Other helpful videos: Radon Mitigation with Drain Tile - ruclips.net/video/h0g_UY5-Zew/видео.htmlsi=ef4wqWWdKaWt_eh5 Radon Mitigation without Drain Tile - ruclips.net/video/TyCUneMCcLc/видео.htmlsi=IbmQbR8e-Zqh6jfc Activating a Passive Radon System - ruclips.net/video/yY0G7TIUZIY/видео.htmlsi=EHQg9yvZAsrDeyUK Other Resources: Get an estimate within an hour of the Twin Cities, MN - americanradonmitigation.com/free-estimates/ Consulting - americanradonmitigation.com/product/consulting/ Tool Kit Rental - americanradonmitigation.com/product/radon-tool-kit-rental/ EcoQube Radon Monitor - americanradonmitigation.com/product/ecoqube/
My house is unusual construction in that the crawlspace is the original land grade... undisturbed soil. The house was built with a short wall foundation, poured in an 18 inch wide trench, dug by hand. My crawlspace also has good ventilation, as my 750 square foot home has 3 foundation vents, and a 24X24 inch crawlspace access hole that stay open to the outside at all times.
Great video! I just did a radon test and was getting 8 pci/l. I have a uncovered sump pit, and was wondering if a good first step would just be to seal it and see if that fixes the issue?
Thank you, Parker. Your sump will need to be covered anyways, so you could try it. My guess is that it will not have a significant impact on your radon levels unless you are measuring right next to the sump to begin with.
@American Radon Mitigation thanks for the response. I decided to take the advice and seal the sump with an active radon fan kit. Went from reading 8-10 pci/l to now reading 1.1-1.6 pci/l! After only 18hrs of the system being on. Feels good knowing my kids aren't breathing that stuff in, when they're playing downstairs!
You're video was great! I actually understood everything said! That's saying alot for a girl from Arizona where there is none of this ! I think i heard you mention the mitigation system drawing significant amounts of water from under the house.. Correct? Does that mean it gives you an edge up against a damp basement?
Just bought an Airthings View Plus to monitor Radon levels and it's been reporting an average of 3.8 over the last month. I've been told anything over 4 and I should contact a radon mitigation specialist. Since we're bumping right against that lower threshold, seems like a good idea to reach out to someone. I have a single story house with no basement, and no crawlspace...so how does a radon mitigation system work? It seems like these systems that were demonstrated relied on having either a crawlspace or a basement.
Hey Chad. Slab-on-grade homes are uncommon here in Minnesota, so we don't have much experience with them. The concept of creating suction under the slab is the same. However, the finished spaces make it much more challenging. You may be looking at stitching as a possible solution. I'd find a mitigation company that does pressure field extension testing. We do some stitching in this video. ruclips.net/video/TyCUneMCcLc/видео.html
Why would a radon mitigation system have tubing going both into the ground and the wall on the opposite side of the basement? There’s a long tube connecting the two.
@@AmericanRadonMitigation The systems I’ve seen online just have a vertical tube going from the ground into the attic and through the roof. In ours it doesn’t go to the attic but it has the wide vertical tube going into the ground (with the mano meter on it and such like in your video) but then branches off to a long thin PVC tube that connects to the wall in the basement 10ft away. The other branch of tubing goes to outdoors outside the basement where there’s a fan and the radon is released outdoors instead of going to the attic. Trying to understand how this design of active mitigation system works - why is there tubing that connects to the wall, not just the floor? So basically there’s 3 points of connection for the PVC tubing - outdoors, ground, wall. The parts where it’s connected to the wall and floor there are yellow “radon flow” stickers with arrows.
I'm sorry, but I still do not understand. Are you asking if the radon system in this video is connected to the sub-slab soil? What time in the video is prompting your question?
@@AmericanRadonMitigation I’m asking about a radon system I have, not the one in the video. Looking into this further, it looks like our system has 2 “suction points” as you refer to it in other videos. I was just confused because I hadn’t seen a radon system with more than 1 suction point. On a separate note, if someone wanted to accurately know how much radon they were exposed to prior to mitigation, what do you think would need to be done to get an accurate reading that reflects what things were like before mitigation? Obviously turn off the fan and block the outdoor vent but would having 2 suction points create a problem in getting a reading that truly reflects pre-mitigation levels? We have conflicting records of short term radon levels pre-mitigation (by a factor of 10!) and have spent multiple decades living at the property so trying to figure out just how much risk of lung cancer there may be. Not opposed to spending thousands of dollars, if necessary to get an accurate picture of radon levels pre-mitigation.
It's common for a radon system to have several suction points. Yes, you would have to shut off your radon system and cap the discharge to see what your reason levels before mitigation may have been. However, radon levels constantly fluctuate, so it may be hard to know exactly what you were exposed to in the past.
Let’s see if I have this right. First find a convenient location in the basement slab over the sewer drain pipe. Cut a hole in the slab and in the sewer drain pipe (usually a 4” pipe) and connect a 4” PVC pipe to the sewer drain. This must be a permanent water tight connection otherwise a sewer back-up could saturate the soil below the slab with sewage. So now you have a system that is drawing air from the public sewer lines or from your septic system, not from the soil under you basement slab. Is this nuts? As for rain water entering the pipe above the roof, if the mitigation system pipe is not attached to your sewer drain pipe but to a sub-basement water drain pipe designed to remove excess water from below the basement slab, well then that would make some sense however if that sub-floor pipe is perforated to allow moisture in, it will let the rain water out below your slab. Is that nuts? Well, what if you do not have any sub-concrete floor drainage system pipes, below your floor? Then what?
Kent, we never tie into sub-slab plumbing. A radon system creates suction below the slab to overpower the house's natural suction on the soil. If a home has drain tile, the mitigation system may look like the one in this video. ruclips.net/video/h0g_UY5-Zew/видео.html If there is no drain tile, it may look like one of these systems. ruclips.net/video/TyCUneMCcLc/видео.html ruclips.net/video/B9lI8yVrSms/видео.html ruclips.net/video/YyEXSXbou9k/видео.html The small amount of rain that does enter a radon system ends up in the first suction point, where the soil will dry out due to the ventilation created by the radon fan. Here's a link to the radon standards where radon exhaust discharge is covered. standards.aarst.org/SGM-SF-2017/23/index.html
Do you suggest insulating the PVC in any area it traverses unconditioned space? Also, wouldn't using a curve vent pipe on the roof prevent rain from getting in? Like, instead of pointing straight up, add a little vent piece so it points sideways
Here's what the standard says about insulation in section 7.2.10 standards.aarst.org/SGM-SF-2017-X/14/index.html Check out section 7.4 for discharge requirements. standards.aarst.org/SGM-SF-2017-X/16/index.html
Does the pipe have to go all the way to the roof of the house, or can it just suck from the basement and out the side of the house? We have a daylight basement so wondering if it could just go out next to a window. Thanks.
If you are in the United States, you will want to follow the appropriate discharge standards. Check out section 6.4 standards.aarst.org/SGM-SF-2023/24/index.html#zoom=z
Ok, so our water heater just took a shit and they had to unseal the sump pump ( located in our laundry room north end of the house )cover with the radon system in it to drain the heater. But we have two sump pumps and the 2nd is not sealed ( it is located under the stairs to the basement south end of the house). We have been in our house for almost 7 years now. My question is do we need to call the installer to recheck the system? I will seal it back up myself, but hell the other sump has been uncovered for years now and it was inspected that way.
If the seal/caulk at the slab-pipe connection at the floor deteriorates, can the system briefly be disconnected from the power source in order to remove the old caulk and apply new caulk and let it dry before plugging the fan in again? And when then plugging in again, will it automatically start/run again?
I have a question. I have one of those ventilation systems in my garage. Today it's making a louder humming noise than usual. Should i get someone to check it out? Its approx 5 years old.
Yes, Karen, it sounds like your fan is starting to fail, so you should replace it. Here are some videos you may find helpful. Loud Radon Fan ruclips.net/video/zISpbB9WFrk/видео.html DIY Radon Fan Replacement ruclips.net/video/qEADrgDg4kk/видео.html
Not that I'm aware of. You may want to be sure the horizontal piping is sloped to allow water to drain back to the suction point(s). A dripping sound could happen if a fitting isn't glued correctly to the pipe. A check valve on a sump pump or lift pump makes a bang sound when the pump shuts off. Maybe that's what you are hearing?
We would charge around $6500 for this install today. Some contractors charge as little as $1200 and are in and out in a few hours. The home we mitigated this week took four days with a cost of $11k. Like anything else, you get what you pay for.
Yes, it would be the same type of system. Having an unfinished basement allows for an easier installation. We can also seal things that are inaccessible in a finished basement, which makes for a more energy-efficient radon system.
Thanks, if you have a radon sump pump cover, can you use one of the ports for the 3" suction line? My slab has 4" of foam under it. Are there any limits to the PVC pipe length - horizontal or vertical? Any reason the fan can't be placed in the basement?
You can draw off of the sump cover, but it is best practice to avoid drawing from sump covers. We typically only do so when the home has aftermarket drain tile as it draws less conditioned air from the home. You will want to verify how much air you need to move to achieve pressure field extension before you commit to 3-inch piping as it may not be able to move enough air. There are no limits to how much pipe you run. However, be mindful of the friction loss each fitting and length of pipe adds. Are you in the United States, Jeff? If so, the radon standards do not allow radon fans in the basement, like they do in Canada. The radon standard will be helpful if you are tackling this project yourself. Here's a link to the standard. standards.aarst.org/SGM-SF-2017/index.html If you want some guidance, we offer consulting. americanradonmitigation.com/consulting/ We also rent the tools you need to do diagnostic pressure field extension testing. americanradonmitigation.com/product/radon-tool-kit-rental/ This video will likely be the most helpful for you. ruclips.net/video/h0g_UY5-Zew/видео.html
That is my old house, so I don't have a price to give you. We would charge around 6500 to install that same system today, not counting all of the time we spent jetting the blocked drain tile.
I have a French drain in my basement with 2 sump pumps on either side. Also around the perimeter of the basement I have 6 inches of dimple plastic that comes off the ground, do you recommend I seal the top of the plastic (is it necessary to seal that also?) or just seal the sump pump pits
The energy penalty can be significant if you do not seal the dimple mat and use a large radon fan. I ran the numbers on this scenario in a home a few years ago, and it would have cost over $1000 a year to operate. The cost breakdown was $172 to power the radon fan and over $800 in added heating and cooling costs. If it's necessary to leave the dimple mat unsealed to allow water entry, I recommend installing a vapor barrier on the foundation wall. Tuck the bottom of the vapor barrier between the foundation wall and the dimple mat. Then, seal the top, seams, and bottom of the barrier to limit conditioned air loss. You may also have to seal the top of the foundation wall if it's a concrete block. The vapor barrier will allow water to run down the foundation wall and enter the water management system.
Would a chimney cap style of ventilation guard cause any issues with a directly upward facing chimney vent? Or a reverse u shape that makes it face downwards?
We have a video that addresses your questions linked below. Also, check the description for a link to the radon mitigation standard. Rain Caps and Radon Mitigation ruclips.net/video/MOK5eAPH3SU/видео.html
@@AmericanRadonMitigation I used a local environmental consultant to install the system with sump pit as suction point. My levels haven't changed much even after waiting for 14 days, they used to be 5.1 and now it is 4.3 (different test equipments) can you please let me know what kind of things I need to investigate to root cause the issue ? I checked the fan is running fine and there is pressure on the manometer as well.
I would look for a contractor who can do pressure field extension testing. This will allow them to see which areas are not being addressed by your current system.
Hi Jesse. If we get a 4 pci/l in crawlspace which we never go down, but den where we watch tv has a 2 in winter (and occasionally shoots to 3-4, again in winter) is it cause to worry? Sometimes den does get above 4 but maybe couple days out of entire winter. Should we mitigate?
It depends on your definition of success. We specialize in reducing radon as much as possible, which requires more engineering. A typical installation takes us 28 hours vs. 2-4 hours. Like most things, you get what you pay for.
Other helpful videos:
Radon Mitigation with Drain Tile - ruclips.net/video/h0g_UY5-Zew/видео.htmlsi=ef4wqWWdKaWt_eh5
Radon Mitigation without Drain Tile - ruclips.net/video/TyCUneMCcLc/видео.htmlsi=IbmQbR8e-Zqh6jfc
Activating a Passive Radon System - ruclips.net/video/yY0G7TIUZIY/видео.htmlsi=EHQg9yvZAsrDeyUK
Other Resources:
Get an estimate within an hour of the Twin Cities, MN - americanradonmitigation.com/free-estimates/
Consulting - americanradonmitigation.com/product/consulting/
Tool Kit Rental - americanradonmitigation.com/product/radon-tool-kit-rental/
EcoQube Radon Monitor - americanradonmitigation.com/product/ecoqube/
My house is unusual construction in that the crawlspace is the original land grade... undisturbed soil. The house was built with a short wall foundation, poured in an 18 inch wide trench, dug by hand. My crawlspace also has good ventilation, as my 750 square foot home has 3 foundation vents, and a 24X24 inch crawlspace access hole that stay open to the outside at all times.
Are you describing why you don't have radon issues, or are you describing why it's hard to install this mitigation system?
Great looking system, Jesse!!
Thanks, Brent! That's my old house. AKA my old radon lab. :)
Thank you!
👍
Great video! I just did a radon test and was getting 8 pci/l. I have a uncovered sump pit, and was wondering if a good first step would just be to seal it and see if that fixes the issue?
Thank you, Parker. Your sump will need to be covered anyways, so you could try it. My guess is that it will not have a significant impact on your radon levels unless you are measuring right next to the sump to begin with.
@American Radon Mitigation thanks for the response. I decided to take the advice and seal the sump with an active radon fan kit. Went from reading 8-10 pci/l to now reading 1.1-1.6 pci/l! After only 18hrs of the system being on. Feels good knowing my kids aren't breathing that stuff in, when they're playing downstairs!
Way to go!
You're video was great! I actually understood everything said! That's saying alot for a girl from Arizona where there is none of this ! I think i heard you mention the mitigation system drawing significant amounts of water from under the house.. Correct? Does that mean it gives you an edge up against a damp basement?
Yes, that's correct. I'm glad you found the video helpful!
Thank you! This was really good information & explained well.
You're very welcome!
Just bought an Airthings View Plus to monitor Radon levels and it's been reporting an average of 3.8 over the last month. I've been told anything over 4 and I should contact a radon mitigation specialist. Since we're bumping right against that lower threshold, seems like a good idea to reach out to someone.
I have a single story house with no basement, and no crawlspace...so how does a radon mitigation system work? It seems like these systems that were demonstrated relied on having either a crawlspace or a basement.
Hey Chad. Slab-on-grade homes are uncommon here in Minnesota, so we don't have much experience with them. The concept of creating suction under the slab is the same. However, the finished spaces make it much more challenging. You may be looking at stitching as a possible solution. I'd find a mitigation company that does pressure field extension testing.
We do some stitching in this video. ruclips.net/video/TyCUneMCcLc/видео.html
Okay, but why not put a rain cover on it? It would only cost $5 more.
Icing is the main reason. Check out this video for more on why we don't use rain caps. ruclips.net/video/MOK5eAPH3SU/видео.html
Why would a radon mitigation system have tubing going both into the ground and the wall on the opposite side of the basement? There’s a long tube connecting the two.
Can you help me understand your question?
@@AmericanRadonMitigation The systems I’ve seen online just have a vertical tube going from the ground into the attic and through the roof. In ours it doesn’t go to the attic but it has the wide vertical tube going into the ground (with the mano meter on it and such like in your video) but then branches off to a long thin PVC tube that connects to the wall in the basement 10ft away. The other branch of tubing goes to outdoors outside the basement where there’s a fan and the radon is released outdoors instead of going to the attic. Trying to understand how this design of active mitigation system works - why is there tubing that connects to the wall, not just the floor? So basically there’s 3 points of connection for the PVC tubing - outdoors, ground, wall. The parts where it’s connected to the wall and floor there are yellow “radon flow” stickers with arrows.
I'm sorry, but I still do not understand. Are you asking if the radon system in this video is connected to the sub-slab soil? What time in the video is prompting your question?
@@AmericanRadonMitigation I’m asking about a radon system I have, not the one in the video. Looking into this further, it looks like our system has 2 “suction points” as you refer to it in other videos. I was just confused because I hadn’t seen a radon system with more than 1 suction point. On a separate note, if someone wanted to accurately know how much radon they were exposed to prior to mitigation, what do you think would need to be done to get an accurate reading that reflects what things were like before mitigation? Obviously turn off the fan and block the outdoor vent but would having 2 suction points create a problem in getting a reading that truly reflects pre-mitigation levels? We have conflicting records of short term radon levels pre-mitigation (by a factor of 10!) and have spent multiple decades living at the property so trying to figure out just how much risk of lung cancer there may be. Not opposed to spending thousands of dollars, if necessary to get an accurate picture of radon levels pre-mitigation.
It's common for a radon system to have several suction points.
Yes, you would have to shut off your radon system and cap the discharge to see what your reason levels before mitigation may have been. However, radon levels constantly fluctuate, so it may be hard to know exactly what you were exposed to in the past.
Let’s see if I have this right. First find a convenient location in the basement slab over the sewer drain pipe. Cut a hole in the slab and in the sewer drain pipe (usually a 4” pipe) and connect a 4” PVC pipe to the sewer drain. This must be a permanent water tight connection otherwise a sewer back-up could saturate the soil below the slab with sewage. So now you have a system that is drawing air from the public sewer lines or from your septic system, not from the soil under you basement slab. Is this nuts? As for rain water entering the pipe above the roof, if the mitigation system pipe is not attached to your sewer drain pipe but to a sub-basement water drain pipe designed to remove excess water from below the basement slab, well then that would make some sense however if that sub-floor pipe is perforated to allow moisture in, it will let the rain water out below your slab. Is that nuts? Well, what if you do not have any sub-concrete floor drainage system pipes, below your floor? Then what?
Kent, we never tie into sub-slab plumbing. A radon system creates suction below the slab to overpower the house's natural suction on the soil.
If a home has drain tile, the mitigation system may look like the one in this video. ruclips.net/video/h0g_UY5-Zew/видео.html
If there is no drain tile, it may look like one of these systems. ruclips.net/video/TyCUneMCcLc/видео.html
ruclips.net/video/B9lI8yVrSms/видео.html
ruclips.net/video/YyEXSXbou9k/видео.html
The small amount of rain that does enter a radon system ends up in the first suction point, where the soil will dry out due to the ventilation created by the radon fan.
Here's a link to the radon standards where radon exhaust discharge is covered. standards.aarst.org/SGM-SF-2017/23/index.html
Do you suggest insulating the PVC in any area it traverses unconditioned space?
Also, wouldn't using a curve vent pipe on the roof prevent rain from getting in? Like, instead of pointing straight up, add a little vent piece so it points sideways
Here's what the standard says about insulation in section 7.2.10 standards.aarst.org/SGM-SF-2017-X/14/index.html
Check out section 7.4 for discharge requirements. standards.aarst.org/SGM-SF-2017-X/16/index.html
Does the pipe have to go all the way to the roof of the house, or can it just suck from the basement and out the side of the house? We have a daylight basement so wondering if it could just go out next to a window. Thanks.
If you are in the United States, you will want to follow the appropriate discharge standards. Check out section 6.4 standards.aarst.org/SGM-SF-2023/24/index.html#zoom=z
Ok, so our water heater just took a shit and they had to unseal the sump pump ( located in our laundry room north end of the house )cover with the radon system in it to drain the heater. But we have two sump pumps and the 2nd is not sealed ( it is located under the stairs to the basement south end of the house). We have been in our house for almost 7 years now.
My question is do we need to call the installer to recheck the system? I will seal it back up myself, but hell the other sump has been uncovered for years now and it was inspected that way.
It might be a good idea to have it checked out and the other sump sealed.
Why redirect the Radon when the Radon can be prevented from entering?
Have you found a good way to do that? I know the EPA did studies on it years ago but found it wasn’t practical.
Very helpful
Glad you think so!
If the seal/caulk at the slab-pipe connection at the floor deteriorates, can the system briefly be disconnected from the power source in order to remove the old caulk and apply new caulk and let it dry before plugging the fan in again? And when then plugging in again, will it automatically start/run again?
Yes, Markus, if the fan is powered off, it will automatically start up once you turn the power back on.
I have a question. I have one of those ventilation systems in my garage. Today it's making a louder humming noise than usual. Should i get someone to check it out? Its approx 5 years old.
Yes, Karen, it sounds like your fan is starting to fail, so you should replace it. Here are some videos you may find helpful.
Loud Radon Fan ruclips.net/video/zISpbB9WFrk/видео.html
DIY Radon Fan Replacement ruclips.net/video/qEADrgDg4kk/видео.html
Could radon system cause a Knocking sound ? Or dripping sound inside the wall? Thanks
Not that I'm aware of. You may want to be sure the horizontal piping is sloped to allow water to drain back to the suction point(s). A dripping sound could happen if a fitting isn't glued correctly to the pipe. A check valve on a sump pump or lift pump makes a bang sound when the pump shuts off. Maybe that's what you are hearing?
Can i just make pipe-sized small hole in my basement slab and insult pipe? I am so worried about size of pit and not sure how deep it has to be.
I'd suggest watching some videos from this playlist before getting started. ruclips.net/p/PLuNbsvWsW0-BAlE7A5ufGroZRZUS3_T2d
what does this cost?
We would charge around $6500 for this install today. Some contractors charge as little as $1200 and are in and out in a few hours. The home we mitigated this week took four days with a cost of $11k. Like anything else, you get what you pay for.
If the basement is unfinished do you need this same setup?
Yes, it would be the same type of system. Having an unfinished basement allows for an easier installation. We can also seal things that are inaccessible in a finished basement, which makes for a more energy-efficient radon system.
Thanks, if you have a radon sump pump cover, can you use one of the ports for the 3" suction line? My slab has 4" of foam under it. Are there any limits to the PVC pipe length - horizontal or vertical? Any reason the fan can't be placed in the basement?
You can draw off of the sump cover, but it is best practice to avoid drawing from sump covers. We typically only do so when the home has aftermarket drain tile as it draws less conditioned air from the home.
You will want to verify how much air you need to move to achieve pressure field extension before you commit to 3-inch piping as it may not be able to move enough air. There are no limits to how much pipe you run. However, be mindful of the friction loss each fitting and length of pipe adds.
Are you in the United States, Jeff? If so, the radon standards do not allow radon fans in the basement, like they do in Canada.
The radon standard will be helpful if you are tackling this project yourself. Here's a link to the standard. standards.aarst.org/SGM-SF-2017/index.html
If you want some guidance, we offer consulting. americanradonmitigation.com/consulting/
We also rent the tools you need to do diagnostic pressure field extension testing. americanradonmitigation.com/product/radon-tool-kit-rental/
This video will likely be the most helpful for you. ruclips.net/video/h0g_UY5-Zew/видео.html
How much does that system cost with installation?
That is my old house, so I don't have a price to give you. We would charge around 6500 to install that same system today, not counting all of the time we spent jetting the blocked drain tile.
How much is a system like the one in the video?
Hey April, our average system cost today is about $7400. This system would have been slightly less than that.
I have a French drain in my basement with 2 sump pumps on either side. Also around the perimeter of the basement I have 6 inches of dimple plastic that comes off the ground, do you recommend I seal the top of the plastic (is it necessary to seal that also?) or just seal the sump pump pits
The energy penalty can be significant if you do not seal the dimple mat and use a large radon fan. I ran the numbers on this scenario in a home a few years ago, and it would have cost over $1000 a year to operate. The cost breakdown was $172 to power the radon fan and over $800 in added heating and cooling costs.
If it's necessary to leave the dimple mat unsealed to allow water entry, I recommend installing a vapor barrier on the foundation wall. Tuck the bottom of the vapor barrier between the foundation wall and the dimple mat. Then, seal the top, seams, and bottom of the barrier to limit conditioned air loss. You may also have to seal the top of the foundation wall if it's a concrete block. The vapor barrier will allow water to run down the foundation wall and enter the water management system.
Would a chimney cap style of ventilation guard cause any issues with a directly upward facing chimney vent? Or a reverse u shape that makes it face downwards?
We have a video that addresses your questions linked below. Also, check the description for a link to the radon mitigation standard.
Rain Caps and Radon Mitigation
ruclips.net/video/MOK5eAPH3SU/видео.html
Can you suggest a good contractor for installation of radon mitigation system in greater Philadelphia region ?
You could check out Integra Environmental in Allentown, PA.
do you do work in florida?
We offer virtual consulting for those outside of our service area of Minnesota. americanradonmitigation.com/product/consulting/
Do you provide services in Michigan ?
We only provide consulting services outside of Minnesota.
@@AmericanRadonMitigation I used a local environmental consultant to install the system with sump pit as suction point. My levels haven't changed much even after waiting for 14 days, they used to be 5.1 and now it is 4.3 (different test equipments) can you please let me know what kind of things I need to investigate to root cause the issue ? I checked the fan is running fine and there is pressure on the manometer as well.
I would look for a contractor who can do pressure field extension testing. This will allow them to see which areas are not being addressed by your current system.
Hi Jesse. If we get a 4 pci/l in crawlspace which we never go down, but den where we watch tv has a 2 in winter (and occasionally shoots to 3-4, again in winter) is it cause to worry? Sometimes den does get above 4 but maybe couple days out of entire winter. Should we mitigate?
If it were my house, I would mitigate.
@@AmericanRadonMitigation Any recommendation for someone working in Long Island NY?
Oh yeah connect the drain tiles to the basement lol
Can you elaborate on this? Do you mean exterior drain tile is a better choice than interior when building a home?
Might be worried about water coming in.
I'm guessing they're expensive
It depends on your definition of success. We specialize in reducing radon as much as possible, which requires more engineering. A typical installation takes us 28 hours vs. 2-4 hours. Like most things, you get what you pay for.
What kind of radiophobic people install an ACTIVE fan system to get rid of radon gas in the basement?
Under-music gets a thumbs down no matter the video content
Sorry to let you down.