These simple meters are trying to take the place of solenoid-type testers (like Knopp or Ideal Vol-Con). The key is that the solenoid-tester (or some of these) require actual power to be there to read it, whereas a meter can be fooled by 'ghost voltages'. Meters with a LoZ setting are not fooled by this, but you have to use that setting. The bottom line is that the result from a solenoid tester (or even a test light) is more reliable in certain circumstances because 'real' power has to be there to light it up.
Exactly, in Belgium, the Benning Duspol Analog (still has a solenoid) is popular, also the Fluke T series such as a T110. Ghost voltage can really set you off on the wrong foot and cost you a lot of time, these meters have two buttons with which you can load the circuit (and trip the 30mA RCD). Any two-pole voltage tester that doesn't have this function would be kind of useless to me. Another thing is that they fit better in socket outlets with child protection shutters (T110 has special caps for Schuko sockets) + you can hold them with one hand easily instead of holding a multimeter and then having to mess with two wires. So much more convenient and quicker. In residential installations you rarely care about the exact voltage. All you need to know is if there is power (not phantom) and a continuity function is also really useful.
It's unfortunate that LoZ is not a standard feature on multimeters. I have one of the best multimeters in the world (Brymen BM869s) but it doesn't have a low-impedance setting so I'm always questioning mains voltage readings. One of these days I gotta build a adapter that adds LoZ while maintaining the 1000V Cat4 rating
It's so you can't make a mistake on important readings. Take that as you may but also single feature tools are less expensive if you fry one or break it, etc. so you can send out a couple few with trucks or whatever...
DOC-What a couple others have eloquently said here is the correct answer to your question of why. These are specialized electrical safety testers, and because they are so much simpler, they are far more reliable because there are fewer ways they can fail. They also do a better job at detecting safe or unsafe installations because there are fewer ways to configure and use them wrong. They are not perfect because there are still ways users can use them wrong, but these are a great example of “the best part is no part”.
When I did electrical work for institutional buildings I would use the smallest Klein meter with no batteries to differentiate 120v circuits from 277v. Way smaller in the tool pouch than a larger multimeter.
In some cases you don't need a multimeter, just a good led based tester. The non contact testers are not very reliable and safe. On a multimeter you can select a wrong parameter and blow the fuse, and after that the meter is not safe to use. I have a benning analog duspol voltage tester for more than 20 years, no batteries needed, just some led indicators, and a vibrating solenoid for load, to eliminate ghost voltage. The tool is water resistant, and this is the most reliable way to check if voltage is present or not. Direct contact testing is the safest way. I only use a meter when I have to diagnose something. The oldest models from benning were using just a regular bulb and some resistors to test ground fault protection devices. No battery, no unnecessary buttons.. So this testers are going to be used, the new ones include continuity testing, phase rotation indicators and even lcd displays. The key is the ease of use.
One of the things I work on are warehouse type heaters. When I find myself on a tall ladder, trying to troubleshoot 24v vs 120v and mitigate my chance of falling, I don’t want to be fiddling with a bunch of settings. Also, if I drop something, I’m probably better off dropping a $40 Klein than something like a $500 Fluke 476FC.
For size and weight I’ve started using one of these pen style multimeters. They’re about the size of a voltage detector or a Widowmaker whichever one you wanna call it but it detects voltage, both AC and DC resistance capacitance diodes, and temperature I might be missing one. I love it.
I have the small battery op klein ac/DC tester. I carry that in my pocket for hotel maintenance so I can quickly diagnose if something has power or if batteries are actually dead in something. A lot more convenient than a full sized multi meter.
These simple meters have a place but I love the Fluke 101 for quick measurements and the Fluke 117 for real diagnostics. Both of those have served me well over the years.
I know some who preferred this style. It's for the simplicity. If all you need to test is continuity or voltage these are dead simple to use, you don't need to adjust the dials, just test and go. So for basic work they are more efficient, also they are more compact and fit in a tool belt easier and that mean less weight to carry around.
There's a perception in the UK at least that you have to use voltage indicators that don't do anything else for proving dead whilst going through safe isolation procedure. An auto on, works when the batteries are dead meter. They do have some advantages, like they're low impedance so less prone to spurious readings, but lack a lot of necessary features for me. Personally I work on a lot of solar and metering circuits so what I often care about is that there's no current. The solar circuits will always have a voltage and the metering ones will often (in the case if a CT) have no measurable voltage until you disconnect them at which point bad things can happen. Given I rely on my clamp meter for them, I use that for all my proving dead. But lots of people criticise that approach.
To be honest 99% of the time I use a multimeter it’s either voltage or continuity… but I still like having the other features. I can see this as a good option to throw in a car tool kit or something but the Fluke 101 is a better choice imo.
When proving dead for an isolation, most HSE rules dictate using test leads that have the most basic function required. This is to minimise the chance of failure which could occur with more complexity. DNO test leads used to be literally a lamp and leads. Prove, test, prove method.
Unfortunately.. A person goes and buys a pair of pliers and just like that they are an electrician…. Most electricians have no clue about torque specs much less diode testing….. I believe it’s super intimidating for most having all those setting and buttons…. Anything beyond ac/dc voltage and continuity large group of “electricians” are out…. I have had many tell me they cant possibly see the need for a Fluke 233 which is one of my most used meters… Also have the Fluke 3000fc with all the modules…. But it’s more than most need or require…. The easier the better for most…. And being honest when out on different job locations most won’t spend very much on tools anyways as some ppl look as if they raided grandma’s junk drawer for a screwdriver….. Free tip if a fluke user… when you are using one and you turn the backlight on…. It’s always shutting back off at the wrong time….. hold down the light button as you turn it on….. then turn the light on and it will stay on indefinitely until you power meter down….. Commercial/Industrial/telecom electrician for life…..👍
When I'm working on an electric guitar and want to check pickups for output all I need is something for resistance (Ohms). A small single-purpose meter would take up a lot less space in my toolbox and I don't really need more than that. The irony is they're often as big as a small full-function meter and cost more than one as well. $160 for Fluke Ohm-only meter. WTF?
Probably it is not relavant in this case, but once I spoke with a nuclear reactor mechanic. When they do maintanance close to the core, they can't bring back the tools what they took in with themself. And in those usecases they tend to use cheaper tools, what not that painfull to leave behind.
I have them one so I don't screw up my expensive meter and two I carry a cheap small "simple" multimeter in my work bag to figure out what might be going on with equipment I might be operating. A continuity test is great for checking fuses really fast. I can't see for shit and refuse to wear glasses regularly.
Cooking personality Alton Brown is famously against 'uni-taskers' in the kitchen but if you have to do a single task *a lot* , purpose-built uni-taskers are sometimes the *best* tool for the job -- if you need to peel a truckload of potatoes, you can bet you're finding the best potato peeler known to humanity, even if that's all it does. 'Simple meters' are good for 'simple tasks' that are repetitive or done so frequently that it's worth it -- doing a once-over test on every receptacle on a job before inspection is going to be faster with a "shove the leads in, read the number/see the lights, pop and reset GFCI" than with a full size meter -- in part because, yeah, it's only making one reading, and it's entire job is to get that one reading right and make it easy to do. It's the whole principle of 'if you can do 90% of your tasks with 50% of your tools... then 90% of the time you only need 50% of your tools' -- leave the other half in the van/garage/whatever until you need it. One of these little meters might live in your 'take to every job' bag while the fancy, expensive Fluke meter lives in it's own zip-case to keep it safe.
For the majority of house wiring work, all you really care about it the presents or absence of power... like your old original test light would indicate. One of those 'chicken stick' voltage detectors like the Fluke is nice and can save time, but not necessary. Something like the Klein ET310 which I think you did a video on is nice for ID'ing unknown circuit breakers without repeatedly shutting down the entire house. Meters will measure resistance, continuity, Voltage DC, Voltage AC, millivolts both AC & DC, low amperage both DC & AC, test diodes capacitance etc etc... stuff one probably shouldn't mess with unless already up to speed. Clamp meters are tailored for measuring higher amperages... probably mostly used around the house by HVAC guys.
You keep running into them, and you won't be satisfied until you own at least one of each? As all the other comments say, if you only need to check one thing, something which is idiot-proof is easier to use and more reliable, even if you're not an idiot.
Less = Less. And Less = Good. Less weight and less size means less annoyance having to carry one. Less complexity reduces opportunity for human error. For example with the basic voltage testers you can't accidentally select DC voltage when testing AC and believe you have 0 voltage. Some don't need batteries, which also eliminates an opportunity for human error. Less resistance (Low Z) eliminates issues with phantom voltage readings. Less length on the leads means less leads to wrap up or deal with tangles. I could go on. Less cost is also maybe a factor, maybe if you're supplying them to employees who will break them. But I have multiple multimeters for work and prefer to use a basic voltage tester if all I need to do is test something is dead, so don't view cost as the primary value of basic testers.
Dumbdifying everything seems to be the path of our society. With AI rolling in, we’re on the path toward humans not needing to know anything. Maybe these shortcut tools are OK when used by experienced people for specific, repetitive tasks - but I sure would like everyone to start out mastering a multimeter!
These simple meters are trying to take the place of solenoid-type testers (like Knopp or Ideal Vol-Con). The key is that the solenoid-tester (or some of these) require actual power to be there to read it, whereas a meter can be fooled by 'ghost voltages'. Meters with a LoZ setting are not fooled by this, but you have to use that setting. The bottom line is that the result from a solenoid tester (or even a test light) is more reliable in certain circumstances because 'real' power has to be there to light it up.
Exactly, in Belgium, the Benning Duspol Analog (still has a solenoid) is popular, also the Fluke T series such as a T110. Ghost voltage can really set you off on the wrong foot and cost you a lot of time, these meters have two buttons with which you can load the circuit (and trip the 30mA RCD). Any two-pole voltage tester that doesn't have this function would be kind of useless to me.
Another thing is that they fit better in socket outlets with child protection shutters (T110 has special caps for Schuko sockets) + you can hold them with one hand easily instead of holding a multimeter and then having to mess with two wires. So much more convenient and quicker. In residential installations you rarely care about the exact voltage. All you need to know is if there is power (not phantom) and a continuity function is also really useful.
It's unfortunate that LoZ is not a standard feature on multimeters. I have one of the best multimeters in the world (Brymen BM869s) but it doesn't have a low-impedance setting so I'm always questioning mains voltage readings. One of these days I gotta build a adapter that adds LoZ while maintaining the 1000V Cat4 rating
It's so you can't make a mistake on important readings. Take that as you may but also single feature tools are less expensive if you fry one or break it, etc. so you can send out a couple few with trucks or whatever...
DOC-What a couple others have eloquently said here is the correct answer to your question of why. These are specialized electrical safety testers, and because they are so much simpler, they are far more reliable because there are fewer ways they can fail. They also do a better job at detecting safe or unsafe installations because there are fewer ways to configure and use them wrong.
They are not perfect because there are still ways users can use them wrong, but these are a great example of “the best part is no part”.
When I did electrical work for institutional buildings I would use the smallest Klein meter with no batteries to differentiate 120v circuits from 277v. Way smaller in the tool pouch than a larger multimeter.
In some cases you don't need a multimeter, just a good led based tester. The non contact testers are not very reliable and safe. On a multimeter you can select a wrong parameter and blow the fuse, and after that the meter is not safe to use. I have a benning analog duspol voltage tester for more than 20 years, no batteries needed, just some led indicators, and a vibrating solenoid for load, to eliminate ghost voltage. The tool is water resistant, and this is the most reliable way to check if voltage is present or not. Direct contact testing is the safest way. I only use a meter when I have to diagnose something. The oldest models from benning were using just a regular bulb and some resistors to test ground fault protection devices. No battery, no unnecessary buttons.. So this testers are going to be used, the new ones include continuity testing, phase rotation indicators and even lcd displays. The key is the ease of use.
One of the things I work on are warehouse type heaters. When I find myself on a tall ladder, trying to troubleshoot 24v vs 120v and mitigate my chance of falling, I don’t want to be fiddling with a bunch of settings. Also, if I drop something, I’m probably better off dropping a $40 Klein than something like a $500 Fluke 476FC.
These are preferable when you need to do one thing over and over. Fewer mistakes to make, or features to break!
For size and weight I’ve started using one of these pen style multimeters. They’re about the size of a voltage detector or a Widowmaker whichever one you wanna call it but it detects voltage, both AC and DC resistance capacitance diodes, and temperature I might be missing one. I love it.
I'll keep my ancient Fluke 23 Series II multimeter, thanks. Bought it for a song at a local pawn shop.
I have the small battery op klein ac/DC tester. I carry that in my pocket for hotel maintenance so I can quickly diagnose if something has power or if batteries are actually dead in something. A lot more convenient than a full sized multi meter.
These simple meters have a place but I love the Fluke 101 for quick measurements and the Fluke 117 for real diagnostics. Both of those have served me well over the years.
101...a nice pocket DMM for simple things at a very reasonable cost. Perfect for the HS/CC tech students.
I know some who preferred this style. It's for the simplicity. If all you need to test is continuity or voltage these are dead simple to use, you don't need to adjust the dials, just test and go. So for basic work they are more efficient, also they are more compact and fit in a tool belt easier and that mean less weight to carry around.
There's a perception in the UK at least that you have to use voltage indicators that don't do anything else for proving dead whilst going through safe isolation procedure.
An auto on, works when the batteries are dead meter. They do have some advantages, like they're low impedance so less prone to spurious readings, but lack a lot of necessary features for me.
Personally I work on a lot of solar and metering circuits so what I often care about is that there's no current. The solar circuits will always have a voltage and the metering ones will often (in the case if a CT) have no measurable voltage until you disconnect them at which point bad things can happen. Given I rely on my clamp meter for them, I use that for all my proving dead. But lots of people criticise that approach.
To be honest 99% of the time I use a multimeter it’s either voltage or continuity… but I still like having the other features. I can see this as a good option to throw in a car tool kit or something but the Fluke 101 is a better choice imo.
When proving dead for an isolation, most HSE rules dictate using test leads that have the most basic function required. This is to minimise the chance of failure which could occur with more complexity. DNO test leads used to be literally a lamp and leads. Prove, test, prove method.
Can you expand the HSE acronym, and give an example of a USA one?
@PetesGuide I did reply to you message, but it got taken down.
@@aaaatttt101 Well that’s interesting! Did your post include a URL? That would explain it; most channels filter those out automatically.
@@PetesGuide Most likely the reason then. Info. is easily found on a quick search
@@aaaatttt101 Just break the URL by replacing "." with "(dot)" and you'll get through the spam filter
Unfortunately.. A person goes and buys a pair of pliers and just like that they are an electrician…. Most electricians have no clue about torque specs much less diode testing….. I believe it’s super intimidating for most having all those setting and buttons…. Anything beyond ac/dc voltage and continuity large group of “electricians” are out…. I have had many tell me they cant possibly see the need for a Fluke 233 which is one of my most used meters… Also have the Fluke 3000fc with all the modules…. But it’s more than most need or require…. The easier the better for most…. And being honest when out on different job locations most won’t spend very much on tools anyways as some ppl look as if they raided grandma’s junk drawer for a screwdriver…..
Free tip if a fluke user… when you are using one and you turn the backlight on…. It’s always shutting back off at the wrong time….. hold down the light button as you turn it on….. then turn the light on and it will stay on indefinitely until you power meter down…..
Commercial/Industrial/telecom electrician for life…..👍
When I'm working on an electric guitar and want to check pickups for output all I need is something for resistance (Ohms). A small single-purpose meter would take up a lot less space in my toolbox and I don't really need more than that. The irony is they're often as big as a small full-function meter and cost more than one as well. $160 for Fluke Ohm-only meter. WTF?
Probably it is not relavant in this case, but once I spoke with a nuclear reactor mechanic. When they do maintanance close to the core, they can't bring back the tools what they took in with themself. And in those usecases they tend to use cheaper tools, what not that painfull to leave behind.
I have them one so I don't screw up my expensive meter and two I carry a cheap small "simple" multimeter in my work bag to figure out what might be going on with equipment I might be operating. A continuity test is great for checking fuses really fast. I can't see for shit and refuse to wear glasses regularly.
I can totally relate to everything you said. This blurry vision is a pain in the ass. Glasses on\off constantly
Voltage doesn't penetrate skin until 48 volts hence the red "danger zone"
35v and lower when your sweaty.
Cooking personality Alton Brown is famously against 'uni-taskers' in the kitchen but if you have to do a single task *a lot* , purpose-built uni-taskers are sometimes the *best* tool for the job -- if you need to peel a truckload of potatoes, you can bet you're finding the best potato peeler known to humanity, even if that's all it does. 'Simple meters' are good for 'simple tasks' that are repetitive or done so frequently that it's worth it -- doing a once-over test on every receptacle on a job before inspection is going to be faster with a "shove the leads in, read the number/see the lights, pop and reset GFCI" than with a full size meter -- in part because, yeah, it's only making one reading, and it's entire job is to get that one reading right and make it easy to do.
It's the whole principle of 'if you can do 90% of your tasks with 50% of your tools... then 90% of the time you only need 50% of your tools' -- leave the other half in the van/garage/whatever until you need it. One of these little meters might live in your 'take to every job' bag while the fancy, expensive Fluke meter lives in it's own zip-case to keep it safe.
Very soon doc is going to have more tools than all big box stores in his town
Still have my ….what we referred to as a Wiggy from when first got in the trade…. A few weeks ago…
Oleds are bad for segment displays due to burn-in. The brightness might be good, but the longevity is limited.
OK, but OLED DMM's seem to be rare. They are usually LCD, with perhaps an LED (not OLED) backlight
@@michaellee6868 he mentioned in the video that he thought it was an OLED.
For the majority of house wiring work, all you really care about it the presents or absence of power... like your old original test light would indicate.
One of those 'chicken stick' voltage detectors like the Fluke is nice and can save time, but not necessary.
Something like the Klein ET310 which I think you did a video on is nice for ID'ing unknown circuit breakers without repeatedly shutting down the entire house.
Meters will measure resistance, continuity, Voltage DC, Voltage AC, millivolts both AC & DC, low amperage both DC & AC, test diodes capacitance etc etc... stuff one probably shouldn't mess with unless already up to speed.
Clamp meters are tailored for measuring higher amperages... probably mostly used around the house by HVAC guys.
You keep running into them, and you won't be satisfied until you own at least one of each? As all the other comments say, if you only need to check one thing, something which is idiot-proof is easier to use and more reliable, even if you're not an idiot.
Less = Less. And Less = Good.
Less weight and less size means less annoyance having to carry one. Less complexity reduces opportunity for human error. For example with the basic voltage testers you can't accidentally select DC voltage when testing AC and believe you have 0 voltage. Some don't need batteries, which also eliminates an opportunity for human error. Less resistance (Low Z) eliminates issues with phantom voltage readings. Less length on the leads means less leads to wrap up or deal with tangles. I could go on.
Less cost is also maybe a factor, maybe if you're supplying them to employees who will break them. But I have multiple multimeters for work and prefer to use a basic voltage tester if all I need to do is test something is dead, so don't view cost as the primary value of basic testers.
Dumbdifying everything seems to be the path of our society. With AI rolling in, we’re on the path toward humans not needing to know anything. Maybe these shortcut tools are OK when used by experienced people for specific, repetitive tasks - but I sure would like everyone to start out mastering a multimeter!
Yep. Very unfortunate.
Id rather get a Fluke
@@alexdrockhound9497 Indeed - I use Fluke as well when I can.