Ha! 14:55 is exactly the reason I went looking for various PDK vids on YT just now. I am in the middle of this service on my wife's Macan GTS and had 100% the same reaction when putting the internal filter in ("there should be a pop; why's there NO POP and why is the filter hanging so loose in it's spot when the factory filter took so much force to pop out!!!". I was in a bit of a rush and secured everything back together but haven't yet put all the fluid in yet and started getting these nightmare scenarios in my head that the filter isn't on correctly and I should drain the fluid again, remove the pan, and try to seat the filter again. But thought to see if anyone on YT had the same issue. Glad you did!! You just saved me a lot of time and anxiety. Since filters operate with suction, I bet they eventually seat on their own under load.
This is a really great video. Thank you for sharing this. The content for the subject matter is on point. Your camera work does a great job of keeping the important view in frame, and your narrative is easy to understand with just the right amount of guidance. 👍 I'm going to perform my 30k service soon and this video is a big help. I really appreciate it.
Great job. Tip: Put the macan on off-road mode while it’s on the ramp (not jacked). That will give you extra clearance. No need to disable the air suspension when on ramps.
@DamienH-y9g - yes you can, make sure you keep your foot firmly planted on the brake so you don't rock off the jack stands. Going through the gears allows the transmission to heat up and get the oil all around the gears and throughout the trans.
@@DamienH-y9g If I'm remembering correctly you'll only be able to hit 1st, reverse and neutral - that should do the trick! You won't be able to get higher than first unless the wheels are spinning but that is not needed. Just 1st, reverse and neutral - go back and forth every so often until you hit temp. I think I let it sit in each gear for 10 seconds or so - no magic time frame that I recall. Good luck!
Nice video of the process! My 21 S has been worked pretty good on a couple of summers of awesome road trips in the Rocky Mountains. I typically do my own maintenance, I was at 40k and wanted to do brake and PDK fluid. In Porsche pricing brake fluid changes are practically free at my local dealer and that's a time consuming pain at this point in my life. I went ahead and also scheduled the PDK fluid to just get it done. No problems but on the bill of materials it stated a "sealant" additive was added to the PDK. My dealer is reputable and they sell a lot of Macan so they are probably on to something. Any knowledge of this? Love your brown interior BTW, I'd love that with a carmine red exterior!
Thanks for watching @YoshiV819 - I'll be honest, I have not heard of the "sealant" and did a quick search on the internet as well, nothing I could find readily. Would love to hear if any other Macan or PDK drivers have heard of this - very interesting. I used the Porsche maintenance manual I found online so it could be outdated for what is now recommended - thanks for chiming in with that info!!!! And I really like the brown interior too - kinda puts it in a class on it's own from other Turbos of that era!
@@Portie2216 I had done due diligence figuring at the end of the day I'd buckle down and do my own PDK fluid. At the time we had just done a 6500 mile road trip and winter was rapidly approaching so I just threw some money at it. I'll ask the next time I'm by the dealer. ICE Macan is now the last new Porsche with an analog tach...didn't see that day coming!
@@YoshiV819 I hear ya, sometimes you just gotta get it done and now. And I didn't know that about the analog tach...very interesting! Going all digital now!
Regarding the cross brace,I've read that it should only be removed while the front wheels are suspended,but clearly you removed and refitted it whilst on ramps,I'll be doing it your way.
@DamienH-y9g - I haven't heard that, interesting - I'll have to look into that. Nothing I saw in the Porsche repair manual had that instruction, although I could've missed it. I will say, so far so good with the change though - been a few months and several thousand miles on the clock.
@AR-gq8ju - yes engine should be running when checking and topping off oil. Here is the process for checking and topping off ATF: Information * Read out the ATF temperature using PIWIS Tester II 9818. * The ATF temperature must not be higher than 30 °C at the beginning of the ATF test. * The ATF level changes as the ATF temperature changes. * Perform ATF test when the engine running and selector lever in position P. * An ATF test performed when the ATF temperature is too low will result in overfilling. * An ATF test performed when the temperature is too high will result in insufficient filling. * An ATF level that is too high or too low will impair the function of the transmission. Information * The ATF level is checked at the ATF inspection plug. * The ATF level is correct if a small amount of fluid still emerges at the ATF inspection plug at an ATF temperature of between 30° and 50 °C. Information Always pay particular attention to the following before raising the vehicle: * Deactivate the levelling system before raising the vehicle (press and hold the levelling system button for at least 10 seconds). * If a transmission range is engaged while the vehicle is raised, the levelling system must first be deactivated using PIWIS Tester II 9818. To do this, select >>Levelling system/PASM>Drive links/checks>Activate/deactivate vehicle
during the running of the engine weren't you supposed to to go through all the gears both times? I didn't see you doing it the last time and could be that is why the expanded warm oil was dripping
@majorrgeek - that is a good point! I did not do that, and the repair manual does not specify that you do that after the initial heat up of the fluid. I have gone back and checked afterward, and it took just a very slight amount of additional fluid, basically followed the instructions again to heat it up (go through the gears and get to 30C and before 40C). As info here is the instructions from the repair manual I have: WM 370235 CHECKING AND TOPPING UP ATF (ALL MODELS) > INFORMATION > TEST CONDITIONS Information Always pay particular attention to the following before raising the vehicle: * Deactivate the levelling system before raising the vehicle (press and hold the levelling system button for at least 10 seconds). * If a transmission range is engaged while the vehicle is raised, the levelling system must first be deactivated using PIWIS Tester II 9818 . To do this, select >>Levelling system/PASM>Drive links/checks>Activate/deactivate vehicle
Further - here is another section that addresses checking and topping off ATF: Information * Read out the ATF temperature using PIWIS Tester II 9818. * The ATF temperature must not be higher than 30 °C at the beginning of the ATF test. * The ATF level changes as the ATF temperature changes. * Perform ATF test when the engine running and selector lever in position P. * An ATF test performed when the ATF temperature is too low will result in overfilling. * An ATF test performed when the temperature is too high will result in insufficient filling. * An ATF level that is too high or too low will impair the function of the transmission. Information * The ATF level is checked at the ATF inspection plug. * The ATF level is correct if a small amount of fluid still emerges at the ATF inspection plug at an ATF temperature of between 30° and 50 °C. Information Always pay particular attention to the following before raising the vehicle: * Deactivate the levelling system before raising the vehicle (press and hold the levelling system button for at least 10 seconds). * If a transmission range is engaged while the vehicle is raised, the levelling system must first be deactivated using PIWIS Tester II 9818. To do this, select >>Levelling system/PASM>Drive links/checks>Activate/deactivate vehicle
@MSN-82 - I didn't read where you had to reinstall the inspection plug in between so I didn't. It definitely wouldn't hurt to do that though. This is what I show in the repair manual: 5. Check and top up ATF. 1. When an ATF temperature of 30 °C is reached, unscrew the ATF inspection plug 2. If ATF emerges from the ATF control opening before the ATF temperature has reached 40 °C, the ATF level is OK. 3. If no ATF emerges at a temperature of up to 40 °C, add ATF using manual metering pump HDP 500 Porsche WE 1372 until ATF emerges. Information: 1. The ATF inspection plug must be closed again at 50 °C at the latest. 2. Switch off the engine if necessary, let the transmission cool down and repeat the test. 6. Screw in and tighten new ATF inspection plug with a new sealing ring. Tightening torque 45 Nm (33 ftlb.) Hope this helps!
Great PDK video. While this video is almost 2 months old, your "almost" stripped cross member bolt made me think of this video (not sure if you're familiar with it, or have seen it), but here it is: ruclips.net/video/zWkq_yd0QaQ/видео.html For future reference of course.
@johndao4660 - Shopping around I got most of the parts from FCPEuro.com, they do sell the complete kit if you want to go that route. For the bolts that I replaced I got them from Gaudin Porsche in Las Vegas, I buy a lot from them - good prices! For the fluid/oil I got that on Amazon. All the parts are listed in the description! Good luck!!!
![I.N "HALLUCINATION" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/n5B5q1Hwt_U/mqdefault.jpg)
Ha! 14:55 is exactly the reason I went looking for various PDK vids on YT just now. I am in the middle of this service on my wife's Macan GTS and had 100% the same reaction when putting the internal filter in ("there should be a pop; why's there NO POP and why is the filter hanging so loose in it's spot when the factory filter took so much force to pop out!!!". I was in a bit of a rush and secured everything back together but haven't yet put all the fluid in yet and started getting these nightmare scenarios in my head that the filter isn't on correctly and I should drain the fluid again, remove the pan, and try to seat the filter again. But thought to see if anyone on YT had the same issue. Glad you did!! You just saved me a lot of time and anxiety. Since filters operate with suction, I bet they eventually seat on their own under load.
This is a really great video. Thank you for sharing this. The content for the subject matter is on point. Your camera work does a great job of keeping the important view in frame, and your narrative is easy to understand with just the right amount of guidance. 👍 I'm going to perform my 30k service soon and this video is a big help. I really appreciate it.
@jackharding98 - thank you for the AWESOME comments, appreciate it! Hope your 30k service goes well - let us know how it all goes!!!
I'll post a video to my RUclips channel when I do it, and I'll give your channel a shout-out 👍@Portie2216
@jackharding98 - right on and good luck!! 👍🏻
Great job. Tip: Put the macan on off-road mode while it’s on the ramp (not jacked). That will give you extra clearance. No need to disable the air suspension when on ramps.
Hot Tip right there!!!! Should give you a couple more good inches to work under - Thanks!!!!
Can you go through the gears while the wheels aren't turning (on ramps)
@DamienH-y9g - yes you can, make sure you keep your foot firmly planted on the brake so you don't rock off the jack stands. Going through the gears allows the transmission to heat up and get the oil all around the gears and throughout the trans.
@Portie2216 I've been trying this but the display doesn't change from 1 (first gear) maybe the wheels have to be spinning?
@@DamienH-y9g If I'm remembering correctly you'll only be able to hit 1st, reverse and neutral - that should do the trick! You won't be able to get higher than first unless the wheels are spinning but that is not needed. Just 1st, reverse and neutral - go back and forth every so often until you hit temp. I think I let it sit in each gear for 10 seconds or so - no magic time frame that I recall. Good luck!
Thanks for the video. Great content!
Thank you 🙏 and thanks for watching!!!! 👍🏻
Nice video of the process! My 21 S has been worked pretty good on a couple of summers of awesome road trips in the Rocky Mountains. I typically do my own maintenance, I was at 40k and wanted to do brake and PDK fluid. In Porsche pricing brake fluid changes are practically free at my local dealer and that's a time consuming pain at this point in my life. I went ahead and also scheduled the PDK fluid to just get it done. No problems but on the bill of materials it stated a "sealant" additive was added to the PDK. My dealer is reputable and they sell a lot of Macan so they are probably on to something. Any knowledge of this? Love your brown interior BTW, I'd love that with a carmine red exterior!
Thanks for watching @YoshiV819 - I'll be honest, I have not heard of the "sealant" and did a quick search on the internet as well, nothing I could find readily. Would love to hear if any other Macan or PDK drivers have heard of this - very interesting. I used the Porsche maintenance manual I found online so it could be outdated for what is now recommended - thanks for chiming in with that info!!!!
And I really like the brown interior too - kinda puts it in a class on it's own from other Turbos of that era!
@@Portie2216 I had done due diligence figuring at the end of the day I'd buckle down and do my own PDK fluid. At the time we had just done a 6500 mile road trip and winter was rapidly approaching so I just threw some money at it. I'll ask the next time I'm by the dealer. ICE Macan is now the last new Porsche with an analog tach...didn't see that day coming!
@@YoshiV819 I hear ya, sometimes you just gotta get it done and now. And I didn't know that about the analog tach...very interesting! Going all digital now!
@@Portie2216 it makes me a little sad, who wants to pay Porsche money for a center tach on a screen...
Regarding the cross brace,I've read that it should only be removed while the front wheels are suspended,but clearly you removed and refitted it whilst on ramps,I'll be doing it your way.
@DamienH-y9g - I haven't heard that, interesting - I'll have to look into that. Nothing I saw in the Porsche repair manual had that instruction, although I could've missed it. I will say, so far so good with the change though - been a few months and several thousand miles on the clock.
@Portie2216 great,thank you.
Thanks for the video, the final check of the fluid (40c) should be with the vehicle running or not. ?
Thanks
@AR-gq8ju - yes engine should be running when checking and topping off oil. Here is the process for checking and topping off ATF:
Information
* Read out the ATF temperature using PIWIS Tester II 9818.
* The ATF temperature must not be higher than 30 °C at the beginning of the ATF test.
* The ATF level changes as the ATF temperature changes.
* Perform ATF test when the engine running and selector lever in position P.
* An ATF test performed when the ATF temperature is too low will result in overfilling.
* An ATF test performed when the temperature is too high will result in insufficient filling.
* An ATF level that is too high or too low will impair the function of the transmission.
Information
* The ATF level is checked at the ATF inspection plug.
* The ATF level is correct if a small amount of fluid still emerges at the ATF inspection plug at an ATF
temperature of between 30° and 50 °C.
Information
Always pay particular attention to the following before raising the vehicle:
* Deactivate the levelling system before raising the vehicle (press and hold the levelling system
button for at least 10 seconds).
* If a transmission range is engaged while the vehicle is raised, the levelling system must first be
deactivated using PIWIS Tester II 9818. To do this, select >>Levelling system/PASM>Drive
links/checks>Activate/deactivate vehicle
during the running of the engine weren't you supposed to to go through all the gears both times? I didn't see you doing it the last time and could be that is why the expanded warm oil was dripping
@majorrgeek - that is a good point! I did not do that, and the repair manual does not specify that you do that after the initial heat up of the fluid. I have gone back and checked afterward, and it took just a very slight amount of additional fluid, basically followed the instructions again to heat it up (go through the gears and get to 30C and before 40C). As info here is the instructions from the repair manual I have:
WM 370235 CHECKING AND TOPPING UP ATF (ALL MODELS) > INFORMATION >
TEST CONDITIONS
Information
Always pay particular attention to the following before raising the vehicle:
* Deactivate the levelling system before raising the vehicle (press and hold the levelling system
button for at least 10 seconds).
* If a transmission range is engaged while the vehicle is raised, the levelling system must first be
deactivated using PIWIS Tester II 9818 . To do this, select >>Levelling system/PASM>Drive
links/checks>Activate/deactivate vehicle
Further - here is another section that addresses checking and topping off ATF:
Information
* Read out the ATF temperature using PIWIS Tester II 9818.
* The ATF temperature must not be higher than 30 °C at the beginning of the ATF test.
* The ATF level changes as the ATF temperature changes.
* Perform ATF test when the engine running and selector lever in position P.
* An ATF test performed when the ATF temperature is too low will result in overfilling.
* An ATF test performed when the temperature is too high will result in insufficient filling.
* An ATF level that is too high or too low will impair the function of the transmission.
Information
* The ATF level is checked at the ATF inspection plug.
* The ATF level is correct if a small amount of fluid still emerges at the ATF inspection plug at an ATF
temperature of between 30° and 50 °C.
Information
Always pay particular attention to the following before raising the vehicle:
* Deactivate the levelling system before raising the vehicle (press and hold the levelling system
button for at least 10 seconds).
* If a transmission range is engaged while the vehicle is raised, the levelling system must first be
deactivated using PIWIS Tester II 9818. To do this, select >>Levelling system/PASM>Drive
links/checks>Activate/deactivate vehicle
After filling the fluid first and second time, weren’t you supposed to be putting the plug in? I saw that you didn’t, and I wonder if that’s OK.
@MSN-82 - I didn't read where you had to reinstall the inspection plug in between so I didn't. It definitely wouldn't hurt to do that though. This is what I show in the repair manual:
5. Check and top up ATF.
1. When an ATF temperature of 30 °C is reached, unscrew the ATF inspection plug
2. If ATF emerges from the ATF control opening before the ATF temperature has reached 40 °C, the ATF level is OK.
3. If no ATF emerges at a temperature of up to 40 °C, add ATF using manual metering pump HDP 500 Porsche WE 1372 until ATF emerges.
Information:
1. The ATF inspection plug must be closed again at 50 °C at the latest.
2. Switch off the engine if necessary, let the transmission cool down and repeat the test.
6. Screw in and tighten new ATF inspection plug with a new sealing ring. Tightening torque 45 Nm (33 ftlb.)
Hope this helps!
@@Portie2216 🙏🏼
Great PDK video. While this video is almost 2 months old, your "almost" stripped cross member bolt made me think of this video (not sure if you're familiar with it, or have seen it), but here it is: ruclips.net/video/zWkq_yd0QaQ/видео.html
For future reference of course.
Now I'll say that is a pretty sweet product!!! Thank you for sharing - filing this for future reference.
@@Portie2216 Yes sir. Anything to get the upper hand for us DIY'ers is always a plus. Because we've all been there.
Some people claim you have to recalibrate the transmission. What kind of junk is that?
@MrNanah38 - yeah I haven't heard about doing that, so far so good though! Thanks for watching!!!
save 1700 $job where yuo buy filter and all bolt ?amazon/ dealer/
@johndao4660 - Shopping around I got most of the parts from FCPEuro.com, they do sell the complete kit if you want to go that route. For the bolts that I replaced I got them from Gaudin Porsche in Las Vegas, I buy a lot from them - good prices! For the fluid/oil I got that on Amazon. All the parts are listed in the description! Good luck!!!