Green wood can be a major risk of a chimney fire which could spread to your house. I burnt wood that was not fully cured for the past two winters (I didn't have a choice) and found an awful creosote mess in my woodstove, stovepipe and chimney. I'm trying to get my firewood into a rotation where any newly delivered firewood gets put onto pallets outside to fully cure for a few months or more, and the wood that has sat outside form any amount of time gets moved into the woodshed to be ready to burn. A lot of moving it around, but better burn results and safer too. Great video!
Thanks for your comment. I have large piles of wood, but unless it’s dry, it’s not going anywhere near my Woodburner. There’s little point putting in all the effort to cut, split stack, move, stack again and move again only to have it burn in a lacklustre way. When I burn wood, I want it to give off heat, and lots of it, given the effort to get it into my grate. If it’s not ready, I’m waiting until it is, even if that means buying in dry firewood, as much as it peeves me to pay for fuel when I have so much in my garden. I’m planning to build a shelter to store the wood when dry. I will season it outdoors with a plastic sheeting cover, and once dry in the autumn, I’ll be putting them in the woodstore. I see these log stores which open faced and cost about the same as a shed. Why not buy a shed.
South Mississippi here. The drought experienced during the 2023 summer really put my drying time in the fast lane. I have racks of both oak and pecan, all metering at 10% or less. Curious to note, the oak dried and seasoned quicker than the pecan. Not sure why, but I thought it would be just the opposite. Thanks for your post. Very informative.
Yes lots of people have no clue buyers and sellers about how dry the wood should be. Great explanation👍 Is that length of the log normal for you? Normal here is 16”
Thanks. Here in the UK most log burners are 5kW and pretty shallow, just for keeping the sitting room cost rather than heating the whole house, so a 10” log is pretty standard. Mine are a mixture depending on what the tree guys chopped up 🤭. I try to be more consistent when cutting as it helps with stacking. Whereabouts are you based?
@@outdoorsinthe608 looks like you have a similar climate to the UK…. It’s -2C here at the moment but it’s normally not this cold thanks to the jet stream. I’ve subscribed to your channel too! Have a Good Friday!
Creosote problem is waaay over-dramatized. If your stove is a fast burning high efficiency stove (that is it must have a fire grate) then the moisture doesn't matter. I used to burn freshly cut wood quite often and if the fire is already fiercely burning there's no problem in feeding it with even soaking wet firewood. You just have to use dry wood from time to time for really hot "cleaning" fire (aspen is very good for this "cleaning" burn) and clean the pipe somewhat more often. It's a different story if your stove is a slow burning stove (sometimes called "pyrolysis" stove) - without the fire grate (so the fresh air can't "feed" the fire from below the wood). They are inefficient (in purely physical terms) and emit much more CO to the atmosphere but who cares if they keep you warm 2-3 longer than efficient grate-equipped stoves (with the same amount of wood). Yes you can add the wet wood if the stove is already hot but those stoves are known to clog up the pipes quite quickly so... just clean the chimney more often. You have to do it anyway even with the hottest of the stoves and driest of the firewoods.
Thanks for your comment. Good to hear these issues are overstated. I’ve certainly not worried about it. I only want to burn dry wood because burning wet wood seems like such a waste of effort, when half the energy in the log goes up the chimney as steam…. All that moving, chopping, stacking, moving, moving and finally burning….if it doesn’t yield a lot of heat quite frankly you may as well not have bothered!
B.S. If you like devices, fine. Experience for those using firewood seriously means one learns to season. Here's what one does: Splits will check on ends. The logs split will be lighter than when green. Many wood species will grey over time seasoning. Banging two splits together will often "ring" like baseball bats. And, in the wood stove unseasoned logs will sizzle. The moisture meters are not accurate for firewood. They do break. JMNSHO from decades heating with self harvested firewood.
Thanks for your experience, really helpful. I agree about the timbre of the wood when you knock it together. It resonates. I’m a relatively newcomer to seasoning and burning wood so always happy to learn more tricks. We have a 1 acre garden with plenty of trees which need work so always wood about to season and burn. The moisture meter may not be accurate, but it is more scientific than nothing. What I have found makes the biggest difference is covering the wood to protect from rain and snow. If you do this you can store wood outside and give it long enough and it will season. Thanks again!🙏
Maybe not too deep but you need to push it in a little. The prongs are very robust on this one, no fear of damage as long as you push it in straight and pull directly out.
Certainly was. I will not use the guy again, and I reported him to the standards company and told them they might want to do more testing of his product.
If you’re buying fired wood, you’re wasting money, it’s cheaper to use any other type of heat.. wood is only cheaper to heat with if you have your own wood… now your waisting even more good money 💴 n a moisture meter 🤦♂️
You’re right. I have plenty of my own wood seasoning nicely, I just needed a bit to see me through the late winter / early spring. I don’t think wood is much more expensive than oil or gas heating, it’s just nice and cost to have a wood burner going in the winter.
I really like your videos, post them often.
All the firewood dealer's around here sell "seasoned" firewood. It's seasoned on the trip halfway around the beltway.
Green wood can be a major risk of a chimney fire which could spread to your house. I burnt wood that was not fully cured for the past two winters (I didn't have a choice) and found an awful creosote mess in my woodstove, stovepipe and chimney. I'm trying to get my firewood into a rotation where any newly delivered firewood gets put onto pallets outside to fully cure for a few months or more, and the wood that has sat outside form any amount of time gets moved into the woodshed to be ready to burn. A lot of moving it around, but better burn results and safer too. Great video!
Thanks for your comment. I have large piles of wood, but unless it’s dry, it’s not going anywhere near my Woodburner. There’s little point putting in all the effort to cut, split stack, move, stack again and move again only to have it burn in a lacklustre way.
When I burn wood, I want it to give off heat, and lots of it, given the effort to get it into my grate. If it’s not ready, I’m waiting until it is, even if that means buying in dry firewood, as much as it peeves me to pay for fuel when I have so much in my garden.
I’m planning to build a shelter to store the wood when dry. I will season it outdoors with a plastic sheeting cover, and once dry in the autumn, I’ll be putting them in the woodstore.
I see these log stores which open faced and cost about the same as a shed. Why not buy a shed.
South Mississippi here. The drought experienced during the 2023 summer really put my drying time in the fast lane. I have racks of both oak and pecan, all metering at 10% or less. Curious to note, the oak dried and seasoned quicker than the pecan. Not sure why, but I thought it would be just the opposite. Thanks for your post. Very informative.
Yes lots of people have no clue buyers and sellers about how dry the wood should be. Great explanation👍 Is that length of the log normal for you? Normal here is 16”
Thanks. Here in the UK most log burners are 5kW and pretty shallow, just for keeping the sitting room cost rather than heating the whole house, so a 10” log is pretty standard. Mine are a mixture depending on what the tree guys chopped up 🤭. I try to be more consistent when cutting as it helps with stacking. Whereabouts are you based?
@@Himoutdoors I’m in Wisconsin
@@outdoorsinthe608 looks like you have a similar climate to the UK…. It’s -2C here at the moment but it’s normally not this cold thanks to the jet stream. I’ve subscribed to your channel too! Have a Good Friday!
@@Himoutdoors it’s been really cold here this week! Awesome thank you👍👍
29%. Give it a year
Creosote problem is waaay over-dramatized.
If your stove is a fast burning high efficiency stove (that is it must have a fire grate) then the moisture doesn't matter. I used to burn freshly cut wood quite often and if the fire is already fiercely burning there's no problem in feeding it with even soaking wet firewood. You just have to use dry wood from time to time for really hot "cleaning" fire (aspen is very good for this "cleaning" burn) and clean the pipe somewhat more often.
It's a different story if your stove is a slow burning stove (sometimes called "pyrolysis" stove) - without the fire grate (so the fresh air can't "feed" the fire from below the wood). They are inefficient (in purely physical terms) and emit much more CO to the atmosphere but who cares if they keep you warm 2-3 longer than efficient grate-equipped stoves (with the same amount of wood). Yes you can add the wet wood if the stove is already hot but those stoves are known to clog up the pipes quite quickly so... just clean the chimney more often. You have to do it anyway even with the hottest of the stoves and driest of the firewoods.
Thanks for your comment. Good to hear these issues are overstated. I’ve certainly not worried about it. I only want to burn dry wood because burning wet wood seems like such a waste of effort, when half the energy in the log goes up the chimney as steam….
All that moving, chopping, stacking, moving, moving and finally burning….if it doesn’t yield a lot of heat quite frankly you may as well not have bothered!
Great video. How much did you pay for the firewood and what is the quantity?
I think it was £160 for 1.2m3. £80 after refund.
B.S. If you like devices, fine. Experience for those using firewood seriously means one learns to season. Here's what one does: Splits will check on ends. The logs split will be lighter than when green. Many wood species will grey over time seasoning. Banging two splits together will often "ring" like baseball bats. And, in the wood stove unseasoned logs will sizzle. The moisture meters are not accurate for firewood. They do break. JMNSHO from decades heating with self harvested firewood.
Thanks for your experience, really helpful. I agree about the timbre of the wood when you knock it together. It resonates. I’m a relatively newcomer to seasoning and burning wood so always happy to learn more tricks.
We have a 1 acre garden with plenty of trees which need work so always wood about to season and burn.
The moisture meter may not be accurate, but it is more scientific than nothing.
What I have found makes the biggest difference is covering the wood to protect from rain and snow. If you do this you can store wood outside and give it long enough and it will season.
Thanks again!🙏
They turn gray with age
That's not the worst hatchet I've ever seen,close
It’s actually a woodworking tool, gift of my father. 😂
No need to push the prongs in. You'll damage them.
Maybe not too deep but you need to push it in a little. The prongs are very robust on this one, no fear of damage as long as you push it in straight and pull directly out.
you have been ripped off my friend..
Certainly was.
I will not use the guy again, and I reported him to the standards company and told them they might want to do more testing of his product.
Its true. For thousands of.years nobody could burn fiirewood right until the moisture meter was invented.
Stupid title and stupid point.
If you’re buying fired wood, you’re wasting money, it’s cheaper to use any other type of heat.. wood is only cheaper to heat with if you have your own wood… now your waisting even more good money 💴 n a moisture meter 🤦♂️
You’re right. I have plenty of my own wood seasoning nicely, I just needed a bit to see me through the late winter / early spring. I don’t think wood is much more expensive than oil or gas heating, it’s just nice and cost to have a wood burner going in the winter.
Creosote is a big problem with unseasoned wood
Solo un gay userebbe così una scure!