I used a motorized camera slider for the opening shot and when I went back and watched the video with headphones on there is a horrible hum. I am very sorry about that. I think I had the belt too tight. I will make sure not to do that again. Sorry Yall!
Overheating issues ('83 Hobbit) have brought me to this video. Stocko shocko kit, Boysen reeds, VM20 w/enlarged intake, and Jammy pipe. Currently running stock CDI, 160 jet, and BR6 plug. I overheat at 410 F! Gonna be trying to swap to a BR8 ug, upjet, and then will be attempting the timing adjustments
I learned to do this from owning a motobecane. Protip to you corn viewers, the taper and mounting are the same for express ignitions. So grab a cheap oem cdi and time them with this method and enjoy your 12v lights and cdi
Use a key to protect the taper on the crank. Use a flywheel with an external trigger and pickup then slot the flywheel and use three bolts to secure it.
@@tytipps6750 they will work. Although I don't know if the wires are the same. I believe the nc50 are 12v CDI. So much better but won't work without rewiring.
hi buddy if i do this with my pw80 would it be rotating the flywheel with a 4 degree key the way the engine rotates or away not the stator but i mean the flywheel obviopusly with doing an advance by timing key really realllyyy confused keep switching on which way i think it is
I bought a motorized camera slider. I am not sure if I will actually use it for much. Maybe a time lapse or something? I really like it, but I dont think its very practical for my videos.
It doesn't need a woodruff key. The taper keeps it locked in place. The woodruff key is only if you ware setting up a stock ignition at stock timing. A lot of aftermarket ignitions need custom timing.
What do you run for jetting? I just installed a vm20 on my hobbit 70cc 7 port, proma pipe, mlm intake . It just bogs at WOT regardless of main jet size. I've tried 140-180. It acts choked up and then will backfire in the pipe. That's what has me thinking my timing is whack or something. Great acceleration. Do these have some form of rev limiter? Mines 1983.
Is that the ignition timing for Puch chart you're using? It won't quite match up for hobbits, due to the different stroke (39.6mm vs 43mm) / conrod length (80mm vs 90mm). I haven't done the math to see how much they diverge at 1.5mm BTDC though.
he took that out so he could change the stock timing.. personally i would cut a new slot so the crank dont end up spinning on the fly wheel and ruin it.
Look at 3:00. I take the flywheel off and you can see the pickup. It is not points like the earlier Hobbits. The 83 came with a CDI and you can swap the CDI box for a Jog box to get a nice ignition curve
@@Corn-ped Learned something new, in Belgium they do not have a cdi, only contacts. They were all build in Aalst (Belgium) so they designed the US spec differently, we also don't have the single reed slot for the slower version. Keep up the great work. I am doing some repairs now, later this year I do a roadtrip to Italie of some 3200km or 2000miles. I use a magnet, hallsensor and a tip42c transistor for ignition.
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I used a motorized camera slider for the opening shot and when I went back and watched the video with headphones on there is a horrible hum. I am very sorry about that. I think I had the belt too tight. I will make sure not to do that again. Sorry Yall!
I thought it was part of the music lol
Overheating issues ('83 Hobbit) have brought me to this video. Stocko shocko kit, Boysen reeds, VM20 w/enlarged intake, and Jammy pipe. Currently running stock CDI, 160 jet, and BR6 plug. I overheat at 410 F! Gonna be trying to swap to a BR8 ug, upjet, and then will be attempting the timing adjustments
I would check out your timing. and maybe upgrade your head to the Derbi head. ruclips.net/video/Czy-QvjIEeA/видео.html
I learned to do this from owning a motobecane. Protip to you corn viewers, the taper and mounting are the same for express ignitions. So grab a cheap oem cdi and time them with this method and enjoy your 12v lights and cdi
Oh thats awesome! I did not know that! Pair em with a jog box with a curve and you got a bangin setup!
Use a key to protect the taper on the crank.
Use a flywheel with an external trigger and pickup then slot the flywheel and use three bolts to secure it.
Hello,
thank you for video! May I ask why you wanted to go from 17 to 22 degrees?
Thanks
Alen
what was this timing chart you referenced? looks handy! thanks for the vid this was perfect!
New to moped world. Rebuilding two hobbits 78 and 81. I need to find flywheels and stators for both. What will work can find own.
You could buy new cdis from treatland.tv or post a want to buy in the hobbit Facebook group.
@@Corn-ped sorry for sums questions. Only thing I found on treats was a 3 wire. Electric diagrams show 4wire.
Yeah those might require some rewiring. You could find stock ones on ebay
@@Corn-ped will NC50 interchange with the PA50
@@tytipps6750 they will work. Although I don't know if the wires are the same. I believe the nc50 are 12v CDI. So much better but won't work without rewiring.
hi buddy if i do this with my pw80 would it be rotating the flywheel with a 4 degree key the way the engine rotates or away not the stator but i mean the flywheel obviopusly with doing an advance by timing key really realllyyy confused keep switching on which way i think it is
Nice opening shot, did you use your lathe for that?
I bought a motorized camera slider. I am not sure if I will actually use it for much. Maybe a time lapse or something? I really like it, but I dont think its very practical for my videos.
how does it work witouth a woodruff key ? i have a couple hobbits myself and i have never seen this before
It doesn't need a woodruff key. The taper keeps it locked in place. The woodruff key is only if you ware setting up a stock ignition at stock timing. A lot of aftermarket ignitions need custom timing.
@@Corn-ped oh that’s nice, I did not know this. Thanks
What do you run for jetting? I just installed a vm20 on my hobbit 70cc 7 port, proma pipe, mlm intake . It just bogs at WOT regardless of main jet size. I've tried 140-180. It acts choked up and then will backfire in the pipe. That's what has me thinking my timing is whack or something. Great acceleration. Do these have some form of rev limiter? Mines 1983.
Is that the ignition timing for Puch chart you're using? It won't quite match up for hobbits, due to the different stroke (39.6mm vs 43mm) / conrod length (80mm vs 90mm). I haven't done the math to see how much they diverge at 1.5mm BTDC though.
It is not. I made a hobbit version. I also put a link to it in the description.
@@Corn-ped rad, thanks!
Woodruff key?
he took that out so he could change the stock timing.. personally i would cut a new slot so the crank dont end up spinning on the fly wheel and ruin it.
Cristia
I would rather do it differently with the footplate or zoo and flywheel in place or the pick up of the CDI
This thing has no cdi 🤣
Look at 3:00. I take the flywheel off and you can see the pickup. It is not points like the earlier Hobbits. The 83 came with a CDI and you can swap the CDI box for a Jog box to get a nice ignition curve
@@Corn-ped Learned something new, in Belgium they do not have a cdi, only contacts. They were all build in Aalst (Belgium) so they designed the US spec differently, we also don't have the single reed slot for the slower version. Keep up the great work. I am doing some repairs now, later this year I do a roadtrip to Italie of some 3200km or 2000miles. I use a magnet, hallsensor and a tip42c transistor for ignition.
The CDI is rare here as well. It is on on the 1983 model. It is 12v and has no curve. But it's robust and you can change the box!
Most people use an HPI CDI here