...and completely useless with rusted solid cable after 3 years. Dad had to admonish us to never apply the parking brake because it wouldn't release and would drag until you wore down the pads
I don't mind the computerized aspect of it. I just dislike it because you can't use it to break traction on the rear wheels if you want to play a little bit.
Around here park brakes are required to pass bi-annual inspection. So few people use them that the cables seize up (good old salt) and they get replaced repeatedly. I use mine all the time and the cables last forever.
Well, I got here because I am having issues with my left EPB motor not releasing on a different Ford. Watched the video, now on to trying to diagnose it on my own car. It always looks so straight forward in videos like these where the person knows what they're doing then I get to my car and find everything looking and working completely differently and I have no clue how to proceed 😀anyway, time to try it at least. Great video, man!
I'm guessing your reading glasses must be years old but actually brand new? Join the club & look more distinguished/knowledgeable! No one will hold it against you. You're still the best on RUclips!
Excellent video. It gave me a good laugh too. You know you have become a hardened mechanic numb to the world when at time 10:40 you can say that $50 for an 18 inch 2 wire harness isn’t a bad price.
I've done this on my parents 2016 edge also. For future reference, open up that harness in a pinch. It's very common for the wires to just break in the middle of that harness, must be a design fault. In the end I did just replace the harness, because it was cheap. However of course you did good because there was corrosion on the motor itself. Great video as always
Saved me $500. I removed the wheel and confirmed the parking brake was not working on the left side. There was a grinding noise. The plug to the motor looked good so I changed the motor by taking off the brake caliper. It went clean and smooth. I used an aftermarket $70 motor instead of the $220 OEM. Hopefully it’ll hold out. I used SylGlide on the O ring as the aftermarket Chinese motor did not come with any lubricant. After I removed the O-ring, it was clear that it had been compromised, and this was likely the cause of the failure as there was a lot of moisture when I took the motor off. Thanks for making this a one hour job instead of a four hour job. I was able to return the harness so the whole job cost me only $70.
Hi Eric. Have been following for ages and love the videos. Right up my street this one. I worked on the design of this Continental iEPB caliper, and it does cut-off the power when a current threshold has been reached. 1 amp per KN really roughly. This system will cutoff at around 17 amps, therefore 17KN. Hi from the UK.
Hello @Davidcogin601 and Eric, Thanks for the great info! I am using these calipers on a custom application and was wondering if I should use a 15 or 20 amp relay to activate the cut-off power when applied since I will not be using the engine harness to operate these calipers? Still trying to figure out the power issue. Thanks again, cheers!
just bought a ford fusion with this exact problem, thanks for the diagnosis your videos fully explained the problem and the solution that i feel confident in fixing the issue myself
I'm glad you showed this diagnosis and repair. I have wondered how the system worked. Now I'm not so intimidated by it, just don't like not having mechanical control of the parking in case of a power loss. I'm assuming there are redundancies in that case. Great work Eric! I watch a couple of yours and Ray's videos on a sunny day and next thing I know, I'm under the hood tinkering with my 2001 Durango.
Had green crusty on my clutch safety switch in my 30 year old truck. Felt like Mr. O fixing stuff. Thanks for calm instruction, got out my wiring diagram and did it, cause Mr. O said I could! 👍👍
Don't comment here that much, since I don't live in the salt belt, however, you really nailed it with the test light circuit function test to understand it. Always enjoy watching - Thanks for the educational & fun process!
Mr. O... You must be reading my mind! I have one these Ford's and I was thinking about the electric parking brakes just yesterday when I bought gas. I was worrying about their inevitable failure and what is involved to repair. Thank you!
I'm in the same kinda rust belt in Northern Wisconsin. The rule is, use your e-brake at least once in awhile, so when you do need it, it's not frozen with rust. My 97' Blazer still has a working e-brake.
Wisconsin doesn't use the salt that New York does. I've had cables that were used daily, bind. I'm a retired mechanic turned long haul trucker. I run New York to Seattle on a regular basis. You guys don't use anywhere near the salt that New York does.
Good video. Some sleuthing involved. That green crusty will get you every time !!! Replacing the cable was an excellent choice. All is fine now. On to the next one. 😃
One thing about Toyota, I bought a new Tacoma about a year ago and it probably had the same exact parts that are in the 1999 Camry for the rear brakes haha. It's a mechanical drum parking brake in the rear
Over in the UK I am seeing a few of EPB faults on Fords normally broken wire in the harness at the wheels, where the wire tends to pivot at suspension movement. Great videos as always
I used to have park brake cables get moisture in them and then freeze up in the Winter immobilizing the car. Not really sure which has the advantage. Both have potential issues! Great job here. I'll remember this as my wife has the same car! Thanks man!
Anything has the potential to have a problem. But I'd rather be replacing a $30 cable than a $250 harness and motor - and I can always free up the cable with a little kroil if I can't afford the $30 just now. Not to mention the ease of diag on the cable. I fail to see any advantage to the electric brake that makes up for the increased price.
@@aussiebloke609 I believe the main perceived advanatge (for the manufacturer) is a small button to actuate the electric parking brake takes up less "real estate" in the interior than a mechanical lever/cable mechanism. Freeing up that space makes room for seat heater buttons, USB ports, wireless charger pads, larger cupholders, etc.
@@aussiebloke609 I believe the brakes are electric to allow the car to apply the brakes automatically for situations such as collision avoidance and adaptive cruise control.
This was a much easier job than it would have been on my old land-rover discovery 3. It had a single park brake motor with cables running to the back wheel. If the cables stretched or the wear on one side was more than the other, that motor will go wild and could strip the little plastic gears. Then it was a heck of a job (and Very expensive replacement part) to fix. Got rid of it but still kept my L-R Defender with the TD5 engine. Much simpler and easier to work on. Greetings from sunny South Africa! I'm extremely greatfull we don't have the problem with rust here like you guys do. It's much easier to keep older cars running and on the road here. My Td5 is almost 20 years old and no rust.
Nice work. Electric parking brake by Continental. Klueber is a German manufacturer of grease. I think in your region - packing everything with Dielectric grease in the connectors - might not be a bad idea. You're an excellent technician. The world needs more like you.
You are correct. It measures current during operation and translates that in to clamping force I think. Pretty much all epb's work the same, well those I've worked on at least. And it's 99% the left one on AT's that faults. People don't use it and crap from on-coming traffic get past the o-ring. Oh right, left ones here in Sweden, probably the other way around in countries where they drive on the wr..left side.
Good video. Eric O didn't show off any "moves" though - which are always exciting! You know, like the no handy reach-around, the no-look confusion maker, sewing buttons on his underwear, tricks grandma told him, the "Hey Mrs. O, smell my finger" move, etc....stuff like that. Hopefully we'll see some of those again in a video soon.
There are plenty of good mechanics here, it’s sorting them out that’s the problem ! I’m curious about these electrically operated “parking brakes” I’ve only ever had mechanical handbrakes and I know how they work.
There's definitely some very talented techs here in the UK but alot of garages including main dealers will play parts darts or load the cannon. I've always watched SMA videos and been impressed with how the fault is diagnosed. I'm a tech myself and have learnt alot from this channel. some people I work along side don't even know how to apply a test light into a diagnostic procedure.
Nice work again Mr O. I keep a list of terrible "features" that I give to people who are looking to buy a car. It quickly eliminates about 3/4 of the cars LOL. Stay gold.
Mr. O. Thanks for the run thru with the fancy electronic gear. Been mechanicing for 56yrs, so I am old school and all I can say is WOW! . My 98 Yukon w/ 325,000miles and rust had a rough running issue one day. I tried to isolate the problem by disconnecting electrical components under the hood. The easiest one was the MAF, so I did it first. The engine sped up. When I plugged it back in problem was fixt. Speaking w/ a local repair shop owner about it, he told me to replace every sensor under the hood. They get old and go bad, he said. -OR- buy a bottle of Stabilant 22A to deoxidize the contacts. 3/4 oz bottle cost $45. I was wondering why Fix Or Repair Daily didn't use ECG in that Metri-Pack? Designed obsolesce? 109,598 on the odo and a wire is green in a Metri-Pack? After I cleaned my MAF connection w/ Stabilant I put Electrical Connection Grease in my Weather Pack it to keep it from oxidizing any more. SoFar So Good. ben/ michigan
#1). E. O. Do ya know of a Mechanic / Technician in San Jose California that's as GOOD as You Are???? #2). I am stoked that you actually put those Rubber Plugs back on the Caliper Slide Pins 👍🏼. #3). That Job at FORD is Like $800.00 Thankfully you do the right thing and treat folks like you would want to be treated. Great Job, and it IS FIXED!!!! Alway's enjoy watching your approach to a final Repair and Fix.
Surprised you didn't apply some dielectric grease like the old Dow-Corning DC-4 to the connectors when you re-assembled them. That is the first thing I do before re-connecting any plug/jack I open up. Just prevents future problems for me. Of course I keep my vehicles for a long time, Pick-up is 19 years old and like any GM product the rust causing issues caused by the Michigan salt like you have.
I totally agree. You can use any dielectric grease just put a good gob in the connector before you mate it. It will keep the water and air out which causes the corrosion. You should do it on every connector you unplug before reconnecting it again. You will have fewer returns as well. Yes I am from the PRNY salt belt too!🤣
I seen a wire for the rear abs corrode in under 5k miles, less than a year old. Idk why or how but a small pin hole was all I saw. Thankfully ford has a pig tail kit, so i didn't have to replace the whole harness ( corroded at the big rear harness, not that smaller one)
WHY? Why do these manufacturers think we need this when a cable type system has been working forever? Not everything needs to be electronic! Great job on the repair!
I would be happier with a standard parking brake handle and cable to actuate the parking brakes. It's cheaper and more reliable. It's a smart idea to replace the motor with the harness because you don't need call backs. If I was doing it on my own car I would replace the harness and clean the contacts and test the motor and keep it if it was still working.
@@donmunro144 That's a lack of maintenance. Living in a salt zone you have to take care of the underside. There's plenty of spray on solutions: Krown, Fluid Film, Surface Shield, etc.
Hi Eric, Not cheap I could replace the whole cable system for that amount, but the labor would be more$$. I'll stick with cables for now or as long as I can. Good piece Eric, Thanks!
Assuming they’re available. Parking brake cables that are worth a crap are getting hard to find on a lot of cars. Dorman or China crap will fail within 6 months, not even worth installing
Used to be when I was a tech at gm, gm used a group number system to list their parts, once you learned how the numbering system worked, it made finding parts easy. Say you needed a part for Chevy, and it wasn't in stock. You could go to the group numbers and find the same part, but for a different Carline, say Pontiac, Oldsmobile, Buick, ect. The same part that fit a Oldsmobile, would also fit a Cadillac, but would have a big price increase, even though it was the same part
I can't stand these electric parking brakes! The 10 yo cable system in my F350 still works just fine even in the rust belt. Thx for the video. Eric 👍 keep em coming!
I hear you, but the epb also eliminates the entire drum-in-a-disk and all of the associated actuator parts. I've never like working on rear brakes. In this case, better connectors would have probably prevented all the problems.
Earn as you learn , that was my motto for 45 plus years of wrenching. Engineers and manufacturers have a way of doing that , just as you think you know something they change the game. I’ve always thought if the parts are readily available, it’s a problem they have with that part. Speaking of Ford parts in strange places to look up , once I was doing a water pump on a Tempo , the “ O” ring on the pipe at back of motor was not only eluding me , the dealer couldn’t find it. Turned out Ford called the “O” ring a piston , no wonder we couldn’t find it
And even though theyve eliminated the rusty cables, the electric parking brake is STILL susceptible to the same water rust crud and green crusties as the old cable system, one would thing the plugs would at least use GM's weather pack connectors that seal out the environment - same problems in electrical parts instead of mechanical parts, gee what an improvement. Makes me wonder what one does if the motor locks onto to the rotor then the motor itself dies with no way to release it, what then-?? Great work GM.
The movie - 'Never There', the next day comment took me there. There are three cables on my 92 D-350, one broke. I like the simple mechanical's of a cable, but this was a lot easier repair. You have to pull the axle to get at the cable end in the wheel.
Hi buddy.. having the right tools always helps ... Great job for this customer.. Can you please put on your safety glasses when you work on the vehicle I don't want you getting anything into your eyes 👀👀👀 .. Have a great weekend and I enjoy watching THE DOCTOR at work and remember if i can do it you can do it .. Your friend THE BANDIT AKA BOB from Illinois..
Great job . I enjoy watching your videos . I have never heard about electric parking brakes. I have a 2018 Toyota Rav 4 with a hand brake. I change my air and cabin filters and that's about it. Toyota changes the oil for me . I guess I will stay with Toyota . Blessings from South Florida.
" Remember when parking brakes had cables" lol Just inspected a 2022 trailblazer. GM has put electronic park brake on the front axle. What will they do next. Great job as always.
Oh Oh. I'm going to guess before watching. Broken wire in the harness about 6-8 inches away from the motor, terminals and wiring corroded, and some green on the motor pins too. Had the same thing on the same side on essentially the same car a while back. Got a pigtail and a new motor and all was well. Edit: Yep! Harness is available now, but sadly a few years ago all I could get was a pigtail from Standard. A tip on dirt packed connectors, water is an excellent solvent for dirt and salt!
Allen wernches?? I use Bondhus "Hex" wrenches. Both are brand names. Looks like Allen works well. In 1909-1910, William G. Allen also patented a method of cold-forming screw heads around a hexagonal die (U.S. Patent 960,244). I used to work for Danaher Tool Group designing sockets. (A little Trivia about such a common tool)
My 18 f150 had this happen randomly while coming home from trades school. Ended up being a bad wire near the right rear park brake actuator. I crawled underneath seen a suspect spot in the wire loom. Gave one wire the ol tug test it was good gave the other one a tug test and with absolute no effort it broke. Didn’t get the chance to film the money shot. I figured out which wire was the issue with a simple voltage loss test. Had almost battery voltage of loss on one of the wires.
I knew we would arrive to this point where the electric parking brake was another item added to the list of items that will fails prematurely . Electric parking brakes... a solution to a problem that never existed!!!
Still trying to figure how EE park brakes are a cost savings over cables. Makes no sense. Maybe assembly labor. Eric, this job was a nicer finish than that reaccuring EE issue you had on the F250 pickup. At the end you were so pissed off you didn't end with your classic lines. Your still #1 of all the on line boys, especially our favorite band leader Scotty K😅
There is an optional way to test if you can get to the wires of working electric parking brake motor, such that you can get a PicoScope current clamp around one of the wires, and take a scope single shot of the current waveforms when actuating the motor. You can then better understand the functional unit test in terms of currents to compare to the non-working side. If the motor is a brushed DC motor you should be able to actuate it on the bench with a DC Power Supply, first one direction and then in the other. The module drive circuitry is probably a Protected Semiconductor Switch H-Bridge using 12VDC supply with a current sense circuit.
My dads Avensis has one of these electric parking brakes. Its an automatic as well. I miss having a regular handbrake. Although fair play in 10 years its had no issues.
Now it's happening on the right hand side I'm going to do a test again perhaps even just repair the line instead of buying a new one more cost-effective might break down again though. I noticed you didn't isolate the motor but simply replace it
Eric O’…Great job for sure! What do you think of these Extended Warranty Services? Do you work with these companies if your customer has this coverage??
Im glad you mentioned why you changed the motor as well, I was wondering if the old one would work with just a harness change. Thumbs up! Question - if you didnt have a tool to invoke the self-calibration, would it learn by itself after some usage?
Great job as always, Eric. Problems like this make me miss the days of cable-driven parking brakes. Simple and effective, and no computers involved.
...and completely useless with rusted solid cable after 3 years. Dad had to admonish us to never apply the parking brake because it wouldn't release and would drag until you wore down the pads
@@John_Ridley It seizes exactly because it's not used. If you use it every time you park your car, it'll last a long time.
I don't mind the computerized aspect of it. I just dislike it because you can't use it to break traction on the rear wheels if you want to play a little bit.
@@johnnyblue4799 this statement holds water...
One of the things I love about my 22 Tacoma, still a cable driven rear drum parking break
Cup of coffee and a new episode of SMA can't get any better than this.
I liked that you left the working caliper plugged in so that you could tell when the scan tool was actuating
Thanks as always, Eric. They can overcomplicate the system, but they can't overcomplicate the diagnosis. Awesome.😊
Around here park brakes are required to pass bi-annual inspection. So few people use them that the cables seize up (good old salt) and they get replaced repeatedly. I use mine all the time and the cables last forever.
Well, I got here because I am having issues with my left EPB motor not releasing on a different Ford. Watched the video, now on to trying to diagnose it on my own car. It always looks so straight forward in videos like these where the person knows what they're doing then I get to my car and find everything looking and working completely differently and I have no clue how to proceed 😀anyway, time to try it at least.
Great video, man!
This mechanic amazes me with his electrical troubleshooting.
Hi, Mr. O. It is great to see the Spring in NY is well under way. Enjoy it! Thanks for sharing!
Winter is only temporarily suspended, after all it is the PRNY.
O
Nice to see you embracing the future and breaking out the electric tools.
I'm guessing your reading glasses must be years old but actually brand new? Join the club & look more distinguished/knowledgeable! No one will hold it against you. You're still the best on RUclips!
Nice work, when I grow up in the troubleshooting world I want to be just like you!! Nice to see a real pro at work.
Excellent video. It gave me a good laugh too. You know you have become a hardened mechanic numb to the world when at time 10:40 you can say that $50 for an 18 inch 2 wire harness isn’t a bad price.
I've done this on my parents 2016 edge also. For future reference, open up that harness in a pinch. It's very common for the wires to just break in the middle of that harness, must be a design fault. In the end I did just replace the harness, because it was cheap. However of course you did good because there was corrosion on the motor itself. Great video as always
Saved me $500. I removed the wheel and confirmed the parking brake was not working on the left side. There was a grinding noise. The plug to the motor looked good so I changed the motor by taking off the brake caliper. It went clean and smooth. I used an aftermarket $70 motor instead of the $220 OEM. Hopefully it’ll hold out. I used SylGlide on the O ring as the aftermarket Chinese motor did not come with any lubricant. After I removed the O-ring, it was clear that it had been compromised, and this was likely the cause of the failure as there was a lot of moisture when I took the motor off. Thanks for making this a one hour job instead of a four hour job. I was able to return the harness so the whole job cost me only $70.
Hi Eric.
Have been following for ages and love the videos.
Right up my street this one.
I worked on the design of this Continental iEPB caliper, and it does cut-off the power when a current threshold has been reached. 1 amp per KN really roughly. This system will cutoff at around 17 amps, therefore 17KN.
Hi from the UK.
So, you're to blame. Thank you for keeping us lowly technicians fed.
Ha ha.
I guess you could say that.
What happens if your battery dies????? Give me a cable!
Hello @Davidcogin601 and Eric,
Thanks for the great info! I am using these calipers on a custom application and was wondering if I should use a 15 or 20 amp relay to activate the cut-off power when applied since I will not be using the engine harness to operate these calipers? Still trying to figure out the power issue.
Thanks again, cheers!
just bought a ford fusion with this exact problem, thanks for the diagnosis your videos fully explained the problem and the solution that i feel confident in fixing the issue myself
I'm glad you showed this diagnosis and repair. I have wondered how the system worked. Now I'm not so intimidated by it, just don't like not having mechanical control of the parking in case of a power loss. I'm assuming there are redundancies in that case. Great work Eric! I watch a couple of yours and Ray's videos on a sunny day and next thing I know, I'm under the hood tinkering with my 2001 Durango.
Had green crusty on my clutch safety switch in my 30 year old truck. Felt like Mr. O fixing stuff. Thanks for calm instruction, got out my wiring diagram and did it, cause Mr. O said I could! 👍👍
Yes. Just as quick as a jiffy, we have parts in hand; no overnight waiting. That's how it is for us in TV land. Thanks Eric.
Don't comment here that much, since I don't live in the salt belt, however, you really nailed it with the test light circuit function test to understand it. Always enjoy watching - Thanks for the educational & fun process!
Mr. O... You must be reading my mind! I have one these Ford's and I was thinking about the electric parking brakes just yesterday when I bought gas. I was worrying about their inevitable failure and what is involved to repair. Thank you!
I'm in the same kinda rust belt in Northern Wisconsin. The rule is, use your e-brake at least once in awhile, so when you do need it, it's not frozen with rust. My 97' Blazer still has a working e-brake.
Wisconsin doesn't use the salt that New York does. I've had cables that were used daily, bind. I'm a retired mechanic turned long haul trucker. I run New York to Seattle on a regular basis. You guys don't use anywhere near the salt that New York does.
Great Video Eric.... Nice to see you work on Fords once in a while... cant wait to see you work on one with a 2.7 eco boost
Good video. Some sleuthing involved. That green crusty will get you every time !!! Replacing the cable was an excellent choice. All is fine now. On to the next one. 😃
I'm still using a mechanical parking brake. 25 years old and works great. 1999 Camry. Ah the wonders of engineers and modern technology!
One thing about Toyota, I bought a new Tacoma about a year ago and it probably had the same exact parts that are in the 1999 Camry for the rear brakes haha. It's a mechanical drum parking brake in the rear
And guess what, it’s a parking brake. I just want it to work, I could care less that it’s electrical or mechanical.
My kid has a 99 Camry with 260k on it. It is hands down the best car we have ever owned.
@@mikemaccracken3112 Straight on sir! only 151k on the clock. I'll drive it until the frame rots!
@@hokie9910 $$$
Over in the UK I am seeing a few of EPB faults on Fords normally broken wire in the harness at the wheels, where the wire tends to pivot at suspension movement. Great videos as always
I used to have park brake cables get moisture in them and then freeze up in the Winter immobilizing the car. Not really sure which has the advantage. Both have potential issues! Great job here. I'll remember this as my wife has the same car! Thanks man!
Parking brake cables only get water in them when the rubber seals at the end have rotted and fallen apart, so this is a problem of maintenance.
Anything has the potential to have a problem. But I'd rather be replacing a $30 cable than a $250 harness and motor - and I can always free up the cable with a little kroil if I can't afford the $30 just now. Not to mention the ease of diag on the cable. I fail to see any advantage to the electric brake that makes up for the increased price.
@@aussiebloke609 I believe the main perceived advanatge (for the manufacturer) is a small button to actuate the electric parking brake takes up less "real estate" in the interior than a mechanical lever/cable mechanism. Freeing up that space makes room for seat heater buttons, USB ports, wireless charger pads, larger cupholders, etc.
@@aussiebloke609 I believe the brakes are electric to allow the car to apply the brakes automatically for situations such as collision avoidance and adaptive cruise control.
It opens up styling inside the car. Nothing wrong with the foot pedal though unless it has to do with construction.
Connectors in wheel wells in the salt belt. What could go wrong
Guess over torquing the wheel lugs was to help the non working parking brake! Just a home made test light finds the problem. Nice work as usual.
This was a much easier job than it would have been on my old land-rover discovery 3. It had a single park brake motor with cables running to the back wheel. If the cables stretched or the wear on one side was more than the other, that motor will go wild and could strip the little plastic gears. Then it was a heck of a job (and Very expensive replacement part) to fix. Got rid of it but still kept my L-R Defender with the TD5 engine. Much simpler and easier to work on. Greetings from sunny South Africa! I'm extremely greatfull we don't have the problem with rust here like you guys do. It's much easier to keep older cars running and on the road here. My Td5 is almost 20 years old and no rust.
Nice work. Electric parking brake by Continental. Klueber is a German manufacturer of grease. I think in your region - packing everything with Dielectric grease in the connectors - might not be a bad idea. You're an excellent technician. The world needs more like you.
You are correct. It measures current during operation and translates that in to clamping force I think. Pretty much all epb's work the same, well those I've worked on at least. And it's 99% the left one on AT's that faults. People don't use it and crap from on-coming traffic get past the o-ring. Oh right, left ones here in Sweden, probably the other way around in countries where they drive on the wr..left side.
Yes all E PB's worth the same and yes we don't need any of them lol
Good video. Eric O didn't show off any "moves" though - which are always exciting! You know, like the no handy reach-around, the no-look confusion maker, sewing buttons on his underwear, tricks grandma told him, the "Hey Mrs. O, smell my finger" move, etc....stuff like that. Hopefully we'll see some of those again in a video soon.
Need more techs like you in the UK 😊 another great video.
The uk techs do their best but when the cars y’all make are Land Rover and jaguar well only so much to be done there
There are plenty of good mechanics here, it’s sorting them out that’s the problem !
I’m curious about these electrically operated “parking brakes” I’ve only ever had mechanical handbrakes and I know how they work.
There's definitely some very talented techs here in the UK but alot of garages including main dealers will play parts darts or load the cannon. I've always watched SMA videos and been impressed with how the fault is diagnosed. I'm a tech myself and have learnt alot from this channel. some people I work along side don't even know how to apply a test light into a diagnostic procedure.
Hi there OP this video is awesome! I learned a lot from you. Thank you for this
I like the way you follow the power flow. You are sounding much better
I learned something today plus this is why new cars are so expensive.
I wanted to see if there was any special procedure to set up the motor, IE, clocking it, etc. Asked and answered! Thx Mr. O!
Nice work again Mr O. I keep a list of terrible "features" that I give to people who are looking to buy a car. It quickly eliminates about 3/4 of the cars LOL.
Stay gold.
Mr. O. Thanks for the run thru with the fancy electronic gear. Been mechanicing for 56yrs, so I am old school and all I can say is WOW! . My 98 Yukon w/ 325,000miles and rust had a rough running issue one day. I tried to isolate the problem by disconnecting electrical components under the hood. The easiest one was the MAF, so I did it first. The engine sped up. When I plugged it back in problem was fixt. Speaking w/ a local repair shop owner about it, he told me to replace every sensor under the hood. They get old and go bad, he said. -OR- buy a bottle of Stabilant 22A to deoxidize the contacts. 3/4 oz bottle cost $45. I was wondering why Fix Or Repair Daily didn't use ECG in that Metri-Pack? Designed obsolesce? 109,598 on the odo and a wire is green in a Metri-Pack? After I cleaned my MAF connection w/ Stabilant I put Electrical Connection Grease in my Weather Pack it to keep it from oxidizing any more. SoFar So Good. ben/ michigan
Damn, can't even leave the park brake cable alone? 200.00 a side + labor. Thanks for letting me hang out with you while ya work Eric O.
#1). E. O. Do ya know of a Mechanic / Technician in San Jose California that's as GOOD as You Are???? #2). I am stoked that you actually put those Rubber Plugs back on the Caliper Slide Pins 👍🏼. #3). That Job at FORD is Like $800.00 Thankfully you do the right thing and treat folks like you would want to be treated. Great Job, and it IS FIXED!!!! Alway's enjoy watching your approach to a final Repair and Fix.
Surprised you didn't apply some dielectric grease like the old Dow-Corning DC-4 to the connectors when you re-assembled them. That is the first thing I do before re-connecting any plug/jack I open up. Just prevents future problems for me. Of course I keep my vehicles for a long time, Pick-up is 19 years old and like any GM product the rust causing issues caused by the Michigan salt like you have.
I totally agree. You can use any dielectric grease just put a good gob in the connector before you mate it. It will keep the water and air out which causes the corrosion. You should do it on every connector you unplug before reconnecting it again. You will have fewer returns as well. Yes I am from the PRNY salt belt too!🤣
I seen a wire for the rear abs corrode in under 5k miles, less than a year old. Idk why or how but a small pin hole was all I saw. Thankfully ford has a pig tail kit, so i didn't have to replace the whole harness ( corroded at the big rear harness, not that smaller one)
Nice work. Like your sense of humor!
Thanks, Eric, for your play-by-play diagnosis, Very good
WHY? Why do these manufacturers think we need this when a cable type system has been working forever? Not everything needs to be electronic! Great job on the repair!
Your work smarter not harder…..Is my Life’s mission 🤟🏻🇺🇸
You and Mark Dice (and Scotty!) are the only videos I watch every single time. I like Scotty!!!! Don't hate me.
Another adventure with a happy ending. Green crusty chasing is the culprit.
Thanks again brother, that's why I like the old cable park brakes ! We sold are 2015 edge back to the dealership we bought it after 1 yr. 😂
"The bigger the glob, the better the job". Got to remember that one. 😄
I would be happier with a standard parking brake handle and cable to actuate the parking brakes. It's cheaper and more reliable. It's a smart idea to replace the motor with the harness because you don't need call backs. If I was doing it on my own car I would replace the harness and clean the contacts and test the motor and keep it if it was still working.
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I would have also fixed the harness for couple bucks
You obviously don't live in upstate New York. Parking brake cables don't last long here. The salt either eats them up or the rust binds them.
@@donmunro144 That's a lack of maintenance. Living in a salt zone you have to take care of the underside. There's plenty of spray on solutions: Krown, Fluid Film, Surface Shield, etc.
@@TheOtherBill they help but they're not a cure all.
Hi Eric, Not cheap I could replace the whole cable system for that amount, but the labor would be more$$. I'll stick with cables for now or as long as I can. Good piece Eric, Thanks!
Assuming they’re available. Parking brake cables that are worth a crap are getting hard to find on a lot of cars. Dorman or China crap will fail within 6 months, not even worth installing
Used to be when I was a tech at gm, gm used a group number system to list their parts, once you learned how the numbering system worked, it made finding parts easy. Say you needed a part for Chevy, and it wasn't in stock. You could go to the group numbers and find the same part, but for a different Carline, say Pontiac, Oldsmobile, Buick, ect. The same part that fit a Oldsmobile, would also fit a Cadillac, but would have a big price increase, even though it was the same part
Yup I can remember that from back in the 76 when I worked in a auto parts store
I can't stand these electric parking brakes! The 10 yo cable system in my F350 still works just fine even in the rust belt. Thx for the video. Eric 👍 keep em coming!
I hear you, but the epb also eliminates the entire drum-in-a-disk and all of the associated actuator parts. I've never like working on rear brakes. In this case, better connectors would have probably prevented all the problems.
Record high temp in Avoca today. That's always fun. :(
Earn as you learn , that was my motto for 45 plus years of wrenching. Engineers and manufacturers have a way of doing that , just as you think you know something they change the game. I’ve always thought if the parts are readily available, it’s a problem they have with that part. Speaking of Ford parts in strange places to look up , once I was doing a water pump on a Tempo , the “ O” ring on the pipe at back of motor was not only eluding me , the dealer couldn’t find it. Turned out Ford called the “O” ring a piston , no wonder we couldn’t find it
Ah, the Tempo! And it’s cousin the Mercury Topaz. Extremely rare to see those nowadays.
I've been subscribed so long I remember when the Verus was all Eric used!
And even though theyve eliminated the rusty cables, the electric parking brake is STILL susceptible to the same water rust crud and green crusties as the old cable system, one would thing the plugs would at least use GM's weather pack connectors that seal out the environment - same problems in electrical parts instead of mechanical parts, gee what an improvement. Makes me wonder what one does if the motor locks onto to the rotor then the motor itself dies with no way to release it, what then-?? Great work GM.
The movie - 'Never There', the next day comment took me there. There are three cables on my 92 D-350, one broke. I like the simple mechanical's of a cable, but this was a lot easier repair. You have to pull the axle to get at the cable end in the wheel.
Hi buddy.. having the right tools always helps ... Great job for this customer.. Can you please put on your safety glasses when you work on the vehicle I don't want you getting anything into your eyes 👀👀👀 .. Have a great weekend and I enjoy watching THE DOCTOR at work and remember if i can do it you can do it .. Your friend THE BANDIT AKA BOB from Illinois..
Great job . I enjoy watching your videos . I have never heard about electric parking brakes. I have a 2018 Toyota Rav 4 with a hand brake. I change my air and cabin filters and that's about it. Toyota changes the oil for me . I guess I will stay with Toyota . Blessings from South Florida.
" Remember when parking brakes had cables" lol Just inspected a 2022 trailblazer.
GM has put electronic park brake on the front axle. What will they do next. Great job as always.
Put them on all four wheels
Great job as usual and I did especially like hearing that you take care of your tools.
Whenever I hear you say, “that’s interesting…”. It’s like a big question mark pops into my head. 😊
😁
Great video man
Oh Oh. I'm going to guess before watching. Broken wire in the harness about 6-8 inches away from the motor, terminals and wiring corroded, and some green on the motor pins too. Had the same thing on the same side on essentially the same car a while back. Got a pigtail and a new motor and all was well. Edit: Yep! Harness is available now, but sadly a few years ago all I could get was a pigtail from Standard. A tip on dirt packed connectors, water is an excellent solvent for dirt and salt!
Nice video and diagnosis. I don’t know which system works better with all the road salt in the PRNY.
Allen wernches?? I use Bondhus "Hex" wrenches. Both are brand names. Looks like Allen works well. In 1909-1910, William G. Allen also patented a method of cold-forming screw heads around a hexagonal die (U.S. Patent 960,244). I used to work for Danaher Tool Group designing sockets. (A little Trivia about such a common tool)
My 18 f150 had this happen randomly while coming home from trades school. Ended up being a bad wire near the right rear park brake actuator. I crawled underneath seen a suspect spot in the wire loom. Gave one wire the ol tug test it was good gave the other one a tug test and with absolute no effort it broke. Didn’t get the chance to film the money shot.
I figured out which wire was the issue with a simple voltage loss test. Had almost battery voltage of loss on one of the wires.
Green Crusty stuff means it done, Something I learned that lesson during my car audio repair days.
In the UK the Nissan qashqi has motors on the back an the tiny bolts just round off. They are a nightmare to get off. You were lucky with the Ford.
I have a VW Jetta, my local parts store had a 9mm heli-coil kit (I think my brakes use the same slide pin as Ford)
9mm is a very odd size, I'm really surprised a local parts place had that in stock!
We’re looking at a master at his craft 😮
I knew we would arrive to this point where the electric parking brake was another item added to the list of items that will fails prematurely . Electric parking brakes... a solution to a problem that never existed!!!
I call that a solution in search of a problem!
@@stevebell4906 it's probably more accurate to call the EPB a solution to create problems.
Great place to put a connector at the top of the wheel arch ,it's a wonder that one wasn't corroded too !
Good Job Boss. I had no ideas there was such a thing on any auto, I still trap the tires when working on a car or truck when I need to jack it up.
Still trying to figure how EE park brakes are a cost savings over cables. Makes no sense. Maybe assembly labor. Eric, this job was a nicer finish than that reaccuring EE issue you had on the F250 pickup. At the end you were so pissed off you didn't end with your classic lines. Your still #1 of all the on line boys, especially our favorite band leader Scotty K😅
Great work as always. Torx, Allen, same thing
There is an optional way to test if you can get to the wires of working electric parking brake motor, such that you can get a PicoScope current clamp around one of the wires, and take a scope single shot of the current waveforms when actuating the motor. You can then better understand the functional unit test in terms of currents to compare to the non-working side.
If the motor is a brushed DC motor you should be able to actuate it on the bench with a DC Power Supply, first one direction and then in the other. The module drive circuitry is probably a Protected Semiconductor Switch H-Bridge using 12VDC supply with a current sense circuit.
I wonder if there is some kind if worm drive mechanism inside of the parking brake, I doubt that it has power going to it while the brake is on.
My dads Avensis has one of these electric parking brakes. Its an automatic as well. I miss having a regular handbrake. Although fair play in 10 years its had no issues.
Thanks for posting this one Eric O great job as usual ☺️👍❤️❤️ it, well done. Take care of yourself and family and be Blessed ❤️❤️👍.
Keep working on those Fords, you'll be a certified Ford mechanic in no-time! 😆
Always informative Mr o!
In the connectors to the new motor would a little squeeze of dielectric grease be a good idea as a water/road salt barrier ?
Omitted to allow for non-constructive criticism. Mrs O may suspend his excavator privileges🤔
That's why I like driving my 03 Carrolla not that much electronical crap like ABS malfunction etc.
Like always another great job brother keep up the good work
This happened on my left hand side rear brake about 2 years ago after doing a simple resistance check.
Now it's happening on the right hand side I'm going to do a test again perhaps even just repair the line instead of buying a new one more cost-effective might break down again though. I noticed you didn't isolate the motor but simply replace it
Good fix, those pesky crusty emf conductors and transfer devices sure can cause issues
Another great job. The best mechanic going
Great video! Does anyone know of a video explaining how to set up a parking brake for a 2016 Ford Explorer with the wind in integrated parking brake?
Eric O’…Great job for sure! What do you think of these Extended Warranty Services? Do you work with these companies if your customer has this coverage??
Good job, didn't need a wiring diagram ...this time.
Nice fix Mr. O.
The owner said they never used it, but it gets applied every time you shut off and get out (at least the e-brake on the 2016 Buick does).
What are your thoughts on using the electronics cleaner that's safe for electrical connections? I've used it with no problems.
Nice work Eric, no wonder everything is so screwed up, because the computer tells it what to do..
Another interesting fix by Eric the Magician....
Any exterior electrical connection work I do I use NYK 77 grease on the terminals. Never had a connection corrode again. A must in the salt belt.
Im glad you mentioned why you changed the motor as well, I was wondering if the old one would work with just a harness change.
Thumbs up! Question - if you didnt have a tool to invoke the self-calibration, would it learn by itself after some usage?