Wow! I spent all day labeling and drawing out every wire on a hand drawn schematic for the Bass Tracker I own. I got my bilge, accessories, and aerator buttons to work. But for the life of me I have stared at my nav/anchor wiring map until I'm blue in the face and have failed to make sense of it. I quit for the night, and am I glad I did, because I stumbled on this video. Your explanation was priceless and wonderfully done! I can't wait until tomorrow to take my notes and tackle the problem again. With your help I am positive I can figure out why it is not working. Thank you! Thank you! Thank you!
I had to replace Nav/Anc switch on my boat...I watched your very well done and easy to follow video clicked on the link and ordered the exact switch you demonstrated with...I'll install it in the morning with complete confidence...I identified all the existing wires while I waited for the mailman to bring me the switch which arrived sooner than expected. Thank you.
Thank you!! You are a lifesaver. I have been struggling with wiring for so long until your video. Any chance you have a video that shows how to connect adjoining rocker switches? The Nav/Anchor switch is the middle of 5 switches.
thank you very much,this was driving me insane ,, your video was super helpful even though i have an 8 pin switch i did like you showed worked perfect , keep up the vids
So I have a question could I use this switch to make turn signals if so any help would be greatly appreciated thanks I understand your using it for a boat
my existing switch has 4 terminals, will this work? I can't find a 4 terminal switch. I assume I have the Contura III ?? for Nav/Anc and for dock light/mood light. The existing works in down for anchor light only, when I switch up for nav it blinks for a second and goes blank.
Eric, finally got my switch wired correctly! The only problem I have is the small courtesy light in the center of the switch stays on all the time! How do I get that tiny switch to go off when switch is not on??? Please help!!!
Lights in the switches usually come on when there is power on the output, so sounds like you have power going into an output and out of an input. You could also just buy the switch in the video and wire it exactly like the video and it would work 😂
@@NewWireMarine In to out and out to in, that was the problem! The color codes for both input and output wires were the same, that’s what threw me off. Thanks so much Eric. Just want you to know the we wanna be techs who try to fix thing ourselves appreciate you so much, making these videos and helping us. Thanks again!
if i want to install some courtesy led strips and have them on during the up position... can i piggyback terminal 3 for the led positive wire and tap the led negative wire to the switch negative wire?
Probably should try and ohm it out with a meter to be sure, but as long as it’s a DPDT with six contact pins, then it’s symmetrical and should make a difference! Sounds like it’s not a Carling brand switch, so possible it’s different… obviously one thing is 😮
For the power jumper, is it soldered under the heat shrink to connect the two primaries? Or do you sell a female disconnect that has two wire connections?
This is a very useful video! thank you... I do have a question.... What is the amperage rating for the circuit breaker? I am using this very same setup using LED lights. Thank you *update.. My switches arrived today.. i also bought the Volt Meter. Would i wire the Volt meter before the circuit breaker?
@@NewWireMarine Hello there!! Thanks for the reply! I'll continue with the project in a week or so. Winter came and the project stopped. Your information and video was everything i needed. The switches and meter are of perfect quality! Thanks for everything.
Are these rocker switches strong enough to run led fog lights (limited use) ran through the fuse box without a wiring harness and relay? My fog lights are 18w and 36w. If I understand correctly that means it’s only about 2amp and 3amp systems. The rocker switches seem to be strong enough to run straight current through right? I’m only flipping them on and off to see around me on a 18ft pontoon. Even running for a long period of time I don’t see why I’d need a relay... am I wrong? Thank you!
@@nmfishdude200 I'm sure that you will get a more definitive answer from the channel owner. I can offer this.. you can never go wrong with a Relay. I use them in my truck with my Fogs and driving lights(full disclosure they come with the Harness) I also call it cheap insurance. I like to call it an "Auxiliary switch". It does not appear that you will require one for your application. I would like to hear what the people here have to say.
5A probably for modern LED nav lights would be fine. Put the voltmeter wherever in the system you want to monitor the voltage... so probably before the breaker (with it's on inline fuse), yes.
I've followed this to the letter but my masthead all around white LED only comes on in the anchor position and only the two rear LED's light??? It has three LED lights in a triangular config.
So, this video is for a (2) load nav/anc setup... (1) red/green light forward, and (1) white light aft. For the red/green | Fwd masthead | aft masthead | stern light setup it's slightly different. We'll try and make a video on that soon.
Well you can't on this switch b/c the lights are dependent (internally triggered). You'd have to 'dim' the load as well, which you would not want to do probably. If you used this switch you could: newwiremarine.com/product/on-off-on-dpdt-indep-lamps/ You'd need to insert dimmer modules or resistors between the output terminals and the independent lamp terminal (diagram at link above). The easier thing to do is probably use a SPST unlit switch like this: newwiremarine.com/product/v1d1-s00b-spst-no-lamp/ And break the negative to the entire panel, making all the switch lights turn off when it's really dark. Back in the day I'd also occasionally put masking tape over it when we were going out early in the morning.
Domenick Palmiotto exactly the same except you don’t have a lights in your switch, so you won’t have a terminal 7. See link above to get a lighted one.
Wow! I spent all day labeling and drawing out every wire on a hand drawn schematic for the Bass Tracker I own. I got my bilge, accessories, and aerator buttons to work. But for the life of me I have stared at my nav/anchor wiring map until I'm blue in the face and have failed to make sense of it. I quit for the night, and am I glad I did, because I stumbled on this video. Your explanation was priceless and wonderfully done! I can't wait until tomorrow to take my notes and tackle the problem again. With your help I am positive I can figure out why it is not working. Thank you! Thank you! Thank you!
Wow thank you.. after trying all day with no success I watched your video and hooked it up.
I had to replace Nav/Anc switch on my boat...I watched your very well done and easy to follow video clicked on the link and ordered the exact switch you demonstrated with...I'll install it in the morning with complete confidence...I identified all the existing wires while I waited for the mailman to bring me the switch which arrived sooner than expected. Thank you.
Great, glad we could help Bob!
Hello Eric, this was an awesome video. Saved me a switch port on my dash. Now i can add my new flood light!
Quality video guys! Thank you! These switches have confused me but your video has answered all my questions! Well done!
This video just made my life so much easier thanks for this info.
lmao....What exactly...
Thank you very much for this excellent explanation and demonstration.
Thank you!! You are a lifesaver. I have been struggling with wiring for so long until your video. Any chance you have a video that shows how to connect adjoining rocker switches? The Nav/Anchor switch is the middle of 5 switches.
thank you very much,this was driving me insane ,, your video was super helpful even though i have an 8 pin switch i did like you showed worked perfect , keep up the vids
Finally got mine to work thanks to this video!
Are Relays suggested, to reduce Amperage passing through Switch ? Where does Fusing go in the Circuit ?
Thank You for the Clear content 👍🏼
Merci beaucoup ❤❤❤❤❤❤
Hey buddy awesome video can you tell me where you bought the switch thanks
Sorry to be so much trouble, still learning!
Thanks guys and I figured it out by the old hunt and blow bulbs technique! I’ll try and post a vid!!🤣🤦🏻♂️
Hi, thanks for the vid. One question: is the panel waterproof, from your experience ? My use case might be days where it rains all day.
Can I connect my boat compus to terminal 4? If so could you upload a video to compliment this one as well.
Where would you wire the compass that has a power source to it as well?
Also, I would that connection work with multiple toggle switches?
Why use the jumper on terminal on rather than connect to terminal two for the out to the light?
Great video
awesome, glad we could help... going to try to make some more for various other random wiring as soon as we get a chance.
❤❤❤❤❤
So I have a question could I use this switch to make turn signals if so any help would be greatly appreciated thanks I understand your using it for a boat
Can I connect to one of the wires with a T-tap to power a courtesy light in the down position (anchor light only)?
For down position only you can connect your courtesy lights to Terminal 4 (the only open one left)
my existing switch has 4 terminals, will this work? I can't find a 4 terminal switch. I assume I have the Contura III ?? for Nav/Anc and for dock light/mood light. The existing works in down for anchor light only, when I switch up for nav it blinks for a second and goes blank.
Eric, finally got my switch wired correctly! The only problem I have is the small courtesy light in the center of the switch stays on all the time! How do I get that tiny switch to go off when switch is not on??? Please help!!!
Lights in the switches usually come on when there is power on the output, so sounds like you have power going into an output and out of an input. You could also just buy the switch in the video and wire it exactly like the video and it would work 😂
@@NewWireMarine In to out and out to in, that was the problem! The color codes for both input and output wires were the same, that’s what threw me off. Thanks so much Eric. Just want you to know the we wanna be techs who try to fix thing ourselves appreciate you so much, making these videos and helping us. Thanks again!
Where would I plug in the wire for the backlights for the other switches? The only diagram on the website is for the 10 pin switch.
very nice!
What is the Circuit breaker used
if i want to install some courtesy led strips and have them on during the up position... can i piggyback terminal 3 for the led positive wire and tap the led negative wire to the switch negative wire?
Yes on the positive. I’d run the negative through the main negative bus though, not the negative on the switch.
So if the ground pin is on the left top instead of right, does that make the other pins backwards as well???
Probably should try and ohm it out with a meter to be sure, but as long as it’s a DPDT with six contact pins, then it’s symmetrical and should make a difference! Sounds like it’s not a Carling brand switch, so possible it’s different… obviously one thing is 😮
@@NewWireMarine the 3 position switches have the ground on the same side as your example.
what gauge wire and do you do custom wire jumpers for multiple switch panels? I have a panel with 18 switches 9 on each side.
Does this have to have a circuit breaker? Or can I wire the power directly into the switch?
Yes, every load should have a breaker or fuse
@@NewWireMarine there is an in-line 10 amp fuse in the circuit. Does that suffice?
@@Eriicerrr yes, an inline fuse is still Circuit protection that will prevent a short circuit from causing a fight… seems like you’re 👍
For the power jumper, is it soldered under the heat shrink to connect the two primaries?
Or do you sell a female disconnect that has two wire connections?
No, a good crimp and heat shrink is all you need. This terminal will fit two 16AWG's into it: newwiremarine.com/product/12-10awg-quick-connect/
This is a very useful video! thank you... I do have a question.... What is the amperage rating for the circuit breaker? I am using this very same setup using LED lights.
Thank you
*update.. My switches arrived today.. i also bought the Volt Meter. Would i wire the Volt meter before the circuit breaker?
Check your load documentation, but with modern LED lights a 5A should be fine. I'd put the voltmeter after the breaker just in case there's a short
@@NewWireMarine Hello there!!
Thanks for the reply! I'll continue with the project in a week or so. Winter came and the project stopped. Your information and video was everything i needed. The switches and meter are of perfect quality! Thanks for everything.
Are these rocker switches strong enough to run led fog lights (limited use) ran through the fuse box without a wiring harness and relay? My fog lights are 18w and 36w. If I understand correctly that means it’s only about 2amp and 3amp systems. The rocker switches seem to be strong enough to run straight current through right? I’m only flipping them on and off to see around me on a 18ft pontoon. Even running for a long period of time I don’t see why I’d need a relay... am I wrong? Thank you!
@@nmfishdude200 I'm sure that you will get a more definitive answer from the channel owner. I can offer this.. you can never go wrong with a Relay. I use them in my truck with my Fogs and driving lights(full disclosure they come with the Harness) I also call it cheap insurance. I like to call it an "Auxiliary switch". It does not appear that you will require one for your application. I would like to hear what the people here have to say.
5A probably for modern LED nav lights would be fine. Put the voltmeter wherever in the system you want to monitor the voltage... so probably before the breaker (with it's on inline fuse), yes.
You should do a trim tab switch wiring video cause they’re pretty much the same
I have a switch just like this that pops the circuit breaker after about 5 seconds of being on. Can anyone provide info on how to diagnose why
What if my switch has 8 terminals? Should I jump 7 and 8
No, 7 is negative, 8 is positive for top light… jump 6 and 8 and the top light will come on when the switch is up or down.
Order placed for my custom panel for which i will use this diagram.
I've followed this to the letter but my masthead all around white LED only comes on in the anchor position and only the two rear LED's light??? It has three LED lights in a triangular config.
So, this video is for a (2) load nav/anc setup... (1) red/green light forward, and (1) white light aft.
For the red/green | Fwd masthead | aft masthead | stern light setup it's slightly different. We'll try and make a video on that soon.
How does one install a dimmer for the switch LED lights?
Well you can't on this switch b/c the lights are dependent (internally triggered). You'd have to 'dim' the load as well, which you would not want to do probably.
If you used this switch you could: newwiremarine.com/product/on-off-on-dpdt-indep-lamps/ You'd need to insert dimmer modules or resistors between the output terminals and the independent lamp terminal (diagram at link above).
The easier thing to do is probably use a SPST unlit switch like this: newwiremarine.com/product/v1d1-s00b-spst-no-lamp/ And break the negative to the entire panel, making all the switch lights turn off when it's really dark.
Back in the day I'd also occasionally put masking tape over it when we were going out early in the morning.
How would this be done on a 6 pin switch?
Domenick Palmiotto exactly the same except you don’t have a lights in your switch, so you won’t have a terminal 7. See link above to get a lighted one.
NewWireMarine there is a light in my switch but it is an old switch no led
Domenick Palmiotto I don’t know them, maybe just get a new one where you know the pin outs... it’s less than $20.
No diode???