Never ceases to amuse me ref the myriad of rust preventative and kill rust cures used on all these video's . after a lifetime (55yrs ) in the job the only rust killer I ever found 100% effective was to remove the rust completely (cut it out ) !.
...all pattern parts, like your crossmember are a bit of a lottery....some are excellent....others lacking severely!....the last full rear crossmember I fitted was thankfully one cut from an existing Landy, so it fitted perfectly
Eric, bringer of mild peril tried to find a used one. But all are rusted away. I didn’t want to buy BritPart. So I bought a Bearmach. I figured it would fit a lot easier.
@@conrad1468 you did the right thing, but as I said pattern parts are a lottery...I've had to do the same as you on many occasions to make things fit properly
I had this job to do but did not fancy buying a crossmember - it struck me as slightly pointless as most of the stuff on a "Factory" crossmember is redundant - I used 154cm of 100 * 100mm box steel instead. Do you really use the "PTO" hole? Doubtful. I used 3mm sheet steel to rebuild the rear 6 or 8" of the chassis itself, then used a laser level to align the box-iron to the factory level of the original cross-member - where the tow-bracket bolts on, I used steel tube to re-enforce the box iron so the through-bolts won't crush the box. The new lights - I will use much neater LED units - will bolt right on using riv-nuts to mount them, the wiring can go inside the box-iron, the rear exhaust hanger is also bolted on using an M8 riv-nut - where the tub bolts to the crossmember is naff as hell when original - just too faffey - so those too will get binned and I will use a single full-width piece of 4mm aluminium that bolts onto both the new crossmember & the tub - meaning you can unbolt the tub from the chassis in just a few seconds in the future - I want the entire upper structure to be removable in less than 10 minutes, cab, tub, roof etc etc - so that future maintenance is just a matter of opening several easily accessible bolts & lifting the entire off without the absolute faff undoing the factory version is. My version (as it's always me that has to fix them) will be the "Really easy to fix" version of a Defender - every fru-fru aspect is going into the bin, it will end up so easy to dismantle that a kid could do it. Anything that is even vaguely fiddly is getting the boot. It will be the "boiled down" version.
Pal of mine is "Mr Landrover" here - he saw my version yesterday and went "Damn - I want that..." - he gets that being a total doddle to remove matters when it comes to future maintenance. If you can be looking at a bare chassis 10 or 15 minutes after you broke out the spanners - that stuff matters more than "Originality" if you are the one doing future repairs.
Wow that's a shame you had to fabricate the new part, im sure they are not cheap! You have gotten a lot done on the underside. I need to stop by and see it! Great video brother and nice work!'
![FNAF vs TF2 - Episode 2 [SFM]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/z5b3V2-VLb0/mqdefault.jpg)
Lovely job friend
Thank you Sir!!
Never ceases to amuse me ref the myriad of rust preventative and kill rust cures used on all these video's . after a lifetime (55yrs ) in the job the only rust killer I ever found 100% effective was to remove the rust completely (cut it out ) !.
Thanks for the Video, great confidence builder.
Thank you!!
A lot of work but came out great that some hard angles and welds to do, but you were victories..
Busman 54 thank you Man!!
Very good job, looks and fits great. Cheers!
Great video! I have a good rear Series 1 x-member that I need to make fit on the rrc chassis. 👌
Thank you!! Glad it helps!
Looks great man.
DoubleODude VW Garage thank you!!
...all pattern parts, like your crossmember are a bit of a lottery....some are excellent....others lacking severely!....the last full rear crossmember I fitted was thankfully one cut from an existing Landy, so it fitted perfectly
Eric, bringer of mild peril tried to find a used one. But all are rusted away. I didn’t want to buy BritPart. So I bought a Bearmach. I figured it would fit a lot easier.
@@conrad1468 you did the right thing, but as I said pattern parts are a lottery...I've had to do the same as you on many occasions to make things fit properly
I had this job to do but did not fancy buying a crossmember - it struck me as slightly pointless as most of the stuff on a "Factory" crossmember is redundant - I used 154cm of 100 * 100mm box steel instead. Do you really use the "PTO" hole? Doubtful. I used 3mm sheet steel to rebuild the rear 6 or 8" of the chassis itself, then used a laser level to align the box-iron to the factory level of the original cross-member - where the tow-bracket bolts on, I used steel tube to re-enforce the box iron so the through-bolts won't crush the box.
The new lights - I will use much neater LED units - will bolt right on using riv-nuts to mount them, the wiring can go inside the box-iron, the rear exhaust hanger is also bolted on using an M8 riv-nut - where the tub bolts to the crossmember is naff as hell when original - just too faffey - so those too will get binned and I will use a single full-width piece of 4mm aluminium that bolts onto both the new crossmember & the tub - meaning you can unbolt the tub from the chassis in just a few seconds in the future - I want the entire upper structure to be removable in less than 10 minutes, cab, tub, roof etc etc - so that future maintenance is just a matter of opening several easily accessible bolts & lifting the entire off without the absolute faff undoing the factory version is. My version (as it's always me that has to fix them) will be the "Really easy to fix" version of a Defender - every fru-fru aspect is going into the bin, it will end up so easy to dismantle that a kid could do it. Anything that is even vaguely fiddly is getting the boot. It will be the "boiled down" version.
Pal of mine is "Mr Landrover" here - he saw my version yesterday and went "Damn - I want that..." - he gets that being a total doddle to remove matters when it comes to future maintenance. If you can be looking at a bare chassis 10 or 15 minutes after you broke out the spanners - that stuff matters more than "Originality" if you are the one doing future repairs.
Great job coming up with an alternative solution. For a LWB station wagon fuel tank blocks the PTO hole. So it’s absolutely useless now. Ha ha!!
Wow that's a shame you had to fabricate the new part, im sure they are not cheap! You have gotten a lot done on the underside. I need to stop by and see it! Great video brother and nice work!'
Slades VW Beetle come on by the house. Most evening I’m down in the garage. Wear dirty clothes and I’ll show ya under the truck. Not cheap at all!!
Cory Anderson Sounds great brother!! I’ll bring my zip up suit with men. I can imagine that’s a bit more expensive to do then our vws
Those sockets are nato sockets
Good to know. Thank you!!
remote for winch socket
Good idea!!