Tally Ho Capstan Project: Measuring, Drawing, & Setting up the Capstan Drum Rotation Shaft
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- Опубликовано: 31 мар 2024
- Tally Ho Capstan Project: Measuring, Drawing, & Setting up the Capstan Drum Rotation Shaft
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I'm lucky to live near Tally Ho and have seen it several times. I've also watched all of Leo's videos from the very start. I didn't know anything about wooden boats at first, but watching this has taught me tons. Being a woodworker and retired engineer, I must say that I'm hugely impressed by the level of quality and craftsmanship being built into this beautiful boat. Keith, your efforts, and those of the Windy Hill folks who did the casting, will add greatly to the beauty and functionality of this impressive craft. All of us who follow this project appreciate your efforts. Isn't it great to watch people come together to work creatively and constructively on a common goal? It's the human spirit put into action.
What he said 😊. Nice work Keith!
@@jeffreysmith5018 You have summed things up exactly.
Took the words right out of my mouth ! 🤓
...if you say so...
In my younger years I use to be a lorry truck fitter, rebuilding large diesel engines, suspension systems and general maintenance. Never during that period did I give a second though to the engineering of the parts I was using. At 77 years old my view has completely changed due to the series, now I see parts in a differ light, thank you for these very informative videos
Turning that age myself this year. Take care.
Keith, just a thought, you measured the long taper with the tape measure, but that’s the hypotenuse of the tapers triangle…. That 0.1002” per inch, might be 0.1000. I think it’s called cosine error, you should use a square and measure the shaft length, not the taper…. Best.
The tape was used only to get a rough measure of the length. The taper micrometer gave a very accurate
reading of the taper angle.
1969/1970 High School Draftsman here... It has served me well!!!
Same here, same year. I really enjoyed the class. But. Given that I became a professional software engineer, the alternative Typing class would have served me better.
Smell the ammonia.
@@iDuckman I took a typing class, too, mainly because of a tall, willowy blond young lady I wanted to get to know. Then off to get my degree in computer science... IBM 1401 Auto Coder programmer to begin with...
@@OwenFromOhiosame reasoning I took typing, the only thing I remember of that whole semester is asdf. Ah but the young ladies
@@OwenFromOhio My NAVY OC review board asked, " Why did you do these Senior Year Art class and a Typing class when you were already doing Drafting, Workshop and Sciences?" My answer satisfied the whole golden braided panel, " Well Sir, that was where all of the pretty girls from my Junior Year were going." A few smiles and a knowing wink passed among the Big Knobs.
As a machinist for more than 40 years, I absolutely appreciate you sharing this wonderful informative video with us. Thanks!
Tally Ho was originally built in England in 1910 - threads are likely to be 55 deg Whitworth rather than 60 deg UNC.
Dam write and why not
UNC and DIN threads have 60°, old Whitworth has 55°
Whitworth and UNC measure in inches.
But with Whitworth BSP (British Standart Pipe) thread an inch is 33.25mm not 25.4mm !
Well having just looked at the Whitworth chart
1.5 dia is 6 tpi and
2.0 dia is 4.5 tpi
So this shaft is made with what the machinist wanted cause he was making all of it
Interesting fact: ISO standard pipe threads are really BSP and they have a Whitworth 55 degree form too.
The reason for this might be that Whitworth has rounded rather than flat thread peaks, so makes a better seal in tapered thread applications.
And, also, it was already existing and common.
@@jensschroder8214 BSP refers to the nominal bore of a typical pipe, not the OD
Keith 1 3/8 6 is a standard BSW thread size, you might want to check the pitch angle (55 deg for BSW)
I was going to say the same as the Tally Ho was built in England 🇬🇧
@@Paul-FrancisB should have English flag 🏴
@@chipperkeithmgb It will have one soon enough.
Well, he probably turned this shaft right after this video, so he won’t see this until it’s too late unfortunately. So the new shaft will have an American thread pitch. ☹️
@@chipperkeithmgb 🤣 England had been part it the great union for a couple of centuries when the boat was built so either is appropriate. Perhaps to be more precise it should be blue with 6 gold marlets, and a gold bar to represent West Sussex
Many parts and pieces have been done from drawings on stick it notes and scraps of paper to table napkins. As long as you have the information you need it doesn't matter what paper it is on. Have only ever seen a taper mic once. Always had to trig them out unless I could get the engineer to do it for me. Always got by somehow. Yea I scrapped out sometimes but that is all in it. Can't wait to see the finished product. The guy who is building Tally Ho came to a small hardwood saw mill in south Ga. not far from where I live to get a lot of the oak slabs he built the boat with. The state of Ga. has provided a great deal of input in materials and labor such as Keith's assistance in helping with the capstan build. Imagine that...
Really enjoyed your reference to HS Drafting courses...I took 4 years worth of both architectural and mechanical drafting, like you it was all "old school" hand drawing. Very fond memories indeed...
I took my first drafting class as a freshman at Brooklyn Technical High School....in 1956. Tee square and triangle. pencil and sandpaper pad were our tools.
I'm a retired Industrial Arts (Tech. Ed.) Teacher. I took 2 years of Mechanical and Architectural drawing in college. Computer aided drafting came later. I went back for a second career in teaching after 22 years out and took a course in computer aided drafting to update my certification. I would take nothing for my education in mechanical drafting. I'm of the opinion that should be a prerequisite before taking CAD.
@@jackgreen412 100% agreed...IMO nothing beats a hand-drawn blueprint, architectural or mechanical. You become intimately aware of what you are doing, whereas CAD tends to remove to much from the actual decision and thought process.
I had 4 yrs, served me well! 9th grade old Swedish, taunt neatness by ink well drawings, and it really worked.
1968-1971
"Chicken Scratch" drawing. Brilliant description!!
I am a career structural draftsman ... 40+ yrs. and counting. Hand drafting, AutoCAD, and now REVIT. Your drawing looks great Keith !! I am really impressed by your machining skills and knowledge. I can't wait to see the finished capstan on the tally Ho.
I'm scared about corrosion getting to the custom/one off parts created by artisans.. that capstan will be hellish to fix it rust gets it's way. Leo seems thoughtful and careful so he's likely got it all in hand but man..
@jonunya3128 The capstan will most likely see the most abuse. Especially with salt water. Hopefully they can use some sort of anti-corrosive paint or coating to mitigate corrosion. Leo seems to have thought of a great many details and he has a pretty knowledgeable team working with him.
I took Mechanical Drawing in HS as well... t-squares, rulers, and slide rules. I won our school's mechanical drawing contest as a Freshman and am still the only student to have won it all 4 years.
I am so jealous - because you obviously learned to letter. I could conceptualize and draw just about any shape, but I couldn't letter for ship.
Same here.. I did both Mechanical (technical) Drawing in HS and Metalwork too. Excelled in both. Achieved the highest ever scores in both exams and was in the newspapers 🎓. Whilst everyone else was making swords and Chinese throwing stars I designed and spent my whole HS years making a full functioning draughtsman's table which the head of the department bought. As a side piece I also cast and turned two complete chess sets out of aluminium. For my achievement I was awarded a scholarship at the British engineering company Babcock beating over 1000 applicants. Suffice to say, as an unruly young adult I completely ruined the opportunity, never turned up 60% of the time then quit. As I look back now after a life spent working in IT, how I wish I'd done things differently.
Thank you for doing this for Leo, a work of art, like the whole boat!
This is the best "setting up a steady rest" video. Using center finder to mark the center. Using a live center to indicate the actual center. Then adjusting the two lower rollers to move the stock to align with the live center.
Great, clear explanation of how to do this simple, but not so simple, machining setup task.
I also took 4 years drafting both mechanical and architectural from 1968-1971, T-square, 45, 30/60 triangles, pencils, sandpaper, loved it. Great videos as always... Thank you...
Me too, don't really use it now though but loved using "French curves".
I did mine in 1963 and 1964. Plus a college semester each in 1982 just to fill a square for a A.S. from CCAF.
Thank you for sharing.👍
Just love this!
Great thank you Keith!! 🙏
I did my surveying civil engineering work in college 71' with a slide rule, pencil, and CRC table book. trig calculators were $300. any of you viewers remember Curta calculators.? Love your fine explanations of your procedures. Thanks a million. My buddies were machinists most of my life and I miss getting Govt work done by them. Machinists cant fix stupid but if you give them a minute they'll take a look at it. wonderful folks on this entire project.
So great to see all these great videos from creators that are working with the Tally Ho project.
Hey Keith, It's always a good visit when you post for us. In this case blueprinting a piece really has it's merits. Having the old piece many won't do this and go back and forth between machine and old part. I far support making the blueprint to work this from. No back and forth nonsense. We can save a lot of time this way. I worked for almost 20 years on an old Chez late that had A taper attachment and over all that time never had the opportunity to use it. I am really looking forward to see you do the post up and coming to see just how yours is done. See you then Keith. Always good to see you bud.
cool set up
Thanks Keith. Great stuff.
1"-3/8 6tpi is a standard Whitworth thread. It is likely 55 degree not 60. New nuts will be needed if you cut to 60 degree.
Amazing!
Thank you Keith!
Total joy watching you work.
Great video looking forward to watching the process!
Thanks for sharing
great job nice to see the setup process thanks
Great to see the layout work and understand your process.
Very interesting project. Good to get all those tools out of the box and use them.
You make this look easy. Thanks for sharing the journey.
Nice drawing!!
Nicely done Keith.👍
That's a big job.. why the Master offered Leo some help.
This is going to turn out very nice. It's a pleasure to see every step.
Seeing how you figured this out was very useful. Thank you.
Thanks Keith
Enjoying the project. I've been following the Tally Ho project since it began.
Nice work!
Been following since the breakdown, mold making, casting, and now machining. What a great project.
A great video.
62 and still learning love it
Thank you Keith a great video again 👏👏👏👏👍🍺
Keith, you may have mentioned this shaft in a previous episode, but I wasn’t expecting it. This morning’s installment was a pleasant surprise. I’ll look forward to seeing you machine it. Thanks.
Another great and enjoyable episode of the Tally Ho restoration project. Thanks for sharing !
Happy Monday Keith!😊⚙️🛠⛵️🚂👍👍👍👍✌️
Nice video Thanks.
This looks like it will service the Tally Ho for a long long time.
Same taper at both ends makes sense. In 1910.. so the capstan was build it saves time on a lathe to fabricate that shaft. Only turn around the shaft and no need to change the taper attachment was necessary .
Nice video Keith
Great video Keith your explanations for a fellow, in America, who took mechanical drawing, in Jr. High for me, are excellent. Your attention to detail is great. Thirty minutes zipped by. Thanks for the video
One minute in and I cannot wait for these videos on the fabrication of this assembly.
Wonderful channel.
The taper mic is pretty sweet!
Go go Tally Ho. Love the content.
11:52 .. LOVE that "triangle" inside mi!!! .. NEVER eve heard of it before seeing Keith use it ! :)
16:20 Same thing for the magic Taper Mic!!! .. It's so cool Keith has all these specialty measuring devises!!
. . . and thank you again, Keith. There were many holding one's breath moments, for me that is, as I tried to understand what was happening, especially the issues surrounding the chattering. Great stuff
Drafting was middle school for me -- 11yo. Loved that class! I ended up working for one of the very first CAD vendors (CADAM) thanks to the interest.
4:51 "Inch and three eighths - six threads per inch - same on both ends."
Before you zoomed in for the pitch measurement I thought it was a Left-Hand thread, but a better view showed it isn't.
Keith this is big project and your are doing a great job. We had similar projects in my old shop but we could have divided the jobs between different people.
Cheers Warren
Enjoying your videos Keith - I'm from the UK and it was great to hear your you use the word "crud" - Wiktionary tells us - From Middle English crud, crudde (“coagulated milk; curd; any coagulated or thickened substance; dregs”) - Our language is rich with these simple but satisfying sounds.
A true member of the Two Thou' club!
Wow, over 5000 views in an hour, the Hollywood moguls must be green with envy! Great stuff thank you.👍
Tkzz for sharing,.,.,..peace
Nice
What material is the new shaft? What was your criteria for choosing the material for the new shaft?
video is excellent
Thanks Keith your movie makes my Easter Monday more pleasurable.
Thanks for not making an "April fools day video".
What a great informative video. Thank you for sharing it with us.
BTW: I am totally out of my league here but I am surprised there is not an industry standard that would give you a bearing replacement or a standard tapper calculated as most efficient or practical.
@21:32 I took Drafting in HS also (circa 1975) and then had quite a few other classes over the years studying for my (two) Mechanical Engineering Technology degrees. One quarter near the end was Architectural, in which the project was to draw an entire building from the rebar in the foundation to the top of the building (and everything in between) and THEN do a rendering of the finished building right down to the landscaping around it! I learned my Drafting the "old fashioned" way, starting with pencil on paper and then progressing to ink on Vellum! I finished my College before CAD was offered but I AM planning to get Fusion360 (got a trial of AutoCad years ago but never got very far into it). Can't seem to find where to get Fusion360 though... 🤔
The taper is likely to be a round number, either in inches per foot, inches per inch or degrees.
I would try to guess what the original drawing said in this situation (and I am fairly often in this situation, I play about with old vehicles around this vintage)
Candidates seem to be 1:9, 1.250" per foot or 6.5 degrees included angle.
Maybe it is worth machining a trial piece for the section that fits into the base casting. (machined between centres to that you can take it on and off the machine for the trial fits)
1.250”/ foot is 0.1041666667”/inch so a very close match.
Good morning
Just wondering what kind of material you are using for the new shaft?
Neat to read the ware amounts over one hundred years from your measurements.
Yay!
A flex hone might have worked well for those bearings. I've used those things to clean up the bores on 200 year old muskets. They're great.
Man o man, i would love to track down one of those taper micrometers! Looking around on the Internet has them fairly hard to come by.
thanks Mr Rucker...i'm sure Leo is watching...
Very nice as always. Yes drafting class... Long story, but knowing how to construct three elevations and matching isometric for simple parts - taught me by my teacher, Howard Dotter, rest his soul - ended up changing my life, much for the better. Odd how things work out. Anyway, it would be interesting to know the grade of steel you're using for the new shaft. Some kind of stainless no doubt.
Yup. Shout out to Charlie Magadenz, my H.S. Drafting teacher, who took an interest in my attention to detail with T-Square and Triangles. Charlie has to be in Heaven now. This is a skill that put me through college (weekend/summer parts drafting job) and has served me all of these years to produce measured drawings for my wood/metal shop projects . . . and to solve problems on paper before I ruined materials. Thanks, Again, Charlie !
Great video Keith.
Would it not be best to turn the long taper end first? That way when you come to turn the small taper end you could chuck on the parallel bearing journal and clock both of the journals on this long taper end and ensuring both ends of the shaft are concentric to one another... just how I would of done it.
To clean out the brass bushings, use a cylinder honer tool, like for automotive use.
Ain't nothiin' wrong with a Tee Square and a Pencil! I was at the tail end of hand drafting and appreciate it much more than CAD or now Revit.
Having done a number of drawings in my time my golden rule was it should always be understandable by the person producing the part. If it did that then it was a good drawing.
Keith, maybe you noted this already, but that's a LH Thread at the end of the shaft and is likely a BSW thread with a different pitch angle than you might be used to.
Hail the algorithm!
#TallyHo!
😊
Keith,
This seems like a good opportunity to turn between centers, it would probably make it easier when you go to turn your tapers.
Please excuse my ignorance if this comment is out in left field.
Seems to me, a better approach would be, is to salvage the shaft by cleaning up the journals, then make new bushings to size, that would insure the bushings are not worn. Heck with making a new complicated shaft!
That shaft didn't look heavily pitted. Probably a few welds needed to be added and then machined down then a real good sanding.
Out of curiosity, why would you make an entire new shaft? In the name of originality and cost, it seems like doing a flame spray to build up the shaft and machine it to the desired dimensions would be significantly faster and cheaper. Doing so you can easily achieve a surface finish conducive to a beryllium bronze bushing (bearing).
You do good work. Love the videos.
Hi Keith,
Very interesting to watch you figure out the correct sizes. A question do you have the original nuts? or are you making new ones. The reason I ask is being English, I am used to 'old' UK made items being threaded to 'English' standards (Whitworth), whilst anything coming from the USA is going to be threaded to American standards (UNC/F) so both systems have 1 3/8" x 6 but the thread angle for Whitworth is not ideally compatible to UNC
Been a while since I worked with American kit, but had problems with using British nuts and bolts with them same TPI but different thread angle. 55° - 60° one combination binds after about half a turn the other works but is sloppy, can't remember which.
This shaft would have originally been turned between centres. Even today, it’s the most accurate way of achieving the required concentricity. 🏴
My worry is that the recently cast "cap" coming from the foundry had to have a riser hole in the centre where the top of this shaft fits. The hole is well off centre. Not sure how Keith is going to get round that.The hole seemed quite big. Maybe have to drill the cap center out with a much larger hole and press a liner in.
Keith, aren't you assuming that the tapers are linear? I think I'd have laid a straight edge along them if only to satisfy my own curiosity. (What you do about a non-linear taper I have no idea.)
Aha! Taper mike! Never seen one before.
I'm curious, The tapers are timed by length, as they appear to pinch together on each other.
So they carry the vertical weight, But mostly, immense side load, the stress of the Boat dragging in the water toward the anchor, coupled with wind shear and the weight of the anchor/Chain. Are there thrust washers to adjust the timing of the tapers? how critical is the distances of the tapers to one another?
👌
love these videos, i've been taught that blue chips are generally a desirable phenomina as the chip is absorbing the heat and not the tool.... is this correct?
Nice setup Keith. Looking forward to seeing next one in the series. I am curious, given that you've center drilled both ends, and are going to have to flip the part a few times, why you aren't turning it between centers? Not second guessing, just hoping to learn something.
I thought he drilled both centers on the shaft so he could turn it between centers, Keith knows he’ll have to flip that part to get it done so I’d imagine that’s his plan. Stay tuned! Lol
Given the UK origin of the capstan, that thread is likely to be any of a number of British threads which may be 60˚ or 55˚ and may or may not have radiused crests and roots. It may not make much difference, since you will probably be making the nut to match and I seriously doubt that anyone will ever come up with an original replacement part that the thread will need to match.
Another fascinating look at a master at work. I was wondering, though, Tally Ho was built in the UK. Is their inch not slightly different from the US inch? I know it does not matter, since you measured and worked off your measurements. I was just wondering if one could "convert" between the two, what is there to learn, if anything?
It may not matter if the nut was made to fit the new thread?