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Additional note, be very mindful when removing the engine cover/air filter box from the top of the engine. The example in this video has an after market air intake, so it does not show this, but the OEM air intake duct is connected to the underside of that cover with a spring clamp that is not accessible until the cover is removed and at the other end to your front grill with 2 torx head screws (#15 torx I think it is). Be sure to free it from the front of the grill before trying to remove the engine cover or you will damage the intake duct and have to spend roughly an extra $60 US replacing that duct. Also take care when removing that vacuum line from the PCV valve on the valve cover. It is rigid and can become brittle and easily broken. OEM replacement for that is roughly $110 US and if you break that, you will still be in the same place you are now, with a rough idle and engine revving. These are lessons that I have recently learned the hard way, and hope that no one else will because they will see my comment here. This said, this is still an excellent video and even after my hard lessons, I still saved $200 doing this repair myself. Thanks for posting this.
Excellent video and instructions. One shop wanted $650 and another $400. I am a locomotive mechanic. This video makes the job cost only about $150.00 for the part. Thanks again for the excellent training.
+Barry Munz Thank you so much for the kind words and the purchase of a valve cover. We appreciate it very much. So glad we could save you the money on labor.
Thanks. I just did this. I needed: -a lot of breaks after trouble getting engine cover and valve cover off (it was 30deg F so maybe why they were stuck), total 2 hours. - gloves and paper towels -T20 bit and torx driver for intake air duct screws -channellock pliers for hose clamps -flathead screwdriver for harnesses and prying ignition coils and valve cover -T30 bit for valve cover - plastic scraping tool for scraping old gasket pieces that were stuck to the cylinder head. -flashlight and needle nose pliers for retrieving pieces of gasket that fell into the cylinder head. -new valve cover -torque wrench and extension bar/bit adapter for 7 ft-lb valve cover bolts -nap
My 2010 jetta 2.5s had a rough idle, shut off while driving, and was clunky through gears. Shop told me the problem and wanted $630. So bought the part for 125 and watched this video and another. Super easy fix, took around 45 minutes maybe. Thanks for the instruction!!
thank you. Great instructions. I especially liked how you named all the parts you touched. paid 105 for a new cover and took less that an hour from start to finish
I replaced the valve cover with PCV Valve yesterday that I got from DAP at a super low price. I only had one problem and that was unhooking the connecting plug from the combination valve because the little plastic tab had broken off. It took me almost 2 hours to figure out how to use a 90-degree pick to literally, "pick a lock". The rest of the job, including replacing coils and plugs, went easy. My new-to-me 2008 Rabbit 2.5 has 147K miles on it and the valve cover gasket was leaking badly in the center section. Oil was leaking into the top of the coils and onto the top of the plugs. The plugs were still clean and the right color, so no harm done. I figure the PCV valve was at its life, so I'm glad I did the job. The car still runs great, burns no oil and gets really good gas mileage. I've replaced the vacuum pump brake booster gasket and the coolant temperature sensor is next. The car runs great and I plan to keep it forever. Who knew that such a little car would have a great ride? Love it!
Good video. One thing you may want to change in the future. ALWAYS start from the center and work your way out on the bolts, even if your just barley tightening. Doing the corners first can cause a crease in the gasket. The main point being, you probably know this, but someone who watches may not and doesn’t understand if they tighten those corners first it can cause problems.
The aftermarket diaphragm repair kits are just a band-aid. 2 to 12 months later, they corrode and tear. Thanks for this video, the entire valve cover replacement is the ONLY way to go IMO.
Changed spark plugs in a 2013 2.5L Passat today. 4 out of 5 spark plug wells were covered in oil. No engine codes or rough idle. Thanks to the video now I know the valve cover needs to be changed. Pretty sure O ring failure on valve cover may be PCV or both.
To everyone that has to do the above repair and/or have the P0106 code: DO NOT BOTHER buying the Dorman PCV valve kit for this. Total waste of time and money. Thanks to this video, I'll be replacing my valve cover tomorrow.
My VW 2.5L Jetta 2006 has 102k miles and it was time to replace the PCV Valve. It was making a weird whistle, increasing and decreasing the RPMs randomly, and throwing the computer codes : P0507, P0171, P2279. The Dealer wanted to charge $250 for labor and almost another $250 for the part. Another auto shop even indicated that I needed to replace the MAF Sensor and Throttle body, but that auto shop was wrong. The root cause was the PCV Valve. I replaced the PCV valve myself, and I saved at least $500. The gasket may be hard to pull out, but if you have the right tools, and enough time 1 to 2 hours, everything is straightforward. This was worth the time and money savings.
+Guido Arroyo mines also increasing and decreasing the RPMS with a rough IDLE. no whistle sound though....and fuel economy is bad....i disconnected that venthose that goes from the PCV vavle to the intake manifold and closed it with my finger and the bad idle stopped...also if i take my dipstick out the rough idle goes away, did you try anything similar before knowing it was your PVC??? already ordered the PCV unit hope thats the issue pain in the ass having the car parked lol
Detailed instruction with excellent audio and video. I could have ordered a cheaper branded part through Amzn, but your dedication to putting out these videos to help out people made me order through your site instead. Thanks! 🛠
After replacing the valve cover gasket on my 335i myself, watching this video made me laugh. What an easy job this is in comparison. Thanks for posting!
Thank you for the great tutorial, just replaced the valve cover on my daughters 2.5. The gasket had failed by spark plugs 1&2 and had been seeping oil on top of the plugs. Which I found when I went to replace them. Cheers
Same here. See my comment above. I was worried about engine damage until I pulled the plugs and looked at them. It shows the gasket is another reason to replace the valve cover when you replace the PCV valve. At the price from DAP, it's a win-win situation. I took great care in tightening the bolts in a proper pattern and then torqueing them to spec by working my way up in inch-lbs.
Thanks! This video helped my confidence in performing this task. I realized how loose my valve cover was and where my possible oil consumption was coming from. My engine idles much better as well... I also disconnected my car battery for about ten minutes and then attached it again to clear the computer, so it would relearn how the engine runs.
Just changing the diaphragm is not not changing the PCV valve in its entirety. Changing the whole valve cover is the solution for a long term fix dince the whole PCV valve is integrated with the valve. This is a common fix for a P0106.
Just did this for less than hour today. Bought an OEM PCV cover on ebay for $98. I almost went for the aftermarket by Bapmic for $72 but it had mixed reviews. I saw a large puddle of oil on the plastic protective cover and upon inspection, oil is draining from around the PCV cover. Hopefully, after changing this, that will be the end of the oil leak.
@@alfredbernal8603 yes. But it only lasted less than 2 years and it started leaking again. Then I decided to just replace just the diaphragm (that is where the leak comes from) that I bought cheaply from that website with a to z guarantee and it has been 3 years since I did it and I havent had any leaks. I answered your question several times but it always gets deleted. I dont know why.
@@jackhazz5777 Thank you Leo for your response. I did change the diaphragm twice but had no luck. For the past six months, i've been cleaning the map sensor, the pvc hose leading to the intake, the intake manifold & the throttle body. I also purchased a new Bosch map sensor. Code p0106 keeps coming back with oil on my map sensor. At this point, it time to replace the whole valve cover as it has a little over 175,000 miles on a 2009 vw jetta 2.5. I feel that the intergrated pvc has a build up of carbon and it is probably the culprit for the oil leaking through the pvc hose unto the intake causing to dirty the map sensor. I will keep you updated. Have a nice rest of your weekend!
@@alfredbernal8603 goodluck! The entire valve cover assembly is easy to put on. I hope it works better for you than it did for me. My 2012 Passat was135k miles when I had that CEL. So far, that diaphragm is holding up.
Hello again. FYI, and as expected, I have found some information from VW that provides a patterned, alternating tightening sequence for their valve cover. I respect the cover isn't tightened significantly, but I expect any type of engine cover ought to be tightened in particular manner. Just saying. Thanks again for the helpful video. It helped me complete the job very quickly, within the time it took my two kids to have breakfast and get ready for school!
@@The_Mixed_Ron_Swanson the PCV valve should be replaced. You can either get a rebuild kit for it for about $15 or just buy a new valve cover (its built in) for $40. Other than that, just spark plugs and any igniter boots that are cracked or brittle. I get my parts online from Rock Auto. Its a very simple job- one of the easiest of all cars.
I was about to purchase this part on Amazon since I got Prime for The Grand Tour but in the comment section a person purchased it and noticed it was a knock off. Buy genuine for sure!
Very good video, step by step. I was planning on using that aftermarket diaphragm but after the recommendation, I hate working double, i don't want to end up doing it all over again. I rather do it once and good, thanks for the advice.
Cam cover! and please tighten this in a cris-cross pattern starting from the center and working alternately to each end. This helps avoid warping your new cover. Cover goes on dry and clean with no sealer as in the video. Nice clear shots, thank you.
Hi Deutsche Auto Parts! Thanks for all of your insight! I am stumped here. I have a 2010 VW Jetta SE 2.5L. I changed the Pressure/Temp sensor a few times, replaced the pcv valve, and last resort, even bought and replaced the entire valve cover. Somehow, I keep getting the P0106 Manifold Absolute Pressure/ Barometric Pressure Circuit Range / Performance and P2188 System too rich at Idle Bank 1. It seems to only happen when it's in the lower 40's and 30's. It seems to be completely fine when it's in the 50's and warmer. Whenever the code turns on, I take it all apart and look in the manifold where the sensor is and there is oil in there. It seems to still be coming from the PCV even after replacing the entire cover. My biggest curiosity is this. I have been using 0W40 by Mobil oil because Mobil oil claims that is the correct viscosity. Could it be possible that it is getting into the manifold when it's so cold outside because I need to be using 5W40 instead of 0W40?
I wish I had watched this BEFORE purchasing my new valve cover. I would have ordered it from you instead. Excellent video. Very clear, concise, & informative. Much appreciated. Do you have a patreon account? I would like to kick in a little something for your efforts to make this, especially since it saved me $200 in labor costs.
Hey guys, great video! Everything is very clear, understandable and you guys make it very easy! I have a question. I bought a used 2012 Jetta 2.5L. It had P0106 code and that was MAP sensor. The car would accelerate with hesitation, and after I release the break the car wouldn't move right away. So I took apart everything I needed and took the MAP sensor. It was covered with oil. I replaced it with the new one. The car drives fine, but for a day only. Then same problem. I found out that it was getting covered with oil because of bad PCV. I ordered one online and replaced it hoping it would stop leaking oil. In two days again same problem. The MAP sensor is covered with oil again. Plus, I got P1288(or something like that) saying the system is too rich at bank1. So I guess since MAP sensor isn't working properly the system gets too much/too little air, right? Because of that the accelerates even worse. When I clean the sensor again and reset the codes, the car drives just fine, but for a day or two. I'm sick of taking the sensor off and cleaning it from oil. So does it all mean I need to replace the whole valve cover? Please guys, guide me here. I spent all my savings on this car and can't afford going to the shop/dealer since I'm a student. Trying to fix it myself. Thank you so much!
Good info. I'm thinking about replacing my Golf 2.5L valve cover as I found some oil on the 2nd coil & top of the hole. Can I just replace the gasket or should I replace the valve cover? Car has 130K miles with no other issues. Do I need to use a sealant when replacing the valve cover? Thanks!
great vid.. just ordered the part and gonna put it on my girlfriends 2010 jetta.. I believe this to have been causing other issues and p0106 code, the sensor was completely oil covered.. also we recently replaced the throttle body after it failed.. could this have been the culprit ?? ... any suggestions on the torque of the screws when tightening by hand... ?? not knowing how to gauge 10 newton meters...
I have the same engine in a VW Jetta 2012 2.5 SE. The oil leak appears to be on the left side of the engine compartment where the timing chain would be under. Would this procedure be applicable? And if such what other things should I probably be doing while I have it open? Do I actually need to buy an entire new cover or just a new gasket? I didn't see the gasket on your cover but I presume it was just stuck onto it?
I just heard about replacing the camshaft plugs while the valve cover is off. Can you provide any info, part number or video on these plugs which are prone to leaking as the motor get older?
Hello. This weekend I'll be replacing my valve cover. I'm surprised you mention to tighten the cover bolts in a "circular" pattern. Aren't engine components with multiple bolts usually tightened in some kind of "alternating" (criss-crossing) pattern to ensure even pressure? Or, maybe VW suggests the circular approach you mention? Thanks for the video.
either one it essentially accomplishes the same goal of evenly tightening it down. Thanks glad you like the video. Hope we can help you with your VW or Audi parts needs.
I agree. As a drummer, one of the first things I learned was how NOT to tighten the drum heads. Never tighten them in a circular pattern. This same physics applies to tightening lug nuts on a 5-hole wheel, where you should use a "star pattern". You tighten the primary chain case on a Harley-Davidson in a similar criss-cross pattern. Tightening anything in a circle will warp it if you do it hard enough. Also, finger tighten first in the correct pattern. Repeat with a gentle touch on the wrench. Repeat slightly tighter. Finally, repeat with a torque wrench. I'm not criticizing, just trying to help. Other than that one thing, this is an EXCELLENT VIDEO! I ordered the valve cover today. Mine is "sweating" around the perimeter and it has 147K miles on it.
I understand that the PCV valve only works by sending air flow in only one direction, I have already changed the membrane of my PCV and it has air flow in both directions, is it normal?
I have a 2014 model 2.5 mk6 which is an auto and after some time in traffic it shakes the cabin when increasing its rpm slowly from 2to3 gear , and after sometime it shows the 🔧 at the section where writes PRND After i turn the car off and on again it removes the 🔧 I have checked it for tranmission issues with computer and it doesnt show any error on the tranmission It shows only this P0106 (manifold pressure bar )and P2096 (poor catalist fuel trim) Do you think this two are related to the transmission? And in your opinion what should i do?
I seen your video on replacing valve cover on 2.5 eng. But you didn't check to see if oil was in the spark plugs area. How would you get the oil out if there were any
Great video. Hope my mechanic watches before replacement. Estimate $420 with $250 for part. Horrible design, need to replace entire cover for a simple mechanical failure.
Hello Deutsche Auto Parts, I'm replacing mine, since a mechanic did a terrible job on it. Would you recommend adding silicone or would gasket do just fine? Mechanic used silicone and i had oil leaking everywhere. I took cover off and there is oil inside spark plug well. What liquid would you recommend to scrape off the silicone around the cylinder head and take out oil inside the well, I'm afraid unscrewing spark plug and have oil go into the chamber. Thank you.
I have read on some of the forums that a P0106 code, which indicates a bad MAP sensor may be caused by the PCV going bad, allowing oil onto the sensor. I have replaced the sensor recently, and have just read the same code. Is this a likely scenario? How do I determine? Thanks for the video!
Have the same issue. Replaced the MAP sensor and did the Dorman PCV replacement - still have the code. The throttle body and MAP sensor are coated with oil. Will be replacing the valve cover tomorrow.
Install a catch can between pcv and intake manifold. The catch can will collect the gunk before the gunk has a chance of being directed right back into the crank case.
When you took the cover off I noticed the left side of the engine oil is darker then the right side. Why is that? Any explanation? I replaced my valve cover over the weekend and my the colors inside looks identical. Thank you!
I have learned from experience that a bad PCV will leak oil into the air intake and dirty up the MAP sensor located behind the throttle body. A dirty MAP sensor will throw A P0106 code.
I have a 2006 Jetta 2.5L manual that I purchased with 114k on it April 2017. Replaced the throttle pedal, cleaned out the throttle body, installed an aftermarket intake but my rpm’s are sticking at around 3,000 while I go through my shifting pattern (if I depressed the clutch rpm’s would stay there for 5-10 seconds before idling down). Was just at VW and they ran every code and technician called tech line support multiple times but could not give me any answers or solutions. Could this possibly be my issue? (I understand it could be multiple things but wondering if this is worth me trying and fixing myself?) Thanks for any input.
Thanks for this video, I’m trying to fix my stalling and rough idle problem. My car give a pop/knocking sound I’m hoping changing this will fix that. I have a video of my engine could you please have a look and listen and let me know what you think
On my 2011 that I have the cover was taken off and the valves look like they are all in place but if one is replacing the timing belt would it be best to replace the serpentine belt to along with the water pump to and at 230,000 miles?
2.5L engine has a timing chain which is on the rear of the engine (driver-side). Unless you hear the timing chains rattling, you only need to worry about the serpentine belt on the front (passenger-side) of the engine.
i have a question. what if the ignition coil has a lot of oil around it, on a 2007 vw passat, i would have to place valve cover right or gasket right???
Great video , need some help on a 2005 Jetta 2.5L L5 fi. Auto has been running rough was told timing chain jump a link is that possible with a engine with only 85,000 miles ?? Sounds not Volkswagen quality ? Is it possible ?
joe d there is a hesitation on excelleration some time for a short while, to correct I have to pump the the throttle a few times. any help is appreciated. thanks
Hey guys, I had P0106 code saying MAP sensor was bad. Of course the problem was that the sensor was soaking with oil. I replaced the MAP just in case. Then I tried replacing the PCV, the result was useless, still getting the sensor covered by oil. Then I ordered new Valve Cover hoping it would stop this mess. Plus, I started getting two more codes saying "the system is too rich at bank1", the car started running really rough. Today I replaced new Valve Cover, cleaned everything from oil, reset the codes. First 10 min driving was good. The I got the same codes saying that MAP sensor is bad and the system is too rich at bank1. I also replaced the coils and spark plugs. What else can I do? Is it possible that there were oil on the way to the MAP and that is causing the problems again? If I clean it again, would this help? I'm really tired with this "new" car that I just bought. Please help
Hello. Is a valve cover gasket leak related to a vacuum pump leak in any way? Both repairs were recommended to me. I've noticed a burning smell recently and very little oil in my car port. From research the burning smell may be a valve cover gasket leak. Curious to know if one problem was causing another.
Not related. but both are common issues. I had oil leak from vacuum pump. Replaced it myself, then still had oil leak from valve cover so now im doing that. Common VW problems for 2.5l
+Isaac Cesaire You'll need a Torx T-30 socket for the removing the vavle cover bolts, and a torque wrench to make sure you tighten the bolts to the proper spec. A flat head screw driver as shown in the video as well to help with removal of various components as seen.
Anyone know why I'd get a catastrophic failure after doing this? Engine cranked, appeared to idle for 2 seconds, then all the dash lights came on and sounded the notorious 3-beep warning. Now my car wont start.
Just subscribed. I have a 2006 2.5L that I have been getting things done to by shops that I know work on German cars. I have 145 thousand miles on the car, but have an used transmission that had about 75K, a new stage 1 clutch. I haven't had the timing belt changed on it or the valve cover. Would you recommend that now that the tranny has been replaced, which I believe should have been done at that time of replacement with the clutch.
The 2.5L does not have a timing belt, they have a timing chain. They are supposed to last the lifetime of the engine, though some earlier models like 2005.5 -2007 can have issues. Though I have 145,000 on my 2005.5 and have noticed no issues yet.
Yeah you would I had a guy with the same issue just all of his plugs had oil in them. Lol car still ran though funny it threw cylinder 2 misfire. Recommend you change it though.
@@ballinlolipop8621 thanks! Yeah it seems theres a few gaskets that may need replacing...novice here but can’t fully say the oil is leaking from one spot. Wish I wasn’t fuckin uneducated on cars
Hi I was wondering, if I have oil were the spark plugs are I was told to take out the spark plugs and let the oil drain down into the engine for like 15 min, will this be ok or am I gonna mess something up? Thank you
Sergioair V yea I actually took all the bolts off the top and changed the gasket and wiped it the best way I could put it back together , took out the spark plugs and waited for maybe an hour and changed them, there was smoke at first but my code for misfire went away!!!
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2.5L Valve Cover for Beetle
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Additional note, be very mindful when removing the engine cover/air filter box from the top of the engine. The example in this video has an after market air intake, so it does not show this, but the OEM air intake duct is connected to the underside of that cover with a spring clamp that is not accessible until the cover is removed and at the other end to your front grill with 2 torx head screws (#15 torx I think it is). Be sure to free it from the front of the grill before trying to remove the engine cover or you will damage the intake duct and have to spend roughly an extra $60 US replacing that duct. Also take care when removing that vacuum line from the PCV valve on the valve cover. It is rigid and can become brittle and easily broken. OEM replacement for that is roughly $110 US and if you break that, you will still be in the same place you are now, with a rough idle and engine revving. These are lessons that I have recently learned the hard way, and hope that no one else will because they will see my comment here. This said, this is still an excellent video and even after my hard lessons, I still saved $200 doing this repair myself. Thanks for posting this.
Excellent video and instructions. One shop wanted $650 and another $400. I am a locomotive mechanic. This video makes the job cost only about $150.00 for the part. Thanks again for the excellent training.
+Barry Munz Thank you so much for the kind words and the purchase of a valve cover. We appreciate it very much. So glad we could save you the money on labor.
I also purchased the valve cover from them and this install was very easy. thank you DAP!
some “mechanic” wanted to charge me 1000 for the task i laughed and hung up
Do you need to reprogram anything when you replace it?
@@Deutscheautoparts Can someone suggest a trick to pullout the combination valve back there?
Thanks. I just did this.
I needed:
-a lot of breaks after trouble getting engine cover and valve cover off (it was 30deg F so maybe why they were stuck), total 2 hours.
- gloves and paper towels
-T20 bit and torx driver for intake air duct screws
-channellock pliers for hose clamps
-flathead screwdriver for harnesses and prying ignition coils and valve cover
-T30 bit for valve cover
- plastic scraping tool for scraping old gasket pieces that were stuck to the cylinder head.
-flashlight and needle nose pliers for retrieving pieces of gasket that fell into the cylinder head.
-new valve cover
-torque wrench and extension bar/bit adapter for 7 ft-lb valve cover bolts
-nap
My 2010 jetta 2.5s had a rough idle, shut off while driving, and was clunky through gears. Shop told me the problem and wanted $630. So bought the part for 125 and watched this video and another. Super easy fix, took around 45 minutes maybe. Thanks for the instruction!!
thank you. Great instructions. I especially liked how you named all the parts you touched. paid 105 for a new cover and took less that an hour from start to finish
I replaced the valve cover with PCV Valve yesterday that I got from DAP at a super low price. I only had one problem and that was unhooking the connecting plug from the combination valve because the little plastic tab had broken off. It took me almost 2 hours to figure out how to use a 90-degree pick to literally, "pick a lock". The rest of the job, including replacing coils and plugs, went easy. My new-to-me 2008 Rabbit 2.5 has 147K miles on it and the valve cover gasket was leaking badly in the center section. Oil was leaking into the top of the coils and onto the top of the plugs. The plugs were still clean and the right color, so no harm done. I figure the PCV valve was at its life, so I'm glad I did the job. The car still runs great, burns no oil and gets really good gas mileage.
I've replaced the vacuum pump brake booster gasket and the coolant temperature sensor is next. The car runs great and I plan to keep it forever. Who knew that such a little car would have a great ride? Love it!
I successfully replaced mine yesterday thanks to this video. Bought the part from eBay for $109 free shipping! Saved me $$$ extremely excited.
Good video. One thing you may want to change in the future. ALWAYS start from the center and work your way out on the bolts, even if your just barley tightening. Doing the corners first can cause a crease in the gasket. The main point being, you probably know this, but someone who watches may not and doesn’t understand if they tighten those corners first it can cause problems.
i was thingking of doing a star pattern, thanks for the warning lol
The aftermarket diaphragm repair kits are just a band-aid. 2 to 12 months later, they corrode and tear. Thanks for this video, the entire valve cover replacement is the ONLY way to go IMO.
Changed spark plugs in a 2013 2.5L Passat today. 4 out of 5 spark plug wells were covered in oil. No engine codes or rough idle.
Thanks to the video now I know the valve cover needs to be changed. Pretty sure O ring failure on valve cover may be PCV or both.
Great video! Still helping people 5 years later, thanks!
To everyone that has to do the above repair and/or have the P0106 code: DO NOT BOTHER buying the Dorman PCV valve kit for this. Total waste of time and money. Thanks to this video, I'll be replacing my valve cover tomorrow.
Scott Mackintosh Hey Scott did this solution fixed your problem?
My VW 2.5L Jetta 2006 has 102k miles and it was time to replace the PCV Valve. It was making a weird whistle, increasing and decreasing the RPMs randomly, and throwing the computer codes : P0507, P0171, P2279.
The Dealer wanted to charge $250 for labor and almost another $250 for the part.
Another auto shop even indicated that I needed to replace the MAF Sensor and Throttle body, but that auto shop was wrong. The root cause was the PCV Valve.
I replaced the PCV valve myself, and I saved at least $500. The gasket may be hard to pull out, but if you have the right tools, and enough time 1 to 2 hours, everything is straightforward. This was worth the time and money savings.
+Guido Arroyo did you have a rough idle aswell??
+Shimisho111 . Yes.
+Guido Arroyo mines also increasing and decreasing the RPMS with a rough IDLE. no whistle sound though....and fuel economy is bad....i disconnected that venthose that goes from the PCV vavle to the intake manifold and closed it with my finger and the bad idle stopped...also if i take my dipstick out the rough idle goes away, did you try anything similar before knowing it was your PVC??? already ordered the PCV unit hope thats the issue pain in the ass having the car parked lol
+Shimisho111 sounds like your car is experiencing the same symptoms my car had. You may not experience the whistle YET.
will be replacing it end of this coming week and see how it goes! thanks for the reply , will give some feedback once replaced
Detailed instruction with excellent audio and video. I could have ordered a cheaper branded part through Amzn, but your dedication to putting out these videos to help out people made me order through your site instead. Thanks! 🛠
After replacing the valve cover gasket on my 335i myself, watching this video made me laugh. What an easy job this is in comparison. Thanks for posting!
Thank you for the great tutorial, just replaced the valve cover on my daughters 2.5. The gasket had failed by spark plugs 1&2 and had been seeping oil on top of the plugs. Which I found when I went to replace them. Cheers
Same here. See my comment above. I was worried about engine damage until I pulled the plugs and looked at them. It shows the gasket is another reason to replace the valve cover when you replace the PCV valve. At the price from DAP, it's a win-win situation. I took great care in tightening the bolts in a proper pattern and then torqueing them to spec by working my way up in inch-lbs.
Thanks! This video helped my confidence in performing this task. I realized how loose my valve cover was and where my possible oil consumption was coming from. My engine idles much better as well... I also disconnected my car battery for about ten minutes and then attached it again to clear the computer, so it would relearn how the engine runs.
+Dustin Clawson Awesome!! Glad we could help.
Just changing the diaphragm is not not changing the PCV valve in its entirety. Changing the whole valve cover is the solution for a long term fix dince the whole PCV valve is integrated with the valve. This is a common fix for a P0106.
Just did this for less than hour today. Bought an OEM PCV cover on ebay for $98. I almost went for the aftermarket by Bapmic for $72 but it had mixed reviews. I saw a large puddle of oil on the plastic protective cover and upon inspection, oil is draining from around the PCV cover. Hopefully, after changing this, that will be the end of the oil leak.
Did it fix your issue Friend?
@@alfredbernal8603 yes. But it only lasted less than 2 years and it started leaking again. Then I decided to just replace just the diaphragm (that is where the leak comes from) that I bought cheaply from that website with a to z guarantee and it has been 3 years since I did it and I havent had any leaks.
I answered your question several times but it always gets deleted. I dont know why.
@@jackhazz5777 Thank you Leo for your response.
I did change the diaphragm twice but had no luck. For the past six months, i've been cleaning the map sensor, the pvc hose leading to the intake, the intake manifold & the throttle body. I also purchased a new Bosch map sensor.
Code p0106 keeps coming back with oil on my map sensor.
At this point, it time to replace the whole valve cover as it has a little over 175,000 miles on a 2009 vw jetta 2.5.
I feel that the intergrated pvc has a build up of carbon and it is probably the culprit for the oil leaking through the pvc hose unto the intake causing to dirty the map sensor.
I will keep you updated.
Have a nice rest of your weekend!
@@alfredbernal8603 goodluck! The entire valve cover assembly is easy to put on. I hope it works better for you than it did for me. My 2012 Passat was135k miles when I had that CEL. So far, that diaphragm is holding up.
Hello again. FYI, and as expected, I have found some information from VW that provides a patterned, alternating tightening sequence for their valve cover. I respect the cover isn't tightened significantly, but I expect any type of engine cover ought to be tightened in particular manner. Just saying.
Thanks again for the helpful video. It helped me complete the job very quickly, within the time it took my two kids to have breakfast and get ready for school!
Moon Five can you link the information for the tightening sequence please . Thank you
Anyone watching this video as of this post. I replaced the diaphragm and had no problems with it. Not saving a few dollars. Its a huge difference
Just got a VW Passat 2.5. All new stuff to me and looks intimidating. This vid. helped to take the fear away. Thank you.
+Grant K (granto208) Awesome. Glad we could help. Let us know if you are in need of any parts we can help save your some $
this job made me nervous at first, but your excellent video made me 100% confident. piece of cake
It's a good idea to change the spark plugs while you have everything off.
Great video! Are there any sensors or hoses you suggest should replaced during this job? I just got one with 190k 😅
@@The_Mixed_Ron_Swanson the PCV valve should be replaced. You can either get a rebuild kit for it for about $15 or just buy a new valve cover (its built in) for $40. Other than that, just spark plugs and any igniter boots that are cracked or brittle. I get my parts online from Rock Auto. Its a very simple job- one of the easiest of all cars.
I was about to purchase this part on Amazon since I got Prime for The Grand Tour but in the comment section a person purchased it and noticed it was a knock off. Buy genuine for sure!
Random stuff with Erick Martin ummm why would you buy parts from Amazon? Lol da fuq. Rockauto.com bro. Get with it.
Very good video, step by step. I was planning on using that aftermarket diaphragm but after the recommendation, I hate working double, i don't want to end up doing it all over again. I rather do it once and good, thanks for the advice.
Cam cover! and please tighten this in a cris-cross pattern starting from the center and working alternately to each end. This helps avoid warping your new cover. Cover goes on dry and clean with no sealer as in the video. Nice clear shots, thank you.
Awesome video thank you I have a side job to do on a rabbit going to replace the valve cover looks very straight forward
thanks took me 30 minutes and saved $ 200 minus tax
Fwiw I just followed this video to Change my valve cover and it was spot on! Thanks!
Hi Deutsche Auto Parts! Thanks for all of your insight! I am stumped here. I have a 2010 VW Jetta SE 2.5L. I changed the Pressure/Temp sensor a few times, replaced the pcv valve, and last resort, even bought and replaced the entire valve cover. Somehow, I keep getting the P0106 Manifold Absolute Pressure/ Barometric Pressure Circuit Range / Performance and P2188 System too rich at Idle Bank 1.
It seems to only happen when it's in the lower 40's and 30's. It seems to be completely fine when it's in the 50's and warmer. Whenever the code turns on, I take it all apart and look in the manifold where the sensor is and there is oil in there. It seems to still be coming from the PCV even after replacing the entire cover. My biggest curiosity is this. I have been using 0W40 by Mobil oil because Mobil oil claims that is the correct viscosity. Could it be possible that it is getting into the manifold when it's so cold outside because I need to be using 5W40 instead of 0W40?
I wish I had watched this BEFORE purchasing my new valve cover. I would have ordered it from you instead. Excellent video. Very clear, concise, & informative. Much appreciated. Do you have a patreon account? I would like to kick in a little something for your efforts to make this, especially since it saved me $200 in labor costs.
Great upload!! VW service is always pricey, so this will help me save a good amount of cash. Definitely sharing your videos to friends who have VW's.
+Angel Osorio Awesome glad we could help. Keep us in mind for your VW parts needs. We can save you money there too
by the way it’s money I didn’t have it without your video my car would be down for an additional three weeks
Looks pretty easy, might pop mine off and give it a good painting
do i have to change the whole cover or can i just change the gasket?
Thanks. Just replace my just right now. Thanks for your instructions on this video.
Do you need to reprogram anything when you change it?
Save the $ do the diaphragm that’s my opinion worked for me 👍
Can a defective PCV on the 2.5 VW engine cause burning of oil or loss of oil making one think the engine is burning oil?
Hey guys, great video! Everything is very clear, understandable and you guys make it very easy!
I have a question. I bought a used 2012 Jetta 2.5L. It had P0106 code and that was MAP sensor. The car would accelerate with hesitation, and after I release the break the car wouldn't move right away. So I took apart everything I needed and took the MAP sensor. It was covered with oil. I replaced it with the new one. The car drives fine, but for a day only. Then same problem. I found out that it was getting covered with oil because of bad PCV. I ordered one online and replaced it hoping it would stop leaking oil. In two days again same problem. The MAP sensor is covered with oil again. Plus, I got P1288(or something like that) saying the system is too rich at bank1. So I guess since MAP sensor isn't working properly the system gets too much/too little air, right? Because of that the accelerates even worse. When I clean the sensor again and reset the codes, the car drives just fine, but for a day or two. I'm sick of taking the sensor off and cleaning it from oil.
So does it all mean I need to replace the whole valve cover?
Please guys, guide me here. I spent all my savings on this car and can't afford going to the shop/dealer since I'm a student. Trying to fix it myself.
Thank you so much!
Husrav Homids you need to replace your gaskets. Buy your parts from Rockauto.com they sell the entire gasket set for 98 bucks
What did you end up doing with the car?
@@Mario-iy7hw I ended up selling it with that issue still existing. Couldn't figure it out. Oh well
Good info. I'm thinking about replacing my Golf 2.5L valve cover as I found some oil on the 2nd coil & top of the hole. Can I just replace the gasket or should I replace the valve cover? Car has 130K miles with no other issues. Do I need to use a sealant when replacing the valve cover? Thanks!
great vid.. just ordered the part and gonna put it on my girlfriends 2010 jetta.. I believe this to have been causing other issues and p0106 code, the sensor was completely oil covered.. also we recently replaced the throttle body after it failed.. could this have been the culprit ?? ... any suggestions on the torque of the screws when tightening by hand... ?? not knowing how to gauge 10 newton meters...
Great production the lighting is awesome great quick right to the point what to do money saver man you save me a lot of money appreciate you
There is no mention of what kind of leak from VC. Does oil leak from VC? or just air leaks? any suggestion.. how to know if VC is bad?
Nicely illustrated, is PV C inside diaphragm? So buy Original PVC plus diaphragm?
Enjoy all of your videos, very concise. Coul to the this faulty pvc cause a lo oil pressure sensor code? Thank you
Very unlikely
I have the same engine in a VW Jetta 2012 2.5 SE. The oil leak appears to be on the left side of the engine compartment where the timing chain would be under. Would this procedure be applicable? And if such what other things should I probably be doing while I have it open? Do I actually need to buy an entire new cover or just a new gasket? I didn't see the gasket on your cover but I presume it was just stuck onto it?
I just heard about replacing the camshaft plugs while the valve cover is off. Can you provide any info, part number or video on these plugs which are prone to leaking as the motor get older?
Hello. This weekend I'll be replacing my valve cover. I'm surprised you mention to tighten the cover bolts in a "circular" pattern. Aren't engine components with multiple bolts usually tightened in some kind of "alternating" (criss-crossing) pattern to ensure even pressure? Or, maybe VW suggests the circular approach you mention?
Thanks for the video.
either one it essentially accomplishes the same goal of evenly tightening it down. Thanks glad you like the video. Hope we can help you with your VW or Audi parts needs.
I agree. As a drummer, one of the first things I learned was how NOT to tighten the drum heads. Never tighten them in a circular pattern. This same physics applies to tightening lug nuts on a 5-hole wheel, where you should use a "star pattern". You tighten the primary chain case on a Harley-Davidson in a similar criss-cross pattern. Tightening anything in a circle will warp it if you do it hard enough.
Also, finger tighten first in the correct pattern. Repeat with a gentle touch on the wrench. Repeat slightly tighter. Finally, repeat with a torque wrench.
I'm not criticizing, just trying to help. Other than that one thing, this is an EXCELLENT VIDEO!
I ordered the valve cover today. Mine is "sweating" around the perimeter and it has 147K miles on it.
This video is god sent thank you so much
I understand that the PCV valve only works by sending air flow in only one direction, I have already changed the membrane of my PCV and it has air flow in both directions, is it normal?
I have a 2014 model 2.5 mk6 which is an auto and after some time in traffic it shakes the cabin when increasing its rpm slowly from 2to3 gear , and after sometime it shows the 🔧 at the section where writes PRND
After i turn the car off and on again it removes the 🔧
I have checked it for tranmission issues with computer and it doesnt show any error on the tranmission
It shows only this P0106 (manifold pressure bar )and P2096 (poor catalist fuel trim)
Do you think this two are related to the transmission? And in your opinion what should i do?
I seen your video on replacing valve cover on 2.5 eng. But you didn't check to see if oil was in the spark plugs area. How would you get the oil out if there were any
Great video. Hope my mechanic watches before replacement. Estimate $420 with $250 for part. Horrible design, need to replace entire cover for a simple mechanical failure.
Hello Deutsche Auto Parts, I'm replacing mine, since a mechanic did a terrible job on it. Would you recommend adding silicone or would gasket do just fine? Mechanic used silicone and i had oil leaking everywhere. I took cover off and there is oil inside spark plug well. What liquid would you recommend to scrape off the silicone around the cylinder head and take out oil inside the well, I'm afraid unscrewing spark plug and have oil go into the chamber. Thank you.
I have read on some of the forums that a P0106 code, which indicates a bad MAP sensor may be caused by the PCV going bad, allowing oil onto the sensor. I have replaced the sensor recently, and have just read the same code. Is this a likely scenario? How do I determine? Thanks for the video!
I'm having the same problem. Replaced my MAP sensor (which was covered in oil) and still spits out the code p0106.
Have the same issue. Replaced the MAP sensor and did the Dorman PCV replacement - still have the code. The throttle body and MAP sensor are coated with oil. Will be replacing the valve cover tomorrow.
I did the dorman pcv replacement and cleaned my map sensor with maf sensor cleaner. So far so good. Been about 2 months.
Scott Mackintosh so did replacing the whole valve cover help? let me know please
Install a catch can between pcv and intake manifold. The catch can will collect the gunk before the gunk has a chance of being directed right back into the crank case.
When you took the cover off I noticed the left side of the engine oil is darker then the right side. Why is that? Any explanation? I replaced my valve cover over the weekend and my the colors inside looks identical. Thank you!
outstanding video. simple and explicit.
Ofc one of my screws snaps off stuck inside the block of the engine. Cannot reach a drill back there too
muchas gracias,,bastante educativo....también me ayudo el otro video de cambiar el filtro antipolen
I have learned from experience that a bad PCV will leak oil into the air intake and dirty up the MAP sensor located behind the throttle body. A dirty MAP sensor will throw A P0106 code.
What is the solution Friend? Replacing the whole valve cover since the PCV valve is intergrated with valve cover?
Any recommendations on how to remove a spark plug coil that won’t come out??
I have a 2006 Jetta 2.5L manual that I purchased with 114k on it April 2017. Replaced the throttle pedal, cleaned out the throttle body, installed an aftermarket intake but my rpm’s are sticking at around 3,000 while I go through my shifting pattern (if I depressed the clutch rpm’s would stay there for 5-10 seconds before idling down). Was just at VW and they ran every code and technician called tech line support multiple times but could not give me any answers or solutions. Could this possibly be my issue? (I understand it could be multiple things but wondering if this is worth me trying and fixing myself?)
Thanks for any input.
How about a video on replacing the thermostat?
Do you have a video on how to repalce a hydraulic lift on a 2.5ltr engine?
i AM WORKING ON A 2011 JETTA 2.5 W OIL LEAKING INTO SPARK PLUGS.. REPLACING THE VCG (VALVE COVER GASKET SHOULD FIX IT? RIGHT?
JD
Thanks for this video, I’m trying to fix my stalling and rough idle problem. My car give a pop/knocking sound I’m hoping changing this will fix that. I have a video of my engine could you please have a look and listen and let me know what you think
great video I have one question after the check engine light goes out do the codes clear so I can smog the car?
The little metal flap inside my valve cover is kicked out some.. Is this normal?
Great video!, still making it to the shop for the replacement but i like to know what they're doing to my car! =)
Thank you for this instructional video!
On my 2011 that I have the cover was taken off and the valves look like they are all in place but if one is replacing the timing belt would it be best to replace the serpentine belt to along with the water pump to and at 230,000 miles?
2.5L engine has a timing chain which is on the rear of the engine (driver-side). Unless you hear the timing chains rattling, you only need to worry about the serpentine belt on the front (passenger-side) of the engine.
When installing new valve cover do I need to put any RTV under the gasket or none at all?
Thanks
Levent Akkaya depends on the gasket type. I like PEL-FAM their gaskets are crush gaskets they seal as you torque
i have a question. what if the ignition coil has a lot of oil around it, on a 2007 vw passat, i would have to place valve cover right or gasket right???
Start from the center and move out when tightening the bolts
Great video , need some help on a 2005 Jetta 2.5L L5 fi. Auto has been running rough was told timing chain jump a link is that possible with a engine with only 85,000 miles ?? Sounds not Volkswagen quality ? Is it possible ?
+Jim Lyons Tough to say but it is possible that it has jumped time
I have oil in 4 of the 5 cylinders, will this fix the problem?
I’m just repleacing the valve gasket Do i have to use any silicone on the new gasket.
Great video, very well explained. Will try doing this.
joe d there is a hesitation on excelleration some time for a short while, to correct I have to pump the the throttle a few times. any help is appreciated. thanks
The only thing I’m amazed by it’s the fact that this valve cover doesn’t need any sealant, I’m shock!
Unless you skip that step.
No sealent needed as the gasket itself will seal the valve cover with the proper torque spec all around.🔧
Thank you for the detailed information will this solve my p0106 code?
Probably it will, i change the diafram but the code came back after 2 months. Now i will change my valve cover.
Is it possible replace just the pcv valve diaphragm?
Hey guys, I had P0106 code saying MAP sensor was bad. Of course the problem was that the sensor was soaking with oil. I replaced the MAP just in case. Then I tried replacing the PCV, the result was useless, still getting the sensor covered by oil. Then I ordered new Valve Cover hoping it would stop this mess. Plus, I started getting two more codes saying "the system is too rich at bank1", the car started running really rough.
Today I replaced new Valve Cover, cleaned everything from oil, reset the codes.
First 10 min driving was good. The I got the same codes saying that MAP sensor is bad and the system is too rich at bank1.
I also replaced the coils and spark plugs.
What else can I do? Is it possible that there were oil on the way to the MAP and that is causing the problems again? If I clean it again, would this help? I'm really tired with this "new" car that I just bought. Please help
Husrav Homids you need to replace your gaskets. You can buy the entire gasket set from Rockauto.com for 98 bucks
Hello. Is a valve cover gasket leak related to a vacuum pump leak in any way? Both repairs were recommended to me. I've noticed a burning smell recently and very little oil in my car port. From research the burning smell may be a valve cover gasket leak. Curious to know if one problem was causing another.
Not related. but both are common issues. I had oil leak from vacuum pump. Replaced it myself, then still had oil leak from valve cover so now im doing that. Common VW problems for 2.5l
@@tacsquid Thank you! Which of these repairs would be most important to repair first?
what tools do i need to do this on my own?
+Isaac Cesaire You'll need a Torx T-30 socket for the removing the vavle cover bolts, and a torque wrench to make sure you tighten the bolts to the proper spec. A flat head screw driver as shown in the video as well to help with removal of various components as seen.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge. Do you have a video on how to replace the alternator on VW 2.5L?
+Matthew Munyakazi We are sorry we dont.
2010 2.5 jetta pzev
Wiggled it out from the top of engine
Most people say to take off bumper
That bullocks
I have code p2177 on a 2012 Passat S 2.5L. The car won’t crank over and start. Will this fix my problem?
What's the torque specs on those valve cover bolts?
Anyone know why I'd get a catastrophic failure after doing this? Engine cranked, appeared to idle for 2 seconds, then all the dash lights came on and sounded the notorious 3-beep warning. Now my car wont start.
Just subscribed. I have a 2006 2.5L that I have been getting things done to by shops that I know work on German cars. I have 145 thousand miles on the car, but have an used transmission that had about 75K, a new stage 1 clutch. I haven't had the timing belt changed on it or the valve cover. Would you recommend that now that the tranny has been replaced, which I believe should have been done at that time of replacement with the clutch.
+Lloyd Carter Thanks for subscribing. Im unclear what your specific question is. Can you elaborate on that?
With 145k on the engine, should I replace the timing belt? Sorry.
Im also going to look up your site for other goods I want to update. Spring is around the corner for cruusing.
Lloyd Carter Thanks for considering us. I appreciate it very much.
The 2.5L does not have a timing belt, they have a timing chain. They are supposed to last the lifetime of the engine, though some earlier models like 2005.5 -2007 can have issues. Though I have 145,000 on my 2005.5 and have noticed no issues yet.
If one of my spark plugs keeps getting oil in it, would this be the cause of my problem? Would I need to replace this gasket?
Yeah you would I had a guy with the same issue just all of his plugs had oil in them. Lol car still ran though funny it threw cylinder 2 misfire. Recommend you change it though.
@@ballinlolipop8621 thanks! Yeah it seems theres a few gaskets that may need replacing...novice here but can’t fully say the oil is leaking from one spot. Wish I wasn’t fuckin uneducated on cars
Do you need any gasket lubricant or sealant?
No sealant or gasket lubricant needed Friend
where can I find a list whit all the torque specs? trying to torque the chain gearing
Tell me please where in the engine vw tiguan 2.0t tsi the crankshaft sensor is located?
Can you make a video to how to put a custom air intake on 2011 vw golf 5 cylinders please
Melissa Belisle Im sorry we dont have a car or an intake here to make that happen. Thanks for checking out our videos.
Hi I was wondering, if I have oil were the spark plugs are I was told to take out the spark plugs and let the oil drain down into the engine for like 15 min, will this be ok or am I gonna mess something up? Thank you
Michael Marquez hey did you fix your problem? cause I keep having oil in my plugs too
Sergioair V yea I actually took all the bolts off the top and changed the gasket and wiped it the best way I could put it back together , took out the spark plugs and waited for maybe an hour and changed them, there was smoke at first but my code for misfire went away!!!
Sergioair V good luck
Tks thats great another question did you bought the whole piece like the video and from where sorry its 2 questions
Michael Marquez so can finally get rid of the same code and not change a lot plugs
Thanks, very helpful.
You are the man!