Thanks Dave for reply about British built 444 tractor manual. Glad to say I found one from 'FarmmanualsFast" only it's for an international 364 which is the American equivalent of the British 444. Just saying this so that anybody else with this 444 can get a proper parts manual (includes electrical diagrams as well) The American 444 is something quite different from mine, so don't be fooled by that as I was.
G day Dave, I have never done a broken axle but have had customers bring in a few broken brake housings where they tried to get the rear brake palate out with the bull gear still in the road lol.
Hi BB, always good to see you drop by. :) I've seen those broken brake housings for the same reason, often times a decent manual will save their cost many times over. Have a great one and thanks for dropping by!
Dave she's alive 1st turn abit of knock in on the tappets but I'll set them again Dave never done anything like this in my life and I have the bug I have an 1980 684 and now the 275 is alive nice one Dave
I'm stuck I just replace my head gasket and need to set the tappets what size feeler gauge do I use and the order I set them at on my 275 it's all beteew me and start up thanks if you can help me out on this
If you check out my series titles "IH 444 engine rebuild" specifically video 8 ruclips.net/user/edit?o=U&video_id=Zalwq3tstRQ it will give you the run down. Good luck!
I’m just trying to replace an leaky axle seal on my 354...do I have to take hydraulic unit off and pull axle to do this? I’ve got the 4 bolts and the seal cover off
Dave, this question is not about the rear axle but hope you can help. My B275 has crappy working hydraulics, bucket will not lift much, 3 point hitch will not lift much anymore, lift the 3 point hitch lever and bucket lifts some, will not hold implements up (drop within a minute). An old fella told me that I may be using the wrong type of hydraulic fluid. I just use a Na p a fluid. My manual says to use SAE 20 motor oil for fluid in the hydraulic system. Is that true? Should I change out the hydraulic fluid to 20 weight motor oil? Hope to get some of your wisdom for my story in fixing my hydraulic issues. Thanks, halscamp
Regular hydraulic oil should be fine although the later manuals call for CaseIH Hytran fluid. A little twitch up of the loader is normal with this system when you raise your 3PH because of the way the oil is routed. With both the loader and 3PH being weak it would seem to me that your hydraulic pump is getting worn out, especially if it is worse once the oil warms up. Good luck and thanks for watching!
I am doing the broken axle on a IH 3414. The broken stub is behind inside bearing. Looks like separating the axle tube from the case may be required to remove stub ? Got any tricks up there? , before all the disassembly starts. Can send some links if needed, to see my question.
Normally the broken bit of axle will be left in the bull gear on the inside. If there is some left in the bearing you will have to drive it out through from the inside, you may have to pull the axle housing off to have enough room. In my experience they always break between the bull gear and the bearing.
Hi Dave,I’ve a b414 and the lift arms won’t work correctly.Even without moving the lever to raise,they go up themselves.The only way I can get them back down is by standing on them.Any ideas on what could be wrong ?
It sounds like there is some kind of restriction in the system that puts pressure to the cylinder when it's not supposed to. Check the unloading valve and there is also a little brass screen in the front of the valve body. You can get a parts picture at partstore.caseih.com/us/index.html?csid=30acf66ef7eaca95305833cb3d098e13&sl=EN¤cy= click on the "Find parts by model" button on the top of the page and enter B414 for the complete parts manual. Thanks for watching!
Thanks Dave for all the info, in videos. I have a British built 444 (1968). I'm trying to find an electrical print so I can change old generator for an alternator. Do you know where I might find such a diagram? Darwin
Is a 424 international the same way? I have a rear axle seal leaking on mine and i also can't find a new seal for it online anywhere. Any advice u could give me would be greatly appreciated
Nice informative video without alot of fluff, nice job. I have a 1953 Super C that is needing a rear axle seal replacement, any suggestions would be appreciated. Have a great day.
Thank you, I am glad you enjoyed the video. A super C axle seal is pretty easy, you'll have to release the clamp and pull the wheel hub, then the seal retainer is held on with 4 bolts. Slide the retainer off, replace the seal and re-assemble in reverse order. Thanks for watching!
Hi I need to replace the seal on the mower bar PTO shaft of my IHC Mc Cormick BD434 - the one right behind and under the clutch used to power a cutter bar.... I have a gear oil leak in there that ammounts to abaut a espresso cup a week, now i got this tractor cheap and without prior history , so it is possible the mower bar got crashed somewhere or that it got just completely worn out, possibly left on by accident during other work, I bet the bearing and seals are shot, i can feel 1.5mm of sideways play on the shaft and crunchy bearings, every touch to it maks droplets of oil run out and down the housing... i do not have a parts catalog for the 434 and its 70 bucks for a piece of paper therefor I gotta ask what bearings and seals are required for fixing that and where i gotta split open the tractor for the required acess? Between motor and the clutch housing or between clutch housing and gearbox?
If you park the tractor with the back up an incline you should be able to take the seal retainer off the back without spilling oil. There is likely a felt dirt seal there along with a regular lip seal, the felts are not available that I know of but the lip seal is, just reuse the felt. Thanks for watching!
For a 684 you don't have to get into the differential case, just unbolt the axle housing from the differential case and the axle comes out with the housing. I have a video showing the process here ruclips.net/video/yKRVcPHcazA/видео.html&list=PLTZSkooohOVHL0I86_aLWuPWUapiG8ChK&index=5 Thanks for watching!
Hi Dave I’ve got an I-H 475 with a couple of problems. Hydraulic Arms lift and lower but don’t lift high enough to release the draw bar hook. I’ve got a half shaft oil seal gone is it the same procedure as in your for 414 etc or is it a different way of doing Thank you Dave
I am not familiar with a 475 so I can't help with the oil seal. Usually there are multiple mounting holes for the front of the lift arms to provide different lift heights and the vertical arms usually have adjustment to them to give more lift. Thanks for watching!
I have an IH 404 1963 that appears similar to the one you are working on. I need to replace the axle seals but can not get the hub off. So want to will pull the axle instead leaving the hub on. Do you know if my 404 axle will come out like yours? Any else I should watch out for?
I really don't know much about the 404s, there weren't hardly any in Canada. They were US made and the 275s etc were British tractors so nothing in common. Thanks for watching!
Great videos I’m new to tractors and I have a 1961 B275 and the 3 point hitch seems to drop and won’t remain in position. Seeing that you have a great wealth of knowledge on these tractors what would be causing this? Thanks
The 275 has a simple lift/lower valve rather than position control. There should be a little catch in the center to hold the valve in the "hold" position, make sure that is holding correctly. The valve may also be leaking by. Thanks for watching!
Hello, great videos!! Thanks! In my 444, in the linkage of the Top Link there is a broken "stiff spring". This spring comes out without taking off the "hydraulic unit"? in this video I see another spring inside the hydraulic unit... so I think not. thanks in advance
That spring is for the draft control part of your lift unit and cannot be replaced without lifting the unit off. Unless you are plowing a lot of ground don't worry about it, it isn't necessary for the operation of the lift unit. Thanks, for watching!
I don't have a video on that as yet, but will add that to the list. I am stripping out a B414 which is the same transmission/rear end as the 444 and will make some videos with it.
Yeah, it will need to be pressed off. It can be done with a couple of flat bars over some blocks and a sledge hammer. Put a 2x4 or similar over the end of the axle so as not to damage it. Thanks for watching!
If one axle is broke possible to move the tractor with the differential lock in to power the left-hand wheel, that seems to be the case with my 275. Just wondering if it’s a broken axle or some thing else, there was no clunk or any noise when it stopped working.
That sounds like a broken axle for sure. Don't drive it around like that though, it can drive the bull gear down through the bottom of the case and ruin the diff case. Thanks for watching!
For the inner axle bearings you first pull the axles, then remove the axle housing, remove the lock ring, and you can drive out the bearing with a long rod from the outer end of the housing. Thanks for watching!
I want 4 glow plug for my mahindra 275 international in India the glow not manufacturers so can you guide me what to do or you have any suggestions for that
Hey Dave, great helpful videos! So... my 434 often wanted to not release fully when clutch was pressed, wanted to creep especially in 1st gear when cold, seemed to get better when warmer. You could not take the shifter out of gear either without releasing the hi/lo shifter. Then you could release the shifter. Sometimes it would NOT stick, sometimes it would. Popping the clutch would sometimes release it too. Well, I guess I popped it one too many times. I hear a clunk and now I am going nowhere. PTO still runs, seems like the gears in tranny are still moving but wheels will not turn. I can hear engine change when I release the clutch slightly so I think the gears are still intact. I think, like you say in this video, that I have broke an axle. I do my own stuff but I am not set up to do this. SO my questions are: what do you think was causing it to stick in gear, is it worth fixing, what is your best guess to all that needs to be done and do you want the job? The brakes also stick on when depressed. Can you give me an email address and we can discuss? Thanks for the help.
If the PTO would release but the transmission would not then the clutch likely needs replaced. As for the new problem, it does sound like it could be and axle for sure. You can reach me at sales@chowntractorparts.com Thanks for watching!
Press the dif lock pedal, if the tractor will move it's pretty much got to be the axle. DO NOT drive the tractor anywhere with the dif lock pedal and a broken axle, it can push the bull gear through the bottom of the case, just enough to see that the tractor will move. Axles run $400 and are fairly heavy.
Im slowly restoring a d434, were on the internet are you finding you can get parts from for these tractors. A & I products doesn't list a whole lot for them.
A&I has a little bit of stuff (check under B414), but Sparex has more, again check under B414 for morfe stuff. The 434 has a different steering box so the 414 kit won't work for you. Thanks for watching!
Greetings from Kenya. What's the size of that axle? diameter and length. I'm building a plastic extruder and I'm having a problem finding the material to lathe the screw from. buying from the hardware is quite expensive since they only sell full lengths(6 metres) yet I only need a metre. do you mind sharing the dimensions?
Hi Dave, Thanks for the video, it was timely for me. I have a 1968 444 and been thinking of replacing the rear oil seals this winter but I didn't know the procedure of the removal of the axels. My 1st question is when removing the PTO shaft is there any retainers that keep the front end of the shaft in place that I need to know about, and 2nd question, when reinstalling the bolts that go through the center of the Bull Gears to the axel what are the torque specs if any, or would that be " as tight as a 4 foot breaker bar can get it " I got a quote from the IH/Case tractor shop near me and they wanted up to $2000 to do the repair. I thought that was a little excessive but it was on the high end price quote. Thanks!
The front PTO shaft has a pilot and the rear has a hole that slides over the pilot to hold it in place in the differential case. I will check on the torque for the rear axle bolt. This is definitely a job that can save you some $$$ to do it yourself! Good luck and thanks for watching!
Lol, well thanks for checking into that, I guess when I remove it I will use a torque wrench and see how tight it was and use that as my reference. Thanks again for the uploads, I look forward to the 444 vids.
Hi Dave, I'm finally getting started on the grease seal replacement, what I'm not sure about is the plumbing connected to the hydraulic unit. Do I just start removing bolts and pulling whatever is connected to the plumbing out, or is there a procedure and being careful or just start pulling and just go for it. If I get to a questionable spot can I email you a picture for clarity so you can see what step I'm at.
Hi Dale, it's probably best to drain the hydraulic unit through the drain plug at the back the you just unhook the two hydraulic lines (feed and pressure), remove all the bolts and lift it off. It sits on two dowel pins so it takes a little coaxing to break it loose. Good luck. :)
Hello Dave. I have a B414 and need a new rear tire . I live in Dundalk Ontario. Where is a good spot to take the tractor tire, if you know of one. . All your videos are very informative and I enjoy watching them. I also need a tachometer for my B414. Someone stole the one out of my tractor. Any help would be appreciated.
You can check with a local tractor dealer for a recommendation, check with the local tire shops and there may be someone that would be able to come to you and change it for you right at home. The tach I can get turns counter clockwise, you will need to check because gas and diesel tachs turn opposite directions. I assume the tach I can get is for a diesel. I am glad that you enjoy my videos, I appreciate your support, thanks for watching!
Hello, good night, I have a 384 tractor that has no pressure, it does not raise its arms and I have to turn on the power take-off so that it returns and they tell us that it is problems with hydraulic valves but I know what they are, thanks, greetings.
I am not familiar with the 423 model, I don't think they got imported into Canada. I expect they would be a different design but there would be some similarities. Thanks for watching!
you say that a broken axle is common on these tractors but I worked at main IH dealer 40 years ago in Mid Wales UK and I cant remember any axle problems and I have good memory so can you explain what is problem
You have to consider that 414s are now 50+ years old so common ailments now may not have shown up when they were new, also in Canada a lot of these tractors have been used in forestry jobs that tend to be rougher than farm work. Thanks for watching!
ola,, nessecitava de reparar minha caixa de velocidadesdo 434,so engrena 3* e 4*,,,avaria na caixa,, como reparar???,tenho que desmontar veios??? ,,primario???,e secundario,??retirando??OBG
I used google translate so hopefully I have this straight. :) It's a big job to get into the transmission shafts of these tractors but this video will get you started on the way. ruclips.net/video/1sve9HaZMbk/видео.html Once you have the clutch housing removed you will have to remove the rear axles, bull gears and differential. Remove the lock rings and drive the bottom shaft back out so it will drop, then you can remove the top shafts and go from there. Good luck and thanks for watching!
B250 has a 5 speed single range transmission with a transmission driven PTO (not live). The rest of the series has 4 speed dual range transmission and live PTO. Thanks for watching!
I've not seen any of the 424s here in Canada, I think they were a mainly US tractor. I believe the transmission/rearend were the same though so would be the same process. Thanks for watching!
If you have removed the gears it's the same as a B414 etc like in this video ruclips.net/video/MAkU-yH2fw4/видео.html If you have just removed the pump there is no timing required just put the pump back in, it will line itself back up. Thanks for watching!
I have a 444 that the bull pinion gear I believe to be broken but still functioning. When the right brake stopped functioning I removed and cleaned the brake parts. During reassembly I noticed the bull pinion shaft spline spun freely when rotating the rake disc while on the spline that has the differental lock shaft going thru. my question is can u replace the bull pinion gear with out removing the lift casing accessing it they the exterior plate behind the brakes and on the differential housing? If you have any videos pertaining at all to this please post or email gterry@verizon.net Thanks Gary Terry
Hi Gary, this video is the closest I have to getting at the bull pinion shaft. You have to remove the rear axle on the side you are working on so you can move the bull gear back from the pinion shaft housing. On the end of the dif-lock shaft there is a collar you have to push in to expose a small lock ring, remove the lock ring and collar, remove the bolts on the bull pinion housing, then you can remove the bull pinion and housing to get the shaft out of the bull pinion housing. Good luck and thanks for watching!
Hello again from PORTUGAL!! im searching for the procedure to stop the oil leak to the brake pads on the 444. Yours videos help me a lot for rebuilding the engine last year after no oil pressure: new crankshaft, bearings, piston rings.... I have now to stop the left oil seal from leaking. Its a small leaking, I see a photo that exists a HOLE that forwards any oil that escape from the seal to away the brake pads: www.anglo-agriparts.com/bradford-built-international-harvester-major-brake-overhaul If I just clean this hole to stop this minor leak to reach the brakes you think that is enough ? Or should I dismantling the whole thing? :) Thanks in advance,
It is certainly worth a try to clean the weep hole because it is a pretty big job to get to the brake seal, you really don't have anything to lose by trying that first. I am glad that you found my videos helpful, my aim is to show that a lot of these jobs aren't really as scary as they first look. Thanks for watching!
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Many thanks. You showed me all the issues I had been having and the solutions.
Awesome, I'm glad I could help! Thanks for watching!
Thank you, that was a great video, mine just broke yesterday.
I'm sorry about your axle but I am glad you found the video helpful. Thanks for watching!
Someone told me that Canadians were cold weather Australians, or flip it, I now know what he meant, you guys are ace.
LOL, common roots I think. :) Thanks for watching!
Thanks Dave for reply about British built 444 tractor manual. Glad to say I found one from 'FarmmanualsFast" only it's for an international 364 which is the American equivalent of the British 444. Just saying this so that anybody else with this 444 can get a proper parts manual (includes electrical diagrams as well) The American 444 is something quite different from mine, so don't be fooled by that as I was.
Awesome, glad I could help.
Great video on this Topic
Thank you for sharing
Australia
I am glad you enjoyed the video, thanks for watching!
G day Dave, I have never done a broken axle but have had customers bring in a few broken brake housings where they tried to get the rear brake palate out with the bull gear still in the road lol.
Hi BB, always good to see you drop by. :) I've seen those broken brake housings for the same reason, often times a decent manual will save their cost many times over.
Have a great one and thanks for dropping by!
Bundy Bears Shed
Thanks I just inherited a one owner 414 with leaking axle seal just getting into it!!
I am glad you enjoyed the video, thanks for watching!
Getting ready to pull axle on the 424 no bolt on end it has a clip
Dave she's alive 1st turn abit of knock in on the tappets but I'll set them again Dave never done anything like this in my life and I have the bug I have an 1980 684 and now the 275 is alive nice one Dave
That's awesome buddy, I'm glad you were able to get i figured out! Feels good bringing something like that back to life doesn't it?
Awesome video's I have a 434 I have changed an axil going to refer to your channel next time I have a problem .
I am glad you found the video helpful, thanks for watching!
Nice video sir
I am glad you enjoyed the video, thanks for watching!
Olá, estou por aqui conhecendo um pouco mais da mecânica desses tratores antigos. Abraço!
I am glad you are enjoying the videos, thanks for watching!
Have a B275 whose hitch jerks when going up. Also the Hydraulic shocks. The hydraulic filter is clean. Do you have any idea what it could be.
I'm stuck I just replace my head gasket and need to set the tappets what size feeler gauge do I use and the order I set them at on my 275 it's all beteew me and start up thanks if you can help me out on this
If you check out my series titles "IH 444 engine rebuild" specifically video 8 ruclips.net/user/edit?o=U&video_id=Zalwq3tstRQ it will give you the run down. Good luck!
I’m just trying to replace an leaky axle seal on my 354...do I have to take hydraulic unit off and pull axle to do this? I’ve got the 4 bolts and the seal cover off
Yes, you have to pull the axle and press the bearing off the shaft. Thanks for watching!
Dave, this question is not about the rear axle but hope you can help. My B275 has crappy working hydraulics, bucket will not lift much, 3 point hitch will not lift much anymore, lift the 3 point hitch lever and bucket lifts some, will not hold implements up (drop within a minute). An old fella told me that I may be using the wrong type of hydraulic fluid. I just use a Na p a fluid. My manual says to use SAE 20 motor oil for fluid in the hydraulic system. Is that true? Should I change out the hydraulic fluid to 20 weight motor oil? Hope to get some of your wisdom for my story in fixing my hydraulic issues. Thanks, halscamp
Regular hydraulic oil should be fine although the later manuals call for CaseIH Hytran fluid. A little twitch up of the loader is normal with this system when you raise your 3PH because of the way the oil is routed. With both the loader and 3PH being weak it would seem to me that your hydraulic pump is getting worn out, especially if it is worse once the oil warms up. Good luck and thanks for watching!
Very good
I am glad you enjoyed the video, thanks for watching!
I am doing the broken axle on a IH 3414. The broken stub is behind inside bearing. Looks like separating the axle tube from the case may be required to remove stub ? Got any tricks up there? , before all the disassembly starts. Can send some links if needed, to see my question.
Normally the broken bit of axle will be left in the bull gear on the inside. If there is some left in the bearing you will have to drive it out through from the inside, you may have to pull the axle housing off to have enough room. In my experience they always break between the bull gear and the bearing.
Hi Dave,I’ve a b414 and the lift arms won’t work correctly.Even without moving the lever to raise,they go up themselves.The only way I can get them back down is by standing on them.Any ideas on what could be wrong ?
It sounds like there is some kind of restriction in the system that puts pressure to the cylinder when it's not supposed to. Check the unloading valve and there is also a little brass screen in the front of the valve body. You can get a parts picture at partstore.caseih.com/us/index.html?csid=30acf66ef7eaca95305833cb3d098e13&sl=EN¤cy= click on the "Find parts by model" button on the top of the page and enter B414 for the complete parts manual.
Thanks for watching!
Thanks Dave for all the info, in videos. I have a British built 444 (1968). I'm trying to find an electrical print so I can change old generator for an alternator. Do you know where I might find such a diagram? Darwin
I am not aware of such a diagram, around here we use a Delco one wire alternator so it's a pretty easy swap.
Thanks for watching!
Is a 424 international the same way? I have a rear axle seal leaking on mine and i also can't find a new seal for it online anywhere. Any advice u could give me would be greatly appreciated
I believe the 424 is much the same. THe only place I've found those axle seals is from a CaseIH dealer.
Thanks for watching!
Thanks.
Happy to help, I hope you get it sorted out. :)
Nice informative video without alot of fluff, nice job. I have a 1953 Super C that is needing a rear axle seal replacement, any suggestions would be appreciated. Have a great day.
Thank you, I am glad you enjoyed the video.
A super C axle seal is pretty easy, you'll have to release the clamp and pull the wheel hub, then the seal retainer is held on with 4 bolts. Slide the retainer off, replace the seal and re-assemble in reverse order.
Thanks for watching!
Thank you, sir, for your quick response. Easy is good. Have a nice evening!
Hi I need to replace the seal on the mower bar PTO shaft of my IHC Mc Cormick BD434 - the one right behind and under the clutch used to power a
cutter bar....
I have a gear oil leak in there that ammounts to abaut a espresso cup a week, now i got this tractor cheap and without prior history , so it is possible the mower bar got crashed somewhere or that it got just completely worn out, possibly left on by accident during other work, I bet the bearing and seals are shot, i can feel 1.5mm of sideways play on the shaft and crunchy bearings, every touch to it maks droplets of oil run out and down the housing... i do not have a parts catalog for the 434 and its 70 bucks for a piece of paper therefor I gotta ask what bearings and seals are required for fixing that and where i gotta split open the tractor for the required acess? Between motor and the clutch housing or between clutch housing and gearbox?
If you park the tractor with the back up an incline you should be able to take the seal retainer off the back without spilling oil. There is likely a felt dirt seal there along with a regular lip seal, the felts are not available that I know of but the lip seal is, just reuse the felt. Thanks for watching!
would the procedure be the same for an 83 684? I think the axle is broken,
For a 684 you don't have to get into the differential case, just unbolt the axle housing from the differential case and the axle comes out with the housing. I have a video showing the process here ruclips.net/video/yKRVcPHcazA/видео.html&list=PLTZSkooohOVHL0I86_aLWuPWUapiG8ChK&index=5
Thanks for watching!
Was wondering will a swinging drawbar from a 444 fit a 1963 B414. We’re needing one for ours. Thanks again. Love the channel and all the help.
Yes, they use the same drawbar. Thanks for watching!
Thank you!
Hi Dave I’ve got an I-H 475 with a couple of problems.
Hydraulic Arms lift and lower but don’t lift high enough to release the draw bar hook.
I’ve got a half shaft oil seal gone is it the same procedure as in your for 414 etc or is it a different way of doing
Thank you
Dave
I am not familiar with a 475 so I can't help with the oil seal. Usually there are multiple mounting holes for the front of the lift arms to provide different lift heights and the vertical arms usually have adjustment to them to give more lift. Thanks for watching!
I have an IH 404 1963 that appears similar to the one you are working on. I need to replace the axle seals but can not get the hub off. So want to will pull the axle instead leaving the hub on. Do you know if my 404 axle will come out like yours? Any else I should watch out for?
I really don't know much about the 404s, there weren't hardly any in Canada. They were US made and the 275s etc were British tractors so nothing in common. Thanks for watching!
Great videos
I’m new to tractors and I have a 1961 B275 and the 3 point hitch seems to drop and won’t remain in position.
Seeing that you have a great wealth of knowledge on these tractors what would be causing this?
Thanks
The 275 has a simple lift/lower valve rather than position control. There should be a little catch in the center to hold the valve in the "hold" position, make sure that is holding correctly. The valve may also be leaking by. Thanks for watching!
Hello, great videos!! Thanks! In my 444, in the linkage of the Top Link there is a broken "stiff spring". This spring comes out without taking off the "hydraulic unit"?
in this video I see another spring inside the hydraulic unit... so I think not.
thanks in advance
That spring is for the draft control part of your lift unit and cannot be replaced without lifting the unit off. Unless you are plowing a lot of ground don't worry about it, it isn't necessary for the operation of the lift unit. Thanks, for watching!
Thank you very much! That Will Stay for the Next year, when i Change the brake oil seal that is leaking... Do you have some vídeo of that seal fix?
I don't have a video on that as yet, but will add that to the list. I am stripping out a B414 which is the same transmission/rear end as the 444 and will make some videos with it.
Thanks!!
Regards from Portugal
I took the rear axle out, but the ball bearing stayed on the axle do you have some tricks to get that off?
Yeah, it will need to be pressed off. It can be done with a couple of flat bars over some blocks and a sledge hammer. Put a 2x4 or similar over the end of the axle so as not to damage it. Thanks for watching!
If one axle is broke possible to move the tractor with the differential lock in to power the left-hand wheel, that seems to be the case with my 275. Just wondering if it’s a broken axle or some thing else, there was no clunk or any noise when it stopped working.
That sounds like a broken axle for sure. Don't drive it around like that though, it can drive the bull gear down through the bottom of the case and ruin the diff case. Thanks for watching!
@@CanadianRedneck15 thanks, it’s in the shop now getting ready to take it apart
good
Glad you enjoyed the video, thanks for watching!
Did you ever replace the bearings in the axles? If so how much of a pain was it to do the inner bearing? I have 6213 and 6212 as bearing numbers.
For the inner axle bearings you first pull the axles, then remove the axle housing, remove the lock ring, and you can drive out the bearing with a long rod from the outer end of the housing. Thanks for watching!
Awesome serie my friend! Can you confirm me if the 434 gas was 6 volt pr 12 volt ?
434s came 12V from factory.
I am glad you enjoy the videos, thanks for watching!
I want 4 glow plug for my mahindra 275 international in India the glow not manufacturers so can you guide me what to do or you have any suggestions for that
If you can find someone that sells Sparex parts they should be able to get glow plugs for you. Thanks for watching!
i believe merceyties? benns makes 12 volt glo plugs that fit.
Nearly the same as the 423,i have the problem that the bearing stays on the axle-shaft,he d'ont want to move
You may have to take the axle out with the bearing and have the bearing pressed off in a press.
Hey Dave, great helpful videos! So... my 434 often wanted to not release fully when clutch was pressed, wanted to creep especially in 1st gear when cold, seemed to get better when warmer. You could not take the shifter out of gear either without releasing the hi/lo shifter. Then you could release the shifter. Sometimes it would NOT stick, sometimes it would. Popping the clutch would sometimes release it too. Well, I guess I popped it one too many times. I hear a clunk and now I am going nowhere. PTO still runs, seems like the gears in tranny are still moving but wheels will not turn. I can hear engine change when I release the clutch slightly so I think the gears are still intact. I think, like you say in this video, that I have broke an axle. I do my own stuff but I am not set up to do this. SO my questions are: what do you think was causing it to stick in gear, is it worth fixing, what is your best guess to all that needs to be done and do you want the job? The brakes also stick on when depressed. Can you give me an email address and we can discuss? Thanks for the help.
If the PTO would release but the transmission would not then the clutch likely needs replaced. As for the new problem, it does sound like it could be and axle for sure. You can reach me at sales@chowntractorparts.com
Thanks for watching!
Is there a test i can perform to confirm my possible broken axle issue? Thank you so much for your help.
Press the dif lock pedal, if the tractor will move it's pretty much got to be the axle. DO NOT drive the tractor anywhere with the dif lock pedal and a broken axle, it can push the bull gear through the bottom of the case, just enough to see that the tractor will move. Axles run $400 and are fairly heavy.
What if I hit the brakes?
@@mikebones322 That should do the trick as well and be a safer test.
Im slowly restoring a d434, were on the internet are you finding you can get parts from for these tractors. A & I products doesn't list a whole lot for them.
A&I has a little bit of stuff (check under B414), but Sparex has more, again check under B414 for morfe stuff. The 434 has a different steering box so the 414 kit won't work for you. Thanks for watching!
@Canadian Redneck Thanks very much for your help, its much appreciated!
Greetings from Kenya.
What's the size of that axle? diameter and length. I'm building a plastic extruder and I'm having a problem finding the material to lathe the screw from. buying from the hardware is quite expensive since they only sell full lengths(6 metres) yet I only need a metre.
do you mind sharing the dimensions?
You're going to build an axle from plastic??
Sorry, I get that now when I reread your question. The axle shaft is only 850 MM X 58MM so likely not long enough.
Hi Dave, Thanks for the video, it was timely for me. I have a 1968 444 and been thinking of replacing the rear oil seals this winter but I didn't know the procedure of the removal of the axels. My 1st question is when removing the PTO shaft is there any retainers that keep the front end of the shaft in place that I need to know about, and 2nd question, when reinstalling the bolts that go through the center of the Bull Gears to the axel what are the torque specs if any, or would that be " as tight as a 4 foot breaker bar can get it " I got a quote from the IH/Case tractor shop near me and they wanted up to $2000 to do the repair. I thought that was a little excessive but it was on the high end price quote. Thanks!
The front PTO shaft has a pilot and the rear has a hole that slides over the pilot to hold it in place in the differential case. I will check on the torque for the rear axle bolt. This is definitely a job that can save you some $$$ to do it yourself! Good luck and thanks for watching!
My manual doesn't list a torque value for the axle bolt, so I guess "1/4 turn before it breaks". :) Good luck!
Lol, well thanks for checking into that, I guess when I remove it I will use a torque wrench and see how tight it was and use that as my reference. Thanks again for the uploads, I look forward to the 444 vids.
Hi Dave, I'm finally getting started on the grease seal replacement, what I'm not sure about is the plumbing connected to the hydraulic unit. Do I just start removing bolts and pulling whatever is connected to the plumbing out, or is there a procedure and being careful or just start pulling and just go for it. If I get to a questionable spot can I email you a picture for clarity so you can see what step I'm at.
Hi Dale, it's probably best to drain the hydraulic unit through the drain plug at the back the you just unhook the two hydraulic lines (feed and pressure), remove all the bolts and lift it off. It sits on two dowel pins so it takes a little coaxing to break it loose. Good luck. :)
Hello Dave. I have a B414 and need a new rear tire . I live in Dundalk Ontario. Where is a good spot to take the tractor tire, if you know of one. . All your videos are very informative and I enjoy watching them. I also need a tachometer for my B414. Someone stole the one out of my tractor. Any help would be appreciated.
You can check with a local tractor dealer for a recommendation, check with the local tire shops and there may be someone that would be able to come to you and change it for you right at home. The tach I can get turns counter clockwise, you will need to check because gas and diesel tachs turn opposite directions. I assume the tach I can get is for a diesel.
I am glad that you enjoy my videos, I appreciate your support, thanks for watching!
Hi Carl, you can email me at sales@chowntractorparts.com and you can check out our website, chowntractorparts.com
Hello, good night, I have a 384 tractor that has no pressure, it does not raise its arms and I have to turn on the power take-off so that it returns and they tell us that it is problems with hydraulic valves but I know what they are, thanks, greetings.
Thanks for watching!
@@CanadianRedneck15 I need help, could you help me this is my phone number 6411026750 thanks.
Hi, is that the same as the 423 ihc? From Belgium
I am not familiar with the 423 model, I don't think they got imported into Canada. I expect they would be a different design but there would be some similarities. Thanks for watching!
you say that a broken axle is common on these tractors but I worked at main IH dealer 40 years ago in Mid Wales UK and I cant remember any axle problems and I have good memory so can you explain what is problem
You have to consider that 414s are now 50+ years old so common ailments now may not have shown up when they were new, also in Canada a lot of these tractors have been used in forestry jobs that tend to be rougher than farm work. Thanks for watching!
ola,, nessecitava de reparar minha caixa de velocidadesdo 434,so engrena 3* e 4*,,,avaria na caixa,, como reparar???,tenho que desmontar veios??? ,,primario???,e secundario,??retirando??OBG
I used google translate so hopefully I have this straight. :) It's a big job to get into the transmission shafts of these tractors but this video will get you started on the way. ruclips.net/video/1sve9HaZMbk/видео.html
Once you have the clutch housing removed you will have to remove the rear axles, bull gears and differential. Remove the lock rings and drive the bottom shaft back out so it will drop, then you can remove the top shafts and go from there. Good luck and thanks for watching!
ok,,DAVE,eu vi seu video,,meu problema esta dentro da transmissao,,engrenagens,, nao engrena as seguintes velocidades,,1,,2,,tomada deforça,,,OBG
I'm sorry, I don;t have a video covering the transmission yet and am having trouble understanding what you need to know.
Is this also identical to the 424 and Louisville 444?
It would be similar but I don't know that it would be identical. Thanks for watching!
What is thé différence whit b-250 please
B250 has a 5 speed single range transmission with a transmission driven PTO (not live). The rest of the series has 4 speed dual range transmission and live PTO. Thanks for watching!
I use folger coffee cans for my bolts
Coffee cans are super handy for the job and cheap which is always a bonus!
Thanks for watching!
Still had to take out the pto shaft
How bout axle on 424 its a little diffeeent
I've not seen any of the 424s here in Canada, I think they were a mainly US tractor. I believe the transmission/rearend were the same though so would be the same process.
Thanks for watching!
Timing for a b250 imjection pump in line pump
If you have removed the gears it's the same as a B414 etc like in this video ruclips.net/video/MAkU-yH2fw4/видео.html
If you have just removed the pump there is no timing required just put the pump back in, it will line itself back up. Thanks for watching!
Necesito un embrague para un 434 .
You'll have to check a parts supplier in your area. Thanks for watching!
I have a 444 that the bull pinion gear I believe to be broken but still functioning.
When the right brake stopped functioning I removed and cleaned the brake parts.
During reassembly I noticed the bull pinion shaft spline spun freely when rotating the rake disc while on the spline that has the differental lock shaft going thru.
my question is can u replace the bull pinion gear with out removing the lift casing accessing it they the exterior plate behind the brakes and on the differential housing?
If you have any videos pertaining at all to this please post or email gterry@verizon.net
Thanks Gary Terry
Hi Gary, this video is the closest I have to getting at the bull pinion shaft. You have to remove the rear axle on the side you are working on so you can move the bull gear back from the pinion shaft housing. On the end of the dif-lock shaft there is a collar you have to push in to expose a small lock ring, remove the lock ring and collar, remove the bolts on the bull pinion housing, then you can remove the bull pinion and housing to get the shaft out of the bull pinion housing. Good luck and thanks for watching!
Hello again from PORTUGAL!! im searching for the procedure to stop the oil leak to the brake pads on the 444. Yours videos help me a lot for rebuilding the engine last year after no oil pressure: new crankshaft, bearings, piston rings....
I have now to stop the left oil seal from leaking. Its a small leaking, I see a photo that exists a HOLE that forwards any oil that escape from the seal to away the brake pads: www.anglo-agriparts.com/bradford-built-international-harvester-major-brake-overhaul
If I just clean this hole to stop this minor leak to reach the brakes you think that is enough ? Or should I dismantling the whole thing? :)
Thanks in advance,
It is certainly worth a try to clean the weep hole because it is a pretty big job to get to the brake seal, you really don't have anything to lose by trying that first.
I am glad that you found my videos helpful, my aim is to show that a lot of these jobs aren't really as scary as they first look. Thanks for watching!
Hi
Thanks for watching!
Nogal even kijken of 1een
Thanks for watching!
Thanks.
I am glad you enjoyed the video, thanks for watching!