Someone commented that I wasn't doing my commander hs justice riding with a knobby. So I switched to the Michelin street pilot. The differences were like night and day. It was much more smoother and easier to ride.
Okay. I've gotta correct you on some intricacies about rolling resistance and grip. You are correct about the street tire having less tread and so having less rolling resistance. You are incorrect about the nobby tire having more grip on the street than the street tire. Nobby's have what's called defection and high amounts of it on flat surfaces. The less tread the less deflection. Deflection is bad when cornering. Really bad. Basically the more uninterrupted surface area touching the ground (the contact patch) the more grip you have. Now on dirt or rough inconsistent surfaces like gravel or cobblestone and such, nobby tires work better because of loose dirt displacement and the process of packing earth or the tire surface creating multiple areas of friction. It's a weird complicated formula explaining WHY nobby tires are better than slicks on dirt and gravel. But on consistent and relatively smooth surfaces slicks, tires with less tread, have much more grip. Now in the wet that gets into hydrodynamics, but even still, as long as there isn't a lot of weight involved (the cause of hydroplaning), for the most part a nobby will break loose faster on the road than a slick all things being equal (I'm talking tire width at this point). It's why motorcycle racing on the street even in the rain don't use nobby's. They use a semi-slick, one with channels so water has somewhere to go other than between the surface of the tire and road. The mistake people generally make is that low rolling resistance must mean less grip, but that's the compound the tire is made up of that dictates that. Not so much the tread pattern. The compound has the most to do rolling resistance when it comes to slicks. Deflection is second. The more deflection the more resistance. Which consequentially causes a loss of traction in the form of deflection and thus loss of grip. Think about each deflection of a nob causing the tire to bump, up and I to the air.Wvile that tire does so you have a loss of grip. Each impact of the nob does this, lands again and you regain grip. A Slick never does this. There is no deflection. It is possible if the contact patch is small, which is why bike racing has been moving to wider tires. The wider the tire the bigger the contact patch. Nobby's contact patch is only as big as the amount of bobs in the surface during a give moment. You'd need a ginormous nobby tire to equal the contact patch of just a 25mm tire. The you'd be sacrificing weight and huge amounts of friction and deflection. Your inefficiency quotient would be stupifying if that was your goal. Slicks are also better for braking. More surface area means more braking power. Slicks are also better for acceleration. More surface area equals more power delivered to the pavement. Why? Less slip. There's a common denominator here. Less slip, more surface area on contact patches. Nobby's are the worst thing you can ride on the street. In every way. Efficiency, top speed, acceleration, lateral grip, rolling resistance, deflection. In every way the worst road tire will be better than the very best nobby on the street.
To.. explain about deflection and grip, deflection causes slip. And it happens fast. The moment where deflection occurs is when the nobby tread loses grip, and the next nobby strikes the surface. This causes bump deflection where the tire literally lifts off the surface from it's Impact. Land a again and then there is a possible secondary deflection, but that is rare. That's deflection happens every time a nib strikes the surface. Fortunately the overall mass of the vehicle and it's occupant/operator keeps the contact at a constant given whatever speed you're traveling at. Slow speeds equals less periods of time rebounding off each deflection. But that faster you go the worse it gets. And this is only speaking of straight lines. If you are exerting lateral forces on the tire, ie turning, that deflection increases, multiplying squared per x of 3ach tenth of lateral G. If there are nobs and just a smooth surface of tire then compound failure comes into play. This can be progressive or near instantaneous depending on the tires compound. The key is the tires compound, it's stickiness, never comes anywhere near to the point failure because of deflection in the case of nobby's. With nobby's on the street, the softer the tire the better because then at least the nob has more time on the ground. But in the dirt that's the worst thing.. Malleability and tread pattern dictates grip on loose surfaces. On the street, soft is best for grip, but wears faster. It's a catch 22.And on top of that no bus where faster because of that deflection because of those fast impacts where slicks have very few fast impacts. Inertia is a bitch!
The knobby tire was really sketchy to me when I first rode on it but then I got used to it and kinda like it now. It does tend to drift to one side at high speeds which is the reason I’m going to be trying the street tire. I do however like to have the option to hit off road at any time. So I sacrifice a lil speed
Thanks for yet more great content. I just realized while watching all this focus that I might be able to make a skid plate/crush guard for rims. At that point, we'd probably need a bead locker for track or trail stresses. If I can draw up a guess at what sort of plate i can bolt over the wheel ring itself (just had a flash that it's literally the most rigid component on the whole device), it would not only help overall vehicle rigidity and wheel ring stiffness further but a rolled edge along it can be used to keep from ganking the rim when it bottoms out or gets thwacked on the side by a rock or curb, just like a skateboard side rail does. Maybe even coat the rolled edge in hard slippery plastic so we can do....wheel grinds. yep i said it and now it's been said. Braking the wheel temporarily should be a lot easier than implementing advanced freewheel algorithms to allow advanced riding techniques. The footpads of course will also need the plastic skate grabs put on with locking pedals so we can get the grind on. With a CVT hub we could actually lose a lot of weight and really get the ride on. But yeah. I'm starting to see a few more brands of tire out there but it's still catch as catch can. I don't think a tire company has put out a "designed for EUC" tire yet and that's what we need a *variety* of at this point. If anyone starts designing specifically for EUC they're going to outperform so hard nobody will buy anyone else's tires. Who wouldn't love to see some Nokian compounds on snow/ice tires? LazyRolling is literally in Sweden IIRC ;-)
I have horrible streets where every 3 seconds there is an inch gap crack across the road at best. My Sherman witha knobby is amazing and my Nik+ with a street tire kills my back and knees where the Sherman doesn't. I guess I don't have streets that can be called streets because I love my Sherman knobby on these roads as a smooth tire doesn't give me grip, especially in snow on these roads. Knobby all the way!
I just had this exact same conversation yesterday with Sonny at headquarters in New York City. He also recommended a Michelin street tire for the EXN. I barely ride my EXN because I hate the way it rides with the stock knobby tire. Barely has any miles on it and I was thinking is selling it. Now I just need to buy the Michelin tire and have one someone swap it out for me. You have given me hope for my EX N. Thank you brother. Can you give me the correct Michelin tire model for the swap?
Hello again! I did precisely that on my exn. The CST tyre went out, and the pirelli street tyre came in! Much much better!.... Thanks for the vid! The only question is: which measure did you use? 80 90 r14, or 90 90 r14?
I'm thinking of buying a used EXN. How noticeable is the weight difference since one side is 7lb lighter? Did you fill the gap by the motherboard to try and balance the weight? I would definitely buy a new tire like the one you're using.
At first they were hard to deal with because the material is a bit harder then the foam I use on my custom ones, but since I've been using them it's starting to feel reall good
A street tire makes huge difference in grip and handling. I use to put street tires on my mountain bike when I would ride in NYC. My bike had better all around performance for street riding.
Please create an affliate account and post the links to the products you're using, I'm on an EXN and looking for a street tire because I hate this knobby on the road and I'd buy a street tire from your link.
Question. If you wanted to hit best 0 to 55+ is the best method 90%+ battery and hardest possible tilt forward to get maximum amps/wattage? Is that why he tilted super foward like a madman?
Swapping knobby to Street tire is definitely no brainer for street rider ...good thing is that EXN has decent pedal clearance height...been thinking to swap tire on my Sherman but it lowers pedal clearance almost by 1cm... Sherman's pedal clearance is already too low
From a sound engineering perspective covering up terrible audio with loud music isn't any better. You're better off lowering the gain or volume of the background noise rather than having both tracks compete for the same volume output.
You can go as fast as the other cars on the road? Ever worry about falling face first? In my land, USA, I think they would not allow this as people would act like it's very dangerous and that we shouldn't even be allowed to take the risk of driving one. But I don't know I haven't looked into it.
Someone commented that I wasn't doing my commander hs justice riding with a knobby. So I switched to the Michelin street pilot. The differences were like night and day. It was much more smoother and easier to ride.
Okay. I've gotta correct you on some intricacies about rolling resistance and grip. You are correct about the street tire having less tread and so having less rolling resistance. You are incorrect about the nobby tire having more grip on the street than the street tire.
Nobby's have what's called defection and high amounts of it on flat surfaces. The less tread the less deflection. Deflection is bad when cornering. Really bad. Basically the more uninterrupted surface area touching the ground (the contact patch) the more grip you have. Now on dirt or rough inconsistent surfaces like gravel or cobblestone and such, nobby tires work better because of loose dirt displacement and the process of packing earth or the tire surface creating multiple areas of friction.
It's a weird complicated formula explaining WHY nobby tires are better than slicks on dirt and gravel. But on consistent and relatively smooth surfaces slicks, tires with less tread, have much more grip.
Now in the wet that gets into hydrodynamics, but even still, as long as there isn't a lot of weight involved (the cause of hydroplaning), for the most part a nobby will break loose faster on the road than a slick all things being equal (I'm talking tire width at this point). It's why motorcycle racing on the street even in the rain don't use nobby's. They use a semi-slick, one with channels so water has somewhere to go other than between the surface of the tire and road.
The mistake people generally make is that low rolling resistance must mean less grip, but that's the compound the tire is made up of that dictates that. Not so much the tread pattern. The compound has the most to do rolling resistance when it comes to slicks. Deflection is second. The more deflection the more resistance. Which consequentially causes a loss of traction in the form of deflection and thus loss of grip. Think about each deflection of a nob causing the tire to bump, up and I to the air.Wvile that tire does so you have a loss of grip. Each impact of the nob does this, lands again and you regain grip. A Slick never does this. There is no deflection. It is possible if the contact patch is small, which is why bike racing has been moving to wider tires. The wider the tire the bigger the contact patch. Nobby's contact patch is only as big as the amount of bobs in the surface during a give moment. You'd need a ginormous nobby tire to equal the contact patch of just a 25mm tire. The you'd be sacrificing weight and huge amounts of friction and deflection. Your inefficiency quotient would be stupifying if that was your goal.
Slicks are also better for braking. More surface area means more braking power.
Slicks are also better for acceleration. More surface area equals more power delivered to the pavement. Why? Less slip.
There's a common denominator here. Less slip, more surface area on contact patches. Nobby's are the worst thing you can ride on the street. In every way. Efficiency, top speed, acceleration, lateral grip, rolling resistance, deflection. In every way the worst road tire will be better than the very best nobby on the street.
To.. explain about deflection and grip, deflection causes slip. And it happens fast. The moment where deflection occurs is when the nobby tread loses grip, and the next nobby strikes the surface. This causes bump deflection where the tire literally lifts off the surface from it's Impact. Land a again and then there is a possible secondary deflection, but that is rare. That's deflection happens every time a nib strikes the surface. Fortunately the overall mass of the vehicle and it's occupant/operator keeps the contact at a constant given whatever speed you're traveling at. Slow speeds equals less periods of time rebounding off each deflection. But that faster you go the worse it gets. And this is only speaking of straight lines. If you are exerting lateral forces on the tire, ie turning, that deflection increases, multiplying squared per x of 3ach tenth of lateral G. If there are nobs and just a smooth surface of tire then compound failure comes into play. This can be progressive or near instantaneous depending on the tires compound.
The key is the tires compound, it's stickiness, never comes anywhere near to the point failure because of deflection in the case of nobby's. With nobby's on the street, the softer the tire the better because then at least the nob has more time on the ground. But in the dirt that's the worst thing.. Malleability and tread pattern dictates grip on loose surfaces. On the street, soft is best for grip, but wears faster. It's a catch 22.And on top of that no bus where faster because of that deflection because of those fast impacts where slicks have very few fast impacts.
Inertia is a bitch!
Great video, glad you are liking my pads!👍
The knobby tire was really sketchy to me when I first rode on it but then I got used to it and kinda like it now. It does tend to drift to one side at high speeds which is the reason I’m going to be trying the street tire. I do however like to have the option to hit off road at any time. So I sacrifice a lil speed
Thanks for yet more great content.
I just realized while watching all this focus that I might be able to make a skid plate/crush guard for rims.
At that point, we'd probably need a bead locker for track or trail stresses.
If I can draw up a guess at what sort of plate i can bolt over the wheel ring itself (just had a flash that it's literally the most rigid component on the whole device), it would not only help overall vehicle rigidity and wheel ring stiffness further but a rolled edge along it can be used to keep from ganking the rim when it bottoms out or gets thwacked on the side by a rock or curb, just like a skateboard side rail does. Maybe even coat the rolled edge in hard slippery plastic so we can do....wheel grinds. yep i said it and now it's been said.
Braking the wheel temporarily should be a lot easier than implementing advanced freewheel algorithms to allow advanced riding techniques. The footpads of course will also need the plastic skate grabs put on with locking pedals so we can get the grind on.
With a CVT hub we could actually lose a lot of weight and really get the ride on.
But yeah. I'm starting to see a few more brands of tire out there but it's still catch as catch can. I don't think a tire company has put out a "designed for EUC" tire yet and that's what we need a *variety* of at this point. If anyone starts designing specifically for EUC they're going to outperform so hard nobody will buy anyone else's tires.
Who wouldn't love to see some Nokian compounds on snow/ice tires? LazyRolling is literally in Sweden IIRC ;-)
I have horrible streets where every 3 seconds there is an inch gap crack across the road at best. My Sherman witha knobby is amazing and my Nik+ with a street tire kills my back and knees where the Sherman doesn't. I guess I don't have streets that can be called streets because I love my Sherman knobby on these roads as a smooth tire doesn't give me grip, especially in snow on these roads. Knobby all the way!
Which street tire did you get and from where? Thank you!
Was thinking about doing this for my sherman but didn't because the risk of high speed wobbles after I saw Kujis second sherman video.
Thanks! By the way it’s the same with motocycles - dirt-style tires are very bad for street ride - and very bad for cornering too
I just had this exact same conversation yesterday with Sonny at headquarters in New York City. He also recommended a Michelin street tire for the EXN. I barely ride my EXN because I hate the way it rides with the stock knobby tire. Barely has any miles on it and I was thinking is selling it. Now I just need to buy the Michelin tire and have one someone swap it out for me. You have given me hope for my EX N. Thank you brother. Can you give me the correct Michelin tire model for the swap?
Don't sell man. Try the atreet
@@UStride what is the tire brand and model/size?
Any recommendations on a specific tire to use for the EX.N? Ready to make the move but unsure which 20" x 3" tire to get that works well with the rim.
Hello again! I did precisely that on my exn. The CST tyre went out, and the pirelli street tyre came in! Much much better!....
Thanks for the vid! The only question is: which measure did you use? 80 90 r14, or 90 90 r14?
yeah ! I just changed the knobby on my exn for a CST 6004 street tire, so much better !
I love my knobby. I can still carve pretty easily in the street.
I'm thinking of buying a used EXN. How noticeable is the weight difference since one side is 7lb lighter? Did you fill the gap by the motherboard to try and balance the weight?
I would definitely buy a new tire like the one you're using.
How do you find the side pads from Sensei Vegan? I'm looking for a pair. Can you direct me? Thanks
At first they were hard to deal with because the material is a bit harder then the foam I use on my custom ones, but since I've been using them it's starting to feel reall good
A street tire makes huge difference in grip and handling. I use to put street tires on my mountain bike when I would ride in NYC. My bike had better all around performance for street riding.
I could ONLY enjoy the knobby on EXN at 18PSI. Anything higher and it was a squirrels nightmare ride
Wow, that's so low. I ride it at nearly 40psi.
I have a pilot tire I’m going to be trying on my EXN. See how it goes
Get in contact with Tire that you can use on road And off road.
I guess I’m more of a knobby fan because the EXN has a high speed lean n I’m not sure I’m ready that with a street tire plus i love the sound
Please create an affliate account and post the links to the products you're using, I'm on an EXN and looking for a street tire because I hate this knobby on the road and I'd buy a street tire from your link.
Sounds good..I'll try to work on it
For urban commute I'd rather have a street tire and enjoy the comfort.
Speed test coming??
I don't know. We'll see
Awesome 😎 thanks 🙏
Street tire all the way for me
Wait so knobby tire means better braking which euc sucks at
knobby on streets is like kingsong on a highway ;)
Master just hit 55 and 0 to 40 in 4 secs on a knobby
Knoby is fanatic in a straight line but not good for range or medium to extreme maneuvering
I was curious about this myself cause I thought skipping would be an issue depending on weight. He was 150 pound rider so. There's that as well
Question. If you wanted to hit best 0 to 55+ is the best method 90%+ battery and hardest possible tilt forward to get maximum amps/wattage? Is that why he tilted super foward like a madman?
Swapping knobby to Street tire is definitely no brainer for street rider ...good thing is that EXN has decent pedal clearance height...been thinking to swap tire on my Sherman but it lowers pedal clearance almost by 1cm... Sherman's pedal clearance is already too low
Roll on sticky compounds
Knobby for me, street tire train tracks!
From a sound engineering perspective covering up terrible audio with loud music isn't any better. You're better off lowering the gain or volume of the background noise rather than having both tracks compete for the same volume output.
You can go as fast as the other cars on the road? Ever worry about falling face first? In my land, USA, I think they would not allow this as people would act like it's very dangerous and that we shouldn't even be allowed to take the risk of driving one. But I don't know I haven't looked into it.
...I feel like this is common sense.. a street tire will do better on the street...😅
Tressa Walk
👍👍
Martin Christopher Walker Jessica Allen Charles