...and completely useless with rusted solid cable after 3 years. Dad had to admonish us to never apply the parking brake because it wouldn't release and would drag until you wore down the pads
I don't mind the computerized aspect of it. I just dislike it because you can't use it to break traction on the rear wheels if you want to play a little bit.
Around here park brakes are required to pass bi-annual inspection. So few people use them that the cables seize up (good old salt) and they get replaced repeatedly. I use mine all the time and the cables last forever.
One thing about Toyota, I bought a new Tacoma about a year ago and it probably had the same exact parts that are in the 1999 Camry for the rear brakes haha. It's a mechanical drum parking brake in the rear
Saved me $500. I removed the wheel and confirmed the parking brake was not working on the left side. There was a grinding noise. The plug to the motor looked good so I changed the motor by taking off the brake caliper. It went clean and smooth. I used an aftermarket $70 motor instead of the $220 OEM. Hopefully it’ll hold out. I used SylGlide on the O ring as the aftermarket Chinese motor did not come with any lubricant. After I removed the O-ring, it was clear that it had been compromised, and this was likely the cause of the failure as there was a lot of moisture when I took the motor off. Thanks for making this a one hour job instead of a four hour job. I was able to return the harness so the whole job cost me only $70.
I'm guessing your reading glasses must be years old but actually brand new? Join the club & look more distinguished/knowledgeable! No one will hold it against you. You're still the best on RUclips!
just bought a ford fusion with this exact problem, thanks for the diagnosis your videos fully explained the problem and the solution that i feel confident in fixing the issue myself
Had green crusty on my clutch safety switch in my 30 year old truck. Felt like Mr. O fixing stuff. Thanks for calm instruction, got out my wiring diagram and did it, cause Mr. O said I could! 👍👍
I'm in the same kinda rust belt in Northern Wisconsin. The rule is, use your e-brake at least once in awhile, so when you do need it, it's not frozen with rust. My 97' Blazer still has a working e-brake.
Wisconsin doesn't use the salt that New York does. I've had cables that were used daily, bind. I'm a retired mechanic turned long haul trucker. I run New York to Seattle on a regular basis. You guys don't use anywhere near the salt that New York does.
Excellent video. It gave me a good laugh too. You know you have become a hardened mechanic numb to the world when at time 10:40 you can say that $50 for an 18 inch 2 wire harness isn’t a bad price.
Hi Eric. Have been following for ages and love the videos. Right up my street this one. I worked on the design of this Continental iEPB caliper, and it does cut-off the power when a current threshold has been reached. 1 amp per KN really roughly. This system will cutoff at around 17 amps, therefore 17KN. Hi from the UK.
Hello @Davidcogin601 and Eric, Thanks for the great info! I am using these calipers on a custom application and was wondering if I should use a 15 or 20 amp relay to activate the cut-off power when applied since I will not be using the engine harness to operate these calipers? Still trying to figure out the power issue. Thanks again, cheers!
I've done this on my parents 2016 edge also. For future reference, open up that harness in a pinch. It's very common for the wires to just break in the middle of that harness, must be a design fault. In the end I did just replace the harness, because it was cheap. However of course you did good because there was corrosion on the motor itself. Great video as always
I'm glad you showed this diagnosis and repair. I have wondered how the system worked. Now I'm not so intimidated by it, just don't like not having mechanical control of the parking in case of a power loss. I'm assuming there are redundancies in that case. Great work Eric! I watch a couple of yours and Ray's videos on a sunny day and next thing I know, I'm under the hood tinkering with my 2001 Durango.
I used to have park brake cables get moisture in them and then freeze up in the Winter immobilizing the car. Not really sure which has the advantage. Both have potential issues! Great job here. I'll remember this as my wife has the same car! Thanks man!
Anything has the potential to have a problem. But I'd rather be replacing a $30 cable than a $250 harness and motor - and I can always free up the cable with a little kroil if I can't afford the $30 just now. Not to mention the ease of diag on the cable. I fail to see any advantage to the electric brake that makes up for the increased price.
@@aussiebloke609 I believe the main perceived advanatge (for the manufacturer) is a small button to actuate the electric parking brake takes up less "real estate" in the interior than a mechanical lever/cable mechanism. Freeing up that space makes room for seat heater buttons, USB ports, wireless charger pads, larger cupholders, etc.
@@aussiebloke609 I believe the brakes are electric to allow the car to apply the brakes automatically for situations such as collision avoidance and adaptive cruise control.
WHY? Why do these manufacturers think we need this when a cable type system has been working forever? Not everything needs to be electronic! Great job on the repair!
Mr. O... You must be reading my mind! I have one these Ford's and I was thinking about the electric parking brakes just yesterday when I bought gas. I was worrying about their inevitable failure and what is involved to repair. Thank you!
Don't comment here that much, since I don't live in the salt belt, however, you really nailed it with the test light circuit function test to understand it. Always enjoy watching - Thanks for the educational & fun process!
Nice work. Electric parking brake by Continental. Klueber is a German manufacturer of grease. I think in your region - packing everything with Dielectric grease in the connectors - might not be a bad idea. You're an excellent technician. The world needs more like you.
This was a much easier job than it would have been on my old land-rover discovery 3. It had a single park brake motor with cables running to the back wheel. If the cables stretched or the wear on one side was more than the other, that motor will go wild and could strip the little plastic gears. Then it was a heck of a job (and Very expensive replacement part) to fix. Got rid of it but still kept my L-R Defender with the TD5 engine. Much simpler and easier to work on. Greetings from sunny South Africa! I'm extremely greatfull we don't have the problem with rust here like you guys do. It's much easier to keep older cars running and on the road here. My Td5 is almost 20 years old and no rust.
You are correct. It measures current during operation and translates that in to clamping force I think. Pretty much all epb's work the same, well those I've worked on at least. And it's 99% the left one on AT's that faults. People don't use it and crap from on-coming traffic get past the o-ring. Oh right, left ones here in Sweden, probably the other way around in countries where they drive on the wr..left side.
Over in the UK I am seeing a few of EPB faults on Fords normally broken wire in the harness at the wheels, where the wire tends to pivot at suspension movement. Great videos as always
Surprised you didn't apply some dielectric grease like the old Dow-Corning DC-4 to the connectors when you re-assembled them. That is the first thing I do before re-connecting any plug/jack I open up. Just prevents future problems for me. Of course I keep my vehicles for a long time, Pick-up is 19 years old and like any GM product the rust causing issues caused by the Michigan salt like you have.
I totally agree. You can use any dielectric grease just put a good gob in the connector before you mate it. It will keep the water and air out which causes the corrosion. You should do it on every connector you unplug before reconnecting it again. You will have fewer returns as well. Yes I am from the PRNY salt belt too!🤣
I knew we would arrive to this point where the electric parking brake was another item added to the list of items that will fails prematurely . Electric parking brakes... a solution to a problem that never existed!!!
I would be happier with a standard parking brake handle and cable to actuate the parking brakes. It's cheaper and more reliable. It's a smart idea to replace the motor with the harness because you don't need call backs. If I was doing it on my own car I would replace the harness and clean the contacts and test the motor and keep it if it was still working.
@@donmunro144 That's a lack of maintenance. Living in a salt zone you have to take care of the underside. There's plenty of spray on solutions: Krown, Fluid Film, Surface Shield, etc.
Good video. Eric O didn't show off any "moves" though - which are always exciting! You know, like the no handy reach-around, the no-look confusion maker, sewing buttons on his underwear, tricks grandma told him, the "Hey Mrs. O, smell my finger" move, etc....stuff like that. Hopefully we'll see some of those again in a video soon.
Good video. Some sleuthing involved. That green crusty will get you every time !!! Replacing the cable was an excellent choice. All is fine now. On to the next one. 😃
There are plenty of good mechanics here, it’s sorting them out that’s the problem ! I’m curious about these electrically operated “parking brakes” I’ve only ever had mechanical handbrakes and I know how they work.
There's definitely some very talented techs here in the UK but alot of garages including main dealers will play parts darts or load the cannon. I've always watched SMA videos and been impressed with how the fault is diagnosed. I'm a tech myself and have learnt alot from this channel. some people I work along side don't even know how to apply a test light into a diagnostic procedure.
Used to be when I was a tech at gm, gm used a group number system to list their parts, once you learned how the numbering system worked, it made finding parts easy. Say you needed a part for Chevy, and it wasn't in stock. You could go to the group numbers and find the same part, but for a different Carline, say Pontiac, Oldsmobile, Buick, ect. The same part that fit a Oldsmobile, would also fit a Cadillac, but would have a big price increase, even though it was the same part
Earn as you learn , that was my motto for 45 plus years of wrenching. Engineers and manufacturers have a way of doing that , just as you think you know something they change the game. I’ve always thought if the parts are readily available, it’s a problem they have with that part. Speaking of Ford parts in strange places to look up , once I was doing a water pump on a Tempo , the “ O” ring on the pipe at back of motor was not only eluding me , the dealer couldn’t find it. Turned out Ford called the “O” ring a piston , no wonder we couldn’t find it
Used to be that the old drum & shoe , cable brakes would be a drag. Now they're HAL fighting Dave Bowman's nightmare. " I'm sorry Dave, I'm afraid I can't do that.
I seen a wire for the rear abs corrode in under 5k miles, less than a year old. Idk why or how but a small pin hole was all I saw. Thankfully ford has a pig tail kit, so i didn't have to replace the whole harness ( corroded at the big rear harness, not that smaller one)
#1). E. O. Do ya know of a Mechanic / Technician in San Jose California that's as GOOD as You Are???? #2). I am stoked that you actually put those Rubber Plugs back on the Caliper Slide Pins 👍🏼. #3). That Job at FORD is Like $800.00 Thankfully you do the right thing and treat folks like you would want to be treated. Great Job, and it IS FIXED!!!! Alway's enjoy watching your approach to a final Repair and Fix.
Mr. O. Thanks for the run thru with the fancy electronic gear. Been mechanicing for 56yrs, so I am old school and all I can say is WOW! . My 98 Yukon w/ 325,000miles and rust had a rough running issue one day. I tried to isolate the problem by disconnecting electrical components under the hood. The easiest one was the MAF, so I did it first. The engine sped up. When I plugged it back in problem was fixt. Speaking w/ a local repair shop owner about it, he told me to replace every sensor under the hood. They get old and go bad, he said. -OR- buy a bottle of Stabilant 22A to deoxidize the contacts. 3/4 oz bottle cost $45. I was wondering why Fix Or Repair Daily didn't use ECG in that Metri-Pack? Designed obsolesce? 109,598 on the odo and a wire is green in a Metri-Pack? After I cleaned my MAF connection w/ Stabilant I put Electrical Connection Grease in my Weather Pack it to keep it from oxidizing any more. SoFar So Good. ben/ michigan
Nice work again Mr O. I keep a list of terrible "features" that I give to people who are looking to buy a car. It quickly eliminates about 3/4 of the cars LOL. Stay gold.
I can't stand these electric parking brakes! The 10 yo cable system in my F350 still works just fine even in the rust belt. Thx for the video. Eric 👍 keep em coming!
I hear you, but the epb also eliminates the entire drum-in-a-disk and all of the associated actuator parts. I've never like working on rear brakes. In this case, better connectors would have probably prevented all the problems.
And even though theyve eliminated the rusty cables, the electric parking brake is STILL susceptible to the same water rust crud and green crusties as the old cable system, one would thing the plugs would at least use GM's weather pack connectors that seal out the environment - same problems in electrical parts instead of mechanical parts, gee what an improvement. Makes me wonder what one does if the motor locks onto to the rotor then the motor itself dies with no way to release it, what then-?? Great work GM.
I remember the time...a man...your average man ...armed with a toolbox full of Craftsman ratchets...sockets...wrenches and screwdrivers...could keep his car/truck running forever
Eric O’…Great job for sure! What do you think of these Extended Warranty Services? Do you work with these companies if your customer has this coverage??
These were once called "emergency" brakes; brakes that worked regardless of anything else failing. Even put them on the driveshafts sometimes. Now they are electric and connected to a computer, keeping the economy humming along with repair bills. Simple, back in the day the old emergency brakes were just as unreliable, but we didn't care, as nobody used them anyway, and there were no state vehicle inspections.
The electric parking brake seems like it was engineered to make you have to pay the dealership to work on it, because according to the Nissan service manual I totally don’t have, it’s a whole different process. I mean I was lazy to start with and I wasn’t doing anything beyond minimal effort but some people have to work on their cars
Hi Eric, Not cheap I could replace the whole cable system for that amount, but the labor would be more$$. I'll stick with cables for now or as long as I can. Good piece Eric, Thanks!
Assuming they’re available. Parking brake cables that are worth a crap are getting hard to find on a lot of cars. Dorman or China crap will fail within 6 months, not even worth installing
I understand people's desire for the old-school cable-based parking brake systems, but they rust and rot as well. Consistent use preserves both systems. However, I cannot understand why people aren't better taught to ALWAYS use the parking brake. Relying purely upon the parking prawl to hold a vehicle, especially on an incline, is just crazy to me. I trained myself and my wife to use the p-brake whenever parking, be it our auto, electric, or manual vehicles. I think the biggest issue with electronic parking brakes is the tools needed to do a simple brake job.
There is an optional way to test if you can get to the wires of working electric parking brake motor, such that you can get a PicoScope current clamp around one of the wires, and take a scope single shot of the current waveforms when actuating the motor. You can then better understand the functional unit test in terms of currents to compare to the non-working side. If the motor is a brushed DC motor you should be able to actuate it on the bench with a DC Power Supply, first one direction and then in the other. The module drive circuitry is probably a Protected Semiconductor Switch H-Bridge using 12VDC supply with a current sense circuit.
Not any kind of mechanic but why not try new harness first? W/o changing motor? And then if still no-go, put in motor? Well, you answered…Cuz crap migrated inside motor…longer term fix. Bravo.
" Remember when parking brakes had cables" lol Just inspected a 2022 trailblazer. GM has put electronic park brake on the front axle. What will they do next. Great job as always.
@@saeedkizzy the motor might still function but the connector on it is corroded. It might still work for a time if you try and polish up the pins, but when the outer coating on those little pins get eaten away then it will quickly get crusty again. If he left the old motor on then it would just ruin the replacement wiring harness, and the customer would have to come back and pay even more money.
He has to warranty his work, so if he reused the old and it failed, he would have to eat the new actuator and not get paid for the labor to do it. Unless the customer specifically said, don’t change it and he can document that, it’s better to replace.
The movie - 'Never There', the next day comment took me there. There are three cables on my 92 D-350, one broke. I like the simple mechanical's of a cable, but this was a lot easier repair. You have to pull the axle to get at the cable end in the wheel.
Great job . I enjoy watching your videos . I have never heard about electric parking brakes. I have a 2018 Toyota Rav 4 with a hand brake. I change my air and cabin filters and that's about it. Toyota changes the oil for me . I guess I will stay with Toyota . Blessings from South Florida.
Cup of coffee and a new episode of SMA can't get any better than this.
Great job as always, Eric. Problems like this make me miss the days of cable-driven parking brakes. Simple and effective, and no computers involved.
...and completely useless with rusted solid cable after 3 years. Dad had to admonish us to never apply the parking brake because it wouldn't release and would drag until you wore down the pads
@@John_Ridley It seizes exactly because it's not used. If you use it every time you park your car, it'll last a long time.
I don't mind the computerized aspect of it. I just dislike it because you can't use it to break traction on the rear wheels if you want to play a little bit.
@@johnnyblue4799 this statement holds water...
One of the things I love about my 22 Tacoma, still a cable driven rear drum parking break
I liked that you left the working caliper plugged in so that you could tell when the scan tool was actuating
Thanks as always, Eric. They can overcomplicate the system, but they can't overcomplicate the diagnosis. Awesome.😊
Around here park brakes are required to pass bi-annual inspection. So few people use them that the cables seize up (good old salt) and they get replaced repeatedly. I use mine all the time and the cables last forever.
I'm still using a mechanical parking brake. 25 years old and works great. 1999 Camry. Ah the wonders of engineers and modern technology!
One thing about Toyota, I bought a new Tacoma about a year ago and it probably had the same exact parts that are in the 1999 Camry for the rear brakes haha. It's a mechanical drum parking brake in the rear
And guess what, it’s a parking brake. I just want it to work, I could care less that it’s electrical or mechanical.
My kid has a 99 Camry with 260k on it. It is hands down the best car we have ever owned.
@@mikemaccracken3112 Straight on sir! only 151k on the clock. I'll drive it until the frame rots!
@@hokie9910 $$$
This mechanic amazes me with his electrical troubleshooting.
Saved me $500. I removed the wheel and confirmed the parking brake was not working on the left side. There was a grinding noise. The plug to the motor looked good so I changed the motor by taking off the brake caliper. It went clean and smooth. I used an aftermarket $70 motor instead of the $220 OEM. Hopefully it’ll hold out. I used SylGlide on the O ring as the aftermarket Chinese motor did not come with any lubricant. After I removed the O-ring, it was clear that it had been compromised, and this was likely the cause of the failure as there was a lot of moisture when I took the motor off. Thanks for making this a one hour job instead of a four hour job. I was able to return the harness so the whole job cost me only $70.
I'm guessing your reading glasses must be years old but actually brand new? Join the club & look more distinguished/knowledgeable! No one will hold it against you. You're still the best on RUclips!
Nice to see you embracing the future and breaking out the electric tools.
just bought a ford fusion with this exact problem, thanks for the diagnosis your videos fully explained the problem and the solution that i feel confident in fixing the issue myself
Another adventure with a happy ending. Green crusty chasing is the culprit.
Hi, Mr. O. It is great to see the Spring in NY is well under way. Enjoy it! Thanks for sharing!
Winter is only temporarily suspended, after all it is the PRNY.
O
Had green crusty on my clutch safety switch in my 30 year old truck. Felt like Mr. O fixing stuff. Thanks for calm instruction, got out my wiring diagram and did it, cause Mr. O said I could! 👍👍
I'm in the same kinda rust belt in Northern Wisconsin. The rule is, use your e-brake at least once in awhile, so when you do need it, it's not frozen with rust. My 97' Blazer still has a working e-brake.
Wisconsin doesn't use the salt that New York does. I've had cables that were used daily, bind. I'm a retired mechanic turned long haul trucker. I run New York to Seattle on a regular basis. You guys don't use anywhere near the salt that New York does.
Excellent video. It gave me a good laugh too. You know you have become a hardened mechanic numb to the world when at time 10:40 you can say that $50 for an 18 inch 2 wire harness isn’t a bad price.
Connectors in wheel wells in the salt belt. What could go wrong
Nice work, when I grow up in the troubleshooting world I want to be just like you!! Nice to see a real pro at work.
Hi Eric.
Have been following for ages and love the videos.
Right up my street this one.
I worked on the design of this Continental iEPB caliper, and it does cut-off the power when a current threshold has been reached. 1 amp per KN really roughly. This system will cutoff at around 17 amps, therefore 17KN.
Hi from the UK.
So, you're to blame. Thank you for keeping us lowly technicians fed.
Ha ha.
I guess you could say that.
What happens if your battery dies????? Give me a cable!
Hello @Davidcogin601 and Eric,
Thanks for the great info! I am using these calipers on a custom application and was wondering if I should use a 15 or 20 amp relay to activate the cut-off power when applied since I will not be using the engine harness to operate these calipers? Still trying to figure out the power issue.
Thanks again, cheers!
I've done this on my parents 2016 edge also. For future reference, open up that harness in a pinch. It's very common for the wires to just break in the middle of that harness, must be a design fault. In the end I did just replace the harness, because it was cheap. However of course you did good because there was corrosion on the motor itself. Great video as always
I'm glad you showed this diagnosis and repair. I have wondered how the system worked. Now I'm not so intimidated by it, just don't like not having mechanical control of the parking in case of a power loss. I'm assuming there are redundancies in that case. Great work Eric! I watch a couple of yours and Ray's videos on a sunny day and next thing I know, I'm under the hood tinkering with my 2001 Durango.
I used to have park brake cables get moisture in them and then freeze up in the Winter immobilizing the car. Not really sure which has the advantage. Both have potential issues! Great job here. I'll remember this as my wife has the same car! Thanks man!
Parking brake cables only get water in them when the rubber seals at the end have rotted and fallen apart, so this is a problem of maintenance.
Anything has the potential to have a problem. But I'd rather be replacing a $30 cable than a $250 harness and motor - and I can always free up the cable with a little kroil if I can't afford the $30 just now. Not to mention the ease of diag on the cable. I fail to see any advantage to the electric brake that makes up for the increased price.
@@aussiebloke609 I believe the main perceived advanatge (for the manufacturer) is a small button to actuate the electric parking brake takes up less "real estate" in the interior than a mechanical lever/cable mechanism. Freeing up that space makes room for seat heater buttons, USB ports, wireless charger pads, larger cupholders, etc.
@@aussiebloke609 I believe the brakes are electric to allow the car to apply the brakes automatically for situations such as collision avoidance and adaptive cruise control.
It opens up styling inside the car. Nothing wrong with the foot pedal though unless it has to do with construction.
WHY? Why do these manufacturers think we need this when a cable type system has been working forever? Not everything needs to be electronic! Great job on the repair!
Yes. Just as quick as a jiffy, we have parts in hand; no overnight waiting. That's how it is for us in TV land. Thanks Eric.
Mr. O... You must be reading my mind! I have one these Ford's and I was thinking about the electric parking brakes just yesterday when I bought gas. I was worrying about their inevitable failure and what is involved to repair. Thank you!
Don't comment here that much, since I don't live in the salt belt, however, you really nailed it with the test light circuit function test to understand it. Always enjoy watching - Thanks for the educational & fun process!
I learned something today plus this is why new cars are so expensive.
"The bigger the glob, the better the job". Got to remember that one. 😄
Nice work. Electric parking brake by Continental. Klueber is a German manufacturer of grease. I think in your region - packing everything with Dielectric grease in the connectors - might not be a bad idea. You're an excellent technician. The world needs more like you.
This was a much easier job than it would have been on my old land-rover discovery 3. It had a single park brake motor with cables running to the back wheel. If the cables stretched or the wear on one side was more than the other, that motor will go wild and could strip the little plastic gears. Then it was a heck of a job (and Very expensive replacement part) to fix. Got rid of it but still kept my L-R Defender with the TD5 engine. Much simpler and easier to work on. Greetings from sunny South Africa! I'm extremely greatfull we don't have the problem with rust here like you guys do. It's much easier to keep older cars running and on the road here. My Td5 is almost 20 years old and no rust.
You are correct. It measures current during operation and translates that in to clamping force I think. Pretty much all epb's work the same, well those I've worked on at least. And it's 99% the left one on AT's that faults. People don't use it and crap from on-coming traffic get past the o-ring. Oh right, left ones here in Sweden, probably the other way around in countries where they drive on the wr..left side.
Yes all E PB's worth the same and yes we don't need any of them lol
Over in the UK I am seeing a few of EPB faults on Fords normally broken wire in the harness at the wheels, where the wire tends to pivot at suspension movement. Great videos as always
Great Video Eric.... Nice to see you work on Fords once in a while... cant wait to see you work on one with a 2.7 eco boost
Surprised you didn't apply some dielectric grease like the old Dow-Corning DC-4 to the connectors when you re-assembled them. That is the first thing I do before re-connecting any plug/jack I open up. Just prevents future problems for me. Of course I keep my vehicles for a long time, Pick-up is 19 years old and like any GM product the rust causing issues caused by the Michigan salt like you have.
I totally agree. You can use any dielectric grease just put a good gob in the connector before you mate it. It will keep the water and air out which causes the corrosion. You should do it on every connector you unplug before reconnecting it again. You will have fewer returns as well. Yes I am from the PRNY salt belt too!🤣
Guess over torquing the wheel lugs was to help the non working parking brake! Just a home made test light finds the problem. Nice work as usual.
I knew we would arrive to this point where the electric parking brake was another item added to the list of items that will fails prematurely . Electric parking brakes... a solution to a problem that never existed!!!
I call that a solution in search of a problem!
@@stevebell4906 it's probably more accurate to call the EPB a solution to create problems.
I would be happier with a standard parking brake handle and cable to actuate the parking brakes. It's cheaper and more reliable. It's a smart idea to replace the motor with the harness because you don't need call backs. If I was doing it on my own car I would replace the harness and clean the contacts and test the motor and keep it if it was still working.
⁵
I would have also fixed the harness for couple bucks
You obviously don't live in upstate New York. Parking brake cables don't last long here. The salt either eats them up or the rust binds them.
@@donmunro144 That's a lack of maintenance. Living in a salt zone you have to take care of the underside. There's plenty of spray on solutions: Krown, Fluid Film, Surface Shield, etc.
@@TheOtherBill they help but they're not a cure all.
Damn, can't even leave the park brake cable alone? 200.00 a side + labor. Thanks for letting me hang out with you while ya work Eric O.
Your work smarter not harder…..Is my Life’s mission 🤟🏻🇺🇸
Good video. Eric O didn't show off any "moves" though - which are always exciting! You know, like the no handy reach-around, the no-look confusion maker, sewing buttons on his underwear, tricks grandma told him, the "Hey Mrs. O, smell my finger" move, etc....stuff like that. Hopefully we'll see some of those again in a video soon.
Good video. Some sleuthing involved. That green crusty will get you every time !!! Replacing the cable was an excellent choice. All is fine now. On to the next one. 😃
I wanted to see if there was any special procedure to set up the motor, IE, clocking it, etc. Asked and answered! Thx Mr. O!
Need more techs like you in the UK 😊 another great video.
The uk techs do their best but when the cars y’all make are Land Rover and jaguar well only so much to be done there
There are plenty of good mechanics here, it’s sorting them out that’s the problem !
I’m curious about these electrically operated “parking brakes” I’ve only ever had mechanical handbrakes and I know how they work.
There's definitely some very talented techs here in the UK but alot of garages including main dealers will play parts darts or load the cannon. I've always watched SMA videos and been impressed with how the fault is diagnosed. I'm a tech myself and have learnt alot from this channel. some people I work along side don't even know how to apply a test light into a diagnostic procedure.
Used to be when I was a tech at gm, gm used a group number system to list their parts, once you learned how the numbering system worked, it made finding parts easy. Say you needed a part for Chevy, and it wasn't in stock. You could go to the group numbers and find the same part, but for a different Carline, say Pontiac, Oldsmobile, Buick, ect. The same part that fit a Oldsmobile, would also fit a Cadillac, but would have a big price increase, even though it was the same part
Yup I can remember that from back in the 76 when I worked in a auto parts store
Earn as you learn , that was my motto for 45 plus years of wrenching. Engineers and manufacturers have a way of doing that , just as you think you know something they change the game. I’ve always thought if the parts are readily available, it’s a problem they have with that part. Speaking of Ford parts in strange places to look up , once I was doing a water pump on a Tempo , the “ O” ring on the pipe at back of motor was not only eluding me , the dealer couldn’t find it. Turned out Ford called the “O” ring a piston , no wonder we couldn’t find it
Ah, the Tempo! And it’s cousin the Mercury Topaz. Extremely rare to see those nowadays.
Used to be that the old drum & shoe , cable brakes would be a drag. Now they're HAL fighting Dave Bowman's nightmare. " I'm sorry Dave, I'm afraid I can't do that.
😂😂😂
Love the reference!
Dave did fix it though. He did gut HAL to do it though. 😂
@@LadyAnuB Unplug Luddites Unite ! .... Back to 1986.......back to the post apocalyptic future of carburetor & EMP proof points , condenser ignition.
@@pedrorojascervantes3928 Setting points, valve adjustments, lubrication spots, bench seats, no seat belts 😅
I seen a wire for the rear abs corrode in under 5k miles, less than a year old. Idk why or how but a small pin hole was all I saw. Thankfully ford has a pig tail kit, so i didn't have to replace the whole harness ( corroded at the big rear harness, not that smaller one)
Nice work. Like your sense of humor!
#1). E. O. Do ya know of a Mechanic / Technician in San Jose California that's as GOOD as You Are???? #2). I am stoked that you actually put those Rubber Plugs back on the Caliper Slide Pins 👍🏼. #3). That Job at FORD is Like $800.00 Thankfully you do the right thing and treat folks like you would want to be treated. Great Job, and it IS FIXED!!!! Alway's enjoy watching your approach to a final Repair and Fix.
Mr. O. Thanks for the run thru with the fancy electronic gear. Been mechanicing for 56yrs, so I am old school and all I can say is WOW! . My 98 Yukon w/ 325,000miles and rust had a rough running issue one day. I tried to isolate the problem by disconnecting electrical components under the hood. The easiest one was the MAF, so I did it first. The engine sped up. When I plugged it back in problem was fixt. Speaking w/ a local repair shop owner about it, he told me to replace every sensor under the hood. They get old and go bad, he said. -OR- buy a bottle of Stabilant 22A to deoxidize the contacts. 3/4 oz bottle cost $45. I was wondering why Fix Or Repair Daily didn't use ECG in that Metri-Pack? Designed obsolesce? 109,598 on the odo and a wire is green in a Metri-Pack? After I cleaned my MAF connection w/ Stabilant I put Electrical Connection Grease in my Weather Pack it to keep it from oxidizing any more. SoFar So Good. ben/ michigan
Whenever I hear you say, “that’s interesting…”. It’s like a big question mark pops into my head. 😊
😁
Thanks, Eric, for your play-by-play diagnosis, Very good
Nice work again Mr O. I keep a list of terrible "features" that I give to people who are looking to buy a car. It quickly eliminates about 3/4 of the cars LOL.
Stay gold.
I like the way you follow the power flow. You are sounding much better
We’re looking at a master at his craft 😮
In the connectors to the new motor would a little squeeze of dielectric grease be a good idea as a water/road salt barrier ?
Omitted to allow for non-constructive criticism. Mrs O may suspend his excavator privileges🤔
What are your thoughts on using the electronics cleaner that's safe for electrical connections? I've used it with no problems.
Hi there OP this video is awesome! I learned a lot from you. Thank you for this
I can't stand these electric parking brakes! The 10 yo cable system in my F350 still works just fine even in the rust belt. Thx for the video. Eric 👍 keep em coming!
I hear you, but the epb also eliminates the entire drum-in-a-disk and all of the associated actuator parts. I've never like working on rear brakes. In this case, better connectors would have probably prevented all the problems.
I wonder if there is some kind if worm drive mechanism inside of the parking brake, I doubt that it has power going to it while the brake is on.
And even though theyve eliminated the rusty cables, the electric parking brake is STILL susceptible to the same water rust crud and green crusties as the old cable system, one would thing the plugs would at least use GM's weather pack connectors that seal out the environment - same problems in electrical parts instead of mechanical parts, gee what an improvement. Makes me wonder what one does if the motor locks onto to the rotor then the motor itself dies with no way to release it, what then-?? Great work GM.
I remember the time...a man...your average man ...armed with a toolbox full of Craftsman ratchets...sockets...wrenches and screwdrivers...could keep his car/truck running forever
Gotta love it when it comes with a special packet of goo. That’s how you know you got the good stuff
Eric O’…Great job for sure! What do you think of these Extended Warranty Services? Do you work with these companies if your customer has this coverage??
You and Mark Dice (and Scotty!) are the only videos I watch every single time. I like Scotty!!!! Don't hate me.
Nice video and diagnosis. I don’t know which system works better with all the road salt in the PRNY.
These were once called "emergency" brakes; brakes that worked regardless of anything else failing. Even put them on the driveshafts sometimes. Now they are electric and connected to a computer, keeping the economy humming along with repair bills. Simple, back in the day the old emergency brakes were just as unreliable, but we didn't care, as nobody used them anyway, and there were no state vehicle inspections.
Great video! Does anyone know of a video explaining how to set up a parking brake for a 2016 Ford Explorer with the wind in integrated parking brake?
The electric parking brake seems like it was engineered to make you have to pay the dealership to work on it, because according to the Nissan service manual I totally don’t have, it’s a whole different process. I mean I was lazy to start with and I wasn’t doing anything beyond minimal effort but some people have to work on their cars
Keep working on those Fords, you'll be a certified Ford mechanic in no-time! 😆
Hi Eric, Not cheap I could replace the whole cable system for that amount, but the labor would be more$$. I'll stick with cables for now or as long as I can. Good piece Eric, Thanks!
Assuming they’re available. Parking brake cables that are worth a crap are getting hard to find on a lot of cars. Dorman or China crap will fail within 6 months, not even worth installing
Thanks again brother, that's why I like the old cable park brakes ! We sold are 2015 edge back to the dealership we bought it after 1 yr. 😂
Record high temp in Avoca today. That's always fun. :(
I have a VW Jetta, my local parts store had a 9mm heli-coil kit (I think my brakes use the same slide pin as Ford)
9mm is a very odd size, I'm really surprised a local parts place had that in stock!
I understand people's desire for the old-school cable-based parking brake systems, but they rust and rot as well. Consistent use preserves both systems. However, I cannot understand why people aren't better taught to ALWAYS use the parking brake. Relying purely upon the parking prawl to hold a vehicle, especially on an incline, is just crazy to me. I trained myself and my wife to use the p-brake whenever parking, be it our auto, electric, or manual vehicles.
I think the biggest issue with electronic parking brakes is the tools needed to do a simple brake job.
There is an optional way to test if you can get to the wires of working electric parking brake motor, such that you can get a PicoScope current clamp around one of the wires, and take a scope single shot of the current waveforms when actuating the motor. You can then better understand the functional unit test in terms of currents to compare to the non-working side.
If the motor is a brushed DC motor you should be able to actuate it on the bench with a DC Power Supply, first one direction and then in the other. The module drive circuitry is probably a Protected Semiconductor Switch H-Bridge using 12VDC supply with a current sense circuit.
I’ve never seen or even heard of electric park brake, but in today’s world of cars and electronics it doesn’t surprise me.
Great work as always. Torx, Allen, same thing
Nice video !! I wonder if a little bulb grease would have been good to put on those connectors ??? Some protection from turning green ??
Why would any manufacturer think that the public would EVER need or want an electric park brake -just more crap to go bad and cost lots of $$$$$ !!!
Not any kind of mechanic but why not try new harness first? W/o changing motor? And then if still no-go, put in motor?
Well, you answered…Cuz crap migrated inside motor…longer term fix. Bravo.
That's why I like driving my 03 Carrolla not that much electronical crap like ABS malfunction etc.
Green Crusty stuff means it done, Something I learned that lesson during my car audio repair days.
Another interesting fix by Eric the Magician....
" Remember when parking brakes had cables" lol Just inspected a 2022 trailblazer.
GM has put electronic park brake on the front axle. What will they do next. Great job as always.
Put them on all four wheels
Dang it, Eric. Now everyone will know mechanics actually CAN read. You're giving away our secrets.
I've been subscribed so long I remember when the Verus was all Eric used!
The owner said they never used it, but it gets applied every time you shut off and get out (at least the e-brake on the 2016 Buick does).
Oh my god, did you finally get rid of the air ratchet? 🎉
Always informative Mr o!
Hi, thanks for the video, Eric. I have a question: was it necessary to change the motor did you check its resistance?
He said he thought that the pin corrosion would migrate up into the motor and it was just better to replace it....
@@MicroSoftner Yes but I think it is worth checking considering the motor costs around 200$
@@saeedkizzy yea really, prolly good idea
@@saeedkizzy the motor might still function but the connector on it is corroded. It might still work for a time if you try and polish up the pins, but when the outer coating on those little pins get eaten away then it will quickly get crusty again. If he left the old motor on then it would just ruin the replacement wiring harness, and the customer would have to come back and pay even more money.
He has to warranty his work, so if he reused the old and it failed, he would have to eat the new actuator and not get paid for the labor to do it.
Unless the customer specifically said, don’t change it and he can document that, it’s better to replace.
Great job as usual and I did especially like hearing that you take care of your tools.
The movie - 'Never There', the next day comment took me there. There are three cables on my 92 D-350, one broke. I like the simple mechanical's of a cable, but this was a lot easier repair. You have to pull the axle to get at the cable end in the wheel.
Good Job Boss. I had no ideas there was such a thing on any auto, I still trap the tires when working on a car or truck when I need to jack it up.
Great video man
Great place to put a connector at the top of the wheel arch ,it's a wonder that one wasn't corroded too !
Another great job. The best mechanic going
Awesome job.
Great job . I enjoy watching your videos . I have never heard about electric parking brakes. I have a 2018 Toyota Rav 4 with a hand brake. I change my air and cabin filters and that's about it. Toyota changes the oil for me . I guess I will stay with Toyota . Blessings from South Florida.
Who decided it was too much work to push in or pull out a park brake?
Would it have been worth it to jumper the harness from a known good connector to the motor?