I never had any luck with this. The paint ALWAYS seemed to go where I didn't want it to go. I started soldering a bit of stripped armature wire to the solder pads of the resistor. I run the wires to the wheels and use the paint there to complete the circuit. I always scratch the inside of the wheel first so the paint can get some "bite" to it. When the mood hits me, I will set up a dozen wheelsets. That way I can install one whenever a new car is added to the roster. I typically put one resistor axle on each car and always on the brake wheel end. The exceptions are cabooses and long cars like auto racks and 89' Hi-Cubes. They get one resistor axle per truck. That is an impressive CTC system!
Thanks for checking it out! If I have any issues I may just give that a try. Good call on the long cars - adding resistors to both trucks. I need to order a box of wheelsets and do that as well. Can paint and weather them as well. Thanks again!
Steve great video I tried this long time ago did not work well for me now I see this I might revisit this again I have many cars without resistors would like to get them all done thanks for sharing
@@Cowboy_Steve Steve, You but one Resistor on a truck correct just pick one of the wheels? and then on the other truck on the car do the same correct? If so should the resistor be on the same side as the other truck?
@@thomasgrassi8817 Just depends Thomas. A normal length car really only needs it on one truck. If you have some of those super long autoracks or similar I can see adding one to the other truck. Doesn't matter what side of the truck you put the resistor as long as you mount the resistor next to the insulator bushing. Clear as mud? 😅
That was a great how to. If you did that on 25 cars about how many amps would the detector mounted cars draw? Anyone that knows can answer the question. I subscribed, number 213.
Welcome Steve to the RUclips world. Suggestion, links to the resistors and conductive paint would be helpful to many who want to duplicate exactly what you did. I know a simple bla ba bla google search…
Howdy! Thank you for the excellent suggestion! I had intended to do that, but as per the normal for me I got distracted and never got back to it lol. I will be updating the description with links in the near future. Thanks for tuning in! 🤠
@@Cowboy_Steve Best luck I have is using wheelsets with metal axles and soldering them which takes some skill but once mastered they don't fail even when painting them afterwards.
Howdy and thanks for commenting. True, I did not and that was by design. This is my first 'how-to' video and wanted to keep it short and simple. It wasn't intended to give a full overview of block detection, just a way to make rolling stock block detection friendly. I guess I wrongly assumed if anyone watched the video they would be familiar with the nuts and bolts of block detection. Thanks again for the feedback - I do appreciate it 🤠
@kiwibjg well, if you wouldn't mind pointing me in the right direction, I'd appreciate it. I have a split system with limited capabilities, so my detection system would be strictly set up for D.C.
A book from Peter J Thorne, 34 New Electronic Projects for Model Railroaders shows him using a resistor and building a block detector. It is cheaper today to just buy the detector instead of build one.
@@sort187 Bruce Chubb published his series on the Computer Model Railroad Interface (C/MRI) back in the 1980’s and he has been updating since then as well as others around the world. His original block occupancy detector worked on DC control systems. Then he updated the design for DCC. They both give a nice clean transistor output to run LED’s, TTL logic, relays and whatever. He does have a website where you can buy the circuit boards or made up units and there are other companies doing them as well now too. The circuits are available if you do a search as well as other C/MRI items to help with control. I use all these on my layout and they are all really good. Hope that helps. Cheers
Great video Steve - very nicely done! Best, John
Thanks John! Appreciate the feedback 🤠
LOL'd at "as you can see I spared, no expense on my visual aids"
Thanks for watching! I've been told I have a unique sense of humor... lol 🤠
Beautiful, wonderfully high tech illustrations..😊. Jokes aside, this is a fantastic how-to video. Thank you so much. New sub, notifications on.
Thanks Scott! This was my first 'how to' type video so I appreciate the feedback. 🤠
great information! thanks for sharing this :)
You are most welcome - and thanks for checking it out! 🤠
I never had any luck with this. The paint ALWAYS seemed to go where I didn't want it to go. I started soldering a bit of stripped armature wire to the solder pads of the resistor. I run the wires to the wheels and use the paint there to complete the circuit. I always scratch the inside of the wheel first so the paint can get some "bite" to it. When the mood hits me, I will set up a dozen wheelsets. That way I can install one whenever a new car is added to the roster. I typically put one resistor axle on each car and always on the brake wheel end. The exceptions are cabooses and long cars like auto racks and 89' Hi-Cubes. They get one resistor axle per truck.
That is an impressive CTC system!
Thanks for checking it out! If I have any issues I may just give that a try. Good call on the long cars - adding resistors to both trucks. I need to order a box of wheelsets and do that as well. Can paint and weather them as well. Thanks again!
Excellent demonstration. I now know how these are a benefit to signal detection. Thank you.
Howdy! Glad you could stop by! Thanks for the comment 🤠
Steve great video I tried this long time ago did not work well for me now I see this I might revisit this again I have many cars without resistors would like to get them all done thanks for sharing
Really appreciate you checking out the video. Yeah you should play around with it a bit and see how it goes 🤠
@@Cowboy_Steve Steve, You but one Resistor on a truck correct just pick one of the wheels? and then on the other truck on the car do the same correct? If so should the resistor be on the same side as the other truck?
@@thomasgrassi8817 Just depends Thomas. A normal length car really only needs it on one truck. If you have some of those super long autoracks or similar I can see adding one to the other truck. Doesn't matter what side of the truck you put the resistor as long as you mount the resistor next to the insulator bushing. Clear as mud? 😅
👍👍👍👍Excellent
Very cool Steve. Great tutorial
Thanks Dave!
Thanks
Thanks for watching!
Just subscribed Steve!
Howdy! Thanks so much for checking out the video and the sub! 🤠
Regards from Austria 🙂
Howdy Austria! Thank you so much for stopping by!!! 🤠
The photo of the Lionel transformer was somewhat informative. Lionel trains run on AC current not DC.
Thanks Steve for the video. I have all the stuff and maybe this video will get me going. Lol.
Howdy Mike! I hear ya... I have bunches of projects like this stacking up. Good thing winter is coming 😁 Thanks for watching 🤠
Now... Let's see you do this with "N" Guage.
Very good information Cowboy Steve.
Thank you good sir! 🤠
Some old DCC systems put AC on the rails and the change over happens in the decoder
Hi Steve 👋 Man...GREAT tutorial ...well done !! 👍 Sub...#194 😁
That was a great how to. If you did that on 25 cars about how many amps would the detector mounted cars draw? Anyone that knows can answer the question. I subscribed, number 213.
Yeah I kinda would like to know that myself. I'm not smart enough to figure it out 😁Thanks for the comment 🤠
Great tutorial Steve! Are you taking orders for those who don't have the time to dedicate to installing resistors to wheels etc? - Jason
Thanks for watching Jason! And sure thing - if you need some done I'll be happy to help out. I'll send you a note on FB
Welcome Steve to the RUclips world. Suggestion, links to the resistors and conductive paint would be helpful to many who want to duplicate exactly what you did. I know a simple bla ba bla google search…
Howdy! Thank you for the excellent suggestion! I had intended to do that, but as per the normal for me I got distracted and never got back to it lol. I will be updating the description with links in the near future. Thanks for tuning in! 🤠
I find the conductive glue doesn't work very well over the long run and if you try to whether the wheel sets you're really in trouble
Thank you for the heads up - I will be sure to watch for that. Is there something else you can recommend I use? Thanks for tuning in 🤠
@@Cowboy_Steve Best luck I have is using wheelsets with metal axles and soldering them which takes some skill but once mastered they don't fail even when painting them afterwards.
@@frankneher9192 Thanks for the info... I think I'll give that a look this winter. Makes sense 🤠
Very good !! Excellent photography and voice over. But, kill the music. It's very distracting and adds nothing.
Noted! TBH, I just wanted to play with the 'ducking' effect on my editing software lol. Thanks for the feedback 🤠
You never mentioned the software and hardware used for the block detection
Howdy and thanks for commenting. True, I did not and that was by design. This is my first 'how-to' video and wanted to keep it short and simple. It wasn't intended to give a full overview of block detection, just a way to make rolling stock block detection friendly. I guess I wrongly assumed if anyone watched the video they would be familiar with the nuts and bolts of block detection. Thanks again for the feedback - I do appreciate it 🤠
there are3 types of model trains;... #3 being center power3d Maerklin AC and digital ...!
Thanks for the heads up! I'll have to educate myself on it. 🤠
So, bottom line is that this application is for DCC only?
No. Same principle for DC and DCC. There are occupancy detectors available for both systems.
Thanks for answering because I honestly didn't know... lol!
@kiwibjg well, if you wouldn't mind pointing me in the right direction, I'd appreciate it. I have a split system with limited capabilities, so my detection system would be strictly set up for D.C.
A book from Peter J Thorne, 34 New Electronic Projects for Model Railroaders shows him using a resistor and building a block detector. It is cheaper today to just buy the detector instead of build one.
@@sort187 Bruce Chubb published his series on the Computer Model Railroad Interface (C/MRI) back in the 1980’s and he has been updating since then as well as others around the world. His original block occupancy detector worked on DC control systems. Then he updated the design for DCC. They both give a nice clean transistor output to run LED’s, TTL logic, relays and whatever. He does have a website where you can buy the circuit boards or made up units and there are other companies doing them as well now too. The circuits are available if you do a search as well as other C/MRI items to help with control. I use all these on my layout and they are all really good.
Hope that helps. Cheers
❤❤
I know it was probably pretty boring for you but thanks for watching!! 🤠