MR2 Tachometer fix and update for V6 or V8 application
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- Опубликовано: 11 сен 2024
- This video goes over how to address a low reading or erratic Tachometer in your MR2. It also covers how to update the tachometer to read a low voltage tach signal and to rescale it for a V6 or a V8 application.
Here are the values you will need:
Capacitors: 16V 10uF Electrolytic
Input Resistor: 51k Ohm
9000RPM V6 rescale resistor: 1.31k Ohm
8000RPM V6 rescale resistor: 3.49k Ohm
You can buy all the components together in a set right on my site: frankensteinmo...
Here are links to the tools used (Note, links below are amazon affiliate links, I do make a few pennies if you purchase through these links):
Soldering Station: amzn.to/3bjkKLT (this is the updated version of what i use in the garage and more than you need if you're just doing tiny things here and there, this is a nice unit for the rare occasional use: amzn.to/2WmMuLr )
Flush Cutters: amzn.to/3boPevL (these are super handy, the 3 pack is a great deal)
No Clean Solder: amzn.to/2YQq1Yw (note this is leaded solder, it works better but don't eat it)
No Clean Solder Wick: amzn.to/3fHs4ED
Very nice Marc! There is no tall chics talks about tacos in this video. it still draws my full attention! Thanks for your good work. I am going to this MR2 science project with you on the youtube and learn some good electronic and mechanical knowledge with you. You might be a good teacher at auto tech school !
Just did this mod for the 2GR swap and also did the capacitors as a preventative measure. Everything finally works like it should. Thank you so much for this detailed video Marc!
Awesome, happy to help :)
Thanks for another no-nonsense and clear instructional video.
6:58 i am getting whole takumi vibes here :D when engine is making more power with rpm, but you still decide to shift early because tachometer say so
Seriously great video Marc! Thank you so much for making it!
Thank you!! Just received yesterday and it’s installed today. I cannot thank you enough!
Awesome, I love being able to keep cars on the road for as long as possible.
Awesome work as always, thanks for continuing to be a resource for the community
Just the video I was looking for. What would be the resistor values for both the "Input" and the "Turbo Tach" if let's say I took the OE ones and put new ones in (and not going parallel with 2 resistors)? I may have missed it on the video.
Great video !! On my 2GR swap (NA tach) The tach started to show lower and an lower values. now its sits at the very bottom all the time. It probably needs the capacitors replacement.
yes, exactly. you need to replace the caps.
@@FrankensteinMotorworks Just replaced the 2 of them, and ...... IT WORKS AGAIN !
This is awesome Marc! Any chance you'll go over the modifications for working cruise control with the 2GR as well?
That's not a bad idea, i'll put it on the list for after the car is up and running. The wiring documentation does cover it for now though.
If you want to make a video with only the ten seconds beginning at 7:50, we can all show it to people who accuse us of "breathing and eating MR2s".
I was really confused with this comment until i went to 7:50 and checked it out. It got a good laugh out of me :)
great video, helped me a lot! thx.
Your an absolute genius mate fantastic instructional video keep them coming. When will the instructions be on your website?
Thank you, and I will continue to make more videos :). The instructions will be available in PDF format in a few days on the website, i just have to clean it all up.
You gotta love parts-bin cars. Would it be ok to use a little dialectic grease under the washers that hold the tach to the circuit film? Just so it doesn't stick? Is there a shirt gap measurement for the needle to cluster face gap? I was working on a 2002 Dodge truck and read somewhere that the gap should be . 035 masterful job homie💪
Nice Tutorial, thank you!
You're welcome. As the parts get more expensive we need to do what we can to repair things instead of replacing them.
Genius! Any thoughts on selling ready modified tach's?
I'm in Melbourne, Australia. if you need it modified, let me know.
I've been wondering how the AW11 speedo units differ between the 240 and 180 Km/hr versions. There's still the possibility that its done by gearing, but I now have a better idea on what to inspect and compare between the two units. Thanks for the instructions.
The mechanical speedometers are usually done with gearing at the trans but i don't have any experience on the MKI to be able to give you a specific answer.
@@FrankensteinMotorworks It might be great if you can make a similar video for the mechanical speedometers on the SW20s, but then again I wonder if they would work properly by simply keeping the cable in place. One of my SW20s has a mechanical speedometer, but three wires (with a different shape than my 1993 speed sensor connector) also appear to be going into the transmission.
My car has that very wiggly speedo on starting up and driving around. After a few minutes of driving it goes back to normal and accurate speeds.
What year is it? that's usually due to a cable speedometer with lack of lubrication in the cable.
1993! Sorry i never responded!
It fixed itself after i watched your video. Thankyou for fixing it
91 N/A that I will be swapping to a Gen4/5 3SGTE Turbo. My tach is currently near dead. With plans for a future swap, what is the best course of action to take if I plan to fix the tach now while it is still an N/A? (I am also swapping the cluster lights with LED at the same time).
Is this modification necessary if your running a stand alone for the 2grfe?
Many standalone ECUs can output a different tach signal than what they are running. Check in your documentation to see if the one you are using can run a high voltage 4 cylinder signal. If so you don't need to do anything to the tach.
What would be the fix for speedometer being erratic ie: start the car and speed jumps up to 20mph in park and falls back down. Cruising at low speed speedo needle hits 180 and back etc?
I really haven't had any need to look into the speedometer mechanism but if your MR2 is 91-92 this is usually due to a bound up cable, if it's 93+ i'd bet there's a good chance you have capacitors that have gone bad on the board.
@@FrankensteinMotorworks yeah. I have a Frankenstein build so always have weird issues
I have a ‘12 Avalon I’m interested in topping with a SC.
Do u sell a SC and all the accessories for that application?
If anyone needs this done in Australia and isn't confident, I have the equipment and understanding, If you can get it to me, I'd probably do it for free.
Nice Video. I have a 2GR using megasquirt 3. Added a Dakota Digital SGI-8E to make tach work. Was not working using MSD tach adapter. Had to set it to high voltage with SGI-8E. Was working fine for a year. Tach capacitor problem again. What's the 51k resistor for? Should I install one 51k resistor and it will for direct from my MS3 ECU? (ECU scale output set at 67%) ? Thx.
hello, what year avalon gauge clusters is that?
Quick question what do you do with the wires that are in the rear for the gen 5 3s
I'm not sure which wires you're talking about but with the 5th gen 3s-gte as well as any other low voltage tach signal that is still 4 cylinders you just need to reduce the input resistor on the tach from 50k ohm to 25k ohm.
Great video Marc as always 👍 Is the 90’s Avalon tach a direct swap with no calibration needed?
Only if you have the NA gauge face, otherwise the sweep is wrong since the turbo face goes to 9000 instead of 8000
@@FrankensteinMotorworks Thanks Marc, I have the NA gauge face.
@@KidClean3 you're good to go by just swapping out the driver if you want to go that way. Don't forget to get two sided tape to put the face back on.
How would you do the same 12v with the power supply to the Speedometer instead of RPM gauge? With the intent being to have the 12v hold the speedometer at zero to calibrate it?
I usually just use the car's wiring to do that. just plug it in and turn the car on without having the bezel and slide the needle on.
@@FrankensteinMotorworks clearly idk electricity. I just gotta get the touch down then, as I keep turning it and it’s tough to calibrate/put on correctly.
Thanks for the video. I have a Celica GTFOUR and even though this video isn’t about it, I was able to find why the turbo boost gauge was faulty with the video, and had a friend replace the capacitor which fixed it.
Any fix for the fuel gauge? It's not the sender in my case, it's the gauge itself. Which is impossible to buy.
I haven't actually looked at the fuel gauge but if there's no water damage on the circuit board and there's no high resistance connections in the wiring harness you're pretty much left with electrolytic capacitors failing so it's worth opening it up and taking a look. I would take it out and power it separately then use fixed value resistors to test if it is displaying the right value on the gauge.
From the V6, where do I wire the Tach from as far as the engine goes? Thank you in advance
The tach wire is in the engine bay fuse box at the left rear of the SW20's engine bay.
Could you use the turbo resistor in the NA tach to make the NA tach scale for a face plate swap?
no, the scaling would be incorrect. I would suggest you put in a variable 10k potentiometer and adjust it until it is correct and then replace it with a fixed value resistor.
Will the Camry Tach with the 1mz also work?
I think so but i've always used the avalon v6 tachometer when i just swapped in another mechanism.
Great video and insight! I do have a question which might be a long shot since i know you don’t do k-swaps, but i am in the middle of doing it to my sw20 and will be keeping the toyota transmission for this swap. The speedo is cable driven so that will work, but will i need to add the 51k ohm resistor to the tachometer for it to work with the modern hondata ECU? Im trying to keep the stock toyota cluster working. Any input is much appreciated. Thanks! 🙏
You aren't giving me any info about which ECU is generating the signal but the 51k ohm resistor is needed if the tach output is a 0 to 12V square wave output. If it is a 0 to 5V square wave you'd likely need a 23.7k ohm resistor instead. If the output is generated directly from the ignition coil on a distributor system then you don't need any modifications to the tachometer. I don't think it uses a distributor but that info may be useful to someone else that comes across this post.
@@FrankensteinMotorworks i havent decided on what ECU to run yet, might be a stock honda ECU with a hondata piggy back or a haltech 1500. Im in the middle of rewiring the mr2 harness and the honda k engine harness and I’ve read that the tach will not work without a resistor mod. Ill have to do some research and determine if the tach is outputting 0-12v (51k) or 0-5v (23.7k). This helps narrow my research. I appreciate it, thanks!
@@thangcacdi Happy to help. Also, if you do end up wanting a Haltech ECU I do sell those and i can likely help answer questions as you go along with your wiring/ECU.
@@FrankensteinMotorworks thats great i didnt know. Let me send you an email and we can talk. Thanks!
I have a gen 4 3sgte what capacitors and resistors should I use any help would be appreciated
I don't know if the gen4 is a high or low voltage tach signal but you'll want to replace the capacitors and also add the extra input resistor in parallel if the signal is a low voltage signal.
@@FrankensteinMotorworks I'm not sure this is entirely correct. My import 93 turbo MR2 has a 4.7k resistor in that spot, not 50/60k. So it is actually even lower than what you are targeting with this modification. I am a little confused why this would be the case? The turbo MR2s are still trigger by the ignitor from the wiring diagrams, so maybe this is not a high level signal and the 4.7k resistor is fine. I think I will test it as I just finished installing the Gen 4 engine and the tach is an ECU triggered output.
@@beaujangles101 the original input resistor is very high resistance, if your input resistor is 4.7k then there's something different with that tach than the ones i have investigated.