Another reason why japanese denim is expensive is because Japan is a 1st world country where workers are paid decent wages and social security. Unlike low wages countries in Asia where most mass production clothing is being produced.
Are you sure about that? Maybe you should search the difficulty of living in Japan. They have comparably low minimum wages yet quite high cost of living over there. Whereas these “low wages” Asian countries you are talking about their cost of living is also low. It’s all about perspectives.
@@luceafarul579 yes that's true but you're not analyzing this deeply enough. Simple fact is Japan has better enforced laws on the books protecting workers rights and they are far more likely to be making a living wage than people working in sweat shops in 3rd world countries. Add to that social benefits like a great health care system and better safety standards and it's not debatable that buying Japanese made products do far less harm to workers than typical manufacturing. I'm sure it's not perfect. Examples of abuse can be found everywhere, but to imply that MIJ is no different than 3rd world manufacturing is utterly ridiculous. I get you're trying to be the "critical thinker" but if you're going to do that then you'd better do it the whole way or you leave yourself open to.... this. But by all means, if you have any actual evidence that working conditions in Japan are as bad as 3rd world sweatshops I'll happily admit I was wrong.
Huh? Are you talking about the Momotaro Jeans? That doesn’t make sense. I just watched a video of the owner of maker of the momotaro jeans say that they make all their inseams pink because of their name - Momotaro. Momo is Japanese for peach and peaches are pink. Momotaro is a character from a Japanese tale. TLDR - A childless couple finds a giant peach floating down a river and inside the peach is a healthy baby boy, who was named Momotaro. This is why there is a baby popping out of a peach on their logo. The video: ruclips.net/video/Re4_aM_-vks/видео.html
I also heard that Levi sold their original equipment to company's in Japan which is why Levi jeans are no longer as good as they where yrs ago but Japanese jeans are now
Great video and introduction to people unaware of Japanese selvedge denim! While most of the info is spot-on, point 4 (the Raw) is not really a reason why these jeans are more expensive. First of all, sanforization is a process done on the fabric by the mill, before it's being put on rolls. The only difference between sanforized and unsanforized denim is this exact process. This has nothing to do with 'pre-washed' jeans, which you mentioned in the video too, because a pre-wash is a way of aging the ready-made jeans in an industrial laundry by washing, distressing and whatever you can do to create an aged look. In fact, a pre-wash would make a pair of jeans actually more expensive compared to unwashed or raw denim jeans. Which takes me to my next point: the term raw denim means unwashed denim, as in, how the fabric came off the roll. Since sanforization has been done already before the fabric's being put on rolls, you can have both unsanforized and sanforized denim classify as raw denim. Raw denim simply means that the jeans have not been washed or distressed after they're cut and sewn into a pair of jeans. We (BENZAK) use a lot of Japanese selvedge denim, but it's all sanforized and still fully classify as raw. Another thing that's important to mention about the price of the brands you mention, is that they are in fact fully produced in Japan, as opposed to brands exporting Japanese denim to low income countries and manufacture the jeans over there. Minimum wage in Japan is similar to that of the US and many European countries, making the manufacturing process more expensive too. You're absolutely right about lots of these factories being family-owned with few employees and low quantity output, which makes it even more expensive. We actually do both, produce in Japan and export fabric to Portugal, to make our jeans; they have a different price point for the above mentioned reason (although Portugal is not a low income country, its minimum wage is still below that of Japan).
I live in Tokyo and these jeans can be found in selected shops, but concentrated in the Harajuku area. To actually see where most of them are made would require a trip to Okayama, which is several hours away by bullet train. The first "expensive" jeans I bought were Spellbound, which wasn't mentioned here but is a very comfortable wearable brand. For me, I would buy expensive jeans only if there is something unique about them, so I wouldn't really buy the remake styles. The only brand in this video I actually recognized was D'artisan, but I can't buy jeans decorated with cartoons of pigs all over them! Especially at that price. I do have a pig-less D'artisan shirt I like, though. I'm old enough to remember when ALL jeans/denim items were bought "cardboard" style and button-up (no zippers). It was always a long process of breaking them in; the buttoning could be a bitch at first with the stiff material. And by the time they were totally broken in, you were getting knee-holes, lol.
Love my Momotaro jeans. And I'm an old guy in my 50's that lives in a mountain ski town. You don't have to be a city living hipster to love these jeans.
Great video, very informative points! I concur that most 'handmade/traditional' Japanese jeans are expensive due to the outstanding workmanship and materials, but you got to know 'WHEN' and 'WHERE' to go to get them cheaper. I've seen the most expensive in Okayama Denim St (Kojima) and the cheapest in Tokyo (Around $170 AUD ). Where I managed to get each a pair of LEE (American riders 102), Kojima Genes and Japan Blue Jeans. The cheapest is online at 'RAKUTEN' during end of year time sale. Cheers!
@@Stridewise hahaha it can't be the accent. Americans love people with accents. You deserve more subs but I'm looking at it as a positive. There can only be so many well dressed "in the know" people in the world. And thanks to your channel I've found some really great brands that make me the well dressed one amongst my friends. Keep grinding and you'll get there brotha 👊
Yeah he really deserves way more subs than he gets. The videos are really professional quality, full of good info, ppl love that Aussie accent too lol. Maybe he just needs some popular person on RUclips to give him a shout-out 😯. Either way we love the content big 🐕
@@clamum agreed. I thought after Nick did some collaborations with other channels like Rose Anvil, Trenton and Heath, and Carl that his count would have went way up. Maybe ask people to sub and like more often.
@@treygreenleaf7878 I see that all the time, creators asking to like and sub, but I wonder how much that actually makes people do those things if they weren't already going to do them. I have no idea but I have my doubts. But I am no content creator so I dunno. I think someone like Antonio from Real Men Real Style could help him out, with a shout-out or collab.
@8:15. Interesting thing in those rivets on the pockets. 1)Yes, the 4 characters spell out samurai in katakana. Top is sa, bottom is mu, right is ra, left is i. 2) Also the rivet is in the shape of a circle with a square in the middle. That is the shape of old Japanese coins from the samurai era. That’s pretty cool.
Thanks for the review. Would be great to hear your thoughts on Uniqlo raw denim, it might be lighter in weight, cookie cutter and mass produced for many but it’s super affordable. I have a pair since a couple of years ago and I’ve had a good experience, although not very pronounced fades-I haven’t used them that much I should clarify.
Uniqlo jeans have their fabric mostly from Kaihara mill, somewhat like the Japanese equivalent of Cone mill denim, so their fabric is top quality and would not fray or fade easily. Though the stitching of their jeans vary as they are outsourced to countries with cheap labor like Bangladesh so stitching may not be as durable. But uniqlo is well-known for its excellent quality control so we are getting more for what we are paying full price from uniqlo
@@poisson5846 so far my jeans have been great, no problems of any kind with stitching. They haven't faded much, but I don't use that often either, so I can't tell much on whether they fade easily. They're great value, I agree!
Yes, they’re still good (no blows or anything)! They haven’t faded that much but I only use them once or twice a week. I think the quality for the price is pretty good, but fade potential low
A note on the shrink-to-fit nature of jeans and soaking them in water. I'd say only do it if you really want to speed up the process. If you want some truly great fitting jeans I'd recommend just wearing them for months and months without washing, and maybe get caught in the rain once or twice. Is it harder? Yes, but makes for super controlled shrinkage that will fit your body and keep the fades.
they will fade and the color/s will change over time in a way that's completely personalized and reflects you and your life. that's really the appeal of denim. the fabric you start with is only half the journey/story.
I have a high rise so every brand I've looked at does. My Onis and Iron Hearts are more medium rise but everything else is high! It's why I haven't checked out Evisu and Denime and stuff yet, they just don't have fits for this ass
Been wearing blue & Negros denim jeans on and off all my life, but had to stop wearing them circa 10 years ago due to major surgery on right leg, ( chafing of scar tissue doctors orders) , prior to that, I had warn them all , Levi, Wrangler, Brutus, Lee Cooper, Easy, Falmer, Farrer ET AL, but my Jeans were always LEE, the quality and style and fit were perfect. So back to present day , dipped my toe into the jeans wearing water and bought 3 pairs in three different shades of " life and glory " jeans, brand new for £12 each = £36, made in China but quality , colour and fit are superb , i say this because am well north 55 and it sparked my interest dropping on your show. Did not realize Japan made jeans! Good show man !!
As always Nick, another fantastically well made and information packed video! Thanks for all the work you do to ensure great quality and accuracy in your reviews! Edit: I've seen nearly all of your reviews and comparison videos about boots. Would it be possible for you to do one comparing Red Wing with some of the pricier boot makers? It seems that Red Wing is sort of the middle-ground in standings. It would be interesting to see what you would say the pros & cons are for purchasing either. Personally I've been a Red Wing fan for many years, but have recently been considering a few different brands or possibly a custom pair of boots. Hopefully many of your fans and yourself agree with this idea. Thanks for your time and consideration!
Your making sure you hammer in the knowledge and making sure any newcomers are not misleaded. One thing he forgot to mention was bleeding. You will ruin your white t shirts, white underwear, and white shoes because of bleeding.
I've seen you been doing Japanese jeans vids for a while but haven't really been very interested in them. I've been an almost exclusive wearer of Levi's jeans since high school (20 years, cringe) and like them a lot. But this video got me a little curious on maybe picking up a pair. What makes me nervous though is sizing. I can get a pair of Levi's 511 in 30x32 or 32x32 that fit spectacularly but I'm worried I wouldn't get that perfect fit with Japanese jeans which will shrink (by how much?). Plus I'd want to try them on in-store and I dunno if there's any store around me (I'm in metro Detroit).
Most jeans are sanforized so shrinkage isn't an issue, but you should expect them to stretch about an inch around the waist. You might find it easier ordering from a US based store like Self Edge or Blue in Green, that way returns are less of a hassle!
Start off with levi's shrink to fit, measure them first because they are usually a size bigger than tagged. When you get that right go to japanese raw denim. Remember to size up because they shrink. For instance i wear size 38 so i buy size 40 in their raw denim to get to a 38. Buy a size up in the one wash too because all the shrinkage have not been taken out.
This is very much a status thing, only really appreciated by other fans. As someone who worked all their life in the textile industry (including sanforizing technology) you would have to be out of your mind to spend hundreds of dollars on jeans that havn't been pre-shrunk without trying them on. Even then you have to know how to control the amount of shrinkage after you buy them. Just leaving them in the bath will give the minumum shrinkage. Machine washing and tumble drying gives the most, because it is the tumbling action that causes the maximum 'fibre migration'. The selvedge thing is interesting but you can produce denim of similar quality on wide high speed looms at a fraction of the cost if you don't mind 'cropped selvedges'. The most important thing really is the quality of yarn for the warp and weft, and no mention is made of that.
A few years back I got lucky and bought a couple of new Japanese selvedge jeans from a charity shop for £8.99 each. Another time I got a pair of handmade English brogues for £15.99 and six Gant jeans for a total of £26. I kinda like that shop and they only sell new never worn clothes but it is hit and miss because you never know what they have at any one time.
I actually wear selvedge jeans without cuffing them. Not that I have anything against the look, but I am not a fan of the frays that happen from the creases of the folds. I’ll probably cuff a softer, thinner, more worn-in pair, but definitely not a fresh, rigid pair.
Ok, I’m im my 50’s. This is how we bought our jeans when K was growing up. I loved breaking my jeans in- bleaching them to lighten the color , washing them with rocks and boiling water to get special techniques. Personalized and forever .
I don't think I understand why jeans being "raw" makes them more expensive. I mean, I own quite a few pairs, and I don't doubt that it for some reason does, but taking out the sanforization process should simplify production, rather than complicate and cause more expense, like making heavier slubbier or more expertly dyed fabric complicates production. My guess is that Sanforized denim is harder to sew into a jean that will shrink and still properly fit, or is harder to mount hardware on. I know that its discourages zipper flies because they wont shrink with the denim, but most of us weirdos want button flies regardless. That, and my unsanforized STF levi 501zs from when they were doing that vintage production stuff were definately not less expensive than the same fabric with button flies. That can be chalked up to levi's nonsense though, I guess. TL;DR I know "raw" is more expensive, but I don't know "why" its more expensive when it's mostly just skipping a step in production, to grossly oversimplify.
The vanity sizing explains so much. I recently did all of my sizing and realized my waist is 30 inches. But i wear size 27 or 28. So it makes no sense. 30 would be enormous on me. Now I understand what’s going on there.
Well, you don't have to buy Japanese brand to have a decent pair of jeans. I started with a couple of pairs of "Atelier la Durance" ( 14 oz denim, made in France.) 15 years ago. Then had a Blue Blood (Dutch, before it was know and bankrupt), one of the first Denham's ( before the brand was well known.) , Edwin's ( know for their cheap jeans in the 80's but now making top notch stuff), Japan Blue Jeans and currently wearing jeans made by the Grivec Bros. ( Dutch, 14 ounce selvedge denim.)
Loved the video and the explanations. Still have a question though : I got into the habit of wearing my raw unsanforized jeans without soaking : is there anything wrong with that ? I never wear them on a rainy day and I never wash them. Thank you in advance for your answer.
@Michael M If your unsoaked jeans never get wet or washed, then there’s no problem, except for maybe the malodor. However, if they do get wet, or washed, they will shrink and the fades, whiskers and honeycombs won’t line up the same, if you’re even able to get them on again. I’ve also read that your jeans will last longer if they are washed occasionally, because you’re removing grime from them that may cause the fabric to wear out faster. That’s why they always recommend soaking your jeans prior to wearing them. In my experience, sanforized denim also shrinks a little bit after soaking, but not nearly as much as unsanforized denim.
I love japanese denim, i will pay more money if i had too, but the most importanly is how they are looks on you, "the fit" i prefer to slimstraight fit or straight fit like ih 634 cuts, unfortunately you wore tapered cut apprently i hate those fit
I prefer buying japanese jeans in Asia, I wouldn't do it online unless I have tried them on before. The sales associate looks at waist, length, and leghole size. Mine fit perfectly and still fit perfectly. All the hardware is branded, they are like the quality of antique hardware. I love the selvedge details. Mine also have embroidery. It really elevates the jeans when you wear them out in South East Asia, but in the USA it is probably too flashy. That said, jeans are still considered construction workwear so you don't see them often in the streets of Asia unless they are kind of a statement. Although it does have a slight negative connotation if you wear them out to do business.
Very nice explanation. I have a pair of Japanese salvaged raw denim jeans. what I can say about these jeans is that you can own a pair your whole life they last a life time.
For a while I didn't understood the price gap. But I've come to accept it and can reasonably buy a few pairs. You need to have fun wearing them though or there's no point. The average person won't notice all the little details that make it special. Btw, Naked and Famous is producing a 42 oz monster! Currently in the testing phase. They make the craziest stuff.
Japan makes some excellent denims. In Japanese I have a 16oz jacket, a pair of 18oz, a pair of 21oz, and a pair of 21oz slubs. They're all sanforized and they've produced some really nice fades.
It's an interesting market where like if they're very worn and faded it's both more and less valuable, depending on what kind of buyer you find. Typically less though haha, I think you can sell for well over half though. r/rawdenim has weekly selling threads you should check out
Great information Nick from stride wise! Got some unbranded brand jeans in 21oz raw denim and they’re transforming nicely, would like to see your thoughts on those if a dozen pairs isn’t enough! Thanks 🙏
Those are not on the same league, right? Sort of half or one third the price of the brands shown here. Nick has a pair of Brave Star 21,5 oz already, which seems to be a good alternative to ub for a similar price. Does he need to try ub too, for any reason? He's got to enjoy his upmarket stuff all the way...
I got 3 raw denim jeans... Visvim from japan (bought in Japan, at half price than USA), Raleigh denim, and Burberry. Honestly... they aren’t very comfortable. So I hardly ever wear them.
They look very nice but the Japanese women's jeans tend to be sized based on Japanese fit models, i.e. very short in the legs. Thanks for the detailed explanation of the quality differences.
i was an evisu maniac. i had a pair of evisu millenium edition witht he 24ct gold button fly, i sold them on ebay as i was worried about taking a knee out drunk.
Great vid! I have one pair. Edwin jeans. Love them only thing is a made a mistake and washed theM and shrank about inch of the bottom. Really would like to start again with a new pair but any recommendations for and around the £130-£150 ?
Love that brand! Only complaint is they are not short women friendly and also I prefer button closures so it won’t have that ugly dome at the crotch, but they don’t make those for skinnies
Would love to get a pair of Iron Hearts but I'm not sure if their heavy denim would be something that is wearable during the hot summer months here in Hong Kong...😅
Thanks to you and some other youtubers, I now have a collection of about 15 denim items that include brands like Naked & Famous, D'Artisan, Oni, Gustin, Nudie, and Unbranded! And the best part? The cost of acquisition was in total less than $300 :-D
@@cristinelgheorghiu5294 there is a few video of I think it miyama Japan .. not sure if spelled correctly but look up birthplace of denim in Japan. Hope that’s helpful
Very interesting video. Personally I wouldn't wear those if they were free. My jeans have to be soft, light. European designers are the way to go. It all depends on what look are you going for.
@@dennisnordlund902 Better for what? I like my jeans to be replacement for trousers. They should look like jeans but feel like nice comfortable suit trousers. Yeah, their life span is going to be much shorter. But better is a relative term, right?
@@trdi well I’d argue better for that as well. A pair of well worn raw denims will feel like sweatpants and since they’ve formed after your movements comfort will be unbeatable. But, yes, better is most definetly subjective and that might not be your thing anyways. I prefer to not spend as much in the longer term hence my propensity towards quality garments. Thick, heavyweight denim is however not my thing at all. Have a good one!
"Cheap jeans like Levis". Depends on the country. We have Levi factories here in southern Africa and they are still over $50. Most shops sells Chinese ones.
Great video! I’m going to be in New York late March, if I only have time to check out one of the retail shops, which would you suggest ? Bonus points if it has other cool shit around it too.
Blue in Green definitely is the #1 store in NYC. Self Edge is also very good, though some will tell you to go to Left Field in Queens before going to Self Edge. If you are really committed to doing a selvedge tour of NYC, Blue in Green and Left Field. If you'd be just as happy with going shopping and having access to a dozen+ Japanese denim brands you'd probably never find elsewhere in the US, just going to Blue in Green and Self Edge i way easier and would satisfy you!
You can get them jeans in Thailand for dollars 😂❗ I was stationed in Yokosuka, Japan and those same Peter Pan jeans fit both males and females. Friends would take those same jeans to Thailand when we'd hit it up during port visits, drop them off at some side hut and have them make like 10 pairs exactly the same feel, color, stitching, buttons, texture, and ALL for less than a hundred dollars 😂❗❗ Get back to Japan and sell off the Japanese pair and get back more money just for wearing them! Had family in Texas send me jeans from garage sells and goodwill for less than$5 and sell them to these jean stores that were everywhere for over $90 and up.... also Levi belt buckles and Texas belt buckles from garage sells would go for $70 or more depending on styles and sizes ❗❗
i have tried most of the famous Japan brands and i really rate Japan blue. They are the more budget side shoot of momotaro but i think they still clearly have that Japanese DNA
I got a pair of Naked and Famous x Miansai jeans and was surprised how broken in thr already felt. Honestly it was a little off-putting to have jeans that flopped around so much when they were brand new haha
I just got a pair of N&F Okayama spirit 4 and they're rigid af! Semi cutting into the back of my knee but i know when they're broken in after a couple weeks they're gonna feel beaut
@@morebeersmoretears5514 Nice, I hope you get some great fades out of them! I've eyed those myself, but they're out of my college student ramen budget right now (Got the Miansai collabs for dirt cheap, only reason I could afford them)
It's also worth mentioning chinese brands like Bob Dong and Bronson/Non Stock. They also du selvedge raw jeans with varying weights for a fraction of the cost.
Another reason why japanese denim is expensive is because Japan is a 1st world country where workers are paid decent wages and social security. Unlike low wages countries in Asia where most mass production clothing is being produced.
100%
Yes! But Japan is in Asia bro
Are you sure about that? Maybe you should search the difficulty of living in Japan. They have comparably low minimum wages yet quite high cost of living over there. Whereas these “low wages” Asian countries you are talking about their cost of living is also low. It’s all about perspectives.
Living in Japan is more expensive than living in the states.
@@luceafarul579 yes that's true but you're not analyzing this deeply enough. Simple fact is Japan has better enforced laws on the books protecting workers rights and they are far more likely to be making a living wage than people working in sweat shops in 3rd world countries. Add to that social benefits like a great health care system and better safety standards and it's not debatable that buying Japanese made products do far less harm to workers than typical manufacturing.
I'm sure it's not perfect. Examples of abuse can be found everywhere, but to imply that MIJ is no different than 3rd world manufacturing is utterly ridiculous.
I get you're trying to be the "critical thinker" but if you're going to do that then you'd better do it the whole way or you leave yourself open to.... this.
But by all means, if you have any actual evidence that working conditions in Japan are as bad as 3rd world sweatshops I'll happily admit I was wrong.
A LOVELY VID! Fun fact the pink selvedge line is homage to Levi’s original red selvedge line fading to a pink hue
That's beautiful
The only two denim content channels I’m subscribed to are Stridewise and The Iron Snail. Everything else is pretty much watch oriented. 😉
Huh? Are you talking about the Momotaro Jeans? That doesn’t make sense. I just watched a video of the owner of maker of the momotaro jeans say that they make all their inseams pink because of their name - Momotaro. Momo is Japanese for peach and peaches are pink. Momotaro is a character from a Japanese tale. TLDR - A childless couple finds a giant peach floating down a river and inside the peach is a healthy baby boy, who was named Momotaro. This is why there is a baby popping out of a peach on their logo.
The video: ruclips.net/video/Re4_aM_-vks/видео.html
@@SilverStarOfTheNight you are correct BUT I am not talking about Momotaro or inseams I’m talking about selvedge lines
I also heard that Levi sold their original equipment to company's in Japan which is why Levi jeans are no longer as good as they where yrs ago but Japanese jeans are now
Great video and introduction to people unaware of Japanese selvedge denim!
While most of the info is spot-on, point 4 (the Raw) is not really a reason why these jeans are more expensive. First of all, sanforization is a process done on the fabric by the mill, before it's being put on rolls. The only difference between sanforized and unsanforized denim is this exact process. This has nothing to do with 'pre-washed' jeans, which you mentioned in the video too, because a pre-wash is a way of aging the ready-made jeans in an industrial laundry by washing, distressing and whatever you can do to create an aged look. In fact, a pre-wash would make a pair of jeans actually more expensive compared to unwashed or raw denim jeans. Which takes me to my next point: the term raw denim means unwashed denim, as in, how the fabric came off the roll. Since sanforization has been done already before the fabric's being put on rolls, you can have both unsanforized and sanforized denim classify as raw denim. Raw denim simply means that the jeans have not been washed or distressed after they're cut and sewn into a pair of jeans. We (BENZAK) use a lot of Japanese selvedge denim, but it's all sanforized and still fully classify as raw.
Another thing that's important to mention about the price of the brands you mention, is that they are in fact fully produced in Japan, as opposed to brands exporting Japanese denim to low income countries and manufacture the jeans over there. Minimum wage in Japan is similar to that of the US and many European countries, making the manufacturing process more expensive too. You're absolutely right about lots of these factories being family-owned with few employees and low quantity output, which makes it even more expensive. We actually do both, produce in Japan and export fabric to Portugal, to make our jeans; they have a different price point for the above mentioned reason (although Portugal is not a low income country, its minimum wage is still below that of Japan).
I live in Tokyo and these jeans can be found in selected shops, but concentrated in the Harajuku area. To actually see where most of them are made would require a trip to Okayama, which is several hours away by bullet train. The first "expensive" jeans I bought were Spellbound, which wasn't mentioned here but is a very comfortable wearable brand. For me, I would buy expensive jeans only if there is something unique about them, so I wouldn't really buy the remake styles. The only brand in this video I actually recognized was D'artisan, but I can't buy jeans decorated with cartoons of pigs all over them! Especially at that price. I do have a pig-less D'artisan shirt I like, though. I'm old enough to remember when ALL jeans/denim items were bought "cardboard" style and button-up (no zippers). It was always a long process of breaking them in; the buttoning could be a bitch at first with the stiff material. And by the time they were totally broken in, you were getting knee-holes, lol.
This video might be the best video not only introducing Japanese Selvedge but also the selvedge jeans as a niche. Great job.
Love my Momotaro jeans. And I'm an old guy in my 50's that lives in a mountain ski town. You don't have to be a city living hipster to love these jeans.
Great video, very informative points! I concur that most 'handmade/traditional' Japanese jeans are expensive due to the outstanding workmanship and materials, but you got to know 'WHEN' and 'WHERE' to go to get them cheaper. I've seen the most expensive in Okayama Denim St (Kojima) and the cheapest in Tokyo (Around $170 AUD ). Where I managed to get each a pair of LEE (American riders 102), Kojima Genes and Japan Blue Jeans. The cheapest is online at 'RAKUTEN' during end of year time sale. Cheers!
I have 3 pairs of Oni, 1 SDA, and 1 Momotaro. I really love the these type of denim. I plan to get a pair from every known brand.
First boots, now denim. My wallet hates me.
Next it'll be $1200 leather jackets. Someone save our wallets
That’s how it goes lol.
Brown or black leather jacket? I haven’t figured that out
@@albertoclonado get both? Haha. I'm more of a brown man myself
ruclips.net/video/lq8pB5GTUPE/видео.html
How is this channel not at 100k+ subs?! Quality video as always Nick
Maybe it's the accent? My hand waving? My infrequent posting? Rest assured Trey, it keeps me up at night
@@Stridewise hahaha it can't be the accent. Americans love people with accents. You deserve more subs but I'm looking at it as a positive. There can only be so many well dressed "in the know" people in the world. And thanks to your channel I've found some really great brands that make me the well dressed one amongst my friends. Keep grinding and you'll get there brotha 👊
Yeah he really deserves way more subs than he gets. The videos are really professional quality, full of good info, ppl love that Aussie accent too lol. Maybe he just needs some popular person on RUclips to give him a shout-out 😯. Either way we love the content big 🐕
@@clamum agreed. I thought after Nick did some collaborations with other channels like Rose Anvil, Trenton and Heath, and Carl that his count would have went way up. Maybe ask people to sub and like more often.
@@treygreenleaf7878 I see that all the time, creators asking to like and sub, but I wonder how much that actually makes people do those things if they weren't already going to do them. I have no idea but I have my doubts. But I am no content creator so I dunno.
I think someone like Antonio from Real Men Real Style could help him out, with a shout-out or collab.
@8:15. Interesting thing in those rivets on the pockets. 1)Yes, the 4 characters spell out samurai in katakana. Top is sa, bottom is mu, right is ra, left is i. 2) Also the rivet is in the shape of a circle with a square in the middle. That is the shape of old Japanese coins from the samurai era. That’s pretty cool.
Thanks for the review. Would be great to hear your thoughts on Uniqlo raw denim, it might be lighter in weight, cookie cutter and mass produced for many but it’s super affordable. I have a pair since a couple of years ago and I’ve had a good experience, although not very pronounced fades-I haven’t used them that much I should clarify.
Uniqlo jeans have their fabric mostly from Kaihara mill, somewhat like the Japanese equivalent of Cone mill denim, so their fabric is top quality and would not fray or fade easily. Though the stitching of their jeans vary as they are outsourced to countries with cheap labor like Bangladesh so stitching may not be as durable. But uniqlo is well-known for its excellent quality control so we are getting more for what we are paying full price from uniqlo
@@poisson5846 so far my jeans have been great, no problems of any kind with stitching. They haven't faded much, but I don't use that often either, so I can't tell much on whether they fade easily. They're great value, I agree!
Yes, they’re still good (no blows or anything)! They haven’t faded that much but I only use them once or twice a week. I think the quality for the price is pretty good, but fade potential low
A note on the shrink-to-fit nature of jeans and soaking them in water. I'd say only do it if you really want to speed up the process. If you want some truly great fitting jeans I'd recommend just wearing them for months and months without washing, and maybe get caught in the rain once or twice. Is it harder? Yes, but makes for super controlled shrinkage that will fit your body and keep the fades.
Great video as always bro 😎
A really great in-depth video, thanks Nick.
Interesting and some very cool looks on the coloration, but not enough to get me to purchase them. Thanks for sharing.
No worries! Glad you liked it Joe
they will fade and the color/s will change over time in a way that's completely personalized and reflects you and your life. that's really the appeal of denim. the fabric you start with is only half the journey/story.
Great episode Nick! Which Japanese jeans would have a medium or high rise? Hard to find them, and in my 50’s not too interested in low rise. Thanks!
I would look at Pure Blue Japan NP-019. Also size up. I am normally a 36, but I had to get a 38.
I have a high rise so every brand I've looked at does. My Onis and Iron Hearts are more medium rise but everything else is high! It's why I haven't checked out Evisu and Denime and stuff yet, they just don't have fits for this ass
Been wearing blue & Negros denim jeans on and off all my life, but had to stop wearing them circa 10 years ago due to major surgery on right leg, ( chafing of scar tissue doctors orders) , prior to that, I had warn them all , Levi, Wrangler, Brutus, Lee Cooper, Easy, Falmer, Farrer ET AL, but my Jeans were always LEE, the quality and style and fit were perfect. So back to present day , dipped my toe into the jeans wearing water and bought 3 pairs in three different shades of " life and glory " jeans, brand new for £12 each = £36, made in China but quality , colour and fit are superb , i say this because am well north 55 and it sparked my interest dropping on your show. Did not realize Japan made jeans! Good show man !!
As always Nick, another fantastically well made and information packed video! Thanks for all the work you do to ensure great quality and accuracy in your reviews!
Edit: I've seen nearly all of your reviews and comparison videos about boots. Would it be possible for you to do one comparing Red Wing with some of the pricier boot makers? It seems that Red Wing is sort of the middle-ground in standings. It would be interesting to see what you would say the pros & cons are for purchasing either.
Personally I've been a Red Wing fan for many years, but have recently been considering a few different brands or possibly a custom pair of boots. Hopefully many of your fans and yourself agree with this idea. Thanks for your time and consideration!
Idk why I'm watching this when I already own a handful of japanese selvedge jeans already.
Your making sure you hammer in the knowledge and making sure any newcomers are not misleaded. One thing he forgot to mention was bleeding. You will ruin your white t shirts, white underwear, and white shoes because of bleeding.
@@Itskindofalongstory4 oh you right, the bleeding of indigo is the bane of my white shirts
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Probably to feel better about your purchase
@@Itskindofalongstory4 I thought washing jeans in cold water with salt retains the colour and they dont bleed? Or am I thinking of something else?
Those oxblood Jack boots by Taft that you wore around the beginning pulled off that outfit nicely my guy 👍🏽 straight 🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥.
I've seen you been doing Japanese jeans vids for a while but haven't really been very interested in them. I've been an almost exclusive wearer of Levi's jeans since high school (20 years, cringe) and like them a lot.
But this video got me a little curious on maybe picking up a pair. What makes me nervous though is sizing. I can get a pair of Levi's 511 in 30x32 or 32x32 that fit spectacularly but I'm worried I wouldn't get that perfect fit with Japanese jeans which will shrink (by how much?). Plus I'd want to try them on in-store and I dunno if there's any store around me (I'm in metro Detroit).
Most jeans are sanforized so shrinkage isn't an issue, but you should expect them to stretch about an inch around the waist. You might find it easier ordering from a US based store like Self Edge or Blue in Green, that way returns are less of a hassle!
@@Stridewise Oh really, they'll stretch rather than shrink? Cool thanks for the info I think I'll look into them when I finally get a job again lol.
Start off with levi's shrink to fit, measure them first because they are usually a size bigger than tagged. When you get that right go to japanese raw denim. Remember to size up because they shrink. For instance i wear size 38 so i buy size 40 in their raw denim to get to a 38. Buy a size up in the one wash too because all the shrinkage have not been taken out.
Excellent review. I have several makes and you’re spot on with your remarks.
Nick, real nice, informative
I bought Levi’s 502 Japanese made and crafted selvedge jeans and it’s awesome...I really loved it💓
Damn, there is a selvedge version of the 502? I gotta get that! I really like the 502 model.
Fantastic explanation!
Thanks Cameron!
This is very much a status thing, only really appreciated by other fans.
As someone who worked all their life in the textile industry (including sanforizing technology) you would have to be out of your mind to spend hundreds of dollars on jeans that havn't been pre-shrunk without trying them on. Even then you have to know how to control the amount of shrinkage after you buy them.
Just leaving them in the bath will give the minumum shrinkage. Machine washing and tumble drying gives the most, because it is the tumbling action that causes the maximum 'fibre migration'.
The selvedge thing is interesting but you can produce denim of similar quality on wide high speed looms at a fraction of the cost if you don't mind 'cropped selvedges'.
The most important thing really is the quality of yarn for the warp and weft, and no mention is made of that.
A few years back I got lucky and bought a couple of new Japanese selvedge jeans from a charity shop for £8.99 each.
Another time I got a pair of handmade English brogues for £15.99 and six Gant jeans for a total of £26.
I kinda like that shop and they only sell new never worn clothes but it is hit and miss because you never know what they have at any one time.
Bought a pair of PBJ Snow denim and I’ve only gone 2 days in the since the beginning of the year without them. I could never go back!
Very good and informative video. Explanations are very clear. Thanks for making this.
I actually wear selvedge jeans without cuffing them. Not that I have anything against the look, but I am not a fan of the frays that happen from the creases of the folds. I’ll probably cuff a softer, thinner, more worn-in pair, but definitely not a fresh, rigid pair.
Interesting, eloquent and informative!
Thanks for the vid!
What a great denim education you provide, man! Thank you
I appreciate that!
Ok, I’m im my 50’s. This is how we bought our jeans when K was growing up. I loved breaking my jeans in- bleaching them to lighten the color , washing them with rocks and boiling water to get special techniques. Personalized and forever .
Man, you mean I can buy REAL jeans again!! This was much appreciated!
I don't think I understand why jeans being "raw" makes them more expensive. I mean, I own quite a few pairs, and I don't doubt that it for some reason does, but taking out the sanforization process should simplify production, rather than complicate and cause more expense, like making heavier slubbier or more expertly dyed fabric complicates production.
My guess is that Sanforized denim is harder to sew into a jean that will shrink and still properly fit, or is harder to mount hardware on. I know that its discourages zipper flies because they wont shrink with the denim, but most of us weirdos want button flies regardless. That, and my unsanforized STF levi 501zs from when they were doing that vintage production stuff were definately not less expensive than the same fabric with button flies. That can be chalked up to levi's nonsense though, I guess.
TL;DR I know "raw" is more expensive, but I don't know "why" its more expensive when it's mostly just skipping a step in production, to grossly oversimplify.
Raw isn't more expensive. Selvedge is.
The vanity sizing explains so much. I recently did all of my sizing and realized my waist is 30 inches. But i wear size 27 or 28. So it makes no sense. 30 would be enormous on me. Now I understand what’s going on there.
Jacob Cohen limited edition jeans made in Italy with Japanese denim... the best jeans made! $500-$700.. price for entry.
Well, you don't have to buy Japanese brand to have a decent pair of jeans. I started with a couple of pairs of "Atelier la Durance" ( 14 oz denim, made in France.) 15 years ago. Then had a Blue Blood (Dutch, before it was know and bankrupt), one of the first Denham's ( before the brand was well known.) , Edwin's ( know for their cheap jeans in the 80's but now making top notch stuff), Japan Blue Jeans and currently wearing jeans made by the Grivec Bros. ( Dutch, 14 ounce selvedge denim.)
Fascinating information ℹ️ Delighted I have a new idea for my next pair 😊
Loved the video and the explanations. Still have a question though : I got into the habit of wearing my raw unsanforized jeans without soaking : is there anything wrong with that ? I never wear them on a rainy day and I never wash them. Thank you in advance for your answer.
@Michael M If your unsoaked jeans never get wet or washed, then there’s no problem, except for maybe the malodor. However, if they do get wet, or washed, they will shrink and the fades, whiskers and honeycombs won’t line up the same, if you’re even able to get them on again. I’ve also read that your jeans will last longer if they are washed occasionally, because you’re removing grime from them that may cause the fabric to wear out faster.
That’s why they always recommend soaking your jeans prior to wearing them. In my experience, sanforized denim also shrinks a little bit after soaking, but not nearly as much as unsanforized denim.
What makes the black henley your wearing in the outside shots?
Nice content, so informative.thanks
the jeans by Levi's I wore in the 1960s when I was a teenager, were affordable even for a kid in high school.
I love japanese denim, i will pay more money if i had too, but the most importanly is how they are looks on you, "the fit" i prefer to slimstraight fit or straight fit like ih 634 cuts, unfortunately you wore tapered cut apprently i hate those fit
Hahah and I hate straight fits, but we can both hold hands and be friends
I prefer buying japanese jeans in Asia, I wouldn't do it online unless I have tried them on before. The sales associate looks at waist, length, and leghole size. Mine fit perfectly and still fit perfectly. All the hardware is branded, they are like the quality of antique hardware. I love the selvedge details. Mine also have embroidery. It really elevates the jeans when you wear them out in South East Asia, but in the USA it is probably too flashy. That said, jeans are still considered construction workwear so you don't see them often in the streets of Asia unless they are kind of a statement. Although it does have a slight negative connotation if you wear them out to do business.
Sure, I mean that all seems fairly true across cultures. I'm lucky I'm in NYC where I can try pants on at Blue in Green and Self Edge first!
Great vid nick
Oh thanks Dan!
How about LVC. Love to see a video to compare the Japanese jeans vs US brand.
I've only had one pair of Japanese denim jeans, and they wore out faster than any pair I've had. The Brand was Edwin.
Very nice explanation. I have a pair of Japanese salvaged raw denim jeans. what I can say about these jeans is that you can own a pair your whole life they last a life time.
For a while I didn't understood the price gap. But I've come to accept it and can reasonably buy a few pairs. You need to have fun wearing them though or there's no point. The average person won't notice all the little details that make it special. Btw, Naked and Famous is producing a 42 oz monster! Currently in the testing phase. They make the craziest stuff.
Bravestar selvedge is the only denim for me. You cannot beat them.
Great video!
What boots at 3:36?
SOLD! Gonna go drop the same amount on 10 pairs of pants as I'd spend on buying a used Honda Accord.
That was really informative. Nice work!
Much appreciated Quentin!
Mm. I learned something new today and it's 5 am..
Good start to my day.
Thanks.
Where you get the pink /blue flannel ! Love it !! Love to have one too Thanks for video
Oh thanks man! That's from Faherty, I don't think they make it anymore but I'm sure you can find something similar
actually I'm selling this if you want it Jamie, let me know
Japan makes some excellent denims. In Japanese I have a 16oz jacket, a pair of 18oz, a pair of 21oz, and a pair of 21oz slubs. They're all sanforized and they've produced some really nice fades.
Thanks for the vid! Please tell me, whats your favourite model in tanuki?!
Thanks for the info.
Great show thank you 🙏
What's the shade on that Tanuki jean? It's gorgeous
Kaze! I did a video on them here ruclips.net/video/dFekEzrPywY/видео.html
How much did your jeans shrink after you washed them?
Dude, I had no idea!! How is the resale market? What do they go for generally, used? 50% of new? 80%?
It's an interesting market where like if they're very worn and faded it's both more and less valuable, depending on what kind of buyer you find. Typically less though haha, I think you can sell for well over half though. r/rawdenim has weekly selling threads you should check out
Very informative !
Glad it was helpful Robert!
What do you recommend BIG or Self Edge in NY? What’s the difference? Thanks
Great information
Glad you liked it Johnra
Great information Nick from stride wise! Got some unbranded brand jeans in 21oz raw denim and they’re transforming nicely, would like to see your thoughts on those if a dozen pairs isn’t enough! Thanks 🙏
Those are not on the same league, right? Sort of half or one third the price of the brands shown here. Nick has a pair of Brave Star 21,5 oz already, which seems to be a good alternative to ub for a similar price. Does he need to try ub too, for any reason? He's got to enjoy his upmarket stuff all the way...
@@yaroslavmaiboroda405 when he reviews denim and heritage style clothing and footwear, I’d say he could give them a go 👍 up to him though.
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I got 3 raw denim jeans... Visvim from japan (bought in Japan, at half price than USA), Raleigh denim, and Burberry. Honestly... they aren’t very comfortable. So I hardly ever wear them.
You should wear them more often , and not wash it . It gets comfortable, it takes your shape . But raw jeans takes time .
They look very nice but the Japanese women's jeans tend to be sized based on Japanese fit models, i.e. very short in the legs. Thanks for the detailed explanation of the quality differences.
I never knew how boss Japanese denim was til recently. Wow.
like most japanese products =)
i was an evisu maniac. i had a pair of evisu millenium edition witht he 24ct gold button fly, i sold them on ebay as i was worried about taking a knee out drunk.
Absolutely fascinating!!! 😃
Glad you think so!
Great vid!
I have one pair. Edwin jeans. Love them only thing is a made a mistake and washed theM and shrank about inch of the bottom. Really would like to start again with a new pair but any recommendations for and around the £130-£150 ?
ruclips.net/video/lq8pB5GTUPE/видео.html
A lot of your points apply to USA selvedge and N&F as well.
Love that brand! Only complaint is they are not short women friendly and also I prefer button closures so it won’t have that ugly dome at the crotch, but they don’t make those for skinnies
Good info, Nick. Thanks :-)
What brand is your bomber jacket?
Thursday! Satchel & Page have a similar one if Thursday is sold out, they usually are of that one
@@Stridewise Cool beans thanks, any conditioners/oils you'd recommend for maintaining these kinds of jackets?
@@Stridewise you should get an aero leather or Eastman one
Would love to get a pair of Iron Hearts but I'm not sure if their heavy denim would be something that is wearable during the hot summer months here in Hong Kong...😅
Thanks to you and some other youtubers, I now have a collection of about 15 denim items that include brands like Naked & Famous, D'Artisan, Oni, Gustin, Nudie, and Unbranded! And the best part? The cost of acquisition was in total less than $300 :-D
There is a whole street dedicated to jeans in Japan!! The quality of the jeans handmade!
Whats the name of that street and which town? I live in Korea and might visit Japan as soon as this pandemic restrictions will easy off !
@@cristinelgheorghiu5294 I saw that on a video.. I can’t recall the name but it was awesome. Look up jeans in Japan see if video comes up .. ❤️
@@cristinelgheorghiu5294 there is a few video of I think it miyama Japan .. not sure if spelled correctly but look up birthplace of denim in Japan. Hope that’s helpful
@@cristinelgheorghiu5294 There are denim town in Okayama prefecture.
Very interesting video. Personally I wouldn't wear those if they were free. My jeans have to be soft, light. European designers are the way to go. It all depends on what look are you going for.
There are plenty of soft and light japanese denim and they’re always gonna be better.
@@dennisnordlund902 Better for what? I like my jeans to be replacement for trousers. They should look like jeans but feel like nice comfortable suit trousers. Yeah, their life span is going to be much shorter. But better is a relative term, right?
@@trdi well I’d argue better for that as well. A pair of well worn raw denims will feel like sweatpants and since they’ve formed after your movements comfort will be unbeatable.
But, yes, better is most definetly subjective and that might not be your thing anyways. I prefer to not spend as much in the longer term hence my propensity towards quality garments. Thick, heavyweight denim is however not my thing at all.
Have a good one!
7 reasons
1) because
2) they
3) are
4) made
5) in
6) Japan
7)..... ahhh.... period!
Well, no
I have a pair of Edwin Japan that I got around 1995. I wash them once in a year but then I don’t wear them that often 😂
"Cheap jeans like Levis". Depends on the country. We have Levi factories here in southern Africa and they are still over $50. Most shops sells Chinese ones.
Yeah we’re getting fucked over by paying R1000 and more for shitty quality jeans
Interesting, I used to weave carbon fiber on old Draper shuttle looms. It was a fun gig
Great Review, perfect for newbies to the Japanese Denim Community..... next review needs to be best matched Red Wings with Japanese denim....
Great video!
I’m going to be in New York late March, if I only have time to check out one of the retail shops, which would you suggest ? Bonus points if it has other cool shit around it too.
Blue in Green definitely is the #1 store in NYC. Self Edge is also very good, though some will tell you to go to Left Field in Queens before going to Self Edge. If you are really committed to doing a selvedge tour of NYC, Blue in Green and Left Field. If you'd be just as happy with going shopping and having access to a dozen+ Japanese denim brands you'd probably never find elsewhere in the US, just going to Blue in Green and Self Edge i way easier and would satisfy you!
@@Stridewise hell yah, thanks for the advice!
There’s also Nudie Jeans and Naked and Famous, well worth checking out in Bowery and SoHo
Hi, is Momotara Jeans true to size? Like I am 30 inches waist is going to order 30 inches for momotara??
Ooh, I want to try one!
you are the only person online ive seen do he popsicle squat. i do it all the time.
benefits of being too broke to afford a gym for many years haha, got good at pistol squats and pull ups
Just yesterday I watched documentary about momotaro jean, then your video pop-up.
ruclips.net/video/lq8pB5GTUPE/видео.html
kewl video dude... im never gona bite that bullet.... but the more you know.. great content... thank you
Where can I buy Japanese denim. No links ???
Naked and Famous is a good starting point tateandyoko.com/collections/naked-and-famous/jeans
I got some TSubi from Australia made with these gorgeous jeans
You can get them jeans in Thailand for dollars 😂❗ I was stationed in Yokosuka, Japan and those same Peter Pan jeans fit both males and females. Friends would take those same jeans to Thailand when we'd hit it up during port visits, drop them off at some side hut and have them make like 10 pairs exactly the same feel, color, stitching, buttons, texture, and ALL for less than a hundred dollars 😂❗❗ Get back to Japan and sell off the Japanese pair and get back more money just for wearing them! Had family in Texas send me jeans from garage sells and goodwill for less than$5 and sell them to these jean stores that were everywhere for over $90 and up.... also Levi belt buckles and Texas belt buckles from garage sells would go for $70 or more depending on styles and sizes ❗❗
i have tried most of the famous Japan brands and i really rate Japan blue. They are the more budget side shoot of momotaro but i think they still clearly have that Japanese DNA
I haven't found the right fit for Japan Blue but I'd love to try them
I got a pair of Naked and Famous x Miansai jeans and was surprised how broken in thr already felt. Honestly it was a little off-putting to have jeans that flopped around so much when they were brand new haha
I just got a pair of N&F Okayama spirit 4 and they're rigid af! Semi cutting into the back of my knee but i know when they're broken in after a couple weeks they're gonna feel beaut
@@morebeersmoretears5514 Nice, I hope you get some great fades out of them! I've eyed those myself, but they're out of my college student ramen budget right now (Got the Miansai collabs for dirt cheap, only reason I could afford them)
The cuffed jeans is a look unto itself, salvage or not.
Yeah a terrible look. Very douchy.
It's also worth mentioning chinese brands like Bob Dong and Bronson/Non Stock. They also du selvedge raw jeans with varying weights for a fraction of the cost.
Very cool stuff