Hello sir ....got a question here. I recently bought a v65 magna and I'm pretty sure the carbs have never been done however once I got it home I cleaned the rust outta tank and replaced the bad fuel filter(was very bad) and it ran "alright" but when you got on the gas a bit it was hesitating and then it would get "on it" as though the fuel was there. I'm seriously getting ready to but a carb rebuild kit because I'm almost certain it needs it. Fast forward 4-5 days since i bought it and now it seems to be back-firing and I can smell rich gas coming from the right side of exaust very strong. (Less so on the left side exaust). Also take note that the back-fire sometimes sounds like its coming from the front head or either coming from the air intake somewhere? Also I replaced the spark plugs.... Can you advise me please. Thanks so much for you help.
Could be any number of things. Floats not set right, a needle valve stuck open, pinched gasket. It's really had to say but from the history I would think something wrong with in the carbs. I sold one of my magnas last summer and a few days later the guy brought it back with a similar problem. Gas dripping from one tailpipe. Strong odor of gasoline. I grudgingly pulled the carps and disassembled them again and found that the main metering jet had vibrated our to the carb body and I found it laying in the bottom of the bowl. Was sucking gas right our to the bowl without any metering. If your are running rich, (and I think you are) you probably have raw gas in the intake port all the time and if it ignites it sill sound like it is coming from the air box. If a piece of grit gets between the needle vlave and the needle it can hold it open. I know its a pain but your going to have to pull them again and go through the steps again to see if something is abnormal. Make sure Jet screws are torqued down and floats are set correct and none of the needles are sticking open.
When I try to set my carbs I have noticed that the butterflys will move a little on their Own?? I don't think they should do that so can you advise me on what to do? Thanks for any help Sir
There is a spring that should try to close the main carb. Make sure that is working and the main carb is being pushed against the idle adjustment screw. There should be a spring under each of the other setting screws to keep tension at all times. I would check and make sure that all the springs are there and securely in place. Also any adjustment that you make that affects the main setting will change the setting of the other three. Sometimes you will need to go through the settings several times to make sure recent adjustments do not affect the ones you have already done.
I had my cabs off my 700 v 45 and after cleaning them and putting back together i noticed one of the the springs on the adjusters was different than the other 3 i had them rebuilt before at a honda shop and it ran great. a couple of days later it would only run with choke on,so that is why i took them apart to reclean as i had to replace the reserve tank. my question is on which carb does the bigger spring go? thank you for any help on this!
I really cant say. I sold the bike an it is not available. But memory says they are all the same size. Maybe the shop lost one and made a substitute. I dont think it matters as long as the spring keeps tension against the two metal plates.
Of course it is. But the closer you can get it on the bench the less time you will spend and the less trouble you will have after you put them back in your bike. You should always follow up with an synch in the bike. ruclips.net/video/sfdEehWDtXE/видео.html
Any old needle or hard round object will work as long as it is smooth and hard. I know of some using the shaft of a small drill bit. The ones I am using in the video are actual the smallest of a set of carburetor jet cleaning files.( the smallest ones are smooth) . I have also used the E string from a guitar. The point being is that it is easy to tell when it is grabbed by the butterfly and when it is released ...no guesswork. Also hard metal needle will not distort from one use to the next so all carbs are set exactly the same.
It does not matter. You can use any hard metal smooth shaft. I have used the end of a small drill bit. Open the idle screw until it will accept the needle/drillbit, then close it until it gets a grip...then open it until it just lets go.... then use the sync screws on the other carbs to do the same until the are all adjusted to the same opening. When you are done return your idle screw to where you started.
Brilliant, thank you for taking the time to make this video and for posting it.
Thank you for the video this was very helpful!!!
Thank you very much
Great video. Do you use a vacuum to further dial it in, or have you found that the bench synch works without the need of any further synching?
I use a pop bottle balancer like this. ruclips.net/video/sfdEehWDtXE/видео.htmlsi=cyKgMmR2cwcQ2W_j
You can you put all four carburetors on the same time
Thanks so much!
Do you think a needle,,,, would be more accurate,,,, then a piece of 12 gauge copper electric wiring,,,. ????
Hello sir ....got a question here. I recently bought a v65 magna and I'm pretty sure the carbs have never been done however once I got it home I cleaned the rust outta tank and replaced the bad fuel filter(was very bad) and it ran "alright" but when you got on the gas a bit it was hesitating and then it would get "on it" as though the fuel was there. I'm seriously getting ready to but a carb rebuild kit because I'm almost certain it needs it. Fast forward 4-5 days since i bought it and now it seems to be back-firing and I can smell rich gas coming from the right side of exaust very strong. (Less so on the left side exaust). Also take note that the back-fire sometimes sounds like its coming from the front head or either coming from the air intake somewhere? Also I replaced the spark plugs.... Can you advise me please. Thanks so much for you help.
Could be any number of things. Floats not set right, a needle valve stuck open, pinched gasket. It's really had to say but from the history I would think something wrong with in the carbs. I sold one of my magnas last summer and a few days later the guy brought it back with a similar problem. Gas dripping from one tailpipe. Strong odor of gasoline. I grudgingly pulled the carps and disassembled them again and found that the main metering jet had vibrated our to the carb body and I found it laying in the bottom of the bowl. Was sucking gas right our to the bowl without any metering. If your are running rich, (and I think you are) you probably have raw gas in the intake port all the time and if it ignites it sill sound like it is coming from the air box. If a piece of grit gets between the needle vlave and the needle it can hold it open.
I know its a pain but your going to have to pull them again and go through the steps again to see if something is abnormal. Make sure Jet screws are torqued down and floats are set correct and none of the needles are sticking open.
When I try to set my carbs I have noticed that the butterflys will move a little on their Own?? I don't think they should do that so can you advise me on what to do? Thanks for any help Sir
There is a spring that should try to close the main carb. Make sure that is working and the main carb is being pushed against the idle adjustment screw.
There should be a spring under each of the other setting screws to keep tension at all times. I would check and make sure that all the springs are there and securely in place. Also any adjustment that you make that affects the main setting will change the setting of the other three. Sometimes you will need to go through the settings several times to make sure recent adjustments do not affect the ones you have already done.
I had my cabs off my 700 v 45 and after cleaning them and putting back together i noticed one of the the springs on the adjusters was different than the other 3 i had them rebuilt before at a honda shop and it ran great. a couple of days later it would only run with choke on,so that is why i took them apart to reclean as i had to replace the reserve tank. my question is on which carb does the bigger spring go? thank you for any help on this!
I really cant say. I sold the bike an it is not available. But memory says they are all the same size. Maybe the shop lost one and made a substitute. I dont think it matters as long as the spring keeps tension against the two metal plates.
@@gerrypineau thank you
Do you have to put all four carburetors on the same time
Yes, its not fun. but they are all bolter together and the linkage connects them all so they must go in as a single assembly
Isn't an active sync better than a bench sync?
Of course it is. But the closer you can get it on the bench the less time you will spend and the less trouble you will have after you put them back in your bike. You should always follow up with an synch in the bike. ruclips.net/video/sfdEehWDtXE/видео.html
Where did you get the needles at?
Any old needle or hard round object will work as long as it is smooth and hard. I know of some using the shaft of a small drill bit. The ones I am using in the video are actual the smallest of a set of carburetor jet cleaning files.( the smallest ones are smooth) . I have also used the E string from a guitar. The point being is that it is easy to tell when it is grabbed by the butterfly and when it is released ...no guesswork. Also hard metal needle will not distort from one use to the next so all carbs are set exactly the same.
What size needle are you using?
It does not matter. You can use any hard metal smooth shaft. I have used the end of a small drill bit. Open the idle screw until it will accept the needle/drillbit, then close it until it gets a grip...then open it until it just lets go.... then use the sync screws on the other carbs to do the same until the are all adjusted to the same opening. When you are done return your idle screw to where you started.
Une synchro rampe démontée?!! T'es sérieux révise mon gars tu as 1 chance sur 2 pour que ce soit correct 😡😡😡
Why?