I am imagining in 100 years, woodworkers will go to great lengths to replicate the lost art of traditional exposed domino joinery found in your furniture.
This was great. I am going to make sure Cameron watches this one! We have made drawers in the past using the same concept but there are a lot of good tips and best practices you have shared in this one that makes it a must see! ❤
Fantastic tutorial! Thanks for taking the time to share your knowledge. As a Domino noobie, I am enjoying your content. Whilst it is informative to see some of the third party accessories, Domiplate, and the Big foot doofer, I was pleased to see you demonstrating the additional stop feature of the supplied accessory. I'd like to get to grips with the tool out of the box before spending another couple of hundred on accessories I might not really need, or enjoy using.
Thank you Sedge. At 27:37 you mention a "really cool tip" when doing the vertical plunge in the middle. Either you forgot the tip, or I missed it. I have made a number of drawers using this technique. When I do the vertical plunge in the middle, I find it helps to not go full depth. When I have gone full depth the mortise is not crisp, probably from the fluting which you point out on the bit.
Good morning Sedge. I checked this morning after watching the video, and my vertical support brackets don't have flip stops? My domino was purchased around 2010?????? Can I buy the flip stops as an accessory. There is openings for them.
It's the Festool 495666, run $40. You hook it into the metal holes on the bottom. I assume the 2010 model had these, but I can't say for sure. (And seriously, I still love my apron. Everybody: if an apron isn't for you look for their new Sedgely).
Love the look you get with the Dominos. Just so people are clear, though, the big deal with Dominos is that when used in certain situation one gets a sidegrain to sidegrain glue joints, in comparison to what one gets using dowels. Dowels are often strong enough, but over time the cross grain dowel often pulls out. Biscuits have a similar glue-up advantage, but they don't penetrate as deeply, though when stacked they are immensely strong. However, in this application, the dominos are a crossgrain joint into the plywood, though it is a mixture of surfaces in ply, however, the domino also opens up a weakness by cutting away so much of the end of the side piece. So one is not getting much advantage in using this joint. One can argue they don't fail, but I have see butt joint nailed drawers in heavy tool filled drawers that are still together after 50 years. I just mention it because some people claim to be put off by the fact that they don't own these elite tools, but they should not be because in this application there isn't any magic happening.
I wonder if you could pin it together with the composite brad nails they make for holding down work on CNC machines, glue it up and shoot a nail where you're going to domino, wait for it to dry and then plunge your dominos
Sedge I recently built a set of drawers using your domino joinery technique. They look great. However, I tried using the single plunge technique for the middle domino and couldn't get a clean cut. It felt like the Domino would move when the cutter bit into the second piece. Any tips for preventing that?
Really like your videos but I have to suggest when working with the volume like you are that dados on a table saw is much quicker and easier as there is more carbide on a dado stack and generally more power with your saw. Pushing stock through a saw for me is easier and this is more noticeable if one were running wood not plywood. Just another way in all I am suggesting. Great stuff and please keep them coming.
Hey Sedge - what is that tool pouch you are using? Look like the perfect size. I'm not really a fan of shop aprons, but I've had a hard time finding a belt-mounted tool pouch that isn't too big or too small. Yours seems like the Goldilocks of tool pouches (just right!).
Remember, those plastic support bracket wings, when used as a reference for drilling mortises, can bend at least 1mm when you press the machine into place. Be sure to lightly hold the machine with the wing referenced on your workpiece's edge or your mortises will be off by around 1mm.
Yeah, I needed to make a bunch of drawers years ago. So I cheated, bought a pre- made 1/2" drawer side from Rockler. that had a 1/4" grove cut already. A 6" of leftover drawer side has made a great setup block ever since. Love Titebond 3 as my primary wood glue as well. I keep a piece of PVC sheet around to catch a majority of the glue drippings for assembly. Sorry I've missed the Festool Fridays for the last few weeks. Broke my neck and have been recovering from that.
Newbie here. Why rip the backs the same as the fronts/sides and go through the grooving step when you are just going to cut it off later? Why not just cut all of the backs 20mm less than the fronts/sides?
Then he wouldn’t have been able to use the accuracy of the domino to get the consistent 37mm offset. Since all boards are the same he can use the machines built in flaps to position the dominos all in the same spot. Hope this helps 😃
I was just groove to use the 37 mm offset... yes I did not need to groove the backs ....but if you use drawer stock pre-finished you need to see this step. Hope this helps
At 9:45, the discussion of Domino depth setting isn't right: It's not "half of 30mm" the length of the domino. It actually depends on the material thickness since it's a through domino. With 12mm thick material, a 15mm depth cuts all the way through the faces, which is good for the drawer's sides. That would leave 18mm as needed to go into the ends of the drawer's front and back (30-12=18). But since a 30mm domino is actually about 28mm long, you only need a 16mm depth of cut. I suspect there's either enough inaccuracy of the actual cutting depth and/or you're just sanding off any 1mm or less protrusion of the domino after assembly.
@@sedgetool It works for 12mm thick drawer sides, for the reason I stated, not because it's "half of 30." Thinner material and the domino will protrude and have to be cut/sanded down. Thicker material up to 15mm should still work, even if the into the end grain mortise is deeper than it needs to be. Above 15 and you're probably going to a thicker/longer domino and will need to think about proper depth.
This is exactly what I was thinking about when he set the plunge depth to 15mm. In the video he is able to hammer the Dominos flush into the drawers during the glueing process. So there must be some extra depth routed into the grain side of the front and back. I thought that this extra space is not provided by the machine but by the domino cut shy under its stated length. It seems both is true. Maybe someone can measure the cut depth of a Domino hole to verify? Would be interesting to see. Unfortunately I don’t own this lovely machine, yet.
@@bikemichel The Dominos are a couple mm shorter than their advertised length, and, depending on how your machine is setup, the mortises can be slightly deeper as well.
I am imagining in 100 years, woodworkers will go to great lengths to replicate the lost art of traditional exposed domino joinery found in your furniture.
I think that's a really cool idea.
Endless neuralnet arguments over whether the exposed dominos should be cut with old school carbide cutters as opposed to cold laser boring machines.
Thanks for helping us to work more efficiently.
Always learning something new. Thanks Sedge
You betcha !!!
Thanks for the tips on drawer construction-I will use these on my upcoming shop cabinet build
Glad you found it helpful.
This was great. I am going to make sure Cameron watches this one! We have made drawers in the past using the same concept but there are a lot of good tips and best practices you have shared in this one that makes it a must see! ❤
Thanks Ronnie ...I just watched your "20 Van Storage Tips" ...Wicked good stuff !!!
Nice Sedge as always very informative and detailed thanks for sharing!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Fantastic tutorial! Thanks for taking the time to share your knowledge. As a Domino noobie, I am enjoying your content. Whilst it is informative to see some of the third party accessories, Domiplate, and the Big foot doofer, I was pleased to see you demonstrating the additional stop feature of the supplied accessory.
I'd like to get to grips with the tool out of the box before spending another couple of hundred on accessories I might not really need, or enjoy using.
Glad It was helpful !!!!!
Love this content. Love from australia❤
Thanks Trent !!!
Great Sedge . Thanks for this Tips .
Thumbs up 👍
No problem 👍
Thank you Sedge. At 27:37 you mention a "really cool tip" when doing the vertical plunge in the middle. Either you forgot the tip, or I missed it. I have made a number of drawers using this technique. When I do the vertical plunge in the middle, I find it helps to not go full depth. When I have gone full depth the mortise is not crisp, probably from the fluting which you point out on the bit.
for sure
Thank you for sharing your experience
You're welcome!
Great lesson, Professor Sedge
Thanks, glad you enjoyed it!
Good morning Sedge. I checked this morning after watching the video, and my vertical support brackets don't have flip stops? My domino was purchased around 2010?????? Can I buy the flip stops as an accessory. There is openings for them.
Flaps are not available as an accessory ... but here is a link for the updated bracket..amzn.to/4hkQGTi
It's the Festool 495666, run $40. You hook it into the metal holes on the bottom. I assume the 2010 model had these, but I can't say for sure.
(And seriously, I still love my apron. Everybody: if an apron isn't for you look for their new Sedgely).
@@sedgetool thank you Sedge
@@kyleolson8977thanks Kyle
@@kyleolson8977the apron is the most used tool I my shop😊
Where did you get the green widgets on your Festoo quick clamps? Thanks.
etsy.me/3z3KFWI
Love the look you get with the Dominos.
Just so people are clear, though, the big deal with Dominos is that when used in certain situation one gets a sidegrain to sidegrain glue joints, in comparison to what one gets using dowels. Dowels are often strong enough, but over time the cross grain dowel often pulls out. Biscuits have a similar glue-up advantage, but they don't penetrate as deeply, though when stacked they are immensely strong.
However, in this application, the dominos are a crossgrain joint into the plywood, though it is a mixture of surfaces in ply, however, the domino also opens up a weakness by cutting away so much of the end of the side piece. So one is not getting much advantage in using this joint.
One can argue they don't fail, but I have see butt joint nailed drawers in heavy tool filled drawers that are still together after 50 years.
I just mention it because some people claim to be put off by the fact that they don't own these elite tools, but they should not be because in this application there isn't any magic happening.
ok
great content as always sedge love your ideas
Thanks Ian !!!
I read that the Salice Progressa specifies a 13-16mm material thickness but you seems to use 12mm ply - is that correct?
mine work perfect for 12mm
Love the Westside shirt brotha, respect
RESPECT .......
I wonder if you could pin it together with the composite brad nails they make for holding down work on CNC machines, glue it up and shoot a nail where you're going to domino, wait for it to dry and then plunge your dominos
Yes !!!!!
Sedge I recently built a set of drawers using your domino joinery technique. They look great. However, I tried using the single plunge technique for the middle domino and couldn't get a clean cut. It felt like the Domino would move when the cutter bit into the second piece. Any tips for preventing that?
make sure when doing this technique that the box is glued up....
Great method
Thanks !!
Any chance the US is going to get that tables?!
??????????
@@sedgetool The tablesaw that makes an appearance at 14:11.
Someone help! I live in ND and can't find that 9 ply plywood anywhere! Any online resources etc? 🙏
It is sold as Baltic birch or ...I have heard it called Apple ply or I have even heard it called Russian birch....
Hello from Devon England Wahoo. Make a cup of tea and watch the next episode of sedgetool mitre station 👍
Great idea!!
Really like your videos but I have to suggest when working with the volume like you are that dados on a table saw is much quicker and easier as there is more carbide on a dado stack and generally more power with your saw. Pushing stock through a saw for me is easier and this is more noticeable if one were running wood not plywood. Just another way in all I am suggesting. Great stuff and please keep them coming.
Good point, I'll have to try that out.
Hey Sedge - what is that tool pouch you are using? Look like the perfect size. I'm not really a fan of shop aprons, but I've had a hard time finding a belt-mounted tool pouch that isn't too big or too small. Yours seems like the Goldilocks of tool pouches (just right!).
Just type in “tool pouch sedge tool” in the search bar and two videos will pop up. One from 1 year ago and another from 2 years ago.
bit.ly/SedgelyPouch
Great video
Glad you liked it!
Remember, those plastic support bracket wings, when used as a reference for drilling mortises, can bend at least 1mm when you press the machine into place. Be sure to lightly hold the machine with the wing referenced on your workpiece's edge or your mortises will be off by around 1mm.
Thanks for the tip!
Hello from Australia
Hello
1:40 wrong 90. I still like you :)
ok
Xin chào tôi yêu công việc của bạn xin chúc mừng 🎉🎉🎉
Thank you
Yeah, I needed to make a bunch of drawers years ago. So I cheated, bought a pre- made 1/2" drawer side from Rockler. that had a 1/4" grove cut already. A 6" of leftover drawer side has made a great setup block ever since. Love Titebond 3 as my primary wood glue as well. I keep a piece of PVC sheet around to catch a majority of the glue drippings for assembly.
Sorry I've missed the Festool Fridays for the last few weeks. Broke my neck and have been recovering from that.
OOOOOOOO ... I hope you are OK Warren .......Speedy recovery !!🙏
That grin creeps me out
OK.........GFY........
Newbie here. Why rip the backs the same as the fronts/sides and go through the grooving step when you are just going to cut it off later? Why not just cut all of the backs 20mm less than the fronts/sides?
Then he wouldn’t have been able to use the accuracy of the domino to get the consistent 37mm offset. Since all boards are the same he can use the machines built in flaps to position the dominos all in the same spot. Hope this helps 😃
@@MattTaylor7 Okay, but why groove then? You should be able to skip that step?
I was just groove to use the 37 mm offset... yes I did not need to groove the backs ....but if you use drawer stock pre-finished you need to see this step. Hope this helps
At 9:45, the discussion of Domino depth setting isn't right: It's not "half of 30mm" the length of the domino. It actually depends on the material thickness since it's a through domino. With 12mm thick material, a 15mm depth cuts all the way through the faces, which is good for the drawer's sides. That would leave 18mm as needed to go into the ends of the drawer's front and back (30-12=18). But since a 30mm domino is actually about 28mm long, you only need a 16mm depth of cut. I suspect there's either enough inaccuracy of the actual cutting depth and/or you're just sanding off any 1mm or less protrusion of the domino after assembly.
do not overthink this ....It works over and over again...... Set the Plunge depth at 15mm and be done with it.........
@@sedgetool It works for 12mm thick drawer sides, for the reason I stated, not because it's "half of 30." Thinner material and the domino will protrude and have to be cut/sanded down. Thicker material up to 15mm should still work, even if the into the end grain mortise is deeper than it needs to be. Above 15 and you're probably going to a thicker/longer domino and will need to think about proper depth.
This is exactly what I was thinking about when he set the plunge depth to 15mm. In the video he is able to hammer the Dominos flush into the drawers during the glueing process. So there must be some extra depth routed into the grain side of the front and back. I thought that this extra space is not provided by the machine but by the domino cut shy under its stated length. It seems both is true. Maybe someone can measure the cut depth of a Domino hole to verify? Would be interesting to see. Unfortunately I don’t own this lovely machine, yet.
@@bikemichel The Dominos are a couple mm shorter than their advertised length, and, depending on how your machine is setup, the mortises can be slightly deeper as well.
Sedge, is Festool working on a new router table model? If Festool is working on a new router table model DO NOT reply to this message. 👊🏻
I do not know
Damn, it was worth a try. 😂 I would love a Festool router table next to my CSC SYS 50.
This was a painful set up and glue up to watch. 24 that same way? No thanks.
ok
Omg, to slow. Get to the point.
really
Orientated is not a word. Use orient intstead.
Just stop
OK ...Thanks
Intstead is a great word 😀
Aweful to hear
OK