@@user-bj6nu1he4r я вот бак мтз варил, горловину пополам пиленную, таким макаром сразу все прогарает, прихватками, обстукиваешь, потом между прихватками, обстукиваешь, потом уже варишь, правда тройкой варил, а сплошником и пол см не пройдешь дыра
Можно не пластины, а такой же профиль соединить торцами. Но думаю что это не для сварщика 80го лвла, много времени уйдет пока качественный дубль выйдет😄😄😄
@@nton2228 доброго...... и своё ,,пять копеек впишу...'' ,,,Но думаю что это не для сварщика 80го лвла, много времени уйдет...''''' у так наз.. 80дисятников....:) для такого = ЕСТЬ И ПОЛУАВТОМАТ! И АРГОНОДУГОВАЯ! === рекомендую!!!
As a person who has never welded anything, but with an interest in these kind of videos, You show blowout on the flat sections, then proceed to butt join two corners, which i am guessing would be able to take more amperage/heat anyway, But having watched others weld thin material like this at work, They have used the one stick, and if it blew out anything, lowered the amperage of the weld until it was set right. Now for an outsider to take this kind of video seriously, you should have welded in exactly the same flats as you blewout in the starting pictures. Happy and pleased to be corrected by those in the know.
From my experience, if you do what he did on the flat surface on this thin material, pretty guaranteed to burnt through. Other videos i ve gathered show: switching polarity to dc negative, and using a dotted technique rather than one continuous motion
I'm a sheetmetal worker. You are spot on CD3008, And also corners have basically a root gap due to radius of corner that hides the slag inclusion when he keeps running back over by 20 mm. Personally i'd have grabbed the TIG for that weld anyday so welding 1mm by stick is irrelevant to me.
Ok I’m a welder myself first of all he welded the two tubes on the length side which gives him the thickness of the side I was expecting him to weld the end of the tubes
Im still not sure what hes trying to say... im mean using lower amerage and a smaller rod to weld thin stuff isnt really a welding secret.. now take a 6010 crank it up, and run really fast, to weld thin stuff.. mhhh.. rolling over a gtaw rod to take up the heat.. mhhh.. this.. super mhhh..
На пачке с электродами написаны все секреты! И толщина свариваемого металла, и сила тока на конкретно взятый электрод. А на некоторых даже график построен ))))
@@user-ub7nh2ec7q что бы было понятней,возьмите две металлические полосы 20 мм,(это будут стенки профтрубы),положите их одну на другую,начните варить их сбоку и попробуйте прожечь.
This technique was used for the purpose of welding thin, 1mm, metal with an arc welder to avoid over heating. I learnt something, so will experiment to get that Christmas gift.
Ignore everything you just seen. Grab the 7018 rod 3/32 size set the machine at 85 and weld it. If it pleases you tip it a little down hand. You get a beautiful bead. If you can’t pull that off leave it to an actual welder.
I’m an actual welder, aws certified ( not that it matters ) it’s 1mm thick, 7018 would not work on this at 85 amps even, maybe on dcen with a whip and pause, but I would be using a 1/16 6013 at 40 amps and whip and pause.
E6011 or 13 is basically a drag rod. In this demo you don't need to weave at all. Just start and constantly pull the rod back making a smooth bead. You can use multiple weaves if you want. Just stay with how you start all the way. You do have to go back and forth on a root pass.
He,,,,,,, oops “gender neutral” THEY need a mig welder, so much better than stick. Though it does have its place and purpose. But not for that thin shit.
This type of video needs a healthy amount of shit talking, imagine a mechanic saying "your breaks are worn out? Well just hit them 3 times with a hammer and they are as good as new"
That might pass the drop test, knock it off your welding table and if it stays intact, she's good to go. Not likely going to meet any certification standards beyond that though, but if you are just bubblegumming two pieces of metal together at home, for an non critical project, looks good to me.
Con el 6010 o 6011 o aquellos electrodos que no tengan escoria....si puedes ir para adelante y para atrás....pero solo con determinados electrodos....!!! Y sólo con máquinas de cc....o inverters
all i can say is, I don't do that dragging thing so far for that thickness just need low amp and right weld apply. you already choose the side corner of the square tube and that part is thicker than the middle part. there is no problem with that weld if you're using that for your projects but you cannot pass in welding test with that technique bro. just saying.
Agree with you both. Will not pass in a modern (American) classroom and nothing wrong here... Most of America's existing metal infrastructure work, that we walk, ride, or more importantly, move our good on (trains and trucks/intermodals) all look like this; and they usually work well beyond thier life expectancy including error margins. Not all metal joining is art work, nor does it need to be to serve it's function. #teachnewdogsoldtricks
The example is very good for those who learn new tricks in welding. But from minute 1:50 of the movie, it's another weld you made. It's not that welding done in the film.
Все конечно прекрасно, но это не сварка 1мм металла) тепло очень хорошо уходит в ребро, при таком расположении деталей шов и аккуратнее можно сделать). Показывая прожоги открытого металла, противопоставляя свой шов по ребру, такое себе сравнение).
I went to Lincoln Electric Co. Welding school 40 years ago. I spent many hours burning 6010 rod using the "whip" technique. It is all in the wrist movement and watching the puddle not the arc. Whip the rod away letting the puddle cool than return slightly off center to the puddle.
So which part was the secret? Using smaller electrodes, turning the amps down, walking the arc back and forth over the slag, or passing far too quickly to prevent any kind of penetration?
@@firesurfer not acceptable to me, lacking penetration, it'd need grinding to smooth it out, rubbish technique, I don't blow holes in metal when welding either with metallic arc, mig or tig, why do you...
@@firesurfer If you can do the welds in nearly the same time but instead of quick and dirty, nice and clean everybody would choose nice and clean... What do you think?
Lower your temp to 60-65, don't use a "weep and pause" motion, just a straight line. You're using a 6013 Rod, NOT a 6011 or a 6010 !!! 6013 deposit more material than any other Rod so a "weep and pause" is contra=producent. Keep a very tight Arc and if it goes out, just turn your Amps a little bit up until you find the perfect Current settings. I'm a welding veteran who's been doing this for over 50 years. I KNOW WHAT I'M TALKING ABOUT. Try it. IF YOU TRY IT AND DO IT LIKE I'VE SAID, YOU WON'T NEED TO CHIP IT WITH A HAMMER... IT WILL PEEL ITSELF!! And you will notice the bead lines looking like a stack of dimes.
Don't drag you electrode so much, keeping the rod more vertical or 90deg to the material, this will give you a flatter weld evey time, Go the 6010 next time, that will sort out the "so called welders" Everyone's a welder until the weld test becomes a requirement.
Also more vertical will help to not spread to much head at a point were here dont want to have one, very essential if you try to not burn very thin materials!
Keep in mind that you cannot do much better on 1mm steel with a stick welder. It's probably strong enough weld for most of the things, as you really cannot use such weak steel tube on any demanding application anyways. I have done similar welding on thin material and it has held up just fine even though the weld was butt-ugly (much uglier than on this video). Of course I would not do that in any critical applications.
He shouldn't have just shown the motion of going back and forth. He should have shown that you have to "whip" the arc outta the puddle to let it solidify a little.
@@TheMahtimursu if I had a nickel for every time I heard someone trying to rationalize a crap weld by saying, “I know it looks bad but it’s good enough for what I’m doing”, I’d be retired twice by now. The truth is, with all things being equal, a uniform weld is much stronger than one that isn’t and experience is the secret ingredient in it. So if it looks bad, it IS bad!
Should do a cut-through to check penetration. Look to be just laying a bead on the surface without getting a puddle going, no penetration into the SHS. This will separate without too much trouble, very little strength there. A weld should be stronger than the steel it's joining, this is vastly weaker.
@@mode1charlie170 ...stronger than the parent material, thought I made that clear. Never trust a person who says "trust me". This bead is poorly laid with extremely high potential for contamination/porosity.
Yeah I would kick it up another ten and key hole it ... that may have been thin but the metal is stacked vertically on a provided bevel with no spacing so in reality it was 1/8 stock
I was honestly more curious to see what they wad talking about and yet here we are calling somthing a secret that i was taught in basic welding in highschool
I HAVE BEEN WELDING SINCE THE AGE OF 13, THIS DEMO IS LAUGHABLE ! EVERY GOOD WELDER HAS THEIR OWN TECNIQUES, ALL TECHNIQUES ARE NOT THE SAME, EVERY WELDER HAS A SKILL DEVELOPED OVER MUCH TIME . THE METHOD SHOWN HAS TOO MUCH SLAG INCLUSION, THAT IS BECAUSE OF BACKING UP ON THE WELDING PUDDLE ! I AM EIGHTY THREE AND KNOW A FEW THINGS ABOUT WELDING !
Congrats for you, and You have understand that millenials somtimes misleading with videos just.for likes. I have a proyect Making a chan el with real knowledge and real welders like You. Sorry for textbook i can welding can't Fix this
I don't believe the welding shown in action produced the finished product they were chipping. The action shot I was trying to figure out what the hell they were trying to do.
Unless of course your whole weld is slag. At a job I had In 1980s building big machines I used to just love it when we would be cleaning them up getting ready to paint and you would come across an unchipped weld made by one of those ' expert ' welders in the shop, ' my welds are all perfect and don't need to chip the slag off ', and you would then chip the slag only to find underneath the beautiful looking slag cover the two parts weren't even connected. In other words their perfect weld was all slag.
If you're doing a weld test and you're using 6013 you're going to fail your will test cuz we only test structural and pipeline and we need penetration lots of that 6013 does not penetrate XD
@@nolaughing5087 I have no idea what’s going on. I am not a welder, I am awake at midnight watching a silent video with half the comments in Russian. Can someone explain what’s going on?
Владимир это просто тухлые понты, чтобы денег на ютубе заработать. Есть люди, которые спецом плодят такого рода ролики. Мы на них ведемся и смотрим, а владелец получает бабосы.
60-Series rods(6010, 6011, 6013 etc...) are generally good for thin-wall stuff like this. 60-Series are fast-freezing rods, they will solidify faster than 70-Series will, making them ideal for quick/dirty work for sheet steel or roots on pipe. 60-Series, especially 6013, like to throw a lot of fire, far more than something like a 7018, earning them a nickname like "Devil Rods". 60-Series can require less surface prep though, so they have some uses, not as broad as 7018, but some.
I have at home 2 different stainless stick rod ,Nickle rod for cast , 7018 , 7014 , 9018 , and 6010 all the average home owner needs is 6013 ,, 6011 and some stainless rods for weird shit like pitchfork tines and cast
HOW NOT* TO weld !! 6013 is not a "fast-freeze" rod like 6010/6011, nor does it have a cellulosic flux, so "whip and pause" will likely do more harm than good.
No doubt textbook accurate. But will it hold? Even a bad weld is fit for purpose in 99.9999999% of circumstances. If you're building the next space shuttle I sure hope you ain't learning how on youtube. Heck, I'm not even sure why either of us are here on this video, we both clearly know how to weld.
Have you ever seen how tank sheet are welded at the ends of the sheets to form a ring? Pretty much the same only “DownHill”at a very high amperage with a root of a smaller rod then a cover with a larger size both using the same amperage. Thicker sheets at the bottom of the tank then then next Ring is stacked on top of that shifting the vertical seam to the center of the bottom ring, the the horizontal seam gets welded after fitting it and they keep stacking as the go up with thinner sheets. They can go up a hundred feet , Now think of the pressures at the bottom of the tanks! pressure is H=(constant) D It works well or you couldn’t have your bowl of cereal in the morning.All cereal mills have tanks. This is exactly the same principle. I did it for two years as a Tankie because boilermakers would come out to do it, I am a retired Union Iron worker of 30 years. Oh, it works well!
@@craiglekin9676 well done in surviving the trade, Yes that style can work, but it's not a tested procedure, has it been x-rated, MPI, destructive tested? It will not make the grade for any pressure vessel or structural weld. Nevermind a hazard category vessel
Really guys? How is rod sizes measured in the US? 5/32" is almost 4mm a 4 mm OK48.00/7018 rod needs at least 140A to work smooth and will burn through that 1mm steel in no time.
@@numba1punta110 Yeah thanks, that makes more sense that would be something like a 2-2.5mm rod here. I just thought you might measure the width of the rods in some other way.
@@user-xe6jy4bv3x хреновый по тому что в самом начале прожег металл, это что за сварка если метал сжег в начале. Покажи мастер класс свари ржавый метал, ребята вот чему вам надо учиться могли заварить ржавый метал считай что ты уже спец.
I am far from being a professional welder, but I really question using whip and pause with 6013? It seems like a prime way of creating slag inclusions in the bead. I have only used whip and pause with 6010 and 6011.
Yeah you don't use the whip when you use 6013 you start the weld like a 6010 then you bend it so that the tip of your Rod is at like 10 to 15° and you hold still and it makes a little smooth weld like flux core
I've never done it in pulse everybody I know and everything I know just says constant current somewhere around 70 amps for 1/8 Rod or something like that
It was presentable and looked solid. He didn't stack any dimes but the metal being so thin and him stick welding moving fast it's good enough in an industrial setting.
За один проход не вари и всё получется. Ставишь ток 80а. Затем по всей длине шва ставишь хоотично точки. Заполняешь по всей длине точками весь шов остовляя между ними 1- 0.5 мм. Когда шов изтыкан точками. Лёгким движением смахивашь шлак. К этому моменту и метал и стержень достаточно прогрет. Перекрываешь сплошным швом и всё красиво. 10лет непрерывного стажа. Есть ешё один секрет как варить без чашуйчатый шов на тонком металле.
Congratulations for the initiative. Just an observation. He's posting this video is not for welding experts. This video is for beginners. So, who is not a beginner, look for a welding expert to criticize. This welding is for hobbyists who want to have fun in the backyard on weekends and in their spare time. Just to reflect.
Как узнать правильность сварки, если шлак отбивается с трудом, то это перегрев метала и не качественный корявый шов, шлак должен слетать от прикосновения.
Почему сразу ложный ампераж? Вы забыли, что еще напряжение на выходе у каждого сварочника разное и из-за этого может и не прожигать. Плюс еще с какой скоростью вести электрод - также зависит прогрев металла.
@@user-tg1ru3lg3p Так то я согласен, но в угл трубы профильной, реально варить то проще, тем более в начале ролика он показал разные соединения вроде как. И когда он выставлял ампераж я подумал про то что надо выставлять 60-80, он выставил 75, я бы выставил поменьше у меня скорость сварки поменьше, но я бы варил с меньшим разбегом. Так что вроде и ты прав вроде и тот чел прав) Каждый по своему в общем)
man, just take 1 electrode and crush the coating with a hammer, put it between the 2 tubings and there you go, weld over it, or you can use it like if you were tig welding.
Filled in many 1/4-1/2 cracks with 7018 3/16 rod with a crushed 1/8th rod. Many bosses have no clue when i say im tigging with stick to what im referring to. If you cant fill a 1 inch hole with 7018 rod set at 115 you aint a welder.
Mejor en modo de punteo y un poco más de amp. Tendría más profundidad la soldadura no castiga mucho tu máquina no sobrecalientas el material ocuparía menos disco de devaste para luego eliminar la Soldadura etc. Saludos de México gracias
You are never going to get a decent result stick welding on 1mm steal you just can't get it hot enough without blowing holes in it. Either TIG or MIG would produce a much better result.
Dry rod very important, if just an occasional welder, 'warm' you rods with a torch a bit. A copper slug in the end of the tube or a copper plate under thin material will help prevent burn through. Not a very impressive a weld. Weld one end a half inch, turn around and weld from the other end to help prevent burn through at the final.
I do this. Building a smoker out of cheap trash with the cheapest harbor freight welder,. This works great. Anyone that doesn't like my work is welcome to try and hitch your truck up and pull one of my welds apart.
Interesting but I wonder about penetration or whether the weld pool is just laying on top of the steel, maybe not. I would just keep doing a small weld then lifting the rod for a second or two for the weld pool to cool a bit then another small weld. That's worked for me welding thin steel many times and at least there is some penetration. As far as blowing through, penetration and slag inclusion is concerned with thin steel I would say it's all about timing
@Мистер Икc раз уж на то пошло, тонкий металл хорошо варить LB-52 любого диаметра. Плюс ещё в гараже лежат 2 пачки электродов ESAB 3,2 (не помню марку), которые хоть и основные, но варят получше рутиловых. По крайней мере я ими практически без прожогов профильную трубу встык варил, в то время как МР-3 (Ф2мм и Ф3мм) и УОНИ 13/55 (Ф3мм) стабильно делали то же самое, что на первых кадрах видео.
Esta bien yo corto el arco o cambio los polos para que la pieza a soldar no reciba el calor a ser de un 1mm y lo reciba electrodo 1mm o 1,2mm el electrodo a 40 a 50Amperios muy sutil un saludo y gracias por ss vídeos constructivos.Aqui desde Vizcaya Portugalete.
I can give you a better tip than the 6013 Rod first of all I love that 6013 Rod it's not a deep penetrating Rod but if you want to weld thin material you get you a 3/32 6011 rod and put it on negative polarity and you will be able to weld the thinnest of materials
6011 is a quick freeze rod, and will crack under dynamic loading. The proper method is 3/32" 7018 rod set at 65A, making 1/2" stitches to prevent overheating. Using a low angle of travel and setting arc force very low will also help.
@@truthspace5525 except 7018 doesn't penetrate its a surfacing rod. And yes 6011 and 6013 are infact a weaker rod in terms of tensile strength and shear strength. However 6011 and 6013 burn hotter therefore burn deeper.
@@MasterDreadnought89 You don't want to penetrate much when welding thin gauge steel. But the low-hydrogen 7018 provides ductility, by reducing hydrogen embrittlement. The welds look nicer too. You're never supposed to use 6010 or 6011 for anything structural.
yeah, a gasless mig is a good investment if you've got a bunch of projects that need welding throughout the year. you can get them fairly cheep if you look around or even a good second hand one. they even work outside in light winds. but this is only if you work with thin stuff all the time. if it's over 1.5mm and you're a decent welder you can just use stick and a thin rod doing 25mm runs and waiting for the metal to cool in between runs. just remember to keep a short arc and you should do fine. the longer an arc the hotter she gets and the easier it is to blow a hole in the work..
For this kind of stuff, specially when galvanized I use SS 312 3/32 rods, sometimes negative, most of the time positive with a good small inverter. Although these rods are expensive there are advantages; very low amps, very nice welds, no spatter and the "glass" pops by itself so no need of cleaning. The welds are ductile and extremely strong.
ach komm schon Kumpel , Du weißt das JEDE Schlacke sich selbst löst , wenn Du schweißen kannst , es ist zumeist zu wenig Ampere , die die Schlacke mit der Naht unmöglich macht ....hämmern bis die Schlacke weg ist . Mit ein bischen mehr Ampere wäre die schlacke womöglich von Selbst abgegangen , beim ABKÜHLEN . Im Höchstfall mußte Ich mal neben der Naht mit dem Hammer schlagen , damit die Schlacke weg ist . Ich kenne anhand Deiner Beschreibung "GLAS" gleich , welche Zubringung Du meinst . Ich mag oder mochte es auch immer , wenn der Job das Schweißen ist und nicht das verputzen der Naht . Die Elektrode macht ja soviel aus , ob es Spaß macht oder ARBEIT ist :-) Ich mag die thyssen Elektroden , die Wir auf der Werft benutzten - Im Grunde ist die Beschreibung Deiner SS 312 3/32 , wie die Nähte daraus entstehen , die Gleiche Geschichte , die Ich von Nähten erzählen könnte . Also Ich habe mitunter zugesehen , ob die Schlacke sich alleine löst, es war Mir wichtig , weil Ich Null Bock drauf hatte , den Pikkelhammer zu verwenden. Das verzinkte mußt Du doch sowieso wegbrennen , um überhaupt zu schweißen - Ich glaube Deine Elektroden magst Du , weil sie extrem gut zünden , auch schon bei niedriger Ampere zahl , als 40ampere pro mm Elektrode . Verglaste Schlacke sind doch zumeist EDELSTAHLelektroden , also beim allgemeinen Baustahl Schweißelektroden war die Schlacke zumeist so , wie man es kennt und nicht verglast?
lots of comments here saying this is all wrong. But I don't see anything telling us what would be right. I'm a mug diy been doing it odd times for about 10 years. Done may two weeks continuous work over that time if you add it all up. At a guess. I still can't weld worth a damn but I can put two bits of metal together that I can't break apart with a sledge hammer etc.. so that does me as a job here at home. But overall it is still a great mystery to me though I've watched dozens of videos and read books and tried hard to practice properly. Have a cheap stick machine and a cheap MIG machine. For 1mm like that I'd have to use the MIG and tack, tack, tack. I find trying to run a bead the metal just gets hotter and hotter as you continue and eventually you burn through. the whole thing is more an art than a mechanical 'just do it like this' thing. how they get machines to do it has me beat considering all that. A machine can't practice 'art'. I get big problems just striking an arc sometimes and with different rods. And burning through, of course. And following the join - can't see where I'm going sometimes. And big ugly welds with heaps too much metal on them. And a diy guy like me has a shed full of opened packets of rods maybe years old - how buggered they are I don't know.. we just use 'em anyway but I don't suppose it makes the job easier for us. And home diy welding is often a different job every time - I mean different metals to join, two different composition steels to join, and different thickness - sticking one of those 1mm SHS tubes to a 1/4" plate for instance. And all kinds of different positions. Yep. There's nothing simple about it. It's an art, I don't care what anyone says or how many videos they make showing 'how easy it is'. So all the critics of this vid, sure, it's wrong, okay - but get in there and tell us what's right ! If you can.
If you’ll notice, at the start of the video where he shows his holes that blew through, they were all on flats or end cuts. Then he demonstrated by welder 2 corners together. Unless your really dumb, you never blow through on a corner anyways. There is more metal to disperse the heat. Granted, he may not have blown through on the flat using this horrific technique anyways, simply because he’s moving so fast there there is little penetration. He’s just working with the tip. You need to get balls deep for it to really hold strong.
@@user-xe7cg1vn4u Нет провара. Автор совершенно не чувствует металлы, не различает шлак от металла. На видео видно что идёт не сам процесс равномерного наплавления, а просто наложение поверх ещё одного слоя пористого металла в перемешку со шлакам.
@@user-xe7cg1vn4u на просторах ютуба что не покажи всегда найдутся диванные эксперты и обгадят. Поэтому делай как знаешь и умеешь а жизнь подкорректирует.
@@505aleksey505 а он скорее всего никогда не сталкивался с этим пройессом вот и не видит , а когда ему вот такой горе сварщик слепит конструкцию и та развалится желательно на голову , вот тогда может и поймет чего если в живых останется ...
Soldando así le queda una costura muy alta con mucho material después hasta más tiempo en dasbastar . Aconsejo soldar en zig zag es más rápido y queda un cordón prolijo
If you want porosity, inclusions, and cold shuts you can weld like this, if you really want to weld you pick a rod that fits what your welding or a process that is better for heat and puddle control
This is the only way to weld thin metal with "Stick". It allows time for the weld pool to cool. It allows slag inclusion, but a blow through is even more harmful to any structural strength. MIG does a better job, but thin metal really needs TIG.
Судя по тому как ты вёл электрод при сварке, сразу понятно, что шлак и металл ты не отличаешь! Зачем эта епля, если можно аккуратно отрывом заварить. Но если хочется без отрыва, ставишь электрод прямо перпендикулярно и в одно плавное, но быстрое движение ложишь красивый и надёжный сварочный шов🤷♂️
Сварено-это громко сказано,так,насрано.Возьми электрод 2мм,кинь минус на деталь,чтоб меньше грелась,зачисть гальванику.А лучше возьми МИГ нормальный вместо электрода.
![Eminem - Fuel (Shady Edition) feat. Westside Boogie & GRIP [Official Audio]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/k1OquBida9s/mqdefault.jpg)
Сварка происходит на стенке профиля. Даже на двух. А это совсем другое нежели сварка двух листов металла толщиной в один миллиметр.
Когда лист свариваешь то да тяжелее в сто раз. А здесь сварка происходит на углах профиля вертикальные стенки недают провалится сварочной ванне.
@@user-bj6nu1he4r я вот бак мтз варил, горловину пополам пиленную, таким макаром сразу все прогарает, прихватками, обстукиваешь, потом между прихватками, обстукиваешь, потом уже варишь, правда тройкой варил, а сплошником и пол см не пройдешь дыра
Alexej Melnikov кто ж варит бак электродом да еще и тройкой. Еще скажи переменкой варил
@@skunkhunt4290 хз, ресанта, я самоучка;)
@@skunkhunt4290 а если нету полуавтомат и 2 электродов ? Та и тройкой варить будем
Провари также, но только пластины, а не уголы профиля, хотелось бы сравнить результат)) прогарает как правило отрезаный край а не угол..
Ты прав. Я двойкой проволку держу между электродом и профили и варю. Как газосварка.
Можно не пластины, а такой же профиль соединить торцами. Но думаю что это не для сварщика 80го лвла, много времени уйдет пока качественный дубль выйдет😄😄😄
Всё правильно, согласен с тобой
@@nton2228 доброго...... и своё ,,пять копеек впишу...'' ,,,Но думаю что это не для сварщика 80го лвла, много времени уйдет...''''' у так наз.. 80дисятников....:) для такого = ЕСТЬ И ПОЛУАВТОМАТ! И АРГОНОДУГОВАЯ! === рекомендую!!!
Именно! Стенку 1.5мм я вообще варю на 40А электродами 2мм с частым отрывом, иначе 100% дыра. Грязный кликбейт, а не видео.
As a person who has never welded anything, but with an interest in these kind of videos, You show blowout on the flat sections, then proceed to butt join two corners, which i am guessing would be able to take more amperage/heat anyway, But having watched others weld thin material like this at work, They have used the one stick, and if it blew out anything, lowered the amperage of the weld until it was set right. Now for an outsider to take this kind of video seriously, you should have welded in exactly the same flats as you blewout in the starting pictures. Happy and pleased to be corrected by those in the know.
You're waaay overthinking this kiddo. Take a deep breath
This, exactly, I was about to say the same but you said it better
From my experience, if you do what he did on the flat surface on this thin material, pretty guaranteed to burnt through. Other videos i ve gathered show: switching polarity to dc negative, and using a dotted technique rather than one continuous motion
I'm a sheetmetal worker. You are spot on CD3008, And also corners have basically a root gap due to radius of corner that hides the slag inclusion when he keeps running back over by 20 mm. Personally i'd have grabbed the TIG for that weld anyday so welding 1mm by stick is irrelevant to me.
I just Tig everything.
Ok I’m a welder myself first of all he welded the two tubes on the length side which gives him the thickness of the side I was expecting him to weld the end of the tubes
Exactly what I was thinking. Plus it gives him a nice valley to lay the bead in too. Not super impressive.
Im still not sure what hes trying to say... im mean using lower amerage and a smaller rod to weld thin stuff isnt really a welding secret.. now take a 6010 crank it up, and run really fast, to weld thin stuff.. mhhh.. rolling over a gtaw rod to take up the heat.. mhhh.. this.. super mhhh..
@@johnjacobjingle8302 just what I was thinking, try 3/32 6010 throw that 6013,hobby ass rod away
And no gas/aluminium inside the profile to prevent burnthrough/cooling ?
Oh yeah
Тонкий металл варю с "отрывом" ток 80-120 по настроению))Ребята кто начинает варить...главное правило - не бойтесь!Все получится 100процентов
Спасибо за поддержку!
так мы и боимси-варим-прожигаем-заплавляем - смотрим в букварь, убавляем -прибавляем ток-меняем типы электродов-меняем полярность)
На ресанте я на тройке больше 60 и не ставлю, на 120 уже можно резать смело железо 4 мм а то и больше
Я тройкой ок46 на 60 амперах варил тонюсенькие крепления под торпеду на машине. Нормально получилось.
Золотые слова...я тоже все никак не могу себе позволить взять эту вещь ...и заняться сваркой...
На пачке с электродами написаны все секреты! И толщина свариваемого металла, и сила тока на конкретно взятый электрод. А на некоторых даже график построен ))))
Где ж такие электроды взять?
Максимум, что видел я-это полярность, толщина и прочая, стандартная информация
Прикол в том что он сваривает не 1 мм, в стык 2 профиля сварить много ума не надо, показал бы на 2 пластинах в стык👎 а так я еще в шараге умел
@@VelikiyRamzes ничего не нужно, такое соеденение обычной мркой варится на раз👍 если сложно бери электрод 2 мм тогда точно получится
При таком соединении трудно провалиться)
Жульничество. Положить две трубы рядом-там теплоёмкость намного больше.
Каким образом, не понял?
@@user-ub7nh2ec7q что бы было понятней,возьмите две металлические полосы 20 мм,(это будут стенки профтрубы),положите их одну на другую,начните варить их сбоку и попробуйте прожечь.
@@user-to7tk5tc4c ааа понял))) я думал вы метод как не прожечь предлагаете)
Wow the only thing accurate about this video is the title. The final result shows exactly why no one should show you the secret to that weld.
ruclips.net/video/GlLKL7r66iE/видео.html
Keep welding like that and your getting a grinder for Christmas!😊
No doubt . Play stupid games win stupid prizes
This technique was used for the purpose of welding thin, 1mm, metal with an arc welder to avoid over heating. I learnt something, so will experiment to get that Christmas gift.
My dad said...if you need a grinder...you are not a welder...you are a grinder ....🤣🤣
@@truth-Hurts375 Exactly,they´re just stacking up useless metal.
Ignore everything you just seen. Grab the 7018 rod 3/32 size set the machine at 85 and weld it. If it pleases you tip it a little down hand. You get a beautiful bead. If you can’t pull that off leave it to an actual welder.
I’m an actual welder, aws certified ( not that it matters ) it’s 1mm thick, 7018 would not work on this at 85 amps even, maybe on dcen with a whip and pause, but I would be using a 1/16 6013 at 40 amps and whip and pause.
Won't work worth a crap with an AC-only welder.
7.2 million views in just over a week. According to many commenters, this guy can't weld but he certainly can title a video to get people to watch.
So true , it got me to watch at leats half of it
Honestly kinda angry I'm here
@@memory_null RUclips welders in a nutshell.
E6011 or 13 is basically a drag rod. In this demo you don't need to weave at all. Just start and constantly pull the rod back making a smooth bead. You can use multiple weaves if you want. Just stay with how you start all the way. You do have to go back and forth on a root pass.
That's not welding, that's a crime against "iron" :)
😂😂😂
😏🤭🤭🤭🤣
He,,,,,,, oops “gender neutral” THEY need a mig welder, so much better than stick. Though it does have its place and purpose. But not for that thin shit.
Think that’s bad come to the philipines they don’t even wear hoods while they weld
@@geneticdisorder1900 not better than stick at all and this guys is trolling
i see a welding video, i click for the inevitable shit talk comments, gold every time
This type of video needs a healthy amount of shit talking, imagine a mechanic saying "your breaks are worn out? Well just hit them 3 times with a hammer and they are as good as new"
I mean, in this case, the weld really isn't that good. He wouldn't get a pass if this were a test.
That’s because there’s both a lot of shitty welders, and a lot of shitty welders that are seeing a weld shittier than theirs
@@randallradke1279 🤣👍🏻
Naught, my friend considered himself a competent welder but everyone called him pigeon shit!
That might pass the drop test, knock it off your welding table and if it stays intact, she's good to go. Not likely going to meet any certification standards beyond that though, but if you are just bubblegumming two pieces of metal together at home, for an non critical project, looks good to me.
Con el 6010 o 6011 o aquellos electrodos que no tengan escoria....si puedes ir para adelante y para atrás....pero solo con determinados electrodos....!!!
Y sólo con máquinas de cc....o inverters
all i can say is, I don't do that dragging thing so far for that thickness just need low amp and right weld apply. you already choose the side corner of the square tube and that part is thicker than the middle part.
there is no problem with that weld if you're using that for your projects but you cannot pass in welding test with that technique bro. just saying.
Nothing wrong with that weld or technique. M.Sorrell, BOILERMAKERS local 26
Agree with you both. Will not pass in a modern (American) classroom and nothing wrong here... Most of America's existing metal infrastructure work, that we walk, ride, or more importantly, move our good on (trains and trucks/intermodals) all look like this; and they usually work well beyond thier life expectancy including error margins.
Not all metal joining is art work, nor does it need to be to serve it's function.
#teachnewdogsoldtricks
Я,как сварщик,в шоке от таких умельцев)Ток,чуть меньше и веди .называется монтажный шов,аккуратный,красивый.А тут...
Эта техника сварки называется "чешуя дракона" и очень популярна среди дилетантов
Согласен . Да и поставил он трубы друг к другу , а под « швом « ещё стенка трубы ( там не 1мм) и вероятность прожечь меньше - это какое-то шулерство .
" шов,аккуратный,красивый" обычно бракованный, а насратый для дилетанта не красивый с потёками внутрь и только такой проходит рентген.
От нас это скрывали 😁это мировой заговор ☝. Ещё один секрет. Переверни электрод и он уберëт всë, что насрал 😁.
Электродом 2мм и током 100а , можно было сварить всё намного красивее и нормальным швом восьмёркой, тем более тут угол.
Проблема начинающих - провар, качество шва. Не плохо бы показать распил сваренных детале, с распилом по шву.
А что там проверять, там все равно корень не проверишь
@@ДиноДинович Лаборатория проверяет всеми способами )))
The example is very good for those who learn new tricks in welding.
But from minute 1:50 of the movie, it's another weld you made. It's not that welding done in the film.
And it's not particularly good either
@@victorlunabba561 I didn't want to discourage him.
Most of the time, if you come back over the red weld, the metal will puncture, if it is thin.
@@victorlunabba561 that was polite 😂😂
Все конечно прекрасно, но это не сварка 1мм металла) тепло очень хорошо уходит в ребро, при таком расположении деталей шов и аккуратнее можно сделать). Показывая прожоги открытого металла, противопоставляя свой шов по ребру, такое себе сравнение).
Точно-точно... :-) :-) :-)
Надо же как то просмотры набирать
Та, я такое любым электродом заварю , а вот по кромке и 1 мм. пусть попробует, там кроме всего еще сразу деформировать листы будет.
@@vitalybaldgi6984 это да... И на 75ти точно не прокатит....🤔
I went to Lincoln Electric Co. Welding school 40 years ago. I spent many hours burning 6010 rod using the "whip" technique. It is all in the wrist movement and watching the puddle not the arc. Whip the rod away letting the puddle cool than return slightly off center to the puddle.
So which part was the secret? Using smaller electrodes, turning the amps down, walking the arc back and forth over the slag, or passing far too quickly to prevent any kind of penetration?
The answer is yes. This is quick and dirty, acceptable welds for non-critical purposes.
@@firesurfer not acceptable to me, lacking penetration, it'd need grinding to smooth it out, rubbish technique, I don't blow holes in metal when welding either with metallic arc, mig or tig, why do you...
@@michaelbritain5546 This is quick and dirty welding. I don't believe it should be used for anything important. No way should you grind these welds.
Backyard weld
@@firesurfer If you can do the welds in nearly the same time but instead of quick and dirty, nice and clean everybody would choose nice and clean...
What do you think?
Водила неопытному сварщику: "привари.., а я дома проволокой хорошо прикручу".
Ты мне прихвати, а я.....
Ах ха ха!
Красиво,
Кратко,
Чётко,
По существу...
Как есть на самом!
(Что очень печально)
А, Я дома нормально приматаю
Не "хорошо",а намертво!
Lower your temp to 60-65, don't use a "weep and pause" motion, just a straight line. You're using a 6013 Rod, NOT a 6011 or a 6010 !!! 6013 deposit more material than any other Rod so a "weep and pause" is contra=producent. Keep a very tight Arc and if it goes out, just turn your Amps a little bit up until you find the perfect Current settings. I'm a welding veteran who's been doing this for over 50 years. I KNOW WHAT I'M TALKING ABOUT. Try it. IF YOU TRY IT AND DO IT LIKE I'VE SAID, YOU WON'T NEED TO CHIP IT WITH A HAMMER... IT WILL PEEL ITSELF!! And you will notice the bead lines looking like a stack of dimes.
YUP YUP
Don't drag you electrode so much, keeping the rod more vertical or 90deg to the material, this will give you a flatter weld evey time,
Go the 6010 next time, that will sort out the "so called welders"
Everyone's a welder until the weld test becomes a requirement.
vertical down may be,very low amps
Also more vertical will help to not spread to much head at a point were here dont want to have one, very essential if you try to not burn very thin materials!
Guaranteed incomplete fusion with that technique. Not to mention, the finish looks like ass.
Keep in mind that you cannot do much better on 1mm steel with a stick welder. It's probably strong enough weld for most of the things, as you really cannot use such weak steel tube on any demanding application anyways. I have done similar welding on thin material and it has held up just fine even though the weld was butt-ugly (much uglier than on this video). Of course I would not do that in any critical applications.
He shouldn't have just shown the motion of going back and forth. He should have shown that you have to "whip" the arc outta the puddle to let it solidify a little.
@@TheMahtimursu if I had a nickel for every time I heard someone trying to rationalize a crap weld by saying, “I know it looks bad but it’s good enough for what I’m doing”, I’d be retired twice by now. The truth is, with all things being equal, a uniform weld is much stronger than one that isn’t and experience is the secret ingredient in it. So if it looks bad, it IS bad!
Tail pipes and that thin stuff I get out the gas tanks and coat hangers.
@@TheMahtimursu i guess you did not have enough experience to weld.
Прожоги показывал на плоскости, а секрет на деталях с нижней подпорной стенкой, диз однозначно
А не проще подобрать нужный диаметр электрода и подобрать соответствующий ток, и сварить красиво, и аккуратно.
Should do a cut-through to check penetration. Look to be just laying a bead on the surface without getting a puddle going, no penetration into the SHS. This will separate without too much trouble, very little strength there. A weld should be stronger than the steel it's joining, this is vastly weaker.
Its 1mm wall thickness how strong do you need it? The weld will be just fine. Trust me
@@mode1charlie170 you got that right
@@mode1charlie170 ...stronger than the parent material, thought I made that clear. Never trust a person who says "trust me". This bead is poorly laid with extremely high potential for contamination/porosity.
@@masondegaulle5731 the weld also looks fairly cold. Not sure but, i believe i see cold lap the whole bead.
Yeah I would kick it up another ten and key hole it ... that may have been thin but the metal is stacked vertically on a provided bevel with no spacing so in reality it was 1/8 stock
9 million views, in one week, for this. Okay, I can see why the end is nigh...
I was honestly more curious to see what they wad talking about and yet here we are calling somthing a secret that i was taught in basic welding in highschool
I'm going to start showing videos if he gets that many views
@@ironman332
Right? Or is it that he just knows something about giggles algorithms?
Did you catch the red checkmark? Fantastic editing, too😂
that's why my father always said not to watch when someones welding?
I HAVE BEEN WELDING SINCE THE AGE OF 13, THIS DEMO IS LAUGHABLE ! EVERY GOOD WELDER HAS THEIR OWN TECNIQUES, ALL TECHNIQUES ARE NOT THE SAME, EVERY WELDER HAS A SKILL DEVELOPED OVER MUCH TIME . THE METHOD SHOWN HAS TOO MUCH SLAG INCLUSION, THAT IS BECAUSE OF BACKING UP ON THE WELDING PUDDLE ! I AM EIGHTY THREE AND KNOW A FEW THINGS ABOUT WELDING !
Congrats for you, and You have understand that millenials somtimes misleading with videos just.for likes. I have a proyect Making a chan el with real knowledge and real welders like You. Sorry for textbook i can welding can't Fix this
70 years welding .. you are the one who we should listen to.. thanks a lot
Perfect response.
I would have said if you're blowing holes in the material start with turning your amps down hahaha
Поздравляю 83 это срок
I am welder to , good comment mate.
running up and down your beads you have a very high chance of trapping slag in your weld.
I don't believe the welding shown in action produced the finished product they were chipping.
The action shot I was trying to figure out what the hell they were trying to do.
Pixel_Geist
Nothing wrong with slags😝
Unless of course your whole weld is slag.
At a job I had In 1980s building big machines I used to just love it when we would be cleaning them up getting ready to paint and you would come across an unchipped weld made by one of those
' expert ' welders in the shop,
' my welds are all perfect and don't need to chip the slag off ', and you would then chip the slag only to find underneath the beautiful looking slag cover the two parts weren't even connected.
In other words their perfect weld was all slag.
Simple illustration, big on comprehension, I learned more on this vid than the other dozens, 👍👍 thanks!!
This is more like “how not to pass a welding test” lol
melted is melted
If you're doing a weld test and you're using 6013 you're going to fail your will test cuz we only test structural and pipeline and we need penetration lots of that 6013 does not penetrate XD
@@dragofill2808 I'm 3F certified go xD elsewhere child
@@dragofill2808 Oh damn, your poser ass got called out by someone with ACTUAL experience.
@@nolaughing5087 I have no idea what’s going on. I am not a welder, I am awake at midnight watching a silent video with half the comments in Russian. Can someone explain what’s going on?
Может я ошыбся но какждая деталь имеет по 1мм в стик они увеличили толщину уже 2мм,описание неверное)
Согласен на все 100%
так то тепло уходило по всей высоте стенки. там 25мм:)
Владимир это просто тухлые понты, чтобы денег на ютубе заработать. Есть люди, которые спецом плодят такого рода ролики. Мы на них ведемся и смотрим, а владелец получает бабосы.
тонкий меал надо сваривать большым током сотрывом дуги и следить чтобы не перегреть метал
Да, ошибок много допустил.....
Ive been a welder for 40 years if hes a welder im an astronaut
Yeah that's pretty rough to see 🤣 I've only just finished 3rd year apprentice and they're cleaner welcome to the space force I guess
He a grinder.
Yeah that was pretty painful to watch😊
Your the camera man the took the photo of Neal Armstrong's first step
There are welders and grinders...........
Как опытные сварщики говорят "насрал")))) да и не опытному видно что как то так....
Лепило
Пойдет
Та не гони! Сам и так не можешь?
Я вот ваще не сварщик, но согласен
@@SpiritOfChina опытный лепило )
Isso sim é um vídeo com extrema didática, explicou tudo sem dizer uma palavra
Um gesto fale mais que mil palavras. Ele usou a linguagem universal , como nos filmes e desenho mudos onde todos entendem.
Certo. Mas não disse a bitola do eletrodo. É de 2,0 mm ou 1,5 mm ou 1,0 mm como sugere o título ?
60-Series rods(6010, 6011, 6013 etc...) are generally good for thin-wall stuff like this. 60-Series are fast-freezing rods, they will solidify faster than 70-Series will, making them ideal for quick/dirty work for sheet steel or roots on pipe. 60-Series, especially 6013, like to throw a lot of fire, far more than something like a 7018, earning them a nickname like "Devil Rods". 60-Series can require less surface prep though, so they have some uses, not as broad as 7018, but some.
I have at home 2 different stainless stick rod ,Nickle rod for cast , 7018 , 7014 , 9018 , and 6010 all the average home owner needs is 6013 ,, 6011 and some stainless rods for weird shit like pitchfork tines and cast
HOW NOT* TO weld !!
6013 is not a "fast-freeze" rod like 6010/6011, nor does it have a cellulosic flux, so "whip and pause" will likely do more harm than good.
No doubt textbook accurate. But will it hold? Even a bad weld is fit for purpose in 99.9999999% of circumstances. If you're building the next space shuttle I sure hope you ain't learning how on youtube. Heck, I'm not even sure why either of us are here on this video, we both clearly know how to weld.
I've never done it in that method I was taught to do it in a small circular motion.
Notice he didn't show the inside of the tubes.
@@make425 since he welded the seam of two tubes together he was not welding on 1mm anymore
I see why no one ever told us this secret. 😂
Thank you for the "how NOT to weld series"
Have you ever seen how tank sheet are welded at the ends of the sheets to form a ring? Pretty much the same only “DownHill”at a very high amperage with a root of a smaller rod then a cover with a larger size both using the same amperage. Thicker sheets at the bottom of the tank then then next Ring is stacked on top of that shifting the vertical seam to the center of the bottom ring, the the horizontal seam gets welded after fitting it and they keep stacking as the go up with thinner sheets. They can go up a hundred feet , Now think of the pressures at the bottom of the tanks!
pressure is H=(constant) D
It works well or you couldn’t have your bowl of cereal in the morning.All cereal mills have tanks.
This is exactly the same principle. I did it for two years as a Tankie because boilermakers would come out to do it, I am a retired Union Iron worker of 30 years.
Oh, it works well!
@@craiglekin9676 well done in surviving the trade,
Yes that style can work, but it's not a tested procedure, has it been x-rated, MPI, destructive tested?
It will not make the grade for any pressure vessel or structural weld.
Nevermind a hazard category vessel
Góc hộp là 3 mm rồi
Never had a problem welding 1mm with 7018, just use 5/32 at about 100 Amp. Move medium pace and u will get a beautiful weld.
on thin stuff normally I use 7014 3/32 if I am out of gas
5/32? 😂
Really guys? How is rod sizes measured in the US? 5/32" is almost 4mm a 4 mm OK48.00/7018 rod needs at least 140A to work smooth and will burn through that 1mm steel in no time.
@@hnorrstrom I think he might have meant 3/32.
@@numba1punta110 Yeah thanks, that makes more sense that would be something like a 2-2.5mm rod here.
I just thought you might measure the width of the rods in some other way.
Об этом секрете нам не рассказали, потому что секрет этот хреновый.
Почему хреновый, покажи свой вариант
Ампераж норм но на нисение шва не очень
@@user-xe6jy4bv3x хреновый по тому что в самом начале прожег металл, это что за сварка если метал сжег в начале.
Покажи мастер класс свари ржавый метал, ребята вот чему вам надо учиться могли заварить ржавый метал считай что ты уже спец.
@@GeschichteNerd ок вызов принят
@@user-ec7tl4yk4w я не про качество сварки, а про ее секретность. Обычная рядовая сварка.
👍Добавляйте в каждое название видео: трюк, секрет, 80 lvl, мастер класс
После этого вы не сможете спать так как это взорвало интернет и их боялись даже Чеченцы .
الطريقة اللي تمنيت اتعلمها من البداية ، فعلا اصعب لحام على 1mm لن تكون مبدعا حتى تنجح في هذا المقاس ♡
А теперь одну к другой торцом приварите 😂
А что сложного?
@@user-bq8he2xt2w А то,что там реально будет 1 мм,а не 20 с двух сторон вниз.
Я так понимаю торец к торцу только с отрывом?
@@xxgxx5293 Как вариант может электродом 1,6мм реально без отрыва, но что-то подсказывает там будет валик только на одной кромке образовываться.
@@xxgxx5293 можно и без отрыва, можно даже Е42 , с током 90А. Главное чтобы руки не тряслись.
Yeah thats easy
The corner of tubular you can fullweld it
But metal sheet without corner it is hard to fullweld
Exactly. I want to see him stick weld a butt join lol
I've stacked tacks to fill an exhaust hole on a two stroke farm bike, it ain't terribly hard to do. Cold, like 40-50 amps, keep chasing it vertically
Also exactly! There's not the way to weld thin sheet metal
I remember welding like this while learning how to weld for the very first time.
Thats it,period !!
I am far from being a professional welder, but I really question using whip and pause with 6013? It seems like a prime way of creating slag inclusions in the bead. I have only used whip and pause with 6010 and 6011.
Yeah you don't use the whip when you use 6013 you start the weld like a 6010 then you bend it so that the tip of your Rod is at like 10 to 15° and you hold still and it makes a little smooth weld like flux core
I've never done it in pulse everybody I know and everything I know just says constant current somewhere around 70 amps for 1/8 Rod or something like that
That's the exact opposite of a good weld
Ikr
If you ignore the slag inclusion and low penetration its fine.
It was presentable and looked solid. He didn't stack any dimes but the metal being so thin and him stick welding moving fast it's good enough in an industrial setting.
Looks like hammered shit if you ask me
@@jamesgodwin4437 maybe at a mill but not on pipe
Preheat the rod on a test piece before laying it into the work. A pre heated rod always cooks better i find.
Bingo !!
За один проход не вари и всё получется. Ставишь ток 80а. Затем по всей длине шва ставишь хоотично точки. Заполняешь по всей длине точками весь шов остовляя между ними 1- 0.5 мм. Когда шов изтыкан точками. Лёгким движением смахивашь шлак. К этому моменту и метал и стержень достаточно прогрет. Перекрываешь сплошным швом и всё красиво. 10лет непрерывного стажа. Есть ешё один секрет как варить без чашуйчатый шов на тонком металле.
Congratulations for the initiative.
Just an observation. He's posting this video is not for welding experts. This video is for beginners. So, who is not a beginner, look for a welding expert to criticize. This welding is for hobbyists who want to have fun in the backyard on weekends and in their spare time. Just to reflect.
Get what you're saying but this is just false info, welding like this is a step in the wrong direction
😂😂 shit weld
0:43 ошибка, галочка красного цвета, а должно быть зелёного 👽
У меня монитор черно-белый, мне пофиг.
Это тоже ,, секрет" не пали контору! 😁
Как узнать правильность сварки, если шлак отбивается с трудом, то это перегрев метала и не качественный корявый шов, шлак должен слетать от прикосновения.
Там две стенки под швом! Вот если бы лист в стык,..... Такой профиль любой проварит, - если "с отрывом"
Pigeon sh*t comes to mind ..
pass me the grinder😂😂😂😂
If that's a hidden secret, you might want to keep it hidden because that's some terrible looking weld.
В таком месте варить в разы проще, это вам не в стык. Ампераж в инверторе ложный, при настоящих 75 ампер всё жжот. Там ампер 50 достаточно(реальных)
Почему сразу ложный ампераж? Вы забыли, что еще напряжение на выходе у каждого сварочника разное и из-за этого может и не прожигать. Плюс еще с какой скоростью вести электрод - также зависит прогрев металла.
@@user-tg1ru3lg3p Так то я согласен, но в угл трубы профильной, реально варить то проще, тем более в начале ролика он показал разные соединения вроде как. И когда он выставлял ампераж я подумал про то что надо выставлять 60-80, он выставил 75, я бы выставил поменьше у меня скорость сварки поменьше, но я бы варил с меньшим разбегом. Так что вроде и ты прав вроде и тот чел прав) Каждый по своему в общем)
man, just take 1 electrode and crush the coating with a hammer, put it between the 2 tubings and there you go, weld over it, or you can use it like if you were tig welding.
Filled in many 1/4-1/2 cracks with 7018 3/16 rod with a crushed 1/8th rod. Many bosses have no clue when i say im tigging with stick to what im referring to. If you cant fill a 1 inch hole with 7018 rod set at 115 you aint a welder.
Mejor en modo de punteo y un poco más de amp. Tendría más profundidad la soldadura no castiga mucho tu máquina no sobrecalientas el material ocuparía menos disco de devaste para luego eliminar la Soldadura etc. Saludos de México gracias
Texas tig done it numerous times on 16ga tubing 1/4 inch gaps works out nice Flux core mig rev polarity works too.,🤔✌️👍
Hope you don't have to grind it flush tho
ага, в конце видно, как он металл не прожег... ТАм же стенки боковые, по факту железо скраю 2 мм если не толще
В конце всегда надо электрод возвращать назад, и на этом движении заканчивать
The things we do in the dark.That's one rough looking mother of a finished weld.
Because he has to run it so cold so he doesn't blow through. I would just tig it and be done.
@@Brianchse I would have done the same but I didn't want to let the secret out of the bag like this guy did. 😤
You are never going to get a decent result stick welding on 1mm steal you just can't get it hot enough without blowing holes in it. Either TIG or MIG would produce a much better result.
Better than your bodge ups Jimmy !
@@Brianchse That was my first thought - Oh a TIG weld, simple, but nope
Dry rod very important, if just an occasional welder, 'warm' you rods with a torch a bit. A copper slug in the end of the tube or a copper plate under thin material will help prevent burn through. Not a very impressive a weld. Weld one end a half inch, turn around and weld from the other end to help prevent burn through at the final.
6013 is a low hydrogen rod
Ин рашн, плиз!
You read my mind.
I do this. Building a smoker out of cheap trash with the cheapest harbor freight welder,. This works great. Anyone that doesn't like my work is welcome to try and hitch your truck up and pull one of my welds apart.
Ты таким способом не скос труб завари а стык скос Я тебе и на 100 омперах 3й электродом любой марки заварю
Это точно, нашёл что показывать.
А я на 150 заварю двойкой китайкой стык в стык
@@user-hy8de3qc5u умничька
Thats the heaviest duty tack weld I've ever seen in my life...
😂 LMMFAO 👍
Interesting but I wonder about penetration or whether the weld pool is just laying on top of the steel, maybe not. I would just keep doing a small weld then lifting the rod for a second or two for the weld pool to cool a bit then another small weld. That's worked for me welding thin steel many times and at least there is some penetration. As far as blowing through, penetration and slag inclusion is concerned with thin steel I would say it's all about timing
Я раньше тоже извращался доказывал себе что могу а потом купил полуавтомат
... я и дальше продолжаю... - для дома хватает :))
Та же херня))
@Мистер Икc раз уж на то пошло, тонкий металл хорошо варить LB-52 любого диаметра. Плюс ещё в гараже лежат 2 пачки электродов ESAB 3,2 (не помню марку), которые хоть и основные, но варят получше рутиловых. По крайней мере я ими практически без прожогов профильную трубу встык варил, в то время как МР-3 (Ф2мм и Ф3мм) и УОНИ 13/55 (Ф3мм) стабильно делали то же самое, что на первых кадрах видео.
I remember my first time welding.
Esta bien yo corto el arco o cambio los polos para que la pieza a soldar no reciba el calor a ser de un 1mm y lo reciba electrodo 1mm o 1,2mm el electrodo a 40 a 50Amperios muy sutil un saludo y gracias por ss vídeos constructivos.Aqui desde Vizcaya Portugalete.
I now have a distinct welding grade one step higher that 'chicken shzit'.
I can give you a better tip than the 6013 Rod first of all I love that 6013 Rod it's not a deep penetrating Rod but if you want to weld thin material you get you a 3/32 6011 rod and put it on negative polarity and you will be able to weld the thinnest of materials
Actually 6013 is a deep penetrating rod (along with 6011). That's why it's used as A ROOT WELD ROD.
6011 is a quick freeze rod, and will crack under dynamic loading. The proper method is 3/32" 7018 rod set at 65A, making 1/2" stitches to prevent overheating. Using a low angle of travel and setting arc force very low will also help.
Во во, и я о том 😁
@@truthspace5525 except 7018 doesn't penetrate its a surfacing rod. And yes 6011 and 6013 are infact a weaker rod in terms of tensile strength and shear strength. However 6011 and 6013 burn hotter therefore burn deeper.
@@MasterDreadnought89
You don't want to penetrate much when welding thin gauge steel. But the low-hydrogen 7018 provides ductility, by reducing hydrogen embrittlement. The welds look nicer too. You're never supposed to use 6010 or 6011 for anything structural.
6013 was originally designed for exactly this purpose weld of thin sheet steel 1 to 3 mm thick
Dont weld the corner of tubular, try to weld the flat surface of the tubular not the corner, the corner is thicker and harder than the flat surface,,
Exactly!
зачем я это смотрел, у меня и сварки то нет )
yeah, a gasless mig is a good investment if you've got a bunch of projects that need welding throughout the year.
you can get them fairly cheep if you look around or even a good second hand one.
they even work outside in light winds.
but this is only if you work with thin stuff all the time. if it's over 1.5mm and you're a decent welder you can just use stick and a thin rod doing 25mm runs and waiting for the metal to cool in between runs. just remember to keep a short arc and you should do fine. the longer an arc the hotter she gets and the easier it is to blow a hole in the work..
For this kind of stuff, specially when galvanized I use SS 312 3/32 rods, sometimes negative, most of the time positive with a good small inverter. Although these rods are expensive there are advantages; very low amps, very nice welds, no spatter and the "glass" pops by itself so no need of cleaning. The welds are ductile and extremely strong.
ach komm schon Kumpel , Du weißt das JEDE Schlacke sich selbst löst , wenn Du schweißen kannst , es ist zumeist zu wenig Ampere , die die Schlacke mit der Naht unmöglich macht ....hämmern bis die Schlacke weg ist . Mit ein bischen mehr Ampere wäre die schlacke womöglich von Selbst abgegangen , beim ABKÜHLEN . Im Höchstfall mußte Ich mal neben der Naht mit dem Hammer schlagen , damit die Schlacke weg ist . Ich kenne anhand Deiner Beschreibung "GLAS" gleich , welche Zubringung Du meinst . Ich mag oder mochte es auch immer , wenn der Job das Schweißen ist und nicht das verputzen der Naht . Die Elektrode macht ja soviel aus , ob es Spaß macht oder ARBEIT ist :-) Ich mag die thyssen Elektroden , die Wir auf der Werft benutzten - Im Grunde ist die Beschreibung Deiner SS 312 3/32 , wie die Nähte daraus entstehen , die Gleiche Geschichte , die Ich von Nähten erzählen könnte . Also Ich habe mitunter zugesehen , ob die Schlacke sich alleine löst, es war Mir wichtig , weil Ich Null Bock drauf hatte , den Pikkelhammer zu verwenden.
Das verzinkte mußt Du doch sowieso wegbrennen , um überhaupt zu schweißen - Ich glaube Deine Elektroden magst Du , weil sie extrem gut zünden , auch schon bei niedriger Ampere zahl , als 40ampere pro mm Elektrode . Verglaste Schlacke sind doch zumeist EDELSTAHLelektroden , also beim allgemeinen Baustahl Schweißelektroden war die Schlacke zumeist so , wie man es kennt und nicht verglast?
I have a little ac/DC Hobart welder. Would this work for that?
When you get galvanize poisoning drink a glass of milk.
Guy with no clue makes a tutorial. Congrats, you're the 1.000.000 in that field
Hahahaahah, agree
Jus smash it in there init
@RUclipsCensorsFreeSpeech Not all the clues, just the clues that know this is a bullshit video. 👍
@RUclipsCensorsFreeSpeech Thanks, I’m not sure I could handle a witty reply. Cheers
@RUclipsCensorsFreeSpeech so why don't you make it then?
lots of comments here saying this is all wrong. But I don't see anything telling us what would be right. I'm a mug diy been doing it odd times for about 10 years. Done may two weeks continuous work over that time if you add it all up. At a guess. I still can't weld worth a damn but I can put two bits of metal together that I can't break apart with a sledge hammer etc.. so that does me as a job here at home.
But overall it is still a great mystery to me though I've watched dozens of videos and read books and tried hard to practice properly.
Have a cheap stick machine and a cheap MIG machine. For 1mm like that I'd have to use the MIG and tack, tack, tack. I find trying to run a bead the metal just gets hotter and hotter as you continue and eventually you burn through.
the whole thing is more an art than a mechanical 'just do it like this' thing. how they get machines to do it has me beat considering all that. A machine can't practice 'art'.
I get big problems just striking an arc sometimes and with different rods. And burning through, of course. And following the join - can't see where I'm going sometimes. And big ugly welds with heaps too much metal on them. And a diy guy like me has a shed full of opened packets of rods maybe years old - how buggered they are I don't know.. we just use 'em anyway but I don't suppose it makes the job easier for us.
And home diy welding is often a different job every time - I mean different metals to join, two different composition steels to join, and different thickness - sticking one of those 1mm SHS tubes to a 1/4" plate for instance. And all kinds of different positions.
Yep. There's nothing simple about it. It's an art, I don't care what anyone says or how many videos they make showing 'how easy it is'.
So all the critics of this vid, sure, it's wrong, okay - but get in there and tell us what's right !
If you can.
Лучшеб показал как торцы сварить, таким-то макаром несложно заварить
The pigeons have come home to roost!! 😂😂
That’s funny!!! Only a welder gets it!
A lot of birds 🤣
It's not as bad as I've seen, but it's not great by any means. 🤣
Thank you Iron! I never knew why I keep burning holes in the welds no matter how many times I try. Your technique looks as good as a mig weld!
"grinding and paint make the welder I ain't"
ruclips.net/video/GlLKL7r66iE/видео.html
Yeah… personally I woulda kinda weaved those together and then not had the blowout at the start but if he’s happy with it then okay 😂
Here’s a secret, there’s no secrets.
Do another one , but this time don't Drag ... Push it !! Takes a bit of practice , but it works better !! 🙂👍🏻
Срочно, Доктора Дью в студию, нам нужен запах горелого доктора!!!
Ага, в два угла варит, так можно и на 120 ампер варить. В стык покажи лучше такой техникой.
Ну блин
И даже в 150 ампер
Практикант наверно 😊
If you’ll notice, at the start of the video where he shows his holes that blew through, they were all on flats or end cuts. Then he demonstrated by welder 2 corners together. Unless your really dumb, you never blow through on a corner anyways. There is more metal to disperse the heat. Granted, he may not have blown through on the flat using this horrific technique anyways, simply because he’s moving so fast there there is little penetration. He’s just working with the tip. You need to get balls deep for it to really hold strong.
Этот ролик показывает как категорически делать нельзя! ☝️😎
Варил не СВАРЩИК, а без грамотный самоучка.
Пример как надо!
@@user-xe7cg1vn4u Нет провара. Автор совершенно не чувствует металлы, не различает шлак от металла. На видео видно что идёт не сам процесс равномерного наплавления, а просто наложение поверх ещё одного слоя пористого металла в перемешку со шлакам.
@@user-xe7cg1vn4u на просторах ютуба что не покажи всегда найдутся диванные эксперты и обгадят. Поэтому делай как знаешь и умеешь а жизнь подкорректирует.
@@505aleksey505 а он скорее всего никогда не сталкивался с этим пройессом вот и не видит , а когда ему вот такой горе сварщик слепит конструкцию и та развалится желательно на голову , вот тогда может и поймет чего если в живых останется ...
интересно про провар на миллиметровом металле, расскажете поподробнее?
Perfect for putting a crap load of porosity in the weld
It past the x-ray! 😂 🤣
Soldando así le queda una costura muy alta con mucho material después hasta más tiempo en dasbastar .
Aconsejo soldar en zig zag es más rápido y queda un cordón prolijo
Таким передасам надо монетизацию отключать на канале. Как вы заи пали со своими "секретами"
А тем временем просмотры и комменты растут в геометрической прогрессии.
If you want porosity, inclusions, and cold shuts you can weld like this, if you really want to weld you pick a rod that fits what your welding or a process that is better for heat and puddle control
This is the only way to weld thin metal with "Stick". It allows time for the weld pool to cool. It allows slag inclusion, but a blow through is even more harmful to any structural strength. MIG does a better job, but thin metal really needs TIG.
Судя по тому как ты вёл электрод при сварке, сразу понятно, что шлак и металл ты не отличаешь! Зачем эта епля, если можно аккуратно отрывом заварить. Но если хочется без отрыва, ставишь электрод прямо перпендикулярно и в одно плавное, но быстрое движение ложишь красивый и надёжный сварочный шов🤷♂️
Да.С отрывом и шовчик получиться чешуйчатый,красивый.А у него выпуклый,кривой.
Я тоже не понял в чем суть ролика.
@@varantas7934 С отрывом и тройкой электродом можно, но это уже совсем другой секрет 🤣
Сварено-это громко сказано,так,насрано.Возьми электрод 2мм,кинь минус на деталь,чтоб меньше грелась,зачисть гальванику.А лучше возьми МИГ нормальный вместо электрода.
Красавчик братишка, мало кто знает про разницу температур между анодом и катодом.
Братан ,что бы меньшем диаметром электрод взять, нужно техникум закончить хотя бы.
Жаль 4-ку не взял
No matter what; It's a lot easier not to burn through when you're on top of the kerf.
My thought exactly, not really 1mm thickness there is it.
@@eplocal4978 Right.
Насмешил, молодец!
У нас нет таких специалистов, что бы до такого "секрета" догадаться
Здрасьте это что за горы, ты там наложил.и шлак полчаса отбивал. Электрод жалко однако,да и профилей!😩👎!
Во во наsрал только
@@antonchpokin зато как знатно насрал.
Зато мы посмотрели скрытую рекламу электродов и сварочника!...
Ещё четверть милиграмм урана на новой атомной электростанции, тоже жаль
Only when you are tradesmen with at least 10 years then you should be good at your job. I have 35 years and it never gets boring. 🇦🇺👨🏭
Секрет в том, как привлечь публику названием ролика, а в ролике просто обкакаться.