I’ve just had this exact same issue, I got some 17am (instead of 5amp or whatever MB fit as standard) and soldered it directly to the metal of the bulb holder, with the other end of the 60cm wire I put a ring connector on it and connected it directly to the earthing point near the fuse box, I then put some electrical tape over the old thin burnt brown Ground cable - Job done! Lights are now bright again and working fine - Tools needed = Soldering iron and solder, 17amp wire, connector to attach to the earthing point.
I have just sorted this on my mate's Mercedes C220 W204. The total draw on all of these bulbs if they were to be on simultaneously is 9.4A. The 5 large bulbs draw 1.8A each an the 1 side lamp bulb draws 400mA. So you're not going to have any issues with the individual lamp circuits fro a current perspective. But how likely is it, you might ask, you're going to have all of the lamps on at any given time? Not likely. So I don't think it's necessarily a matter of under spec cable for the ground wire. It's not like they all have this problem. If it was you would expect the same issue on the other side of the car. In my mate's case it is just on the left cluster. I think the problem is the crimping on that wire. Too tight. Squashes the copper to such an extent that it reduces the cross sectional area of the cable and therefore dramatically increases the resistance at that point and thus the heat damaging the cable. So I decided to upgrade the brown ground wire to 20A cable and solder the connector to the cable instead of crimping. Just on that cable. I then spliced that new cable to the original brown cable using a WAGO splicer which is good for 32A. Probably a little bit of overkill. A decent crimp on the original brown wire would probably be fine. I just wanted to make sure it didn't happen again given it's my mate's car not mine. Anyway. Thanks for the video.
I saw today after i changed also the left side .. the socket was melted .. the reason is that i don t know how the water was present ... between the plugs .. the electric part is made by Delphy Romania.... as you can observe the label..
New circuit cluster with bulb new plug and an extra earth brown wire that's goes to body inner back ring bolt you can it. Mecedes do a kit with all in.
If it's the earth-wire (brown?) you can just cut the wire just outside the connector and crimp on a spade-connector. Then connect/solder a wire to the earth-point just inside where it burned on the bulb-socket-plate(on the BARE metal, sand this area down BEFORE soldering and use flux). Then it's just a matter of routing that wire through the bulb-socket-plate and connect it to the brown earth wire with a corresponding crimp-connector on that :) I just did this myself and it works just fine :) Cost = 0. (if you have the tools).
unfortunately, its time on the other side, as same as before. I don't know why.... :( I could smell strongly something burnt at the compartment storage. The brown wire and its plastic head melted and sticked with the socket... If I connect the wire (brown) to the BARE metal, does it long enough?
If you remove the brown wire from the connector, cut away the damaged part of the wire and extend it so it reaches the bare metal contact on the inside of the bukb-holder-plate, you should be back in business. The entire problem here is a bad earth, making an intermittent connection causing sparks which then leads to overheating the connector until it burns out.
I’ve just had this exact same issue, I got some 17am (instead of 5amp or whatever MB fit as standard) and soldered it directly to the metal of the bulb holder, with the other end of the 60cm wire I put a ring connector on it and connected it directly to the earthing point near the fuse box, I then put some electrical tape over the old thin burnt brown Ground cable - Job done! Lights are now bright again and working fine - Tools needed = Soldering iron and solder, 17amp wire, connector to attach to the earthing point.
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I’ve just had this exact same issue, I got some 17am (instead of 5amp or whatever MB fit as standard) and soldered it directly to the metal of the bulb holder, with the other end of the 60cm wire I put a ring connector on it and connected it directly to the earthing point near the fuse box, I then put some electrical tape over the old thin burnt brown Ground cable - Job done! Lights are now bright again and working fine - Tools needed = Soldering iron and solder, 17amp wire, connector to attach to the earthing point.
Did you car ever light on fire? I want to do this to save money but I’m worried it could be a fire hazard
I have just sorted this on my mate's Mercedes C220 W204.
The total draw on all of these bulbs if they were to be on simultaneously is 9.4A.
The 5 large bulbs draw 1.8A each an the 1 side lamp bulb draws 400mA.
So you're not going to have any issues with the individual lamp circuits fro a current perspective.
But how likely is it, you might ask, you're going to have all of the lamps on at any given time?
Not likely.
So I don't think it's necessarily a matter of under spec cable for the ground wire.
It's not like they all have this problem.
If it was you would expect the same issue on the other side of the car.
In my mate's case it is just on the left cluster.
I think the problem is the crimping on that wire. Too tight.
Squashes the copper to such an extent that it reduces the cross sectional area of the cable
and therefore dramatically increases the resistance at that point and thus the heat damaging the cable.
So I decided to upgrade the brown ground wire to 20A cable and solder the connector to the cable instead
of crimping. Just on that cable. I then spliced that new cable to the original brown cable using a WAGO
splicer which is good for 32A.
Probably a little bit of overkill. A decent crimp on the original brown wire would probably be fine.
I just wanted to make sure it didn't happen again given it's my mate's car not mine.
Anyway.
Thanks for the video.
I saw today after i changed also the left side .. the socket was melted .. the reason is that i don t know how the water was present ... between the plugs .. the electric part is made by Delphy Romania.... as you can observe the label..
Same problem for me and same side!
Have the exactly the same problem on my w204. Brown wire Burt/ melted in socket and connector. Destroyed. MB has a faulty connector.
i have the exact same issue with my right rear lights. the same wire is also burnt into the panel just like yours.
did you manage to fix yours DIY?
any news ? same issue
yes. same issue and one pin of connector melted. The light socket and the connector were replaced. Luckily, the new socket including all light bulbs.
W211tail and reverse light are not functioning all fuses are okay plz any one can help me to find out actual problem.
Yes
It will happen again if you dont put extra earth wire to body of car.
Take to MB dealership and they will replace the lighting cluster and rewire for free. I had same issue with my out-of-warranty Benz.
Lol they just told me 140
Highly Faded well you need to remind them that MB know all about this and they'll do free.
TheNikfantastic I have this same issue and it’s $350 the guy said. Smh
is that in Australia?
Same issue. Obviously a manufacturing defect.
My W204 ‘ve got the same problem, how did you fix it, plz help
go to the wreckers and cut a plug
New circuit cluster with bulb new plug and an extra earth brown wire that's goes to body inner back ring bolt you can it. Mecedes do a kit with all in.
Same here 🤬
Same problem on my car
Why not show the world how to supply and fit a new light holder and plug as this is a common issue with this mode.
hey guy, my w204 as same as you melted with the last connector , what can we do?
any news?
If it's the earth-wire (brown?) you can just cut the wire just outside the connector and crimp on a spade-connector. Then connect/solder a wire to the earth-point just inside where it burned on the bulb-socket-plate(on the BARE metal, sand this area down BEFORE soldering and use flux). Then it's just a matter of routing that wire through the bulb-socket-plate and connect it to the brown earth wire with a corresponding crimp-connector on that :)
I just did this myself and it works just fine :) Cost = 0. (if you have the tools).
unfortunately, its time on the other side, as same as before. I don't know why.... :( I could smell strongly something burnt at the compartment storage. The brown wire and its plastic head melted and sticked with the socket... If I connect the wire (brown) to the BARE metal, does it long enough?
If you remove the brown wire from the connector, cut away the damaged part of the wire and extend it so it reaches the bare metal contact on the inside of the bukb-holder-plate, you should be back in business.
The entire problem here is a bad earth, making an intermittent connection causing sparks which then leads to overheating the connector until it burns out.
I’ve just had this exact same issue, I got some 17am (instead of 5amp or whatever MB fit as standard) and soldered it directly to the metal of the bulb holder, with the other end of the 60cm wire I put a ring connector on it and connected it directly to the earthing point near the fuse box, I then put some electrical tape over the old thin burnt brown Ground cable - Job done! Lights are now bright again and working fine - Tools needed = Soldering iron and solder, 17amp wire, connector to attach to the earthing point.
How is this not a recall??
Thought the same thing