Dude I’ve watched probably a dozen videos on this trying to get it. I didn’t understand how it did direct drive and under drive. Your demonstration at 5:16 makes perfect sense now, so easy. But impossible to understand without that critical part.
Love the video! My 208 went out a couple years ago; it wouldn’t stay in 2H. Then after a while of holding the shift up when braking, hoping it wouldn’t pop out of gear again in a busy intersection ( happened a lot) it finally would only work in 4L. That 15mph drive to the shop took forever (so it seemed) but now it’s working like a charm.
Most 1000hp 12 valves have 241's. Super stoked for your burb build, I have an 87 crewcab square. along with 12 valve nv4500 and a 1st gen dodge 205 sitting in the shop waiting for a swap hopefully your build sends some motivation my way. I drive a 97 12 valve ive had it for 17 years best engine ever itll be perfect for your build checks all the boxes and so simple.
Np241 is a great t-case. The 208 and 241 are prone to wear out the shift fork pads. It’s an easy fix if you catch it early enough. just don’t let them run low on fluid, especially the 208.
You are my hero, thank you for explaining the full functions. my Case is apart on my dining room table and i know what the issue was, and i see the damage but couldn't understand the movement.
241 weak link seems to be the shift fork bits and chain stretch causing it to skip teeth and or wear a hole into the case. I have 3 241's in 2 Blazers and a Dodge 2500. The Dodge at 175k stretched the chain right out so had a spare 241c from a 89 Blazer and switched the chain out...cheap fix. Also have a 205 behind a TH350 and the magnum would be a great fix to make it very useable for crawl gearing but at 2gUSD...ouch. But the compactness vs 203/205 is crucial in a K5 for rear shaft angle dangle when lifted. Look forward to how well this new setup works for you
Yeah, just what I suspected! My NP208 wore the fingers off it's shift forks, stranding me. I thought surely it was my 700R4 that bought as carry out from a rebuilder 10 years prior. Long story short, I tore down my transmission to find the clutches were still good. Confused, I replaced the piston lip seals and shaft seals, get it back together and drive it... SAME THING HAPPENS!!! but this time I thought, what if I move the T case shifter?...... Drove home banging head on steering wheel. Got a new fork a week later, worked perfectly a couple more years, until I found a 205.
For what a magnum underdrive and rebuilt NP205 cost, you could consider an Atlas 4. With an Atlas you have a broader selection of reduction ratios (up to 11.7:1).
The draw of the magnum is the shaft that connects the magnum and 205. I don’t need anything that low and I have seen Atlas break. Never seen a magnum or 205 break
The output shaft on the 205's will break. Advance Adapters makes a beefed up version that is rated to 750 lb/ft if memory serves. I have an ordinary Atlas 2 behind an LT4 with 640 lb/ft at the wheels and haven't broken anything yet. You aren't running enough torque to break either an Atlas or 205.
hey bro, cool video. have you ever known a 241 to not in gauge in 4 hi or low? 2 wheel is fine and the front diff is locking in. just no movement out of the front drive shaft. no funny noises, no beating on it. worked normal, then nothing. 4x4 light used to come on, now it doesnt. let me know what you think
I always thought you had a 203/205 doubler in there. No idea where I got that from. I also didn’t know there was a passenger side 241. The more you know
My fork pads are still in great shape. I’m not even going to drop the case to do this job. It’s just been a pain in the ass seeing a drip or 2 coming from the shift selector rod.
I have a 240 something in my 2004 GMC duramax. Transfer case got melted. Transmission shop said it was from pump rub. We never seen anything leaking but we live in sand. And no rough wheeling. Just light mud while feeding cattle in the pasture during the winter. I much prefer the 205 that I put in my 1969 Chevy 3/4 ton. And is already in our 1972 3/4 ton suburban. Also, does the 241 have to go behind the tremec in your suburban? Or could you put a 205 behind it?
Well you AWD Blazer is part time 4wd not AWD. I think the 205 came in the 76, not the 208. The 205 is cast, the 208 is aluminum and the generation prior to the 241
@@MerricksGarage yeah pickups had it too other than that I dont know much about it. The thing is massive and super heavy with the center diff built into it
its a decent transfer case. But not really work throwing money at. The 241 is the next gen of the 208 and came with oil pump, two more planetary gears and can have a slip yoke eliminator kit installed relatively easy. If you have the 208, run it until it dies!
Dude I’ve watched probably a dozen videos on this trying to get it. I didn’t understand how it did direct drive and under drive. Your demonstration at 5:16 makes perfect sense now, so easy. But impossible to understand without that critical part.
Sweet video. It's cool to see the inner workings and helps me understand just how it makes the wheels turn. Keep'em coming.
Love the video! My 208 went out a couple years ago; it wouldn’t stay in 2H. Then after a while of holding the shift up when braking, hoping it wouldn’t pop out of gear again in a busy intersection ( happened a lot) it finally would only work in 4L. That 15mph drive to the shop took forever (so it seemed) but now it’s working like a charm.
Serious. 15mph was so slooooow
Thanks for another great video, one of those things that i never have taken apart but now with a manual would not be afraid of.
i've never seen how all that worked before. thank you. very interesting and informative.
Most 1000hp 12 valves have 241's. Super stoked for your burb build, I have an 87 crewcab square. along with 12 valve nv4500 and a 1st gen dodge 205 sitting in the shop waiting for a swap hopefully your build sends some motivation my way. I drive a 97 12 valve ive had it for 17 years best engine ever itll be perfect for your build checks all the boxes and so simple.
Np241 is a great t-case. The 208 and 241 are prone to wear out the shift fork pads. It’s an easy fix if you catch it early enough. just don’t let them run low on fluid, especially the 208.
You are my hero, thank you for explaining the full functions. my Case is apart on my dining room table and i know what the issue was, and i see the damage but couldn't understand the movement.
Really like your detailed explanations on stuff you are working James. Keep up the GREAT work ;)
Thanks man. I love helping others understand these badass rigs!
Can't wait for the next video !! 🤓Great content. Always keeping the passion going. I 'd rather watch and learn from you than watch football.
I appreciate that!
Good Choice! I'm on my second one and love it!
Great breakdown and in-depth view on the parts.
Glad you liked it!
Absolutely amazing. Thank you. So freaking cool!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Awesome video! Thanks brother!!
Yet another fantastic video! Thanks man!
My pleasure!
Pumped for that 205 swap
241 weak link seems to be the shift fork bits and chain stretch causing it to skip teeth and or wear a hole into the case.
I have 3 241's in 2 Blazers and a Dodge 2500. The Dodge at 175k stretched the chain right out so had a spare 241c from a 89 Blazer and switched the chain out...cheap fix.
Also have a 205 behind a TH350 and the magnum would be a great fix to make it very useable for crawl gearing but at 2gUSD...ouch. But the compactness vs 203/205 is crucial in a K5 for rear shaft angle dangle when lifted.
Look forward to how well this new setup works for you
Yup. Nailed it right there. I haven’t had a chain stretch that much but the length of the magnum 205 is sweet
Yeah, just what I suspected! My NP208 wore the fingers off it's shift forks, stranding me. I thought surely it was my 700R4 that bought as carry out from a rebuilder 10 years prior. Long story short, I tore down my transmission to find the clutches were still good. Confused, I replaced the piston lip seals and shaft seals, get it back together and drive it... SAME THING HAPPENS!!! but this time I thought, what if I move the T case shifter?...... Drove home banging head on steering wheel. Got a new fork a week later, worked perfectly a couple more years, until I found a 205.
Aw man that’s a bummer! That was my first thought too!
You legit deserve more subscribers bro!
If you build it. They will come
Love your work I hope you keep thing going
For what a magnum underdrive and rebuilt NP205 cost, you could consider an Atlas 4. With an Atlas you have a broader selection of reduction ratios (up to 11.7:1).
The draw of the magnum is the shaft that connects the magnum and 205. I don’t need anything that low and I have seen Atlas break. Never seen a magnum or 205 break
The output shaft on the 205's will break. Advance Adapters makes a beefed up version that is rated to 750 lb/ft if memory serves. I have an ordinary Atlas 2 behind an LT4 with 640 lb/ft at the wheels and haven't broken anything yet. You aren't running enough torque to break either an Atlas or 205.
hey bro, cool video. have you ever known a 241 to not in gauge in 4 hi or low? 2 wheel is fine and the front diff is locking in. just no movement out of the front drive shaft. no funny noises, no beating on it. worked normal, then nothing. 4x4 light used to come on, now it doesnt. let me know what you think
Most likely the range selector has gone. That’s kinda what happened to mine but 4lo still worked.
Thanks for the info buddy 👍
You bet
My 208 pops out of low range sometimes when it's coasting, not under load. Probably those shift fork pads.
Yup. Not that bad of a repair
I always thought you had a 203/205 doubler in there. No idea where I got that from. I also didn’t know there was a passenger side 241. The more you know
Pulled this TC from a junkyard about 6 years ago!
The last years of Blazers/Jimmys (89 to 91 not sure on 88) came with the passenger drop 241. My '02 Dodge has the driver drop 241.
My 82 has a pass side
I’m about to replace the shift selector rod seal on my 241.
Do the fork pads too
My fork pads are still in great shape. I’m not even going to drop the case to do this job. It’s just been a pain in the ass seeing a drip or 2 coming from the shift selector rod.
Hell ya brother
I know it’s a old video but do you run the support bracket that goes to the side of the transfer case? If not have you had any issues without it?
I have a 240 something in my 2004 GMC duramax. Transfer case got melted. Transmission shop said it was from pump rub. We never seen anything leaking but we live in sand. And no rough wheeling. Just light mud while feeding cattle in the pasture during the winter. I much prefer the 205 that I put in my 1969 Chevy 3/4 ton. And is already in our 1972 3/4 ton suburban. Also, does the 241 have to go behind the tremec in your suburban? Or could you put a 205 behind it?
I am planning on putting a 205 behind it. Sometimes sand and low traction can be really hard on a transmission and transfer case
Yes magnum 205😁
Correct me if I'm wrong but wouldn't my 76 AWD blazer have the cast iron 208 with the diff on it?
Well you AWD Blazer is part time 4wd not AWD. I think the 205 came in the 76, not the 208. The 205 is cast, the 208 is aluminum and the generation prior to the 241
@@MerricksGarage it has no 2wd option
@@MerricksGarage its got hi lock hi unlock low lock low unlock
🤷🏼♂️didn’t know that! That’s pretty cool.
@@MerricksGarage yeah pickups had it too other than that I dont know much about it. The thing is massive and super heavy with the center diff built into it
What type of fluid is best for this Tcase ??
I generally run ATF in a chain drive and gear oil in gear driven
What do you think about np208 transfer case....
its a decent transfer case. But not really work throwing money at. The 241 is the next gen of the 208 and came with oil pump, two more planetary gears and can have a slip yoke eliminator kit installed relatively easy. If you have the 208, run it until it dies!
Here i am still doing body work things 🙃
The usmc knows how to not treat toys lol