 ditto. If you then needed gloss text version of that stock instead of cover, round and round you go creating more alignments. Now, those alignments are very very good, mind that. How does that really compare with other machines? I hope for an honest, adult discussion, so do share, anyone! :)
This Konica solution would be similar. Each time you are loading a different paper you should do an alignment. You can actually align all trays with one button push, I forgot to show that. The alignment is pretty close when you save it to the paper setting, even if you change that to another tray. The IQ is not perfect, but it is helpful, especially if you are not chancing paper trays often.
Ment to say postion will print targets just on the edge of your sheets which does size / backup, gradation will print colour bars which the photometer measures against a set standard. Keeps the colour / backup very consistent on large runs
I need to play with that!
Nice. Remember, I wrote, that u don't needed it, because all your knowledge, but obviously it was a "gift" 😄.
And certainty we don't have one because the price.
Sending u a warm hug from my 80 degrees weather 🌴☀️
Keep the warm weather coming! :)
Great content! I think it would be quite popular for newbie designers like me, to have something like "printing tips for graphic designers" series, for specific printing cases.
I mean, I know some basic stuff like bleeds, CMYK etc. but I think there is much more to it, considering the printing choices out there. It would be a great source of knowledge to know what do we do when a client comes to us with just a sentence "I want you to design a cup label for me". Should we get in touch with the guys who are going to print them and ask for mockups, color profiles etc., is it something the client should do for us, beforehand? Spot UV, Foils, Letterpress, matt, gloss, how gradients and blurs are better printed, how should we prepare and communicate about it with the printing guys? I think every amateur designer has the fear of the printed result being different from what they've designed, so they'd be quite interested in knowing how to be more prepared and relaxed during that stage.
Anyway, keep up the good job!
Great questions. I need to put some videos together about this. The best designers are knowledgeable on all the processes. I believe designers should spend a little time in production so they learn the processes. I'll put somthing together some day, thanks!
The code you experienced is probably a patch check on the TX belt for each colors. Your IDC sensors may be a hair dirty and need to be cleaned. You restarting and it working, means it was able to read the density.
Oh ok, I'll keep that in mind. Thanks!!
Just replaced a colorimeter on an IQ-501. And yes leaving the back will make you clean your lens more often. Try using 4 40lb magnet holds if you prefer not using the wand.
Good idea, I do need to fix my IQ for good.
To battle the "spots" issue, duct tape (our tech actually used a metallic tape) the gaps in the IQ-501, in the tray that pulls out of the machine. Prevents dust from getting in, and our problems with spots - which were frequent beforehand - have almost entirely disappeared.
I have heard about this. I need to do it sometime. Thanks for letting me know.
Exactly what and where are these gaps you’re talking about, I work on these machines but I have not had to clean a spot off yet physically anyway I did not know you could reach in there and do that from the back these other guys are talking about, how big of a pain in the butt it is to take this thing all the way out to get that spot off the lens glass I have not had to do it yet
What IC - is on this unit? I am looking into get a C3080 and the two I'm looking at one has the IQ with IC-417 and the other without, but has the IC-313. Trying to figure out what is more beneficial. Any thoughts? Great videos keep up the good work.
Great video Dan, is the dust Paperdust or toner/dev? Aren't the filters blocked or full?
It is paper dust. I need to clean the inside out and then close it all up again. That might help. Filters are clean but without the back panel on they are useless.
I also have this same konica 3070 it is top-notch printing machine
They are nice!
Awesome tips again giving by you :) Could you make a video for booklet printing from start to finish? What is your print settings, How do you place design on a paper? etc. :)
Great idea! Will do.
As a non printer the feature that it seems like it should have is not just calibration but active quality control. where it scans the first output of a given page and then alarms if the subsequent outputs differ by a given margin. The hope being that once you tell it to print you can just walk away and not return until the job is finished. This would hopefully allow you to do lights out printing or simply allow you to fully focus on another task.
I think it does it, you can set and auto density check every amount of prints. That's why it's called "Image Quality Unit".
You can set an interval where every X amount of sheets it prints a test pattern and checks the output of the engine. At least that's what I've been told.
Yes, you can set it to conduct a density adjustment automatically during a job, but if there is dust on the scanner it will stop the job. So I just turn that feature off for now.
@@justaprinter but I'm thinking more in terms of something like streaking from a worn drum or other abnormalities beyond just density. Although probably the best way to handle that would be being more proactive about changing consumables before an large unattended run.
what's the difference between the Konica Minolta and RICOH digital press
Both have good production presses but Konica Minolta is more known for building stronger, reliable and high quality printing machines.
I second G.B. Cooper.
Thanks alot
When you setup your IQ do you have position & gradation turned on in your jobs? ( Auto image adj ) This constantly adjusts backup and colour throughout the print run ( not just at the beginning ) really good feature!
I don't but I should try that once I get my "spots" under control.
I've read that alcohol--other than 99% isopropyl--can leave a residue, and that layers can build up over time. What do you use to clean the IQ lenses?
I had been using 99% isopropyl to clean the lenses.
The older KonicaMinolta color products like the C6000 had terrible side to side registration. KonicaMinolta learned a lesson from that and came up with the IQ-501. You're right, the C3080 has really good registration. We mostly have them attached to the C6100 series copiers. Between the new cutter and the IQ-501 you are really competing with the high end print shops.
Yes, looking back I have made several big improvements over the past year. I didn't have plans to do any of it. Just kind of happened.
Actually Konica's first answer to the poor front-to-back registration on the C7000/C6000 was the registration swing mechanism, which they introduced in the next generation printer, the C1070/C1060. That was a good improvement, but mechanical (it adjusted the paper position). This was around 2013-2014. The IQ-501 was introduced in the generation after that, the C2070/C2060, and the adjustments it makes are digital, and precise.
Don't have any issues with spots on the IQ, had it once and the cleaning wand worked fine
This machine had issue when I got it so I wonder if it just needs a good cleaning.
Hi Dan, Really enjoy your channel. Find it very informative . I have a question you might be able to help with. How do I figure out the average cost of printing a 20up A3 sheet of business cards. I am aware of the cost of toner / Yield * 3 + BW Toner / Yield to get cost per print but thats for A4 @ 5% or is it 20% since there are 4 Toners being used. Would I just multiply this amount to get the cost of say 80% of an A3 page and then multiply again for Double side prints. Should I also be adding in the cost of the drums etc to the cost per print ?
Yes, you should be adding in all parts and consumables for your click costs. For me I add all expenses and divide by the number of clicks to get my click costs. Over time, (months and years) the cost per click becomes more accurate. I have spreadsheets on my patreon showing all the calculations.
How did you get the "Don't Care" paper size registered?
Does it really mean what I think it does? That would help a great deal in de-cluttering my media list... Does it have any draw-backs?!?
Thats a great question. LOL. I don't see a drawback. I'll have to see if there is an option somewhere. Its kind of nice because you would only need to enter paper weights in the catalog. I'll let you know if I find it.
I think your talking about the laser sight glass rather than the lens in the optics up top. Not sure if theres even a lens on digital copiers. Its usually a xenon lamp (green color light) and or a CIs unit.
I currently removed it from the machine.
I just stumbled on your channel and it’s really interesting despite knowing nothing about printing. Seems like a really satisfied get job.
I saw a time laps in one of your videos where it looked like the printer was outputting all of one page at a time on a large run that I thought was a book. When you are printing an entire book for perfect binding do you print it collated straight out of the printer or do you print one page at a time and then use the collator(if that would even work given it’s hooked up to the stapler type binding machine)
Thanks!
Glad you like the channel! When printing perfect bound books I print out the books collated and ready to put in the binder. I do enjoy my job. :)
@@justaprinter Thanks! I’m going through your entire back catalog of videos and it’s really cool to see what the printing world is like. The inserter you have is amazing I work in automation and I love Cam machines. The fluidness of the motion and I could listen to them run for hours, they just purr.
Hi Dan, interesting video as always. Can you explain in a future video what the options under the "Expert adj." menu, things like AC/DC separation, etc and when should one use them? I haven't fully understood what each of these should be used and what problems are they supposed to help you solve.
I can work on that. To be honest I don't use it too much but a good overview would be good for me and everyone else.
You do not ever want to play these adjustments unless you're dealing with high elevation or humidity issues. There are mostly transfer voltage settings that 99% of the time never adjusted. To even have this setting "expert adjustment" is a Dispwitch enabled feature. Further settings in this adjustment menu are great tho.
The iq501 is brilliant
Agreed. It made me smile today with how perfect it is.
I know that maintenance is important for keeping machines working smoothly instead of spending money for a tech to fix issues and replace parts but the problem with digital machine is they are not dursty like industrial especially those used in offset printing.
Agreed, most digital presses are lightweight. HP Indigo might be the one exception, they seem to be pretty solid.
Hi. Great videos. I'm from India. I just have a small query. Why don't you use xerox machine. I own a xerox 770 press. Planning to upgrade my machine. So my first preference was xerox versant 280. But after seeing your videos I'm confused with konica and xerox. Please share your thoughts. Thank you
The reason I use Konica machines is because they were more economical than Xerox. I also like the fact that I can buy parts for them and service Konica machines myself.
Why would you miss it if you have to service it daily? Seems counterintuitive to me. The only benefit sounds like front to back registeration, how often does that go out of spec?
Front to back registration stays pretty consistent for many days. But if I change papers I like to run it. I would miss it just because when it does work it is amazing!
If you place a fan with filter on one of the vents and create slightly positive clean air pressure in the machine your dust problem is likely to go away.
That might work. I have not had it hooked up for awhile now, I like the extra space.
@@justaprinter As long as you maintain positive air pressure with clean filters air dust is not likely to get in from outside. Question is how much of it is coming from paper toner and internal sources. You are much better judge of that I repair lots of industrial machinery but not digital presses.
Hi Dan, what is an IQ 501? Ive been stuck on Canon for a while and im out of the loop.
The IQ 501 is an automated scanner that scans the front and back of the sheet and will automatically adjust color and registration and skew. Its nice when it works.
Hi, great videos and very useful resource for Konica owners. I would like to ask about the IQ front back registration. We recently installed a brand new 4070 Konica with IQ -501 by konica technicians. To be honest we are completely disappointed… The registration is poor. There are 1 to 2mm deviations.. I have the impression that the machine was not correctly installed … In the past we had a 3070 with manual back front registration. The accuracy was by far better. What I want to ask is what is your results regarding the back front registration? Do you consider 1 1,5 to 2mm normal differences?
I will appreciate any feedbacks. Thank you!
I agree with you, something is wrong. With the IQ front to back registration should be right on for every sheet. Check to make sure your paper is consistent. Otherwise, something else is wrong or not set up correctly.
@@justaprinter Thank you I really appreciate it I will contact konica again!
The 'automatic alignment' ... Is it per tray? per paper gsm ? per paper size?
It is per paper.
it sounds like you might need another machine.
specifically if having dust get everywhere causes machines to malfunction, you might need something which dedusts your paper.
if you can keep the dust out of the machine it should increase the time between maintenance considerably. also if you can have a dedicated deduster, with a fan, you could get most of the dust into a filter.
it will create more work, cause you will have to keep another machine fed. but in terms of pipelining, maintenence probably consumes more time and makes your results more irregular in time.
i'm kinda surprised that paper companies aren't selling dedusted paper.
Some paper is certainly dirtier than others. I think I need to just sweep and vacuum more often and that would help too.
Fantástico Just muito bom....meu sonho é ter uma Gráfica dessa e claro com a mesma experiência sua abraço amigo
Você pode. Trabalhe duro e não desista.
me gustaría tener subtítulos en español, para comprender mejor tus videos
it makes job easyer from malaysia
Hello!
IMO I have never had to do this much cleaning on the IQ ever. There's a bulletin that has ypu remove the scanners to seal them better. You probably have dust inside the unit that needs to be cleaned.
I have had to pull the adu out to clean what you're doing for build up on rollers.
The newers versions are the same thing as they have been but just more modified out of the box to prevent dust. I promise, the bulletin helps. I'd be more then happy to send it to you.
I think I have that bulletin. I should really do that. It would be awesome if the IQ wouldn't need to be cleaned daily! I'll have to do that.
Good job Dan.
Thanks!
There is a cleaner stored in the door to clean the glass with.
Yes, mine is ripped and I need to get another one
@@justaprinter there's a bulletin to seal the lens better. I can send it to you
cool that
Thanks!
IQ501 is pretty cool but the down sides outweigh the value in my opinion. Cost and the added length/space that it uses just don’t make it worthwhile. We setup up every job manually on our Konica’s and can do it pretty darn fast and once the job is cut, folded etc then no one will tell the difference.
Agreed. You cannot charge extra for the output so why would you spend more on the machine?
@@justaprinter If it was a bit more reliable I would say that their argument about needing less skilled operators (there are several inherent downsides to trusting black box technology, I know) holds a lot of weight. If you look at it over four years if you can pay someone just $2/hr. less because of it you will have net $4000.
The other place I see this making sense is at a company like FastCap where because of their "lean" manufacturing workflow they have a well equipped press that anyone in the company is empowered to use.
love you
Thanks!
You can spend 20,000 or more on a Fiery Controller. Crazy
Wow, thats crazy.
sir you are graet
Haha, thanks!
Hi Army how r u?
Haha,doing good. Glad that spring is near!
1 spec of dust shouldnt throw down a code. This thing is way way to sensative. Maybe its this IQ-501 gadget.
I should try to fix this.