Anthony knows what's up! I figured this out about 25 years ago and always use it with a circular saw. Also thumbs up for using a staple gun with the glue - coated staples are so much stronger than brad nails - good stuff, dude - these are the type of videos that are VERY useful to people!
I've watched a few videos re making a guide, but this one is the best. Clear and concise, plus the first person to actually wear protective gear. Excellent. Thank you.
These things are great. I made one and use it all the time. Big time saver since you're placing the edge of the guide directly on your mark (instead of having to offset a standard straight edge). Not only is it more precise than a standard straight edge, it lets you make fine adjustments by making really fine cuts (like shaving half a blade width). Also, it makes it a snap to intentionally cut a straight line at a slight angle, like trimming an 1/8th off one corner of a door that's bumping the jamb, but still end up with a perfectly straight line. Also great if you don't always work in a shop, but are mobile.
An incredibly useful thing to have. In my case I have to go to the Menz Shed I belong to to use a table saw, so a jig like this will save me a of trips into town. And you make excellent points about cutting fine lines like trimming a door.
My dad was using these back in the 1950's but with a piece of 1/4 inch paneling (smooth / finished side up). The smooth surface made the saw glide more easily. He saved weight by not making the guide fence as wide as the one illustrated here.
New subscriber here too! There are other videos such as this one, but yours is exceptional because you do an excellent job of explaining how to measure the board before you begin cutting, and what length you should use, and why. I can't wait to see more of your videos. I agree with another poster, you are a natural instructor, and it is apparent you know what you are talking about.
Another tip to help with this type of jig or guide, is to use a marker and write the saw that it was made for. Many times we make items for a specific tool, which we have different brands or models, and then get them confused.
Excellent video. I can’t oversize how important is leaving space for clamping. Overhead, few inches front/back is also important so the saw is on the guide when you enter and exit the cut. Lastly, it makes sense to point out where your blade will pass in relation to penc line
Yep! Totally just subscribed, liked, AND hit that notifications bell! Dude, you saved my life. I was ripping 8 foot sections of MDF yesterday, and was only using a single piece of 1x10 as a straight edge and had to continually measure from my cut line to my straight edge and factor in the width of my blade...long story short, I ended up with some crazy shapes and nothing was square 🤬. Ended up scrapping everything and will be buying new mdf and using this life saving jig!!!
I just made one with 1/4" lauan plywood and I would recommend using 1/2" because the 1/4" lauan plywood chips up so easily. Even if you bump it lightly off of something.
K LE 23 hours ago I have a DIY track saw made out of plywood. Could I attach this to the bottom of the plywood to make it anti-slip? Where do I buy this anti-slip foam tape?
How do you make sure you get a perfectly straight cut for the fence? Should I have lowes rip me 2 pieces one for the base and the other for the actual fence?
Good video and useful but I done exactly what you said and I didn’t have much left on the base to clamp. I made it 8 1/4 and the rail 4 1/4 so I can’t see why there isn’t any room. Did you make the base wider? Thanks
Graeme Cryer I said I set the fence 4 1/4 back from the edge of the sled so that I could cut a zero clearance with the saw blade, make your fence rail smaller and you will have ample room in the back for clamps. If you want, you can make the base wider as well.
You can actually cut off the other side of the straight edge with the opposite side of your circular saw and I have two edges to use and still be able to clamp it 👌
Ciao Tony, great video. I'm a total newb at this so please forgive my "basic" question. I understand the whole concept of this, but how do I get the actual top part of the rail to be a straight cut (before you even glue it onto the base)? I mean, I don't have a guide rail yet, so I'm guessing you just have to measure it carefully and just cut it manually and hope that it comes out straight? Hope the question makes sense.
That's my current problem also. Usually to get a straight cut or confirm that you have a straight cut all the way up the board, you need the tools and machines to make the straight cut in the first place! So once you have those machines or devices, then you can make other jigs and boards with straight cuts, to then use them as cutting aids for future cuts.
@@pershop4950 use the "mill cut or factory” edge from the sheet of plywood that you are using to make the fence out of, just place the mill cut on the sled so your circular saw will run against it. This way you can be sure that the saw guide is true after you make the zero cut on the sled.
There are many components to building a table saw. One resource I discovered which succeeds in merging these is the Wilfs wood blueprint (check it out on google) definately the most useful resource i've heard of. Check out all the incredible information .
here's a few suggestions for building a table saw yourself Find a suitable set of plans online Find a mate who wants to build one too so you have someone to help you (I learned these and why they work on Wilfs wood blueprint site )
Good video. Thinking of making one of these. I am NOT a woodworker so forgive the question. I still don't understand why he left excess on the one side that is small (opposite the side the blade will be on). Is there a purpose or just left for no reason? thanks
Good idea. However. as these saws can jump violently, to stay safe, I'd never put my hand on the job right next to the blade. There's a convenient knob on top, out of the way, to provide extra stability.
josh smith any good quality rated “dust respirator” for woodworking and a chemical respirator for staining or spraying finishes. I really don’t recommend one brand over another, just concentrate on the highest micron filtration rating
This is the simplest guide I've come across, awesome. Thanks
Anthony knows what's up! I figured this out about 25 years ago and always use it with a circular saw. Also thumbs up for using a staple gun with the glue - coated staples are so much stronger than brad nails - good stuff, dude - these are the type of videos that are VERY useful to people!
I've watched a few videos re making a guide, but this one is the best. Clear and concise, plus the first person to actually wear protective gear. Excellent. Thank you.
Am truly enjoying your channel. Great work making my life simpler and easier!
You just saved me hundreds of dollars, thank you.
New subscriber, retired, and new to woodworking, building my first wooden top vanity thank you so much for the knowledge it helps me soooo much
Lonnie Martinez glad to hear it, thanks for watching!
Thanks. Very easy to understand. Exactly what I needed.
These things are great. I made one and use it all the time. Big time saver since you're placing the edge of the guide directly on your mark (instead of having to offset a standard straight edge). Not only is it more precise than a standard straight edge, it lets you make fine adjustments by making really fine cuts (like shaving half a blade width). Also, it makes it a snap to intentionally cut a straight line at a slight angle, like trimming an 1/8th off one corner of a door that's bumping the jamb, but still end up with a perfectly straight line. Also great if you don't always work in a shop, but are mobile.
An incredibly useful thing to have. In my case I have to go to the Menz Shed I belong to to use a table saw, so a jig like this will save me a of trips into town. And you make excellent points about cutting fine lines like trimming a door.
My dad was using these back in the 1950's but with a piece of 1/4 inch paneling (smooth / finished side up). The smooth surface made the saw glide more easily. He saved weight by not making the guide fence as wide as the one illustrated here.
New subscriber here too! There are other videos such as this one, but yours is exceptional because you do an excellent job of explaining how to measure the board before you begin cutting, and what length you should use, and why. I can't wait to see more of your videos. I agree with another poster, you are a natural instructor, and it is apparent you know what you are talking about.
Gregg Hernandez thank you and welcome aboard. Glad you liked it
This is most simple and most effective slide as compared to other videos...
Another tip to help with this type of jig or guide, is to use a marker and write the saw that it was made for. Many times we make items for a specific tool, which we have different brands or models, and then get them confused.
Just setting up my workshop in the last few weeks and this video is great! Thanks for all the tips - you're a great instructor!
Nick Rossi thanks and glad you liked it
Great video, perhaps run the saw down the other side of the jig on the opposite side of the blade so your jig will work both ways
Anthony Iaconelli you can use the other side for your router instead. More productive
I like the helpful hints for clamping, ease of use and simplicity of the build. Thanks to you.
Excellent video. I can’t oversize how important is leaving space for clamping. Overhead, few inches front/back is also important so the saw is on the guide when you enter and exit the cut. Lastly, it makes sense to point out where your blade will pass in relation to penc line
Thanks for sharing your knowledge. Video help me a lot to make my own guide.
Yep! Totally just subscribed, liked, AND hit that notifications bell! Dude, you saved my life. I was ripping 8 foot sections of MDF yesterday, and was only using a single piece of 1x10 as a straight edge and had to continually measure from my cut line to my straight edge and factor in the width of my blade...long story short, I ended up with some crazy shapes and nothing was square 🤬. Ended up scrapping everything and will be buying new mdf and using this life saving jig!!!
spasticsirch glad it was helpful, good luck on your project!
Thank you kins sir. This really helps and will be just as accurate as a Festool Track saw without taking out a loan.
Hey amazing project just what I was looking for I only have a circular saw but no track saw now I do saved me a ton of money
Great video, needed one of these but never took the time....great tips, you always explain it so well!
Nice and easy to understand video, thanks for taking the time to really walk through the steps.
Super helpful and simple! No more guess work on where to line up the circular saw on the guideline of the wood to be cut...
Thanks so much..great tip regarding the excess space for the clamp..
Wow bro, thanks! I love the simplicity and the awesomeness of this jig.
Thanks again!
Thank u ,i was going to buy a table saw to cut 8x4 in half lengthwats ,this saces me a ton of money
Great clip and tips as well. Short and sharp but well explained. Good one bro!
that's a great little guide there Anthony, good video, you need a TV Channel, making one tomorrow too. just saved me buying a track.
So simple So easy, and very good results
Great video, thank you. I know you said the fence is 8” wide but I can’t make out the width of the fence piece. Looks maybe 4” wide?
This was a long time ago but the fence was somewhere around 3 & 1/4- 3 & 1/2 inches wide.
very good. I need one.
So simple, thanks man. I was going to buy table saw for some small projects but this will be a way better and cheaper solution.
This helped me so much! Thank you!
Great! Glad to hear that
This is a great "CIWRULAR SWA GWAUD" tutorial
That actually makes more sense now that I have been able to see it done.
Awesome project
I just made one with 1/4" lauan plywood and I would recommend using 1/2" because the 1/4" lauan plywood chips up so easily. Even if you bump it lightly off of something.
K LE
23 hours ago
I have a DIY track saw made out of plywood. Could I attach this to the bottom of the plywood to make it anti-slip? Where do I buy this anti-slip foam tape?
How do you make sure you get a perfectly straight cut for the fence? Should I have lowes rip me 2 pieces one for the base and the other for the actual fence?
I used a fine V notched spreader & put some silicone on the underside as an anti-slip surface ... works great !! 😎👍☘🍺
Great tip!
Very cool.
Very nicely explained. I learned something new.
Great job
Great idea thanks for sharing
Youve just saved me an ass-load of trouble,, many thanks
Simple and great.Thanks for the idea.
Nice. I should have done this a long time ago.
Great tip thanks👍
Another useful tip. Great video as always.
Dave Bailey thank you
So simple. Thanks
Great info cheers! Simple but effective - nice.
Them Italian guys are way ahead........nice job Tony......thanks! Dude, you are saving me aggravation and wasted time!
Very good video!!!
Great video, thanks man
really good idea. thank you.
Good video and useful but I done exactly what you said and I didn’t have much left on the base to clamp. I made it 8 1/4 and the rail 4 1/4 so I can’t see why there isn’t any room. Did you make the base wider? Thanks
Graeme Cryer I said I set the fence 4 1/4 back from the edge of the sled so that I could cut a zero clearance with the saw blade, make your fence rail smaller and you will have ample room in the back for clamps. If you want, you can make the base wider as well.
He wants the dimensions on the bottom larger piece? You keep calling it 8 1/4" wide. But its got to be over 12".
excellent mr excellent keep posting video very interesting have a good day
I like the simple way to make the A Circular Saw Guide.
Good idea bro
Thank you Anthony
I will make one but with a stopper across under the jig to save time when making a square cut.
What is the 1/4" wood made of?
1/4” birch plywood.
Thanks Tony, Great video.I'll be making one or two this week..
outstanding, thank you very much
You can actually cut off the other side of the straight edge with the opposite side of your circular saw and I have two edges to use and still be able to clamp it 👌
Great video. Thanks
I am making one today. I thought about making one side for each direction, so the thin side is the opposite direction.
Ciao Tony, great video. I'm a total newb at this so please forgive my "basic" question. I understand the whole concept of this, but how do I get the actual top part of the rail to be a straight cut (before you even glue it onto the base)? I mean, I don't have a guide rail yet, so I'm guessing you just have to measure it carefully and just cut it manually and hope that it comes out straight? Hope the question makes sense.
Felix Reali cut a strip using a table saw
That's my current problem also. Usually to get a straight cut or confirm that you have a straight cut all the way up the board, you need the tools and machines to make the straight cut in the first place! So once you have those machines or devices, then you can make other jigs and boards with straight cuts, to then use them as cutting aids for future cuts.
@@pershop4950 use the "mill cut or factory” edge from the sheet of plywood that you are using to make the fence out of, just place the mill cut on the sled so your circular saw will run against it. This way you can be sure that the saw guide is true after you make the zero cut on the sled.
I'm making one next weekend. brillant thanks
Enjoyed that .... thanks
New subscriber here and really enjoying your videos, your a natural instructor. Keep'em coming! Thanks
G.M C.D welcome aboard, glad to have you and thanks.
There are many components to building a table saw. One resource I discovered which succeeds in merging these is the Wilfs wood blueprint (check it out on google) definately the most useful resource i've heard of. Check out all the incredible information .
here's a few suggestions for building a table saw yourself
Find a suitable set of plans online
Find a mate who wants to build one too so you have someone to help you
(I learned these and why they work on Wilfs wood blueprint site )
Good video.
Thinking of making one of these. I am NOT a woodworker so forgive the question. I still don't understand why he left excess on the one side that is small (opposite the side the blade will be on). Is there a purpose or just left for no reason? thanks
This give you a place to clamp your guide to the work piece. If you didn't have that extra space the motor of your saw would hit your clamps.
I actually do want to make an 8 ft track saw. Sure It's the same logic here, but u have a video of how u handled it?
very helpful...thank you very much...
Anthony what brand of router table its that one you have ,it looks nice
NES specialist it's a kreg.
How to make a rip cut for hardwood floor plant. As they very thin ( 3") i think.
Wendy Wu something that thin requires a table saw
Thanks
EXCELLENT MY FRIEND, LOST COST, AND BEAUTIFULL
get some non slip strips and stick them on the bottom to keep it in place
thanks, a lot.
A taller fence could prevent tilting while you cut.
Marcelo Cosi a taller fence would get in the way of the motor/body of the saw. Not an option.
Marcelo Cosi that tilting only happens when there’s no support, like when you cut the zero edge. Doesn’t happen on a workpiece
Don’t waste that unused clamping strip at the back….size it for your Router or Jigsaw.👍
Good idea. However. as these saws can jump violently, to stay safe, I'd never put my hand on the job right next to the blade. There's a convenient knob on top, out of the way, to provide extra stability.
Hi can i know name if you’re table saw please
great thank you
How many RPM
You had me a little nervous at the 2:35 mark; I thought that buzzing sound was the table saw running while you were setting the rip fence.
Me too. Must've been the air compressor.
Thanks for your vid. What kind of respirator do you recommend?
josh smith any good quality rated “dust respirator” for woodworking and a chemical respirator for staining or spraying finishes. I really don’t recommend one brand over another, just concentrate on the highest micron filtration rating
This is great
thank you so much. nice video
Excellently produced video. Very clearly explained. Thanks. Love your accent. Is it Brooklyn? Sounds cool to an Englishman. :)
Berny M thanks. Originally from Brooklyn and lived there for 30 years but moved many years ago
how is that possible? you look like youre in your 20’s
nice video thank you
Neat job 👍🏻
Guys just screw two speed squares at each end of your straight edge
JUST CUT STRAIGHT .
thank you 🖤🖤
Thank you!
Nice video, just be carful with your left hand as you guide the saw. I thought it was about to slip under.
I am sorry....but the sled is 1/4 inch what ?????? Thank you . great video and explanation.
Just make absolutely sure your 3/4” piece is dead true/straight
Or your cut won’t be good
Very easy My Friend.✌️🤙👍